USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890 > Part 54
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This fluctuating and changeful tendency of population, as in other country towns, is indicated by a survey of the business of the north side of Yarmouth for the last century. One hundred years ago the village of Hockanom, where now but two or three dwellings remain, was a thriving community, in which ship-building was carried on successfully, and where there were several prosperous farmers. After that, the region known as Town Dock, was the scene of busy life, where the Boston packet and coasting vessels were wont to resort. Then the region of the port was the center of the business activity of the north side. There were, forty years ago, two wharves here, both needed for the business of the town-which were known as central wharf, and Simpkins' wharf-and from thirty to forty vessels, of from twenty-five to one hundred tons burthen, were engaged in the fish- ing and coasting business. Now, neither of these wharves is occu- pied; the buildings upon and near them have mostly gone to decay, and the vessels have all been sold or have gone the way of all old hulks.
Although not a business community to any great extent, the north side of Yarmouth is a place of residences, with many very pretty houses, neatly kept estates, and with all the public institu- tions which minister to the taste, intelligence and moral advance- ment of the people. The estate of the Simpkins family; that of Henry C. Thacher, comprising the paternal homestead, and a fine cottage in the Queen Anne style of architecture; and the residence
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4. THE CATE
"SANDY SIDE." LATE RESIDENCE OF MRS. JOHN SIMPKINS YARMOUTH PORT MASS.
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TOWN OF YARMOUTH.
of Mrs. Dr. Azariah Eldridge, are conspicuous among several others, hardly less attractive and elegant.
" Sandy Side," the subject of the accompanying illustration, was built by Mrs. Simpkins upon the death of her husband, John Simp- kins (a son of the late Nathaniel Stone Simpkins), and was her residence until her heath, and is now the summer home of her family.
There has always been a taste for forestry and arboriculture among the people. There is evidence of the existence of a tree planting society here more than seventy-five years ago, by which the streets were skirted with rows of stately looking poplars. In 1843 the town granted leave to Amos Otis, Edward Thacher and Oliver Hallet to plant trees on each side of the street at Yarmouth Port; and to them, as the committee of nearly all the citizens, we are indebted for the rows of beautiful elms which are the pride and glory of our streets. Later still, a village improvement society undertook to trim, train and supply deficiencies in the trees upon our highways, with satisfactory results, thus far.
In 1845, by actual count, there were thirty-five masters of ships or other square-rigged vessels resident between Barnstable line and White's brook. Now they may be counted on the fingers of one hand. There are some good farming lands here, the cranberry cul- ture is successful, and summer residents, more and more, seek each year our orderly and romantic woods and groves, the shady and en- ticing streets, and the pleasant eminences, commanding views of the seacoast from old Plymouth to the " city in the sand,"-a region of nearly a hundred miles in extent, but so situated on a crescent that nearly all parts of the coast are in view from this central point of ob- servation.
There are several of the ancient structures still here. The house occupied by Benjamin Lovell is about two hundred years old. It was built by Timothy, grandson of Andrew Hallet, jr., the prominent citizen two hundred years ago. The house at the corner of Hallet and Wharf streets is some 180 years old. It was built by Thomas Hallet. The house occupied by Eben A. Hallet is about the same age. The house of George T. Thacher was built by his illustrious an- cestor, Anthony, for his equally distinguished son, John. The eastern wing of the house now in possession of Hannah Crowell contains the timbers of the first church in Yarmouth. When the parish built a new church they gave to the widow Sturgis the frame of the old church, which may now be seen in the building before mentioned. The frames of all these buildings are in a good state of preservation, and Mr. G. T. Thacher, in a most commendable spirit, keeps the par- lor of his house in precisely the form in which it was built by his ancestor, and has been preserved by seven generations of the family.
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
The Simpkins homestead is situated on the eastern side of the com- mon. in Yarmouth Port. This common was a reservation of about two acres, made by the proprietors of the common lands, about 225 years ago, for the use of the inhabitants who might resort to it to manufacture brick for their dwellings, but some thirty or forty years since it was leveled, graded and improved by setting upon its borders ornamental trees. The house of Mr. Nathaniel S. Simpkins was built about seventy years ago by Captain Edmund Hawes, who was subse- quently lost at sea, and the estate was afterward acquired by Mr. Simpkins, who improved and remodeled it, and planted the trees and shrubbery which adorn its grounds. Here his children were born and reared, here he passed the latter portion of his long and eventful life, and here his son, George W. Simpkins of St. Louis, the present owner of the property, passes a portion of his time.
