USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens > Part 22
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The every-day aspect of the plaza and streets was of the most curious and interesting kind. Take the plaza, on a fine day, for a picture of the people. All races were represented. There were hordes of long pig-tailed, blear-eyed, rank-smelling Chinese, with their yellow faces and blue garbs ; single dandy black fellows, of nearly as bad an odor, who strutted as only the negro can strut,
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in holiday clothes and clean white shirt ; a few diminutive fiery- eyed Malays, from the western archipelago, and some handsome Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands ; jet-black, straight featured, Abyssinians ; hideously tattooed New Zealanders ; Feejee sailors and even the secluded Japanese, short, thick, clumsy, ever-bow- ing, jacketed fellows ; the people of the many races of Hindoo land ; Russians with furs and sables ; a stray, turbaned, stately Turk or two, and occasionally a half naked shivering Indian ; mul- titudes of the Spanish race from every country of the Americas, partly pure, partly crossed with red blood,-Chilians, Peruvians and Mexicans, all with different shades of the same swarthy com- plexion, black-eyed and well-featured, proud of their beards and moustaches, their grease, dirt, and eternal gaudy serapes or darker cloaks ; Spaniards from the mother country, more dignified, polite and pompous than even their old colonial brethren ; "greasers," too, like them; great numbers of tall, goat-chinned, smooth- cheeked, oily-locked, lank-visaged, tobacco-chewing, large-limbed and featured, rough, care-worn, careless Americans from every State of the Union, dressed independently in every variety of garb, not caring a fig what people thought of them, but determined to " do the thing handsomely," and "go ahead ;" fat, conceited, comfortable Englishmen, who pretended to compete in shrewdness with the subtle Yankee-as if it were not the "manifest destiny" of Jonathan, every where, but especially on his own ground, to outshine John ! Then there were bands of gay, easy-principled, philosophical Germans, Italians and Frenchmen of every cut and figure, their faces covered with hair, and with strange habiliments on their persons, and among whom might be particularly remark- ed numbers of thick-lipped, hook-nosed, ox-eyed, cunning, oily Jews. Among this vast motley crowd scarcely could two hats be found alike in material, size and shape ; scarcely could two men be found otherwise dressed alike. The long-legged boot, with every variety of colored top, the buckled-up trousers, serapes or cloaks, pea-jackets and broad-brimmed or slouched hats and glazed caps, were perhaps the commonest articles of dress. The fortunate miner with his dirty garments and hirsute face, could be readily distinguished from all others. He cared not to dress or cleanse himself properly, till the bars and gambling saloons had been
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THE POST-OFFICE.
duly visited, and his hard won gains were spent. Then did he shake, shave and wash himself, and start again for the golden placers.
The eye was delighted with the varieties of costume, and more readily distinguished the wearers ; while the ear was only con- founded with the babble of unknown, and to it harsh, guttural and meaningless sounds which flowed from every mouth, and where all alike talked loudly, and many furiously gesticulated. Thus the people passed in pairs or in crowds-they loitered, stood still, and moved on again, while other parties jostled beside and around them. A horse or a bullock breaking loose would dash along the way, and make a momentary struggle and flight ; but soon again the scene resumed its old appearance. On two, if not three sides of the plaza, were the open doors of the "hells" of San Francisco, where gamblers, and others for amusement, passed out and in during the whole day. On the other portions stood hotels, stores and offices, the custom-house and courts of law, all thronged with numerous visitors. The little open space which was left by the crowds we have been describing, was occupied by a multitude of nondescript objects, by horses, mules and oxen drag- ging burdens along, by cars and carriages of various kinds, boys at play, stalls with sweetmeats, newspapers, prints, toys and other trifling articles of merchandise. At times a few Californians or some foreigners would appear on prancing steeds, the horses ca- parisoned with gaudy harness and brightly-colored saddle-cloths, while little bells jingled as they moved along. The riders wore strange leathern aprons before the legs, huge spurs on the heels, and perhaps had a cloak picturesquely thrown across their shoul- ders. Occasionally, too, even at this early period, the crowds would make way for the passage of a richly dressed woman, sweep- ing along, apparently proud of being recognized as one of frail character, or several together of the same class, mounted on spirited horses, and dashing furiously by, dressed in long riding skirts, or what was quite as common, in male attire.
