USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens > Part 39
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" Fourthly, That a grant of a lot in San Francisco, made by an alcalde, whether a Mexican or of any other nation, raises the presumption that the alealde was a properly qualified officer, that he had authority to make the grant, and that the land was within the boundaries of the pueblo."
SICH'S
ESTAUR'N
St. Francis Hotel immediately after the fire.
These conclusions sustain all alcaldes' grants in the city, no matter though the alcalde himself had been illegally appointed and had made a dishonest use of his power. By this decision- all opposing precedents having been expressly set aside by the court-many notoriously fraudulent alcalde grants have been legal- ized ; but that seems a small price to pay for the full assurance of title now given to the proprietors of the most valuable part of the ground within the municipal bounds.
OCTOBER 22d .- Destruction by fire of the St. Francis Hotel, at the corner of Dupont and Clay streets. This was a famous house in the history of San Francisco. It was built in the fall of 1849, and in the basement story the polls were held of the
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first State election. It was afterwards converted into a first- class hotel. The structure was composed of the slightest and most inflammable materials ; and it had long been matter of sur- prise that it had escaped the many conflagrations which had so repeatedly destroyed great portions of the city. When, at last, it was consumed, people were not only no whit surprised, but many were absolutely glad that it was so, since the danger of its long anticipated burning spreading to the neighboring tene- ments was thereby put an end to. The strenuous exertions of the firemen confined the fire to the building in which it originated. The damage was estimated at $17,000. One lodger was burned to death ; and several firemen were very severely injured by the flames. The masterly efforts of the Fire Department on this oc- casion were much praised.
OCTOBER 24th .- First telegraphic communication between San Francisco and Marysville. This was the completion of the line of the State Telegraph Company, already noticed. The whole length of the wire is two hundred and six miles ; and it was erected in seventy-five days. The rates charged were, and are now as follows : From San Francisco to Stockton, Saera- mento or Marysville, two dollars for the first ten words ; and for each additional five words, seventy-five cents. From San Fran- cisco to San José, for the first ten words, one dollar, and for each additional five words forty cents.
NOVEMBER .- The "Lone Mountain Cemetery " projected. A tract of land three hundred and twenty aeres in extent, lying between the presidio and the mission, is to be laid out in a pro- per manner as a new resting-place for the dead, the cemetery of Yerba Buena being considered, by the planners of the new grounds, too near the city for a permanent burial-place. The new cemetery is located near the well-known "Lone Mountain," situated three or four miles west of the plaza. From the sum- mit of this beautifully shaped hill may be obtained one of the finest and most extensive views of land and water. At the date of writing, very material and expensive improvements are being made upon the grounds, to adapt them for the purposes of a cemetery.
NOVEMBER 9th .- The day of St. Francis, the anniversary of the foundation of the Mission Dolores, in 1776. In the pre-
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ceding pages, occasional allusions have been made to the for- mer grandeur and subsequent decline of this mission. At present, the chief thing worthy of notice about the place is the old church. This is constructed of adobes, and is a spacious building. The exterior is partially whitewashed and is very plain in appearance, although the front pretends to some old-fashioned architectural
BAXTER
Interior of a Mission Church.
decorations, and shows several handsome bells. The capacious interior is dark, cold and comfortless. The walls and roof are roughly painted, and upon the former are several common paint- ings of saints and sacred subjects. The ornaments upon and around the great altar are of the tinsel character usually adopted in ordinary Roman Catholic churches. It is presumed they are of no great pecuniary value. Public worship is still regularly celebrated in this huge and gloomy temple. The usual audiences are a few women, whose features and dress proclaim their Spanish origin. If any of the fast-thinking, doing and living people of San Francisco could be induced to " pause and moralize a while," there is no spot so fitted to encourage the unwonted mood, as the dismal, silent and deserted interior of the Mission Church.
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THE SPANISH RACES.
