USA > California > Monterey County > History of Monterey County, California : with illustrations descriptive of its scenery, farms, residences, public buildings, factories, hotels, business houses, schools, churches, and mines : with biiographical sketches of prominent citizens > Part 24
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To one unacquainted with the place, unaccustomed to meet its kindly host, unconversant with the hospital, its patients, their wants and treatment, this might secm an intensificd and
highly eolored picture. We, however, as one who has ever felt honored with Dr. Archer's acquaintance, and friendship, as one who has been long a witness to his aets as a generous benc- factor to bis race, to his unselfish generosity, aud the evidences of his high purpose, say it is true.
And so amongst all this kindly limning of nature, amongst all this generous hospitality of one good soul, amongst all the hearty laughings, prattlings and playing of innocent childhood, the conversation of virtuous womanhood, and the acts of noble manhood, the sick and disheartened, the wealthy suffercr, as well as the indigent wanderer, finds a home, and the many tes- timonials and letters received by him bear witness that humanity is not all a fraud, and that the heart sometimes remains true to the devotee of its affection.
What is written here is done in kindness. Our poor pen can say but little. Humanity cared for, full of gratitude, can and will swell the chorus of these words.
And so, in this quiet villa, among a rural, half-sleeping people, with a park, once ornamented, but now unadorned, upon which the lowing herd with tinkling bells feed and sleep away the day, and the seliool-children play; the store and dwelling of honest Sam Irvine and his kindly family ; the genial hospitality of Dou Manuel A. Castro, and his home ; the hearty welcome of Don J. M. Soto, of the Rancho Santa Rita ; the cducating influ- ence of the little publie sehool-house on the hill-top ; the wast- ing ashes of the old church on the opposite hill, which has tolled its last curfew; among these influences and surroundings still stands the grand dedication to humanity, true beniticenee and Christian charity-the hospital and home of Dr. S. M. Archer, and long may it stand as a monument of pride to its founder and the people of Monterey county. W. S. DODGE.
OLD INMATE OF HOSPITAL.
Jose Lauriano is an inmate of the County Hospital at Santa Rita. He is at least one bundred and seven years old. He has full possession of all his faculties, and his memory is good, being able to relate ineidents which occurred over a hundred years ago. He was for years a resident of the old Carmelo Mission in this county, where he was educated by the priests. He is quite talkative, and doubtless any one conversant witb the Spanish language eould obtain a great deal of valuable information. Unfortunately our education is defective in that respect, and we had to interview him through an interpreter. Jose Lauriano is a very devout Catholic, and we believe, a sin- eere Christian. He passes a great portion of his time in prayer and reading bis prayer-book. Should one of the patieuts in the hospital be considered dangerously sick, Jose will go to his bedside and pray most earnestly. He is much liked by all the inmates of the hospital, and it is needless to say he is most kindly treated by the physician-in-charge, Dr. S. M. Archer .- Index.
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EARLY DAYS OF MONTEREY AND THE MISSION.
Monterey, the Old Capital.
WE have elsewhere mentioned the discovery of Monterey. It was at once selected as the capital of Alta California, and Portala appointed as its first governor. Owing to the small amount of available agricultural land witbin Carmel Mission Church. tbe semi-circle of hills surround- ing Monterey, the mission was soon removed to the neigh- boring valley of Carmelo. The presidio, or military estab- lisbment, however, still remained at Monterey. This con- sisted of an inclosure about three hundred yards square, con- taining a chapel, store-houses, offices, residences and barracks for the soldiers. It was located where the Catholic church now stands. A rude fort was built on the hill overlooking the bay, and armed with a few small cannon. These constituted tbe nucleus of the future town.
Calmly the years drifted away, scarcely causing a ripple upon the slowly swelling tide of progress. Governor suc- ceeded governor, and cacb was content to render tribute to the Viceroy of Mexico, while the fruitful land over which he ruled maintained him in luxurious idleness. In 1822, Mexico, becoming tired of Spanish rule, established herself as a sepa- rate empire. Upon receiving intelligence of this important event, Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola summoned a council of tbe principal military officials and cburch dignitaries at Mon- terey, and formally announced the action of their motber country. The council unanimously decided that henceforth California was subject to Mexico alone. The oatbs were changed and Sola became the first Mexican governor, or more correctly, "Political Chief of the Territory." The apathetic inhabitants offered no resistance, and the change was effected without a struggle.
Monterey was the capital for many years, and many of the governors under Spanish, Mexican, and American rule made their homes there.