In the early time the grist mill was an important institution. It was not then as it is now, when we can have our meal ground and sifted by patent. In one of the town meeting reports occurs the allit- erative phrase, " The meeting, the mill and the market." There was early, and until within a few years, a mill at the Stony cove stream, between Barnstable and Yarmouth. The last grists were ground there some twenty years since. There is also a record of permission granted, in 1697, to set up a wind mill on the " commons," the mill not to be rated. In 1702 six pounds was granted as a gratuity to Thomas Sturgis and others, the owners of the wind mill, for repairs, they agreeing to grind for a toll of two quarts per bushel for the term of three years; but in 1704 the town released Mr. Sturgis and his asso- ciates from this agreement.
On the first of January, 1795, a post office with a weekly mail was established here, with Thomas Thacher as postmaster, the office being then in the house now owned by George T. Thacher. The govern- ment records show the appointments of postmasters here as follows : Calvin Tilden, October 1, 1806; Henry Thacher, July 1, 1808; Joshua Hamblin, April 5, 1813; Oliver Alden, May 29, 1826; Benjamin Mat- thews, jr., June 15, 1829; James Matthews, December 13, 1836; Charles Thacher, May 26, 1847; Frederick Dunbar, January 22, 1853.
The Yarmouth Port post office was established February 18, 1829, and Timothy Reed was appointed postmaster. Edward Thacher was commissioned February 3, 1837; Nathan Hallet, jr., July 21, 1849, and Thomas Arey, June 15, 1853.
During the last seventy-five or eighty years there have been sev. eral trading establishments of reputation here. Prior to 1817, one important business of the stores was the liquor traffic. At that time seventeen stores were in operation between White's brook and Barn -- stable line. In addition to the inevitable "wet goods " department,
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THE HOMESTEAD. SUMMER RESIDENCE OF GEORGE W. SIMPKINS, YARMOUTH PORT, MASS,
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TOWN OF YARMOUTH.
they sold cloths, prints, provisions, etc. After that the number of stores decreased to the legitimate wants of the public. Henry Thach- er, father of Henry C. and Thomas, kept a large-for the times- stock of staple dry goods and groceries. A part of his store is now unused. He was succeeded in business by his son Thomas, who about forty years ago transferred the business to James Knowles. At the death of Mr. Knowles, about 1880, his son A. A. Knowles succeeded to the business and still continues it. Hon. David Thacher, about the beginning of the century, carried on an extensive mercantile business in the house now occupied by James G. Hallet, Yarmouth Port. Mr. Samuel Thacher, at Yarmouth, was many years engaged in trade at his old stand, near his house. He was succeeded, some years ago. by his son, Isaac H. Thacher, who has recently removed to the old Con- gregational church, in Yarmouth village. Among the recent business places here is the store, established about 1831 by Foster & Crocker, where Daniel B. Crocker now keeps. Mr. Crocker continued, after Foster retired, afterward taking Sylvester Baker as partner. Daniel Crocker died in 1857, and Mrs. Crocker and Mr. Baker continued until 1865, when the whole business was assumed by his son, Daniel B. Crocker, who still carries on the store. E. Dexter Payne, after clerk- ing ten years in the village, began his general store at one of the best sites here, in 1865, and continues a prosperous business.
The Barnstable Bank, located at Yarmouth Port, was chartered under the State laws in 1825. David Crocker, of Barnstable, was the first president, and Caleb Reed, first cashier. The original capital stock was one hundred thousand dollars. In 1864 it was changed to the First National Bank of Yarmouth, with a capital stock of $525,000, which in 1887 was reduced to the present amount, $350,000. President Crocker of the old bank, was succeeded, in 1843, by Isaiah Crowell. and he by Seth Crowell, in 1864. The latter was also president until the new organization, and thereafter until 1871, when David K. Akin succeeded him. In 1879 Joshua C. Howes was chosen and continues in the position. Timothy Reed succeeded Caleb Reed as cashier of the old bank, and he was succeeded by Amos Otis, who was also cash- ier when the new charter was obtained, serving in that capacity until his death, in 1875. William P. Davis, the present cashier, succeeded him.
