USA > California > Napa County > History of Napa and Lake Counties, California : comprising their geography, geology, topography, climatography, springs and timber, together with a full and particular record of the Mexican Grants, also separate histories of all the townships and biographical sketches > Part 89
USA > California > Lake County > History of Napa and Lake Counties, California : comprising their geography, geology, topography, climatography, springs and timber, together with a full and particular record of the Mexican Grants, also separate histories of all the townships and biographical sketches > Part 89
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UPPER LAKE .- There is but one town in the township and that is a small village bearing the name at the head of this paragraph. The early history of the place extends back to 1866. In that year a man by the name of Bukofsky had a store there, and Caspar Sweikert had a blacksmith shop at the same place. Previous to this, and probably in 1856 or 1858, William B. Elliott had a blacksmith shop at his place, which was, of course, the first
* It will be seen by this that the writer of the quoted sketch has located him at the head of Napa Valley, which is proper. If the reader will bear in mind the fact that his residence was all the time at this place, instead of in Sonoma County, much obscurity will be removed from this sketch. It is not reasonable to suppose that it were easier to get to Mark West Creek from Bodega, by way of Napa, than Santa Rosa, even at that early day.
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business place of any kind in the upper end of the valley. The first store in that vicinity was not erected at the present site of the town, but below or south of it. About 1865 the present site was decided upon and several buildings were moved to the present town location.
Bukofsky sold to a man by the name of Houghton and he to N. McCrosky. Mr. Dewell states that there was a store in that vicinity as early as 1856. It is possible that the gentleman intended to say 1866, as that is the year in which all others agree that it was located. Henry Taylor put the first hotel in operation in the place and it was among the first build- ings in the town. In a newspaper note of 1866 it is stated that " a hall is to be erected during the next year (1867) for the double purpose of lodges and schools." As the school building looks the most dilapidated of any in the county, and is not situated in the town at all, it is probable that this prognostication was never verified.
The town of Upper Lake is situated on a low, flat tract of land near the junction of Clover, Middle and Scotts Creeks and the head of Clear Lake. The floods come down the streams and cover the streets of the town at fre- quent intervals. The town, of itself, is a pretty little place, but of its loca- tion certainly not so much can be said. We wish that we could say that its future growth would amount to anything considerable, but of this there is certainly no assurance, as there seems to be nothing about the place to build a town upon. It will always remain quite a lively little town, supplying the section back of it, and as it settles up and more demands are made upon the place, it is fair to presume that they will be met.
The present business of the town is as follows : three stores, three hotels, three livery stables, one meat market, two blacksmith shops, three churches, one planing and grist mill, and one saloon. The population of the place is probably one hundred and fifty.
INDEPENDENT ORDER OF ODD-FELLOWS .- Upper Lake Lodge, No. 241, I. O. O. F., was organized January 8, 1876, with the following charter mem- bers : Dexter Witter, D. T. Taylor, Orrin Smith, M. Asher, C. Johnson, C. C. Grove, L. Gurnett, W. Ballinger, R. P. White, W. H. Woodward, G. K. McMath, F. M. Gully and H. Parmer. The first officers were D. Witter, N. G .; R. P. White, V. G .; G. K. McMath, Secretary; A. W. Brown, Treasurer. The following named gentlemen have had the honor of filling the Noble Grand's chair : D. Witter, R. P. White, D. T. Taylor, C. McMath, J. W. Doty, J. B. Robinson, W. H. Woodward, William Kerr and M. Asher. The present officers are M. Asher, N. G .; J. N. League, V. G .; J. B. Robinson, Secretary, and Benjamin Dewell, Treasurer. The present membership is sixteen, and the lodge is in a very prosperous condition. They have a nicely furnished hall over Mr. J. N. League's store.
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Upper Lake Township.
ELLIOTT'S MILL .- To William Elliott belongs the honor of having the first grist mill in that section of the country. In 1858 he erected a water- power mill, with a single run of stone, and no boult, on Clover Creek. It ground very slowly indeed, and while the patrons would be waiting for their grist they would busy themselves with whittling, and in time the mill came to have the queer cognomen of " Whittle-busy." Another version is, that Elliott used to say of his mill, that it kept it busy whittling away all day to get a stipulated amount ground. The mill remained in use till 1867.
PLANING AND GRIST MILL .- The Upper Lake planing and grist mill was erected in 1875, by Thomas Keatley. The building is located in the northern portion of town, and is 100x32 feet in size. The proprietor is prepared for planing, grinding grain, manufacturing doors, sash and furni- ture. The power iss team, and the engine eight and one-half horse-power. Mr. Keatley is the present proprietor.
