History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 19

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791

USA > Colorado > History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV > Part 19

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Railroads .- The first railroad survey in Garfield county was made in 1885, by Paul Blount, then in the employ of the Colorado Railway company, a corporation then organized in the interest of the Burlington and Missouri River R. R. company. The line of survey was from Denver up the South Boulder creek, crossing the range just north of James Peak, and following the Frazier river to the Grand; thence down the Grand to Grand Junction. Branch lines were also surveyed up the Roaring Fork to Aspen, and to the different coal mines in Jerome Park, Four Mile, Alkali, South Cañon and Rifle Creek, supplemented by a branch line up Elk and Rifle creeks, across to White river. During the summer of 1886 the Colorado railway, the Union Pacific, the Colorado Midland, and the Denver and Rio Grande companies all had engineer corps and grading camps in the canons of the county. The Colorado and the Union Pacific companies withdrew their forces the following year, leaving the field to the Colorado Midland and the Denver and Rio Grande. The latter was completed to Glenwood Springs in October, 1887, and was formally opened with a banquet at the Hotel Glenwood, Governor Alva Adams and staff and the officers of the company being present. The Colorado Midland was completed to Glenwood Springs the following December, and in the spring of 1888 it was extended to New Castle. In 1889 the Denver and Rio Grande company extended its road to Rifle, thirteen miles below New Castle, and in 1890 the Midland and the D. & R. G. companies combined and extended the track to Grand Junction, mak- ing a joint track from New Castle. The gauge of the D. & R. G. R. R. was widened at the same time, making it a standard gauge line. In 1892 the Elk Mountain R. R. Co. began grading its line from Sands, a station on the Colorado Midland, twelve miles above Glenwood Springs. The line passes up the Crystal river to the rich ore deposits and marble fiells near Crystal in Gunnison county. After finishing the grade to Marble, the company was unable to secure funds to lay its track, and the road was sokt to the contractors, Messrs. Orman & Crook, under a mechanics' lien. In the fall of the same year, the Crystal River Railway company started grading on its line from Carbondale on the D. & R. G. R. R., which parallels the Elk Moun-

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tain. In addition to the ore and marble of Gunnison county, the Crystal River R. R. company had a contract with the Colorado Fuel and Iron Co, to transport its coal and coke from Coal Basin in Pitkin county. The general depression in the summer of 1893 forced this company to suspend operations, after it had lain twelve miles of track.

Glenwood Springs was first settled in 1882 by John Blake, Isaac Cooper, Wm. Gelder and Frank Enzensperger. These gentlemen, with H. P. Bennet of Denver, subsequently organized the Defiance Town and Land company. The original name of the town was Defiance, but in 1883 it was changed to Glenwood Springs. The first house was built by Jno. C. Blake in 1883. Prior to that time the in- habitants lived in dugouts or tents. This was the first house built in the county, except a few miners' cabins in Carbonate. The first school in Glenwood Springs and in the county was taught by M. V. B. Blood, in 1883. The school house was a tent, located on what is now Grand avenue, near the site of the Hotel Glenwood. The St. James was the first hotel, erected by F. A. Barlow in 1883, and stood on the present site of the Hotel Yampa. In 1887 Mr. Barlow removed the St. James and built the Hotel Yampa, a four-story brick building, 75x75 feet. Prior to the erec- tion of this house, he had conducted a hotel and restaurant in a tent. Dick Donavan opened the first store in the county at Glenwood Springs in 1885, and sold it to Geo, Schram. The business is still conducted by Fred C. Schram, who took charge upon the death of his father. The first store building was erected by H. R. Kamm in 1884. It was a brick structure, and is still occupied by Kamm as a grocery. William Raglan built the first blacksmith shop, and Dr. Baldwin ran the first drug store. The latter was a house constructed on wheels, and had been used by a travel- ing photographer. In addition to practicing medicine, selling drugs, jewelry and notions, the doctor was a bricklayer and a general mechanic. A. J. Rock and J. B. Hardcastle were the pioneer carpenters. Mr. Rock was afterward elected sheriff of the county, and was drowned in the Grand river in 1885. Mr. Hardcastle now lives on a ranch in Pitkin county near Emma. The first post office in the county was established at Glenwood Springs, and was conducted by Mrs. Garrettson. The office was called Barlow. Barlow & Sanderson established the original stage line from Aspen to Glenwood Springs.

