History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 25

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791

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the La Plata river, making their headquarters at Parrott City, which had been located and surveyed during the summer by Capt. John Moss and Major E. H. Cooper, and a fine cabin built, from which point Mr. Jackson was accompanied by Major Cooper, Capt. Moss and Henry Lee. This party moved west to the Mancos river and camped at Merritt's ranch, Moss and Lee being the guides. Their main object was to take views of the country. (W. H. Jackson was the photographer of Hayden's U. S. Geological Survey, and resides now in Denver. It was his discovery and report upon the ruins of the Cliff and Cave Dwellers which called the attention of the scientific world to their importance as prehistoric relics.)

While visiting in one of the Moqui Pueblos en route from California, Capt. Moss obtained from the head men the following very interesting

LEGEND OF THE CLIFF DWELLERS.

"The whole of La Plata county as it now stands upon the maps was once a land of paradise, and was densely populated. Its inhabitants lived in peace and harmony with the world; they were not a war-like people and knew nothing of the arts of warfare. Their lands produced abundantly of everything they planted. They were a happy and prosperous people and lived in the love and fear of their God. But eventually a terrible trembling of the earth occurred. The waters dis- appeared and great mountains occupied their places. Mountains crumbled into dust; new water courses appeared. The larger part of the people were destroyed .* The remainder, however, continued their former avocations, made new houses and again began to prosper and multiply. They discovered a bright yellow metallic substance in many of the streams, and a bright white metal in the mountains. They began to use these metals in barter and trade with one another. According to the Moqui tradition, and according to their method of computing time, this must have occurred about 6,000 years ago. This condition of affairs prevailed until within a thousand years ago, when they were visited by savage strangers (nomadic bands) from the north, whom they treated hospitably. Soon these visits became more frequent and annoying. These troublesome neighbors began to forage upon them, and finally to massacre them and devastate their farms. So to save their lives, they built houses in the cliffs, high up, where they could store food and

* Since this chapter was written, what seems to be a remarkable confirmation of this tradition comes in a letter to the author from Mr. George A. Jackson, a veteran prospector, frequently mentioned in our history, who in the autumn of 1891 penetrated a group of mountains in New Mexico situate near the Continental Divide, whose western slopes drain into the San Juan river. These mountains are not named on any map, the entire section being designated as "lava" or "unsurveyed." They are thirty to thirty-five miles in length, by ten to twenty in width, much shattered by volcanic convulsions. Near the center is a lofty peak, on top of which is a well-defined crater, whose outlet was through a canon leading to the west- ward, a distance of nine or ten miles, where it joins another and larger canon whose waters flow into the San Juan river. In the smaller canon may be seen three distinct flows of lava, probably from three volcanic convulsions, following close upon one another, and all proceeding from this crater. "In one of these

cañons," says Jackson, "I found Cliff Dwellings that were unquestionably inhabited before this volcano burst into active eruption, as the houses can now be plainly seen, some half covered with lava, others, no

doubt, entirely buried, while some are still standing, with floors of obsidian or volcanic glass thrown in on top of the second flow of lava by the last eruption. Ilere is an interesting field for antiquarians and geologists. I could fill many pages with descriptions of my explorations among the houses of the little people who once inhabited nearly every canon in this and many other parts of New Mexico and Arizona. I send you two fragments of corn-cob, a piece of reed, three pieces of string, and part of a scalp with hair intact, which I dug out of one of their houses buried under six feet of debris. My comrade, Mr. II. Z. Owens, found a skeleton almost entire, with a stone axe in another house of the same village, but as soon as exposed to the atmosphere the bones crumbled to ashes Now, it is absolutely certain that those people lived here prior to the outbreak of the volcano, for the chain of evidence is complete. Perhaps experienced geologists can determine from the overflow when the eruption occurred, which would, to some extent, enlighten us as to the period when the Aztecs first occupied this now isolated and desolate region." In view of the facts just recited, the tradition seems entitled to more respectful consideration than would otherwise be accorded, for it now reads like a well-digested chapter of history.

