The statistics and gazetteer of New-Hampshire. Containing descriptions of all the counties, towns and villages statistical tables with a list of state officers, etc., Part 65

Author: Fogg, Alonzo J., comp
Publication date: 1874
Publisher: Concord, N.H., D. L. Guernsey
Number of Pages: 728


USA > New Hampshire > The statistics and gazetteer of New-Hampshire. Containing descriptions of all the counties, towns and villages statistical tables with a list of state officers, etc. > Part 65


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Franconia Mountains .- The Franconia range comes next in order of lofty elevations in New-Hampshire. This range lies about twenty miles south-west from the base of Mount Washington, and the nearest point to reach them by cars is at Littleton ; the moun- tains being twelve miles south-east from the depot, where stages are always in waiting on the arrival of each train through the season of travel. The highest elevations in this range are Mount Lafay- ette, 5,290 feet, and Mount Lincoln, 5,101 feet. There are many attractions around these mountains which call many visitors hither every season. The Profile House is one of the largest hotels in the State, and in the height of the season is filled to its utmost capacity. To show its magnitude, it is only necessary to say that the main parlor is 50 by 100 feet, and the house can accommodate over five hundred guests at one time. There are other fine hotels, but this is the largest.


Among the places worthy of a visit is, first, The Old Man of the Mountain, one of the greatest natural curiosities in the State. This wonderful profile of the human face, wearing from age to age the same undisturbed expression of dignity and wisdom, and surveying in calm majesty the wild and varied region around, is seen on a bold and nearly perpendicular part of the rock which terminates one of the projecting cliffs of Mount Jackson, at the height of one thousand feet. The profile is produced by a peculiar combination of the surfaces and angles of five huge granite blocks. And


" Great as thou art, and paralleled by none, Admired by all, still art thou drear and lone ! The moon looks down upon thine exiled height; The stars, so mildly, spiritually bright, On wings of morning gladly flit away, To mix with their more genial, mighty ray."


The Flume is a deep chasm, having precipices of granite on each side; it is about three fourths of a mile from the main road, on the right-hand as you go towards Franconia Notch. A mountain


576


MOUNTAINS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


torrent rushes through its midst, falling over precipitous crags and loose masses of rocks. It is not practicable to walk in the bed of the Flume during the spring freshets and in early summer; but late in the season but little water flows. and the bottom of the river affords a good foot-path.


One of the most remarkable objects in the Flume is an immense rounded block of granite, which hangs a few feet overhead, supported merely by small surfaces of contact against its sides. To the traveler passing in the bed of the stream and under- neath this huge block, the appearance is that it must instantly fall upon him.


Moosilauke or Moosehillock, in Benton, is the next highest moun- tain in range, and has an altitude of 4,991 feet. The nearest point by cars is Warren. The distance from the depot to the base of the mountain is four miles ; and thence by carriage road four miles to the summit. It is becoming a popular resort for mountain tourists, and Prof. A. Guyot says in respect to the scenery from the crest of this mountain, " The panorama which is before your eyes at the summit of Moosilauke is nearly the most extensive I have found in New-England, not excepting even that from M'ts. Washington and Lafayette, over which it possesses many advantages. This is due to the insulated position of that mountain outside of the group of the White Mountains proper, combined with its great elevation which surpasses by 1000 feet to 1500 feet the surrounding heights, while it is less than 500 feet below the summit of Lafayette. The eye thus embraces at a single glance in the north and northeast, all the chains of the White Mountain group from Lafayette and M't Washington to the highest peaks of the central, southern and east- ern chains in Sandwich and Conway. Towards the south and east the whole State of New-Hampshire, with its innumerable scattered hills and lakes, among which Winnipiseogee is conspicuous, and a part of Maine, complete the grand, instructive, raised map which is opened before the beholder." See Benton and Warren.


Carrigan is located in the Upper Pemigewasset valley, a little south-east from the Franconia range, and is 4,678 feet in height.


Mount Imp and Mount Moriah are located in Bean's Purchase and are situated about four miles south south-east from Gorham village. Their altitudes are respectively 4,702, and 4,653 feet.


Carter Mountain, also in Bean's Purchase, but further south, is 4,830 feet high. The views from their summits are grand, but their


577


MOUNTAINS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


lofty elevations in themselves add much to the fine scenery around Gorham.


Monadnock commonly called the Grand Monadnock, situated in the towns of Jaffrey and Dublin in Cheshire county, is the highest elevation in the southern and central section of the State and has an altitude of 3,718 feet. The principal ascent is made from the Jaffrey side.


The scenery obtained from its summit is exceedingly fine. The country for many miles around appears like a vast plain studded with numerous villages and ponds. See Jaffrey.


Mount Carr, in Wentworth, has a height of 3,652 feet. The view from its crest is extensive.


Pegnawket or Kiarsarge Mountains, lies partly in Bartlett and partly in Chatham, is 3,358 feet high. It is about three miles from North Conway, one of the greatest points for summer tourists in New-Hampshire. The view from the summit of this mountain is very fine and extensive.


