USA > Massachusetts > Franklin County > Northfield > History of the town of Northfield, Massachusetts : for 150 years, with an account of the prior occupation of the territory by the Squakheags : and with family genealogies > Part 2
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A grist-mill was put in below the saw-mill, about 1782, by Aaron Whitney. This was rebuilt by John Barrett, Esq., who sold it August 9, 1802, for $500, to Ezekiel Webster.
As early as 1775, Stephen Belding set up a clothier's shop, with carding and fulling machinery, between the grist and saw-mills, which was sold with the other privileges to Aaron Whitney, and eventually became the property of Simeon Boyden. In 1804 Boyden sold out to Josiah Fisher, and removed to Orange, where he built, that year, the first carding-mill. Fisher sold, June 15, 1814, to Capt. James White.
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Introduction.
Up stream, Gurdon Strobridge had grist and saw mills - now owned by George Bacon ; and still above was a pail factory, after- wards a saw-mill, owned by Murdock and Johnson, now John Barrett. A half mile above, Hezekiah Mattoon built a saw-mill - now a batting manufactory.
Miller's Brook -south of the original town plot - has two prin- cipal heads, one between Stratton mountain and the Bald hills, the other in the gulf east of Brush mountain. It drains the Dry swamp, and enters the Connecticut towards the lower end of Great meadow. The name Miller's brook, as applied to this stream, is found in the. records as early as 1686, showing the falsity of the tradition that it was called after Benjamin Miller, who built a house on its banks in 1732. It may have been named for William Miller, who was a prominent inhabitant in the First and Second Settlements. In the Indian deed this brook is called Squenatock and Quanatock ; and it was the south boundary of the land sold to the whites by Massemet. The term Squenatock appears to mean, the pouring-out place, and was applied by the natives to the falls, where the water pours over and down the rocks. Remove the dam, and the Indian word can be seen, just as the red man saw it centuries ago.
The privilege at the falls on this brook, south of the town street, was granted May 18, 1685, "to W= Clarke Jun., John Woodward, Richard Lyman and any other that shall join them, with liberty to · build a saw-mill ; and we have granted them the stream to improve their mill, and so much land as they need to pond on, and to improve their mill, and 20 acres of land near the mill for pasturing or any other use what they see meet and liberty of the Commons for timber what they need : this 20 acres is granted to them and their heirs forever, to be taken up where the partners shall judge most convenient." The saw-mill appears to have been built the next year.
In the Third Settlement, mills were erected here by Ensign Zech- ariah Field about 1730, and held by his heirs for many years. But the place is better known as the Deacon Janes's grist-mill. All the early mills stood on the north bank. A wagon-shop now stands on the south bank.
Before 1800, a mill for expressing castor and linseed oils was built on this stream, by Zechariah Field (son of Paul), just east of the home.lots. A little way below, a trip-hammer and scythe factory was afterwards put in by Richard Watriss. A little way above, in 1815, Jabez Parsons and Jabez Whiting built in partnership, a bark- mill, which was afterwards occupied by A. C. Parsons. Farther up, at the foot of the mountain, Alonzo Stratton had a saw-mill.
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History of Northfield.
Saw-mill Brook rises on the west side of Brush mountain, and comes down by "the roaring falls" (for which the Indian name would be nauyaug), north of Beers's mountain, and after coursing the east and north sides of Beers's plain, unites with Miller's brook below the site of Janes's mill.
A saw-mill was built, a little way up this stream, by Elias Bascom ; who added a clothing-mill ; afterwards operated by Josiah Fisher and Theodore Holton ; it is now a grist and saw-mill, owned by Samuel Slate. '
Merriman's Brook rises from the spring southwesterly of Beers's hill, near which Capt. Samuel Merriman first built, and enters the Connecticut near the Gill ferry. Though short it is permanent, and has sufficient volume to supply power for a sash and blind manufactory.
Pine-meadow Brook rises on the western declivity of South moun -. tain, and entering the meadow through Crooked hollow, courses along near the hill to the lower end, where it flows into the Connecticut.
Four-mile Brook rises to the west of Old Crag. It is often referred to in the early records as the Little-stony brook. Its general course is south-west. The south bound of the town, as established by Dwight's survey in 1720, was " a line running E. 7º 30' N. from the mouth of Four-mile brook," which would leave the main body of the stream mostly within Northfield bounds.
