History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. I, Part 119

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton), ed. n 85042884-1
Publication date: 1888
Publisher: Philadelphia : J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1538

USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. I > Part 119

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About one-half mile south of Cliftondale, on the old traveled road which bore to the east of Lincoln Avenue as now traveled, was a famous farm of olden time, being situated partly in Sangus (then Lynn) and partly in Chelsea. The road passed between the barn and farm-house, which stood at the foot of the hill then known as Boynton's Hill. This was the hardest hill between Salem and Boston, and was mnch dreaded by the drivers of heavy teams. Mr. Boynton was often called upon for an extra lift, and Landlord Newhall often sent extra horses or oxen to help teams which were to stop at his tavern.

Mr. Boynton lived to an advanced age, and the farm passed to his son, Ellis Boynton. The farm was soon sold to Eben F. Draper and John Edmunds,

who owned it for a few years and sold to Dr. Smith, of Boston. A large part of this farm was utilized by the Franklin Trotting Park some years ago, and is still used somewhat for horse-racing.

Leaving Lincoln Avenue at Cliftondale, and taking Essex Street, a short distance brings us to a fine res- idence on the right, facing the depot, now owned (in 1887) by Pliny Nickerson. This dwelling-house has not always presented the beautiful appearance of to-day, for it has met with many changes since its first con- struction, in 1807, by Jacob Eustis, of Boston, a brother of Governor Eustis. The land in front of the house constituted his farm. Mr. Eustis was a man of untiring industry, especially scrutinizing all town expenses, and every irregularity received his scathing rebuke.

About 1830 he sold to James Dennison. It then passed to W. Turpin, and soon to Seth Heaton, who occupied it until 1853. Mr. Heaton sold to Daniel P. Wise and others, who then applied the name of Cliftondale to this section of the town, and began a scheme of improvement. Subsequently John T. Paine, Esq., of Melrose, bought a portion of the land, with the Eustis house. The location of the old road, which ran nearer the house and inside of the noble trees now standing, he caused to be re- located outside of the trees, where we find it to-day. Substantial stone walls were built around the place, and the house itself remodeled.

Continuing our way beyond Mr. Nickerson's, the road winding to the north, we pass soon on our right a tract of land (now being rapidly built over with houses) that was known seventy-five years ago as the " Breeden Place " among the old farm settle- ments of the town. Crossing the railroad, are fine tillage fields on the left. A large part of this farm was reclaimed from an extensive swamp by Timothy H. Brown, who settled here about 1830 and died in 1851. This was known years ago by the name of the " Allen Place," from its owner, Lemuel Allen, who married the daughter of Parson Roby. Mr. George N. Miller is the present owner, and may be reckoned one of our prosperous farmers.

Still going westerly a short distance to the corner of Felton Street, we come to an old house now owned and occupied by Mr. Walter V. Hawkes. This was the home and farm of Colonel Abner Cheever, of Revolutionary memory. The farm was one of the best of that early day. On the death of the colonel, about 1820, it passed into the hands of his son, Major Henry Cheever, who occupied it till his death in 1858.

About sixty rods to the north we come to the once famous "Dr. Cheever Place," for many years con- sidered the most elegant residence in Saugus. A broad high two-story verandah supporting the roof on massive columns gave it at once an elegant and south- ern air. It was built about 1808. Noble shade-trees surrounded the house, the grounds were kept neat and

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trim, ponds were formed in the rear of the house for fish, boats and bathing. He built a fine avenue, bordered with shade-trees, leading direct from his residence to the turnpike, protected by gates at either end. Dr. Cheever was a surgeon in the Continental army. In politics a Federalist, in religion a Unita- rian, and for many years attended public worship with that society at Lynn.

He died about 1842, leaving two children,-Dr. Charles Cheever, of Portsmouth, N. H., and Eliza S. Cheever, both now deceased. The doctor owned about two hundred acres of land, forty acres being tillage.

About forty rods west of the Dr. Cheever place is an old house, now somewhat modernized, and owned by Mr. William H. Penny. It was formerly the house of Ezra Brown, and in the Revolution days was the abode of his father. More recently the farm was owned by Stephen Hall, who lived there many years. His daughter is the wife of Mr. William H. Penny.