Table Mountain, is in Conway and has an altitude of 3,305 feet.


Prospect Mountain, is situated in Holderness and Campton, about four miles from Plymouth depot. It is about 2,963 feet in height, and a view from its summit, is of the most diversified char- acter. A good carriage road has been built to its very top, and is much travelled by visitors stopping in Plymouth.


Kearsarge Mountain, is situated in the towns of Salisbury, Warn- er, Sutton and Wilmot in Merrimack county, and has an elevation of 2,742 feet above tide water. It is approached by the cars on the Northern railroad at the Potter Place depot in Andover, being only four miles to the Winslow House on the side of the mountain, and within one fourth of a mile from its summit. This fine hotel is within the limits of Wilmot. It is reached on its southern side, by the Concord and Claremont Railroad, at Warner. A carriage road has been built on this side of the mountain nearly to the summit. The views from this mountain are the finest in the State. (See Warner and Andover.)


Ossipee. Ossipee Mountain has no connecting chain with other mountains, but is a separate mound, about six miles in diameter and is located within the limits of the towns Sandwich, Tamworth, Ossipee, Tuftonborough and Moultonborough. It is over 2,300 feet high, and presents a grand and imposing appearance, from all the towns surrounding it.


578


MOUNTAINS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


There are many other mountains in the State worthy of men- tion, and through the courtesy of William Little Esq., of Manches- ter, we are enabled to give the altitude of a large number of the mountains in New-Hampshire and the names of the towns or grants in which they are located. This will be valuable and in- teresting for future reference.


ALTITUDES.


Heights of Mountains, in New-Hampshire, above Tide Water


Meas- Where situated. ured by


Where situated. ured by


Mt. Washington, White Mountains, Guyot, 6,293 Cardigan,


Mt. Adams,


66


66


5,79+


Percy Peak,


Orange, Dr. Jackson, 3,350 Stark,


Mt. Jefferson,


60


5,714


Table Mt.,


Conway,


3,305


Mt. Clay,


66


66


5,553


Mote Mt.,


Penrigewassett, 66 Woodstock,


3.200


Mt. Monroe,


66


"


5,384 Echo Mt.,


Guyot,


3,152


Mt. Lafayette,


Franconia,


5,290 Mt. Crawford,


White Mts.


3,134


Mt. Lincoln,


Jackson,


3,120


Moosilauke,


Benton, Huntington, 4,941


Mt. Prospect,


Holderness, Huntington, 2,963 Rumney, 66 2,960


Mt. Franklin,


White Mts.


4,904 Green's Cliff,


Pemigewassett, Guyot, 2,958


Mt. Carter,


Bean's Purchase,


4,830 Campton Mt.,


Camtpon, Huntington, 2,879


Mt. Pleasant,


White Mts.


4,764 Mt. Kearsarge,


Warner, Capt Partridge, 2,742 Lyman, Huntington, 2,608


Mt. Moriah,


Bean's Purchase,


66


66 4,678 Crown Mon'nt, Cor. Me. N. H. & Ca., Wells, 2,569 4,653 Mt. Belknap,


Mt. Hancock,


Pemigewassett, 66


66


4,400 Pack Monadnock,


Mt. Osceola,


66 4,397 Mt. Mist,


Warren,


Guyot, 2,449 Quimby, 2,385 Huntington, 2,373


Mt. Blue,


16 Woodstock, White Mts.


4,370 Ossipee Mts.,


Ossipee,


Dr. Jackson, 2,361


Mt. Willey,


Pemigewassett, White Mts. Landaff,


4,200 Crotched Mt.,


Francestown,


Quimby,


Bald Knob,


Pemigewassett,


4,100 Mt. Sentinel,


Warren,


Guyot,


2,209


White Face Mt.


White Mts.


66


4,100 Stoddard Mt.,


Stoddard,


Quimby, 2,200


Tripyramid,


Pemigewassett, 66


4,030 Gunstock Mt.,


Gilford,


Dr. Jackson, 2,062 2,050 66


Mt. Royse,


Chatham,


3,910 Red Hill,


Moultonborough, Bartlett,


Huntington, 2,000


Brick House Mt.,


Pemigewassett, Jaffrey,


Wells, 3,711 Catamount Mt.,


Pitsfield,


Dr. Jackson, 1,151


Mt. Black,


Pittsburg, Bent on, Carrol,


66


3,670 Blue Mt.,


Goffstown, Milton,


Northwood,


66


1,072


Mt. Kineo,


Ellsworth,


66


3.540


Pawtuckaway Mt., Deerfield,


892


Giant Stairs,


Pemigewassett,


60


3,500 Sunapee Mountain, Newbury, starting from


Mt. Cushman


Woodstock,


Mt. Resolution, White Mts.


3,400 There are more than one hundred other


Bear Mt., Pemigewassett, 66


Guyot, 3,400 mountains in New-Hampshire from 1,000 to


Tremont Park,


3,393 4,000 feet high, but as their altitude has never


Pequawket, Bartlett & Chatham,


Owl's Head,


Benton,


Heights of some of the Lakes and Ponds of New-Hampshire above Tide Water.


