History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890, Part 67

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: New York : Blake
Number of Pages: 1292

USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890 > Part 67

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The Boston store, by John J. Howes, is exclusively a dry goods es- tablishment. He started in the Library building, in April, 1886, and removed his goods to his present store in July, 1887, purchasing the

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TOWN OF CHATHAM.

building the following month. The store building was erected in 1SS1 for a post office, and was occupied by Charles E. Ellis in 1885 for dry goods; R. F. Smith carried it on from October, 1886, to its pur- chase by Mr. Howes.

Hattie E. Gill started a millinery store here in 1879, and after an absence of two years, again opened a store in 1886. After a busi- ness of one year, she built her present store and removed across the street to it, where the ladies find boots and shoes, ladies' wear and millinery goods. She enlarged her buildings in 1889.

Samuel M. Atwood has an extensive market on the east side of Main street. In this he began in March, 1889. He moved the build- ing from West Chatham in 1887, where it had been a store, occupied by Captain Ephraim P. Steele. He has followed the business here since 1855, and is one of the oldest active men of the street. His cus- tomers are regularly served by wagon. He has retailed ice for the past twenty-five years, and is the only one in town so engaged. He has a fresh pond on his farm, from which he obtains his supply. He resides on the Richard Sears farm. Another important market fur- ther east on Main street is that of W. F. Harding. In July, 1888, he placed a stock of groceries and general provisions in his store.

An important factor of the Chatham business is the bakery of Kimble R. Howes. His main building was erected for the post office of Josiah Mayo, near Sullivan Rogers' store. In 1884 Mr. Howes moved and enlarged it, converting it into a bakery, and the same year he purchased and moved to the former bakery building the south addition, which gives him ample room for his business.

In 1871 Erastus Nickerson purchased an interest in the marine rail- way, which he ran about two years; but having had eight years' ex- perience in the grocery trade at Booth Bay, Maine, he preferred that. In December, 1873, he purchased where he is, near the Congregational church, and commenced his present grocery business. He has greatly enlarged and beautified the building.

Isaiah and Simeon Harding had a store over by the shore, which business they sold to Andrew Harding in 1865. Mr. Harding had started a store on Water street in 1864, but bought and combined the two. In 1871, in connection with his stock of paints and oils, he started the painting business with H. M. Smith.

Atlantic Hall was the name given to a building, which was burned, near the Universalist church. Another was erected and called Wash- ington Hall, which, after the erection of the town hall, was sold in 1879 to E. M. Nickerson, who moved it across the street and converted it into a billiard hall and bowling alley.

If the reader will accompany us down Atwood street to the harbor he will pass Oyster pond, where George S. Atwood, John W. Vanhise

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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

and others plant and harvest lucious oysters; we arrive at the town clerk's office, kept in the general store of Levi Atwood. The next business place, to the south, that of Zenas Nickerson, was the old school house, over by the lights. He moved it in 1871, and opened a general grocery and provision store. In 1868 he began trade in flour and grain, and now, with the coal business, the wind mill near by to be run, the interest he retains in Union wharf and its storehouses, he has enough business for himself and his sons. Next, at the left, is the Crystal Spring laundry, of which Walter S. H. Eldridge has been owner and proprietor since 1885.

At the foot of the street, on Stage harbor, is the marine railway of Oliver E. Eldridge and Thomas S. Arey, doing business under the firm name of Eldridge & Arey. In 1863 Oliver Eldridge, father of Oliver E., purchased the railway at Nantucket, transported and placed it at the Union wharf, a short distance to the west. In 1877 this firm purchased and removed it to its present site, by the side of which, in 1879, the wharf, called Steamboat, was built. This street has long been prominent in the history of the village. Joseph Atwood very early had a store in his house, and more than half a century ago built a building for his trade, and that was subsequently moved to the corner near Levi Atwood's store, where it is used as a dwelling. Jame S. At- wood also had an ancient store on this street.

On the street opening south from the Methodist Episcopal church, John H. Taylor, in 1879, opened a general store. In 1889 he added undertaking, and practices arterial embalming. In 1863 Benjamin S. Cahoon opened business on Depot street, keeping paints and oils, and in 1879 added undertaking.

In 1860 the street in front of the town hall-an extension of Main street-was opened. The previous year Washington Taylor had pur- chased the site and erected his present fine buildings. He began a store in 1850 on the old street north of Oyster pond, and removed to the new one in 1859.