" Oct. 19, 1742, the town granted to Jona. Janes, Eleazer Patterson, Charles Doolittle and Paul Field the falls on Four-mile brook for building a saw-mill, with a log yard and pond place not infringing on any prior grant, and during their maintaining a good saw-mill on said falls - provided they build the mill within twelve months from this . date, otherwise it reverts to the town again." In 1820 Elihu Stratton built a grist-mill on this privilege. It is now owned by Aaron Morgan. Rufus Stratton put in a saw-mill two miles further up the stream.
Pembroke-grant Brook enters the Connecticut about half a mile below the mouth of Four-mile brook, and near the present south line of the town.
The brooks on the west side of the Connecticut are :
Broad Brook, the original north boundary of the Indian territory, and of the township as laid out by William Clarke in 1672. ' The Indian name of this stream was Wanasquatok, which signifies, the end, or the extremity - indicating that the chieftain Nawelet claimed no and further north.
" Bascom's mill and clothier's shop, on this site, were built as early as 1770.
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Introduction.
Fock's Brook empties into the Connecticut one-fourth of a mile above Wright's island, now known as Elmer's island.
Cold Brook - sometimes called Upper-salmon brook-rises in a spring at the foot of the mountain, and is only one-third of a mile long ; is remarkable for the coolness and purity of its water, which seldom or never freezes. Its mouth is at the head of Elmer's island.
Salmon Brook enters the river at the foot of Elmer's island. It received its name from the abundance of salmon caught here ; and is mentioned in the earliest local records extant. Samuel Hunt had built a saw-mill " on first Salmon brook " before 1768.
Island-meadow Brook, or Island brook, as it is sometimes called in early deeds, empties at the head of Clary's island.
Little-meadow Brook, now known as Belding's brook, crosses the state line near the South Vernon rail-road station, and empties at the lower end of Little meadow. 1
Moose-plain Brook rises back of Second-moose plain, and empties near the old Prindle ferry.
Mallory's Brook is at the south end of the Moose-plain lots.
Bennett's Brook, called by the Indians Natanis, rises in the north- west part of the town, runs in a southerly course, and reaches the Connecticut at the lower end of Bennett's meadow.
Feb. 23, 1720, the committee granted " the stream upon Bennett's brook to Serge Benoni Moore, Joseph Petty, Ebenezer Field and Nathaniel Mattoon, for a saw-mill, with the lands that may be neces- sary for ponding and to lay logs by the same - in case they build it by May come twelvemonth and improve the mill from that time for- ward for their own and the Town's benefit and service." The privi- lege is now known as Sawyer's mills, comprising both saw and grist-mills.
Several affluents of Miller's river rise in the east part of Northfield, flowing to the south. Among them are :
Jack's Brook, which rises on the east slope of Old Crag, and
Keeup's Brook, which rises in Great swamp. These unite not far from the Erving line. There is sufficient fall and power for two mill privileges, on one of which a mill was built by Zechariah Field, and sold in 1834 to Calvin Priest. Tradition names these brooks from two Indians who lived near them, just south of the Northfield line.
MOUNTAINS .- The range of Highlands which extends through the length of the town east of the Connecticut river, has various promin- ences,. each with some peculiarity of conformation. These bear
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History of Northfield.
different names ; some of which are characteristic, some historical, and some fanciful. As seen from the village there appears to be a nearly continuous range, with irregular depressions, cut down some- times to near the base, through which the streams descend to the plain. A view from the hills on the west side of the river shows the outlines with more distinctness, and gives to the different peaks and intervening depressions more character ; and from this distance the whole range has a broken and detached appearance. A bird's eye view reveals parallel ridges, in echelon order, or trending off at a more or less acute angle, with corresponding and intersecting valleys, and broad plats where flourishing farms once nestled. A view from any point, near or remote, unfolds a landscape of rich variety and magnificence and broadness, seldom seen in such direct connec- tion with extensive cultivated plains and meadows, and skirted by a quiet but busy village. The river, and the main street of the town, and the back-ground of hills, all having common lines, give a sense of uniformity and fitness ; and the striking contrasts of nature and art : the rounded or jagged outlines, and long vistas, and blending of lights and shades, give finish to the picture.
