History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890, Part 1

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: New York : Blake
Number of Pages: 1292


USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890 > Part 1


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org.


Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102 | Part 103 | Part 104 | Part 105 | Part 106 | Part 107 | Part 108 | Part 109 | Part 110 | Part 111 | Part 112



ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01772 4623


GENEALOGY 974.401 B26D


HISTORY -OF- -


ARNSTABLE


OUNTY,


MASSACHUSETTS.


1620


[ 1 !


1637


1686


1890


Edited by SIMEON L. DEYO. .


Special Contributors:


HON. CHARLES F. SWIFT, CAPT. THOMAS PRINCE HOWES, REV. N. H. CHAMBERLAIN, E. S. WHITTEMORE, EsQ., JOSIAH PAINE, PROF. S. A. HOLTON, CHARLES DILLINGHAM,


PROF. JOHN H. DILLINGHAM, JAMES GIFFORD, GEORGE N. MUNSELL, M. D., JUDGE JAMES H. HOPKINS, JOSHUA H. PAINE, REV. THOMAS BELL, F. A. ROGERS, M. D.


ILLUSTRATED.


.


NEW YORK: H. W. BLAKE & CO., 1890,


Limited Edition.


No. A


1.


.. ..


( A. H. RITCHIE. ENGRAVERS A. C. SHIPLEY, ( HAZLETT GILMOUR.


ARTIST. FRANK M. GILBERT. PRINTER, J HENRY PROBST.


1152319


INTRODUCTION.


In presenting to the people of Barnstable county this history, it is hoped that it will meet with the favorable reception which the earnest and conscientious labors of its compilers merit. It will be seen by an examination of the work that nine important chapters, besides many other valuable articles in it, were prepared by well-known citizens of the county, and it is believed that their names will be considered a guaranty that every reasonable effort has been made to secure accu- racy in the many details which constitute a history.


Names of the special contributors appear in the work, but oppor- tunity is taken here to return thanks for the generous response with which requests for information have also been met by the clerks of the different towns, officers of societies, editors, clergymen and others who were in possession of special information that was desired.


Particular acknowledgement is due for the valuable assistance of George E. Clarke, of Falmouth; Charles Dillingham, of Sand- wich ; Calvin Burgess, of Bourne; Ferdinand G. Kelley, of Barnsta- ble ; Joshua C. Howes and Watson F. Baker, of Dennis; Levi Atwood, of Chatham ; Captain Alfred Kenrick and David L. Young, of Orleans ; Simeon Atwood, of Wellfleet ; and to Mr. Clark, of Eastham, who care- fully criticised and corrected the respective town manuscripts sub- mitted to them,


The biographical sketches, for the most part, have been arranged alphabetically at the end of the several chapters. The large number of these sketches has necessitated as brief treatment as the circum- stances would warrant. No pains have been spared to make this de- partment accurate, and it is believed that it constitutes an interesting portion of the work, which will increase in value with the lapse of years.


iv


INTRODUCTION.


A new feature and one of interest, is a map showing the location of the various Indian tribes and their villages, which were spread over the Cape prior to its settlement by the whites. Another map, in its proper place, will enable the reader at a glance to learn the dates of settlement and incorporation of the respective towns, and as a ready reference will be of great value. These maps were specially drawn for this work by the editor.


While some unimportant errors may, perhaps, be found amid the multitude of details entering into the composition of a work of this character, it is believed that this result of the historians' labor will be found as free from mistakes as a work of this kind can well be made, and in behalf of these historians is asked the generous indul- gence of those who may be disposed to criticise.


NEW YORK, June, 1890.


سفيانسية مسلية


CONTENTS.


-


CHAPTER I. TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY. PAGE


Location and Boundaries .- Geological Formation .- Contour of the Coast .- Surface and Soil .- The Flora of the Cape .- Effect of the Landscape on the Character of the Cape Men. 1


CHAPTER II. INDIAN HISTORY.


