History of Monterey County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biiographical sketches of prominent citizens, Part 23

Author: Elliott & Moore
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : Elliott & Moore, Publishers
Number of Pages: 304


USA > California > Monterey County > History of Monterey County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biiographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 23


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In the hills east of town there is abundance of game, such as rabbits and hares, and, in season, the sportsman will find, also, plenty of quail and doves. The sloughs and lakes in the vicinity abound with water-fowl in winter, the duck list embracing the prized eanvas-back and mallard, and also teal, widgeon and other varieties. English snipe are not rare, either, and, though geese are not as plentiful as when this valley was more sparsely populated, the autumnal haze that doats over shorn fields is still pierced by many an anserine phalanx. The sport of hunting is here, in short, within the reach of all who have the leisure and energy to enjoy it. For fishing the favorite resort is Moss Landing, where people from Salinas, too, and from other parts of the valley frequently, during the summer months, spend a day picnicing and surf-fish- ing. It may be well to note, in this connection, that in addi- tion to the catfish and other varieties previously deposited in the Espinosa lake, near town, that beautiful sheet of water was recently stocked with land-locked salmon.


THE WATER-COURSES,


The water power, taken into consideration with the pro- ducts of this section, is well deserving of the attention of capi- talists. The Tembladera slough, connected as it is with the principal lagoons of the valley, and having, within three miles of tbe town, a natural reservoir-the Espinosa lake-one mile or more in length by a quarter or half a mile in width, with ten to fifty feet of water, is a continuously flowing stream fifty to one hundred feet in width, with a depth of five to ten feet and a fall of perhaps twenty feet, producing a current of about four miles an hour. This stream approaches within two hundred feet of the town, emptying, about a mile to the west into the Salinas river, and could be profitably utilized for woolen mills, beet sugar factories, and paper-making. Devoted to these industries it would be a veritable stream of Pactolus,


for the county produces abundance of wool, beets suitable for sugar-making are known to do well here, and straw is yearly burned in vast quantities. The day cannot be far distant in the future when these raw materials will be used in the man- ner suggested.


This water-course, the Tembladera, has for some time past been favorably looked upon by the steamship firm of Goodall, Perkins & Co. in connection with the construction of a canal to some point near Salinas. A topographical survey has already been made, together with estimates on the cost of dredging the stream where needed and of removing the tules, of which it has a dense growth, the object of the steamship company being to compete with the Southern Pacific Railroad Company for the upper valley grain, which, on account of distance from Moss Landing, has at present only an outlet by rail. It is believed that if the canal be not constructed a narrow-gauge will be, from the Landing up the valley, through this place, as the producers from Salinas City south are loud and earuest in their invitation to the steamship company to relieve them from the necessity of strengthening and supporting a monopoly.


RAILROAD AND WATER COMMUNICATION.


'The prospects of Castroville, as, indeed, of all the towns of the Salinas valley, have been materially retarded by local jeal- ousies and contending influences, both publie and private; but as these subside, or beeome arranged, tbe reasoning becomes justifiable tbat, since coast towns in the United States, and throughout the universe, in fact, have generally become of greater eommereial importance tban those inland, the future of a town located only two and a half miles from a good shipping point (Moss Landing); at th point of junction of the railroads from Soledad and the port of Monterey to San Francisco ; within easy approach of a tbird port, Santa Cruz, over a nar- row gauge road only ten miles distant, which, although badly damaged during the winter, will soon be again in repair, with the possibility of exchange for a broad-gauge road ; and backed by one of the most extensive and fertile agricultural dis- tricts in the State, eannot be anything but a bright one.


A few distances (by rail) are here given, in miles: From Castroville to San Franeiseo, 109.7 ; to San Jose, 59.7; to Gilroy, 29.4; to Pajaro, 10.3; to Monterey, 15.4 ; to Salinas, 7.9; to Cbualar, 18.8; to Gonzales, 24.8; to Soledad, 33.2. Fares: From Castroville to Monterey, Salinas or Watsonville (Pajaro), 75 eents ; to San Franeiseo, $4.75 with a slight reduetion if a round trip ticket be taken. Passengers from San Franciseo to this place, with hand-baggage only, usually buy tickets for Monterey, price $3.50, and leaving the ears at Castroville, save $1.25. The fare to Monterey is lower than to Castroville, from San Francisco, owing to steamship competition and to the fact that the railroad company desires to encourage travel in the direction of its sea-side caravansary, the Hotel del Monte.