The Hotel Glenwood was built in 1884 by Messrs. Cooper, Gelder and Enzen- sperger. It was a frame structure, 50x50 feet, and two stories high. In 1885 they built the first part of the present Hotel Glenwood, 25x100 feet, and three stories high. The balance of the hotel was finished and opened to the public August 9th, 1886. It is a brick building, 75x100 feet, three stories high, with Mansard roof. It possesses all modern comforts and conveniences. Gelder and Enzensperger laid out an addition to Glenwood Springs but never sold any lots. In October, 1891, they disposed of all their property in the town to Mr. R. J. Bolles, In 1886, through the efforts of Mr. W. B. Devereaux, the Glenwood Light and Water Co. and the Colorado Land and Improvement Co. were organized. In December, 1886, the Glenwood Light and Water Co. began to supply the town with electric lights, In November, the same year, Isaac Cooper began laying pipes for a water-works sys- tem. He died in December, and the work was discontinued. The franchise was sold to the Glenwood Springs Light and Water Co. In 1888 the work was re- sumed, and a complete system of water pipes was laid. The electric light wires were extended, and a water-power plant put in to operate the dynamos in place of steam. The water for the town was brought from No-Name creek. The Colorado Land and Improvement Co. began the improvement of the springs and bath houses. The springs were walled in and placed in a condition so the waters could all be utilized. The mammoth swimming pool, 150x600 feet, was built in an old channel of the river, and thoroughly protected from high water and floods. The magnificent stone bath house, costing $200,000, followed. The Natural Sweat Cave was im-

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proved and enlarged, and commodious dressing and lounging rooms added. In all, about $400,000 was spent by the company in betterments during the summer. In August, 1892, the construction of the Colorado, the largest hotel in the state, except the Brown Palace at Denver, was commenced. Situated on the north side of the river, the hotel overlooks the town, the baths and the grounds of the company ; was completed June 15th, 1893, and opened under the management of Mr. Walter Raymond.

Banks. - The first bank was established in 1885 by Geo. Arthur Rice & Co. It was a private institution with a capital of $10,000. They continued the business until December Ist, 1887, when a consolidation with the Glenwood National Bank was effected. The First National Bank of Glenwood Springs started in business in the spring of 1887, with W. B. Devereaux as president, and J. H. Fesler, cashier. The capital stock was $100,000. During the summer of 1887, the bank building, 50x100 feet and three stories high, was erected. The doors of the Glenwood National Bank were opened June Ist, 1887, with Jno. L. McNcil, president, and C. N. Greig as cashier. December Ist, 1887, the Glenwood National purchased the business of Geo. Arthur Rice & Co., and in the summer of 1891 the bank was consolidated with the First National. The Bank of New Castle was organized in March, 1889, by W. J. Miller, J. W. Ross and Paul Blount, with a capital of $10,000. In August, the same year, Mr. Miller sold his interest to Mr. Ross. May Ist, 1893, Ross and Blount sold to Miller and J. T. McLean, and in July following they made an assignment to J. W. Ross. The Bank of Carbondale began operations in 1888, with a capital of $10,000. Mr. S. B. Eubanks was cashier. In November, 1891, the building of the bank was burned. The safe and contents were saved, and in a few days the business was resumed.

Newspapers .-- The first newspaper published in the county was the Ute "Chief," a weekly, started in the fall of 1885, by J. S. Swan and W. J. Reid. In the spring of 1888, B. Clark Wheeler of Aspen began the publication of the Glenwood "Echo," with James L. Riland as manager. Mr. Riland was succeeded by Win. Cardwell. In December. 1887, the first daily appeared-The Daily "News," edited by H. J. Holmes. A few days later the Ute "Chief" appeared as a daily. In the fall of 1888, the two were consolidated and conducted for a few months as the Ute "Chief-News." The plant was leased to F. P. Warner, James L. Riland and F .H. Myers, who changed the name to the New "Empire." In the spring of 1889, Geo. C. Banning purchased the plant, added new presses and material, and changed the name to the Glenwood Springs "Republican." W. H. Graenhalgh became managing editor. In the fall of 1889, it was sold to Lee, Eaton and Myers, who ran it until 1891, when they disposed of it, selling to Wm. Cardwell, who discon- tinued it as a daily. In December. 1892, the name was again changed to the People's "Herald," and is still published under that name. In 1888, Frank P. Beslin, the blind editor from Red Cliff, started the Carbondale "Avalanche," a weekly. It was sold to H. J. Holmes, who continued to publish it until April, 1891, when he moved the paper to Glenwood Springs. In May he began publishing it as a daily. Early in 1893, J. S. Swan started the Glenwood Springs "Weekly Ledger," which was changed June Ist to a semi-weekly. January Ist, 1894, his interest was purchased by W. J. Wills, who still conducts it. Upon the purchase of the "Republican" by Wm. Cardwell, James Coughlin assumed charge of the "Echo" and conducted it a few months, when the plant was sold to H. J. Holmes, who consolidated it with the Weekly "Avalanche." In 1889 Mr. Holmes started the Rifle "Revielle," a weekly, which was under the management of H. B. Swartz. In 1890, Swartz and J. W. Armstrong became the owners. In 1888 Gen. Geo. West of the Golden "Transcript," in company with J. W. Work, began the publica- tion of the New Castle "Nonpareil" (a weekly) at New Castle, with Mr. Work as manager. A year later it was sold to S. M. White, who changed the name to the

