USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of California, and a complete history of its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens > Part 53
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The arrival of the steamer bearing the eastern mails is like- wise an occasion of much excitement-not so much in respect of there being possibly some six or eight hundred passengers on board, as because there are fifty thousand letters and newspapers coming from home. The telegraph has some hours before announced that the " Golden Gate " is approaching the Heads. The glad tidings soon spread through the town. Those who expect to find friends hasten to spy and welcome them before even the vessel touches the wharf. Draymen and cabmen speed with their wagons and coaches to secure a job. A multitude of persons attend for the novelty and excitement of the scene. There are nearly as many persons on the broad wharf as on the occasion of the steamer departing. On sweeps the " Golden Gate "-a mag- nificent specimen of the first-class ocean steamer. Her decks are crowded with human beings. Deuse masses cluster on the highest plank that can afford them footing, and cling high to the rails and rigging. The passengers are chiefly fresh immigrants, who have sought the land of gold and marvels, to make or recover a fortune. And this is San Francisco ! they say to each other, as they mark the forest of masts, and the hill-sides covered with buildings. Well! it exceeds all my expectations! But we have not space, Asmodeus-like, to uncover the chambers of their brain, and tell the various thoughts, fancies, hopes, ambitions, of the sanguine immigrants. Among them are those who must and shall suc- ceed, and also those who will surely be disappointed and lament- ably fail. Among the last are a large proportion of medical men, political place-hunters, lawyers, and such as would fain live more by their wits than by rude manual labor. The most of these men,-many of whom are highly educated in classic and polite literature,-must forget their refined associations, and submit to corporeal drudgery, if they would thrive in San Francisco. If they cheerfully do that, there is hope and fortune in store for them.
For a few days such as intend to betake themselves to gold- digging remain in town, and with staring, greedy eyes, look about them, while they recruit their strength. Thus many a
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lank, awkward, budding Hercules may often be seen dreamily wondering, while he wanders through the streets. Or if there be a good demand for laborers in San Francisco, some may take a few weeks spell at town work, to earn a " slug" or two, to help them to travel farther. The finances of the newly-come immi- grant are commonly but scanty. Many skilled mechanics and tradesmen are among the number ; and these generally find instant employment, if they diligently seek it, in their various occupations. If the particular kind of business, however, which they wish, and are best fitted for, cannot be obtained, then, as they have hands, and eyes, and feet, and may have willing spirits not above coarse work, they may always find something to do, to keep soul and body together and save a little money to wait till their better time comes, when they may have a choice of employ- ment. But gradually many of the fresh immigrants swarm off to Sacramento, and others to Stockton, as the first stages to the mining regions. A considerable number of the passengers, par- ticularly those in the cabin, are only returned Californians, such as had gone off some months before. These are gladly coming back to speculations and hard work, to feverish passion, wild delights and all the dear, wicked, fast life of San Francisco. The austerities of New England, the dull proprieties of the Quaker City, and the general monotony of society over most parts of the East, have only sharpened the appetites of the old settlers for the delightful excitement that ever reigns in the noble city which they themselves have helped to create.
The expresses hurry off their packages, mails are landed, decks are cleared, and the passengers have all found a temporary lodging. The post-office establishment is meanwhile as busy as possible, arranging the letters for delivery. Merchants open their private boxes and find the all-important missives they looked for. Anxious crowds gather at the windows and with beating hearts ask for the longed-for, half-expected letters. The reader may readily imagine their mingled hopes and fears as the clerk answers their inquiries. He who is blessed with news from home trem- blingly unfolds the precious epistle in the street, and devours, as it were, with gloating eyes, the substantial words. The disap- pointed seeker turns ruefully away, to hope for success next mail.
Oriental Hotel, corner of Battery and Bush streets.
HOTELS, RESTAURANTS AND BOARDING-HOUSES.
