USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890 > Part 108
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The close of the war of 1812 marks the beginning of a period of prosperity which, heightened rather than lessened by the peculiar conditions attending the civil war of 1861-1865, has continued with slight interruptions to the present time. To the suppression of this civil war Provincetown contributed most liberally, as stated in Chap- ter VII. The first town meeting to take into consideration affairs relating to the war was held May 2, 1861, and voted to pay to every volunteer from Provincetown in the army or navy twenty dollars, together with " ten dollars a month for single men, and men having wives only and fifteen dollars a month to men having families while in the service." The United Stateserected a battery upon Long Point during the war and for a time maintained there a garrison of volun- teers. Fortunately the town was spared the suffering that the inva- sions of the enemy had caused in previous wars, and but for the loss of life and the loss of several vessels by the Sumter, Alabama and other confederate cruisers, experienced an uninterrupted business prosperity during the years of strife.
The efforts of the town to protect the interests of the state and nation have not been confined wholly to times of war. In 1805 the
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town petitioned for a lighthouse upon Race point, a request that was not granted until 1816, when the United States established a light- house at that important maritime station. June 20, 1826. the state consented to the purchase by the United States of not more than four acres of land at Long point for the erection of a lighthouse, reserving. however, to the state and to the town of Provincetown jurisdiction over the land for all civil and criminal processes. The lighthouse was built there the same year. The United States also acquired in 1864 jurisdiction over all that portion of Long point extending from the extremity to a line drawn true west through the northern point of House Point island, subject, however, to the civil and criminal processes of the judicial tribunals of the Commonwealth. In 1872 the United States erected a lighthouse at Wood End. The light- houses thus generously furnished by the United States render the harbor at Provincetown easily accessible in all weathers.
The manifest advantages of Provincetown as a sea-port. and the need of accommodations for the rapidly increasing fishing fleet, early created a need for wharves. Thomas Lothrop constructed the first wharf in town, in the vicinity of Masonic Hall, against the advice of his neighbors, who believed that the sea would soon cut away the sand from the piles and destroy the wharf. His successful experi- ment was followed by the erection of other wharves. In 1831 the Union wharf was built upon the site of the present wharf of that name, although Jonathan Nickerson, Thomas Nickerson, Stephen Nickerson and Samuel Soper were not incorporated as the Union Wharf Company until 1833. The Central wharf was built in 1839. Between 1838 and 1848 numerous grants for wharves at Province- town are recorded, among which are grants to Freeman and Joseph Atkins in 1846, to extend their wharf; John Atwood, jr., in 1848; Solomon Bangs, in 1848; James Chandler, in 1848; Simeon Conant, in 1847; Joshua Dyer, in 1848; Samuel Cook, in 1846: Jesse Cook, to extend, in 1848; Parker Cook, to extend, in 1847; K. W. Freeman. in 1847; Isaiah Gifford, in 1847; Jonathan Hill and Joseph P. John- son, in 1847; Stephen Hilliard, to extend, in 1846; Timothy P. John- son, to extend, in 1846; Thomas Lothrop, to extend, in 1844; John Nickerson, to extend, in 1846; Seth Nickerson, to build, in 1848; God- frey Rider, in 1845; Daniel Small, in 1848; Elisha Young, in 184S.
The shipping required, however, still further accommodations. In 1848, accordingly, Freeman Atkins, Eben S. Smith, William A. Atkins and others were incorporated as the Provincetown Marine Railway, with power to construct a railway easterly of Central wharf. In 1852 Charles A. Hannum, Stephen Nickerson, Alfred Nickerson and others were incorporated as the Union Marine Railway, with power to build a railway at Union wharf. In 1864 Epaphras K. Cook, Ephraim
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
Cook, Ebenezer Cook and others were incorporated as the Eastern Marine Railway, to construct a railway from the wharf of E. and E. K. Cook. The Eastern Marine Railway was discontinued in the winter of 1874-75.