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Grand Valley "Cactus." F. C. Coryell became the proprietor in 1891, the paper was issued as a daily, which was continued about a year, when it was published only as a weekly. In the spring of 1893, G. B. Henderson published the New Castle "News," a weekly, which he sold to C. A. Henrie, who is still the proprietor.

Crimes and Tragedies .- About the first of September, 1885, occurred the first murder that was committed in Glenwood Springs. Elijah Cravens and Geo. Ford got into an altercation over a game of cards, which terminated in an encounter in which Cravens was worsted. He went to his cabin, about half a mile from the saloon where the difficulty took place, armed himself with a revolver, returned and shot Ford, killing him. The murder caused great excitement and threats of lynch- ing were indulged. The prisoner was strongly guarded day and night, until after his preliminary examination, when he was taken to Leadville to await his trial. After several continuances and delays, he was finally tried at Aspen on a change of venue in 1888, found guilty of involuntary manslaughter and served one year in the county jail. In December, 1887, Chester Baker, a gambler, known as "Texas Kid," became involved in a fight with another gambler in a saloon, and drawing his pistol, fired twice at his opponent. The first shot killed an onlooker, and the second a stranger who was quietly reading a paper in the rear of the saloon. Baker's an- tagonist was not hurt. At his examination, the affair was declared to be an acci- dent, and he was released. In the fall of 1885, Harry Burrows located on a ranch two miles east of Carbondale. While temporarily absent, Mike Ryan and Daniel Fenton took possession of the premises, and when Burrows returned and found his ranch in possession of the two men, he shot them from ambush, killing both. At his trial, the jury returned a verdiet of justifiable homicide, and he was acquitted. In July, 1888, Herman C. Babcock shot and killed James Riland, an old man, seventy-six years of age. At his trial he was found guilty of murder and sentenced to be hanged. A few days before the day appointed for his execution, he was granted a new trial, and finally sent to the penitentiary for eight years.

Early Settlers .- Isaac Cooper settled in Glenwood Springs in 1882, and was president of the Defiance Town and Land company, and the founder of the town. He died in Glenwood Springs, December 2nd, 1887. William Gelder came to the Springs in 1882, and was vice-president of the same company. He was elected to the state senate in 1888, and now resides in Denver. Frank Enzensperger became a citizen of the town in 1882. He moved to Salt Lake in 1891, where he is now in business. W. H. Bradt, H. R. Kamm, Richard Grant, Geo. C. Banning, J. G. Pease and Jno. W. Ritter located in the town in 1883. Jno. L. Noonan and H. T. Sale settled on a ranch adjoining Glenwood Springs; the former in 1883, and the latter in 1885. J. L. Hodges located in the town in November, 1884, when he was appointed the first register of the land office, with J. W. Ross of Del Norte as receiver. The office was established November 10th, 1884. Jasper Ward and Perry C. Coryell settled upon ranches in 1883: Geo. B. Hurlbut and Wm. Dinkel on ranches in 1882, and George Yule in 1884.

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GRAND COUNTY.

MIDDLE PARK-TAKEN FROM UTE INDIANS-A FAMOUS HUNTING GROUND-GENERAL DESCRIPTION-GLOWING ACCOUNT BV BAYARD TAVLOR-SCENIC SPLENDORS- STREAMS-HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS-EARLV SETTLERS-DETAILS OF AN AWFUL MASSACRE-ONE OF THE MOST HORRIBLE TRAGEDIES EVER COMMITTED IN THE STATE.