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hide away until the invaders should leave. But one summer these northern men came with their families and settled down, laying siege to them, as it were. Driven from their homes and land, and starving in their little niches in the high cliffs, they could only steal away during the night and wander from place to place across the cheerless uplands or mesas. At the Christone, or last battle ground, near the head of MeElmo Cañon, they halted for rest and to make preparation for crossing the great lake (now the lower portion of Montezuma valley and extending south and west into and across the desert lands of Arizona). Here they erected fortifica- tions and watch towers, and filled the adjoining caves full of little nests for these human wrens and swallows until their boats could be built. When the last of the women and children were embarked and were well out to sea, the alarm and signal were given from one of the watch towers that their foes had pursued and were upon them. For long months the northmen fought and were driven back, but as often they came again with renewed numbers. At length, however, the besiegers were driven away. But the tradition goes on to say, in evidence of the great battle, that the hollows of the rocks were filled to the brim with the mingled bodies and blood of conquerors and conquered, and that red veins of blood ran down the cañon. It was such a victory as they could not afford to risk again, therefore they soon followed their wives and children across the waters. There in the deserts of Arizona, on a well nigh unapproachable, isolated bluff or mesa, they built new towns and their few descendants, the Moquis, live in them to this day, preserving more carefully and purely the history and veneration of their forefathers, and the love and fear of God, than many of our well-informed and enlightened nations."*

Returning to modern times and resuming the threads of our narrative, we find that during the fall of 1874 Hugh Lambert and family moved into the valley of the Animas and settled at what is known as "Waterfall ranch," now owned by Mr. G. W. Wigglesworth. Hugh Lambert's wife was the first white woman to settle there. The first post office was established at Howardsville, named for Lieut. Howard of the Baker expedition, with Mr. W. H. Nichols as postmaster, who also was the first assayer to open an office in the San Juan country. J. C. Sullivan and James Galloway brought over the range the first blacksmith outfit for public use, which was set up in Howardsville. J. C. Sullivan was appointed foreman of the Prospector mine and continued work all winter. Mrs. W. H. Nichols, Mrs. W. E. Earl and Mrs. J. F. Cotton were the first white ladies to settle in Baker's Park. They soon were followed by Mrs. Ben Harwood and Mrs. Ben Aspas. All these ladies remained in camp all winter. In the spring Mrs. W. H. Nichols gave birth to a boy baby, the first white child born in La Plata county.

The year 1874 was an active and prosperous one for the county. In 1875 the county seat was moved from Howardsville to Silverton by the county clerk, without leave or license. Mining operations were active that year; many eastern capitalists made investments there. Green & Co. completed their smelter under the supervi sion of Mr. J. L. Pennington. J. L. Porter was the metallurgist and E. T. Bowman assayer. This was the first water jacket furnace erected and successfully operated in the state. Fair wagon roads were completed from Del Norte to Silverton and

* The interested reader is now invited to turn back to Vol. I and reperuse chapters two to five inclusive, and compare the facts therein with the material parts of the foregoing. This, like all ancient traditions of the various races, contains certain elements of fiction. but it also contains several statements which, in the absence of other light, may be regarded as the probable history of that remarkable people. If nothing more, we find at least a reasonable cause not only for their occupation of the cliffs and caves, but of their expulsion and dispersion. The remains which are exciting profound attention among the scientific minds of our day were not, according to this account, voluntary and permanent homes, but fortresses to which they only resorted as impregnable defenses against their enemies. There is scarcely room for doubting that the existing inhabitants of the Pueblos in Arizona and New Mexico are the direct descendants of the people referred to. The chain of evidence seems to be complete. It is more than probable, also. that the swarm of Aztecs which swept down upon and overthrew the Toltees of Mexico began their migration from the same point in southwestern Colorado.

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they were lined with freight wagons laden with machinery and supplies. \'arious branches of business, saloons, etc., multiplied. Capt. P. Stanley (whose adventurous career is set forth in our biographical department) was the first brickmaker and built the first brick house.