114


MOSS LANDING AS A SHIPPING POINT.


PLACES OF RESORT.


The sandy beach at Moss Landing is a good one for bathers and affords a splendid drive for many miles around the Bay of Monterey, so that the towns-people need not wander far from home for sea-side enjoyments; and on the whole, such are the advantages of soil, climate and shipping facilities which Castro- ville possesses, that her citizens have only to remember that


" Progress only lays the dummies, Not the live men, on the shelf, "


To grasp the rich possibilities of this favored region.


Although Castroville, owing to the humidity of its surround- ings, can do with less rain than other portions of the Salinas valley, now and then there is partial failure of crops, and business of all kinds is consequently affected. The idea is gaining ground that there must be a thorough change in the farming system; irrigation must be in- troduced to counteract the chances and effects of dry seasons. In this district this can be done without a very great expenditure, owing to the before-mentioned supply of water, and at the other end of the valley a scheme has for some time been under consideration for the irrigation of an area amounting to about twenty thousand acres. The visit of Mr. J. D. Schuyler, Assistant State Engineer, to this county, in connection with the irrigation question, will, it is believed, be fruitful of good results.


It is also very desirable that ranebes be more gener- ally subdivided into farms, owned by those who till them, and that there should be a greater diversity of agri- culture and increased attention in regard to preserv- ing the quality of land. The present methods must yield to better, under which the soil, instead of being im- poverished and drained of the same ingredients year after year, will be rested and benefited by the alternation of grains and other crops. To the system of tenancy now prevailing are due, in great part, the unfavorable conditions and undoubtedly retrogressive effects to which reference is made, nor can lasting improvement come to the community until this system of yearly leascholds is modified or abolished.


Moss Landing.


A FEW words now concerning Moss Landing, which is one of the most important shipping points in the county. This land- ing was established in 1866 by Captain Charles Moss, now res- ident in San Francisco, but is now owned by the Pacific Coast Steamsbip Company. Situated at the mouth of the Salinas river and Moro Cojo and Elkhorn sloughs, or tidal rivers, it stands partly on the wide-extended city lands of Monterey-the


steamship company deriving its title from Mr. David Jacks, who purchased those lands some years ago-and partly on the Castro Grant, and is distant about two and a half miles from Castroville, with which it is connected by a good road. The landing proper runs out about a hundred yards into the Bay of Monterey and is approachable at all times except during the rarely occurring tempestuous weather. The several large warehouses are capable of containing ahout 15,000 tons of grain, and the general air of business about the place gives it quite an important appearance. In connection with it are the Gibson Landing on the Salinas river and the Watsonville Land- ing on the Elkhorn slough, adding about 6,000 tons to the storage capacity. The stern-wheel steamer Vaquero, drawing about three feet of water, and of one hundred tons reg- ister, was brought from the San Francisco and Petaluma lina to run between Moss and the other landings, and for a long time served as a feeder of the grain steamers running to San Francisco. Grain at the Watsonville Landing, for example, was loaded in sacks upon eight cars of a capacity of ten tons eacb, and these were run upon two lines of track laid upon the steamer's deck and terminating in a turn-table, and discharged, upon the boat's arrival at the Moss Landing wharf, directly into the holds of the ocean steamers. This mode has, however, recently been discontinued, and instead of the steamer Vaquero, lighters are now employed. The change is an economical one, while answering every requirement. A steamer makes two regular trips a week between San Francisco and Moss Land- ing, but sometimes extra steamers are put on for the accommo- dation of shippers. The quantity of grain, potatoes and beans handled at Moss Landing each year must, we think. exceed 10,000 tons. Mr. S. N. Laughlin is the resident agent at Moss Landing and Mr. M. A. Hudson the agent at the Watsonville Landing.


Moss Landing has always been well patronized by the farmers of the valley, many of whom live at a long distance, and in the very heart of the country tributary to the Southern Pacific Railroad. The rate of freight on grain for the season of 1880-81, including wharfage, loading and weighing, is $3.25 per ton, with 50 cents additional per ton when stored, or not to exceed $3.75 for storage for the season, weigh- ing, wharfage, loading and freight. When a steamer has a load for delivery at any warehouse in San Francisco, or at Oakland wharf, or alongside of ship, it is so delivered without extra charge, provided there is sufficient depth of water and good dispatch can be had. The grain freight rate by the Southern Pacific Railroad to San Francisco is $3.25; storage for the season here, $1.25; if weighed out, 25 cents additional; total freight and storage, $4.75 per ton, against $3.75 at Moss Landing. The freight by rail to Oakland wharf, exclusive of storage, is $3.50, and to San Jose, also exclusive of storage, $2,50 per ton, the rates to San Francisco, Oakland wharf and San Jose being for car-load lots or balances of lots.


