History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 26

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791

USA > Colorado > History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV > Part 26

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There are two public parks, one in the principal town, the second in the north section. The secret societies are represented by the Masons, with a blue lodge, Royal Arch chapter and Ivanhoe commandery No. 11. Knights Templar; P. O. S. of A .; the Odd Fellows: Knights of Pythias, and A. O. U. W. The Durango Gentleman's club has a fine suite of rooms well furnished, with a small but well selected library.

The U. S. land office was established here by an order issued by Hon. Henry M. Teller, Secretary of the Interior, dated April 20th, 1882. It was opened for business October 2nd following, by Major D. L. Sheets, register, and Willard S. Hickox, receiver. Their terms expired September Ist, 1886, and they were suc- ceeded by Dr. Edmund T. Pittman and Richard McCloud. December Ist, 1889, Major Sheets was appointed receiver and Hon. Ben Wade Ritter, register. The land district now embraces all of La Plata, Montezuma, Archuleta and San Juan counties, the greater part of Dolores, taking in the mineral lands, the more valuable districts of Ouray, San Miguel and Hinsdale, with a small area of agricultural land in Rio Grande county. The district is about 145 miles long by 75 in width.

Banks .- The Bank of Durango was established by John L. McNeil, for Daniels, Brown & Co., in 1881, as a branch of their house at Alamosa. In 1885

H. C. DOLL

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they purchased the charter of the First National, and the two were merged into the present bank of that name. A. P. Camp is president, John L. McNeil, vice-presi- dent, and Win. P. Vaile, cashier. The capital, surplus and undivided profits aggregate $70,000.

The Colorado State Bank was organized December 29th, 1886, by Frederick L. Kimball, Benjamin N. Freeman, Thos. F. Burgess, Win. E. Morgan and Jas. H. Hoskins, Jr. Its capital is $30,000. F. L. Kimball, president; Major D. L. Sheets, vice-president; B. N. Freeman, cashier; F. W. Strater, assistant.

The water supply of the city is pumped from the Animas river above the town. There is one large flouring mill, iron works, several lumber yards, brick yards, dairies and creameries, lime kilns, granite and sandstone quarries in and near the city. Large deposits of iron ore are found in the near neighborhood.

The municipal officers in 1891 were: Mayor, J. H. McHolland; treasurer, F. W. Strater; clerk, F. Gallotti; aldermen, E. J. H. Amy, Joseph Clark, W. S. Croke, L. E. Dickson, Harry Jackson, H. R. Ricker, J. C. Sanford, Fred Steineger; city solicitor, Reese McClosky; police magistrate, Cyrus F. Newcomb.

Smelters .- The works of the San Juan Smelting and Mining company are situated adjoining the town near the river to the southwest. E. J. H. Amy is the manager. The original plant was built at Silverton by Green & Co., in 1880, but not prospering there, in 1882 it was moved to Durango, where it has undergone various changes and enlargements. These works were built by J. H. Ernest Waters of Telluride. April Ist, 1888, the company was reorganized in New York, with H. Amy, president: J. A. Davidson, secretary and treasurer; J. A. Porter, execu- tive advisor, and Ernest J. H. Amy, manager. The present capital stock is $2,000,- 000. Its supply of ores comes from the mining region of Silverton, Ouray, Rico, Telluride and other points of the upper country. The company owns coal mines and coke ovens, hence it is always furnished with cheap fuel and of the best quality, as will appear later on. It has two water jackets and eight calciners, and handles from go to 100 tons of ore daily. During 1800 some 20,000 tons were smelted. This is the only concern of its class in the southwestern country, and it is very fortunately situated with reference to water, fuel and ores. Its coal mine is located on the mountain side within a few hundred yards of its furnaces. The coal seam is three and a half to four feet thick. A tramway from the tunnel opening runs to the base of the hill where there are 12 beehive coke ovens, whence the smelters are furnished a superior article of coke, the best for the purpose, according to Mr. Any's opinion, that is produced in Colorado. From the ovens the fuel is conveyed in tram-cars direct to the stacks. By this very convenient arrangement the San Juan company possesses better facilities for the economical reduction of ores than any other establishment in the state. It is clear to every careful observer of the situation that Durango, by virtue of its advantages of location as the natural seat and capital of the entire San Juan mining country, must soon become a strong center of the smelting industry. All railroads and highways of every sort from the mines of La Plata, San Juan, Ouray, Telluride and Rico, unquestionably the more extensive and richer portion of the state in minerals, lead down hill to Durango. To illustrate: Otto Mears' Rainbow Route from Fronton to Silverton commands the products of Ouray and San Juan counties. The Rio Grande Southern com- mands all of San Miguel and Dolores counties, and the terminus of the road is at Durango. The terminus of the Silverton branch of the Denver & Rio Grande is at the same point. With these facts in view, united with the vast advantage of cheap fuel, and, further, the great reduction of transportation charges from the present cost of freighting these ores to Pueblo and Denver, the conclusion named seems well founded. The miners comprehend the difference and will avail themselves of the cheaper rate. Otto Mears and his associates built their two railways for the express purpose of controlling the ore traffic. Being independent of the Denver &