In 1862 Collins Howes, with J. H. Tripp and Asa Nye, jr., as part- ners, opened a large outfitters' store on Harding's beach. Ample build- ings had been erected, also a wharf, on the bay side. In 1864 Mr. Nye went to Booth Bay, Me., and in 1866 Augustus L. Hardy became a partner, under the firm name of J. H. Tripp & Co. In 1875 Hardy and Tripp moved part of the business to Hyannis, and Collins Howes has continued here since. In its palmy days this wharf and store was the place for drying and curing the cargoes of nearly a score of vessels, and considerable of this business is yet centered here.

Kent & Atkins have a general store north of the depot; Parker Nickerson started a general store on the shore in 1874, bringing goods from his old store; Horace Jones continues the hardware business of

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TOWN OF CHATHAM.

his brother-in-law, H. Hamilton, deceased; and along the main street may be found the usual stores.

A village like Chatham has many social circles, and the most important will only find a place in this village history. St. Martin's Lodge, A. F. & A. M., now numbers forty-seven members. It com- menced work January 27, 1872, under a dispensation, and its first elective officers were: Benjamin D. Gifford, W. M .; Harrison Hamil- ton, S. W .; Solomon Nickerson. J. W .; and Albert Thacher, secretary. Work with charter began March 12, 1873. The masters have been: Harrison Hamilton, in 1873-5; Parker Nickerson, 1875-8; Rufus K. Nickerson, 1878-80, and 1882-4; Oliver E. Eldridge, 1880-2; and B. D. Gifford, from 1SS4 to 1889. Parker Nickerson has been the secretary for several years.

The library was opened November 28. 1887, soon after the forma- tion of the association by the liberal-minded citizens. In February, 1889, the reading-room and library properties were presented to the town. The privileges granted are appreciated, and the 640 volumes of valuable works and files of journals are sought by the public.

The enterprising ladies of the village established an effective branch of the W. C. T. U. in April. 1885. It now flourishes with over sixty members.

Mutual insurance societies here are in a prosperous condition. The Royal Conclave of K. & L., Atlantic, No. 51, was established October S, 1SS9, with thirty-seven members.

The eldest mutual insurance society is the A. L. of H .. No. 937, established May 12, 1SS2. In an existence of seven years only one of its sixty members has died. C. A. Freeman was its first commander and has served every year except 1885, when Gaius Mullett was elected.

Still another mutual social circle was instituted December 26, 18SS, having for its object the payment of benefits only at death. It is the New England Order of Protection, holding its social meetings every fortnight at Masonic Hall.

At present the village has two houses for the entertainment of travelers. In 1860, Joseph Nickerson built the Ocean House, now the private residence of W. R. Taylor, on Main street, and Isaiah Hard- ing kept it one year. It was then occupied as a dwelling three years by Timothy Loveland. In 1867 Isaiah Harding purchased it and kept it five years. It was sold to Charles H. Smith, who kept it as a hotel for a few years. In the autumn of 1871 Atkins Eldridge opened the Eldridge House, near the town hall. His widow has continued the house since his death, in 1885. Sylvester K. Small, in 1884, opened to the public, the " Travelers Home." It is on an elevation on Main street, well toward the shore. In 1885 he added to the building, in

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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

order to keep pace with its growing popularity. It is sought by pleasure seekers in the summer months, but is open all the year.

James Hedge was appointed postmaster at Chatham, January 1, 1798. He was succeeded by Eleazer Cobb, appointed January 1, 1801. The next incumbent was Ezra Crowell, appointed March 12, 1802, succeeded February 15. 1821, by Theophilus Crowell. June 8, 1822, Josiah Mayo was appointed. He kept the office first in his kitchen, and afterward in a building prepared for the purpose. June 5, 1861, Ziba Nickerson was appointed and kept the office at his store. In 1881 A. M. Bearse was made postmaster, and moved the office to the Boston store building. In 1885 M. W. Howard was appointed and removed the office to his store. B. D. Gifford was appointed in June, 1889.

This important village is connected with the outside world by the Chatham railroad, via Harwich. Of the one hundred thousand dollars stock for its construction the town of Chatham holds thirty-one thousand dollars; the remainder is owned by individuals. The Old Colony company runs the road, retaining seventy per cent. of the re- ceipts. The road adds much to the wealth and business of the vil- lage. Fine depot and freight buildings were erected in 1887, at the completion of the road, and Augustus L. Hardy is the agent.