There is an awe and apparent holiness about the place which the casual heretical visitor cares not to disturb, as he perhaps hum- bly kneels on the damp, earthen floor, and worships in secret his own God. A walk round the small graveyard attached to the church will only deepen his meditation as he gazes on the tombs of departed pioneers and gold-hunters, and reflects upon the glory of the ancient patriarchal times of tame Indians and their ghostly keepers.
The mission has always been a favorite place of amusement to the citizens of San Francisco. Here, in the early days of the city, exhibitions of bull and bear fights frequently took place, which attracted great crowds ; and here, also, were numerous duels fought, which drew nearly as many idlers to view them. At present, there are two race-courses in the neighborhood, and a large number of drinking-houses. 'Two plank-roads lead thither from the city, upon both of which omnibuses run every half hour. The mission lies within the municipal bounds, and probably will soon be united with the city by a connected line of buildings. The highway to San José and the farther south, runs through the vil- lage, while around it are fine green hills and fertile fields, and hotels and places of public recreation. These things all make the old home of the " fathers " a place of considerable importance to our health and pleasure seekers. On fine days, especially on Sun- days, the roads to the mission show a continual succession, pass- ing to and fro, of all manner of equestrians and pedestrians, and elegant open carriages filled with ladies and holiday folk.
Since we have given elsewhere short separate notices of some of the leading races, not American, that people San Francisco, we may here say a few words upon that one which first settled in the country-the Spanish. Over the whole of California, there may be probably about 20,000 persons of Spanish extraction ; and in San Francisco alone, some 3,000. It is of the last only that we would speak. Few of them are native Californians. Per- haps one-half of the number are Mexicans, and one-third Chilians. The remaining sixth consists of Peruvians and natives of Old Spain, and of parts of Spanish America other than Mexico, Chili and Peru. The Hispano-Americans, as a class, rank far beneath the French and Germans. They are ignorant and lazy, and are con-
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sequently poor. A few of their number may have a high social standing in the city, while some more bear a respectable position. For these there is one page of a French tri-weekly newspaper written in the Spanish language. It is not of them, nor of the few native Californians, who are gentlemen by nature, that we speak, but of the great mass of the race. Many of the Chili- ans are able both to read and write; few of the Mexicans can. Both peoples, when roused by jealousy or revenge, as they often are, will readily commit the most horrid crimes. In proportion to their numbers, they show more criminals in the courts of law than any other class. The Mexicans seem the most inferior of the race. They have had no great reason to love the American chia- racter, and, when safe opportunity offers, are not slow to show detestation of their conquerors. The sullen, spiteful look of the
common Mexicans in California is very observable. The Chilians in the time of the "Hounds" were an oppressed and despised people. Since that period the class has perhaps improved. The Hispano-Americans fill many low and servile employments, and in general engage only in such occupations as do not very severe- ly tax either mind or body. They show no ambition to rise be- yond the station where destiny, dirt, ignorance and sloth have placed them. They seem to have no wish to become naturalized citizens of the Union, and are morally incapable of comprehend- ing the spirit and tendencies of our institutions. The most infe- rior class of all, the proper " greaser," is on a par with the com- mon Chinese and the African ; while many negroes far excel the first-named in all moral, intellectual and physical respects.
The Hispano-Americans dwell chiefly about Dupont, Kearny and Pacific streets-long the blackguard quarters of the city. In these streets, and generally in the northern parts of the city, are many dens of gross vice, which are patronized largely by Mexicans and Chilians. Their dance, drink and gambling houses are also the haunts of negroes and the vilest order of white men. In the quarrels which are constantly arising in such places many treach- erous, thieving and murderous deeds are committed. A large proportion of the common Mexican and Chilian women are still what they were in the days of the " Hounds," abandoned to lewd practices, and shameless.
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FIREMEN'S ELECTION.
The large and elegant building called "Custom-House Block," at the south-east corner of Sansome and Sacramento streets, was completed and partially occupied during this month. It was con- structed at a cost, exclusive of the land, of $140,000 ; and is a substantial structure, three stories high, besides a basement, fronting eighty feet on Sansome and one hundred and eighty-five
CUST BLOCK !!