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Rio Grande company, they will naturally control the haul on all the ores within their jurisdiction, which means that they will deliver them at Durango. Should the older company be inclined to make trouble for them on the Silverton line, it would be an easy matter to extend the Rainbow road down the Animas river to Durango, when they would be undisputed masters of the situation. Thousands of tons of ore that are not now sufficiently valuable to bear the cost of shipment to Pueblo or Denver can be readily and profitably marketed at the nearer point just designated. The business of concentrating will become general. Instead of hauling ores, the Rio Grande road will be reduced to the necessity of loading its cars with bullion.

But to carry out this sweeping revolution, the erection of new smelters and the opening of active competition in the purchase of minerals will be necessary The San Juan company, stimulated by new railway connections and the largely increased production of minerals, is rapidly enlarging its plant A new smelting company has been organized and during 1892 should have its furnaces in operation. Others may follow. The entire business community is fully alive to the opportunity thus presented. When consummated, Durango will become one of the strongest and best towns in the state.

Coal Mines .- In his report for 1886, State Inspector John McNeil, in review- ing the coals of La Plata county, says: "Extensive coal beds are found to underlie the greater part of the county. It is principally bituminous and well adapted for coking, as has been demonstrated by the quantities that have been coked in the beehive ovens owned by the San Juan Smelting company from the various seams in proximity to Durango. A great many openings have been made along the mountain sides, where the coal crops out in abundance in numerous seams of varying thickness and qualities. In places over 1,000 feet of coal formation- geologically known as the Fox Hills group-are exposed to view." Not less than 600 men are employed in and about the several coal mines. The Porter Coal Co. owns 500 acres of coal land in Wild Cat Canon, four miles from Durango, on the Rio Grande Southern, and also about the same amount on the La Plata river ad- joining the Fort Lewis Military Reservation, 14 miles distant. The San Juan com- pany owns 275 acres within a mile of Durango and its mines are connected with the D. & R. G. R. R .; the La Plata company owns 640 acres, four miles east of the city, connected with the D. & R. G. by a branch at Florida station. The City coal mine in Horseshoe Gulch is only a mile and a quarter from the city. The Black Diamond is two miles northeast and the Champion one and a half miles southwest. There are several other smaller mines at different points. The production for 1890 was 33.045 tons. These facts are given to indicate the wide distribution of the coal measures. The veins are from three to eight feet thick. Just over the line, west, in Montezuma county, there are immense deposits of coal; of limestone and iron there seems to be endless abundance. Therefore, if the people of La Plata county fail to take advantage of the wonderful gifts with which nature has supplied them, they will be the blindest community of men of which we have any record. According to Mr. Amy, the coal from the San Juan company's mine yields 57 per cent. of coke per ton.

In the upper Animas valley the Seth Sackett ranch has a beautiful orchard set with apple, plum and cherry trees, all in the bearing stage, together with gardens containing all the smaller fruits. Mr. Richard E. Gaines secured a homestead there in 1875, the second in priority of residence. The G. W. Hadin ranch consists of 480 acres. One of the finest in the valley is the "Home ranch," eight miles above Durango, owned by the Lamb estate, where there are extensive fruit orchards, dairies, canning and packing works, etc., whence the city receives a considerable part of its supplies. At the head of the valley is the Ambold ranch of 320 acres.

The county is splendidly watered by the Animas, Pine, La Plata and Florida

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(the latter so named from the great quantity of beautiful flowers along its banks), Cherry creek, Vallecito and several other streams. The Fort Lewis Military Reservation, occupied by one company of U. S. troops, is situated in the south- west corner of the county, just west of Durango, adjoining the Indian Reservation. It was established by executive order January 27th, 1882.

