USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens > Part 35
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419
HIGH PRICES OF GOODS AND PROVISIONS.
other kind of food, suffered severely from these high prices. Butter ranged from fifty-five to seventy cents a pound, over the early and greater part of the year. Other provisions and indeed most kinds of merchandise rose in proportion. The usual reac- tion, though long delayed, had taken place-the scarcity followed the glut ; and the fortunate holders of goods realized large profits, that compensated those who had continued in trade for the losses of the previous scasons. Late in the year, when mar- kets, in particular articles, were at the highest, it was known that a large fleet of clipper ships was on the passage with sup- plies, many of which vessels were overdue ; but as the stock actually on hand was very limited, and day by day was lessening in amount, which might be totally exhausted before the expected arrivals happened, consumers had to submit to necessity and pay the rates demanded. Time was every thing in such a market as San Francisco, where prices of merchandise usually fluctuated as do "fancy stocks" on the 'Change of New York, London or Paris. A week lost or gained in the arrival of a well selected cargo might just be a fortune lost or gained to the shipper. The clipper ships, as we have already remarked, were peculiarly the consequence of such a trade and the natural creation of the needs and commerce of our city. These clippers after being has- tily unloaded, were dispatched to India or China, where they either competed successfully with English ships for return car- goes to the Atlantic, or were profitably employed in bringing from the latter country many thousands of Chinese emigrants to California. Year by year, the clipper character of ship was being more adopted, until it became, commercially speaking, foolish and dangerous to freight any other kind of vessel to San Fran- cisco.
Cholera again visited the city in the fall of this year ; though its ravages were slight. However much may be said for the general healthiness of the place, little praise can be given for the very dirty state in which the greater part was allowed to remain -- and nearly the same may just be said of its condition in 1854. The streets were thickly covered with black rotten mud. These were the proper dunghills of the town, and were made a general depot for all kinds of rubbish and household sweepings, offals and
420
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
filth. Sometimes the rains came and scattered the abominable stuffs, carrying part of them into the bay ; at other times, the heats gradually dried them up. Rats-huge, fat, lazy things, prowled about at pleasure, and fed on the dainty garbage. The pedestrian at night, stumbling along the uneven pavements, and through streets that were only a series of quagmires, would occa-
A Street-scene on a rainy night.
sionally tread on the loathsome, bloated, squeaking creatures, and start back in disgust and horror, muttering a curse or two at such a villainously unclean town. These animals abounded in such great numbers that entire sacks and barrels of flour and bread have been destroyed by them on a single night in a storehouse. They were of several varieties, each differing in color. Besides the common grey rat, there were others white, blue and black. These latter descriptions have materially decreased in numbers of late ; the gray fellows, being the stronger, having, it is said, either driven away or destroyed them. Sickening stenches per-
421
PECULATIONS OF OFFICIALS.
vaded every quarter. Owing to the raising of the streets in the lower part of the city when establishing the grades, many of the building blocks became great hollow spaces, surrounded on the four sides by high banks of earth. In these places also, which had no drainage, every foul thing and unsightly rubbish were carelessly thrown, and soon deep pools of stagnant water collect- ed in the midst. Beneath the houses and streets which had been formed over the bay, and which had been only partially filled up, there was accumulating a vast mass of putrid substances, from whence proceeded the most unwholesome and offensive smells. In any other place as near the tropic these things would un- doubtedly have generated a pestilence ; but here the cool winds from the ocean which prevail during the summer season, and which at times are so unpleasant to the shivering inhabitant, had the beneficial effect of neutralizing many of the bad effects which must otherwise have arisen from the want of cleanliness over all the city. From the dead level preserved in that part of the city which was built across the bay, it would seem impossible that a thorough drainage can ever now be had in the lower and most valuable district. This is one of the inconveniences which the indefinite extension of the town eastward has produced. Perhaps it would have been better, if instead of streets and houses, there had been constructed substantial quays and wet docks sufficient to contain all the shipping that had ever visited the harbor. Ships then would have lain in safety from the "South-easters" and the "North-easters," which now so terribly plague and damage them when lying exposed at anchor in the tidal channel.