115


SANTA RITA AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY.


It may be interesting to know that the pioneer schooner at Moss Landing was the Arizona. In April, 1866, in order to prove to doubters that they could transport grain, Messrs. Moss & Beadle sent A. P. Knowles, W. B. Post, Gus Coffin, James Gallier and Cato Vierra with a lighter up the river to bring down one hundred tons of grain. They brought it down in safety, but the water being waist-decp, it was difficult to unload it, the men having to wade through it with the sacks on their shoulders. For some time after, until the wharf was extended, surf-boats were employed to load the steamers.


It has been said in reference to Moss Landing, that it could, at less than a tithe of the cost of Wilmington harbor, be turned into a dock harbor. It will probably be the terminus of a narrow-gauge railroad running up the valley to compete with the Southern Pacific. The scheme of a canal up the Tembla- dera slough from this landing is also within the probabilitics in case the building of a railroad is not undertaken, and the extension through Castroville, and the Salinas valley, of the South Pacific Coast Railroad cannot be long delayed. The era of railroad building in this valley has in truth only commenced.


Village of Santa Rita.


DESCIPTION


OF DR. S. M. ARCHER'S PRIVATE HOSPITAL, GROUNDS, AND RESIDENCE.


ABOUT three miles nortbward from Salinas City, in this county, ensconced in the bosom of a little hollow of undulating prairie or plain of unsurpassed fertility and natural beauty, lies the hamlet of Santa Rita. It is a villa of some two hundred or so inbabitants, mostly of Spanish descent, who live from ycar to year in that dreamy, idle, and ideal existence so characteristic of the race. It is a platted town (so the county records show). and was laid out and dedicated to public use by Don J. M. Soto, the owner of the grand Rancho Santa Rita, in the year 1867. Originally, it was intended to be the chief town of the Salinas valley-lovely in location, and healthful in its atmosphere and surroundings. But the cupidity of man, the avarice of capital, and the consequent march of events-partic- ularly of railroad extension of the line of the Southern Pacific - decrced that Salinas City should be the town of the valley, where " a little empire should hold its sway." And so, while the latter has grown and expanded into a pretty town of some four thousand inhabitants, with fine hotels, paved streets, asphaltum walks, large stores, printing offices, fine residences and cozy cottages, embowered among trees, and shrubs, and flowers-the evidences of opulence, taste and contentment-the hamlet of Santa Rita still stands, as of yore, untarnished in reputation, unimproved by the hand of time, honored still in its little local memorics, and now mainly interesting in the history of that which I now purpose to give.


In the year 1869, just near the summit of a beautiful swell of upland, and almost in the heart of Santa Rita, Dr. S. M. Archer, a native of " Old Virginia," erected a neat, yet unpre- tending residence for himself and family. Besides the acre- tract of the home lot, he was possessed of two other small lots, which, together with subsequent purchases, now constitute the residence and " hospital grounds."


The views taken by the artist are as faithful to life as art can scemingly make naturc, and represent to the reader a scene of loveliness, taste and comfort not often witnessed, and particularly in the surroundings of an establishment dedicated in a great measure to public use.


The largess of the wealthy, the benevolence of the kind- hcarted, have often times contributed to the erection of fine edifices in our large cities and towns, or in some scquestered spot, for the humanitarian care of the sick, destitute and unfor- tunate. They stand and deserve to stand as bright exemplars of true Christian worth, and that " charity toward all," which Christ himself always taught.


It is not, however, a common occurrence for a single indi- vidual, honored among those with whom he lives, yet unhcr- alded to fame, to voluntarily bestow his time and money in the laying out and cultivation of beautiful grounds, and the erec- tion of good, substantial buildings-well ventilated and well furnished-for the comforts and wants of the indigent and the invalid, who may chance to come to grief in their journey through, or loiterings in, a connnunity.


THE COUNTY HOSPITAL.