Origin .- Manners .- Customs .- Religion .- Cape Indians .- Their Villages .- Their Tribes .- Map .- Kindness .- Subjugation .- Decrease .- Extinction .- Legends .... 12


CHAPTER III. DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION.


Early Discovery of the Cape .- Explorations by Gosnold and Dermer .- The Pilgrims. -The Mayflower in Cape Cod Harbor .- Explorations by the Pilgrims .- Con- pact Signed .- Plymouth .- The Lost Boy .- Post at Manomet .- Great Storm .- Declaration of Rights .- First Settlement of the Cape by the Whites .- Sandwich, Barnstable, Yarmouth and Nauset .- Erection of County. 20


CHAPTER IV. CHARTERS, GRANTS AND INDIAN DEEDS.


Spanish Claims .- Cabot's Discoveries .- Plymouth Company .- Council of Plymouth. -The Pilgrims .- Patent of 1629-30 .- Settlement of the Cape Towns and Pur- chases from the Indians .- Charter of 1691 32


CHAPTER V. CIVIL HISTORY AND INSTITUTIONS.


Basis of Civil Government .- Erection of the County .- Political History .- Council- lors .- Senators .- Representatives .- Sheriffs .- Registers .- County Institutions. -Federal Institutions .- Custom House .- Lighthouses .- Life Saving Service ... 38


CHAPTER VI. MILITARY HISTORY.


New England Confederation .- First Indian Troubles .- King Philip's War .- French and Indian Wars .- The Revolution .- Shay's Rebellion .- War of 1812. 62


.


vi


CONTENTS.


CHAPTER VII. MILITARY HISTORY (concluded). PAGE


The Civil War .- The Election of Lincoln and the Fall of Sumter .- The first Call for Three-Months' Men .- Response from the Cape Towns .- War Meetings .- Sub- sequent Calls .- Bounties .- Enlistments .- Return of the Volunteers .- G. A. R. Posts .- Monuments .. 83


CHAPTER VIII. TRAVEL AND TRANSPORTATION.


Packet Lines .- Mail Route and Stage Coaches .- Railroads .- Express Lines .- Tele- graph and Cable Lines .- The Telephone Service. 110


CHAPTER IX. INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES.


The Fisheries .- Coasting .- Shipbuilding .- Manufacturing .- Saltmaking .- Agricul- ture .-- Cranberry Culture .- Summer Resorts .- Yachting. . .. 130


CHAPTER X. THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS.


General View of the Rise and Course of their Principles in Barnstable County .- The Society in Sandwich .- Newell Hoxie .- The Society in Yarmouth .- David K. Akin .- The'Society in Falmouth .- The Dillingham Family. ...... 157


CHAPTER XI. BENCH AND BAR.


The Judiciary of the County .- First Courts .- Formation of the Province of Massa- chusetts Bay .- Revision of the Judiciary .- Courts of the Revolutionary Period. -Early Magistrates .- Judges of the Court of Common Pleas .- Court of County Commissioners .- Probate Courts .- Trial Justices .- The Bar of Barnstable County. -Lawyers, Past and Present .- Law Library Association .- District Courts ..... 196


CHAPTER XII. MEDICAL PROFESSION,


Introduction .- Barnstable District Medical Society .- Sketches of Physicians, Past and Present .- Medical Examiners. 221


CHAPTER XIII. LITERATURE AND LITERARY PEOPLE.


Early Writers .- Freeman's History of Cape Cod .- Other Local Works .- Poetry .- Fiction .- Occasional Writers .- The Newspapers of Barnstable County. 249


CHAPTER XIV. SANDWICH.


Location and Description .- Settlement and Early Growth .- List of Inhabitants in 1730 .- Continued Advancement .- Firing the Woods .- The Town's Poor .- The Revolutionary Period .- The Present Century .- Villages .- Civil History .- Churches .- Schools .- Societies .- Cemeteries -Biographical Sketches. 264


vii


CONTENTS.