MILLS .- As lumbering is not one of the principal industries of Lake County, it is not expected to find many mills within its borders, never- theless there are quite a number. In Upper Lake Township are found the following :
PINE MOUNTAIN MILL .- In 1865, J. Bateman and M. N. Young built a saw mill on Pine Mountain. They sold their property to H. A. Humphrey and O. Smith in 1866. These parties conducted the business till 1874, when they disposed of it to W. H. Manlove. He sold a half-interest to L. A. Young. A part of the machinery was moved to Elk Mountain, and is now owned by L. A. Young & Co. This mill on Pine Mountain was steam- power and had a capacity of ten thousand feet.
THE DENISON MILL .- This mill was moved from Mendocino County by A. J. Stroup, and located on Little Horse Mountain, about fourteen miles north-west of Upper Lake. It was moved from there to Pine Mountain in 1872, and Mr. Denison became proprietor in the following year. The mill is now owned by G. H. Haynes.
HANSON'S MILL .- This mill was built by J. F. Hanson, at the head of Long Valley, in 1875. A run of buhrs was added to the mill in 1876. The power is steam, and it is a fine mill, though small.
BARTLETT SPRINGS MILL .- J. J. Andray built a mill at the head of the cañon, a short distance above Bartlett Springs, in 1875. It was only run for two years, and the buildings are all going to decay very fast. The power was steam, but its capacity is unknown. Owing to the fact that the town- ship lines are so very vague that even the settlers do not always know in what township they reside, we will be pardoned if we have located any of the above mills in this township when they belong to some other.
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SPRINGS .- There are several mineral springs in this township, all of which are more or less valuable for medicinal purposes, and all are quite popular as pleasure and health resorts. The following list include them all.
PEARSON SPRINGS .- Beginning at the north-west corner, as it were, of the township, the first springs that we come to are the Pearson, which are located at the head of a lovely little valley which puts out from the north side of Scotts Valley, east of its union with the Blue Lake Canon. They lie about one mile from the road along Scotts Creek, and a road passes by them and on to Witter Springs. These springs were located by J. W. Pear- son in 1874, and the present proprietor, Mr. J. J. Kebert, purchased them in May, 1878. There are four springs at this place, and all of entirely differ- ent water. They proceed from a strata of rock about forty feet above the valley, on the eastern range of mountains, and are all within a distance of one hundred yards. Beginning at the south, the first one is an iron spring, and its presence is manifested strongly. There are no other minerals with it, in any quantities at least, and it is comparatively free from carbonic acid gas. The next to the north is a soda spring, but it is not so strong as many of the springs in the county. It is very palatable, having a goodly quan- tity of carbonic acid gas in it. Iron is one of the principal elements in this water, although it is characteristically a soda spring. The next one ap- proached as we pass to the north is a magnesia spring, the water of which is very palatable indeed. Carbonic acid gas and iron are present in this spring to quite a degree, also. The fourth and last spring is one of the great- est curiosities in Lake County. It is a white sulphur spring, the water of which is heavily charged with carbonic acid gas, and hence is tart and pleas- ant to the taste, and is, moreover, free from the characteristic gas of sulphur waters generally-sulphuretted hydrogen-which usually gives to this class of water the "rotten-egg smell" which most every one complains of. This water is a delightful beverage, and is enjoyed and appreciated by all the guests at the place.
There are five cottages here and a main hotel, also a barn that will accom- modate forty head of horses. The springs are thirteen miles north-west of Lakeport, and two miles east of Blue Lakes, and are reached by excellent roads from Lakeport, Upper Lake, Witter and Bartlett Springs, and from Ukiah. It is claimed for these springs that the water is good for catarrh, paralysis, kidney and liver troubles, rheumatism, dyspepsia, neuralgia, and scrofulous diseases. There is much level ground here, and many wide arch- ing shade trees, which furnishes an excellent camp ground. Game is abundant near at hand, while fish sport in the brook which courses through the grounds. Fruit and vegetables in a plentiful supply are near at hand. The hotel was erected in 1874. There has never been any analysis made of the waters of these springs.
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Upper Lake Township.