IN 1849 and the two or three subsequent years, although the population had swelled to a large number, there were few families in San Francisco, and consequently, as has already been observed, there were no homes for the great mass of the inhabitants. Men lived as they were never accustomed to live in any other portion of the world. Many, who previous to emigrating here, were in the enjoyment of all the pleasures and luxuries of refined civilized life, were now without even its most ordinary comforts. Numbers lodged in mean, inhospitable tents, that were pitched everywhere upon the hills, in the valleys, and among the bushes ; and still more, perhaps, in wretched and filthy shanties, where from one to three score would occupy a single large room, sleeping upon the floor, on benches, boxes, tables, or trunks, or in narrow con- tracted bunks fastened to the weather-boards. The majority of those who possessed places of business, passed their hours of
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slumber upon or under the counters of their stores, or mayhap on cots, matresses, or settees with which their offices were fur- nished. A clean and comfortable bed was a rare article at the time, and few even aspired to the privilege of its enjoyment. Thus people lived at night, or during such portions of the night that were not passed in drinking saloons, gambling rooms, or other places of public entertainment ; while their meals were taken at eating-houses, of which there was an immense number in every portion of the town. These were of every description, good, bad and indifferent, and kept by every variety of people. There were the American dining-rooms, the English lunch-houses, the French cabarets, the Spanish fondas, the German wirthchafts, the Italian osterie, the Chinese chow-chows, and so on to the end of a very long chapter. There were cooks, too, from every coun- try ; American, English, French, German, Dutch, Chinese, Chil- eno, Kanaka, Italian, Peruvian, Mexican, Negro, and what not. Hence people of any nation might have choice of a place of the kind, kept by their own countrymen, and where dishes were served in styles to suit their accustomed and peculiar appetites and fancies. There was an endless variety, too, in the character of the provisions furnished ; for besides the common products of the country, importations were constantly arriving from all sec- tions of the globe. Of game no other market ever furnished so great an abundance or so general an assortment. Bears, elks, deer, antelopes, hares, rabbits, squirrels, geese, ducks, quails, snipe, plovers, curlew, of a hundred species, came in from all parts of the country and covered the walls, floors and stalls of the market-houses. Vegetables indeed were scarce, but the ranches furnished no small amount of cattle ; and bottled and canned fruits, fowl, meats and oysters came in immense quan- tities from abroad. The bay and rivers produced fish of many sorts, and the shipping brought large quantities of every kind of salt provision. Still the demand was great, and the expense of preparation for the table enormous, so that the prices of living were necessarily extravagant. At such establishments as Del- monico's, the Sutter, Irving, Jackson, Franklin or Lafayette house, a gentleman for his dinner and wine would be taxed from five to a dozen dollars ; while at the meanest eating-rooms a very
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ordinary meal would cost from one to three dollars. At most restaurants the prices were graduated according to the quantity and quality of the food eaten ; and a bill of fare with the charge for each item was placed before the visitor. A roast duck would cost five dollars ; a broiled quail, two dollars ; a dozen canned oysters, one dollar ; a small piece of pork or mutton, seventy-five cents ; beef, the cheapest meat of the time, fifty cents ; a fresh egg, one dollar ; a potato, the size of a walnut, twenty-five cents ; bread, butter, vegetables, coffee, and other necessary articles to complete a meal, were charged for in proportion. At first pota- toes were rare articles, and it was no uncommon thing to see posted at the door of an eating-house, as an inducement for the hungry to enter, the announcement, "Potatoes to-day," or " Potatoes at every meal." It can readily be discerned, that, from want of the necessary apparatus and room for cooking, the inexperienced and indifferent character of the men employed as cooks, and the immense number of persons daily to be served in the most of these places, the greatest cleanliness was not gene- rally observed, and that very many devoured food of the precise character of which it was quite as well that they were kept in ignorance.