About one hundred rods north of Mr. Penny's house, on the Newburyport turnpike, is the farm now owned by the town of Saugus, and occupied for its almshouse. This was one of the farms of the olden time. It was formerly known as the "Tudor Place." The old road from Sweetzer's Corner (now Cliftondale) to South Reading passed through this farm for about sixty rods south of the present house, substantially where the turnpike was afterwards built and is now traveled. Before the present house was built there was a venerable old farm-house upon the same spot. That old farm-house was owned by William Tudor, Esq., known as Judge Tudor. He inherited this place from his father, John Undor. The late Freder- ick Tudor, Esq., of Nahant, was the son of William Tudor, Esq. The improvements made by William Tudor, Esq., upon this place began about the year 1800. The old house was not torn down entirely, but was made the nucleus of the new house by doubling the size of the old house and modernizing the whole structure. Judge Tudor no doubt intended to make it his permanent family residence. Its fine situation, its rich fields around the dwelling, its picturesque wooded hills, all afforded him the opportunity to dis- play his taste. An artificial pond was formed south- westerly of the house, and into it was conducted the water from Long Pood by an artificial canal which he excavated, partly through solid ledge, at great ex. pense. This canal can now be seen, and through it is now running a portion of the waters of Long Pond. The magnitude of this work and its speedy comple- tion testify to the energy of Mr. Tudor.

In 1807 the house was vacated by the Tudor family, and for years was occupied by different families. In 1818 it was leased to Robert Eames, who lived there until 1822, when it was purchased of Henry 1. Tudor by the town of Saugus for a poor farm.

On Central Street, near the junction of Denver Street, on what was then the traveled road to Reading, were two very old farms, one on the south side of the

old road, owned by Josiah Rhodes, who died about 1794. This dwelling, which was a small one-story house, stood upon the elevated ground east of the house now standing and recently occupied by the late Salmon Snow. Mr. Rhodes' barn was upon the op- posite side of the old road. The widow of Josiah Rhodes soon after her husband's death married Richard Shute, who came from Malden. He combined farm- ing, mercantile business and school-teaching. He bought the old school-house, attached it to the farm- house as an ell and made of it a store. These build- ings were all burnt one pleasant autumn afternoon, about 1820, with all their contents. Mr. Shute was an active man, and being lame, rode a great deal on horseback, even sowing his grain from the back of his bay mare. He was also tax collector for Lynn for some three years. After his death the farm passed into the possession of Benjamin Swain, and by him was sold to Salmon Snow, about 1833.

The second farm above referred to was on the northerly side of the Reading road and the westerly side of the road leading to the meeting-house. This farm was owned about eighty years ago by Deacon Asa Rhodes.

More recently it was owned by the late Deacon James Roots. The Deacon Asa Rhodes house was a venerable relic of the olden time, two stories high, with a chimney in the centre occupying a large part of the house. A little east of the house stood his small shoemaker's shop, where the deacon could al- ways be found at his craft. The deacon was born in the old house, March 1749, and lived there all his days, dying at the age of ninety-three years. Though a farmer, yet his principal business was shoemaking. He worked his own stock and made shoes for the Marblehead market. He would repair to Marble- head with his saddle-bags, distribute their contents among his customers, take other orders and return home. His way of traveling was sometimes on horseback, sometimes on foot with saddle-bags on his shoulder, and sometimes, with leather-apron on, he would wheel a barrow. The old house was torn down soon after his death, in 1842. Deacon James Roots, who married a daughter of Deacon Rhodes, owned and lived on the place until his death.

About eighty rods eastward of the Deacon Rhodes place was what was known as the Master Hitchings place. This place is now our cemetery. Thomas Hitchings moved from Lynn to the West Parish, about 1802, so as to lead the singing in the parish church, and also to teach the singing-school; hence he was called " Master Hitchings." He lived in the old homestead and reared a large family. This old house is still standing, although removed many rods towards East Saugus, on land known as the Bowler Field.

In the westerly part of the town, now called Oak- landvale, a little over a mile from the Town Hall, on the road to Wakefield, were a number of old farms

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deserving some mention. Just before the road de- scends to the meadow and crosses the brook the loca- tion of the old Reading way can be seen leading off to the left or south, and making a wide sweep over the meadow; the present new location across the brook was laid out in 1818. Just after crossing the meadow an old house is still seen to the north, and some rods back from the road. This was in Revolu- tionary days occupied by Samuel Boardman.