Beginning at Miller's river, the high eminence bounding that stream is known as Poplar mountain. This is wholly in Erving. Directly north, and over the Northfield line, is South mountain. Then Beers's mountain still further north, with Beers's bill at its southwest foot. These were named for Capt. Richard Beers, who was killed by the Indians here in 1675, and buried in a south-westerly spur of the hill.
East of Beers's mountain, and nearly in a line with it, is a bold promontory, which appears as the starting point of a parallel range, and bears the characteristic designation of Old Crag. Between Beers's and Crag is an odd shaped prominence called Roman T, from its re- semblance in outline to the letter T in Roman character. East of Crag are the first Bald hills. North of Crag is Brush mountain. This is famous for its natural Ice-house, and Rattle-snake den, both of which are on the eastern declivity. Passing up the Gulf road, one comes to Cold spring, about twenty rods from which is a fissure in the rocks, perhaps 10 feet deep by 4 feet wide, extending into the mountain indefinitely, where snow and ice collect in winter, and are usually found in considerable quantities as late as the fourth of July. A little to the south, and higher up the mountain, is the den. This is a small opening to an internal cave where the reptiles resorted in great multitudes for their winter sleep. There is always a perceptible current of air at the mouth, warm in winter and cold in
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Introduction.
summer, and sufficiently strong to carry off a small dry leaf. For quite a space around, the snow melts as it falls, leaving the ground bare. Both rattle snakes and coons have been found in considerable numbers among these rocks, in more modern times.
A water-spout burst on this mountain, just below the Ice-house, June 7, 1866. The day was clear and exceedingly sultry. After noon a small cloud, heavily charged with electricity, came across the river from the west. There was a smart shower as it passed over Northfield street. Just as it reached the mountains, it met another similar cloud coming from the north-west. Up to the time of contact, the wind was not unusually strong ; nor was any thing remarkable noticed by observers. But at that moment the cloud seemed to drop into the gulf, and the whole upper. valley became a scene of wildest commotion. It was " black as night ;" and the rush and roar and thunder were terrific. Shortly after, and as the first intimation of what had happened, a torrent of water swept down the gulf, filling the lower valley, and clearing its track of every obstruction, till it reached the Connecticut. 'The side of the mountain where it struck was left a bare rock. Trees and small stones were floated away. Rocks weighing many tons were overturned and moved down the slope. Such was the force of the rushing mass, that on reaching the arable land at the foot of the mountain, on the farm of Asa A. Holton, Esq., it took up the entire soil down to the hard pan for many rods in width. A boulder eight feet in diameter, was washed out and car- ried about four rods from its original bed. The destruction of farm lands and crops was immense. After remaining stationary a short time, the storm-cloud moved slowly up and over the mountain, and spent itself on the eastern declivity. Though less than where it first broke, the amount of water discharged here was enough to do great damage to cultivated fields, and to the mills on Keeup's brook, and at its junction with Miller's river at Erving Centre.
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East of Brush mountain and equal in height are the upper Bald bills. To the north, and in range with the hills, is Stratton mountain, with its once fruitful farm covering the summit. Near by is Shuttle bill. North of Brush mountain, though entirely separated from it by the bed of Miller's brook, is Round mountain, with characteristic and graceful outlines. Standing directly east from the centre of the vil- lage, it is an object of special interest ; and Round Knob, at its western foot makes a pleasant relief. Then come Little Hemlock, and across Mill brook, Notch mountain, which with its abrupt front and notched contour, forms an object of striking grandeur. Great Hemlock is a
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History of Northfield.
little out of range to the eastward, with an evident geological relation to Mount Grace in Warwick.
Pine Mountain is north of Notch, with Second brook between. Strobridge Hill is west of Notch, and Whortleberry Hill south-west. The latter is named in early deeds and records ; but after 1756 it is called Hubbard's Hill, from the second pastor of the church, who owned a large pasture here. Louisana is the name applied to the broken ridge near Second brook. Bunker Hill is near Hemlock mountain, in the Third Division of Commons.
Staddle Hill (now in Winchester) is north of Pauchaug brook, and east of the plain. It was a well known and much coveted tract, in the Third Settlement, being then covered with a young and thrifty growth of wood. Chestnut Hill is still further to the north and above the Ashuelot.