There has, throughout the present century, been a small literary circle in town, giving force and direction to its intellectual growth. Dr. Calvin Tilden and others established the Union Library here in 1SOS. Other efforts in the same direction followed, and in 1866 a con- certed attempt was made, with such success that it promises to be one of the permanent institutions of the town. The first officers were Charles F. Swift, president; Rev. Joseph B. Clark, vice-president; and
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
among its early directors were Isaac Myrick, jr., William P. Davis, Dr. George Shove, Rev. Nathaniel Cogswell, Frederick Dunbar, James Knowles, Solomon Taylor, David G. Eldridge, Rev. John P. Perry, and Rev. V. Lincoln. Isaac Thacher, a prominent merchant of Bos- ton, contributed the sum of one thousand dollars, and Rev. Cogswell, Henry C. Thacher, and other prominent citizens gave money, books or building lots for the use of the society. In December, 1870, Na- than Matthews, also a native of the town, erected a handsome build- ing, costing about six thousand dollars, and he announced that the in- terest on five thousand dollars would be placed at the disposal of the trustees. The association was then reorganized to meet the new con- ditions which existed, and something like four thousand volumes, many of them books of permanent value, have been placed upon the library shelves. In January, 1883. Mr. Isaac Thacher left, by will, five thousand dollars more, which places the institution on a safe and per- manent basis. The library is governed by a self-perpetuating board of trustees, of which Rev. John W. Dodge is president. The late Amos Otis bequeathed a valuable collection of historical works, to- gether with a safe and money to provide for their preservation. The present officers are: President, Rev. John W. Dodge; vice-president, Hon. Charles F. Swift; secretary and treasurer, William P. Davis; trustees, the foregoing, and Thomas Matthews, Henry C. Thacher, Dr. Thomas B. Pulsifer, Rev. G. I. Ward, F. C. Swift, and John Simp- kins.
The Lyceum Hall Company, reorganized in 1881, was the continu- ance of one formed some thirty years before, its entire property being destroyed by fire in December, 1880. This company erected, on the same spot, a handsome and convenient hall, at an expense of seven thousand dollars. The present officers are; Thacher T. Hallet, R. H. Harris and D. B. Crocker, directors; William iJ. Davis and E. D. Payne, auditors.
A lodge of the Knights of Honor was instituted here February 3, 1879, as No. 1357. The present membership is fifty-four.
The Knights and Ladies of Honor, Lodge 298, has a membership of sixteen.
The New England Order of Protection has here a lodge-No. 43- with a membership of forty-four.
The ancient cemetery, " where the forefathers of the hamlet sleep," is still maintained, neatly enclosed, and kept in good repair by the Ancient Cemetery Association, which was organized in 1868. The officers at this time are: President, Charles F. Swift; secretary, David G. Eldridge; treasurer, Charles M. Bray; directors, the foregoing, and Watson Thacher, Isaac B. Gage, Samuel H. Thacher, Edwin Thacher, Kilburn M. Taylor, Benjamin R. Howes and Ebenezer R. Hamblin.
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TOWN OF VARMOUTH.
The Woodside Cemetery was opened, owing to the crowded condi- tion of the older one, in 1830, the first interment being in February of that year. It has been under various control, but is now incorporated, with the following officers: President, Edward B. Hallet; secretary and treasurer, Daniel B. Crocker; trustees, H. C. Thacher, D. B. Crocker, and John Simpkins. This cemetery is well enclosed, and has a sufficient fund to keep it in good condition.
South Yarmouth is a prosperous village, situated in the southeast quarter of the town, along Bass river, directly opposite West Dennis, with which it is connected by the Lower Bass river bridge. The ter- ritory was formerly an Indian reservation, and where the wigwams of this ill-fated people once stood are now seen the prettiest cottages and busiest marts. The last wigwam remembered was in the front yard of the residence of Daniel Wing, and the squaw later resided in a building nearer the shore. The present village has been reared within the memory of its oldest citizens, although it was a fishing hamlet long before. The Indians were in the occupancy of the lands in 1778, and the town that year ordered that their lands " be sold or hired out " to reimburse the town treasury for the expenses of the small-pox epidemic, which had greatly decreased their already small number.