CHAPTER XV. BOURNE. PAGE


Trading Post on Monument River .- Indian Hamlets .- Natural Features .- Land Pur- chases .- Settlement and Early Events .- Formation of the Second Precinct .- Salt Works .- Shipbuilding .- Early Mills .- Ship Canal .- Erection of the Town of Bourne .- Town Affairs .- Churches .- Schools. - The Villages and their Insti- tutions .- Biographical Sketches. 323


CHAPTER XVI. BARNSTABLE.


Natural Features .- Early Industries .- Settlement .- Indian Lands and Names .- Names of Settlers .- Incorporation .- Purchase from Indians .- County Road .- Early Mills .- Common Lands .- The Revolution. - War of 1812 .- Population .- Schools .- Civil History .- Churches .- Cemeteries and Villages .- Societies .-- Biographical Sketches 366


CHAPTER XVII. YARMOUTH.


Location and Characteristics .- Settlement .- The Grantees and Early Settlers .- Early Events and Customs .- The Revolutionary Period .- Division of the Town. -War of 1812 .- Subsequent Events. - Taverns and Hotels .- Churches .- Schools. -- Civil Lists .- The Villages, their Industries and Institutions .- Biographical Sketches 453


CHAPTER XVIII. DENNIS.


Natural Features .- First Settlers of Nobscusset .- Incorporation .- Development .- Industries .- Churches .- Cemeteries .- Schools .- Civil History .- The Villages, their Industries and Institutions .- Biographical Sketches. 507


CHAPTER XIX. CHATHAM.


Natural Features .- Settlement .- Incorporation .- Early Town Action .- Town Poor. -Town House .- Industries .- Ordinaries .- Lighthouses and Life Saving Sta- tions .- Mail and Express Business .- Burying Grounds .- Present Condition .- Churches .- Schools .- Civil History .- The Villages and their Institutions .- Biographical Sketches 578


CHAPTER XX. FALMOUTH.


Description .- Indians .- Settlement .- Incorporation .- Growth and Progress .- The Revolution .- Early Industries .- War of 1812 .- Civil War .- Subsequent Events and Present Condition .- Civil Lists .- Churches .- Schools .- Cemeteries .- Vil- lages .- Biographical Sketches 632


CHAPTER XXI. MASHPEE.


Location and Description .- Natural Features .- Early Events .- Incorporation as a District .- Civil History .- Town of Mashpee .- Church and Parish .- Schools .- Mashpee Manufacturing Company .- Military Service .- Some Prominent Repre- sentatives .- Industries .- Biographical Sketches


707


viii


CONTENTS.


CHAPTER XXII. EASTHAM. PAGE


Territory of the Nausets .- Purchase of the Lands .- Settlement and Incorporation of Nauset .- The Present Town of Eastham .- Natural Features .- Early Settlers. -Growth and Progress .- Industries .- Civil History .- Churches .- Burying Places .- Schools .- Villages .- Biographical Sketches. 720


CHAPTER XXIII. ORLEANS.


Orleans before its Division from Eastham .- Incorporation .- Natural Features .- Wreck of the Sparrowhawk .- Roads .- Early Settlers. - Various Events .- Indus- tries .- Churches .- Cemeteries .- Schools .- Civil History .- Villages .- Biograph- ical Sketches. . 747


CHAPTER XXIV. WELLFLEET.


Formation and Description .- Pioneers .- Early Town Action .- The Revolution .- War of 1812 .- The Fisheries .- Population .- King's Highway .- The Eastham Line .- Town House .- Shipbuilding .- Town Records .- Life Saving Station and Lighthouse .- Early Business Interests .- Wind Mills .- Civil History .- Schools .- Churches .- Cemeteries .- Wellfleet Village .- South Wellfleet .- Biographical Sketches


CHAPTER XXV. HARWICH.