LOUSE
KNIGHT. CHADWICK &C. BARONN& CO
3.W.ORR NX
Custom-House Block.
feet on Sacramento street. The various offices connected with the custom-house and naval department, besides a billiard room, and sundry other offices and stores, are in the second and third stories.
DECEMBER 2d .- The mail steamship Winfield Scott, on her way from San Francisco to Panama, was wrecked on the rocky and desolate Island of Anacapa, near the Island of Santa Cruz, off Santa Barbara. The passengers and most of the mail bags were saved, but the ship was a total loss. The accident was caus- ed by dense fogs and ignorance of the exact position of the ship.
DECEMBER 5th .- Annual election of the Fire Department, when the following officers were chosen : Chief Engineer .--
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Charles P. Duane. Assistant Engineers .- E. A. Ebbetts, Joseph Caprise and Charles F. Simpson.
DECEMBER 13th .- The Barque Anita sailed with about two hundred and forty volunteers to join a small band of adventurers that had lately left San Francisco on a filibustering expedition against Lower California and Sonora. The circumstances at- tending this expedition show in a remarkable manner the wild and restless spirit that influences so many of the people of Cali- fornia. Not content with their own large territory, much of which is still unexplored, and nearly all of which that is known is characterized by extraordinary richness in minerals, fertility of soil, beauty of scenery, and mildness and salubrity of climate- by everything, in short, that could tempt an energetic immigrant to develope its unusual advantages-many of our restless people sighed for new countries, if not like Alexander for new worlds, to see and conquer. The Mexican province of Sonora had long been reputed to be among the richest mineral regions in the world. Its mines, however, had never been properly developed. The Mexican character is not a very enterprising one. At the same time, the ravages of the numerous tribes of warlike Indians that inhabit many parts of Sonora and its frontier, had farther checked all efforts to work the known gold and silver mines there. The . country otherwise was a fine agricultural and pastoral one ; and, if slaves could only be introduced to cultivate and reap the teem- ing fields, the owners would draw immense revenues from them. To conquer, or steal this rich country, was therefore a very desira- ble thing. That it belonged in sovereignty to a friendly and peaceable power, and that some seventy thousand white people in- habited and possessed the land, appeared matters of no great con sequence. The government of Mexico was a worthless one, sure- ly, and the citizens of Sonora were, or should be, dissatisfied with it, and had a right to rebel, and call upon foreigners to aid them in their rebellion. If they did not, why, their culpable negli- gence was certainly no fault of the filibusters. The Sonorians ought to rise, proclaim their independence, and cry for help from all and sundry. That was enough. The filibusters needed no particular invitation. They were determined to succor the poor Sonorians, and themselves ; and so they gathered together with
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arms and ammunition for the purpose. Walker was another Lopez ; Sonora, another Cuba.
About a twelvemonth before this date the grand scheme was first projected, and during the following summer was matured. Scrip was largely printed and circulated at fair prices among speculative jobbers. This paper was to be redeemed by the first proceeds of the new government. The nominal and perhaps real leader of the movement was a gentleman, William Walker to wit, who has already figured in these pages, as the champion of the press and popular rights against the alleged corrupt judiciary of former times. Walker is said to be personally a brave, highly educated and able man, whatever may be thought of his discre- tion and true motives of conduct in the expedition. He seems to have taken a high moral and political position in the affair, though his professions were peculiar and their propriety not readily admitted by downright sticklers for equity and natural justice. A few of his coadjutors were perhaps also men of a keen sense of honor, who forgot, or heeded not, in the excitement of the adventure, the opinions of mere honest men upon the sub- ject. But the vast majority of Walker's followers can only be viewed as desperate actors in a true filibustering or robbing spe- culation. The good of the wretched and Apache-oppressed So- norians was not in their thoughts. If they succeeded, they might lay the sure foundations of fortunes ; if they failed, it was only time and perhaps life lost. In either event, there was a grand excitement in the game.