The first salt works built in South Yarmouth were located between the county road and Bass river, nearly opposite the present site of Standislı Hall, upon land sold by John Kelley to Isaiah Crowell, Seth Kelley and Zeno Kelley, for that purpose in 1811. Subsequently, Abiel Akin, Russell Davis, Stephen Smith, Robert Wing. David K. Akin, George Wing, Daniel Wing, Lewis Crowell and Abraham Sher- man conducted the industry quite extensively and with a good degree of success. These works have been kept repaired and in use until the past few years; the long rows of covered vats, still visible in the west part of the village, as shown at page 143, are still venerable in their decay. Robert Wing was an extensive manufacturer, whose works are now extant at Lower Village, and owned by David Kelley. David Smith built his on Bass river above the bridge, and Edward Gifford's were still to the north. Prince Gifford erected works north west of the present main street, on land now belonging to his heirs. In fact this part of the town contained more feet of works than any other; and the residences of Stephen Wing and others along the southerly side of the street are built where stood these vast plants. The more recent manufacturers were Hatsel Crosby, Isaiah Crocker, Asa Covil, Barna- bas Sears, Loren Baker, Francis Wood and Howes Berry.
The estate of the Sears family was situated in the western part of the present village. The homestead in which the late Barnabas Sears lived and died, now occupied by his only daughter, is shown in the
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
accompanying illustration. Here were born his children, of whom further mention follows. In the hearts of his posterity, that love of homestead and birthplace which is ever the characteristic of the New Englander, has been well shown in these lines by Stephen Sears, whose home adjoins the old manse.
Our house, the dearest of its kind, We'll always call it home, I'm sure no better we shall find Wherever we may roam.
What if no paper on the walls, Nor carpet on the floor ? What if no brilliant lighted halls, No knocker on the door ?
We'd softest beds whereon to rest And clothing without spare, And then to make our lot more blest We had a mother's care.
Our father, faithful in his sphere, Did full supplies provide, Our constant mother, ever near, No matter what betide.
Our rooms were known as east and west, With kitchen in the rear, And closets, to each room annexed, Supplied with relics dear.
In silver vessels, not a few, Of cup and spoon and pan, With shining tankard bearing, too, Medallion of Queen Anne.
Then there was narrow porch, and long, With old brick oven too, Whence mother, armed with patience strong, Our early dinner drew.
The milkroom I can ne'er forget, With all its bright array; I see the polished pewter yet, As in my youthful day.
Three chambers too, with well-filled heds By skillful hands laid high, Where we could rest our childish heads- : No harmful danger nigh.
The chamber square, with bed of down, For visitor was used, . Lest we incur parental frown, To enter, we refused.
The quaint old clock of ancient frame, ; With solemn sounding bell, More than a century's hours hath told; And days and months as well.
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'SAVAS SVAVNMVRT AO MONTHSAM
SEARS HOMESTEAD
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Our home instruction, not severe, We quite well understood, Whether or not we willed to hear. 'Twas measured for our good.
Our father kind but firmly stood, Our mother knew no change, In just requirement for our good, Yet broad our playful range.
Both aided in our boyish sports. They seemed with us as one. Yet in our plays of varied sorts, For us they meant the fun.
We'll ne'er forget the leathered ball. By mother's hand prepared, Nor skates that aided in our fall, Our willing father shared.
The ontside objects still appear, As in our youth they stood, The wooded belt just on the rear In front the well worn road.
The farming lot on either hand, We worked as parent willed; The soil, not rich, but fertile sand, Quite easily was tilled.
The log-pile that in winter stood, In form of truncate cone, For leisure hour to change to wood, Should leisure chance to come.
The garden too, Our mother's care, By picket fence surround; At her command no pains we spare, To break and dress the ground.
The time-worn barn of ancient frame, With winter store of hay, The row of cattle known by name, And fowls with noisy lay.
The crib well rounded in the fall, With generous ears of corn, Appears, as childhood we recall, Like plenty's fertile horn.
The cherry trees with summer shade, Of strong and sturdy bough, With wavy foliage heavy laid, Like curls on Gorgan's brow.
Those days now mingled with the past, We cherish still, most dear; While faithful memory holds them fast, And youthful scenes bring near.
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
Of home, the once united head Has reached a holier clime: For loved ones, too, so long since dead, We wait the Father's time.
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I would restrain my truant mind, From wandering out of reach, For if no olive branch it find, 'Twill gloomy lessons teach.
Some small craft were built on the shores of this village, but tra- dition gives none of note. Various industries, established during the growth of the village, have been discontinued at the expiration of their charters, or pecuniary advantages. Oil-cloth works were estab- lished in 1848, in the old rope walk which had been operated by the Kelleys years before. A stock company composed of David K. Akin, Isaiah Crowell, David Kelley and others, operated the oil.cloth fac- tory three years. Stephen Wing was designer and stamp-cutter here, and went to Fall River with the works, where they were consumed by fire in 1853.