We cannot leave this part of our subject without alluding to the scenes that daily occurred at the post-office, which was situa- ted at the corner of Pike and Clay streets. Every body, of course, was anxiously expecting letters from home ; and every body has-
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tened to look after them. The post-office was but a small build- ing, and could neither accommodate many assistants and clerks inside, nor afford much standing-room to make inquiries without. When, therefore, soon after the arrival of the mail from the At- lantic States, which occurred but once a month, people came for their wished-for letters, exhibitions of an interesting character
GARRET HOUSE.
LESLIETE
The Post Office, corner of Pike and Clay streets.
were sure to transpire. To avoid riots and confusion, several reg- ular lines were formed from the delivery windows, at the end of which applicants for letters took places as they arrived. So anx- ious were many to receive their epistles, that they posted them- selves in the evening of one day to be early at the window on the morning of the next, standing all night in the mud, with a heavy rain pouring down upon their heads. The lines extended a great distance down Clay street to the plaza, and along Pike street, even across Sacramento street to the tents among the chapparel. Hours
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THE POST-OFFICE.
therefore, would elapse, before it came to one's turn to reach the window. To save such delay, sometimes people would employ and handsomely pay others to preserve places for them, which they would occupy, in room of their assistants, when they were approach- ing the loop-holes where the delivery clerks stood. Ten and twenty dollars were often paid for accommodation in this way. Indeed, many clever persons made large sums regularly by such work, by securing good places in the line early, never intending to seek letters for themselves, but only to sell their right of position to some richer man who was in haste, and regarded more his time than money. Some of these eager applicants had not heard from their far distant homes for many long months, and their anxious solicitude was even painful. It was therefore exceedingly distress- ing to mark the despondency with which many would turn away upon hearing from the delivery clerks the oft-repeated and much- dreaded sentence, " There is nothing here for you." On the other hand, it was equally pleasing to observe the cheerful and triumph- ant smile, not unfrequently accompanied with a loud exclamation of joy, that would light up the countenance of the successful appli- cant, who hastens from the window, and as soon as he can force a passage through the crowd, tears open and commences to read the more than welcome letter, every word of which awakens in his mind some tender reminiscence. He is now communing with the dearest idols of his heart. He knows no feelings but those of kindness and affection. The lines upon which his eyes are rivet- ed, were written perhaps by an absent wife, and they have made him already a better man than he was an hour before. She is describing the sadness of the solitude his absence has occasioned, and urging him with all a true woman's fondness, to hasten back to the home which needs but his presence to be one of unmingled happiness. She tells him of their innocent children-of their im- proving loveliness-and how she has taught them in their daily prayers to lisp their absent father's name. Look close into the reader's face, and the nature of his emotions will not be mistaken. There is an unusual twitching of the muscles of the mouth, a growing dimness of the eyes, and tears are rapidly tracing down the furrows of his sunburnt cheeks. He is too much absorbed in his interesting occupation to know or care that he is an object of
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curious observation. What matters it to him what others think of his apparent weakness ? It is a weakness of which he need not be ashamed. He at length carefully folds the paper and carries it to his comfortless abode, where he reads it over and over again, until by constant handling, and the tears that fall upon it, its characters become illegible. That night does not find him in the gambling-house, nor elsewhere in search of amusement ; but in his own wretched chamber, he is silently communing in spirit with the loved ones at home. Such scenes were of hourly occurrence, and tended to exhibit the better portion of human nature, which neither the thirst for gold nor feverish excitement of the place could entirely destroy.