While the production is not large, La Plata occupying a minor place in the mineral producing system of the San Juan region, gold, silver, copper and lead are found in the California, La Plata and Needle mountains. About 75 miners are employed upon 26 mines opened, but in 1890, according to the state inspector's report, only six were producing mineral and those not in large quantities.

The present officers of La Plata county are as follows: Clerk and recorder, George Weaver: sheriff, Will T. Longnecker; county judge, Henry Garbanati; treasurer, John F. Bell; assessor, WV. N. Bagby; surveyor, (). L. Omohundro; superintendent of schools, C. A. Pike; coroner, T. Peterson; district judge, George T. Sumner; clerk of the court, George N. Raymond; county commissioners, R. H. McFadden, W. T. Bailes. The third district is vacant.

Schools .- By the census of 1890 the total school population of the county was 1,056, with an enrollment of 745, and an average daily attendance of 432. There were 16 districts and the same number of school houses, with 760 sittings. The value of school property was $32,079.

The Assessed Valuation of Taxable Property for 1890 was $2,008,717. The list contains the following: Agricultural lands, 23,315 acres, valued at $210,736; graz- ing lands, 28,380 acres; horses, 2,519; mules, 210; cattle, 13.836.

Old Animas City, the original point of settlement, is about three miles north of Durango. Many of the first log cabins still remain. The site is very attractive, near the Animas river. There are few signs of improvement, its great rival below having absorbed, as it will continue to do, all the commerce and life and activity of the region. The survey of the town site was completed September 21st, 1876, by Ira H. Smith, and the plat filed October roth following. The survey was assisted by John F. Hechman who, with Major Scott J. Anthony, transcribed the mining district records when the county was divided from San Juan. Passing on up the valley en route to Silverton, the train stops at Trimble Springs (discovered by and named for Frank Trimble), seven miles from Durango, where the valley broadens. It is a beautiful spot; the scenie surroundings grand and sublime. The owner, Mr. T. D. Burns, of Terra Amarilla, built a fine hotel there, with bath houses. The grounds are embellished with shade trees, lawns and flowers, making it a lovely quiet retreat for invalids. Hermosa, a few miles above, in a broad, rich valley, blooming with all manner of crops, is a delightful picture of rural loveliness. Rockwood is 18 miles above Durango, in a forest of pine timber, simply a railroad station, whence led the old primitive trails to Rico, now supplanted by the Rio Grande Southern railway.

At the time of my visit the only newspaper in La Plata county was the Durango Daily "Herald," published by Geo. N. and M. Raymond, an excellent journal and a forceful representative of the enterprise and intelligence of that ad- mirable community. Mr. George Raymond is also clerk of the district court. I am indebted to these gentlemen for many courtesies and to their files for many interesting notes.

In conclusion, my observations of La Plata county may be tersely summarized in the statement that its prospects for the future are in the highest degree favorable to a large and prosperous settlement. Leaving its gold and silver mines out of the question, the great extent and excellence of its coals, the production of its farms, its quarries of lime, granite and sandstone, deposits of iron ores, its splendid water courses, its great forests of timber, and, above and beyond all, its advantages for the location of large reduction works, are sufficient to attract and must inevitably acquire

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millions of new capital and thousands of industrious people in the next few years. The climate is not rigorous even in the severest of winters, and in the spring, summer and autumn it is delightful. The enormous snow falls, of which so much has been written, occur above in the higher ranges of mountains, and below on the Conejos range on the eastern slopes. We have shown, by the luxuriance of its agriculture and the promise of its horticulture, the general salubrity of that part of the western slope, warmed by sunshine, blossoming with flowers and rejoicing in plenty, the prevailing error that Durango and the Animas valley in their incom- parable beauty are snow and ice bound in winter. As a matter of fact, the people of the northern, and measurably of the southern, divisions of the state have but little true comprehension of the marvelous attractiveness of its scenery, nor of the extent of mineral treasure found there in the great ranges of the San Juan. I found it one of the great treasure houses of the commonwealth. It has taken years to develop its resources, but some of the richer have now been opened, and the outpouring of wealth into the channels of trade from that quarter should be large and continuous through all succeeding years.

LARIMER COUNTY.

THE STORY OF ANTOINE JANISE THE TRAPPER-ORIGINAL OCCUPANTS OF LA PORTE -INDIANS AND TRADERS-CHRISTENING OF THE CACHE-LA-POUDRE-OLD FORT WALBRACH-A SETTLEMENT OF MOUNTAINEERS WITH SQUAW WIVES -- PRIMITIVE CAMPS-FORT COLLINS- THE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE - IRRIGATION - FIRST CANALS-BIG AND LITTLE THOMPSON-HOW THEY WERE NAMED, ETC.