Near the present village of Hinsdale, and below the Ashuelot, are two prominences, commemorating two early settlers, whose descend- ants still hold theterritory. The northernmost and highest is Taylor's Mountain. It was included in the 500 acres purchased by Thomas Taylor, for a Spanish pistareen per acre. The other is Stebbins's Hill, a little to the south.
Meadow Hill was the common name applied to the bluff or ridge which bounded the river meadows. This varied greatly in height as well as in general character. In some parts the ascent is abrupt, and from 100 to 200 feet. Such points have commonly some distinctive appellation. The best known and most striking of these is the one called Old Fort Hill, now in Hinsdale. It stands directly back of Cooper's Point, a half-mile above the mouth of the Ashuelot. The high plain here trends to the west, and turns the course of the Con- necticut so that it makes an ox-bow bend. The hill is about 100 feet higher than the meadow, and perhaps 150 feet above the ordi- nary water level. The sides are steep, and the top was the site of the main fort or stronghold of the Squakheags, before the Mohawk incursion of 1663-4. Further description of the hill and fort belongs more properly to the narrative in a subsequent chapter.
To the north, and particularly near Merry's-meadow brook, the hill is still higher, and was known as Great Hill.
To the south, just below the mouth of the Ashuelot, is a point of the bluff which has a conical shape, and was the site of an Indian fort.
At the extreme south end of the town, on Pembroke-grant brook, is a similar cone-shaped hill, sometimes called Fort Hill. It is a little back from the Connecticut, about sixty feet in height, and has an area on the top of one acre. No distinct tradition connects it with known
I 3
Introduction.'
events of history ; but it is not unlikely that it was once the site of an Indian fort.
Two small hills to the southward of Old Crag, just over the Erving line, bear the names of Jack's Hill and Keeup's Hill. The former is directly east of the house of Calvin Priest. Keeup's hill is on the home place of Jonathan Delva. Tradition marks them as the sites of Indian cabins ; and the respective names commemorate the native occupants.
On the west side of the river the highlands are less prominent, and are not specially connected with our annals. Pisgah, and Grass Hill, visible from Northfield street, are in Gill, though the latter was included within the bounds of this town from 1720 to 1795. Pond Mountain is in the north-west corner of the town. The name comes from a pond of 100 acres, known as White-lily pond, lying at its northerly base.
There are several noted points in the Meadow hill on this side of the river ; one is below the Great bend ; another against Little mea- dow; a third just above Bennett's meadow ; and a fourth a half-mile below this meadow. The one north of Bennett's meadow is known in history as Philip's Hill. It is a projection of the plain which comes near to the river bank. It was fortified in King Philip's time ; and was his rendezvous for a part of the winter of 1675-6. He was here March 7, 1676, the day that Mrs. Rowlandson reached the deserted plantation opposite, but moved up the river on the 8th. The hill was defended by a ditch and bank on the westerly side, and other- wise by its steep ascent ; but being only about sixty feet high, it was a position of no great strength.
MEADOWS .- The level lands on the banks of the Connecticut river were the chief dependence of the first settlers for grass, of which they yielded a super-abundance. The annual burning over of these meadows and adjacent uplands by the Indians had kept them clean from brush and made them ready for the scythe ; and the native grasses, if cut early, were palatable to stock, and highly nutritious. The higher portion of these meadows was ready to be broken up by the plow, and produced great crops of wheat, flax and corn.
These lands were of course the most desirable and valuable; and were the first to be allotted and enclosed. Every engager for the First and Second Settlements received, in addition to a home-lot, a share of these interval lands, proportionate to the amount he sub- scribed to the common stock. Hence the river meadows were all named ; and the names then given are land-marks in history - occur-
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History of Northfield.
ring in early grants and deeds, and in most instances perpetuated to the present day.
These tracts of meadow are not continuous. In many places the bluff or high plain comes quite to the channel and borders the river for a considerable distance. Much of the soil is purely alluvial - formed by the deposits of the spring floods. The current is contin- ually wearing in some points, and filling up in others ; hence some meadows are gaining and others losing ; and the change in the course of a century is very considerahle.