But such is the fact in this instance. The hospital proper, con- sists of thirty rooms, twenty-four separate Iceping apartments, one large ward of twelve beds, a dining-room-table d'hote, a kitchen with every imaginary convenience, and a most excellent cook to superintend it, a neat parlor for the reception and enter- tainment of guests and visitors, and a large, comfortable, yea, cozy reading-room, which is ever furnished with the newspa- pers and leading magazines of the day. Verandas run around the house, and upon them, at either story, pots of flowers and shrubs exhale their sweetness on the air. The other buildings, five in number, are well provided, cared for, and appropriated to the treatment of special diseases, as neces- sity may require.


The building devoted to female use consists of ten sleeping apartments, all as well furnished as any good hotel. They arc far better than any usually furnished hospital patients, even in a purely private hospital, where heavy charges are made for the benefits conferred. A large and comfortably furnished parlor, with a good fire-placc, walls adorned with pictures and paintings, also forms a part of its accommodations. It faces upon a broad porch, which overlooks a nice plot of ground laid off in walks and intersticed with trees, shrubs, vines, and


116


THE COUNTY HOSPITAL AND MANAGEMENT.


bowers, trellised with flowers in their time, free access to which is the privilege of all. A veranda also runs in front, facing the street, where those who desire may watch the movements of the outside world.


Surrounding the hospital grouuds and lining the walk which wander hither aud yon through them are trees of lusty growth and pretty verdure -- the Australian gum, the Monterey cypress, the palm, the pepper, aud the acacia. Mounds of rocks, covered with Mother Earth and green sward; and in their time the butter-cup, the violet, and the daisy, delight the eye of the beholder. A neat structure in the rear of the grounds proper, is furnished with hot and cold water, and one there may enjoy almost the luxury of a Hammam bath. Much of the ground in the interval spaces of trees and shrubs is constantly utilized in the growing of vegetables of every kind, such as spinach, cauliflower, sweet-corn, beans, peas, rad- ishes, lettuce, and anything and everything, in fact, that will grow, is grown and dispensed with a prudent, even lavish hand, to the unfortunates of this abode. More than this, the outside lots abound with ducks, the coops with fowl, while the stables have numerous dove-cots filled with pigeons and doves, so tame that they come at eall and feed ont of the hand.


No necessity, no eomfort, no delicacy that can be had to suit the ever-changing appetite and whim of the sick or convales- cent, but that is furnished if the wish be suggested. Often- times, in these past years, wheu the writer of this has been stopping as a guest at the pleasant and hospitable home of the subject of this sketch, he has, at morn and eve, walked through these hospital grounds, conversed with the patients as they reclined in chairs, or on benches, or strolled along the walks therein, and felt how fortunate it was to unfortunate humanity to have such an opportunity to obtain relief, to be harbored as if a friend, and if, alas! King Death should come, then to be interred as a Christian, under the solemn rites and ritual of the Christian church.


Pardon the digression; but while memory lives, the writer will never forget one time when a poor, sick stranger came to the hospital, only to linger a little while, and then to die. Death came one bright and beautiful Sunday morning. No one in the hospital was able to assist in digging the grave, nor eould, just at that time, any one be found to do the work save one-a Charlie Thompson. So on that beautiful morn in spring, Dr. Archer, Thompson and ourself dug the grave, formed the funeral cortege, and in silence and with a prayer read from the Ritual, consigned " dust to dust." Ah! well was it ordained by God that Sunday should be a day of rest. There is on that day a sense of holy repose, of holy duty, that fills the brain and swells the heart with pure emotions, and the innate religion of the soul (and is there not such ?) springs up within us, and we feel happy under the influence of its benign and hallowed ealm. So felt we three that blessed day, and we can but think and say with the poct-


"Sweet day, so pure, so calm, so bright, The bridal of the Earth and Sky."


God bless that unfortunate as he may many another, and all at last, through " weal or woe " secure a " peaceful rest."


As we have said, although a private hospital, the county authorities have to a great extent forced it into a public char- acter, and so for the past six years it has been a "Welcome Home" to rich and poor alike, whether recompensed by private or public funds, or not at all. Within that time there have been within its walls, more than one thousand persons as patients, and only nineteen of that great number have gone from its confines


". - To that bourne whence no traveler returns."


To show that the statements above made are not exagger- ated, I close the account of the Hospital by quoting that por- tion of the Grand Jury Report of Monterey county relating to this institution.


GRAND JURY REPORT ON HOSPITAL.