Just here a road branches off to the left, leading to Melrose. A few rods on this road brings us to a ven- erable dwelling-house on the right, a good specimen of the old time house; it is fully two hundred years old. During the American Revolution it was occu- pied by Aaron Boardman, and afterwards it became his son's, Abijah Boardman's, who lived and died there. When the county of Suffolk extended up as far as this farm, the line dividing the counties passed through this house, and the court had to decide where Mr. Boardman should pay his poll-tax. Chelsea finally collected it, as his sleeping-room was in that town.

Coming back to the Reading or Wakefield road, and continuing westerly, we come to some excellent inter- vale, where were several very old farms. In the Revolutionary days there were four farm-houses here, one of which only is now standing. This is the house on the south side of the road, the homestead of the late Joseph Cheever, and more recently occupied by his son, Cyrus Cheever. It was formerly Ivory Boardman's house. Another of the old houses also stood on the south side of the road, before reaching the Joseph Cheever homestead. This was built about 1775 by John Dampney, formerly of Salem, grand- father of the late Joseph Dampney, Esq., of Lynn.

Another of the old houses stood on the north side of the road and west of the Joseph Cheever house. It was occupied by Daniel Floyd.

But another of these houses, and the most remark- able, was the Deacon Pratt house. It stood about one hundred rods east of the old road, upon a level plot of ground. The remains of the old fruit-trees can yet be seen.

Deacon Pratt was noted for his orderly habits, his place being always in the best of shape. He was a deacon in the West Parish Church, and a highly ex- emplary man.

Let us now retrace our steps as far as the Oakland- vale School-house. Directly opposite this school- house is a road leading northerly. We take this road, and about forty rods brings us to a modern two-story dwelling, built by Joseph Measury, Esq., in 1847. Subsequently he sold it to G. W. Phillips, Esq., who recently died there, when it was sold to the present owner, Mr. Ziegler.

A few rods beyond this house brings us to a gate on the left ; through this gate, about twenty rods, stands a venerable farm-house, now owned by Mr. Bostwick. This was one of the ancient farm-sites of the West

Parish of Lynn. This farm then included all the land extending to the Wakefield road.

In 1775 it was owned by Elkanah Hawkes, who oc- cupied it many years. He combined by occupation the blacksmith and farmer. His shop stood near the gate before-mentioned, wherein was executed what smith-work the neighborhood needed. When ont gunning in the woods his hand was mutilated by an accidental discharge of his gun, rendering amputa- tion necessary. With the aid of his son, he con- tinued his business several years. He had a daugh- ter, Love Hawkes, who for several years taught school in the neighborhood.

During the beginning of the present century the farm came into the possession of Nathan Hawkes, son of Nathan of the West Parish, who owned it till its sale to Mr. Saunders and Measury, in 1846. After the sale he moved to the old house farther east, near where the old road crosses the brook. He died here in 1862, at the advanced age of eighty-seven years. This old farm-house, where he died, was owned by Daniel Hitching, early in this century, aud after- wards was owned by Ira Draper, Esq., until about 1840. It still stands and is occupied by Hannah Hawkes.

About one hundred rods eastward of this last farm, in a large field, stands an old farm-house, until very recently owned and occupied by the late Lott Edmunds. This farm, in the period of the Revolu- tiou, was called the " Hitchings Place." Its site is rather low, and all these fields and intervales, in the period of the old "Iron- Works," must have been cov- ered with water to the depth of three feet and more.

To the northwest of these last farms, and contig- uons thereto, is that tract of rough, wild woodland, long and still known as the "Six Hundred Acres." This was the lot of public land distributed among the settlers about 1706.

CHAPTER XXVII.

SAUGUS-(Continued).

RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES.

PARISH CHURCH : Organization-Edward Cheever-Pews in Church-Parson Roby-His Salary-His Death and Epitaph-William Frothingham- Other Pastors -- Secession of the Calvinistic Wing-New Church Edifice- Organization of Calvinistic Members-First Pastors-First Church Edifice -New Church. FIRST METHODIST CHURCH : Organization-Rock School- House-Pioneers-Pastors-First Church-Sunday-school -- New Church. CLIFTONDALE METHODIST CHURCH : Formation, etc. METHODIST CHURCH IN CENTRE. ST. JOHN'S EPISCOPAL MISSION. CONGREGATIONAL SO- CIETY IN CLIFTONDALE.