As the population increased and the business interests of the town developed, a need arose for more rapid means of communication than were afforded by the old time packet and the lumbering stage coach. In 1842 and 1843 the steamer Express ran between Boston and Pro- vincetown by way of Plymouth. In 1849, 1850 and 1851 the Naushon, commanded in turn by Captain Upham Grozier, Henry Paine and Nathan Nicholson of Wellfleet. made trips to Provincetown, Well- fleet, and in summer to Dennis. From 1857 to 1861 the Acorn, Captain Gibbs of Hyannis, and afterward Captain Richard Stevens of Pro- vincetown, made regular trips between Boston and Provincetown. The Acorn was followed by the George Shattuck, built in 1862-3, com- manded by Captain Gamaliel B. Smith. S. T. Kilbourne, mate, and N. Porter Holmes, clerk. The Shattuck ran on the route until 1874, when the United States ran for one season, and was succeeded by the Acushnet in 1875 for two seasons. In 1883, the Longfellow, Captain John Smith, was built expressly for the route, and still remains in service, affording a fast, safe and convenient means of communication be- tween Provincetown and Boston. In 1863 Bowly's wharf, erected in 1849, was extended to the deep waters of the harbor for the accom- modation of the Shattuck and became the steamboat wharf of the town.
At a meeting of the proprietors of Truro April 26, 1715, a vote was passed to apply to the court of quarter sessions for the County of Barnstable for a highway to be laid out from Eastham to Truro and through Truro down to and through the province lands upon Cape Cod. It is not probable, however. that at this early date any attempt was made to lay out a definite highway across the sand banks to the north of Eastern Harbor meadows from Truro to Provincetown, along which for many years travelers between the two towns were forced to pass, in winter, a bleak, dreary way; in summer hot and dusty. As late as 1798 the town voted "to petition to have a post to come down to the Cape," an indication, perhaps, that the roads were at that time but little used for public travel. In 1835 a county road from George Lewis' residence to Lancy's corner was laid out twenty-two feet in width, at a cost of $1,273.04 for land damages. Before the es- tablishing of the county road the shore had been for many years a frequently used way, and in many places the only means of com- munication. April 12, 1854, an act of the legislature authorized the commissioners of Barnstable county to construct a bridge over East harbor at Beach point, and a bridge costing nine thousand dollars,
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of which the county contributed two thousand, was constructed. The bridge, however, was destroyed by ice in 1856 and was rebuilt in 1857. Twenty years afterward the bridge was discontinued and a solid road- bed was constructed across the channel.
In the meantime the railroad displaced the stage, for in 1873 the extension of the Cape Cod railroad from Wellfleet afforded Province- town the long coveted rapid transit by land. The town contributed largely to the attainment of the railway by subscribing $98,300 toward the stock issued for the extension, aud received in return 727 shares of the capital stock of the Old Colony Railroad Company, which were sold from time to time for $72,696.25. The railroad was opened for traffic July 22, 1873, and has proved, as had been anticipated, an im- portant factor in contributing to the prosperity of the town. Very soon after the opening of the railroad President Grant, August 28, 1874, visited Provincetown, receiving an enthusiastic welcome from the people. With the exception of a brief visit from ex-President Cleveland in 1889, Provincetown has not been honored by the pres- ence within her borders of other presidents of the United States.
In 1873 Bradford street was completed and opened to public travel, a great public improvement, rendered necessary by the continued growth of the town, its execution hastened by the opening of the railroad. The town had taken steps toward the survey early in 1869, and expended, before 1873, for land damages and for the construction of the road bed nearly twenty-nine thousand dollars.
TOWN OFFICERS .- The representatives from Provincetown prior to 1857, with date of first election and number of years' service (when more than one), were: 1810, Joseph Atkins, 2 years; 1811, Sam- uel Cook; 1812, Simeon Conant; 1813, Daniel Pease, 2; 1826, Thomas Ryder; 1827, David Ryder; 1828, Isaac Small, 6; 1833, Elisha Young; 1834, John Atkins, 7, and Enos Nickerson, 3; 1835, William Gallica; 1836, Godfrey Ryder and Joshua Cook; 1837, David Ryder, jr., 2; 1839, David Cook, 2d; 1841, Stephen A. Paine, 2; 1843, Thomas Lothrop; 1844, John Dunlap; 1845, James Gifford, 2; 1846, Stephen Hilliard, 2; 1850, Joseph P. Johnson, 5; 1852, Henry Paine; 1853, Elisha Tilson; 1856, Nathaniel E. Atwood.
