The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens, Part 20

Author: Soule, Frank; Nisbet, Jim, joint author
Publication date: 1855
Publisher: New York, Appleton
Number of Pages: 866


USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens > Part 20


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" The laws under which we act oblige each officer, without regard to his station, to advance, with his utmost zeal, the cause of education. I, there- fore, strongly urge upon you the propriety of adopting measures by which the children of the high, the low, the rich and the poor of this district, can


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have equal advantages of drinking freely at the fountain of primary know- ledge ; and it is to be hoped that our territory, which is ere long to be erected into a State, and placed by the side of her elder sisters of the Union, will show to them that she fully appreciates education as the only safeguard of our republican institutions; that the liberties of the people are based upon their intelligence, and that in this respect, as well as in all others, California will present herself to the world a model Republic, without spot or blemish.


" JOHN W. GEARY,


" First Alcalde of the District of San Francisco. Cal."


APOLLO SALMON


Prison-brig Euphemia, and Store-ship Apollo.


Prefect Hawes also ably addressed the council, chiefly ex- plaining the duties of prefects, which are, he says, "to take care of public order and tranquillity ; to publish and circulate, with- out delay, observe, enforce, and cause to be observed and en- forced, the laws, throughout their respective districts ; and for the execution of these duties they are clothed with certain pow- ers, which are clearly specified and defined. They are particu- larly enjoined to attend to the subject of public instruction, and see that common schools be not wanting in any of the towns of


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FIRST PROTESTANT CHURCH.


their respective districts. They are also required to propose measures for the encouragement of agriculture and all branches of industry, instruction, and public beneficence, and for the exe- cution of new works of public utility and the repair of old ones. They constitute the ordinary channel of communication between the governor and the authorities of the district, and are to com- municate all representations coming from the latter, accompanied with the necessary information."


The first money appropriated by the ayuntamiento was for the purchase of the brig Euphemia, which was converted into a prison for the confinement of criminals. This was the first jail established in the place where convicted rogues could be kept in custody. We give a correct representation of the Euphemia. The store-ship Apollo, which is seen on the illustration, was an- chored in the cove, some distance from the beach. It was subse- quently used for a lodging-house and drinking-saloon. As the city improvements progressed, lots were piled, capped, and filled in on the flat covered by the waters of the bay, far beyond where the Apollo lay ; and strangers visiting the city were astonished to see the hull of a large ship located in the very heart of the city, surrounded on all sides with large blocks of substantial stone and brick edifices.


AUGUST 5th .- The first Protestant Church in California was dedicated by the Baptists. At this time the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, and Methodists, were taking steps to build places of worship for themselves, while most of these denominations had already established sabbath-schools. The Roman Catholics had also erected a church in Vallejo-street, at which divine service was regularly performed on Sundays. The Rev. T. D. Hunt, whose appointment was noticed before, officiated at the chaplaincy ; and Mr. Lyman, a Mormon preacher, was holding forth at the Institute, on Portsmouth Square.


AUGUST 6th, 8th, and 11th .- The ayuntamiento meet, take the oaths of office, and organize and distribute themselves into various committees, for the purpose of systematically conducting the affairs of the town. On the 13th, they appointed the follow- ing municipal officials :-


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ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.


Frank Turk, Secretary. William M. Eddy, City Surreyor. P. C. Landers, Collector of Taxes. And on the 20th of the month,


Dr. T. R. Palmer, City Physician.


Jonathan Cade, Sergeant-at-Arms. Malachi Fallon, Captain of Police. A. G. Peachy, City Attorney. John E. Townes, Sheriff.


Benj. Burgoyne, City Treasurer.


*


### ##


BEAULIEU. DEL


View of San Francisco in 1849, from head of California street.


AUGUST 27th .- The " Pacific News," a San Francisco tri- weekly newspaper, published by Messrs. Falkner and Leland, makes its first appearance. This paper was the second in San Francisco at this period, and continued until 1851, when, after having several times changed its proprietors and political com- plexion, it expired. The only other newspaper in California was the " Placer Times," published weekly at Sacramento ; but which merged into a daily, and was afterwards issued in San Francisco.


The ayuntamiento this day issue an ordinance (subsequently amended and re-issued) for raising a revenue for municipal pur- poses, chiefly by means of a percentage duty on the sale of mer- chandise and real estate, and heavy license duties imposed on those engaged in different kinds of business. This was the be- ginning of those steps by which a very great revenue was after- wards collected.