Elisha Jenkins in 1829, started a boot and shoe store and manufac- tory on the site now occupied by Elisha T. Baker, who purchased the store after Mr. Jenkins' death in 1881. Mr. Baker enlarged and re- modeled the building and, in 1886, purchased the stock of Elisha Parker, consolidating this branch of business into one store, which he continues. Mr. Parker started his store in the western part of the village in 1836. The growth of the village near the river induced him, in 1860, to move the building and business next to his residence, where he continued until the stock was transferred to Mr. Baker. When Mr. Parker started his store he also purchased the wool of the surrounding country, and had cloth and yarn made from it at East Falmouth; this he, assisted by his son, sold throughout the county.
Russel D. Farris, in 1839, established the manufacture of harness, which he continued successfully for eighteen years, when he sold his stock and trade to Barnabas Easton. In 1857, on the same site, he opened a hardware store and in 1874 added groceries, crockery and paper hangings, still continuing a large store where he commenced fifty years ago.
In 1854 John K. and Barnabas Sears built a steam planing mill on the north side of the street, where they resided. They added ma- chinery for grinding, all of which was a convenience to a large com- munity. This was continued until 1865, when the iniportation of dressed lumber, instead of the rough stock, rendered the business un- profitable, and four years later the building was removed to Hyannis.
In 1860, and for many years, a trade of at least fifty thousand dol- lars a year was sustained with New York city in grain and flour, by Hiram Loring, of West Dennis. The firm was H. Loring & Co., and
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TOWN OF YARMOUTH.
their store-house was on the Yarmouth bank of Bass river, where Loring Fuller & Co. continue the same business, supplying, by a line of schooners, coal, flour and grain to the public. Purrington & Small succeeded Loring & Wing in December, 1889, in a store on Bridge street. In that business Daniel Wing had been a partner with Mr. Loring for only a few months, but had been there many years with Stephen Wing, as Wing Brothers. The business was established there still earlier by Stephen Wing, who, witli Peleg P. Akin, had been engaged across the street.
David D. Kelley, also one of the principal merchants, opened his store, corner of Main and Bridge streets, September 24, 1867, and his term of twenty-two years entitles him to a place on the list of old merchants.
M. H. Crowell's carriage making and undertaking establishment, near the savings bank, on Bridge street; R. K. Farris' and D. S. Tay- lor's stores, and Zenas P. Howes', are also here. The manufacture of magnesia has also been discontinued for two years, Wing Brothers being the last engaged in it. F. Fearing established the trade here, in 1855. The decline in salt manufacture marked the bounds of the magnesia business here.
The social societies are numerous in South Yarmouth, the eldest of which is the Royal Arcanum, No. 250, Cape Cod Council, organized February 11, 1869, with twenty-nine charter members. Since its organization this society has paid eleven death benefits, aggregating $31,500, and sick benefits amounting to eight hundred dollars. The membership in 1889 was ninety-eight.
Howard Lodge, A. F. & A. M., has a fine hall over Standish Opera House. The charter empowering this Lodge to work, bears date December 14, 1870. The masters have been: Stephen Sears, 1870; William J. Nickerson, 1875; Bernard L. Baker, 1878; Selick H. Matthews, 1882: Elisha T. Baker, 1884; Stephen Sears, 1887; Dr. C. H. Call, in 1SS9. Zenas P. Howes has acted as secretary since 1874. Vic- tory Lodge of Good Templars was organized November 22, 1887. The . opera house referred to has a good stage, with suitable scenery. The rooms above accommodate the social societies. Stephen Sears and Sturgis Crowell purchased, in 1886, the building formerly owned by a stock company and used for a public hall; this they raised, repaired and added to, forming the present spacious building.
The South Yarmouth Social Library, of fifteen hundred volumes, was inaugurated a few years since by a fair, to which a liberal sup- port was given for this purpose. Then shares of five dollars each were taken, placing the library on a permanent foundation. Officers for 1889 were: Stephen Wing, president; Emily S. Gifford, secretary; and William R. Farris, treasurer.
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HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.
Some important financial schemes have been successfully sustained in this vicinity, some of the officers of the companies being residents of Dennis. One is the Bass River Marine Insurance Company. a mu- tual, organized in 1878, and was the outcome of a former society. The company did business nine years, paid several losses promptly, and were solvent to the extent of a million dollars. In 1887 the state laws required an incorporation not consistent to the minds of the shareholders, and the affairs of the company were closed, paying $525 to each of the twenty-five shares.
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