WRECK OF THE NATALIA.
The harbor of Monterey was visited about this time hy numerous vessels, which realized an enormous profit by trad- ing their assorted eargoes for hides.
On the 25th of September, 1834, Hijar, Director of Coloni- zation, arrived at Monterey on the brig Natalia, for the pur- pose of secularizing the missions. The Natalia, which was the same vessel in which Napoleon the Great made his memor- able escape from Elba, was thrown upon the beach by a storm and totally wrecked.
The ship came drifting into Monterey bay in the foggy meshes of an exceedingly inclement night in September, 1834, to escape from the dangers of the storm king outside. The anchor was soon cast, but alas! soon thereafter the cable parted, and a strong flood tide, in connection with a vigorous norther, carried the vessel to destruction. The loss of the brig is justly attributed to extreme carelessness and the incompe- tency of the captain. The wreck is securely imbedded in the sand near the wharf, aud is slowly rotting away. A hundred years hence probably not a vestige of it will be found remain- ing. The ship Lagoda of Boston was there at the time and rode out the gale without even dragging ber anchor.
THE OLD MISSION OF CARMELO.
This mission is next to the oldest in the State, situated about five miles south of Monterey, and was built by Spanish padres over one hundred years ago. The walls are fast crumbling, in fact, one has already fallen, and the whole building presents a dilapidated and ruined appearance. The only really destruc- tible thing left is the baptismal font, hewn by Indians from solid stone.
The yellow grain is already encroaching on the very entrance of Carmelo Mission, and not three hundred feet from wbere tbe fat and jolly friars taught the Scriptures to the docile Indians, is a thrifty farm and a fariner's family, with a large brood of little ones. They run wild over the ground wbere repose, unmarked by beadstones or cross, the bones of many of tbe real argonauts of the Pacific coast, the men who landed on the beautiful beach at Monterey and settled in an unknown land before the Americans thought of seceding from the motber country.
A VISIT TO THE RUINS.
As you sit upon one of the fallen roof-beams, and gaze upon the sbattered font, the broken-down crosses, the ruined altar, and the general seene of devastation and desolation around, and remember that this is one of the most ancient and important historical monuments of California, the home and the grave of the moral hero of the age, the true pioneer of California pro- gress-Junipero Serra, and the tomb of no less than fifteen Governors of this State, a painful feeling arises.
Carmel Mission is the old Westminister Abbey of the State, the mausoleum of the great and the good, and the nation rewards the services of the past by giving up the dust of the good and brave to the guardianship of gophers and squirrels. Thorns and briars, nettles and loathsome weeds, adorn their graves. A few short years, and naught will remain of this holy edifiee save an undistinguishable mass of debris. A few more years, and it will be too late -- even now it will be some-
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AFFLUENT DAYS OF THE CARMEL MISSION.
what difficult-to restore it .. Whatever is done should be done quickly, nobly, and generously, for the present state of tlie mission is a standing reproach to the church which owns it, and a disgrace to the whole State of California.
On the 4th of November of each year the Monterey padre holds a religious festival in honor of San Carlos, the patron saint of Carmelo. The ruins are decorated with flowers and ever- greens, and mirth and festivity are the order of the day.
AFFLUENT DAYS OF THE MISSION.
The lands surrounding the Carmel Mission were fertilized by a perennial stream of pure water, and this offered advantages, which the fathers were not slow to avail themselves of, for the culti- vation of many kinds of vegetables and fruits. It was on the lands of this mis- sion that the first potatoes grown in Cali- fornia were raised, in 1826. The priv- ilege of planting this esculent was given to the natives without limit, and they so improved their opportunities that Coast Scene. the whalers, which made a regular stopping-place of Monterey, supplied themselves with great quantities. The temporal welfare of the estate bad reached a great development in the year 1825, when the fathers possessed ninety thousand cattle, fifty thousand sheep, two thousand horses, two thousand calves, three hundred and seventy yoke of oxen, with merchandise to the value of $50,000, and over $40,000 in silver. In 1835 tbe property, by a decree of the Mexican Congress, was converted to secular uses.
Among the edifices erected in Upper California by the mis- sionary fathers, that of San Carlos was one of the best in style and material. There were good ideas of architectural form in the head that planned this solid building. The two great towers gave an air of dignity to the vast construction, and one sees, now that ruin has overtaken them, what it cannot be merely fanciful to suppose was intentional with the designer, that there is a prevailing slope of the walls of the main build- ing from the ground to the roof, so that the general form of the church, seen a vol d'oiseau, recalls that of a mound, the very shape of the Syrian Mount Carmel. It is a noble build- ing, standing in a landscape full of enchanting beauties.