The matter of fencing these meadows - when cattle were allowed to run at large - was an item of some cost and constant care to the early settlers. At first, when every householder had his lot in each interval, this matter was properly a town affair. But when from increase of population, or the buying up of small claims, the owner- ship became a strictly individual concern, the proprietors of each meadow organized themselves into a body corporate, which had con- trol of the whole matter of fencing and feeding. They held their annual meetings, and chose clerk, fence-viewers, and haywards, determined each man's proportion of fence, and assessed a rate on themselves to pay all incidental charges.
Beginning at the south and on the east side of the river, the first of importance is :
Pine Meadow .- This is not named in the two earlier Settlements ; and it appears to have been then covered with a young growth of yel- low pines, and consequently was not considered of much value. Oak, or rift timber, as it was called, i. e., timber that could be readily split into clap-boards and shingles, was the only kind thought to be fit for use for buildings and fences.
Next above are the Three Little Meadows, now known as Little meadows, lying west of Cow plain. These are of special historical interest, as having received their name before any settlement was made at Northfield. And the southern end of these meadows marks the original south bound of the township, as laid out by the first Com- mittee in 1672. The entire lower part of this interval belonged to the farm which was granted in 1719 to Col. John Stoddard of North- ampton, as part of the 100 acres set to him, in recognition of and payment for his services as clerk of the Committee for Northfield. In 1729, Col. Stoddard sold this farm for £550, to Ensign Zechariah Field and Orlando Bridgeman ; and it is known in modern times as the Field farm. As seen from the higher ground, the strip of inter- val appears to be a single long and narrow meadow : but originally it
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Introduction.
was crossed by two little brooks which cut gullies and divided it into three parts - and hence the name.
Great Meadow .- This tract - originally rated at 385 acres - from its size and location directly west of the town plot, was the first of the meadows to be divided to the settlers, and was the most valuable of all the alluvial lands. It was both the town's granary and treasury and storehouse. It was lotted out before the planters moved upon the ground ; and was the only common field which was fenced in during the First Settlement. And every grantee had his due propor- tion in this fruitful interval. To distinguish it from the large meadow on the west side of the river, some miles higher up, when that upper tract was lotted out in the Second Settlement this was called "The Great meadow by the town," and is so designated in early deeds.
The soil in this large meadow varied in different parts, as affected by stagnant water, or unequal action of freshets ; and for the pur- poses of taxation the land was distinguished into first and second quali- ties. The lots were laid out east and west. Two highways were laid from the town street to the meadow, and an intersecting highway in the meadow crossing every man's lot.
Pauchaug .- The meadow now known by this Indian name, con- tained 130 acres, and was next in value to Great meadow, as it was next in convenience of location. The word pauchauog signifies, danc- ing place ; and from the peculiar application of the term by the first English comers, and from the peculiar conformation of the bluffs on the easterly side, as well as from the fact that the place was about equidistant from Massemet's and Nawelet's villages, it is believed that the two native clans were accustomed to meet here for their an- nual games and merry-making.
This tract was rich and productive, and was alloted to the settlers ( though not fenced ) in 1673. But as the new comers at the reset- tlement in 1685, complained that these best lands were already appro- priated, and thus their shares unequal, the first grantees agreed "to give up Pauchaug," and have it relotted to the settlers, without regard to previous rights. Most of this meadow fell to the new comers.
Doolittle's Meadow .- Originally this tract of low land was partly included in the Wells's meadow draught,' and partly in the Fifth meadow draught, as they were named and allotted in 1685-6. It was
" The term draught was used to designate any tract of land which was by order of the town surveyed by the sworn measurers, and of which a plun or draught was made, ready to be drawn for by lot on a specified day.
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History of Northfield.
not as large nor as valuable then as now, the current being nearer the eastern bank, and the land more marshy. The present name commemorates the first pastor of the church and his heirs, who have been large owners here.
Asbuelot Meadow, as the name was applied by the settlers in 1685, embraced only the low land which formed the tongue between this stream and the Connecticut. The -two meadows higher up the Ashuelot were not divided, till the choice pitches were assigned in 1731. The Ashuelot draught, as it was called, took in the tongue of land above named, and the large meadow opposite, on the westerly side of the Connecticut.
Merry's Meadow lay above the site of the old Hinsdale meeting- house. It extended from Merry's meadow brook northerly 367 perches. It received its name from Cornelius Merry, a Northfield settler of 1673 and 1685, who in the latter year had a grant of 11} acres at the south end of the meadow. The balance of the tract was not allotted till the Third Settlement.
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