Incorporation .- Description .- Natural Features .- Division of the Land .- The Set- tlers .- The Fisheries .- The Salt Industry .- Cranberry Culture .- Religious Soci- eties .- Official History .- Schools .- The Villages and their Various Institutions. -Biographical Sketches. 825


CHAPTER XXVI. BREWSTER.


Incorporation .- Natural Features .- Purchase and Division of the Land .- The First Settlers and their Families .- Industries .- Population .- The Militia .- Religious Societies. - Villages .- Civil Lists .- Meteorological Condition .- Biographical Sketches 891


CHAPTER XXVII. TRURO.


Exploration by the Pilgrims .- Proprietors of the Pamet Lands .- Incorporation of Truro .- Boundaries .- Natural Features .- King's Highway .- Pounds .- Indus- tries .- The Wreck of the Somerset .- The Revolution .- Gale of 1841 .- Various Town Affairs .- Civil History .- Churches .- Burying Grounds .- Schools .- Vil- lages .- Biographical Sketches. 922


CHAPTER XXVIII. PROVINCETOWN.


Early Explorations .- The Pilgrims .- Location and Characteristics .- First Settle- ment .- Incorporation .- Civil History .- Resources of the Town .- Banks .- Insur- ance Companies .- Public Library. - Societies .- Churches .- Schools .- Biograph- ical Sketches 951-1010


CONTENTS.


ILLUSTRATIONS.


PAGE


Akin, David K.


Portrait of, facing 183


Akin, David K


Late residence of, facing 181


Ames, Simeon L.


Portrait of, facing 419


Ancient Grave Stones.


Barnstable Cemetery 393


Attaquin, Solomon.


.Portrait of, facing


715


Atwood, Levi ..


995


Atwood, Simeon.


..


813


Baker, Ezra H.


. 6


66


536


Baker, Joseph K


66


540


Baker, Nehemiah P


. Precedes 553


Baxter, Edwin


Portrait of, facing 542


Bearse, Charles C ..


..


431


Bourne, Benjamin F.


..


66


303


Brooks, Obed


Burgess, Nathaniel


Portrait of, follows


350


Burgess, Seth S.


Residence of, precedes


351


Bursley, Daniel P.


Residence of, precedes 423


Cahoon, Barzillai C


Residence of, facing


681


Cahoon, Cyrus ..


Portrait of, facing


866


Chapman, David S


Portrait of, follows


544


Chapman, Mrs. Sallie E.


Residence of, precedes 545


Chase, Albert


Portrait of, facing 60 66


424


Chase, Job


868 400


Court House.


Residence of, facing 915


Portrait of, facing 916


914


Crosby, Nathan.


66


546


Crowell, Edward E.


66


548


Crowell, Eleazer K.


¥


549


Crowell, Joshua.


551


Crowell, Luther


.Portrait of, follows 552


Crowell, Peter H.


Residence of, precedes 553


Crowell, Peter H.


Portrait of, facing 554


Crowell, Prince S


Portrait of 550


Crowell, Seth,


.Portrait of, facing 492


Crowell, Rev. Simeon.


556


Crowell, William


.


66


345


Boyden, William E.


863


348


Burgess, Seth S.


Portrait of, follows 422


Bursley, Daniel P.


678


Bass River Lower Bridge


607


Atwood, Nathaniel E


538


Baker, Howes.


ix


Crosby, Albert.


Crosby, Isaac.


x


CONTENTS.


Dexter House


PAGE Woods Holl, facing 671


Dillingham, John H.


Portrait of, facing 195


Doane, Abiathar.


874


Doane, George W., M.D.


66


225


Doane, John


60


66


210


Doane, Nathaniel


Doane, Oliver


Portrait of, follows


770 873


Doane Homestead


Orleans, precedes 771


Drew, George P Residence of, facing


277 428


Edson, Nathan


. Portrait of, follows


Edson, Nathan


Residence of, precedes


429


Eldridge, Levi.