The selectmen have been: 1747, John Conant, 6 years, and Thomas Newcomb; 1748, Elisha Mayo, 2, and Caleb Conant, 6; 1749, Jonathan Nickerson, 2; 1751, Solomon Cook, 2; 1753, Thomas Kilburn, 12; 1756, Ebenezer Nickerson, 3; 1757, Samuel Smith, 7; 1758, Joshua Atwccd, 2; 1760, Gershom Ryder; 1762, Benjamin Ellis; 1763, Seth Nickerson, 3, and Samuel Cook, 11; 1767, Solomon Cook, 15; 1768, Thomas Ryder, 4, and Samuel Atwood, 5; 1769, Phineas Nickerson, 2; 1770, Nehemiah Nickerson, 7; 1772, Stephen Atwood, S; 1775, Seth Nickerson, jr., 7; 1782, Stephen Nickerson, 3, and Edward Cook, 2; 1784, Reuben Orcutt,
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
2; 1786, Joshua A. Mayo, 7: 1787, Elijah Nickerson, 2; 1789, Samuel Ryder, 4; 1790, Richard Perry, 4; 1791, Charles Atkins: 1797, David Ryder, and Josiah Nickerson, 3; 1799, Ebenezer Nickerson, 3, Thomas Ryder, S, and Silas Atkins, 2; 1801, Stephen Nickerson, 4; 1804, Joseph Nickerson; 1806, Daniel Pease, 4: 1807, Benjamin E. Atkins, 2; 1808, Joseph Atkins, 2, and Orsemus Thomas, 5; 1809, John Whorf; 1811, Paran C. Cook, 2, and Simeon Conant, 7; 1813, Nathaniel Nickerson, 3; 1816, Elisha Young, 11, Abraham Smalley, and Ephraim Cook, 6; 1818, Isaac Smalley, 12; 1820, John Cook, jr., 3; 1822, Asa S. Bowley, 5: 1828, David Brown, and Thomas Nickerson, 6; 1829. Elisha Holmes, and Charles A. Brown, 3; 1830, Samuel Cook, and Samuel Soper, 4; 1831, Enos Nickerson, 2; 1832, Seth Nickerson, jr., 3: 1833, John At- kins, 4, and Gamaliel Collins, 4; 1834, Elisha Dyer; 1836, Nathan Free- man, 2d, 4; 1837, Ebenezer Atkins; 1838, Lot Paine, 2, Benjamin Ry- der, 2, and John Dunlap, 2: 1840, Parker Cook: 1842. Daniel Small, 2; 1844, Stephen Hilliard, 4: 1845, Joseph P. Johnson, 6; 1847, Ebenezer S. Smith, 2; 1848, Lemuel Cook, 3; 1849, Timothy P. Johnson, 2; 1851, John Adams, 2, and Joshua Paine, 5; 1853, Joshua E. Bowley, 2, and Nathaniel Holmes, 2; 1855. Joshua Lewis, and Benjamin Allstrum, 2; 1856, Artemas Paine, 5, and Jesse Small, 5; 1857, Ebenezer Cook, 2: 1859, E. Kibbe Cook, 2: 1861, Joseph P. Johnson, Simeon S. Gifford, 6, Robert Soper, 3, and Abraham Chapman, 3; 1864, Silas S. Young, 11, Lysander N. Paine, and Alexander Manuel, 4: 1867, Joseph P. John- son; 1868, Luther Nickerson; 1869, John Swift, 6, and Artemas Paine, 8; 1875, Benjamin Dyer, 5, and Daniel C. Cook, 4; 1876, Henry W. Cowing, 4; 1879, Bartholomew O. Gross, S; 1880, C. H. Dyer, 9, and Marshall L. Adams, 10; 1887, James A. Small, 4; 1889, Thomas Lewis, 3.