WITTER SPRINGS .- Passing on to the northward from Pearson Springs, we begin the ascent of the grade at the very door of the hotel, which leads over the ridge of mountains that divides Scotts Valley from Bachelor Val- ley. Up and up we go, every new turn in the road revealing increased beauty in the prospect. To the left of us lies the cañon, whose almost per- pendicular sides extend from the base of the valley to the mountain tops. As we swing around on some curve in the road we get a full view of the valley lying below us, and a goodly portion of Scotts Valley in addition. It is beautiful to behold, and we fain would linger to let it be impressed upon the tablets of our memory so that time could not erase it. The sum- mit is reached, and on the other side the scene is more enchanting if possible than on the one we have just been gazing upon. It is larger and grander at least, and embraces Bachelor and Upper Lake Valleys, with their beautiful farms and cottages, orchards, barns, and all that goes to make up a lovely rural landscape filled with happy and prosperous homes. Beyond them lies the lake shimmering in the sunlight, and beyond it all the grand mountains, range upon range, which just now are bathed in the radiant flood of sun- shine, mellowed by the lateness of the hour into sweet tinted bars of gold and amber. And far to the south-east, and closing up the vista in that direction, stands old Uncle Sam, proud monarch of them all. From our lofty vantage ground we see a hundred themes for the painter's skill and the poet's muse. Sweet land of radiant beauty !
Descending the grade, we come to the justly celebrated Witter Springs, which are located six miles from Upper Lake, on the stage road from Ukiah to Lakeport, in the most healthful part of Lake County, surrounded by romantic scenery, in full view of Clear Lake, and can be reached either by way of Cloverdale and Ukiah or by way of Calistoga and Lakeport. By way of the former route, the distance to San Francisco is one hundred and thirty-four miles. The springs are at the head of the south arm of Bachelor Valley and five hundred feet above the level of it and two thousand feet above the sea level.
These springs were discovered by Benjamin Burke in 1870, and in 1871 Dr. Dexter Witter and W. P. Radcliff purchased them of him. In 1872 they constructed the road leading to the springs, and during the following year they erected the hotel and opened the springs to the public. There are thirteen cottages here for the accommodation of guests, while the hotel, which has lately been enlarged, will accommodate sixty more. It is a delightful place for a resort, even if one is not sick. The scenery is grand, the atmosphere light and bracing and the cottages are sequestered in a grove of trees, which affords ample shade for all who may come to the springs. A noisy brook goes prattling by, and day and night its sweet song makes melodious music for all-one of nature's harps.
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The water at these springs is chiefly soda. There are four springs in all : Two soda, one magnesia, and one iron. None of these amount to very much, except the stronger one of the two soda. Below we give a qualita- tive analysis of the water of this spring. One gallon contains seven hundred and thirty-three and a half grains of solid constituents, as follows :
Carbonates of soda; chlorides of sodium and potassium ; small quanti- ties of sulphates ; traces of lime and magnesia, and a considerable quantity of borax.
The chlorides are strongly predominant, as is soon made evident to the drinker, the water tasting almost like brine till one is accustomed to it. It requires but a very little of this water to be efficacious, as but three glasses a day is the regular allowance. These waters will effect a cure of what is known as fits, which is a relief not afforded by any other mineral waters in the world. This water is excellent for the following complaints: Scrofula, cancer, salt rheum, tetter, scald head, white swelling, rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, fits and all affections of the heart, kidneys and liver. These springs are now the property of S. R. Emerson.
WHISKEY SPRING .- This is apparently one of nature's still-houses. The water has the reputation of causing the drinker to become tipsy, or rather, as it is expressed locally, and a term that all Californians will better appre- ciate, it makes them " rattle-weeded." It is quite probable that there is some rank mineral poison held in solution in this water, which, when intro- duced into the system, acts very much as does genuine whiskey, hence the name. This spring is located somewhere in the mountains, between Witter Springs and Blue Lakes. No analysis has ever been made of the water.
MITCHELL SPRINGS .- These springs lie north-west of Witter Springs about six miles, and at the head of the north arm of Bachelor Valley. They have never been really opened to the public, though they have many attractions naturally, and the water is excellent. They are visited yearly by parties of hunters, who wish to push further away from civilization than the ordinary places of resort.
BARTLETT SPRINGS .- This is doubtless one of the most favorite of all the health and pleasure resorts in Lake County. These springs are located on what is known as the middle fork of Cache Creek, in the north-eastern portion of the county. In 1870 Mr. Greene Bartlett, an old hunter, in pass- ing up this fork of Cache Creek, came upon the spring, and was attracted to it by its volume, and some characteristics of the taste of the water. He was suffering from a severe and prolonged attack of rheumatism, and he concluded to stop awhile and see if there were any virtues in the water. At the end of a couple of weeks he found that he had made rapid improve- ment. He then went out to the settlements, and got a party of fourteen,
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all afflicted one way or another, but mostly with rheumatism, and piloted them to his newly-found Bethesda. To their surprise they found the waters did all and even more than Mr. Bartlett in his enthusiasm had claimed for them.
