History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890, Part 88

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: New York : Blake
Number of Pages: 1292

USA > Massachusetts > Barnstable County > History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890 > Part 88

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

The children of Mr. and Mrs. Young are: Henrietta, wife of David M. Hodgdon, of Boston, and David L., of Orleans. They have lost two sons-Amos and Alfred. David L. was born in 1848, and since 1868 has been a merchant in Orleans, and. since 1889 has been town clerk. His wife, Ida M., is a daughter of John Brightman. Of their four children, two survive: Robert B. and Edna D.

Tel

Jon & Young

PRINT. E. BIERSTADT, N Y

CHAPTER XXIV.

TOWN OF WELLFLEET."

Formation and Description .- Pioneers .- Early Town Action .- The Revolution .- War of 1812 .- The Fisheries .- Population .- King's Highway .- The Eastham Line .- Town House .- Shipbuilding .- Town Records .- Life Saving Station and Light- house .- Early Business Interests .- Wind Mills .- Civil History .- Schools .- Churches -Cemeteries .- Wellfleet Village .- South Wellfleet .- Biographical Sketches.

T HE territory comprising this town was formerly included in Eastham, and until the period of its separation their political history is inseparably interwoven; but so far as possible the historical facts pertaining to the territory of the present town, from its first settlement, will find a place in this chapter. Prior to 1644 the territory of Wellfleet had been purchased of George, sachem, succes- sor to Aspinet, and was known as Pononakanet. Here, when the pur- chase of lands to and including Herring brook, with its meadows, had been made, the committee of whites asked the Indians whose lands were those down the Cape, to which the answer was, " Nobody's." " Then they are ours," was the reply, and Wellfleet was the last terri- tory paid for at this end of the county.

Billingsgate was an early name given to the present territory of Wellfleet, which unexplained cognomen still clings to some of its surroundings. At Billingsgate point, where the first lighthouse was subsequently erected, Captain Standish and the men from the May- flower landed on their way to the main land, and in many ways this territory has been made historic in the annals of the county.

The rapid settlement of this part of the ancient town induced its inhabitants to apply to the court in 1722 to be erected into a separate church parish, which was granted the following year. The import- ance of this parish, and the distance from the center where the town meetings were held, induced the inhabitants of the new parish to at- tempt the formation of a separate town. At the first meeting held for this purpose, March 9, 1761, they appointed Captain Elisha Doane agent " to get this precinct set of as a district." He, with Daniel Cole, Richard Atwood, Joseph Atkins, James Atwood, Jonathan Hiller, Eleazer Atwood, Zoeth Smith, Jeremiah Mayo and Samuel Smith,

* The manuscript to page 812 was revised by Simeon Atwood .- Ed.

788

HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

sent a petition to the proper officers of Eastham, who, after properly obtaining the wishes of the people, consented that " the precinct be set off as a district as far as Blackfish creek." This condition not be- ing satisfactory to the petitioners, on the first of November, 1762, another meeting was held in this precinct, at which another commit- tee of seven men-in part the same as at first-was appointed to assist Captain Doane, the agent, in petitioning the general court for an act of incorporation. Order of notice was served on the town of Eastham, and the matter was brought before the May session of the court, which resulted in an act, passed May 25, 1763, which formed the north precinct of Eastham, according to its known bounds, into a district, with all the privileges, powers and immunities of a town, ex- cept that its people must join for a time with Eastham in the election of a representative. The same act of incorporation designated August 4, 1763, for the election of its first officers. The warrant for the call- ing of this meeting was issued by John Freeman, of the old town, to Elisha Doane, of the new. Among other transactions of the meeting, Major Doane, Ephriam Covel and Samuel Smith, jr., were appointed a committee to settle all affairs between the two towns. Wellfleet was joined with Eastham in the election of a representative the few years that elapsed before the legal removal of this restriction. The dividing line of the former parish bounds, as enacted in the incorporation, is substantially the same now between the towns.

The north line, separating the new town from Truro, was "From a heap of stones on Bound brook island, which heap is called the westernmost bound; and from thence easterly by old marked trees, and some newly marked, in the old range, to the sea on the back side," which also remains, relatively, the same bounds.