The following have served as town treasurers, the number of years indicated after their respective names: 1728, Ezekiel Cushing, 12 years; 1749, Thomas Kilburn, 18; 1751, John Conant; 1761, Eben- ezer Nickerson; 1763, Joshua Atwood, 7; 1782, Samuel Atwood, 6; 1787, Joshua A. Mayo, 6; 1793, Stephen Nickerson, 3; 1796, William Miller, 17; 1811, Seth Nickerson, 2; 1815, Nathaniel Nickerson, 9; 1823, Thomas Ryder; 1824, Rufus Conant, 5; 1829, Asa S. Bowley, 5; 1834, Charles Nickerson; 1835, Elisha Dyer, 31; 1866, Paran C. Young, 7; 1873, Seth Smith, 17.
The town clerks with date of first election and number of years service have been: 1747, Samuel Smith, 26 years; 1773, Samuel Atwood, 23; 1796, David Abbott, 3; 1798, Josiah Nickerson, S; 1806, Orsemus Thomas, 8; 1811, Samuel Cook, 2; 1816, Asa S. Bowley, 18; 1834, Charles Nickerson; since which date the respective treasurers have been also the town's clerk.
The first steps toward the organization of a fire department were
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taken at the March meeting in 1836, when a vote was passed " to buy one hand fire engine and thirty second-hand buckets, one hundred feet of leading hose, and all other necessary fixtures." The engine then bought was known as the Washington. In 1850 the Franklin was purchased. In 1859 a board of engineers, with E. G. Loring as chief, was established. Mr. Loring was succeeded by Ebenezer S. Smith. The present chief engineer, John D. Hilliard, joined the department in 1866, and succeeded Mr. Smith as chief engineer in April, 1871. October 12, 1868, two second-hand engines, built by Hunneman & Bros., in 1850, were added to the fire department and are designated respectively as the Maseppa, No. 3, and Excelsior, No. 4. In 1869 the Ulysses No. 1, and in 1871 the new Franklin No. 2 were added. The hook and ladder truck was put in service in 1853. The assistant engineers, Lysander N. Paine, George O. Knowles, John G. Whit- comb and George H. Holmes, have aided Chief Hilliard in bringing the department to a high standard. The efficiency of its fire service has doubtless saved the town from any serious conflagration. The town, however, has not been wholly free from fires, several of them causing considerable loss of property. In 1858-59 at the Bowen fire, six buildings on Commercial street between the land of Josiah F. Small and the land belonging to the estate of Jesse Cook, were totally destroyed. In 1875 Adams Hall, a large building at the corner of Winthrop and Commercial streets, was burned, the fire breaking cut during the evening of March fourth, at a time when the streets were almost impassable from snow, and threatening the destruction of the neighboring buildings, which were saved only after long continued efforts on the part of the firemen. February 16, 1877, at 8.25 p. M. the town house upon High hill was destroyed by fire, the efforts of the firemen to check the flames being ineffective. January 17, 1886, the Puritan shirt factory, owned by E. A. Buffinton of Leominster, was totally destroyed.
There is but one post office in the town and this was established about the beginning of the present century. Daniel Pease, the first postmaster, was appointed January 1, 1801. He was succeeded March 10, 1810, by Joseph Atkins, who held the office until May 29, 1816, when Orsamus Thomas was appointed. After Mr. Thomas the suc- cessive incumbents to 1860 were: Josiah Batchelder, appointed Decem- ber 20, 1822; Rufus Conant, December 6, 1824; Ezra C. Scott, December. 29, 1828; Thomas Lathrop, March 10, 1832; John L. Lathrop, April 16, 1839; Godfrey Rider, September 17, 1847; Philip Cook, July 14, 1849; Godfrey Rider, May 26, 1853; Joshua E. Bowley, 1861; B. F. Hutchin- son, 1865; Paron C. Young, May 3, 1869.
The union of parish and town made unnecessary the erection 'of public buildings for the use of the town until long after 1800, the sev -.
