History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 34

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791

USA > Colorado > History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV > Part 34

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That part of the great valley better adapted to agriculture and grazing is an immense basin, diversified here and there by little hills dotted with cedar and piñons. It is traversed by the MeElmo, a channel that is flooded at certain seasons, and at others dry. Latterly, however, it receives much water from the irrigating canals. On the south side the soil is an alluvial deposit, from 5 to 70 feet deep, ascertained by digging wells, and by deep ravines eut by spring torrents. It is especially adapted to the luxuriant growth of wheat and corn, the latter attaining as fine perfection as in Kansas or Illinois. On the north side the base is limestone, locally termed "red ash soil." from 5 to 15 feet deep, and normally cov- ered with sage brush. In this class of lands great crops of oats, all the small grains and alfalfa are grown. Owing to the peculiar adaptability of the south side to corn, the settlers are giving much attention to the raising of swine. So far as their experiments have extended, it appears to be one of the finest corn-growing districts of the state.

Within the past two or three years the people have planted many fruit trees, in the belief that all the varieties common to the northern and middle states can be made productive in this altitude. The region seems to be well suited to pears. apples, the hardier varieties of grapes and plums, and it is thought that even peaches and apricots can be grown. At first they were somewhat skeptical as to peaches, but the results of several trees in 1801 removed serious apprehension on that score, and they are now confident that this delicate fruit can be produced as abundantly as at Farmington, New Mexico, or about Grand Junction, in this state.

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For a description of the western part of the county, which is not occupied, we refer to the report of Mr. W. H. Jackson, of Hayden's geological survey, who says: "The Hovenweep ('deserted valley') is a tributary of the McElmo, which, together with the wide-spreading arms of the Montezuma, drains into the San Juan all that portion ot country lying between the Mesa Verde and the Sierra Abajo (or Blue mountains), covering in the aggregate some 2,500 square miles. Their labyrinthine canons head close to the Dolores on the north, and ramify the plateaus in every direction, with an interminable series of deep, desolate gorges and wide, barren valleys." It is among these canons that some of the more remark- able ruins of the ancient Cliff Dwellers are found.

Whilst farming has been carried on with gratifying success in the valley of the Mancos river, near the eastern border, since 1880, and a considerable business center established at the town of Mancos, it was not until after the construction of great canals in the Montezuma, in 1885-86, that the development of industry began in the latter. In 1885 the Montezuma Valley Water Supply company was organized in the city of Boston by Mr. James W. Hanna, formerly of Denver, now a resident of Cortez, to take water from the Dolores river, which, according to Hayden's report for 1875, has its origin in two large streams that rise in the northwestern part of the San Juan mountains. The North Fork rises in the southern face of the group named San Miguel mountains, and the South Fork, or Bear river, drains the Bear river group of mountains and the country between it and the La Plata mountains. The course of the Dolores, after the junction of the two forks, is south. It then turns abruptly west and next flows north a short distance, and then to the northwest, emptying into the Grand in Utah. Mr. Hanna's company proposed to tap the stream at the Big Bend, by a canal to be used for the reclamation of the valley. Mr. B. L. Arbecan, of Boston, was made president; James W. Hanna, of Cortez, vice-president and general manager; E. S. Turner, of New York, secretary, and H. B. Chamberlin, of Denver, treasurer. Hav- ing accomplished his mission, Mr. Hanna returned to Cortez, surveyed the line and began the work of construction. Superior skill was requisite to accomplish the difficult undertaking. The point of beginning was at the bend of the river. The canal is 25 feet wide at the bottom and 6 feet deep, leading to a tunnel 7x9 feet; is 5,400 feet long, cut through the solid sandstone of the Dolores divide, which intervenes between the river and the open valley. Having penetrated this obstruction, the ditch extends a distance of thirty miles. The greatest diffi- culty and expense lay in boring this tunnel, and in forming the head-gates at the source of supply. In 1888 the company was reorganized as the Colorado Water Supply company. In 1887 Mr. B. S. Lagrange, of Greeley, organized the Dolores Land and Canal company No, 2, commonly known as "The No. 2 company." The first section is taken out very near the one first mentioned, the two headgates adjoining; it is six miles long before entering the valley, 25 feet wide at the bottom and 6 feet deep, leading to an open cut through the divide 4,000 feet in length, 10 feet wide at the bottom, and 40 feet at the highest point. In May, 1889, the two corporations combined, forming the Colorado Consolidated Land and Water company. It has about 100 miles of constructed canals, including mains and laterals, and covers some 80,000 acres of fine agricultural land. By priority of appropriation it controls the supply from the river through the arteries just described. The canals may be used separately or together, as the need appears, by means of diverting dams and headgates. The cost of the two was about $700,000. Further extensions have been partly constructed, and storage reser- voirs located. The president of the new corporation is Henry N. Tuttle, of Chicago, and the general manager, Mr. S. W. Carpenter, formerly of Denver, now a resident of Cortez.