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STEAM NAVIGATION COMMENCED.


SEPTEMBER 1st .- The convention of delegates to frame a State Constitution met at Monterey ; and on the 4th instant, chose Robert Semple president, and Capt. Wm. G. Marcy secre- tary. The Constitution was finished and signed by the delegates on the 13th of October.


SEPTEMBER 10th .- The first "Merchants' Exchange " was projected a short time before this date ; and at a public meeting of citizens, held to-day, the scheme was approved of and sub- scribed to by a considerable number of merchants and others. The undertaking, however, after going on some time, seems to have been dropped ; and in November we find Mr. E. E. Dunbar opening a subscription "Merchants' Exchange and Reading Room" in Washington street, which was patronized by most mercantile people in the town.


OCTOBER 26th .- Steam navigation is beginning to be adopted in the bay and its upper waters. Just two years before this time Wm. A. Leidesdorff had attempted to run a small steam- boat, about the size of a ship's jolly-boat, which had been pro- cured from the Russian settlement at Sitka. But this vessel, in February, 1848, was sunk in one of the severe northers that visit the bay ; and no steps had been taken to renew the experi- ment until some time after the gold discoveries made its success certain. Then speculators sent out many proper vessels from the Atlantic States. The " Pioneer," a little iron steamer, brought out in pieces from Boston, sailed upon the waters of the Sacramento River about a month before this date ; and, being the first that had penetrated so far into the interior, deserves the title she had assumed. On the 9th instant, the small iron steamer " Mint" had a trial trip, which was highly satisfactory. She was intended to ply between San Francisco and the towns on the upper waters. This day the steam-propeller " McKim"


left for Sacramento. Before this time voyages across the bay and up the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers were made in schooners and launches. These vessels were often detained a week or ten days in sailing that distance, which a steamer now accomplishes in half a day. Both the steamers mentioned sailed every alternate day from San Francisco, and on the intervening days left Sacramento for the return passage. The fares at first


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were thirty dollars cabin, and twenty dollars deck. If berths were used, five dollars extra. Meals on board, two dollars each. The well known steamer "Senator" was shortly afterwards placed on the same station, and the little " Mint" withdrawn and placed on another. This was the beginning of a very great increase of the transit trade of the bay. Later years have sent numerous large, well appointed, and beautiful steam-vessels, which have still further developed the interior water traffic, and added immensely to the resources of the country.


OCTOBER 21st .- Mr. Nathan Spear died of a disease of the heart. He was forty-seven years of age, and one of the oldest inhabitants of the place. ' This gentleman was partner to Mr. Jacob P. Leese, who built the first house and formed the first mercantile establishment in Yerba Buena. The death of Mr. Spear was much regretted by the citizens, and the flags of the ships in the bay were hung at half mast when it was announced.


OCTOBER 25th .- The first Democratic Meeting ever held in California assembled this evening at Dennison's Exchange. The attendance was so large that the meeting was compelled to ad- journ to the public square. The officers chosen were :- Presi- dent, Col. John W. Geary ; Vice-Presidents, Dr. McMillan and Messrs. O. P. Sutton, E. V. Joyce, Thomas J. Agnew, John Mc Vickar, Annis Merrill, and W. H. Jones ; Secretaries, Messrs. Joseph T. Downey, J. Ross Brown, Daniel Cronin, and John A. McGlynn. Hon. Wm. Van Vorhies delivered a spirited ad- dress, and a long series of resolutions expressive of democratic principles were adopted. The chief object of the assembly was to effect a party organization previous to the approaching State elections.


OCTOBER 29th .- Rowe's Olympic Circus, which was in a large tent, opened to a numerous attendance of spectators. This was the first public announcement of the dramatic or spectacle kind in San Francisco. The " house" could hold from twelve to fif- teen hundred ; and the prices of admission were, three dollars to the pit, five dollars to the boxes, and fifty-five dollars for a pri- vate box. Two theatres had some time previously been an- nounced, and were at this time in course of formation.


