USA > California > Monterey County > History of Monterey County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biiographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 7
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The Government of the United States, in encouraging and facilitating cmigration to Oregon is, in fact, helping to people California. It is like the British Government sending settlers to Canada. The emigrants are well aware of the vast superi- ority of California, both in soil and climate, and I may add. facility of access. Every ycar shorter and better routes are being discovered, and this year the great desideratum of a good and practical road for wheel carriages has been found. Fifty- three wagons, with that number of families, have arrived safely, and more than a month earlier than any previous company. The American Government encourages emigration to Oregon by giving gratuitously some five or six hundred acres of land to each family of actual settlers. California, too, gives lands, not by acres, but by leagues, andl has some thousands of leagnes more to give to anybody who will ocenpy them. Never in any instance has less than one league been given to any individual, and the wide world from which to select from all the unocen- pied lands in the territory. While Col. Almonte, the Mexican Minister to Washington, is publishing his proclamations in the American newspapers forbidding people to emigrate to Cali- fornia, and telling them that no lands will be given them, the actual Government here is doing just the contrary. In fact they care about as much for the Government of Mexico as for that of Japan.
ESTIMATED POPULATION.
It has been usual to estimate the population of Upper Culi- fornia at five thousand persons of Spanish descent, and twenty
thousand Indians. This estimate may have been near the truth twenty years ago. At present the population may be stated in round numbers at seven thousand Spaniards, ten thousand civilized, or rather domesticated Indians. To this may be added about seven hundred Americans, one hundred English, Irish and Scotch, and about one hundred French, Germans and Italians.
Within the territorial limits of Upper California, taking the parallel of 42° for 'the northern, and the Colorado river for the south-eastern boundary, are an immense number of wild, naked, brute Indians. The number, of course, can only be con- jectured. They probably exceed a million, and may perhaps amount to double that number.
MUNIFICENT BARONIES.
The far-famed missions of California no longer exist. They have nearly all been broken up, and the lands apportioned ont into farms. They were certainly munificent ecclesiastical bar- onics, and although their existence was quite incompatible with the general prosperity of the country, it seems almost a pity to see their downfall. The immense piles of buildings and beau- tiful vineyards and orchards are all that remain, with the exception of two in the southern part of the territory, which still retain a small remnant of their former prosperity.
EARLY IMPRESSIONS OF CLIMATE.
The climate of California is remarkably different from that of the United States. The great distinguishing difference is its regularity and uniformity. From May to October the wind is invariably from the north-west, and during this time it never rains, and the sky is brilliantly clear and serene. The weather luring this time is temperate, and rarely oppressively warm. The nights are always agreeably cool, and many of the inhab- itants sleep in the open air the whole year round. From October to May the south-cast wind frequently blows, and is always accompanied by rain. Snow never falls excepting in the mountains, Frost is rare except in December or January. A proof of the mildness of the winter this moment presents itself in the shape of a humming bird, which I just saw from the open window, and this is in latitude 38º on the first day of February. Wheat is sown from October until March, and mnizo from March until July. As respects human health and comfort, the climate is incomparably better than that of any part of the United States. It is mueb the most healthy country I have ever seen or have any knowledge of. There is no dis- caso whatever that can be attributed to the iutluence of the climato.
ESTIMATES OX SIZE OF CALIFORNIA,
The face of the country differs as much from the United
37
REMARKABLE PREDICTIONS OF A PIONEER.
States as the climate. The whole territory is traversed by ranges of mountains, which run parallel to caeh other and to the coast. The highest points may be about six thousand feet above the sea, in most places much lower, and in many parts they dwindle to low hills. They are everywhere covered with grass and vegetation, and many of the valleys and northern decliv- ities abound with the finest timber trees. Between these ranges of mountains are level valleys, or rather plains, of every width, from five miles to fifty. The magnificent valley through which flow the rivers St. Joaquin and Sacramento is fire hun- dred miles long, with an average width of forty or fifty. It is intersected laterally by many smaller rivers, abounding with salınon.
The only inhabitants of this valley, which is capable of supporting a natiou, are abont a hundred and fifty Ameri- cans and a few Indians. No published maps that I have seen give any correct idea of the country, excepting the outline of the coast.