The Mancos river and valley is twenty-seven miles west of Durango. The headwaters of the stream are in the western slope of the La Plata chain. Though

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not large, it is a beautiful watercourse, with picturesque borders, coursing through inviting valleys one-fourth to three or four miles wide in places. The town of Mancos stands on the west bank. Two wagon roads, but little used, however, lead therefrom, one to the Big Bend of the Dolores, and the other down the Mancos valley, over into the Montezuma, on to the San Juan river, and thence to Bluff City, Utah. Though narrow, this is a very productive valley. A small colony of Mormon farmers is located there.

The tract known as the Mesa Verde is reported to be extensively underlaid with coal, but owing to the lack of railway transportation and convenient markets, the veins have not been opened. Some gold-bearing placers have been found on the upper Mancos, and some silver lodes in the La Plata mountains.

Cortes, the county seat, was located in December, 1886, upon a part of the homestead owned by Mr. James W. Hanna, who suggested its name, and sold the land to the Montezuma Land and Development company in 1887. It was surveyed and platted by Mr. J. M. Mack, December 15th, 1886, but is not yet incorporated. The streets are rectangular, 100 feet wide, well watered and partly fringed with maples and other ornamental shade trees. The town stands on the north side of the McElmo creek, an elevated plateau about 6,200 feet above the level of the sea. Just above the McElmo is divided, flowing on either side of the town. It is nine miles south of the Big Bend of the Dolores. The altitude of the valley varies from 4,500 to 6,500 feet. To the north and northwest are the peaks of Mount Wilson and Lone Cone in the Dolores Range; to the northi- east the superb La Plata mountains; on the south and southeast Lookout mountain and the Mesa Verde. Still further to the south and west, beyond the San Juan river, are the Navajo and Lucachuca ranges. Ute mountain, covered with piñon and cedar, is two miles from Cortez, and the Sierra Abajo, or Blue mountains, lie to the northwest in Utah.

The first house built in the capital of Montezuma county is credited to Major E. H. Cooper, whose explorations and experiences in the San Juan region are set forth in the history of La Plata county. He was also the first postmaster of the place, appointed by President Harrison. His house was completed and occupied January 17th, 1887. Mr. F. M. Goodykoontz opened the first boarding house and restaurant in a tent, January 3rd, 1887. School district No. 7 was organ- ized and school opened August Ist, 1887.

Mr. J. W. Ilanna, first manager of the Montezuma Land and Development company, built a two-story block of white stone, 70 feet long by 40 feet wide, at a cost of $20,000, which is now occupied by the county officers. Mr. II. B. Cham- berlin and associates furnished the capital for the Montezuma Valley Bank- $30,000-of which Mr. H. A. Harrison is the present cashier. Subsequently, the name of the town company was changed to "The Cortez Land and Improvement company," and built a white stone block 100x75 feet. In due course a newspaper, the "Journal," was founded by the veteran pioneer of San Juan journalism, Mr. John R. Curry. Stores and shops suited to the needs of the young community, lumber yards, stone quarrying and cutting were added. Quite recently a flouring mill has been erected to accommodate the wheat growers.

Public Schools. - Mr. D. M. Longenbaugh, the county superintendent, reports that a high school has been established at Mancos and a graded school at Cortez, where a stone building of two rooms, well furnished, has been completed, and two new districts formed. The census of 1800 gives a school population of 5.40. with an enrollment of 366, and an average daily attendance of 192. There were 40 in the high school. The value of school property is placed at $13.374.

The first regular church at Cortez was the Congregational, Rev. Joel P. Ilarper, pastor, organized in 1880. Mr. Harper died in December, 1800, just after the completion of his church, a fine edifice of white sandstone.

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HISTORY OF COLORADO.

It is well ascertained that there are large deposits of lignite and bituminous coals in Montezuma valley, the latter much like that found near Durango. Only the lignites have been mined as yet, and are limited to domestic use. Being without any considerable development, the value of the coal measures must be left to the future for determination. The mountains are heavily timbered with white and yellow pine, and spruce. The markets for hay, grain and flour are in the mining regions of Rico, Silverton, Telluride and San Miguel. The chief market, how- ever, in which large quantities of produce are sold, is the Navajo Indian Reserva- vation, thirty miles south, in New Mexico, where about 20,000 Indians are located.