Crime, during 1852, was perhaps not sensibly diminished ; but in the increasing importance of other matters of public dis- cussion, lower-class criminals were tolerated, or less pursued. Legalized robberies, in the shape of "Peter Smith " purchases, more occupied the attention of the citizens. It would be unjust to individuals and to human nature, to challenge every public officer in San Francisco with gross peculation and corruption in office ; yet it was confessed on all sides that almost every citizen, who had a chance of preying upon the corporation means, unhesi- tatingly and shamefully took advantage of his position. His
422
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
brother harpies kept him in countenance. This gave rise to a general opinion that the city never could possibly obtain a pure and good government until the bone of contention among rival candidates for office,-its property, to wit,-was all exhausted, squandered, stolen or gifted away. When that perhaps happy day came,-as its advent seemed close at hand,-the "fathers" and salaried servants of the city might possibly work only for the common good, and not chiefly for their own. Had matters been prudently and patriotically managed, San Francisco might, at this day, have been the richest city, of its size, in the world. As the case stands, it is one of the poorest, as certainly its inhabi- tants are perhaps the most heavily taxed of any community for a feeble and inefficient government. This is chiefly to be attri- buted to the people themselves. Incapable, weak and corrupt officials are blamable, but the people who choose them, and of whom they are part, are perhaps much more in fault. Where the mass think, and talk, and act, without any particular regard to high moral principle, it can scarcely be expected that their chosen representatives should differ materially from them. When even a man of severe probity and high talent is elected to an office of trust, he finds often insuperable difficulties in his way, from the want of co-operation, and the carelessness or corruption of his own constituents. The most righteous judge can do little good on the bench when interested witnesses disguise the truth, and juries will return verdicts in defiance of it.
However, in spite of local jobbery and mismanagement, enor- mous municipal expenses, and iniquity every where, the city grew in size, beauty and importance. Its admirable maritime position, and chiefly the determined energy and perseverance of its people, who believed in its glorious future, and found their own interest in the work, were raising it year by year to still more remarkable grandeur. Many of the citizens were opulent, while none needed to be in poverty. Intemperance and dissipation alone could squander the enormous wages of the most inferior laborers and the large profits of capital in every kind of business. Then, as now, no healthy man of ordinary strength need want lucrative and honest employment of some kind or other. As for the sick and weak, San Francisco is indeed not a place for them, although
423
GROWING IMPORTANCE OF THE CITY.
hospitals and occasional private charities may serve to alleviate for a time their hapless situation. San Francisco is a place for work-real, useful, hard work. If any man can give that-it may sometimes be with the head, but oftener with the hand, he is sure, not merely of subsistence, but of a competence, and in- deed a fortune in the long run. If lazy, or incapable of such work, the sooner the useless thing takes his departure, the better for himself and the place.
No important change had occurred in the social or moral con- dition of San Francisco during 1852. The characteristics of the people which were noticed in our review of the previous year, still existed. The old dizzy round of business and pleasure continued. There were now only more people, greater wealth, finer houses, more shops and stores, more work, trade and profits, more places of dissipation and amusement, more tippling and swearing, more drunkenness and personal outrages, nearly as much public gam- bling and more private play. There were also a few more modest women, and many more of another class ; more benevolent insti- tutions and orphans' asylums ; more fire companies, military companies, and masonic lodges. Likewise there were more newspa- pers, that discoursed eloquently, ever railing "in good set terms " against corruption in high places, but which not being supported by the sincere feeling of a pure and honest people, made no such irresistible body of public opinion as they sometimes do in other countries. Then there were more churches, more moral teachers and religious publications, more Sabbath and day schools ; and, too, more of every thing that was beautiful and bad, more vice, debauchery and folly, and perhaps also a little more real religion, and sometimes a deal of outward decency. The moral sepulchre was occasionally receiving a fresh coat of paint. It should not be forgotten, at the same time, that with the increase of popula- tion, there was also an increase of occasional charities and high- minded liberal deeds. These things are done in secret, or they lose their noble character. The public generally know not of them. However much the sordid pursuit of wealth may cloud the true friendships and generous actions of many of the San Franciscans, the native worth of heroic and pure souls will at times shine through all. As kings reigned before Agamemnon,
424
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
so there are here great and worthy, honest and true men, as well as there have been elsewhere. Their exact number cannot be counted, but the student of human nature, according to his temperament and means of information, may hazard an estimate on the subject.