Isaac Grant opened the first hotel at Silverton. Henry Gill and Capt. G. S. Flagler opened a general store and saloon at Howardsville, January Ist, 1875. John W. Shan built several houses at this point, and a manager of a company located and patented 160 acres of placer ground on the Animas river above Ilowards- ville. On the 5th of June, near the summit of the range, at the head of Stony Gulch, under a fir tree, upon a huge bank of snow, Mrs. Geo. Webb, who was en route to Silverton with her husband, gave birth to a girl baby, the first female white child born in the San Juan country. A wagon sheet was at once stretched for a cover, fir boughs were cut and laid upon the snow, upon which a comfortable bed of blankets was made, and Mrs. Webb rendered every possible attention. The accouchement was performed by Drs. Blake and Cushing. In a few days she was able to resume her journey, with the mountain lily or "snow line baby," as it was called. In honor of the event the people of Silverton presented the child a city lot.

In the Animas valley much land was improved, crops planted and matured, and on the Mancos also. But work on the La Plata progressed slowly. Most of the old parties returned, and some new ones made their appearance. The ditch was completed, but not in time for operation. The Hermosa post office was estab- lished, with A. N. Fuller postmaster. The first mail came in via Howardsville and was brought over the range on snow shoes. Both these offices were established in 1874, but no delivery occurred until early in 1875. This year a post office was located at Parrott City, but there was no service until late and it was discontinued during the winter. Theodore Slack located a ranch on the Rio Florida, carly in the spring, and planted some crops but was burned out by the Indians, when he fled to the Animas valley for safety. A report was sent to Silverton that an Indian war had broken out below, and that all settlers were in danger. In less than an hour nearly 100 miners, well armed, were on the way to the Animas valley. They traveled nearly all night, but on their arrival found that the cause of alarm had been removed. Later in the season, Tim McCluire brought in a herd of cattle of about 800 and located on the Rio Florida. The Hampton Bros. and Dave Murray followed with cattle of their own, and Bally Scott or Ilenry Sefton, John Reid and Mr. Weed brought cattle down from the upper country in the Animas valley, mostly milch cows. This was the first introduction of cattle into La Plata county. During August and September much development work having been done on the Comstock lode on the La Plata, and a rich pocket of tellurium ore found, Parrott & Co. of San Francisco sent out an expert, Prof. A. H. Phillips, and a Mr. Noonan, an experienced placer miner, to examine into their interests. The reports rendered were very favorable, and Capt. Moss, their manager, was again authorized to draw on the firm for all funds necessary to develop their property.

A general election for territorial and county officers and also for delegates to a constitutional convention was to be held in 1875. At this time the idea of dividing the county was advanced and strongly favored. At the election which ensued H. R. Crosby was chosen to represent La Plata county in the constitutional con- vention, and T. M. Trippe and Reuben J. McNutt were elected to the House of the legislature. Adair Wilson was elected to the Council or upper branch. Major E. 11. Cooper and Capt. John Moss proceeded to Denver and, as supporters of the representatives, labored for the creation of a new county. At length a bill was passed providing for the division and the organization of San Juan county, the lower part still retaining the name La Plata, with Parrott City as its capital. Silver- ton was made the seat of San Juan county. It will be comprehended that the

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present county of La Plata was not organized until the year 1876. The bill was approved January 31st of that year. Major E. H. Cooper was made county clerk; Richard Giles, sheriff; Charles Bennett, treasurer; Henry Lee, assessor; H. R. Crosby, county judge; John Moss, John Merritt and J. H. Pinkerton, commis- sioners.

The first wedding in La Plata was that of Frank Williams to a daughter of J. H. Pinkerton.

The altitude varies from 4,400 feet in the valleys to 14,200 feet on the loftier mountains. The La Plata chain and Needle mountains stretch across the northern part from east to west, forming the northern watershed of the great San Juan valley, and are the sources of the beautiful clear rivers Florida, Piedra, Las Pinos, Animas, La Plata and Mancos, all flowing the entire width of the county from north to south, through beautiful valleys. The mountains are covered with timber, yellow and white pine, fir and spruce, and both mountains and valleys for the most part are well grassed grazing grounds for cattle and sheep. In the early spring of 1876, the firm of Scott, Earl & Cooper, consisting of Geo. L. Scott, John F. Earl and Major E. H. Cooper, landed on the La Plata river with a saw mill, which was brought from Pueblo by ox team via Canon Large, crossing the San Juan river above Farmington, New Mexico, then crossing the Animas river and following up the La Plata to its destination. The first lumber was sawn May 5th, 1876, and this was the beginning of lumber manufacture in the county. Next came Wm. Chub- buck & Co. with a mill. E. H. Cooper & Co. brought in a stock of groceries and supplies and located at Parrott City. Others followed in due course and thus the town grew; many others cante in and built stores and dwellings. On the Mancos were several ranchmen planting erops, constructing ditches, etc. Among these were John Merritt, John McIntire, James Ratcliff, H. M. Smith, Peter Kelmer and others. The same was true of the Animas country.