Grand county, which takes its name from the Grand river, was created by an act of the territorial legislature, approved February 2nd, 1874. It was severed from the northern part of Summit county, and the seat located at Hot Sulphur Springs, on Grand river. It is now bounded on the north by Larimer, south by Clear Creek, Summit and Eagle, east by Gilpin, Boulder, Clear Creek and Larimer, and west by Routt. Its area is 2, 100 square miles, and, by the census of 1890, had a population of 604, an increase of 187 in the preceding decade. Originally, this county embraced both Middle and North Parks. In 1877 the western part was segregated and Routt county organized. The Middle Park, or the present county, was the favorite home and hunting ground of the northern Ute Indians. In 1868, by treaty previously concluded, these lands were relinquished. The Utes parted with this country very reluctantly, and it was only after a long struggle that they were induced to relocate on a reservation provided for them on White river. Prior to the invasion of the Park by white settlers, quadruped and other game abounded- elk, deer, mountain sheep, antelope, buffalo and all varieties of bear, including grizzlies; grouse, sage hens, ducks, geese, turkeys, etc., whereby it will be readily understood that the savages were extremely averse to its abandonment. It was, in reality, the best hunting range in all the mountain region. It is watered by Grand river, a large and noble stream, fed by many strong tributaries; a beautiful and picturesque basin well grassed, and the mountains which surround it on all sides are heavily timbered. It is a lovely place in summer, and the winters are not rigor- ous except upon the ranges; there the snows fall to great depths. But one of the principal attractions to the Indians was the large hot sulphur spring, to which they resorted for the cure of various ailments; a broad circular pool of hot steaming water, strongly impregnated with sulphur, soda and other minerals. It is fed by a constant flow from smaller springs in the neighboring hillside. The temperature is ITO degrees Fahrenheit. Trout swarmed in all the streams, and Grand lake, in which Grand river takes its rise, contains thousands of these beau- tiful fish.

In the melting seasons Grand river runs full to the height of its banks. The Park being a sheltered retreat, well nigh inaccessible to their enemies, the plains Indians, and possessing all the advantages which an Indian desires, it is not sur- prising that the Utes should have made vigorous efforts to retain it. When the Pike's Peak immigration came, and towns and trading posts were established, they

HENRY LEL

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16 TH ST.

WAZEE ST.

MAMMOTH ESTABLISHMENT OF HENRY LEE, DENVER.

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brought out the furs and skins of animals they captured to exchange for coveted goods. Nevava, a brave and wise old man, was the chief of these tribes.

The valley of the Grand is very fertile, a fine grazing region, but not well adapted to agriculture because of the altitude, shortness of growing season and cool nights. Yet in certain quarters considerable tracts have been put under culti- vation, ditches having been taken out to irrigate them. In 1889. there were about 1,500 acres in grain and vegetables, wholly for local consumption. The Park is approximately fifty miles wide from east to west, by ninety miles in length north to south, embracing, in addition to agricultural and grazing lands, large deposits of iron, coal, petroleum, lime, granite and sandstones, with considerable belts of lodes bearing gold, silver, lead and copper, with some extensive placers. On all the mountain slopes are immense forests of pine and spruce timber. No part of this region has been touched by a constructed railway, though the Burling- ton & Missouri River company have surveyed and partly graded a line along the Grand valley. The first railway line surveyed and located in the Territory of Colorado was by engineer Edward L. Berthoud, who, in May, 1861, began at Golden City, twelve miles west of Denver, passed up Clear creek, or Vasquez river, to Berthoud Pass, down the western slope into the Park, and thence to Hot Sulphur Springs. During the same year he ran another line, but practically over the same route, to Gorés Pass, thence to Bear and Snake rivers, to Williams Fork and on to Salt Lake City, as more fully set forth in the history of Jefferson county, Volume III, page 503. In 1865 General Bela M. Hughes partly constructed a stage road for Holladay's Overland Express from Salt Lake, via Green river to Middle Park, but it was never occupied, indeed never completed.

Grand county unquestionably is the better unoccupied portion of Colorado for railway purposes, including local traffic. It forms the shortest route from Denver to Salt Lake and Ogden. When penetrated by steel thoroughfares, it will become one of the great centers of production. The fact that it has no connection with the outer world, no outlet for its native resources except by long and rugged wagon roads over lofty ranges, has prevented multitudes from settling there. The main tributaries of Grand river are the Troublesome, Muddy, the Blue, Williams and Frazier. As already stated, the Grand heads in Grand lake, a large sheet of pure, cold water, situated in the northeasterly part of the county, and, flowing southwesterly, unites with the Gunnison at Grand Junction in Mesa county.