Besides the common eating-houses or restaurants, there were a number of fashionable saloons, where a delicate meal of small game or oysters could be obtained at exorbitant prices. These, too, were drinking-houses, and the resort in the evenings of those who had abundant means at their disposal, and were especially fond of luxurious living. They were generally kept by dashing females, or such were employed at high wages to decoy and enter- tain customers. Particular regard was paid to beauty and other attractions in their selection, and those who possessed the rarest charms to please, drew the most patronage and received the heaviest wages. Women were scarce in those days, and men were frequently willing to pay largely for the slight privilege of addressing one even in the way of business. Many, therefore, were attracted to these saloons more by a graceful figure and charming face, than the viands to be procured. It was quite a luxury to be spoken to and waited upon by a pretty girl. Not a few became the victims of these fascinating creatures, who were
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never slow in learning the value attached to their charms, or how to bring these to the most profitable market. The dupes were not always inexperienced young men, nor debauched old bache- lors. Many a man possessing an amiable wife and interesting children in the home from which he was temporarily separated, had his brains addled by the skilful management of these artful women. Money was foolishly squandered upon them in presents of jewelry and dress, and the reward of the giver in most instances was the gratification of an occasional deceitful word or smile, and the deep mortification of discovering at last that he had been outwitted, jilted and fooled. This sort of business was carried on to some considerable extent, and more than one saloon girl, who managed well their parts, have contrived to amass consider- able sums of money, by worming it out of the pockets of their vain and admiring dupes.
There was still another and far better class of establishments of the latter kind, the habitual visitors to which were people of a different character. Clayton's well known saloon, which still exists on Commercial street, was one of the first of these. Here the most respectable citizens repaired, to take their glass of punch or ale, a broiled quail or oyster stew, a cup of coffee, or whatever delicacy they might require. Here they would meet, undis- turbed by any thing offensive to the most refined habits and tastes, to talk over the affairs of the times, and spend an even- ing in a quiet and rational way. Still greater improvements were made in this line of business by that indefatigable and in- dustrious caterer, Mr. M. L. Winn. His "Fountain Head " became celebrated for its gentility and cleanliness, and more especially by the entire exclusion of all spirituous and intoxicat- ing drinks ; while his " Branch " at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets, would be a creditable establishment in the oldest and best regulated cities. This is a refectory of the highest order. It is a large saloon, and furnished in the most tasteful and elegant manner. It is also conducted on the strict- est temperance principles. No inebriating drinks are sold. Ice- creams, jellies, cakes, and other delicate refreshments are served, and the visitors embrace the most respectable ladies as well as gentlemen of the country.
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The history of the enterprising proprietor of these establish- ments would make an interesting chapter in these " Anuals," which
IS BRA
XTENSIONS
Winn's Branch.
want of roon will prevent our giving. The following account, however, of the extent of business transacted at the " Fountain Head " and " Branch," which we copy from the San Francisco " Commercial Advertiser " of 6th April, 1854, is too curious and important to be omitted :-
" The famous 'Fountain IIead,' was started in July, 1851, after the proprie- tor had been burned out twice, and losing every thing he owned in the world. The ' Branch.' at the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets, was first opened in January, 1853. We learn from Mr. Winn. that the average num- ber of persons entering his two establishments daily, to satisfy the cravings of hunger, are 3,000. He has 100 attachés to the two houses, at an average salary of $90 per month and boarded. The meat bill, per month, is $8,000 ; flour bill, $4.000; milk, $2,000; sugar, $3.00 ); butter, $200; other items necessary to carry on the two establishments, $5,000 ; rents in both places for one year, $54,000; improvements in both places during the last year, $31.000; can seat in both places 450 persons at one time; paid for ice and eggs last season, in five months, $23,000, more than has ever been paid in same length of time before or since ; has sold in one day 1,500 glasses ice cream. This
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was on July 4th, last year. Keeps 80 lights burning in both places every night ; oil bill, $500 per month; 1,000 flour barrels used to pack soda crackers to be sent into the country ; manufactures and sends into the country about 600 fifty pound boxes of candies ; packs from 200 to 300 boxes of crackers for country and city trade; takes every city and country newspaper in the State ; has paid in one month $1,600 for advertising and printing ; carpenter's bill has averaged $9,000 during the last twelve months; printer's bill in same time, about $3,000 ; has often fed 5,000 persons in one day ; upholsterer's bill for the last twelve months has been about $6,000 ; employs two draymen constantly ; had an agent in New York to ship stores, until they got so low here that it was found to be cheaper to buy them in California. Last year consumed daily about one hundred and twenty-five dozen of eggs; sells about $50 worth of oysters a day ; manufactures 100 gallons of Winn's golden syrup per month- not furnished to any but private families. Receipts at both houses average $57,000 per month, or a little short of $2,000 per day ; artesian well lately dug at the Fountain Head ; has paid before $200 per month for water ; is sell- ing confectionaries to go to all parts of the world, and occasionally packs a few boxes as specimens to New York and London ; has sold as high as 6,000 pounds of buckwheat in a month, made into cakes; has paid one man in his employ for 17 months' services $17,000 and board ; receives less custom on Sundays than week days ; bill for crockery and glassware for the last year, has been about $10,000 ; consumed $1,500 worth of coal in- one month ; has paid as high as $3,000 for potatoes in one month. Ice bill in one month has amounted to $2,000. All the above prices should be taken as the largest ex- penses in any one month ; sometimes they have been two-thirds less-for instance : has paid $5,000 per month for eggs, and as low as $1,000-other articles the same. Paid last year for taxes and licenses, $1,500.