What Americans generally are to other nations, so are the mixed people of California to Eastern Americans themselves. All the impulsive characteristics of the natives of the Atlantic States are on the Pacific carried out to excess. Americans, and particularly those in California, are not altogether devoted to money ; they oftentimes love change and excitement better. The golden gains to be sometimes won here by strange specula- tions early engendered a most restless disposition in society. The adventurous character of the succeeding immigrants readily received the impress and spirit of the place. What, our people seem to think, is the worth of life, wanting emotion, wanting ac- tion ? At whatever hazard, most persons here must have occa-
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sional excitement-new speculations, leading to personal adven- ture, change of scene and variety of life. Danger to life and limb and loss of property will not stand in the way. They will overlook the fairest prospect close at hand, with its dull routine of duty and labor, to seek for an inferior one at a distance. They are almost invariably dissatisfied with their present con- dition, whatever that may be. The world moves not fast enough for their boundless desires. Thus a new land, where hope and fancy see all things, is to them a charmed land. They will seek and know its qualities, or perish in the attempt. Discontent and restlessness make the true spirit of " progress " that is ever un- satisfied with the dull present, the practical and real. These are the characteristics of all great men and great races, and are the strongest signs of their superior intellect.
The spirit of progress is probably a most unhappy one to in- dividuals, although it tends to raise a nation to the height of wealth and glory. Knowledge is power, the attribute of a god ; yet as the satirist says, increase of knowledge is only increase of sorrow. Knowledge-power-" progress," is the Anglo Saxon disposition, which has been developed on a large scale in the American character. Brother Jonathan, like the Israelite of old, seems doomed everlastingly to wander over the earth. His jour- ney fairly began nearly a century since. On, on he must go. Excelsior ! is his cry. The morality of the various steps in the fated pilgrimage-as morals, social and political, are commonly understood among old-fashioned people-may be dubious ; yet the weary work must proceed. It is the fate of America ever to " go ahead." She is like the rod of Aaron that became a serpent and swallowed up the other rods. So will America conquer or annex all lands. That is her " manifest destiny." Only give her time for the process. To swallow up every few years a province as large as most European kingdoms is her present rate of progress. Sometimes she purchases the mighty morsel, sometimes she forms it out of waste territory by the natural increase of her own people, sometimes she " annexes," and sometimes she conquers it. Her " progress " is still steadily onward. Pioneers clear the way. These are political agents with money bags, or settlers in neglected parts of the continent, or peaceable American citizens
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THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS.
who happen to reside in the desired countries, and who wish to dwell under the old "Stars and Stripes," or they may be only pro- per filibusters, who steal and fight gratuitously for their own fast- following Uncle Sam. When they fail in their schemes, they are certainly scoundrels, and are commonly so termed ; when they succeed, though they be dubbed heroes, they are still the old rogues. Meanwhile AMERICA (that is the true title of our country) secures the spoils won to her hand, however dishonest- ly they may have come. That is only her destiny, and perhaps she is not so blamable as a nation in bearing it willingly. One may profit by the treason, yet hate the traitor. Let the distant monarchs of the lands beyond the great lakes and the tawny people of the far south look to it. America must round her ter- ritories by the sea. Like Russia, she is steadily creeping over the world, but different from that empire, her presence bestows freedom and good upon the invaded nations, and not despotism, ignorance, and unmanly, brutal desires.