There are many herds of cattle upon the ranges. The abstract of assessment for 1890 reports 8,821, which undoubtedly is far below the actual number. Sawmills in the pineries are turning out large quantities of lumber.

The county officers for 1800-91 were: Clerk, Frank Humble: treasurer, John White; county judge, M. T. Morris; assessor, T. W. Wattles; sheriff, Adam Lewy; coroner, G. L. Mitchell; superintendent of schools, D. M. Longenbaugh : surveyor, Frank Il. Mayer; clerk of the district court, Wm. M. Snyder; commissioners, A. T. Samson, James T. Giles and Charles Mattson; county attorney, C. W. Blackmer.

The Rio Grande Southern railway, narrow gauge, en route from Rico to Durango, touches the new town of Dolores, twelve miles from Cortez, and this is the nearest rail connection. A working survey of a line called the Salt Lake & Gulf railroad was made in 1890 by Mr. J. W. Hanna, which commences at a point on the Atlantic & Pacific railroad near Wingate, N. M., and runs north to Farm- ington, on the San Juan river, whence a branch is projected to Durango, while the main line continues down the San Juan, through the Montezuma to Cortez, with Salt Lake City as its ultimate destination.

Dolores Valley, or cañon, contains about 4,000 acres of land within Monte- zuma county, simply narrow strips bordering the river, averaging, perhaps, one third of a mile in width. Here quite a number of farmers are raising fine erops. Its counterpart may be seen in portions of the upper Animas valley above Durango. No farming of consequence is seen beyond three miles below the Big Bend. Large yields of alfalfa, wheat, oats and potatoes are produced. All these farms are in the deep canons, where the walls rise to a vertical height of 150 to 450 feet. Mr. Win. May is one of the oldest settlers there. Mr. Charles Johnson, a noted horse breeder, has a breeding ranch for thoroughbreds in this isolated cañon. The in- habitants of the Dolores are mostly from Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York and the New England states, Iowa and Illinois.

Within the county along the Mancos, McElmo, Dolores, Hovenweep and Montezuma, centuries ago, how many can not be told, lived a numerous people, of whose origin beyond the ascertained fact that they were Aztecs but little is known. Whence they came prior to their lodgment in these mountains, is a inys- tery, for none of the legends extend beyond these points, nor are there any similar remains, except in southern Utah near Colorado, to denote their migration to these valleys. The best light we have been able to gather is epitomized in the opening chapters of the first volume of our history. Among the chronicles of La Plata county will be found a tradition of the Moqui Pueblos relating to their origin, the cause of their dispersion and how they came to dwell in cliffs and caves. It is cer- tain that away back in the ages, how far we can not now penetrate, they dwelt there by tens of thousands, as indicated by the great stretches of country strewn with the ruins of their works. They were numerically powerful but not a warlike people, possessing a considerable degree of civilization. Whether they were a part of the vast horde of Aztees that swept down upon and overthrew the Toltecs of Mexico and occupied their territory is not distinctly known, yet it is reasonably certain that the descent began from this place. If it be true that the conquerors of the ancient

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Toltecs began their march from the wild cañons of the Montezuma, the Mancos, the Chaco and the Rio de Chelley, it is only reasonable to assume that some hundreds or thousands, perhaps, remained behind until the last remnant was driven out by the savage nomads, as narrated in the legend just mentioned, probably the ancestors of the Apaches, Utes and Navajos. But without attempting to trace the matter further, since it has been quite fully considered in a preceding volume, it is a fact that these ruins and the many unexplored caves form the most interesting series of subjects to be found upon this continent for investigation by archaeologists, hence they should be religiously preserved, not wantonly destroyed. The state shonkl set it aside as a public park, and keep strict watch over these phenomenally interesting relics of a great prehistoric race. Some day, perhaps, scientific research will be able to solve the mystery of their origin and decay.

The state assessment roll of Montezuma county for 1800 shows a total assessed valuation of $595,603. The number of acres of farming land returned was 39,272. There were 8,821 head of cattle, no sheep at all, and but 162 swine.

During 1891 substantial advance was made both in population and internal improvements. With its abundance of native resources, a fine climate, plentiful water, rich soil, and extensive coal measures, it must make rapid development.

MONTROSE COUNTY.

OPENED TO SETTLERS IN 1881-SCENIC EFFECTS IN THE VALLEY OF THE UNCOMPAHGRE -THE FOUNDING OF MONTROSE-ORGANIZATION-PROGRESS OF AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE AND STOCK GROWING-EXPENSIVE CANALS-PLACER MINING, ETC.