Portrait of, facing


613 817


Freeman, Richard R.


Friends Meeting House.


Sandwich 175 191


Friends Meeting House.


West Falmouth


Friends Meeting House


. Yarmonth 181


Fish, Joseph C.


.Portrait of, facing 687 45


Fisk, Uriah B.


Residence of, facing 558 .6 66


Ginn, David R., M.D.


Ginn's Bazaar


Dennis Port, facing


431


Gould, Samuel H., M.D


. Portrait of, facing 66 66 230


Hamblin, Caleb O.


Portrait of, follows 690


Hamblin, Caleb O


Residence of, precedes 691


Hamblin, John C.


Portrait of, facing 692


Harding, Hiram


618


Harding, Joseph C.


60


617


Harriman, Judge Hiram P.


212


Headstones, Ancient.


Barnstable


393


Holway, David N.


.Portrait of, facing


311 356


Howard, Ezra C.


.Residence of, precedes


563


Howes, Joshua C.


.Portrait of, facing


561


Howes, Levi.


66 566


Howes, Moses.


.Portrait of, follows


569


Howes, Thomas Prince


Portrait of, facing 255


Howes, William F


66


564


Hoxie, Joseph


315


Hoxie, Newell.


178


Hoxie, Susan F.


Residence of, facing 175


Hulbert, Channcy MI., M.D


.Portrait of, facing 232


Incorporation Map


39


Indian Map .


15


.Iyanough House.


411


870


Doane, Valentine, jr. Residence of, facing


Fisk, David


858 85S


Goss, Franklin B ...


Howes, Jerusha S.


CONTENTS.


xi PAGE Portrait of, facing 695 .. 43


Jones, Silas


Keith, Isaac N


Keith, Isaac N.


Residence of, facing 341


Kelley, Ferdinand G


Portrait of, facing 438


Kelley, Stillman


879


Kelley, Watson B.


66


66


818


Kenrick, Alfred.


66


66


777


Leonard, Jonathan, M.D.


.Chatham


Lombard, David.


.Portrait of, facing


948 570


Loring, Hiram.


. .


.. 215


Lothrop, Freeman H


Residence of, facing


440


Lovell, George.


. Portrait of, facing 441


Lower Bass River Bridge.


Portrait of, facing


66


441 496


Matthews, David.


Residence of, facing


719


Mingo, Walter R.


Portrait of, facing


236


Munsell, George N., M.D.


66


66


919


Nickerson, Frederick


..


625


Nickerson, Samuel M.


Dennis, facing


155 35S


Nye, David D.


Portrait of, facing


Nye, William A.


Residence of, facing 339


Packard, William E.


Portrait of, facing 360


Penniman, Edward


Phinney, Abishia


66


242 143 479


" Sandy Side"


Portrait of, facing 217


Scudder, Judge Henry A.


Sears, Barnabas (deceased)


Residence of, facing 484 500


Sears, John K.


Portrait of, follows 579


Sears, Joshua


Residence of, precedes 573


Sears, Mrs. Minerva


Portrait of, facing 574


Sears, Nathan


502


Sears, Stephen.


.South Yarmouth, facing 484


Settlement Map of Barnstable County


39


Shiverick, Asa.


Portrait of, facing 702


504


Simpkins, Nathaniel Stone.


Simpkins Homestead. Yarmouth Port, facing 480


=


235 594


Lighthouse, Ruins of


Lovell, Cyrenus A


Precedes 553 443


Makepeace, Abel D


Marston, Russell.


66


700


Rogers, F. A., M.D


South Yarmouth


Salt Works, Ruins of.


Yarmouth Port, facing


499


Sears, Barnabas


Portrait of, facing


Sears Homestead.


568


Kemp, Samuel W


774


Kingman, Seth K


Nobscussett House.