Turning from these busy scenes and ascending a neighboring height, the wearied spectator beheld one of the most peaceful prospects and pleasant sights of the world. It was winter by the calendar ; but the winters of California are the springs and early suminers of less favored lands in northern latitudes. Beneath was the little pandemonium he had left, where the devil-inspired worshippers of mammon burrowed in, and out, and about, holes and huts of canvas and wood ; but the noise of whose never-ceas- ing labors reached not his ears. Beyond the narrow limits of the town were the calm waters of the bay, on which floated, swan- like, hundreds of trim and well-proportioned ships, all motionless, and deserted by their crews. Farther out was the high lying island of Yerba Buena, green to the summit. Beyond it lay the mountains of Contra Costa, likewise arrayed in verdant robes, on the very tops of which flourished groups of huge redwood trees ; while far in the distance towered the gray head of Monte Diablo. The eye wandered to the northern and southern extremities of the bay, and still gazed on green hills, smooth waters and pictu- resque islands. It turned oceanward, and saw the Golden Gate studded with deep laden ships inward bound. The grand northern shores of the strait rose boldly and brokenly to the height of nearly three thousand feet, while the lower coast oppo- site was equally beautiful from the freshness of its fields and bushes, in the midst of which, and in the most beautiful spot embraced in the entire view, quietly nestles the presidio, now the solitary habitation of a small detachment of United States
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A PLEASANT PROSPECT.
soldiery. The great Pacific might be dimly seen beneath the dense veil of mist that hung miles out at sea opposite the Gate. To the west and south-west the spectator next looked, and ad- mired the Blue Mountain and the Pass that sheltered the quiet
The Presidio of San Francisco.
valley of the mission, and the long ridges of the Sierra San Bru- no, their green color sinking into a faint blue as they were seen more distantly. Overhead was a sky as blue and as beautiful as imagination could picture ; the air was fresh and balmy ; the earth beneath one's feet, soft and fragrant with new herbage and flowering shrubs ; while the life-giving sun shed over all its own radiance and joy. All was clear and sharp-defined ; all was tran- quil and motionless, except the flight of innumerable white and gray-winged gulls, that soared and fluttered among the deserted shipping in the cove before the town.
CHAPTER X.
1850.
Great sale of water lots .- An election day .- Newspapers .- Approval by the ayuntamiento of the city charter, and limits of San Francisco .- Squatter difficulty at Rincon Point .- Political meeting on Portsmouth Square .- The Colton grants .- First county election .- Col. John C. Hayes elected Sheriff .- City Charter adopted by the State Legislature .- First election under the City Charter .- Changes in the Common Council.
JANUARY 3d .- A great sale by the municipal authorities, of four hundred and thirty-four water lots, which brought $635,130. This sale had been ordered by the ayuntamiento by a resolution passed on the 3d of October, 1849, in accordance with a procla- mation of General Kearny, directing three months' notice to have been previously given.
JANUARY 8th .- An election was held for members of the legislature, alcaldes and ayuntamiento. The interest on these occasions increased with the population, and the election of to- day was the most exciting that had yet been held. The weather was exceedingly unpleasant, the wind blowing a gale, and the rain pouring down in torrents. The streets were covered with mud and water so as to render them almost impassable. Still the neighborhood of the polls was crowded during the entire day with men and boys, zealous as they well could be in their endeavors to promote the public welfare. It is one of the glorious conse- quences of our republican institutions, that at such times, so many worthy people are always to be found, utterly regardless of their personal interests, and so entirely devoted to the general good. Although the excitement ran unusually high, the day passed off without disturbance, and much good humor was ex- hibited by the conflicting parties. The voters were numerous ; every citizen of the United States being entitled to the elective franchise, and almost all who were here, from every part of the
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AN ELECTION DAY.