La Plata county was formally organized, and its commissioners met for busi- ness about July 2nd. For a time the offices were in a one-room log house, occupied by Major E. H. Cooper, the clerk; Scott J. Anthony (now of Denver), deputy clerk, and John M. True, assistant. During the latter part of the summer General Hatch, department commander of New Mexico, sent in a company of cavalry and stationed them at or near the mills of Scott. Earl & Cooper. The final result was the loca- tion of a military post at Pagosa Springs and an agency for the Southern Utes on Pine river. On the Rio Florida several settlers established themselves, among them Tom Johnson and - - Bartholomew. On Pine river John O'Neil and George Morrison made locations and brought in cattle. The Animas City Town company was organized. John Fowler's ranch was purchased, laid out and platted, and the town incorporated with Ira Smith, Dr. Ankeney, C. J. Marsh and E. H. Cooper as officers. This year sufficient crops were raised to supply the home demand. In the early part of October, at a general election, Capt. John Moss was elected to thie state legislature; Richard Giles, sheriff: John Reid, county clerk; A. R. Lewis, treasurer: Henry Lee, assessor; H. M. Smith, J. C. Turner and W. Findley, com- missioners.

The next winter was unusually mild, with but little snow. Early in the spring of 1877, C. E. Dudley planted a few fruit trees with some small fruits on his ranch near Hermosa creek, as an experiment; also erected a small Mexican flouring mill and manufactured a fair quality of flour from wheat grown in the valley. Stock raising and farming became permanent industries.

The Indian Agency on Pine river was established, with Rev. Mr. Weaver as agent. Charles Johnson and family settled on the same stream at the crossing of the Animas City and Pagosa Springs road. John O'Neil, George Morrison and some others also located on Pine river. Major D. L. Sheets and family and many others settled in Animas City.

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Pine river is the second in size of the seven streams that cross La Plata county from north to south. Its volume is more than sufficient to irrigate all the lands to which it can be carried in canals. The valley has an average width of half a mile. On either side are tributary streams and valleys-Texas creek, Beaver and others-and broad mesas, embracing some 12,000 acres of good agricultural land. The altitude is 6,000 to 7,500 feet. There is a considerable settlement in this valley, with schools and churches. Grain and small fruits thrive to perfection, also wild cherries, currants and hops, likewise oats, hay, etc. The soil and climate favor luxuriant growth.

As we have seen by the foregoing recital, the permanent occupation and development of the San Juan country was accomplished under almost incredible hardships and by a mere handful of resolute people. At first there was no com- munication with the older settlements of Colorado, the nearest of importance being Pueblo; no outlet even to the San Luis valley at Del Norte, except by crude and rugged trails which tried the souls of men to the uttermost, until 1875, when by prodigious labor a more direct thoroughfare was opened on which wagons could be used. In 1876 the opening of the Crooke Bros. reduction works at Lake City, in Hinsdale county, offered a temporary market for the products of the lode mines, but they were almost inaccessible from this side and soon closed. It was not until after the completion of the Denver & Rio Grande railway to Durango that any substantial prosperity ensued. This event opened a new era that has been steadily progressive to the present.