742


xii


CONTENTS.


Small, Zebina H.


PAGE .Portrait of, facing 886


Sınith, Rufus.


66


66 627


Snow, Calvin.


782


Soule, Thomas H., jr.


Hotel Hyannis 411


Sparrow, Benjamin C., Supt.


Portrait of, facing


59


Swett, James.


Portrait of, facing


823


" Tawasentha "


Brewster, facing 915


Taylor, Elisha


Portrait of. facing 506


Taylor, Joseph.


785


Tobey, F. B.


Hotel, facing


155


Tobey Homestead


Dennis, facing 511


Young, Jonathan.


Portrait of, facing 786


HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.


CHAPTER I.


GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY.


Location and Boundaries .- Geological Formation .- Contour of the Coast .- Surface and Soil .- The Flora of the Cape .- Effect of the Landscape on the Character of the Cape Men.


T HE peninsula forming the southeastern extremity of Massachu- setts, and embraced within the present county of Barnstable, is better known as Cape Cod. It extends easterly into the Atlantic forty miles, thence northerly thirty-five miles to its extremity in north latitude 42°, 4'.


The geographical name it bears was first applied in 1602, by Gos- nold, to its most northern portion. Its position, contour and import- ance early earned the sobriquet of " The Right Arm of Massachusetts," which it appropriately bears, having its shoulder, elbow, wrist and hand symbolically poised over the deep, as if beckoning the dispirited pilgrims to cross over and rest safely under the palm; and pointing toward Plymouth, indicating the haven where should be planted the seeds of civil and religious liberty that should bloom to the admira- tion of the world. It has Plymouth county and Buzzards bay for its western boundary, Vineyard and Nantucket sounds for its southern, the ocean for the eastern, and Cape Cod bay for the northern boundary, being twenty miles in width across the shoulder, tapering to eight at the elbow, two at the wrist, and then widening to a hand.


Its geological formation has been hastily considered by scientific writers, who have recorded various and varying conclusions-perhaps facts-which may be modified by more minute researches in the future light of science; but thus far the man who, after Agassiz, knows most about the subject, says that a great interrogation point might be appropriately set against the whole topic, to denote as yet an unan- swered inquiry, but it is gratifying to know that a gentleman of the United States Geological Survey spent the past year on and about the Cape, from whose reports a valuable and more conclusive opinion will


1


2


HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.


in due time be published by the government. It is, however, conceded that the Cape is wholly, or so far as yet determined, of drift; but some of the strata may prove by future research to belong to the tertiary or upper mesozoic, still there is no lithological or paleontological evi- dence of any claim to a position below the first division of the last glacial period. The depth of this drift was thought, by Professor Agassiz, to be forty feet; but upon the extreme north end of the Cape an artesian well was recently sunk 140 feet without touching stratified rock, yet it is possible that the point at Provincetown, where this well was sunk, may have been extended by sand deposits, and that the body of the peninsula may have a different substrata, yet unde- termined as to its formation.


Another evidence of its glacial formation is seen in the well-defined moraines with which the Cape abounds, the most marked being the great central ridge. The Buzzards bay branch of the moraine com- mences at the Elizabeth islands and extends in a northerly direction along the east side of the bay to the town of Bourne, where it turns easterly, continuing along the northerly side of the Cape into Orleans; and Doctor Hitchcock defines the broken undulations of Truro and Wellfleet as parts of a continuous moraine of a distinctive character. From the morainic angle at Bourne, extending to the northward, is the Plymouth moraine, of which only the southern continuation per- tains to this county. Between Woods Holl and Bourne the moraine presents an unbroken line of ridges, which is continued east as far as Yarmouth, then we find this morainal ridge interrupted by gaps, and in Brewster and Orleans losing the distinctive morainal characteristics by the overwashing and overriding of water and ice.