"In addition to the above we are enabled to state that Mr. Winn has made very extensive donations for charitable purposes. Each day his expenses for feeding poor and hungry applicants in both of his establishments, amounts to $20. His known kindness in these matters sends crowds to him, from whom he never asks a dime. The sufferers by the Sacramento fire, and by the Inde- pendence, and by every public calamity, have been the recipients of his bounty. He has paid away in the last year, independent of the above, $7,000 for the support of ministers and churches.'
Mr. Winn, the conductor and proprietor of the "Fountain Head " and " Branch," arrived in San Francisco in 1849, with- out one cent in his pocket, and obtained his landing from the ship in which he sailed from Panama, by borrowing money for that purpose from a friend. He commenced business, by manu- facturing candy with his own hands, and carrying it through the streets upon a tray, supported over his shoulders by a pair of old suspenders. Many of the inhabitants in the fall of 1849, will
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remember his traversing the streets, with his stock in trade, cry- ing at the top of his humorous voice : "Here is your own Cali- fornia candy ! It has neither come' round the Horn, nor across the Isthmus-but is made in your own city ; and none but WINN can make it. Here it is !- buy it !- taste it, and try it !" Thus Mr. Winn began business. He soon acquired sufficient means to pay off old debts, and open a small store. This, with all his capital, was destroyed by fire ; but he persevered, and in despite of succeeding acci- dents and difficulties. is now doing a large and flourishing business. He has now a suc- cessor, or imitator in his early trade, in the person of a Frenchman, or the Turk, as he is called, who with tray and clapper, vends sweetmeats and Turk with sweetmeats. candies through the streets, the accompanying illustration of whom will be readily recognized by every citizen.
No place in the world contains any thing like the number of mere drinking-houses in proportion to the population, as San Francisco. This, perhaps, is the worst feature of the city. The quantity of ardent spirits daily consumed is almost frightful. It is peddled out in every gambling-room, on the wharves, at almost every corner, and in some streets, in almost every house. Many of the taverns are of the lowest possible description-filthy dens of vice and crime, disease and wretchedness. Drunken men and women, with bloated bodies and soiled garments, crowd them at night, making the hours hideous with their bacchanalian revels. Americans and Europeans, Mexicans and South-Americans, Chi- nese and even negroes, mingle and dissipate together, furnishing
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a large amount of business for the police department and the recorder's court. Bad spirits are swallowed at from one to two shillings per glass, and the motley assembly sing, dance, quarrel, fight, gamble, pick pockets, and indulge in every manner of vul- garity, lewdness and obscenity, to the music of a broken tambou- rine, a cracked fiddle, or a tuneless organ. From these pitiful dens there is a gradual ascent, through every varicty of grade of liquor-selling establishments, to houses of a highly respectable order. The Dutchman has his lager-bier cellar, the Frenchman his wine-room, the Englishman his pot-house, the politician his head-quarters, &c. The most of these drinking places, however, were but indifferently kept until, in March, 1852, Messrs. Barry & Patten opened a house in Mr. Brannan's fire-proof block on Montgomery street. This concern differed materially from all others of the kind in the city. The rooms were fitted up in the most superb and costly manner. Gambling was entirely excluded, and no lewd paintings decorated the walls. The lower floor was occupied as a bar-room and cigar stand. This was ornamented with chaste oil paintings, water-color pictures, and fine engravings in rich gilt frames. Splendid lamps and chande- liers lighted the saloon. The furniture generally was neat and handsome. Large mirrors were behind the bar, which was abund- antly furnished with rich cut-glass and silver ware. The finest and most delicate wines and liquors only were kept, and all the fancy beverages that were ever conceived