Residents of a few years' standing-the landmarks, by turns, of the ancient village, town and city, began now to disappear. These perhaps had made a fortune, and sown their "wild oats" in the place. They now retired to the Atlantic States or Europe, -to home, in short,-to enjoy their gains at ease, astonish quiet neighbors with their wondrous tales, speculate on the future of San Francisco, and become disgusted and ennuied with the slow- ness, tameness, decorum and insipidity of the conventional mode of existence they were leading. New faces and new names were rising into importance, in place of the earliest pioneers and the "forty-niners." The majority, however, of the first settlers had faith in the place ; they relished its excitements as well of business as of pleasure ; they had no family or fond ties elsewhere, or these had been long rudely broken ; and so they adhered to San Francisco. Many of these persons had waxed very rich, in spite of themselves, by the sudden rise in the value of real estate, or by some unexpected circumstance, while others, after expending a world of ingenuity, wickedness and hard work, remained almost as poor as when, hopeful and daring, they landed in the ship's boat at Clark's Point, or when the tide was high, at the first rude wharf that ran a short distance out from the beach at Mont- gomery street. There is a fascination in even the loose, unset- tled kind of life at San Francisco. Of many who have left the city, after a residence of years, and when they have accumulated a handsome fortune, a considerable number have gladly returned. For many months, perhaps for even a year or two, the immigrant thinks he can never worthily or rationally enjoy existence in such a place ; so he determines to make a fortune as soon as possible, and decamp for ever. But fortunes are now made more slowly, and the old citizen-a few years here make one old in sensation, thought and experience-changes his sentiments, and he begins to like the town and people for their own sake. The vices and follies, the general mode of living, that frightened and shocked
F
425
SAN FRANCISCO MORALS.
him at first, seem natural to the climate, and, after all, are by no means so very disagreeable. If he returned to settle in ultra or pseudo-civilized and quiet States, he would surely feel himself but a "used-up" man ; so he continues where he made his money, still to feel, speculate and enjoy, to work and contend with real men, in their keenest and strongest characters.
It may be thought by some that we have said many over- harsh things in this and other chapters of this work, regarding our fellow citizens. We cannot help that, for the occasions seem to justify the language used. If unmingled praise, or hesitating censure were adopted when talking of San Francisco, people else- where would not believe the tale, while those here would only laugh in their sleeve at the decent hypocrisy and cant of the writer. Better proclaim the worst at once ; and then let who will find explanations, excuses and palliations. These will be readily advanced by the wiser portion of mankind, who know the temptations that beset poor human nature, and how often it falls when fatal opportunity offers. Let it be always understood that we describe the place as at particular periods, and not what we think will be its grand coming destiny. San Francisco was, at the times of which we have discoursed, and it still is, in a state of moral ferment. When the ebullition ceases, though years may elapse before that happens, the natural qualities of its ad- venturous and clever people will be more clearly and generously developed. The scum and froth of its strange mixture of peo- ples, of its many scoundrels, rowdies and great men, loose women, sharpers and few honest folk, are still nearly all that is visible. The current of its daily life is muddied and defiled by the wild effervescence of these unruly spirits. It may be said that nearly all came to the city only as devout worshippers of mammon ; scarcely one, to find a home, which might unjustly have been de- nied him elsewhere. In order to accumulate the greatest heap of gold in the shortest possible time, schemes and actions had often to be resorted to, which nice honor could not justify nor strict honesty adopt. In the scramble for wealth, few had con- sciences much purer than their neighbors ; few hands were much cleaner. Some were found out and victimized ; others were wise and provoked not discussion. The few lamented, and the
426
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
wise and good hoped and foresaw better things. Time, and a sounder public opinion, will cure most of the evils we have allud- ed to, leaving the undoubted talent, shrewdness, capacity for hard, practical work, and the original honesty, honor and high liberal spirit of the people free to show themselves. Cities, like men, have their birth, growth and maturer years. Some are born Titans, and from the beginning promise to be mighty in their deeds, however wilful and destructive. Few spring into being full armed, wise and sedate as Minerva. San Francisco, while it can show so many enduring marvels for its few years, has also wasted much of its means in "riotous living ; " but its young hot blood will cool by and by. Then ripened years and wisdom will subdue its foolish levities and more disgraceful vices. Mean- while, let us treat the noble city kindly, just as we deal with the beautiful woman that offends us-look upon her face and forget her follies. We pardon the careless, extravagant, yet high spir- ited youth, who lavishes his substance in wild pleasure, when he stops short and vows repentance ; nay, even though he break out again and again, we cannot seriously feel offended with the charming gallant, so only that he hurts nobody but himself. Let us view San Francisco in something of the same gentle and forgiving, if not sympathizing spirit.