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eral church edifices affording the necessary accommodations for the town meetings and the town officers. In 1806 the records first allude to a building for town purposes. During an epidemic of small pox in 1801 a private dwelling surrounded by a high board fence had been set apart for a hospital. In 1806 the building thus erected was by vote of the town converted into a poorhouse and continued to be used for that purpose until the erection of an almshouse on Alden street in 1833, at an expense of $867. The Alden street house was sold in 1875 for $650, the new almshouse erected in 1870 affording the necessary accommodations for the town's poor. The present alms- house was constructed in 1870 at a cost of $6,526, affording a comfort- able and commodious home for the unfortunate dependents upon the town's charity.
In 1845 the town voted to petition the legislature to authorize the county commissioners to erect a jail at Provincetown. The jail was accordingly built upon Central street near Bradford in 1845, and con- tinued in use as the town "lockup " until 1886.
In 1851 the town voted to erect a town house upon High hill. The elevated position of the site, affording a view of the sea for many miles, rendered the hall the most conspicuous building of the town. It was built at a cost of $14,300, and was still used for town and school purposes in 1877, when it was destroyed by fire. In 1885 the town caused to be erected the present beautiful hall at the corner of Ryder and Commercial streets at a cost of $52,141. This was dedicated August 25, 1886, the governor of the Commonwealth and other distinguished guests attending the exercises. The address of the Hon. James Gif- ford, the historian of the occasion, containing a graphic description of the hall and a summary of the olden time customs of the town, was published at the time. Mr. Gifford said:
Although it is 169 years since Provincetown was incorporated, it has prior to this, built but one hall for the transaction of the town's business. The reason may be found in the circumstance that until within the recollection of persons now living, the town and parish were in their functions and administration nearly identical, so that ' the meeting house furnished pulpit and forum. The town govern- ment, in its earlier days was therefore essentially a theocracy. A majority of its voters and of its officials, were members of the church of the old standing order, the same persons being generally appointed or elected to serve both town and parish. That they governed fairly and well there is little dispute. Indeed the moral discipline and homogeneous character of the early settlers, chiefly descendants of the Pilgrims and of their immediate successors, supplying the place of law, they required little interference, restraint or direction from the local authorities.
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As evidence that these traits have not become altogether extinct in their posterity here, the fact may be cited that not a murder has ever been committed in this town, nor has there ever been a native in- habitant of the place sentenced to state's prison.
Beside exemption from the cost of town halls, our predecessors also enjoyed immunity from the construction and support of public roads. Dwellings and buildings here were for the most part built upon the shore, close to the water's edge, and the tide, then un- obstructed by wharf or encumbrance from one end of the port to the other, was the common highway upon which, until within fifty-five years, the transportation of the town was done. Not alone did the water serve as a highway for the conveyance of goods and the pro- ducts of the fisheries. Did the family, or any of its members, desire to visit at a distant part of the village, the boat was called into requisition as carriage, or coach. Brought to the door and having taken aboard its precious freight, it was pushed off the beach in charge of father, brother or friend, who were unexcelled in handling or sail- ing their craft. Over this placid highway, broader, grander than Appian Way, visits were made and returned, and the social life of the place enhanced. Nor is there record or tradition of the occur- rence of any serious accident during the century and more this mode of travel was in use.
We can well believe, however, that the lady passengers in these small boats did not always escape tasting salt water. Yet were they not appalled by it. They didn't mind a little spray from the weather bow, but were exhilarated rather by the dash of the sea, when, as the sheets were hauled aft and the boat, responding to the impulse of the freshening breeze, went flying on her course. Clad in attire suited to their needs, fear of dampening crimps or soiling indescrib- able bonnets did not banish enjoyment of the sail. The entire absence of horses from the place at the period cited, was thus made good by boats. No favorite of the race course was more doated on than was the fastest sailer and best sea boat. A little incident illus- trates the attachment of the boatman to his boat. When the skipper of a somewhat larger craft who was in the practice of crossing Barn- stable bay, a distance of some thirty miles, alone, was remonstrated with for not taking along another man or boy to pick him up in case he should fall overboard, the skipper replied: "I know its a little risky. I've thought of it. I've thought if I should get knocked over- board by the main boom out in the bay, alone, I didn't know what would become of the sloop."