were here concocted, while an inviting free lunch was daily set upon the table. In no other city could be found a more attractive place of the kind. The second floor was a spacious billiard-room, containing a num- ber of Thurston's celebrated English slate-bed tables. This house immediately became the resort of the most respectable gentlemen of San Francisco. The proprietors were gentlemen themselves, and their place was remarkable for its gentility. The expenses of this concern were enormous. The single article of ice alone, a small item, cost from fifty cents to a dollar a pound, and an immense quantity was consumed. Their rent was sixty dollars per day, and other expenses, exclusive of stock consumed in business, amounted to about one hundred dollars more. Still the conductors thrived and made money. Their house continues
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to be among the most popular and respectable in the country. We notice it thus especially, because it was the pioneer establishment of the kind. Many others of a like character, among which are the Bank Exchange, Allen & Parker's, Fisk & Patten's, &c., &c., have since sprung into existence.
San Francisco may be especially noticed for its numerous places of amusement. This is attributable to the fact already named, that homes here were scarce, and people sought abroad for pleasures to compensate for the want of that domestic satis- faction and social intercourse to which they had been accustomed in a different condition of society. Indeed, constant excitement of some sort or other seemed essential to the endurance of life in California. Hence, the extensive patronage given to balls, concerts, operas, and theatrical entertainments. The gambling- rooms were formerly the chief places of resort ; but as these became disreputable, other places were sought, of less objection- able character. Ten-pin alleys were consequently constructed, and billiard-tables set up in every part of the town. Of these there are now an immense number, and the extent of their patronage is astonishing.
The first Hotel deserving the name was erected in 1846, at the south-west corner of Clay and Kearny streets. This was the " City Hotel," a view of which is given on page 346 of this book. It was a long, one-story adobe building, with a verandah running along the entire Kearny street front. Until after the discovery of gold, this was the only public-house of any note in San Francisco. Soon after that period it was turned into a gambling-house, and became a famous place of resort for miners and others visiting the city. It was subsequently divided into many apartments, which were rented for offices, stores, drinking- rooms, barber-shops, and similar purposes. It was destroyed, much to the regret of the early inhabitants,-who desired to have it preserved as one of the relics of the olden time,-by the fourth great fire that swept over San Francisco.
In 1849, many hotels were opened ; but they were mostly of an inferior class, being little else than mere restaurants and lodging-houses. In this year the "Saint Francis," south-west corner of Clay and Dupont streets, was partially built, sundry
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improvements being added in the following year. This was a singular specimen of architecture, the lofty structure being formed from some dozen or a score of small houses originally in- tended for cottages. This was the fashionable house of the day. Here the élite of the city either boarded, or were accustomed to congregate, and it became the theatre of many rare and amusing
RESTAURANT
St. Francis IIotel, corner of Dupont and Clay strects.
scenes. The chambers were separated by the thinnest sort of board partitions, without either lath or plaster, and consequently but little privacy could be enjoyed by the lodgers. These by whispering too loudly, or talking too plain, frequently and un- consciously gave their neighbors intimations of facts which it was not intended, and, indeed, which it was quite improper should be known abroad. Hence, the house soon became as remarkable for stories of laughable incidents, and even tales of scandal, as for its ridiculous aristocratic pretensions. The building, though one of the loftiest and most inflammable in the city, escaped all
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