Around the church, often in the form of a square, were situ- ated the habitations of the fathers and their household servants, and the various workshops, store-houses and granaries ; and beyond these, again, at the distance of one or two hundred yards, stood the huts of the Indians. The dwellings of the priests and their people, and the store-houses, were constructed of the adobes, or sun-dried bricks, and covered with brick tiles.
The huts of the Indians were generally formed of a few poles, with one end stuck in the ground and the other bent toward the center, so as to make a kind of cone; and these were covered with reeds and grass. The whole village was fre- quently iuclosed by an adobe wall.
BEAUTIFUL BAY OF MONTEREY.
The broad bay furnishes the safest and best boating and yachting on the waters of the Pacific; fishing is more amply repaid in sport and profit than at any other fishing-ground within the range of our knowledge. The chief novelty in this line to the stranger, however, is that in which he can take no active part-the whale-fishing. For twenty-five years or more this has been a whaling station, and thousands of the monsters of the deep have been captured and brought in here and made to yield their quota of oil.
Sea-bathing here is entirely safe, and freely indulged in by the multitudes of visitors cach season. The shelving beach is so sheltered that the child of tender years may safely enter the water. A beautiful crescent is Monterey bay, a rock- bound shore, softened here and there into gentle beaches, covered with pebbles and shells, and a grove of pines whose roots are washed by the ocean waves.
PORTALA'S CROSS.
In the fall of 1769, Gasper de Portala, Governor of Lower California, at the head of two priests and sixty-three soldiers, came overland from San Diego, and erected a cross near the Bay of Monterey, although he failed to identify the place according to the map and other descriptions furnished one hun- dred and sixty-six years before by Viscaiño. As you pass over the little bridge on the road to Pacific Grove, you will see to the left a weather-beaten cross, which is supposed to be planted where the padres landed.
This Christian incident has been exquisitely apostrophized in verse by Bret Harte, as follows :---
Pious Portala, journeying by land, Reared high a cross upon the heathen strand, Then far away Dragged his slow caravan to Monterey.
The mountains whispered to the valleys, "Good !" The sun, slow sinking in the western Hood, Baptized in blood The holy standard of the Brotherhood.
The timid fog crept in across the sea, Drew near, embraced it, and streamed far and free, Saying, "O, ye Gentiles and Heathen, this is truly He ! "
All this the Heathen saw; and when once more The holy Fathers touched the lovely shore- Then covered o'er With shells and gifts-the cross their witness bore.
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CUSTOM HOUSE, LIBRARY, AND NEWSPAPER.
THE OLD CUSTOM HOUSE.
According to " Pioneer," the foundation, or rather the cen- tral portion of the Custom House was laid when the flag of Old Spain waved over Upper California, and after lying for years in that state, the walls were raised under Mexican rule, and a tiled roof put over the central part. At the eud were built two small towers, shingled over, though one of them was not completed until 1844-5. In the Mexican time the Cus- tom House could boast a boat and crew; but now Uncle Sam is too poor to support one in the third harbor of California, though it is the only port where a vessel can lay in safety during south-easters, between San Francisco and San Diego. In early days it used to support four Custom House officers, for Monterey was the port where the duties were paid by ves- sels trading with the Mexican department or territory of Upper California.
In the latter part of 1844 the Custom House, or central part of it, was turned into a ball-room by the officers of the U. S. frigate Savannah, then lying at anchor in the bay. The Savannah was commanded at that time by Capt. Armstrong -- not a bad kind of a man, but too fond of the cats, the crew thought; and they not only thought so, but felt them occasion- ally when applied to their backs. The officers and citizens of Monterey had given balls or fandangoes to the officers of the frigate, and in return they gave one at the old Custom House before the frigate left. It was quite a grand affair, and lasted until sunrise. The frigate's band of music was in attendance to play, and the crew were on shore all night, waiting to take the officers on board. While the officers were dancing with the señoras and señoritas of Monterey, the erew, for want of better amusement, danced with the grog bottles; and when it came time to take the officers on board, all the crew were drunk. This, of course, was wrong and contrary to the discipline of the service. Perhaps the sailors thought that, as the officers were drinking wine as well as dancing inside, they might drink aguardiente outside; but as Capt. Armstrong did not view it in that light, lie served out thirty dozen lashes to them with the cat-o'-nine-tails, to afford them a little more light on the subject.