Having the town of Wellfleet encompassed within its present limits, it may receive a more minute description. It is about eight miles in length from north and south, with an average of three in width, bounded south by Eastham and Wellfleet bay, east by the Atlantic ocean, north by Truro and west by Cape Cod bay; and it is ninety-five miles from Boston by land, sixty-five by water, with a distance of thirty-one miles from the court house of the county. The ocean coast is a high bluff, presenting no indentations for harbors; but there are three on the bay side, each presenting facilities for the commerce of the town. River harbor is in the north part of Wellfleet bay, Duck Creek harbor opens into the last named bay near the center of the town, and Blackfish creek, also a harbor is in the south part- all connected with the bay, which itself furnishes a secure anchorage for vessels of larger tonnage. The creeks are small, the largest being Herring brook in the north part. This, with another creek, forms two islands-Bound Brook island in the northwestern part, surrounded

789

TOWN OF WELLFLEET.

by the creek bearing its name, and Griffin's, surrounded by Herring brook. Two other islands of importance are Lieutenants, at the mouth of Blackfish creek, and Great island between Cape Cod and Wellfleet bays. Of the nine ponds within the limits of the town, six aggregate 225 acres: Herring pond, of 19; Higgins, of 25; Gull, 95; Long, 34; Great, 42; and Hopkins, 10 acres-all in the northeastern part of the town. The two first named only have outlets. The surface of the town is not only indented by ponds, but from Eastham a range of broken hills extends through into Truro, which show a Titanic war of the elements in ages past. The soil, once more fertile than now, is light and sandy and still susceptible of profitable cultivation. The oak and pine, which, generations ago, were of heavy growth, have been cut off, leaving the soil to the ravages of wind and water. The eastern portion of the town is now fringed with a small growth of pines and a few oaks. Large bodies of salt marsh are found along the western side of the town, around the harbors and coves. The town has two villages, which with their wharves and business places, will form a considerable portion of its later history.

As has been stated, Wellfleet in 1763, commenced its career as a corporate body, but to give the names of all the original settlers of its territory, is an impossibility, for the proprietors' records of old East- ham made no distinctive separations that are now recognizable in the divisions of lands, nor in their civil affairs. Among those here when the town was incorporated we find Sylvanus Snow, who was living in the south part and continued to pay rates in Eastham; we also find here: John Witherel, William Dyer, George Ward, Moses Hatch, Thomas Newcomb, George Crisp, John Rich, John Yates and John Doane. Prior to 1800 we find here: Ebenezer Freeman, Joseph Ward, Jonathan Young, Thomas Doane, Moses Wiley, Thomas Gross, John Atwood, John Treat, Elisha Eldridge, Samuel Brown, Benjamin Hamblen, James Cahoon, Benjamin Young, Daniel Mayo, Eleazer Hamblen, David Cole, Captain Winslow Lewis, Thomas Holbrook, Elisha Cobb, Timothy Nye, Dr. Samuel Nutting, Samuel Waterman, Jonathan Higgins, Major Elisha Doane, Samuel Smith, Jeremiah Mayo, Zoeth Smith, Jonathan Hiller, Eleazer Atwood, Joseph Atkins, Richard Atwood, Daniel Cole, Hezekiah Doane, Elisha Holbrook, Reuben Rich, Ephraim Covel, Eben Atwood, John Swett, James At- wood, Thomas Young, Joseph Pierce, Joseph Higgins, Naaman Hol- brook, William Chipman, Ezekiel Holbrook, William Knowles, Thomas Paine, Barnabas Freeman, Reuben Arey, Lemuel Newcomb, Jeremiah Bickford and others. Many of these last mentioned pioneers had, prior to the erection of the town, placed primitive headstones to the graves of their fathers, as the oldest two burial places of the town will attest.

790

HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

At the first meeting the people voted to lay out another road through the town, and for the building of the bridge over Duck creek Samuel Smith and Major Elisha Doane gave one-half the timber from wood on their lots, Rev. Mr. Lewis giving the other half. This road, now the main street of the village, began at the King's highway, a little to the eastward of the northeast arm of Duck creek; and in 1764 was extended northward of the old meeting house hill to Samuel Hatch's dwelling, and to high-water mark at a landing place. In 1765 an article was added to the town meeting warrant, asking for the suppression of the sale of strong drink; but the proposition was neg- atived, as the existing laws were considered sufficient. In 1770 rigid penalties were enforced to suppress the sale, especially when the Indians were the purchasers. The fishing privileges received atten- tion, and petitions were sent to court, asking for the protection of oysters during the summer months. The alewives of Herring brook were protected by the action of the people, and their votes were ap- proved by the court of sessions.