SAN FRANCISCO BAY DESCRIBED.
The Bay of San Francisco is considered by nautical men as one of the finest harbors in the world. It consists of two principal arms, diverging from the entrance in nearly opposite directions, and each about fifty miles long, with an average width of eight or ten. It is perfectly sheltered from every wind, has great depth of water, is easily accessible at all times, and space enough for half the ships in the world. The entrance is less than a mile wide, and could be easily fortificd so as to make it entirely impregnable. The vicinity abounds in the finest timber for ship-building, and in fact everything necessary to make it a great naval and commercial depot. If it were in the hands of a nation who knew how to make use of it, its influence would soon be felt on all the western coast of America, and probably through the whole Pacific.
A CHANGE PREDICTED.
I think it cannot long remain in the hands of its present owners, If it does not come into possession of Americans, the English will have it. This port in their hands, what will Oregon be worth to the United States? They loudly threaten to get possession of Cuba as an offset against Texas. Will they not be quite as likely to obtain California, as an offset against Oregon? A British ship of war was here last summer, whose captain was a brother of Lord Aberdeen, and one of her lien- , tenants a son of Sir R. Peel. The gentlemen declared openly that this port would shortly belong to them. This I take to be only a slight cbullition of John Bullism, but that they want this port, and will have it if possible, there can be no doubt, a consummation most earnestly and ardently to be deprecated by every American. I hope it may direct your views to take an interest in this matter.
ESTIMATE ON CAPABILITIES OF CALIFORNIA,
The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy of excellent quality are made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Apples, pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is beginning to be enltivated, and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even one hundred and fifty has been produced. Maize pro- duces tolerably well, but not equal to some parts of the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a sinall scale, and suceeed well. The raising of cattle is the prin- cipal pursuit of the inhabitants, and the most profitable.
The foreign commerce of Upper California employs from ten to fifteen sail of vessels, mostly large ships. Somewhat more than half of these are American, and belong exclusively to the port. of Boston. The others are English, French, Russian, Mexican, Peruvian aud Hawaiian. The French from their islands in the Pacific, and the Russians from Kamtschatka, and their establishments on the north-west coast, resort here for provis- ions and live stock. The exports consist of hides and tallow, cows, lard, wheat, soap, timber and furs. There are slaughtered annually about one hundred thousand head of cattle, worth $800,000. The whole value of the exports annually amounts to abont $1,000,000. The largest item of imports is American cotton goods. The duties on imports are enormously high, amounting on the most important articles to one hundred and fifty per cent on the original cost, and in many instances to four or five hundred. Thus, as in most Spanish countries, a high bounty is paid to encourage smuggling. Whale ships visit St. Franciseo annually inconsiderable numbers for refresh- ments, and fail not to profit by the facilities for illicit commerce.
CALIFORNIA WILL BE A STATE.
California, although nominally belonging to Mexico, is about as independent of it as Texas, and must ere long share the same fute. Since my residence here, no less than four Mexican Gov- ernors have been driven from the country by foree of arms. The last of these, Micheltorena, with about four hundred of his sol- diers and one hnudred employés, were driven away about a year ago.
This occurred at the time that the rest of the nation was expel- ling his master, Santa Ana, although nothing of this was known here at the time, The uew administration, therefore, with a good grace, highly approved of our conduct. In fact, the suc- cessive administrations in Mexico have always shown a dispo- sition to sanction and approve of whatever we may do here, Trom a conscious inability to retain even a nominal dominion over the country by any other means. Upper California has
38
HABITS AND LIFE OF THE ABORIGINES.
been governed for the last year entirely by its own citizens. Lower California is in general an uninhabited and uninhab- itable desert. The seanty population it contains lives near the extremity of the Cape, and has no connection and little inter- course with this part of the country.
GOLD MINES BEFORE SUTTER'S DISCOVERY.
Upper California has a productive gold mine, and silver ore has been found in many places. A mine of ynieksilver has been very lately found in this vieinity, which promises to be very valuable.
INDIANS OF CALIFORNI.A.