The boulders deposited along and upon the Buzzards bay and east- ern moraine are further evidence of glacial formation. That of Buz- zards bay has this deposit of boulders on both sides, and on the east and central they are more thickly strown on the northern face. except in the town of Dennis, where they were deposited more along the apex. Brought here in the glittering chariots of ancient icebergs- those most wonderful, uncommon carriers-these huge masses of Quincy granite, with others from perhaps north of Labrador, left their failing vehicle as it weakened under the quiet influence of the gulf stream-that other most wonderful of Nature's agencies-and so here we find them extending into Orleans and more or less along the top of the ridge the entire extent of the moraine; but the south slope is comparatively free from those of any significance. Many are deeply imbedded in the drift, and some are found within the salt marshes. Some have well rounded forms, others are split. and still others are eroded into weird shapes, bearing the seeming footprints of man and animals on their upper surfaces. A large boulder in the


3


GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY.


west part of Brewster is called Rent rock because of its peculiar dis- memberment; another in Eastham is of sufficient altitude to be of use as a landmark for seamen; and the granite boulder of the town of Barnstable has been perpetuated in history as the place of the first town meeting and church service for the Puritan settlers. The hard, blue clay vein which has been thought to underlie the upper Cape, crops out near the great swamp on the bay side of Truro, and running across that town in a northeasterly direction, forms the clay banks at the Highland Light, where the bluff shore bank of almost solid clay rises over one hundred feet above the tide.


The contour of the Cape presents various indentations by bays and harbors, with their intervening bars and points, which are more or less changing yearly. Accompanied by the reader, let us pass around its perimeter, commencing at the head of Buzzards bay. Nothing of note is discernable here at the head of the bay, but two miles south we find the mouth of Monument river, where the Dutch trading vessels visited the post of the pilgrims; and around. a point just below is Back River harbor-one terminus of the proposed ship canal. Wenaumet neck is a prominent peninsula extending into the bay, giving protec- tion to Red Brook harbor on its south, which opens into Cataumet harbor, between Bourne and Falmouth. The indentations along the Falmouth coast on the bay are Wild harbor on the north and Hog island two miles below. Quisset harbor is north of Woods Holl, from which the coast runs irregularly southwest, terminating in Long neck, enclosing Great harbor. The coast from the head of the bay to Woods Holl is fringed with salt marshes of more or less extent, the Falmouth shore being bold and sandy, with a distribution of boulders.


In our course along the Vineyard sound coast we find Little harbor south of Woods Holl, where the buoy depot of the government is located, and here we also find the boldest portion of the south shore of the Cape. The various ponds and bays of the Falmouth coast run- ning far into the town, have not sufficient depth at their mouths to form harbors until we reach Waquoit bay which, in high tide, is used by vessels of light draught. Eastward, around the sandy shore of Mashpee, is Popponesset bay, the dividing line between that town and Barnstable-a bay used for small shipping and enclosing Little and Great necks of Mashpee. Around the neck comprising that part of Barnstable known as Cotuit we find on the east side, Cotuit bay, enclosing Oyster island and opening into Great bay, which is further inland: New harbor, Squaw island and Hyannis harbor complete the south coast of Barnstable in its circuitous course easterly, the latter harbor opening into Lewis bay, which is safe and commodious, with Point Gammon for its protection on the south. This coast is low and sandy, undergoing frequent change, and Dog-fish bar has formed,


4


HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.


extending several miles eastward to opposite the Bass River harbor, between Yarmouth and Dennis. The bays and coves of Bass river form anchorage for fishing vessels, and the harbor at its mouth is important. The bays along the coast of Dennis and Harwich are inconsiderable, yet by the southward bend of Harding's beach on the Chatham coast and the southwestern extension of Monomoy point these towns have ample anchorage. East of the beach named is Stage harbor, spreading its arms into the town of Chatham, all of which have safe anchorage inside when the bar across the mouth is safely passed at high water.




Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.