WVest Chatham is a genuine New England village, situated just west of Chatham village, south of the center, and in the most fertile portion of the town. The old burying places of the town are north- east of the village, and the settlement of this area between the grounds and the Harwich line was made early. The one street extends from the environs of Chatham to those of South Chatham, a distance of nearly two miles, lined with fine residences. Many of the inhabitants have formerly been engaged in fishing, but the industry is now nearly discontinued, and agriculture, including cranberry culture, occupies their attention.

The first store in West Chatham was kept by Stephen G. Davis, about 1830. It was on the bank of Oyster Pond river. He carried a general stock of goods and cured fish. After several years, he went to Boston, and later became cashier of the Shawmut Bank. Daniel Howes succeeded him at West Chatham in 1849, where is now the store building erected in 1882, which has since been kept by P. Eldora Harding. L. D. Buck started a grocery in 1865, which he continues in the west part of the little village. Samuel Doane had a small store prior to 1880 where John K. Kendrick resides. The last mentioned place is historic as the site of a post office for two terms. Daniel Howes was the first postmaster in an old store where the present office is located; he began about 1849. He was succeeded by Samuel Doane in his store where John K. Kendrick lives, and who, in 1881, succeeded

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Doane, and held the office until February, 1882, when P. Eldora Hard- ing was appointed.

Chatham Port is a neighborhood sparsely settled over Nickerson's neck-between Pleasant bay and Rider cove,-and at the south of the cove may be found a considerable community. The name Chat- ham Port, considered a misnomer by some, was applied when the waters surrounding that part of the town furnished the best and safest harbors. The first permanent settlement of the town was established here in 1665, by William Nickerson, and very soon after by the Eld- ridge, Crowell, Ryder and other families. A short distance above the head of Ryder cove, on a mound in a valley south of Christopher Ry- der's residence, is the site of the original William Nickerson's house; and near by, on burying hill, which was an Indian burial place, his ashes without doubt found their last resting place. The hill is over 150 feet above the sea level, and among the many mounds only three are marked by stones; those of Zenas, John and Elizabeth Ryder, who died in 1766, of smallpox. A few burials were subsequently made here, but the remains have been removed to more modern cemeteries. It was originally on William Nickerson's home farm, but has been reserved in subsequent transfers.

From burying hill, now within the premises of S. A. Bassett, can be seen the entire landscape of the north part of the town and the en- circling waters of the bays and coves; and to the south may be seen the greatly improved building, once the old parsonage in which Rev. Ephraim Briggs, and later, Rev. Stetson Raymond, lived to serve in the old church which stood near by. Long ago the elements of two centuries erased all evidence of early habitations; but one of later date remains as a connecting link with the past. It is the small house built by the grandfather of Ensign Nickerson, sr., on the neck, and was moved and refitted by the latter in his lifetime. It is now owned by S. M. Nickerson, of Chicago, one of Ensign's grandsons, and stands near the site sold by that gentleman to a Boston company, who are erecting there a fine summer hotel-the only hotel at Chatham Port. The old ordinary does not appear among the former institutions of the village; but as the old stores were permitted to "draw wines," none was needed. Ezra Crowell, called " Esquire Crowe," kept a tav- ern later, on the old Queen Anne road, near the meeting house within sight, at the southwest.

But little can be gleaned concerning the stores of the last century; they were few and small, and contained the heavy goods needed for fishing. The Nickersons and Eldridges had primitive stores then, but that first remembered by the living was by Mrs. Ensign Nicker- son in 1829. She was familiarly called "Aunt Becky," and kept a sınall store in her house for forty years. In 1849 Christopher Ryder

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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

started a store at his residence, and is still in trade. Isaac B. and Joseph Young built and opened a store in 1852 on the corner, and re- vived the fishing business; but after four years, on account of the closing of the harbor's mouth by sand, they discontinued the latter branch. The store was sold to Enos Kent, who, after a few years, re- moved the goods to his house. He died in 1875, and the business was closed. H. Harding, jr., opened a store in his house in 1889.

The Cape Cod, a schooner of sixty-five tons, was built at this village by Samuel Moody, for Lumbert Nickerson, and was launched into the bay from the premises of Ensign Nickerson.