NOVEMBER 13th .- Ballot taken on the Constitution, and


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STATE ELECTION.


election for State officers. Party politics were beginning to in- fluence voters in the choice of candidates. The election, how- ever, was conducted in a quiet and orderly manner. In San Francisco two thousand and fifty-one voted for the Constitution, and five against it. Over the whole country the votes were twelve thousand and sixty-four for, and eight hundred and eleven against. These numbers were much below what had been anticipated, partly on account of a mistake in the voting tickets at San Francisco, and partly from the heavy rains over the country, which prevented many voters from attending the polling places. Perhaps, also, after the first excitement was over, when the convention closed, the people became indifferent on the sub- ject, and neglected the duty of voting. The following is a list of the State officers, senators, and representatives in Congress, first elected under the Constitution ; also, the members of the first Legislature of California (to meet at San José), elected by the citizens of San Francisco.


Governor.


Peter H. Burnett.


Lieutenant Governor. John McDougal.


United States Senators.


John C. Fremont,


Wm. M. Gwin.


Representatives in Congress.


George W. Wright, Edward Gilbert.


Secretary of State.


Treasurer. Comptroller.


Wm. Van Vorhies.


Richard Roman. J. S. Houston.


Attorney General.


Surveyor General.


Edward J. C. Kewen.


Charles J. Whiting.


Chief Justice.


Associate Justices.


S. C. Hastings.


J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett.


State Senators.


Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett.


Assembly.


Wm. Van Vorhies, Edmund Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson, J. A. Patterson.


NOVEMBER 26th .- The first habitation on Rincon Point, erected by Dr. John H. Gihon. It was an India-rubber tent,


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ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.


and occupied the site of the present U. S. Marine Hospital. The entire hill was covered with gnarled oaks and thick underbrush. There were at that time but several buildings between the Rin- con and California street, while the waters of the bay washed the foot of precipitous sand-hills the greater portion of the distance, which rendered it necessary for the pedestrian, when the tide was in, to wade up to his waist in the water in passing from the city to the point, he being compelled to follow the line of the beach. Those hills have since been transplanted into the cove, and made substantial building lots, where large vessels were then anchored.


NOVEMBER 29th .- The governor had appointed this as a day of solemn thanksgiving and prayer for the new State of Califor- nia, and as such it was very generally observed.


DECEMBER 12th .- Some time previous to this date, the busi- ness of the alcalde had so greatly increased, as to render necessary the establishment of another court ; and upon application made to the governor, he authorized William B. Almond, Esq., to open and hold a Court of First Instance, with civil jurisdiction only, and that in cases involving sums exceeding one hundred dollars. Judge Almond accordingly organized his court in the old school- house on the plaza ; and the novel and summary manner in which he conducted his business and disposed of sometimes very important cases, was a source of as much merriment to some and mortification to others as any thing else then transpiring in the town. Many a wag who was fond of fun, and had nothing better to do, would spend an hour in the court-room to enjoy the satis- faction of observing the chagrin of upstart attorneys, toward whose oratorical eloquence and legal knowledge the judge was wont to exhibit the most mortifying indifference. His Honor, at whose expense many a good anecdote has been told, had a sovereign contempt for Buncombe speeches, legal technicalities, learned opinions, and triumphantly cited precedents. He was a man of quick discernment and clear judgment ; and his opinion once formed, and that sometimes occurred before even the first witness was fully heard, his decision was made. Nothing further need be said. His mind was as unalterable as were the laws of the Medes and Persians. Jury trials were then of rare occurrence, and the judge decided the cases that came before him ; and


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JUDGE ALMOND'S COURT.


there can be no reason to doubt, that his decisions generally were far more just and equitable than those more recently given in courts claiming greater legal knowledge, where learned judges gravely occupy the bench, and tampered juries are influenced more by bribes than testimony. On this day a case was tried in which a physician had sued the captain of a ship for medical at- tendance upon sick sailors during a voyage around Cape Horn. The prosecutor claimed five hundred dollars. A number of wit- nesses were called on both sides. The judge sat upon a rickety old chair, with his feet perched higher than his head upon a small mantel over the fire-place, in which a few damp sticks of wood were keeping each other warm by the aid of a very limited sup- ply of burning coals. His Honor employed himself in paring his corns, or scraping his nails, while the "learned counsel " briefly presented the case, and called the first witness, whom the judge instructed; without changing his position, to tell all he knew about the matter, in as few words and as quickly as possible,- at the same time charging the lawyers not to interrupt him with questions. This witness was no sooner done, and he had but little to say, when the counsel called another ; but His Honor in- formed him that it was unnecessary to pursue the inquiry fur- ther-the witness had told a plain, straightforward story-the court understood the merits of the matter, and its mind was made up. " But," says a lawyer, "you will at least hear us speak to the points of law ?" " That would be a great waste of time, which is very precious," replied the judge ; " I award the plaintiff one hundred and fifty dollars. Mr. Clerk, what is the next case ?" Thus in less than fifteen minutes a case was. equitably disposed of, which in an ordinary court of law might have occupied at least as many days ; and in the course of the day, as much business was despatched in the same summary manner, as would occupy most courts an ordinary quarterly term. In the instance related the counsel for the plaintiff pock- eted seventy-five dollars of the award, giving his client the bal- ance, who was thus well paid for all the services he had rendered. Young lawyers, however, were not pleased with this summary method of disposing of business. To these the opportunity of making a speech, the tendency of which is usually to render a