As I have stated, the town possessed, prior to this, but one hall. That was erected in 1854, upon the top of the hill in the rear of this building. It had two strong recommendations; it occupied the
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
most conspicuous site the town could boast. Admirably completing the central outline and background to the village, it served as an excel- lent beacon to storm-imperilled sailors approaching our coast from sea. But for the transaction of the town's business, except, perhaps, during the pendency of some exciting election or question, and for all social uses, it might as well have been moored upon Stellwagner's bank, in Massachusetts bay. True the high school was kept there, and its dullest pupils were made to understand that ascending the hill of science was not merely a figure of speech. If in fine weather the view from the hill was pleasing, during the terrific storms not in- frequent here, the girl approaching or leaving the school who avoided the perils of the slate flying at her from the roof at the rate of seventy- five knots, or escaped impalement upon the iron pickets of the fence surrounding it, had good reason for uttering a prayer of thanks- giving.
That this is not a fancy sketch may be inferred from the incident that one young lady pupil still survives, who, on leaving the house upon one occasion, was lifted from the ground by the gale, and after being helplessly hurled about the premises, was finally suspended upon this fence, with a picket through her cheek. Hence, when on the night of February 16, 1879, some accidental or providential hand applied the torch, and the town and high school house vanished in a glowing chariot of flame, with all the town as spectators, there was felt little genuine regret.
The central part of this site, including most of that covered by the building, had been the homestead of a much respected and one of the oldest families in town, that of the late Godfrey Ryder, sr. It had recently become the patrimony of a distinguished member of that family, who was born upon this spot, and now the honored resident of a distant western city.# The question was anxiously debated in com- mittee, whether or not he would be willing to part with this estate for an adequate consideration, and for the purposes indicated. Half ap- prehensive of a refusal, you can judge of the committee's gratification when the response to their application came, in substance, that the possessor would not only part with it for a site for a town hall, but in token of the attachment he still cherished towards the place of his birth, its conveyance would be a gift to the town. Subsequently, when the necessity for enlargement of the site became apparent, and steps were taken for the purchase of three other adjoining estates, he claimed the privilege of paying for these also. The entire site thus bestowed, and bordering upon three streets, comprises an area of twenty-two thousand five hundred feet of land, of a value of not less than four thousand dollars.
* Rev. Doctor Ryder, of Chicago.
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By a younger scion of another old and estimable family, who is also a citizen of another city, Mr. John F. Nickerson, of Somerville, is donated the valued gift of the fine toned bell suspended in the tower of this building.
Nor is the list of Provincetown's benefactors yet exhausted. We have yet another to thank. Not indeed a native, but with good fight, an adopted son of the old town. When, in 1826, Connecticut, enter- taining a profound aversion to mischievous boys, sent here an impul- sive, green, bright, jolly, saucy lad# of thirteen, to hoe his way, and to try his muscle with the resident young tarpaulins and blue-jackets of the day, she knew as little what she had lost, as did Provincetown what she had gained. It didn't take long for the boys and people to find out. Both have long since known that when the interest of the community required personal sacrifice, when public spirit was to be evoked, enterprise promoted, or charity solicited, the exile from Con- necticut could always be relied upon to lend a hand or to lead the way. Indeed his inability to say no, especially when the hat went round, has long since become the village proverb. Hence when the erection of this hall became an established fact, our presiding officer could no more help contributing to this enterprise in some way than he could help having been born in Connecticut. And what gift more striking, or timely than the clock! And while none will desire to hasten, by a single span, his final departure hence, we are neverthe- less admonished by his venerable locks and shining crown, that he can not always remain with us, nor always preside over our town meet- ings. Then what more useful and constant pledge of interest in his adopted home could he leave? Each stroke of this clock will suggest to the present and future inhabitants of the town, the engagements, the duties and obligations of the passing hour. Thus will it serve as a perpetual monitor, as well as a perpetual memorial of merits uni- versally acknowledged and as widely esteemed.
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