" I know not, sinee you have been so long engaged in more weighty eoneerns, if you take the same interest as formerly in Indian affairs, but sinee I have supposed your persoual identity to remain, I shall venture a few remarks ou the Aborigines of California. In stature the California Indian rather exceeds the average of the tribes east of the mountains. He is heavier limbed and stonter built. They are a hairy race, and some of them have beards that would do honor to a Turk. The color similar to that of the Algonquin race, or perhaps rather lighter. The visage, short and broad, with wide mouth, thiek lips, short, broad nose, and extremely low forelicad. In some individuals the hair grows quite down to the eyebrows, and they may be said to have no forehead at all. Some few have that peculiar conformation of the eye so remarkable in the Chinese and Tartar races, and entirely different from the com- mon American Indian or the Polynesian ; and with this unpromising set of features, some have an animated and agree- able expression of countenance. The general expression of the wild Indian has nothing of the proud and lofty bearing, or the haughtiness and ferocity so often seen east of the mountains. It is more commonly indieative of timidity and stupidity.
" The men and children are absolutely and entirely naked, aud the dress of the women is the least possible or conceivable remove from nudity. Their food varies with the season. In February and March they live on grass and herhage ; clover and wild pea-vine are among the best kinds of their pasturage. I have often seen hundreds of them grazing together in a meadow, like so many eattle. [Descendants of Nebuehadnex- zar .- ED.]
"'They are very poor hunters of the larger animals, but very skillful in making and managing nets for fish and food. They also colleet in their season great quantities of the seeds of various grasses, which are particularly abundant, Acorns are another principal article of food, which are larger, more abundant, and of better quality than I have seen eleswhere. The Californian is not more different from the tribes east of the mountains in his physical than in his moral and intellectual qualities. They are easily domesticated, not averse to labor,
have a natural aptitude to learn mechanical trades, and, I believe, universally a fondness for innsie, and a facility in acquiring it.
INDIANS OF THE MISSION.
"The Mission of St. Joseph, when in its prosperity, had one hundred plough-men, and I have secu them all at work in one field each with his plough. It had also fifty weavers, twenty tan- ners, thirty shoe-makers, forty masons, twenty carpenters, ten blaeksiniths, and various other mechanics. They are not nearly so much addicted to intoxication as is common to other Indians. " I was for some years of the opinion that they were of an entirely different race from those cast of the mountains, and they certainly have but little similarity. The only thing that caused me to think differently is that they have the same Moecasin game that is so common on the Mississippi, and what is inore remarkable, they accompany it by singing precisely the same tune! The diversity of language among them is very great. It is seldom an Indian can understand another who lives fifty miles distant; within the limits of California are at least a hundred dialcets, apparently entirely dissimilar. Few or no white persons have taken any pains to learn theun, as there are individuals in all the tribes which have comun- nieation with the settlements who speak Spanish.
INDIANS EASILY DOMESTICATED.
The children, when caught young, are most easily domesti- cated, and manifest a great aptitude to learn whatever is tanght them; when taken into Spanish families, aud treated with kindness, in a few months they learn the language and habits of their masters, When they come to maturity they show no disposition to return to the savage state. The mind of the wild Indian, of whatever age, appears to be a tubula rasa, on which no impressions, except those of mere animal nature, have been made, and ready to receive any impress whatever. I remember a remark of your's some years ago, that " Indians were only grown-up children." Here we have a real race of infants. In many recent instances when a family of white people have taken a farm in the vicinity of an Indian village, in a short time they would have the whole trihe for willing serfs. They submit to flagellation with more humility than the negroes. Nothing more is necessary for their complete subjugation but kindness in the beginning, and a little well- thned severity when manifestly deserved. It is common for the white man to ask the Indian, when the latter has commit- ted any fault, how many lashes he thinks he deserves.
INDIAN SUSIPLICITY.
" The Indian, with a simplicity and humility almost incon- ceivable, replies ten or twenty, according to his opinion of the I magnitudo of the offense. The white man then orders another
GARDEN VIEW OF RESIDENCE.
FARM YARD VIEW. RESIDENCE OF EUGENE
SHERWOOD.
EL SAUSAL RANCHO. NEAR SALINAS CITY,
MONTEREY
CO. CAL.
SANG
39
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
Indian to inflict the punishment, which is received without the least sign of resentment or discontent. This I have myself witnessed or I could hardly have believed it. Throughout all California the Indians are the principal laborers; without them the business of the country could hardly be carried on.