For salt manufacturing, the coves and bays of Chatham Port af- forded the best of facilities, which were improved soon after 1800. Reuben Ryder is said to have first erected works on the shore of Pleasant bay, and his sons, Isaiah and Christopher, continued them. The second was erected by Ensign Nickerson, sr. These were suc- ceeded as rapidly as the works could be built by Kimble Ryder, his son, Kimble Ryder, jr .. Stephen Smith and his son-all on Ryder's river. Still later Ezra Crowell built extensive works on the same river and sold to Jonah and Joseph Young, the latter being an early manu- facturer elsewhere. Joshua Crowell, James Ryder and Captain Young soon established works, succeeded by Joseph, Rufus and Samuel H. Young. Edward Kent also erected works here. On Crowe's pond, in 1825, we find the works of Josiah Kendrick and Jonathan Eldridge; on Ryder's cove the works of John Taylor and Reuben Snow; and further east, in the old harbor district, Myrick Nickerson made salt. Later still Ensign Nickerson, jr., the father of Orick and Samuel M., erected works on Crowe's pond; also on the bay side, which were con- tinued until their decay in 1877. David H. Crowell confidently asserts that in 1835 around Ryder's cove he could count within sight twenty- eight wind mills for pumping brine. The only works standing in 1889 were those of Jesse Nickerson, who once owned eighteen hundred feet, and which were more or less used until 1886.

In 182S Joseph Young established the only block factory ever on the Cape. He started a water mill in 1819, just south of the corner near David Crowell's. In this he first placed, in 1821, cards for dress- ing cloth. Mr. Young next started the block-making in this building, but made them mostly by hand. In 1847 Isaac B. Young; his son, formed a co-partnership with him, after having completed machinery to manufacture by water. This is claimed to have been the first manufactory of blocks by machinery in the state. Zenas L. Marston, Samuel Young and George Young were admitted to partnership and the business was successful for a period of ten years; then others had commenced the manufacture and this firm lost six thousand dollars in stock by the burning of their storehouse. The business was dis-

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TOWN OF CHATHAM.

continued and the factory building was moved to Chatham village, where it is still doing service.

A post-office at North Chatham supplied this people before the appointment of Enos Kent as postmaster for Chatham Port. He began the office in his store in 1862, and continued it until 1875, the year of his death. His daughter, Emma F., served until 1878, when David H. Crowell, who was appointed, removed the office to his resid- ence. In July, 1889, he was succeeded by Osborn Nickerson, who keeps the office at his house.

North Chatham is a beautiful village situated in the northeastern part of the township. The surface of the entire neck between the Bassing place and the sea is uneven and undulating, but the prettiest residences have been erected upon the highest knolls and command a fine view of the harbor, shoals and ocean beyond. Strong island, Nauset beach, and the irregular shores of Orleans on the north, relieve the vision from the vast expanse of ocean, and the village is becom- ing noted as a summer resort. The territory was early settled by the families who succeeded William Nickerson and those who came across from old Eastham. Fishing, coasting and foreign service have been the principal occupations of the inhabitants, and in no other portion of the town comparatively are found more or a better representation of these worthy callings than among the retired and active sons of North Chatham. Other industries have not been neglected. In the period between 1825 and 1835 the brig Cashier was built near Salathiel Nickerson's shore: and the schooners Classic, Luna, Bertha, Anson, Exit, and Philantropic were launched near the old wharf. This wharf was built by Smith Eldridge about 1830, or prior, and was broken up by the sea in 1851. Near there, in 1833, Orick Nickerson had a coasting schooner of eighty tons built; and in 1834 another of similar capacity. The builder was Anthony Thacher, son of William, who was the first to build vessels in the town.

A store was built with the wharf by Mr. Eldridge, both of which were purchased in 1834 by Ensign Nickerson, jr. The business was conducted by Orick Nickerson for fifteen years, when he removed part of the store building to Monomoy point, where, it is doing ser- vice as a dwelling. and sold the wharf and real estate to Zenas Atkins. At that time Richard, Salathiel, Caleb and Myrick Nicker- son, Zenas Taylor, Joshua Atkins, Mulford Howes and others, were largely engaged in fishing. The available anchorage then was dotted with vessels when home from the Banks, and the shores were lined with drying flakes. After the interruption of this branch of thrift by the destruction of the wharf and closing of the harbor by shifting sands, another wharf was built in 1855, by Zenas Atkins, Christopher Taylor, Clement Kendrick and several

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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

others in smaller shares. This wharf and the fitful revival of the fishing interest were effectually destroyed in a few years from the same cause.