OLD PARISH CHURCH .- The first parish church in Saugus, known as the Third Church of Lynn, or the Church of the West Parish, dates its organization in I the year 1738. Previous to that time the people in

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the west part of Lynn attended meeting at the parish church on Lynn Common.

The first step was the union of all the principal men to build a meeting-house. The union was named the " Proprietors of the Meeting-House." In 1736 the work was commenced, and the best of oak timber was eut for the frame. The work made considerable progress during the year, although it was not proba- bły finished till 1737. The finishing only extended so far as to build a pulpit and cover the floor with plain seats, one side called the "men's scats," and the other the " women's seats." At this state of affairs the parish records commence. The first book of rec- ords was a present to the parish from Thos. Cheever. It is a remarkable vellum-covered book, and served the parish ninety years. On the first page of the book is written : "This book is a gift to the Society of Proprietors of the new meeting-house, in the west- erly end of the town of Lynn, by Thomas Cheever."

On the 5th of March, 1738, a warrant was issued by Ebenezer Burrill, Esq., of Lynn, addressed to Joshua Haven, and requiring him to call the first meeting of the Third Parish of Lynn for organization and the choice of officers.

(The Second Parish had previously been organized in that part of Lynn now called Lynnfield).

The meeting was held by adjournment at the meet- ing-house, the 28th day of March, 1738, and William Taylor was chosen parish clerk, and William Taylor, Jonathan Wait and Josiah Rhodes parish committee. After this organization the parish at once proceeded to provide their first preacher. Edward Cheever, a resident in the parish, an educated man and about entering the ministry, was invited to preach for three months.

It appears that the people were pleased with the preaching of Edward Cheever, and at a meeting held June 18, 1738, they voted to settle him as their minis- ter. For some reason which does not appear, Mr. Cheever was not at once settled. In the following October the parish voted to send letters for ordination, although it does not appear that he was ordained till October, 1739. What salary he was to have does not appear from the records, although a certain gift of the General Court was appropriated to assist the settle- ment, and that forty members of the parish were each to carry to the house of Edward Cheever a half-cord of wood each year, and not fail. At the same time with this settlement several things came up for the decision of the parish. One was to accept the legacy from Theophilus Burrill of one hundred pounds (three hundred dollars, silver) "to be expended in furniture and vessels for the Lord's Table." It was voted to accept and appropriate. Another was to as- sign a lot of land for "horse-stables," each one to build his own stable. So about ten stables were built, probably in front of the burying-ground.

We cannot sufficiently admire the zeal of our an- cestors-then few in number and widely scattered-to

undertake a work of such magnitude as the building of a church. It was forty-four feet long by thirty- six wide, with about twenty-feet posts. It had upper and lower windows all round, of common-sized glass. On its front, or south side, was the front door, with a large porch or vestibule, which was entered by three doors. It had, besides, a door on each end opening into the church. No doubt the model of this was found in the "Old Tunnel," so-called, on Lynn Com- mon. Let us go into the church. The pulpit is upon the north side of the house, in the centre, raised high, with a seat in front for the deacons. A gallery runs around the front and two ends, the front gallery seats being appropriated to the singers. The floor of the church is seated with plain plank seats, divided into two sections.

What a pattern of plain Puritan simplicity must this church have presented, with its " men's seats " on one side and its "women's seats" on the other ; and then the worshippers with their antique dresses !

The situation of this church was very pleasant. It was in the centre of the town, on a small elevation of land upon the west side of the road leading north to the " Old Iron Works," on a part of the "Taylor Farm," so-called, on the triangular green where now (1887) stands the flag staff. The road running westerly, now called Main Street, was not then made. For some years the people living on the old road to South Reading probably passed through the fields, opening bars, but afterwards a highway was built. This church edifice continued to stand on the same spot, although undergoing some alterations, until the year 1858, when it was moved about three rods north of its old site, and is now occupied for a grocery-store by Mr. Whitehead, with dwelling above. The elevated knoll has been graded down and is now an open square.