Montrose county was created from the western part of Gunnison by an act of the General Assembly, approved February 11th, 1883, and its capital located at the town of Montrose. It is bounded on the north by Delta and Mesa, south by Ouray and San Miguel, east by Gunnison, and west by Mesa and the Territory of Utah. Its area is 2,300 square miles, and by the census of 1890 its population was 3,980. Its name is derived from Sir Walter Scott's legend of Montrose. Down to August, 1881, when, by orders from Washington, General Mckenzie effected the removal of the Uncompahgre U'tes to their new reservation in Utah, it was a part of their reservation in Colorado. It was opened to settlement in September, 1881, when large numbers, knowing the value of the lands for agricultural purposes, came in, located claims under the laws and built log cabins thereon. Some of the more impatient crossed the line in advance of the withdrawal of the Indians but were ex- pelled by the troops.

Approaching Montrose from the southwest, soon after leaving Portland, a few miles below Ouray, the fine agricultural valley opens out broadly to the view, and here the scenic magnificence, which is so impressive and bewildering above, sub- sides into somewhat commonplace ranges of foothills, mesas and mountains. After having passed through the wonderful upper canons and gorges, they appear so like the ordinary mountains seen elsewhere that they seem to be without charm or special interest except as to the changes produced by fantastic movements and for- mations of the tinted clouds floating above them. The Uncompahgre valley is wide and fertile, and the better lands are mostly occupied by prosperous farmers to a point between Ridgway and Dallas, where low, barren ridges have been interjected. At Dallas it opens out again, and thence to Montrose, and for a long distance be- vond. it becomes an immense park, where grains of all kinds, alfalfa, native and tame grasses, and vegetables testify by their luxuriance the excellence of the soil. Ilere

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and there we find fruit orchards and vineyards just beginning to bear. This is des- tined to become the granary of the western part of the state, occupying the same relative position to the great mining districts of the western slope that the San Luis valley does to the eastern and southern divisions.

Montrose was located as a town site* January 20th, 1882, a survey being made at that time, and each lot staked. The plat contains 320 acres, the tract being one inile long by half a mile in width, running the long way from southeast to north- west, that being the course taken by the Uncompahgre river at this point. The streets and avenues are 100 feet in width, and the alleys 20 feet. Each lot is 25 feet wide by 125 in depth. The first building erected on the town site was built by Mr. John Baird, January Ist, 1882. It was a frame building 18x30, and is still stand- ing. Owing to the scarcity of building materials, the growth of the town was at first very much retarded, but early in February a number of log and picket houses were put up from the cottonwood trees obtained on the river. In April W. A. Eckerly & Co. brought in a sawmill, located it about fourteen miles southwest of the town and began producing lumber, after which the improvement was quite rapid. Frame buildings began to appear in place of log cabins, among them the bank building, 18x36; the "Messenger" office, 18x25: the town company's office, 25x25; Sanderson & Co.'s stage barn, 24x40: B. J. Wolfe's store, 20x40; H. Pat- terson's store, 18x32, and a number of others. At the time this account was written there were about 125 buildings in the place.

An election for incorporation was held in April, and on the 2nd of May the election for town officers, when 112 votes were cast and the following chosen : Mayor, Dr. W. Cummings; recorder, Wm. A. Eckerly ; trustees, A. Pumphrey, R. C. Diehl, W. Wilson and Thomas Hiebler. At the first meeting of trustees held on the 16th of May, a commissioner was appointed for the purpose of conveying all the lots and blocks to Joseph Selig and O. D. Loutsenhizer as trustees, to enable them to obtain from the U. S. government a patent to the land and thus secure absolute title in behalf of the settlers.

Montrose is situated on the Uncompahgre river at its confluence with Cedar creek. At this point the Utah extension of the Denver & Rio Grande narrow gauge railroad first strikes the river named, and runs thence to Grand Junction in Mesa county, the point of union with the Rio Grande Western from Salt Lake and Ogden. A branch was begun from Montrose up the Uncompahgre valley to Dallas in Ouray county, in the spring of 1887, completed to the point last named August 31st follow- ing, and extended to Ouray December 27th of that year. The capital of Montrose county is eighty-five miles west of Gunnison, thirty-five miles northwest of Ouray and twenty-five miles above the junction of the Uncompahgre and Gunnison rivers at Delta. The railway makes a short turn to the northwest at the southeast corner of Montrose and runs straight as an arrow for several miles down the river, and in this angle of the road the town is located. The surface is smooth and even, admir- ably sitnated for irrigation, the land gradually sloping and descending with the fall of the river.