CHAPTER XXIV.
1853.
Commerce .- Mercantile Library Association .- The Limantour clalm .- Election of delegates to revise the City Charter .- Third annual celebration of the organization of the Fire Department .- Steam- ships lost .- Extension of the city water front .- United States Marine Hospital.
JANUARY .- We have taken occasion to notice in various parts of this work the progress of commerce in San Francisco. Year by year, the number of vessels visiting the harbor was increasing. We present here some statements on the subject, compiled from a table of statistics by Colonel Cost, of the naval office.
ARRIVALS AND CLEARANCES IN THE PORT OF SAN FRANCISCO DURING THE YEAR 1852.
Arrivals.
Clearances.
Nations.
Vessels.
Tons.
Nations.
Vessels.
Tons.
American
346
188,575
Ameriear
405
216,642
British.
225
74,931
British
196
76,270
French
29
11,286
French.
33
12,949
Chilian.
37
9,393
Chilian
25
6,444
Mexican
41
5,279
Mexican.
34
4,567
Danish.
12
2,215
Danish
10
1,959
Bremen.
11
3,132
Bremen.
11
2,977
Norwegian.
4
1,100
Norwegian.
2
576
Hamburg.
20
4,628
Hamburg
20
4,185
Dutch .. .
15
6,965
Dutch. .
5
1,523
Hawaiian
28
3,562
Hawaiian.
25
3,190
Peruvian
14
2,024
Peruvian.
8
1,599
Prussian.
2
960
Prussian
2
540
Swedish.
4
1,156
Swedish
5
1,700
Portuguese.
3
675
Portuguese.
2
450
Brazilian
1
738
Brazilian
1
728
Sardinian
3
1.038
Sardinian
7
1,383
Austrian ..
1
521
Austrian ..
1
300
Am. Coasters.
351
196,282
Am. Coasters
.833
115,462
Total
1147
514,460
Total.
1625
453,444
In 1851, the arrivals
In 1851 the clearances
wer3.
847
245,678
were.
1315
422,043
Increase.
300
268,782
Increase
310
31,401
428
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
The shipments of gold dust during 1852 from San Francisco, as appears from the custom-house record of clearances, amounted in all to $46,599,044. Of this amount the value of $45,251,724 was cleared for Panama ; $511,376, for San Juan ; $482,596, for Hong Kong ; and the remainder principally for various ports on the Pacific. Sums carried away by individuals are not included in the amounts mentioned.
JANUARY 25th .- Election of officers of the Mercantile Libra- ry Association. It had long been evident that such an associa- tion was much needed in San Francisco. In the absence of any thing like a home or domestic comfort, all classes seemed to be alike forced to frequent places of public recreation, and were ex- posed to the many degrading influences which drink, gambling, and still worse vices have upon the personal character. To with- draw youths in particular from the haunts of dissipation, and to give to persons of every age and occupation the means of mental improvement, and a suitable place for passing their leisure hours, were the great objects of the Mercantile Library Association. Public meetings were held, at which the purposes and advan- tages of the proposed institution were strongly urged by its benevo- lent projectors and patrons ; and committees were formed to col- lect contributions of books and subscriptions from the general public. By these means a considerable deal of interest was ex- cited on the subject, and liberal donations and subscriptions were procured. The following gentlemen were unanimously elected as the first officers :-
President .- David S. Turner.
Vice-President .- J. P. Haven. Treasurer .- C. E. Bowers, jr.
Recording Sec'y .- R. H. Stephen. Corresponding Sec'y .- Dr. H. Gibbons. Directors .- E. E. Dunbar, J. B. Crockett, D. H. Haskell and E. P. Flint.