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ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.


clear case obscure, though it doubtless serves to display the ex- tent of their wisdom and intelligence, is of quite as much conse- quence as meat and drink to other people. They could not live without it. Hence, Judge Almond, who deprived them of this exquisite enjoyment, was no favorite with them. On one occa- sion after a case had been decided, in the usual way, the defeated attorney commenced reading aloud from a book he held in his hand. The judge abruptly turned round, and reminded him that judgment had been rendered, and all further remarks were use- less. "I am aware of that," said the sprightly lawyer ; " but I thought I would simply read a passage or two to convince you what an old fool Blackstone was." The anecdote was not bad, whether well applied or not, and even though it lacked origi- nality.


The greater part of the business of Judge Almond's court was of a similar character, viz., the settling of claims against owners and masters of ships, instituted by their passengers or crews ; and as the decisions were generally against the defendants, it was often maliciously remarked that the judgments of the court were always given against those who were best able to pay the costs. This might have been true, though not in the sense intended ; for in these cases, the parties most competent to pay were almost in- variably the parties at fault. It was a well-known fact, that during the first great rush of emigration to California, the most shameless impositions were practised upon passengers by shipping merchants and their agents. Vessels that had long been consid- ered unseaworthy were hastily fitted up, without proper accom- , modations or provisions, and sent on a most dangerous voyage, without even a reasonable expectation in some instances of their reaching their place of destination, with passengers who had been solemnly promised every needed comfort. And, when at sea, they first discovered how they had been deceived, and began to proclaim their grievances, they were merely laughed and scoffed at by the brutal officers appointed (because of their peculiar qualifications for that purpose) to carry out the designs of their employers. These men had practised similar impositions with impunity often before ; for how or where could a poor sailor or emigrant passenger obtain satisfaction for wrongs suffered at sea,


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FIRST GREAT FIRE.


when the courts, even if appealed to, were so tardy in their movements that the witnesses disappeared before an investigation could take place, or the complainant was subjected to expenses which he had no possible means to defray ? Owners and mas- ters of vessels never supposed that in California, where every thing was in a rude and unsettled condition, they would be pun- ished for offences which had been winked at, if not sanctioned, by the legal authorities in the oldest and best regulated commu- nities ; hence, they were more reckless, bold and insolent than ever in sending their almost worthless ships around Cape Horn. But they were mistaken. Suits, well founded, were constantly brought against them by the passengers and crews of vessels ar- riving at San Francisco, and heavy fines and costs imposed for the practice of mean impositions and tyrannical abuses ; until at length, Judge Almond's court became such a terror to merchants and captains of ships, that they would sooner compromise, even at a sacrifice, a disputed point with a sailor or passenger, than submit the case to the judgment of His Honor.


DECEMBER 14th .- An edition of the " Alta California" is published tri-weekly ; the old weekly issue being also continued.


DECEMBER 24th .- This morning, about six o'clock, the awful cry of fire was raised in the city, and in a few hours property valued at more than a million of dollars was totally destroyed. The fire began in Dennison's Exchange, about the middle of the eastern side of the plaza, and spreading both ways, consumed nearly all that side of the square, and the whole line of build- ings on the south side of Washington street, between Montgoni- ery and Kearny streets. This was the first of the great fires which devastated San Francisco ; and it was speedily to be fol- lowed by still more extensive and disastrous occurrences of a similar character. Something of the kind had long been antici- pated by those who considered the light, combustible materials of which the whole town was constructed. That the flames did not spread further was in a great measure owing to the judicious steps early taken by the municipal authorities in pulling down, or blowing up with gunpowder, the houses at the extremity of the conflagration. Scarcely were the ashes cold when prepara- tions were made to erect new buildings on the old sites ; and in


16


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ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.


several cases within a few days, and in all, within a few weeks, the place was covered as densely as before with houses of every kind. These, like those that had just been destroyed, and like nearly all around, were chiefly composed of wood and canvas, and presented fresh fuel to the great coming conflagrations.