The Belvidere hotel, within a block of the railroad station, a large, well-built structure of brick, fitted with all modern improvements and lighted by electricity. was erected by a joint stock company in 1800-91. In the latter year it was purchased by Mr. H. A. Green of Denver. The town is not compactly built as yet, but scatters over the corporate limits. In the center there are a number of very fine buildings of pressed brick and good architectural designs, but the majority are frame. The opera house, court house and school buildings are handsome brick structures, as also the chief bank building and two or three of the larger mercantile stores.

* Montrose " Messenger," May 25th, 1882. The accuracy of this account is vouched for by leading citizens.

INTERIOR OF

MILL

MINES & MILLS OF THE FLORENCE MILLING & MINING CO

J H PLATT, PREST

JOHN M SEGAN SUPT.

FRED. C.KEENEY, , V PREST,

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HISTORY OF COLORADO.

Montrose is still in the inceptive period of development. The limited capital at the command of its citizens has been largely devoted to enterprises calculated to de- velop the surrounding country, such as great irrigating canals, flouring mills, the improvement of farms, orchards, vineyards, etc., and the laying of trathe lines for the support of their embryonic metropolis, as will appear in due course of this sketch. The water system is excellent, ample for domestic uses and for the extinguishment of fires. The future of Montrose depends largely upon the growth of agriculture and horticulture. Fruit growing is becoming an important feature of industry. Grapes, apples, peaches and pears give promise of extensive productiveness. The broad uplands or mesas which environ the town are apparently verdureless, yet form good grazing ranges, and, under irrigation, are capable of producing all the grains in abundance, though very little corn is seen. However, only a few sections of Colorado are adapted to the growth of Indian corn.

J. L. Sanderson & Co., the famous stage men of the country prior to their dis- placement by railway builders, ran four-horse coaches on their route between Gun- nison and Ouray, conveying passengers, express and mails. The stage fare from Gunnison to Montrose was $16.50 and each passenger was allowed fifty pounds of baggage. In 1882 the price of town lots ranged from $50 to $150 each, according to locality. There is excellent limestone in the neighboring hills, which some years since were covered with cedar and piñon woods, whence the people obtained their fuel, until the railways brought coals from the Crested Butte mines.

The first county officers were: Commissioners, A. E. Buddecke, O. D. Loutsen- hizer and S. H. Nye; county clerk, Joseph Selig; county judge, George Simmonds; sheriff, Frank Mason; treasurer, Geo. M. Huskins; superintendent of schools, C. W. Blockmer ; surveyor, G. M. Effenger ; assessor, David Markley; coroner, F. P. Brown; county attorney, S. H. Baker. The first meeting of the commissioners was held March 12th, 1883, when the county was divided into precincts, and judges of elec- tion appointed. At the election held in November of that year the following were chosen : Commissioners, J. H. Woodgate, A. Hoffman and Mont. Hill; sheriff, J. B. Johnson; clerk, James S. Grier ; county judge, R. B. Amsbary ; treasurer, Lin- coln Stewart; surveyor, J. H. Anderson; superintendent of schools, Nathaniel Young; assessor, D. L. Markley; coroner, J. W. Owens.

The county is most eligibly situated on the western slope of the great Conti- nental Divide, and is traversed by the Uncompahgre river, whose source is in the San Juan mountains. The Gunnison, Spring, Robadean and Rio Escalante streams are in the eastern and northeastern parts; and in the western the Rio Dolores, with the East Paradox, Rio San Miguel, Naturita, Horsefly, Tabeguache, Cimarron and other water-courses. The Black Canon of the Gunnison, beginning in Gunni- son county just beyond Sapinero, and terminating near Cimarron in eastern Mont- rose, is one of the grandest and most interesting gorges in the mountains, and the one which impels thousands of tourists to take the Denver & Rio Grande railroad- narrow gauge division-that traverses its entire length, and thereby enjoy its mar- vels. While not so wild, weird and awe-inspiring, perhaps, as the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas river, a few miles above Canon City, it is much larger, and, to many observers, even more wonderful and attractive. Here are many miles of deep and very narrow .chasis environed by towering cliffs bearing the marks of glacial ac- tion, the rocks worn smooth by the plunging stream. The Gunnison, which is consid- ered the most beautiful of Colorado rivers, finds its tortuous way through these won- drous depths, winding and twisting and turning like a serpent, followed along its margins by the railway, which, when shut out on one side, crosses to the other and back again as the varying changes occur, in obedience to the caprices of the torrent. The dark overhanging walls shut out the sunlight most of the day, and impart to it its name, "The Black Canon." At Cimarron the railway abandons the stream, and, mounting the divide, turns down the valley of the Uncompaligre to Montrose,

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History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 34

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company Publication date: 1889-95 Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co. Number of Pages: 791

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791