The pioneers into Sonora were Walker and his people. They never reached their destination. Lower California was in the way, and they thought it best to begin on the small scale, and secure it first. On the 30th of September of this year, the brig Arrow, which was about to be employed to convey the filibusters to the land of promise, was seized by order of General Hitch- cock, commanding the United States forces on the Pacific, and acting under orders or a sense of his duty to protect a neighbor- ing friendly power from being wrongfully attacked by Americans. This measure involved General Hitchcock in unpleasant litigation, and seems to have disgusted him with attempting to interfere farther in the filibusters' movements. For want of sufficient le- gal evidence to show the destination of the Arrow and the char- acter of the preparations making by those connected with the affair, or rather, perhaps, through disinclination of the prosecu- tors to go on with the proceedings, the case was abandoned and the vessel released. Meanwhile, the other officials here of the United States Government, whose duty it was to prevent all pi- ratical and filibustering expeditions from leaving the port, gave little attention to the subject, and appeared wilfully to neglect their most urgent duties. As for the State and city authorities,
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it seemed to be considered none of their business to move in the matter. The newspaper press was neutral, or at all events did not (with one or two exceptions) loudly condemn the course in- tended to be pursued by the known filibusters. Encouraged by these circumstances, the adventurers soon procured another ves- sel, the barque Caroline, and shortly afterwards (16th October), forty-six of their number sailed in her from San Francisco for the lower coast. Early in November, they reached the town of La Paz, situated within the Gulf of California, and in the southern division of the peninsula. There they landed, scattered the sur- prised inhabitants, secured the governor, proclaimed the indepen- dence of Lower California, declared the civil code of Louisiana the law of the land, hauled down the Mexican flag and hoisted their own-all within half an hour. A slight engagement after- wards took place between the Mexicans and the invaders, in which the latter were successful, after killing a few of the enemy. This was the battle of La Paz. Mr. Walker then was nominated " President of the Republic of Lower California," and chose, or had chosen for him his various Secretaries of State, War and Navy, and other grand functionaries of the new government. As there were fewer than fifty men to select from, a pretty fair pro- portion of the party became suddenly dignitaries in the Republic. The President, his staff and whole forces soon forsook La Paz, the particular reason for attacking which town at this juncture of events is not plain, though perhaps it was only to create a " sensation." There was not even the pretence made that the inhabitants of the place, or any of the natives of Lower Califor- nia, had invited the presence of the spoilers of their property. Walker and his party now retreated altogether from the gulf ; and carrying with them the archives of the government, sailed for Ensenada, a place about a hundred miles below San Diego, on the Pacific side of the peninsula. Here, in a thinly peopled and unattractive country, and at a long distance from any Mexi- can troops, they were safe for a time ; and here they established their " Head Quarters," until reinforcements should reach them from San Francisco. It was understood that the seizure of Low- er California was only the first step in the proposed conquest of Sonora, which was all along the grand object of the expedition.
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THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS.
When news of this short campaign reached San Francisco, there was a mighty ado with the friends and sympathizers of the expedition. Among the few initiated in the supposed secret causes of the adventure, there were brilliant hopes of the indefi- nite extension of one of the peculiar " domestic institutions " of the South, and among all were glorious dreams of conquest and plunder. The national flag of the new Republic was run up at the corner of Kearny and Sacramento streets, and an office was opened for the purpose of enlisting recruits. The excitement was great in the city. At the corners of the streets and in bar- rooms, groups of intending buccaneers and their friends collected, and discussed the position of affairs. More volunteers appeared than there were means of conveying to the scene of action. News next reached the city of the battle of La Grulla, near Santo Tomas, where the filibusters, when said to be in the act of helping themselves to the cattle and provisions of the natives, were severely handled, and a few of them slain. This, however, only fired the recruits the more to help their oppressed brethren. Why could not the Lower Californians, poor, ignorant brutes, have been contented with the beautiful scrip of the new Republic for their paltry provisions ? The rage for war-freedom to the Mexicans, death to the Apaches, and plunder to the Americans- spread over all California, and numbers hastened from the mining regions to San Francisco, to depart southward in time and share in the spoil of the conquered land. The authorities meanwhile, looked calmly on, and took no steps to prevent the departure of the filibusters. The newspapers recorded their various movements at length, and in general either indirectly praised, or did not strongly condemn them. People in private circles laughed, and talked over the business coolly. They generally thought, and said, it was all right-at all events, it was a fine specimen of the go-aheadism of Young America. Moneyed men even advanced considerable sums for the use of the expeditionists, and the scrip of the new Republic was almost saleable on 'Change, at a dime for a dollar.
We have mentioned this affair at some length, more to show the general wild and reckless character of the people, and the state of public opinion upon filibustering, in San Francisco, and
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