world, claimed to be American citizens. The way to the polls, for a considerable distance, on either side, was completely blocked up by roughly dressed men, who thrust their favorite tickets into the hands of every new comer, with loud exclamations in behalf of the parties for whom they were working. "Here's for Geary, and the old council !" cries one, "Geary and the old council for ever !" "For ever is a long day," says another ; "rotation in office, is my doctrine. The old council has made money enough. Let's give a new one a chance at the public crib !" "The old ones are so fat they can't eat any more !" exclaims a third ; "we had better keep them where they are !" "We have had the old council long enough !" vociferates a stout six-footer, wading up to his waist in the mud : " I go for a new council, side-walks, and clean streets!" "You do, do you ? " replies a wag : " then I guess you will have to go an infernal long ways to find them !" " We want another yuntermenter," bawls out a youngster in a red shirt and tarpaulin hat, and resembling a drowned rat more than an independent voter :- "we want another yuntermenter, and here's the ticket for um !" "It's a gutterminty that ye want ?" replies a brawny Irishman ; " then take it, and good luck till ye !" giving the luckless wight a toss that sent him sprawling into the gutter overhead in water : "I am thinking ye won't want another gutterminty soon, any how !" With much difficulty the polling desk was reached, where other scenes no less amusing were trans- piring. Around the judges and inspectors were an eager and ex- cited crowd, some endeavoring to vote and others to prevent them. "I challenge that man's vote," cries a bystander, as a simple Sandwich Islander, almost as dark as an African, offered his ticket. "Then we must swear him !" says the judge, and the usual oath was administered. " Where were you born ?" was the inquiry. "In New York !" whispered a prompter, and the answer was given accordingly. " Where did you come from last ?" " New York," was again the reply. "Where was your father born ?" "New York." "In what street did you live ?" " New York." "Where is New York ?" the judge next inquired. This was too much for the poor fellow. He knew as much of the locality and streets of the invisible world as he did of New York. His prompter, who had brought him there to vote, endeavored
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to instruct him, but without success. His impatient challenger at length exclaims : "Turn him out, he is a Kanaka !" and the vote was rejected. Another and another pressed forward, and similar questions and just as honest answers were given, and many a vote was polled, to the right of depositing which the elector was no more entitled than the poor Kanaka. Still the election proceeded, and notwithstanding the interest and excite- ment manifested, the best sort of feeling was preserved through- out. The polls were closed early in the evening, and the judges announced the following gentlemen elected to the offices named. The heaviest ballot cast was in favor of Col. John W. Geary, who received 3,425 votes :-
State Senator .- David C. Broderick.
Member of Assembly .- Samuel J. Clarke.
First Alcalde .- John W. Geary.
Second Alcalde .- Frank Turk.
Ayuntamiento .- A. J. Ellis, Talbot H. Green, Wm. M. Stewart, W. H. Davis, Samuel Brannan, James S. Graham, Frank Tilford, F. C. Gray, J. Hagan, M. Crooks, A. M. Van Nostrand, and Hugh C. Murray.
JANUARY 22d .- The " Alta California" is changed into a daily newspaper, being the first of the kind that has appeared in California. The weekly issue is likewise continued. The day following, the "Journal of Commerce" was started as a daily paper ; and about six weeks later, the "Pacific News" took a similar form. The "San Francisco Daily Herald" came into existence on the first of June, and became a very popular journal. On the first of August following, the "Evening Picayune" also made its appearance. The latter was the fifth daily but the first evening paper. The "Courier" and the "Balance " followed soon after, and subsequently many other journals have been de- veloped in San Francisco and other parts of the country. Some of these are still in existence, while others after a very brief and sickly career, perished for want of support. The "Placer Times," which was extensively circulated in the mining districts, had been commenced at Sacramento in April, 1849, and appeared weekly. This was also converted into a daily newspaper, and was subse-
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POLITICAL MEETING ON PORTSMOUTH SQUARE.
quently removed to San Francisco. It is a political journal, de- voted to the interests of the democratic cause.
FEBRUARY 13th .- A charter for the city, previously drafted and considered, was amended and approved of by the ayuntami- ento, and Messrs. Hagan and Green were instructed to present it to the representatives of the city for adoption by the legislature. By the first section of the charter it was declared, that "the limits of the City of San Francisco shall be the same which bounded the pueblo lands and town of San Francisco ; and its mu- nicipal jurisdiction shall extend to said limits, and over the wa- ters of the Bay of San Francisco, for the space of one league from the shore, including the Islands of Yerba Buena, Los An- geles, and Alcantraz."
FEBRUARY 28th .- A squatter difficulty occurred at the Rincon. Most of the land here was held as United States government reserve, and as such was leased for a limited period to Mr. Theodore Shillaber. Upon attempting to take possession, this gentleman found the leased property mostly occupied by " squatters," the majority of whom were from Sydney. These refused either to pay rent or vacate the land. Captain Keyes, therefore, having charge of the presidio, marched to the Rincon with a company of twenty United States soldiers, and soon de- molished all the tents and shanties that had been erected on the government grounds. A Mr. White, one of the leaders among the squatters, subsequently brought a civil action for damages against the captain ; but the latter was sustained by the court, and the case was dismissed, the prosecutor being required to pay the costs.