As early as 1859 the hot sulphur springs were located, and in some sense claimed by William N. Byers, founder of the Rocky Mountain "News," who still retains them. In future time when the Park shall be traversed by railway trains. it will be made one of the chief sanitariums of the state. Mr. Byers has covered the main spring with a stone bath house. It is a superb fount of health-giving waters, where many remarkable cures have been effected. In 1866 Bayard Taylor made a pedestrian tour of this region and thus describes it in one of his letters:

"The sun came out, the clouds lifted and rolled away, and one of the most remarkable landscapes of the earth was revealed to our view. The valley of the Blue, which for a length of 30 miles, with a breadth ranging from five to ten, lay under our eyes, wore a tint of pearly silver-gray upon which the ripe green of the timber along the river and the scattered gleams of water seemed to be enameled. Opposite to us, above the sage color, rose huge mountain foundations, where the grassy openings were pale, the forests dark, the glens and gorges filled with shadow, the rocks tonehed with lines of light, making a checkered effect that suggested cultivation and settlement. Beyond this were wild ridges, all forests; then bare masses of rock streaked with snow, and highest, bleak snow pyramids piercing the sky. From north to south stretches the sublime wall-the western boundary of Middle Park-and where it fell away toward the canon by which the Grand river goes forth to seek the Colorado, there was a vision of dim, rosy peaks a hundred

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miles distant. In breadth of effect, in airy depth and expansion, in simple yet most majestic outline, and in originality yet exquisite harmony of color, this landscape is unlike anything I have ever seen. There is a great vertical grandeur among the Alps; here it is the vast, lateral extent which impresses you, together with atmospheric effect occasioned by great elevation above the sea."

Blue river, a magnificent stream, it may be observed in passing, rises under the shadow of Mount Lincoln, in the extreme south end of the Park. For twenty- five miles its tributaries are numerous, among them the Snake, Swan and French on the right, and Ten Mile on the left. The latter and the Snake empty into the Blue opposite one another, twenty-four miles from its source and ten miles below Breckenridge.

The first officers of Grand county were: Clerk and recorder, C. H. Hook; treasurer, W. N. Brown; county judge, David Young; sheriff, John Baker; assessor, Charles Fuller. The other offices were not filled.

A great belt of gold and silver mines, a few of which have been opened, are situated in the Rabbit Ear range, northwesterly from Hot Sulphur Springs. Some gold placers above Hahn's Peak, now in Routt county, have been worked with very profitable results in past years. The silver mines on Rabbit Ear, especially the Wolverine, Endomide and a few others, have been sufficiently developed to demonstrate the strength of the veins and the value of the ores. These mines, however valuable they may be, can not be made profitable until facilities for reach- ing markets by rail shall have been supplied, and the same is true of all the other resources.

William N. Bvers and a trapper named Charles Utter, a bright, handsome and rather lively little fellow, known to all the early residents of the territory, were among the first to build cabins on Grand river. John S. Jones, whose family resided at Empire, owned some land near Utter's place. Byers built a small log house at Hot Sulphur Springs in 1859. Another pioneer named J. L. Wescott went from Empire to these springs in 1865 and has ever since made Middle Park his home. He built the first cabin at Grand lake in 1867.

We are now impelled to record a series of events filled with contention, blood- shed and horror. In approaching the subject I am aware that no account, how- ever accurate, written at this late day, will be accepted by all parties as a true narrative of the appalling tragedy, owing to the irreconcilable divisions of public sentiment that led up to it, traces of which exist to this day although many, indeed most of the surviving actors, have removed from the county .** Nevertheless, the particulars following will be found correct in the main.

In 1874, when the county was created, Hot Sulphur Springs was the only settlement, and that a very small one. There were some herds of cattle and horses, and a few widely separated cabins along Grand river below the springs. In that year, however, a prospector, named Sandy Campbell, discovered a belt of excellent gold and silver mines in the Rabbit Ear range. From these developed, in due course, a considerable degree of activity which lasted a few years, then, be- cause of their extreme isolation, died away. Rumors of Campbell's find brought numerous accessions to the population. Among the residents at this time were Charles W. Royer, Charles H. Hook, Wm. S. Chamberlin and John H. Stokes. Among the later arrivals were William Redman, his brother, Bass Redman, Capt. T. J. Dean and others. The personal feuds, political and faetional disturbances which led to fearful disorders and finally to wholesale murder began in 1877, and raged with constantly increasing bitterness until after the closing act in the

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History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 19

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company Publication date: 1889-95 Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co. Number of Pages: 791

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791