Prior to these wharves and in connection with the fishing interest the manufacture of salt was important. The stores around North Chatham and the attention of the people were alike fully occupied in its production. From Myrick Nickerson's works on Ryder's river there were to the east those of Prince Harding, John Ryder, Benjamin Dunbar, Joseph Taylor, Zenas Taylor and Salathiel Nickerson; at Old Harbor were those of Timothy Loveland, sr .- five thousand feet- Joshua Atkins, Allen Nickerson and Caleb Nickerson; and to the south of these the shore was lined with the works of Thomas Howes, Rich- ard Nickerson and others; while well toward the village of Chatham were the extensive works of Richard Sears. The evidence of the existence of this long shore line of salt vats has been obliterated, and but few are living of the enterprising spirits who owned or managed them.

The first store here, of which reliable tradition speaks, was one kept in 1820 by Isaiah Nye and William Hamilton. In 1829 Mr. Nye moved, and started a store on the main road near the old meeting house, Mr. Hamilton continuing the first until he sold it to Joshua Nickerson, who in turn sold it to Captain Benjamin T. Freeman in 1853. Mr. Freeman continued in the store on the shore a few years, then erected and removed to the store now occupied by his son, C. A. Freeman, who succeeded him in 1884. After the store connected with the old wharf another store at the new wharf was kept by Zenas Atkins several years. Among others, Thacher Ryder was a promi- ent merchant here, opening a store at Old Harbor soon after 1820. At his death, in 1863, his son-in-law, David H. Crowell, of Chatham Port, removed the goods to his residence, where he not only sold them out, but continued in the business several years.

The only tavern regularly kept in the village was by John King, who sold in 1803 to Timothy Loveland, father of the present resident of that name, who discontinued in 1805. This old stand is situated opposite the present Baxter House, a beautiful summer hotel, refitted in 1886 by Hattie Baxter.

Isaiah Nye was the first postmaster at North Chatham, appointed January 18, 1828. He kept the office at the store of Nye & Hamilton. Shadrack N. Howland, appointed March 19, 1831, was the next incum- bent; Joshua Nickerson, jr., succeeded him April 17, 1837; and Thacher . Ryder, in 1854, was postmaster, with the office on the north side of Old Harbor. In 1861 Captain Benjamin T. Freeman, as postmaster, removed the office to his store, and in 1884 he was succeeded by C. A. Freeman, his son, who continues it at the same place.

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The distance from North Chatham to the principal center of the town is short, and the wayside cottages are so thickly interspersed over the landscape that the two villages may be almost called one.

South Chatham is not as old a village as West, but excels it in many ways. It is further from the larger villages on either side, and its business is more confined within itself. A fine school building, erected for three departments, and a new depot greet the eye of the traveler who alights from the train. As the visitor walks westerly along the well-kept street, he sees the store of Joshua Eldridge, who for forty years has been engaged in a small grocery trade. The first store here of importance was erected in 1839 by Levi Eldridge, where he opened a general stock. In 1843 his brother, Hiram T., assumed the business which, at his death in 1854, was resumed by the original proprietor. This is not all in which Levi Eldridge is engaged. In 18SS, with his son-in-law, Cyrus W. Kelley, he opened a coal yard at the depot, and removing here their lumber yard from Deep Hole, the firm now keep in stock coal, lumber, wood, hay and harnesses.

The fishing business was formerly the leading industry here, and many years ago Levi Eldridge, with others, erected a wharf on the bay, at a point just over the line of Harwich, where fish were cured and packed. After a few years he became sole owner, repaired the wharf after the ice had once nearly destroyed it, then gradually closed out his fishing interests, and allowed the wharf to go to pieces in 1887. Levi Eldridge and John G. Doane, in 1866, had six vessels in the cod and mackerel fishing, for which they cured and packed, and packed the mackerel for seven other vessels. After the death of Mr. Doane the business was continued by Mr. Eldridge, aided by his son, who died in 1884. Then he sold the vessels and closed this branch in 1887. The statistics of this one firm would be a fair index of the de- cline of this industry throughout the Cape. In 1881, Mr. Eldridge, as inspector for his and other's fish at that wharf, reported 8.932 bar- rels of his own mackerel; in 1882 he had 6,983 barrels; in 1883 only 4,304 barrels; in 1884, 4,216; in 1885, 2,040; and in 1886 but a very few. Now agriculture, especially cranberry culture, commands the attention of the citizens.

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History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890, Part 67

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed Publication date: 1890 Publisher: New York : Blake Number of Pages: 1292

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: New York : Blake
Number of Pages: 1292