Mr. Bartlett had now found out to a certainty that there were real virtues in the water, and he proceeded at once to locate upon the property. There are several springs in this vicinity, but not all on the Bartlett property, but all are accessible to guests at the hotel. The one farthest from the hotel is a gas spring, as it is called. Great volumes of carbonic acid gas escapes from this spring continually, causing the water to have every appearance of the ebullition of boiling water, yet no water runs away from this spring. This gas is so strong that birds and animals fall dead in passing over it, and it would soon kill a man. Visitors place their feet in to remove corns, bunions, etc.
To the south from the hotel a distance of two hundred yards, there are two ordinary soda springs, an iron and a magnesia spring. There is more or less of carbonic acid gas in all of this water. The soda and other springs in this series is quite palatable. Near by is a sulphur spring. It is cold, and not as much a favorite as the others are with the visitors. The main spring is a wonderful phenomena, and is well worthy a visit to the place just for the sake of seeing it alone. It is near the head of a lateral cañon, putting into the mountain to the east of the main cañon. It is now walled up with composition stone, and a pavement of the same material is laid around it for a distance of several feet. A jar-shaped chamber, about two feet in diameter and three feet high, is constructed directly over the spring, having outlets similar to the great fountains in the cities of the world. The volume of water is so great that quite large streams are flowing out of three sides of the chamber at once, while a pipe leads to the hotel, and one to the barreling and bottling house. It is estimated that the stream of the spring will flow fully three inches miners' measure.
This water is peculiar in that it does not taste much differently from ordinary spring water, and the presence of the mineral is hard to detect. The iron that is in it is shown by the colored deposit, but that is very small. The tufa formation is very light, but more of a borax nature than soda. The taste of the water is rather pleasant, but not strongly mineral at all hence it is generally a favorite with all who visit the springs from the first. This main spring is known as the Bartlett Spring, the others being only mere contingencies, as it were, and it is from this one that the most of the visitors use water.
There is quite a village around the spring comprising in all about one hundred buildings. Of these seventy-five are cottages, and the remainder are used for hotel, store, saloon and other purposes. In the hotel building, .
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which is a handsome structure, there are sixteen rooms, and in the cottages that are reserved for hotel purposes there are thirty-nine rooms, making fifty-five in all. Thus, with the cottages and hotel, a very large number of guests can be accommodated. Mr. Gordon had charge of the springs at first, and he was followed by Mr. W. W. Greene, now of Lakeport, who remained in charge for one year. Messrs. Long & Brown then had them for three years, and they were followed in 1876 by Mr. D. Alexander, who remained there till 1881, when Hon. J. C. Crigler assumed control.
The property belongs to Messrs. Greene Bartlett, Greene McMahon and C. R. Clarke. There is a store, a hotel, a saloon, livery stable, meat market, Wells, Fargo & Co.'s office and post-office at the place. The springs are reached either via Williams, in Colusa County, and thence by stage, or via Cloverdale in Sonoma County, and thence by stage. Visitors generally come in by one route and go out by the other, thus gaining a view of some of the finest scenery in California. Parties may reach Lakeport by way of Calistoga, and thence by stage, or come in to Upper Lake by way of Ukiah and there meet the Bartlett stage. The springs lie in a most lovely valley, surrounded on all sides with gigantic mountains. Game and fish are plentiful and the climate delightful.
ALLEN SPRINGS .- These springs are situated on the south fork of Cache Creek. They were located in 1871 by George Allen, and are owned at present by James D. Bailey, who purchased them in January, 1881. These health-giving fountains are situated about fifty miles west of Colusa, and three east of Bartlett Springs. They are accessible from the east by way of Williams, and from the west by way of Lakeport and Upper Lake by a daily line of stages, which passes over a romantic and beautiful country. For the accommodation of guests, twenty-one cottages have been erected on the grounds of the premises, and a hotel with a frontage of one hundred and twelve feet and two stories high graces the place.
This charming retreat has its walks shaded by native forest trees, through which meanders the cool and limpid waters of a mountain stream, teeming with trout, while the adjacent hills abound in game to tempt the conva- lescing invalid to healthful exercise. The air is pure, light and balmy, con- stantly reminding the sick that they are no longer in the noisome city or the malarial valley, and that this soft air with the healing waters are the choice gifts of God.