Let us now return to the old church in 1740. An- other question was then brought up which proved in the sequel an encroachment on the "free-seat " plan. They voted to build a pew for the minister at the east end of the pulpit. Poor, blind mortals! They should have known enough of human nature to have taught them that it never would he endured to have the minister's family sit above the people. So, very soon after, it was resolved that the new church should have pews, in part at least. A committee was chosen to make a plan for the pews. At a meeting held on the 8th of December, 1740, the committee on pews made the following report in substance : " We are of opinion, there being room enough to erect twenty- nine pews in said meeting-house, nineteen wall pews and ten pews on the floor. All persons that make choice of a wall pew, they maintaining the glass against their own pews. The proprietors of the house to have the choice of pews. That each person having a pew shall pay for crection of his own pew. That the pews shall be taxed forty shillings per week as apportioned."

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The foregoing report was accepted and a larger committee of seven of the best men was chosen to superintend the whole matter, and after the pews were built, to tax them.

This committee, finding that more pews were needed, made a plan to increase the number to thirty- four, by making five more. Their report read thus : "By taking two seats of the men's, and two hinder- most seats of the women's, with five feet of the women's fore seat and second seat, will make room for five pews more, making thirty-four in all."

The report was accepted.

From what can be gathered, it appears that the Third Parish (now Saugus) was set off from the First Parish (Old Tunnel) on condition that the parish tax should be assessed and collected by the First Parish till the General Court should incorporate the West Parish. That during said time, the West or Third Parish might have separate preaching, and draw from the treasurer of the First Parish their ratable propor- tion of the money raised. Their proportion was thirty-five parts of every one hundred and eighty. It is thus seen that Saugus was no small part of Lynn, as to taxation at that day. The sum refunded, with forty shillings per week tax on pews, was deemed suf- ficient to meet the cash expenses of the new parish. But the young parish found very soon the same diffi- culties that religious societies have always found -- the trouble of raising money. The people were remiss in paying the weekly assessments upon the pews, and also were negligent in supplying the yearly half-cord of wood each. Various votes were passed threatening to delinquents.

On March 6, 1745, the parish chose a committee to build the five additional pews on the lower floor, and twenty pews in the gallery, ten in the front gallery and five in each end gallery. They were also empowered to let, tax and sell, as they might judge best.

It was voted that every pew occupier should sup- ply a half-cord of wood yearly, and more or less as the tax might be.

The course adopted by the West Parish about the construction of pews was an improvement on the "Old Tunnel " method. In that house every one made his pew to his own taste, but here the society built the pews uniformly and the pew-owner paid the cost.

In February, 1747, the parish again petitioned the General Conrt for an act of incorporation.

The First Parish Church at Lynn stoutly opposed all these petitions for separation ; but it was finally obtained.

In February, 1749, Ebenezer Burrill issued a war- rant for organization under the charter. The meeting was held the 10th inst., and Jonathan Hawkes was chosen as first parish clerk under the charter. (Rev. Edw. Cheever was dismissed December, 1748.)

At this meeting it was voted that the parish con- cur with the church in inviting Mr. Joseph Roby to

become their minister. In this vote of concurrence the parish voted all the particulars as to the pay- ment of Mr. Roby. We here give the vote verbatim :

"Voted for the annual support of Mr. Roby so long as he shall carry en the work of the ministry in said parish, the improvement of a suita- ble house and barn. Pasturing and sufficient winter meat for twe cows and ene horse, and to put the hay, or winter meat inte the barn-the improvement of two acres of land snitable to plant, and to be kept well fenced, and sixty pounds in lawful silver money at six shillings aud eight pence per onuce, and also the loose contribution."

On March 1, 1749, a committee was chosen " to in- form Mr. Joseph Roby that he was chosen to settle in the ministry by the church and parish." Soon after this vote the subject of giving the meeting- house to the parish was discussed by the proprietors, and a meeting was held for that purpose, wherein it was voted that said "meeting-house, with all privi- leges and appurtenances, be given to the Third Parish, excepting pew No. 23, and the place where it stands; provided said parish wrong no person of their expense in building the pews in said house."

For reasons which do not appear, Mr. Roby was not settled on the foregoing vote, and at a meeting held April 21, 1750, a committee was chosen to supply the pulpit with " transient preaching." Also to see how the parish conld purchase a house and land suitable for a parsonage.

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History of Essex County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. I, Part 119

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton), ed. n 85042884-1 Publication date: 1888 Publisher: Philadelphia : J. W. Lewis & Co. Number of Pages: 1538

Author: Hurd, D. Hamilton (Duane Hamilton), ed. n 85042884-1
Publication date: 1888
Publisher: Philadelphia : J. W. Lewis & Co.
Number of Pages: 1538