" I fear the unexpected length of this desultory epistle will be tedious to you, but I hope it will serve at least to diversify your correspondence. If I can afford you any information, or be servicable to yon in any way, I beg you to command me. Any communication to me can be sent through the American Minister at Mexico, or the Commanding Officer of the Squad- ron in the Pacific, directed to the care of T. O. Larkin, Esq., American Consnl in Monterey. I am, sir, very respectfully,
" Your obedient servant,
" HON, LEWIS CASS. JOHN MARSH,"
Dr. Marsh was murdered on the 24th of September, 1856 It occasioned much excitement at the time, as the Doctor was one of the oldest residents of the State. The murderers were Mexicans, who followed him as he was on the road towards home from Pacheco. The discovery of the horse and buggy in Martinez at early daylight was the first knowledge of the affair. One of the murderers was arrested the next day. He was tried, but escaped from jail and eluded pursuit for ten years. He was again arrested with his accomplice, P. Moreno, who was sentenced to State prison for life, while the first was discharged.
INCREASED IMMIGRATION TO CALIFORNIA.
1840 .- In the first five years of the dlecade commencing with 1840, there began to settle in the vast Californian valleys that intrepid band of pioneers, who, having scaled the Sierra Nevadas with their wagons, trains, and cattle, began the civil- izing influences of progress on the Pacific coast. Many of them had left their homes in the Atlantic and Sonthein States, with the avowed intention of proceeding direct to Oregon. On arrival at Fort Hall, however, they heard glowing accounts of the salubrity of the Californian climate and the fertility of its soil ; they therefore turned their heads sonthward and steered for the wished-for haven. At length, after weary days of toil and anxiety, fatigued and foot-sore, the promised land was gained. And what was it like ?
CALIFORNIA IN A STATE OF NATURE,
The valleys were an interminable grain field; mile upon inile, and acre after acre, wild oats grew in marvellous profu- sion, in many places to a prodigious height -- one glorious green of wild waving corn-high overhead of the wayfarer on foot, and shoulder-high with the equestrian; will flowers of every pris- matic shade charmed the eye, while they vied with cach other in the gorgeousness of their colors, and blended into dazzling splendor.
One breath of wind and the wide emerald expanse rippled itself into space, while with the heavier breeze came a swell whose rolling waves beat against the mountain sides, and, being hurled back, were lost in tbe far-away horizon; shadow pursued shadow in a long, incrry chasc.
The air was filled with the hum of bees, the chirrup of birds, and an overpowering fragrance from various plants. The hill- sides, overrun as they were with a dense mass of tangled jungle, were hard to penetrate, while in some portions the deep dark gloom of the forest trecs lent relief to the eye. The almost boundless range was intersected throughout with diver- gent trails, whereby tbe traveler moved from point to point, progress being, as it were, in darkness on account of the height of the oats on either side, and rendered dangerous in the valleys by the bands of untamed cattle, sprung from the stock introduced by the missions and early Spanish settlers. These
GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER.
found food and shelter on the plains during the night; at dawn they repaired to the higher grounds to chew the cud and bask in the sunshine.
THE HARDY PIONEERS.
What a life was that of the carly pioneer, and how much of life was often crowded into a year, or, sometimes, even into a day of their existence! Now, that the roads are all made, and the dim trail has been supplanted by well-beaten and much-traveled highways, how complacently we talk and write and read of their deeds and exploits. The writer of fifty years hence will be the man who will have the license to color up the heroic deeds of valor, and set forth in fitting words a proper tribute to the valor and prowess of the generation that is just now passing from our midst. We of to-day cannot, dare not, say it as it should be, for there are living witnesses who would say it was too highly colored-too romantic, too fanciful.
40
ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN SUTTER. AND OTHERS.
TOIL AND PRIVATIONS OF PIONEERS.
It has been theirs to subdue the wilderness and change it into smiling fields of bright growing grain, Toil and priva- tions, such as we cau little appreciate now, was their lot for years. Poor houses, and even no houses at all, but a simple tent or even an Indian wiekeup sheltered them from the rigors of the storm and the inclemeney of the weather. The wild beasts of the woods were their night visitors, prowling about and making night hideous with their unearthly noises, and working the nerves of women, and often, perhaps of men, np to a tension that precluded the possibility of sleep and rest. Neighbors lived many miles away, and visits were rare and highly appreciated.