The principal settlements of Larimer county, one of the most fertile and pro- ductive agricultural sections of northern Colorado, are situated on a beautiful stream called the Cache-la-Poudre, and upon two others known as Big and Little Thompson creeks, whereof some interesting incidents may be related from the primitive epoch, years anterior to the period of gold seeking which induced our generation to enter and occupy the Rocky Mountains. One of the "ancient" chronicles relates to a party of French traders and trappers who were journeying through the country and carrying heavy burdens of goods designed for barter with roving bands of Indians, who camped a few days near the present site of the town of Laporte. To lighten their packs before entering the mountains, such goods as could be well spared, and among them some canisters of rifle powder, were cached or secreted in a pit excavated in a large bank of sand, to be recovered and disposed of on their return. The spot was marked for identification, and the stream designated Cache-la-Poudre, signifying the place where the powder had been cached. Traces of this historic spot remained until recent years and were known to all the inhabitants round about.

So far as we have any record. the first settlers in that region, and probably the first except the builders of old Fort St. Vrain, who established that post about 1835 in northern Colorado, was a French trapper named Antoine Janise, who established a camp and land claim adjoining the present Laporte on the west, and had his title thereto confirmed by the Indians. In a letter to the editor of the Fort Collins "Courier" dated March 17th, 1883, written from Pine Ridge Indian Agency in re- sponse to an inquiry concerning his personal recollections of the valley, he says: "In regard to the early history of the Poudre valley, I will state that as one of the

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party (that made the original location), I have in my possession all the facts relating to the first settlement, including the names of the persons, days and dates. On the first of June, 1844, I stuck my stake on a claim in the valley, intending the location selected for my home should the country ever be settled. At that time all the streams were very high, and the country black with buffalo. As far as the eye could reach, scarcely anything but buffalo could be seen. I was just returning from Mexico, and thought the Poudre valley the loveliest place on earth, and have not since changed my opinion. The gold fever broke out in 1858 (referring to Green Russell and the Cherokee expedition). Soon after locating my claim, I moved over from Laramie and settled upon it. The place is just above Laporte. One hundred and fifty lodges of Arapahoes moved there with me at the time. They asked me if I wanted to settle there. I told them I did. Bald Wolf, the chief, then called a council of his braves, and they finally gave us permission to locate there, and donated to us all the land from the foot of the mountains to the mouth of Box Elder creek (which is about eight miles from the mountains). My associates in the donation were Elbridge Gerry and Nicholas Janise. In the winter of 1858-59 set- tlers and prospectors came flocking in. A town company was formed, consisting of Nicholas, Gerry, Todd, Randall, Raymond, John Batiste, Oliver Morisette, Antoine Lebeau, B. Goodwin, Ravofire and others, who located a town site and called it Colona (changed subsequently to Laporte). We had the site surveyed and mapped, and built fifty houses or cabins. I was born at St. Charles, Missouri, March 26th, 1824, and came first to what is now Colorado in 1844. It would con- sume too much time and space to give all the particulars and interesting incidents connected with the first settlement of the Poudre valley, and my health is such that I dare not undertake the task." This letter may be accepted as a brief but authentic record of the original settlement and of the first town site regularly established in northern Colorado.

The following notes were furnished the author by Mr. George A. Jackson, discoverer of Jackson's Bar in Clear Creek county. In his own words the story is told: "In the spring of 1858 1 came over from old Fort Laramie with a party conveying goods for trade with the Indians at old John Smith's trading post on Cherry creek. There were in the party twenty-five Ogallalah Sioux under Chief Swift Bird, a brother-in-law of Antoine Janise; Chief Chaka, Swift Bird's lieutenant: Big Phil (John Gardner), Oliver Schofield, Antoine Lebeau, Nick Janise and his family-a Snake squaw and children-Jose Merrival, a Spaniard, and a half-breed boy who drove the cattle attached to our trading wagons. We came up Cheyenne Pass where a detachment of U. S. troops, about 250 in number, under command of a major, were building Fort Walbrach in the pass, where also some Soo Cheyennes were encamped. The result of this meeting was that we sold out all our goods and went back to Fort Laramie for another stock. Coming back, at the crossing of the Cheyenne trail over the Cache-la-Poudre, we met 500 to 600 Indians. Ni Wot's band of Arapahoes and Big Mouth's Cheyennes camped there, to whom we sold all of our second stock of goods. Here we also met Jim Sanders, Chat Debray and Rocky Thomas, who joined our party. Antoine Janise and other trappers were encamped on the Cache-la-Poudre." From Fort Walbrach they prospected all the streams they came to for gold, but the first of any consequence obtained was on what was then known as the Benito Fork of the St. Vrain. On reaching Cherry creek, they found Green Russell's company prospecting along the streams about the present site of Denver. After a short time at John Smith's post, they proceeded to the North Fork of the Vasquez river (now Ralston creek), where they found some gold, but soon returned to the Cache-la-Poudre. The remainder of Jackson's adventures and discoveries have been related in Volume 1, page 187.