Durango, the present capital of the county, was laid off as a town site and settled upon Saturday, September 11th, 1880, when some 40 lots were selected for preferred parties. The survey of lots and blocks began Monday, the 13th. On the 18th the first money was accepted-about $7,000-and receipts given for lots purchased. The original plat was filed February 24th, 1881, by W. A. Bell, trustee, for the Durango Trust or Town company. Fassbinder's addition was filed April 28th following. The D. & R. G. road was completed to the town July 27th. 1881. It was extended to Silverton, 45 miles beyond, in March, 1882. Then the place began to advance with great vigor, and the entire San Juan region revived under the influence of rapid transit. The town site of Durango, with the surround- ings of lofty and strangely shaped mountains, is highly picturesque, fronting on the cast bank of the clear and beautiful Animas river. By the railway it is 465 miles south of Denver. The business streets, with stores, shops, factories, etc., are along the first bench, parallel with the stream, while the churches, schools and residences of the people are upon an elevated mesa or plateau adjoining, away from the noise and dust of traffic. Here are many pretty houses on shaded avenues, adorned by emerald lawns brightened by flowers, creeping vines, shrubs and ornamental trees, the public schools and several handsome churches. Most of the people are from the eastern states. The situation of Durango proper, with all its natural advantages though admirable, is much less attractive in summer than the farming section in the valley a few miles above. Some of the larger lot owners have planted fruit trees in their gardens-apple, pear, plum, etc .- which have now reached the bearing stage and at the time of my visit in August, 1891, were literally breaking under their lovely burdens, whereby it was made apparent that this will in the near future become a fruit producing section of considerable magnitude. It is seldom that any frosts occur between May and September. There are many fine gardens, for the soil is rich and deep and there is abundant water for irrigation. The upper part of the valley, which is not above a mile wide at the broadest part and contains only about 8,000 acres of tillable land, is shadowed on either side by towering ranges-not bleak, bare and dismal like those of northern Colorado, but studded with trees, verdure-clad and beautiful. I saw wheat and oats six feet high in the fields, many incomparable tracts of alfalfa all in purple bloom, and a wonderful luxuriance

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of all kinds of vegetables, not excelled, if equaled, in any other part of Colorado. Many of the farms are simply narrow strips of alluvial land bordering the Ammas river that, well tilled, will produce splendid harvests every year, for there are no failures. The farmers have been prosperous; many of them are comparatively wealthy, for there is a ready market in Durango and in the mining regions of San Juan and Ouray counties above for all they can produce, at excellent prices. In all the West there is no lovelier agricultural section than this. The eye never tires of looking at its splendors, and the senses of the stranger passing that way are entranced by the scores of superb pictures presented. Ingersoll, in his "Crest of the Continent," very justly names it the "Queen of the Canons." Every available acre of arable land has been taken up and put under the highest stages of cultivation.

A brisk traffic enlivens the principal business street of Durango, a mile or more in length traversed by horse cars, and lined on either side with substantial build- ings of brick and stone, many of them of handsome architecture. In 1889 a large part of the old and hastily built metropolis was destroyed by fire, which swept away about 125 buildings, including three churches and a number of residences. At first it was considered a public calamity, and so it was in the losses sustained, but, as with most places worth saving, it proved a public blessing, for the present Durango, with the improvements introduced in rebuilding, shows great strength and permanence, as if it were built to stand. It is estimated that in 1890 no less than $500,000 was expended upon new structures. The work is still going on. The Strater hotel, one of the best in southern Colorado, was completed and opened in September, 1888, built by Anthony F. Strater, of Cleveland, Ohio, by induce- ment of two of his sons, who reside in Durango, at a cost of about $75,000 furnished. There are two fine brick school buildings, and the funds are in hand for a thirty thousand dollar high school. The streets and most of the buildings are illuminated by incandescent electric lights. There are a number of handsome churches. Mercy hospital, conducted by the Sisters of Mercy, is a large three-story stone building adjoining the Catholic church on the north side.

The Baptists organized in 1881 : the Catholics in the spring of that year; the Episcopalians in the autumn of 1880; the Presbyterians in June, 1881; the M. E. Church South in Durango and Animas City in the summer of 1882: the Methodist Episcopal in July, 1874, antedating all the others. Rev. B. F. Cary, then presiding elder, preached the first sermon in the Animas valley.

The Presbyterians, Baptists, Episcopalians, Methodists, M. E. Church South, Catholics and German Lutherans have large congregations and church edifices.

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History of the State of Colorado, Volume IV, Part 25

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company Publication date: 1889-95 Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co. Number of Pages: 791

Author: Hall, Frank, 1836-1917. cn; Rocky Mountain Historical Company
Publication date: 1889-95
Publisher: Chicago, Blakely print. Co.
Number of Pages: 791