LAW AND ORDER PREVAIL.
Law and order prevailed almost exclusively, and locks and bars to doors were then unknown, and the only thing to fear in human shape were the petty depredations by Indians. For food they had the fruit of the chase, which afforded them ample meat, but bread was sometimes a rarity, and appreciated when had as only those things are which tend most to our com- fort, and which we are able to enjoy the least amount of. But they were happy in that life of freedom from the environments of society and social usage. They breathed the pure, fresh air, untainted by any odor of civilization; they ate the first fruits of the virgin soil, and grew strong and free on its strength and freedom.
ARRIVAL OF. CAPTAIN SUTTER.
The southern portion of California was essentially Spanish and Mexican in its population, while the northern part was left to the occupation of foreigners. The Sacramento valley was comparatively unnoticed until after the settlement of Captain John A. Sutter at New Helvetia, but following that event, it became the theater for grand operations and achievements. Sutter's Fort was the neneleus about which congregated nearly all of the early cinigrants, and the annexation of California is largely due to the influence of that gentleman and those associated with him. Ever hospitable and generous, he was a friend to whom the early settlers and explorers repaired for advice and sustenanec.
1839 .- Captain John Augustus Sutter was born in Baden, Germany, at midnight, February 28, 1803, of Swiss parents, After the completion of his einention he became a captain in the French army, but becoming tired of the superficial nature of French society and customs, he set out for America, to find some secluded spot where he might surround himself with a home and associations more in consonance with his ideas and tastes. New York was reached in July, 1834, and from their, after a sojourn of only one month, the Captain went to the far-
famed " West." From here he journeyed to New Mexico and having heard of the marvelous beauty and fertility of Califor- nia, he joined a party of trappers, expecting soon to reach his destination. But the journey ended at Fort Vancouver, and Captain Sutter's only way to reach California was to go to the Sandwich Islands and from there to take a sailing ship to Mon- terey. After waiting a long time in Honolulu he took passage in a ship bound for Sitka. By singular good luck the vessel was driven into San Francisco bay, July 2, 1839.
Captain Sntter, having reached the goal of his ambition, received permission from the Mexican authorities to select a place for settlement in the Sacramento valley. After much difficulty he finally succeeded in reaching the junction of the Sacramento and American rivers.
SUTTER'S FORT LOCATED.
A location was made, and Captain Sutter commenced the construction of a honse. The spot was named " New Helvetia," in honor of his mother-country. On account of the strength, armament and formidable appearance of the buildings, the place was called by all the early settlers " Sutter's Fort," which name is even now the most general one. This fort was com- menced in 1842 and finished in 1844. In 1841, when his grant of land was to be made, it became necessary to have a map of the tract, and he employed for that purpose Captain Jean Vioget, a seaman and Swiss by birth. The survey was made by lines of latitude and longitude. Sutter made his application under this survey of 1841, the same year the map was completed. The Mexican laws allowed only eleven leagues to be granted to any one person, but Sutter's map contained fifty leagues or inore. Nevertheless, he got the idea that he couldl hohl it, and with this eame the ilea that he could sell it. The original claim embraced a considerable portion of Sacramento and Placer counties, all of Sutter, the valley portion of Yuba, and a little point of Colusa.
1840 .- In the early part of 1839 a company was made up in St. Louis, Missouri, to cross the plains to California, consisting of D. G. Johnson, Charles Klein, David D. Dutton, mentionel earlier as having come to the country with Captain Smith, and William Wiggins. Fearing the treachery of the Indians this little band determined to await the departure of a party of traders in the employ of the American Fur Company, on their annual tour to the Rocky Mountains. At Westport they were joined by Messrs. Wright, Gogger, a Doctor Wiselzenins and his German companion, and Peter Lassen, also two missionaries with their wives mul hired man, en route for Oregou, as well as a lot of what were termed fur trappers, bound for the mount- ains, the entire company consisting of twenty-seven men and two women. At Fort Hall, Klein and Wiselzenins returned. thus reducing the number to twenty-five.
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