The stirring times of the revolution effected the young town, per- haps, more than sister towns, for the fisheries had become more im- portant; but it is recorded that these patriotic citizens sustained the action of the continental congress, and resolved not to purchase or use imported articles. John Greenough, the schoolmaster of the town, had procured two damaged chests of tea at Provincetown, one of which he claimed was for Colonel Willard Knowles, of Eastham, and, not- withstanding the schoolmaster's avowals of unintentional wrong, he was compelled to make a written confession of his error, and for sev- eral years was under censure for political malfeasance. The town in 1776 was blockaded, its fisheries crippled by the British privateers, its vessels idle, the town destitute of bread and other necessaries; still, when Rev. Isaiah Lewis read to his congregation, on the 25th of Au- gust, at the close of his sermon, the declaration of independence, there was not one dissenting opinion expressed. In 1783, after the treaty of peace, the Wellfleet people engaged again in their chosen avoca- tions on the waters, and became prosperous and wealthy.

The affairs of the town were promptly administered during the few subsequent years; a new bridge was built over Duck creek, the bounds were more definitely defined between this town and Truro, and school and church received substantial support. During the war of 1812 the town joined with others of the lower part of the Cape in asking to be excused from military duty, except at home in evading the attacks of crnisers. Improvement in town affairs attested the en- ergy of the people as soon as this war cloud was dispelled. The old roads, eighteen in number, were properly surveyed, and their bounds placed on record; in 1828 a bridge was built across Blackfish creek;

791

TOWN OF WELLFLEET.

in 1831 permission was given to B. Y. Atwood to build a wharf at . Black rock, and to Isaiah R. Baker to build a bridge from Griffins island to the main land. At this time, total abstinence from intoxi- cating drinks was the desire of the town, and the wholesome rule was observed by closing every place for their sale.

The main industry of the town from the earliest period had been fishing in its various branches. Whaling was largely carried on until its decline. In 1802 the town had only five vessels in the whaling business, which carried salt, so that if they failed in loading with whale, they could turn to cod fishing. These vessels were as large as one hundred tons, and many smaller ones engaged in mackerel and other fisheries. Mackerel fishing has been an important industry- the town for years past being the leading town in the business, which has declined to one-tenth its former magnitude in the catch and in the number of vessels engaged. The Wellfleet oyster was important in the market during the latter part of last century, when they were native to the bay; but soon after the revolutionary war a rapid decline in the quantity commenced, and after a term of years the industry ceased. The only approximation to the Wellfleet oyster for many years past, is obtained by planting from other localities the seed, which is permitted to grow and fatten for market. Thirty years ago forty vessels were engaged in supplying the Boston market with this bivalve from Wellfleet. In the year 1889 the cultivated oyster grounds covered about thirty acres,-the seed planted being forty five thou- sand bushels.

The blackfish-a species of whale-often visits Wellfleet bay. Rev. Levi Whitman has left the record that in 1793 he saw four hun- dred of these fish lying upon the shore of the bay at one time, and the full-grown ones would weigh five tons. A barrel of oil could be averaged from every fish. We have no further record of these schcols of fish until within the memory of the present residents; but they often appear in large numbers, the last being in 1885. That year a school of 1,500-old and young-entered Wellfleet bay and were driven into Blackfish creek, where they were killed. Hundreds of men in boats surrounded the school, and frightened them into the narrow and shallow waters of the creek, where they were left on the beach by the receding tide. They were sold for fourteen thousand dollars and the money was divided among those who assisted in the capture and killing.

The fishing business in its every branch that was so remunerative years ago, has steadily declined to its minimum during the very few last years, and from the former one hundred vessels owned here only about twenty, chiefly of the smaller class, at present belong to the town.

792

HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

In population the town from 1730 to the last census shows an in- crease prior to 1850 and then a gradual decline. In 1730 its popula- tion was 600; in 1764, 928; in 1775. 1.235; in 1800 it had decreased 28; increased to 1,386 in the census of 1806; was 1,402 in 1810; 1,472 in 1820; 2,046 in 1830; 2,377 in 1840: 2.411 in 1850; 2,322 in 1860; 2,135 in 1870; 1,875 in 1880; and 1,687 in 1885. This decline is accounted for in more than one way, but the Rev. Mr. Whitman's statement of 1793 is applicable in showing the trend of prosperity. He then wrote: "There have been within the memory of those now living, born in this town, small as it is, 32 pairs of twins and 2 triplets." Up to that time the proportion of births to deaths had been three to one, while the present records show almost the reverse. The summary of 18SS gives thirty-six deaths for the year. and only fifteen births.