The rooms of the association, which were on the second floor of the California Exchange,-a central and most convenient lo- cality,-were first opened on the evening of the 1st of March of this year. The largest apartment was elegantly fitted up as a reading and lecture room, and was abundantly supplied with local newspapers, and with some of the leading journals of the Eastern States, as well as with a choice selection of magazines and reviews. The library contained fifteen hundred volumes by
1
429
THE LIMANTOUR CLAIM.
the best authors, and was being constantly increased by dona- tions and purchases. Only one year later, it numbered about three thousand volumes, comprising many of the best standard works in the English language, besides many valuable works in French, Spanish, German, &c.
This institution is of the most excellent character, and de- serves the active support and well wishes of every liberal-minded citizen. It is the best substitute for a portion of the comforts of a home that can be provided in the present condition of San Francisco. Occasional lectures on interesting topics, literary and dramatic essays and readings, and frequent public debates on political and other subjects of the day, give variety and excite- ment to the ordinary business of the association. The pleasures and advantages of this institution have not hitherto been suf- ficiently understood, or sought by the people for whom they were intended ; but it may be presumed that the intrinsic and grow- ing merits of the association will in future excite more fruitful notice from all classes of the community. The terms of mem- bership are very moderate, being an entrance fee of ten dollars (since reduced to five dollars, "for clerks and others in employ"), and a monthly payment of one dollar. A subscription of twen- ty-five dollars, and a monthly payment of one dollar, entitle the party to one share in the stock of the institution, and to the pro- fits arising on the same. The library and reading rooms are open every day, from 9 o'clock A. M. to 10 o'clock P. M. For two hours after noon they are only open to ladies, and gentlemen accompa- nying ladies. The chambers of the association are now in the Court Block, Merchant street.
FEBRUARY 5th .- The claim of José Yves Limantour present- ed to the Board of Land Commissioners. San Francisco, which had survived the Leavenworth and Colton grants, the Peter Smith sales, and other legalized robberies and "squatters " with- out number, though it suffered terribly in the struggle, was now threatened by a claim, which if held valid, would turn over to a single individual one-half of its real estate, owned partly by the city itself, and partly by thousands of onerous and bona fide hold- ers, who fancied their possessions were their own by the strongest legal titles. Limantour, who was a Frenchman by birth, and
430
ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.
had been a trader along the coast, stated, that he had advanced, in the year 1843, to Manuel Micheltorrena, who was then Mexi- can Governor and Commandante-General of the Californias, con- siderable sums of money for the use of the departmental govern- ment of that country, at a period when it was impoverished. In return for this service, or as it is expressed in the deed itself, "in consideration of loans in merchandise and ready money which he has made to this government at different times " (somewhere about $4000), Limantour said that he had received a complete grant of certain large tracts of land in the neighborhood of Yerba Buena. The deed of conveyance and several relative papers have been produced to the Board of Commissioners, and appear at first sight regular and legal documents. The first seems to have been given at Los Angeles, the 27th day of February, 1843, and is signed by Micheltorrena. It conveys "the land contained from the line of the pueblo de la Yerba Buena, distant four hundred varas from the settlement house (casa fundadora) of Don William Richardson to the south-east, beginning on the beach at the north-east, and following it along its whole edge (margen), turning round the point of Rincon to the south-east, and following the bay as far as the mouth of the estuary of the mission, including the deposits of salt water, and following the valley (cañada) to the south-west, where the fresh water runs, passing to the north-west side, about two hundred varas from the mission to where it completes two leagues north-east and south-west to the Rincon, as represented by the plat (diseño) No. 1, which accompanies the Expediente.
"Second : Two leagues of land, more or less, beginning on the beach of the 'Estacada' at the ancient anchorage of the port of San Francisco, below the castle (castillo) following to the south-east, passing the " presidio" (military post)-follow- ing the road of the mission, and the line to the south-west as far as the beach which runs to the south from the port, taking the said beach to the north-west, turning round the Point Lobos, and following to the north-east, along the whole beach of the castle (castillo) two hundred varas, and following the beach as far as the 'Estacada,' where begins the plat ( diseño) No. 2."
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