Mr. A. F. Howes, a brother-in-law of General Carlos Buell, now residing at Fort Collins, states that he reached Denver in 1860, and after it had been de-

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termined by Congress to build a Pacific railroad, he, in order to avail himself of the advantages to be derived from that highway, determined to search for the most feasible pass through the mountains, and when satisfied on that point, to settle down at the most natural pass for the future great city of the plains. In pursuit of this enterprise he followed along the base of the mountains to the crossing of the Cache- la-Poudre, where he found a small settlement of mountaineers, who had formerly been employed, first as hunters and trappers by the American Fur company, and subsequently as guides and scouts to military commands in the mountains. Find- ing them communicative, he discovered that the only practicable route for a rail- road through the Rocky Mountains, "from the little they had heard of railroads," was up the South Platte, Cache-la-Poudre and over the Cherokee trail, and, upon these representations, and being also deeply impressed by the beauty and fertility of the valley, he settled down there to await events. The information then given was afterward corroborated by Jim Bridger, Jim Baker, Old John Smith and Tim Goodale.

This settlenient of mountaineers, numbering twelve to twenty, with Indian wives, was called Colona. "The principal occupations of the resident claim- ants," says MIr. Howes, "consisted in sitting cross-legged, Indian fashion, making cigarettes from plug tobacco cut up fine, for their own personal enjoyment and immediate use, and occasionally regaling themselves with good sized horns of villainous whiskey. Being talkative, they vied with one another in recounting their mountain experiences and romantic adventures, in a manner that would have put Baron Munchausen to shame. Their chief amusements were playing cards and raising Indian ponies. Of the latter, they and their Indian relatives owned some good ones. Ponies, buckskins and moccasins generally constituted the measures of value of everything they dealt in, even to the purchase of squaw wives. The parents or guardians of the fiancé required payment for her in such number of ponies as could mutually be agreed on. The numerical size of the mountaineer's family-generally large-occasionally filled a 'baker's dozen' of half-breed children, and all the relatives of the wife thrown in. Two of these mountaineers, respectively named John Batiste Provost and Laroque Bush, still remain. The present wife of one is a French woman, and of the other, a German. Both are good citizens with respectable families." Among other old settlers were Rafael Corafel and Jesus Luis. Corafel related to General Hal Sayr, from whom the author obtained it, this in- cident: "One time, long anterior to his residence on the Cache-la-Poudre, while out hunting, eighty miles north of Fort Laramie, he was caught in a terrible snow storm, and in the freezing weather which followed both his feet were frozen. He walked the entire distance to Laramie on his knees. Many a time the wolves flocked around and threatened to eat him alive. Having his gun, he killed a buffalo and cutting off the meat managed to subsist upon it until he reached the fort.'

Besides the foregoing on the Cache-la-Poudre, there was a blacksmith named Dawson, with a white wife and one son, who resided there. Above, on the river, three young men had but a short time before located on ranches, one of whom married and since has made a fortune in the cattle business; built a good house at Fort Collins, and has practically retired from business. His name is Abner Loomis, and both he and his family are highly respected. Below, on the river, there lived Mr. Robert Strauss, a thrifty old bachelor and a good citizen. Below Strauss lived James B. Arthur and his brother John. The latter was killed by a runaway team. James married, and, like his neighbor, Loomis, acquired a fortune by stock raising, and now resides with his family in Fort Collins. Still further down the stream, near the present town of Greeley, resided Messrs. Boyd and Rice. The latter, while en route to the "States," was shot and killed by Indians who fired into the overland stage coach in which he was a passenger. The partner, Boyd, resides on their

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History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 26

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company Publication date: 1889-95 Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co. Number of Pages: 791

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791