The King's highway was the appellation given by the old citizens to the principal road through the town, and it is so designated by the present residents. It runs northerly into Truro, but is not as much used at the present day as the county road, laid out to Truro from the village of Wellfleet. The old road was used as the stage route from Eastham to Provincetown, and was the continuation of the county road of two centuries ago, as laid along the Cape in the early settle- ment of the town.

The perambulation of the lines of the town is the work of the selectmen every few years. The only serious difference in these lines that appears on the records of the town was in the line between this and Eastham in 1885. In going over the line that year it was found that the boundary assumed by the Eastham authorities was over five hundred feet to the north-they taking Indian creek mouth instead of the monumental stone of 1828, and from which point the line ex- tending westward would include the Billingsgate lighthouse within Eastham. The controversy arose from placing a fish weir within the disputed territory. Proper surveys were made and the boundary was established from the monument, which not only left a strip of the beach five hundred feet wide to this town, but also placed the light clearly within the limits of Wellfleet. The old line was established by act of the legislature and approved by the governor in May, 1887. Billingsgate lighthouse was on an island to the southward, where it was undermined by the waves in 1856, and was re-erected in 1857 on its present site.

The first and only town house was a plain building forty by fifty feet, erected soon after 1830 on the site of the present school house at the head of Duck creek. It was sold in 1869 to James Swett and by him to Simeon Atwood, who removed it to Mayo's beach, where it did service as a fish storage house, and may still be seen as an adjunct of the group of buildings now belonging to the Commercial Wharf

793

TOWN OF WELLFLEET.

Company. Near where the town house was erected, a poor house was built about the same time. This has since been modernized and a woman is given the use of it as a dwelling for her care of the premises, the town having no other use for it at present.

The building of vessels has not been a permanent industry at any time in the history of the town, but in the revival of the fishing in- terest about forty years ago a few were built by a master builder named Rogers. They were built at the Duck Creek harbor, on the north side, and were named: Simcon Baker, built in 1848; Benjamin Baker and Jesse Y. Baker, in 1849; George Shattuck, in 1850; Isaiah H. Horton and Richard R. Freeman, in 1851; Varnum H. Hill, in 1852; and the John S. Higgins, in 1853. These were vessels of from sixty to one hundred tons burden, the material for their construction being im- ported. In 1863 a schooner was beached on Great island, and from the wreck Giles Hopkins built the Louic A. Swett. The Clara D. Swett was subsequently built by Theodore Brown and Nathaniel Snow.

The town has ever been careful of its records, which are models of neatness and are kept safe from fire. In 1860 the vote was made to copy in proper books the old records of births, deaths and mar- riages; in 1869 voted to take a large amount in railroad stocks; in 1856 to build a new foot bridge across Duck creek; and every year were votes to gravel and grade the roads. Another proof of the de- sire to build up the town was in the vote of 1887 to give four hundred dollars annually for five years to a shoe manufactory, be- sides exemption from taxation. One was started in a building erected by enterprising citizens, near the present depot, and was continued a few months. Cummings & Howes, of Orleans, carried on the manufacture of clothing there six months, when a Boston firm in the fall of 1889 commenced a pants manufactory.

The description given of the east coast of the town would im- ply that it is a dread to navigators. About midway of the stretch of coast is a government life saving station effectually equipped and manned-the Cahoon Hollow station, under the care of Captain Daniel Cole. The government also, about 1839, erected a lighthouse at the head of Wellfleet bay, known as Mayo's Beach light. A few years ago the present separate tower was erected a few rods northward of the first, which was a portion of the residence. Wil- liam N. Atwood, a maimed soldier, was the keeper for a number of years prior to his death, and his widow still holds the position.