MARCH 9th .- Party politics begins to embrace a good share of public attention, and among the seekers after fame and for- tune, there is no scarcity of aspirants for political preferment. It is but lately, however, that party lines have been drawn, and whigs and democrats, as such, arrayed against each other in their patriotic efforts to promote the general welfare. But it was found less difficult to draw these lines than to rally the forces under their distinctive self-constituted leaders. There were as many officers as soldiers to enter the political campaign. At least, each party was divided into several factions, every faction
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having at its head, of course, men whose claims to public favor were superior to all others. Concerted action was therefore out of the question. The democrats had resolved to remedy this evil, so destructive of their party interests, by uniting or harmo- nizing all their conflicting elements. To this end a mass meet- ing was held this afternoon on Portsmouth Square. About one thousand persons assembled, a band of music played national airs, and a large and splendid ensign waved gracefully over the speakers' stand, upon which were stationed officers duly appointed to conduct the proceedings in proper form. The meeting was opened with great enthusiasm, and, for a time, every thing gave promise of the desired result. Several addresses were delivered with good effect, which were enthusiastically responded to by the admiring listeners. But a trying moment at length arrived. The committee chosen to draft resolutions expressive of the feel- ings and purposes of the democracy, presented their report, and the resolutions were submitted for passage. These called forth the factional prejudices of the assembly, which were exhibited in uproar and confusion. The chairman was unable to decide the votes, and hence, some of the most boisterous determined to decide them in a manner peculiar to themselves. What they failed to accomplish by the power of their lungs, they attempted to effect by " the force of arms." Blows were liberally bestowed and re- ceived, and broken heads and bleeding noses were the conse- quence. The fight commenced on the speakers' stand, and in a short time, the meeting was divided into a dozen squads, each taking an active part in the mêlée. Order was at length restored, and the mass once more gathered to adopt or reject the resolu- tions. The chairman again "put the question," and the " ayes " rang loudly through the air, which were followed no less loudly by the "noes." It was impossible to decide whether the "ayes " or the "noes " were in the ascendency. The holding up of hands was next resorted to. The "ayes " were told to hold up their right hands, and after them the "noes ; " but many of both par- ties seemed to imagine that in a matter of such importance, all hands were right, and consequently held up all the hands they had, doubtless regretting not having others for the purpose. It was then suggested that the "whigs" created all the difficulty,
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FIRST COUNTY ELECTION.
and they were requested to withdraw. The whigs accordingly fell back, leaving about one-half the assembly behind. Elated at the sight of their own numbers, they whirled their hats in triumph over their heads, which was accounted by their opponents as a signal for attack ; and down they rushed upon the retiring force in a perfect torrent, sweeping before them all who were not levelled with the dust. It was now thought expedient to ad- journ the meeting, which was effected with " three cheers " for the democracy, every aspirant for the honors, spoils and profits of which, internally resolving to support the party whenever its requirements did not conflict with his personal interests.
MARCH 26th .- For some time back there have been much agitation and discussion on the subject of the "Colton Grants." It appears that Mr. Horace Hawes, prefect of the district of San Francisco, had chosen to consider that the duties and privileges of his office were more extensive than had been previously sup- posed. He had, in particular, instructed Mr G. Q. Colton, a justice of the peace in and for his district, to sell and convey away the municipal lands, accounting only to himself for the proceeds of the same. When, afterwards, the Court of First In- stance, on the petition of the ayuntamiento, granted an injunction to restrain Mr. Colton from so acting, Mr. Hawes immediately issued a mandate annulling the said injunction. Mr. Colton meanwhile had sold or otherwise disposed of a great number of town allotments, some of them at nominal prices, to various parties. The ayuntamiento, holding that they alone were the proper parties to authorize such sales, thereupon determined this day to prefer against Mr. Hawes a number of charges, founded upon these and other facts, to the governor of the State ; and passed a long string of resolutions on the subject. The governor subsequently suspended Mr. Hawes from performing the duties of his office ; while the titles to the "Colton Grants," many of which had been signed in blank, and others were ante-dated, passed into the courts of law, and were for years afterwards a fertile source of litigation. In the end, it is believed that they were altogether found to be invalid.
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