FIRST PUBLIC LIBRARY.
The Monterey Library Association was organized in 1849, and is believed to be the first public library established in California. The greater part of the books were purchased in New York, and consisted of American and Spanish works, and were mueh valued at that time. Milton Little was president of this association in 1853.
Rev. S. H. Willey in his "Thirty Years in California," says: " Before I got to be too busy otherwise, I proposed the plan of a library to the people. They entered into it heartily, and
subscribed at once some fifteen hundred dollars, with which to buy books. Ihad a good supply of New York publishers' cat- alogues along with me, and so, with the assistance of others, I mnade out a very choice list of books. In due time they all came in good order, and so on the list of California public libraries, that in Monterey ranks as the one established first."
FIRST ALCALDE.
Immediately after Sloat took possession of Monterey, the people accepted the change with characteristic resignation, and Walter Colton was appointed the first Alcalde under the new regime.
Colton, who had previously been chaplain of the frigate Congress, held the office of Alcalde for three years, during which time he figured prominently in the affairs of the town. He wrote a work called " Three Years in California," which was in the nature of a journal, and gave an excellent insight into the character of the people and of proceedings in those times.
FIRST NEWSPAPER IN CALIFORNIA.
In connection with Semple, a pioneer from Kentucky, Wal- ter Colton established the first newspaper ever published in California. It was called the Californian, and made its first appearance on Saturday, August 15, 1846. It was printed on paper originally intended for the manufacture of cigarettes, and was a little larger than a sheet of foolscap. The office was resurrected from the remains of a sinall concern formerly used for printing Roman Catholic tracts in Spanish. There being no W in the Spanish alphabet, they were compelled to use two V's (thus, VV) wherever a W occurred. The Californian, it is needless to say, was eagerly welcomed, and soon attained quite a circulation. It was finally merged in the Alta California, when the latter paper was established at San Francisco.
Gen. Sherman says the press belonged to the United States, having been captured at the Custom House, and first used for printing official blanks. It was printed in Spanish and English.
COLTON HALL.
To Walter Colton belongs the honor of erecting the first building of importance in California. It was intended for a town hall and school-house. In this building the Convention met that formed the first Constitution for this State.
Monterey was there represented by H. W. Halleck, T. O. Larkin, C. T. Botts, P. Ord, and L. Dent. Although this Con- vention prepared a good Constitution, it effectually blighted the future of Monterey by passing a resolution to remove the capitol to San Jose, and as a consequence from 1849 to 1879. thirty long years, Monterey has merely existed.
RESIDENCE OF W.C.LAND, POWELL ST HOLLISTER CAL.
DAIRY & RESIDENCE OF E, NASON, SAN FELIPE, SAN BENITO CO. CAL.
ОШАРА.3.2
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GROWTH AND DECLINE OF MONTEREY CITY.
FIRST CALIFORNIA JURY.
The first jury summoned in California was impaneled by Colton, on September 4, 1846. It was composed of one-third Mexicans, one-third Californians, and the other third Amer- icans. This new system of trial proved eminently satisfactory, as it always must when properly administrated.
FIRST BILLIARD-TABLE.
In the bar-room of the old and well-known Washington Hotel, surrounded by antiquated pictures and enveloped in the folds of an ancient cloth, stands the pioneer billiard-table of the Golden State. This table was manufactured in England in 1832, was sold to a scion of English aristocracy in 1833, and was finally purchased and sent to Monterey in the bappy golden days of '49, and its advent here was enthusiastically cele- brated, and everybody got happy on the festive occasion. The table cost originally about $3,000, and Lockwood ought to preserve it carefully. It is an excellent table.
THE FIRST PIANO.
Another sacred musical memento of the mystic and pros- perous days of long ago, is the piano which was purchased many years ago by the late popular and generous merchant, Don Jose Abrego. The piano was manufactured in the sub- urbs of London in 1830, and was used, we believe, in the orchestra before the foot-lights of a popular London theatre, on several occasions, to assist in contributing to the enjoyment of many of the crowned heads of Europe. It was, some years subsequently, shipped to Monterey, and purchased by Don Jose Abrego at a big price, and it is still an excellent toned instrument, and a highly prized heirloom of the remaining members of the family.
MONTEREY BECOMES A CITY.