There are three mineral springs here-one soda, one white sulphur, and one chalybeate. The soda spring has been analyzed and found to contain the following ingredients :
Chloride of sodium ; chloride of magnesia; chloride of potassium ; bi- carbonate of magnesium ; bicarbonate of sodium ; bicarbonate of calcium ; sulphate of sodium ; phosphate of iron ; silica, and carbonic acid.
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Upper Lake Township.
This water is strongly aerated with carbonic acid gas, with the salts of sodium and magnesium predominating, while the relative amount of calcium present is small. The two other springs differ very materially from this one. One of them contains a larger amount of iron, less of the magnesium salts and the bicarbonate of sodium, and also less strongly aerated.
It is claimed for these springs that their water is good for kidney affec- tions, dyspepsia, rheumatism, dropsy, general debility, skin diseases, female complaints, ague, paralysis and erysipelas. It is also good as an appetizer and tonic. The altitude is one thousand eight hundred feet. There are mineral steam baths, mineral hot baths, and warm and cold baths in connec- tion with the hotel. There is a large dancing hall, billiard room, barber shop, and stable connected with the hotel. Postal, express and telegraphic facilities are provided right upon the premises. It is certainly a delightful place for one to spend a season either in search of pleasure or health.
BLUE LAKES .- This beautiful pleasure resort is located about twelve miles north-west of Lakeport, on the Ukiah road, in what is known as the Blue Lakes Canon. This canon forms a junction with Scotts Valley. Just at that point where the latter swings around to the east, the creek takes its final bearings for its course to the lake. We can give no better description of these gems of beauty than the following, written by Miss Frankie Jepson, who visited them in 1880:
" The lower one is separated from the other two like an estranged sister. The middle and upper ones are linked together, like the melodies of Beethoven, in deep, shoreless harmony. The banks are mountains standing up on nearly all sides straight and steep from their feet to their crests. The almost bottomless fathoms send up their sapphire and their blue; the haughty mountains throw down their royal green ; and above the reflection and refraction of shadow and sheen, we skim with dallying oar the smooth, bright romance up and down."
The lower one is small and shallow, except in places. There has been nothing done in the way of improvements around it. The upper ones are, perhaps, a mile and a half long, by from a quarter of a mile to a few rods in width. They are joined together by a narrow pass. The depth of these lakes is very great in places. The waters abound in fish of almost every representation of the finny tribes. At these upper lakes there is a fine hotel, which affords superior accommodations for visitors. A number of row boats are provided; and to be upon the bosom of those lakes in a boat is to be afloat in a sea of liquid pearl. Mr. Theodore Deming is the present proprietor.
There is a queer old Indian legend which attaches to the upper two of these lakes, but does not affect the lower one. The old Indians will tell
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you that a long time ago there resided in the mountains near these lakes a white fawn, which was the goddess of purity and innocence, and the people around the lake worshiped her, and that she dwelt here because of the re- markable purity of the waters of these lakes, of which she was accustomed to drink daily. The evil spirit saw this white fawn, and desired her to be his wife, but she, knowing how full of evil he was and how unhappy she would be living in his lodge with him, refused to unite her destiny with his. This enraged the evil spirit, and so he set about to revenge himself for the slight. He watched and saw that she always drank of the waters of the lake every day, so he assumed the form of a huge sea serpent and hid in the waters of the lake, and when the white fawn went down, as was her daily custom, to slake her thirst with the crystal waters of the limpid lake, she was startled to see the coiling, writhing form of a great monster in the water near her. She stopped to take one look at the hideous sight ere she fled to the mountain fastnesses for safety ; but that was a fatal look, for ere she could spring the serpent had lashed his tail out upon the shore and dealt her a deadly blow. Another and another followed in rapid succession, until the beautiful fawn lay dead upon the shore of the lovely lake. It is the old, old story of the Garden of Eden in another form, and strange that it is, yet it is so, all these stories represent the Evil One as coming off victo- rious, and he accomplishes it by subtlety. Who shall say where the fountain head lies whence sprung all of these legends, having such a remarkable similarity in almost all respects ? From that day to this no Indian has ever encamped upon the banks of those lakes, nor has he fished out of its waters. In fact all the generations agone have held those bodies of waters in holy horror. The early white settlers became quite strongly imbued with the idea of there being a sea serpent in these lakes, for it is stated in a paper published in Lakeport about 1866, that a man had had hooks of enormous proportions made and fastened with log-chains to a tree on the shore, which he had baited for the purpose of catching it.
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