Following is the report of the Grand Jury for the December (and last) term of the County Court :-


To THE HON. WM. H. WEBB, COUNTY JUDGE-Sir : We, the Grand Jury, impaneled at the December term of said Court, A. D. 1879, hereby present the following report of our proceedings :


We have examined carefully the condition of the County Hospital and are compelled to report most favorably of that iustitution. The patients are well housed and well fed ; far better than is usual in such establishments. The bedding is - cleau and ample, and the sanitary condition surrounding the patients could not, in our opinion, be improved. In short, the inmates of the county hospital have every comfort afforded them that could possibly be expected. They express them- selves unanimously and unreservedly as satisfied, stating that they have every reason to be pleased with their condition. They speak in glowing terms of the kindness and attention bestowed upon them by the county physician, Dr. S. M. Archer, none but the best feeling being expressed by the unfortunate inmates of this institution. The Doctor is in earnest about his labors, and devotes the greater portion of his time and energy to securing the happiness and comfort of those committed to his care. Having examined all the inmates of the hospital, as to their physical condition, we found them, without exception, suffering from disease to such an extent as to disable them from making their own support. There is a separate house, just completed, which is devoted to the exclusive use of feluale patients. This department has ample grounds, and the house is thoroughly adapted to the purpose for which it is used, being supplied with every convenience necessary to the comfort of its inmates. Altogether we pronounee the performance of Dr. Archer to be the work of real charity, entirely suited to its


F. PUBLIC LOFT


SANTA ANITA RANCH RESIDENCE OF J. BOLADO, 3 MILE


LES EAST OF TRES-PINOS, SAN BENITO CO. CAL.


117


THE COUNTY HOSPITAL AND MANAGEMENT.


objects, and characteristic of the kind-heartedness of the man. Believing it would be a difficult matter to find in the State elsewhere a similar institution of cqual merit, we give to Dr. Archer and his hospital our unqualified indorsement and hearty approval.


Grand Jury impaneled as follows : H, Friedlander, (foreman), J. S. Nanec, W. M. French, J. M. Smith, Heury Bardin, W. H. Blinn, E. L. Logwood, John James, C. M. Grury, Jesse Wil- hoit, J. W. Finch, C. Carlton, John Hunter, A. P. Hulsc, A. L. Meck, J. B. Sterling, G. W. Theuerkauf, Milton Withers aud Marcus Bundeson.


H. FRIEDLANDER, Foreman.


Another view the artist gives is that of the residence of Dr. S. M. Archer, and what shall be said of it? The scene is present to the eye of the reader, and yet actual observation would make it more interesting. The house, a building of small pretensions, as to exterior architecture is uniquely built, inclosed with trellised work, and embowered with vines of flow- ering growth and shaded with a luxuriant foliage of trees.


This, however is only the outward indication of the simplic- ity and comfort within. At this little "snug," the merchant, divine, lawyer, the humblest citizen or stranger, the tiller of the soil, any one (so he acts the gentleman), ever rceeives gen- erous hospitality. The house, the stables, whatever is in them or in the extensive gardens around, whether of horse-flesh, car- riage, fruit, vegetable, or flower, is at the command of the vis- itor-much more, the warm hospitality of himself and family.


Pride and zeal in the cultivation of a garden, luxuriant with trees and flowering shrubs, all planted and set out with a seem- ingly reckless hand, viewed in the light of the studied art of the horticulturist or gardener, astonishes your gaze. At once you are in a little labyrinth of walks, and fountains, and flow- ers, of palm, blooming cypress, flowering pinc, aeacia, pampas and geranium, running riot ; and covered with the grape, woodbine, morning glory, and trained boneysuckle, an clegant latticed arbor some fity feet in length by twenty fect in width, in which are chairs and benches placed for a quiet tete-a-tete of friends, or, perchance, the more earnest conversation of lovers. The children, too, come and go, swing, and play their little games as smilingly as innocence can make pleasure.


A little, circular, turreted, mosque-like arbor, in which is a row of rustic scats, eonneets with the main arbor. In the cen- ter is a pyramidic column of pots of flowers, and the aroma of the sweet-scented gcranium, roses and other flowering vines which stand within and completely interlace its lattice-work from the ground to turret-spire, steals away onc's senses, makes one for- get the world and its troubles, and carries one away into a vista of imaginary joy and pleasure, now actual, but dream- ingly lasting forever.




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