By an Act of the Legislature, passed April 30, 1851, tbe town was duly incorporated. Philip A. Roach, now of San Francisco, who was then Alcalde, was elected the first Mayor." His administration was ummarked by any events worthy of special mention. He was succeeded by Gilbert Murdock, of the firm of Curtis & Murdock, merchants, who was followed by W. H. MeDowell. Although McDowell was duly elected Mayor, he never served as such. The duties of the office were discharged by Charles Herron.
Monterey did not long remain a city, for by an Act approved May 11, 1853, her charter was amended and the control of municipal affairs vested in a board of three trustees.
In 1859 the town found herself so much in debt that it became necessary, in order to meet her obligations, to sell the greater portion of the Pueblo grant. Such extravagance brought the trustees into disrepute, and at the next session of the Legislature the charter was again amended in such a manner as to render their powers, either for good or for evil, exceedingly limited.
During the legislative session of 1869-70 an attempt at re-in- corporation was made; the bill passed the Assembly, but was defeated in the Senate. Another attempt was then made, but in some manner the bill again miscarried. A third effort to obtain the desired result proved somewhat more successful. In 1873-4 the " Act to Re-incorporate the City of Monterey " was carried through botb houses and reached the Governor, who, it is alleged, failed to return it within the specified time, and Monterey still remains under control of trustees.
CELEBRATED FORMER RESIDENTS.
Monterey has been honor- ed by the presence, at one time or another, from 1846 to 1856, of many officers who have since distinguished themselves. Halleck served a term of duty at the old California capital; so also did Ueach Serve. Wm. T. Sherman, and Phil. Kcarney, who was killed at Chantilly, and General Riley. Colonel Burton, who married a señorita of San Diego, died since the war; his widow is still living at Jamul, in San Diego county, and her pretty daughter, Nellie, is the wife of Miguel Pedroreno, who has cattle on a thousand hills. Sully, who married the prettiest girl at Monterey in those days, Señorita Manuela Jimeno, an alliance which inspired Bayard Taylor to write a very delightful poem, rose to the rank of Major-General in the Union army, and died a few years ago in Oregon. Among others were General Reynolds, a Captain at Monterey, wbo died at Antietam ; General Lyon, then a Captain, who was killed in Missouri ; General Magruder, then brevet Colonel; General Andrews, then a Lieutenant, who was on Canby's staff at the taking of Mobile; General Stoneman, then Lieutenant, one of the most gallant of the Federal officers, now one of the Railroad Commissioners of California; General Slemmer, then a Lieutenant, badly wounded at Stone river; General Mason, then a Lieutenant, now retired; General Heintzelman, then brevet Major, who commanded in Washington most of the time during the war ; General Frank Patterson, then Lieutenant, who raised one of the first regiments in Philadelphia, and who afterwards committed suicide; General Armistead, then brevet Major, who left Los Angeles with Albert Sydney Johnson, and was killed at the battle of Gettysburg; General E. O. C. Ord,
"In 1849 Philip Rouch was Alcalde, and brought around the Horn two frame houses, which may now be seen at Blonterey.
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A STROLL THROUGH MODERN MONTEREY.
then Captain; Lieutenant Murray; Major Ringgold, who died at San Francisco some years ago. Then there was the never- to-be-forgotten Lieutenant Derby, (",John Phoenix "), who was known as " Squibob" at Monterey, and Captain Kane, the "Squebol " of the " gang," and Ed. Bingham, General Taylor's orderly, who, it will be remembered, was shot in a fraeas on board a Panama steamner.
VISIT TO MODERN MONTEREY.
The second night I was in Monterey, its mellow-toned old structures were transformed by moonlight-the mnost appro- priate time to visit old towns of ruins. Tiled roofs, decaying balconies, projeeting and serrated eaves, the warm-colored eop- ings of adobe walls that shut in the narrow streets, and all the quaint adjunets and fixtures of the old Spanish architecture, glimmered like an intricate mesh of woven silver over the town. It was delightful to wander here on American soil where a hundred years ago the supercilions Dons of Spain lorded it at their own sweet will. And the hush and the sub- dued light but served to intensify the feeling.
Walking down Alvarado street, lined with the mossed and ancient buildings of the Mexican Oeeupation, some tenanted now by bats and rats, and vocal -with the moaning night wind, I eamne presently into a sinall, irregular area, formerly known as the Plaza of the Fountain. Here a stupid but practical pump dispenses its bounty to beast in a huge trough. But there is no convenienee for man. Nor seemed tliere need of any, with the pungent odor of aguardiente assailing your nos- trils from every low, brown entranee on the square.
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