HHH BOOKER


Dennison's Exchange, and Parker House, before the fire, December, 1849.


The first fire of any consequence that had previously oc- curred in the place broke out in January of this year, when the " Shades Hotel" was destroyed. In June following, the ship " Philadelphia" was burned in the harbor, as preparations were being made for her sailing to the Sandwich Islands.


CHAPTER IX.


1849.


Increase of population .- No proper homes .- Character of the houses .- Condition of the streets,- Employments of the people .- Every thing in apparent confusion ; still nohody idle, and much business accomplished .- How the inhabitants lived .- Money rapidly made and freely spent .- Gambling .- Shipping deserted .-- Extravagantly high prices obtained for cvery thing .- Rents and wages .- The mines the source of all the wealth .- Destitution, sickness and death .- Increase of crime -Aspeet of the Plaza .- Mixed character of the inhabitants .- The Post-office .- A pleasant prospeet.


THE population of the State, and of San Francisco in particular, had been largely increasing during the last six months. Between the 1st of January, 1849, and the 30th of June following, it was estimated that fifteen thousand had been added to the population of the country ; of which number nearly ten thousand came by sea, and landed at San Francisco. Only about two hundred of these were females. The next half year gave an average of four thousand immigrants per month, by sea alone, about five hundred of whom, in all, were females ; and the whole of which numbers landed at San Francisco. In the early part of 1849, the arrivals were principally from Chili, Mexico, and other countries on the Pacific coasts of America ; but later in the year, an immense number of Americans came direct from the Atlantic States, around Cape Horn, or by way of Panama, while many foreigners also arrived from China and from various parts of Europe. Hitherto the departures were comparatively few. Altogether nearly forty thousand immigrants landed at San Francisco during 1849. Besides that great number, some three thousand or four thousand seamen deserted from the many hundred ships lying in the bay. Probably two-thirds of all these proceeded to the mines, or to various parts of the interior ; but, on the other hand, numerous fortunate diggers, or those who had tried gold digging and been disappointed, visited town, to spend their gains, recruit


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ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.


their health, or follow out some new pursuit there. It will be remembered also that somewhere about thirty thousand Ameri- can immigrants had reached California across the plains, many of whom ultimately settled in San Francisco. Therefore, it may be reasonably estimated, that, at the close of 1849, the population of the town numbered, at least, twenty, and probably nearer


.


Muddy Streets.


twenty-five thousand souls. A very small proportion of these were females-a still smaller one, children of either sex ; while the vast majority of inhabitants were adult males, in the early prime of manhood. This circumstance naturally tended to give a peculiar character to the aspect of the place and habits of the people.


There was no such thing as a home to be found. Scarcely even a proper house could be seen. Both dwellings and places of business were either common canvas tents, or small rough board shanties, or frame buildings of one story. Only the great


!


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EMPLOYMENTS OF THE PEOPLE.


gambling saloons, the hotels, restaurants, and a few public build- ings and stores had any pretensions to size, comfort or elegance. The site on which the town is built was then still covered with numberless sand-hills. The streets were therefore uneven and ir- regular. By the continued passage of men, and of horses and drays with building materials and goods, while the rainy season (which commenced earlier than usual, and was remarkably severe) was shedding torrents from the clouds, the different thoroughfares were soon so cut up as to become almost, if not quite impassable. Indeed both horse, or mule and dray were sometimes literally swallowed up in the mud, while their owner narrowly escaped a similar fate. The town authorities caused numberless cart loads of brushwood and limbs of trees to be cut from the surrounding hills, and thrown into the streets ; but these only answered a limited and temporary purpose. The difficulty could not thus be remedied. Nobody troubled himself to remove any rubbish from the way ; but inmates of tents and houses satisfied them- selves with placing a few planks, tobacco-boxes, bags of coffee, barrels of spoiled provisions, or any other available object, across and along the worst parts of the roads, to enable them safely to reach their own dwellings. It was not for every body, however, to attempt to navigate these perilous places, or hope to keep on the narrow, slippery, unsteady, and often interrupted path which spanned the untathomed abysses of mud and water which lay on all sides. Lanterns were indispensable to pedestrians at night, and even in daylight not a few would lose their footing, and find it difficult to extricate themselves from their unpleasant predica- ments.




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