The present wharf business will appear in the village history, but the apparent security of the harbor at the mouth of Herring river led to the early establishment of the fishing business there, which was long ago discontinued. Prior to 1840 the River Wharf Company erected a wharf, packing houses and a fitting-out store, which in 1845

₺

794

HISTORY OF BARNSTABLE COUNTY.

was purchased by George Baker, Thomas Hopkins, David Baker,. Nehemiah Baker, Naphtali Rich, Elisha P. Atwood, N. Rich, jr., James Moore, Hawes Atwood and Solomon Harding, as a company,. who continued over ten years in the business. The partners com- menced selling their shares, and after a few years the business was discontinued. A store, on Bound Brook island, established in 1835 by Joel Atwood, was subsequently purchased by the River Wharf Company, when they engaged in business and was kept by them several years as a branch store. These, with a store established last century,. constitute the old stores of the west part of the town before the present village of Wellfleet had assumed to be its principal business center .. The store referred to was started by Mary Mayo, in the present resi- dence of Laura A. Taylor, some time in the last half of the last century. The house was built in 1766, was enlarged in 1800 while the lady was in trade, and she continued until her death, about 1839. This house, erected by the Mayos, is a model of the honesty and in- dustry of the ancestors of the present generation, for the bricks of the chimney and the plastering, made from materials on the premises, are as good as they were 124 years ago.

In the eastern and central portion of the town were early stores. Soon after 1800 Aunt Druzilla Laha had one in the woods, northwest of Pierce's hollow, near the site of the old wind mill. Benjamin Wetherell ran one on the stage road east of Duck creek, very early in the century. As to the store that was said to have been kept on Great island nearly one hundred years ago, we can hardly credit the tradition; but the dry goods of that day may have been a necessary contingent with the whalers and fishers of that part.

The old tavern and store called the Pierce stand, still standing in Pierce hollow, is the most ancient. This house was built about 1712. on the King's highway, by Isaac Pierce, and was soon after opened as a house of entertainment. Many of the oldest residents of the present day remember when Joshua Y. Pierce still continued the old tavern-closing about fifty years ago. His sign, "Entertainment by J. Y. Pierce," is still one of the relics of the old mansion. At that time-the latter part of the last century-this hollow along the main highway was the most conspicuous part of the town. The probate court was often held in the southwest room of the old mansion, and after the meeting house was erected at Duck creek this hollow was the important center. About 1835 the village of Wellfleet com- menced, and business centered there.

The wind mills of the town, although among things of the past, were important to the people of that day. The one at Pamet point was long ago demolished. The last miller was Thomas Higgins, subsequent to 1830. Samuel Chipman had another east of the present

795

TOWN OF WELLFLEET.

village, near the King's highway, and the last of its existence was about 1839, when its ancient timbers were perverted to other uses. The latest-built mill is now the octagonal tower of the so-called Morn- ing Glory-a summer residence near the bay, owned by Mrs. Hiller. Samuel Ryder owned the original mill that was erected on Mill hill in 1765, which, in 1838, was torn down to make room for a better one ;. and the latter, prior to 1870, was moved and converted into the resi- dence mentioned.

CIVIL HISTORY .-- There was not the opportunity for full civil priv- ileges to the people of this part of the old town until its separation, when its own distinctive officers could be chosen-when it could, by its own franchises, select officers who would co-operate in the advance- ment of this particular territory, an evidence of which is shown by the action of the first town meeting held August 4, 1763. Not only were the roads and schools at once advanced in number and useful- ness; but application was successfully made for the appointment of a justice of the peace, and the Indian affairs were better managed. The fisheries that had been heretofore carelessly neglected by the old town, were placed under restrictions that not only would give better results to the people, but prevent the wasteful slaughter of the fish.

In 1774, at a town meeting called in response to the resolves and proceedings of an important revolutionary meeting in Boston, Wins- low Lewis, Hezekiah Doane, Elisha Cobb, Joseph Higgins, Naaman Holbrook, Samuel Smith and Ezekiel Holbrook were chosen to con- sider the feelings of the town and report at a future meeting. Bold and patriotic resolves were made, which were endorsed by the vote of the town and a copy ordered sent to Boston. Another town meet- ing, December 19th of that year, was called to receive the report of the committee sent to Barnstable to the county congress, and hearty co-operation in all its resolves was voted by the people. Not every one voted to sustain the continental congress at the sacrifice of every blessing, but the feeling was nearly unanimous, and the small min- ority could not raise an effective opposition to the patriotic impulse of the majority. The town voted that the officers, holding military commissions under the crown, resign, to which they complied.

Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.

History of Barnstable County, Massachusetts, 1620-1890, Part 88

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed Publication date: 1890 Publisher: New York : Blake Number of Pages: 1292

Author: Deyo, Simeon L., ed
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: New York : Blake
Number of Pages: 1292