Feet


Feet


Lake of the Clouds,


White Mts.,


5,009 Umbagog Lake,


1,256


Eagle Pond,


Mt. Lafayette,


4,170 Sunapee Lake,


1,080


Deer Lake,


Moosilauke,


4,090 Winnepisseogee Lake,


501


Pond, source of the Magalloway,


2,917 Ossipee Lake,


408


Echo Lake,


Franconia Notch ,


1,926 Massabesic Lake;


255


Connecticut Lake,


1,616


Piermont,


Huntington, 2,167 66 2,162


Mt. Passaconaway,


Sandwich Dome,


66


3,969


Bald Top Mt.,


Wentworth,


66 2,025


Mt. Cannon,


Franconia,


3,850 Ragged Mt.,


Andover,


66


2,000


Mt. Monadnock


Dr. Davis, 3,718 Barrett Mt.,


Temple,


Quimby, 1,887


Cherry Mt.,


Wentworth,


66 3,652 Saddleback Mt.,


66 3,557 Moose Mt.,


Hanover,


1,000


Chocorua,


Albany,


66


4,100 Piermont Mt., 4,086 Squam Mt.,


Holderness,


Guyot,


2,340


Mt. Clinton,


4,320 Smart's Mt.,


Dorchester,


Huntington, 2,254 2,223


Mt. Kinsman,


Bean's Purchase,


4,702 Gardner Mt.,


Mt. Carrigain,


Pemigewassett,


66


4,420 Mt. Deception,


Cone Mt.


Gilford, Dr. Jackson, 2,470 White Mts. Temple,


Wild Cat Mt.,


4,350 Mt. Cube,


Orford,


3,170


Mt. Madison,


5.365 Mt. Waternomes,


Twin Mountain, Pemigewasset,


Guyot, 4,920


Stinson Mt.,


Imp Mt.


4,330 Webster Slide Mt., Warren,


3,850 Tron Mt.,


Mt. Carmel,


Guyot, 3,701 |Uncanoonucks,


Quimby, 1,388


Dr. Jackson, 1,415


Mount Carr,


66 3,456 the shores of Sunapee Lake is about


1,600


3,358 been ascertained they are not inserted in this list. 3,357


Meas-


Huntington, 3,336 66


5,101 Double Head Mt.


Mt. Jackson,


579


LAKES IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


Heights of some of the Notches or Passes, of New Hampshire, above Tide Water.


Feet.


Feet


Water shed between Swift river and the Pemigewassett,


Milan Summit, G. T. R. R., 1,100


2,618| Harrisville Summit, M. & K. R. R., 1,084


Pinkham Notch,


2,018 Oliverian Notch, 1,078


Franconia Notch,


2,014 Whitefield Summit, B. C. & M. R. R.,


1,072


White Mts. Notch,


1,903 Orange Summit, N. R. R.,


990


Stoddard Summit,


1,555


NEW-HAMPSHIRE HILLS.


We've stood beside Niagara's flood, And mused on Nature's skill,


But nothing there His genius shows Like a New-Hampshire hill.


We've sailed upon broad ocean's wave- God calms it if He wills-


But nothing there shows quiet peace Like old New-Hampshire hills.


We've been within the nation's dome, Stood gazing with a thrill;


But nothing there inspires such awe As a New-Hampshire hill.


Within the banker's safe we've stood- Steel chests his lucre fills- But nothing there shows half the wealth Of old New-Hampshire hills.


We've seen prairies and their flowers, Beside their sparkling rills, But nothing there looks half so fair As old New-Hampshire hills.


When death's cold hand upon us 's laid, And life's warm blood he chills, Then gently lower us to our graves, 'Mid old New-Hampshire hills.


LAKES IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


In a country where the surface is broken by hills and lofty mountains, there will be deep gorges and valleys, which afford basins where the streams from the hill, and mountain sides are


580


LAKES IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


drained, thus producing many lakes and ponds, and frequently pre- senting a natural painting of mountain, lake and river scenery, here and there touched with the brush held by the skilled hand of civilization and all blended in one grand and magnificent view of nature and art combined.


In this respect, New-Hampshire is not an exception. Her many lakes and ponds among her mountains and hills have justly entitled her to the name of the Switzerland of America, and much of the scenery around her lakes is not excelled in beauty, even by the lake scenery in Switzerland.


Connecticut Lake, lies in the northern section of the State in Coos county, and is the source of one of the principal branches of Con- necticut river. It is five and a half miles in length, and two and a half in width. The lake contains an abundance of fish and the scenery on its banks is very beautiful. A few miles above this lake is a smaller body of water, and still farther north another lake. These three bodies of water are distinguished as First, Sec- ond and Third Lakes, the latter being about five miles from Can- ada line.


Many travellers annually visit these northern lakes for fishing and pleasure recreation :


And, when the firey horse, Upon the iron track, Shall move his gaudy train Along their grassy banks, Freighted with precious life ; Then, will nature yield a half to art. And blended beauty quicken the eye of man.


Mascomy (or Mascoma) Lake. (See Enfield.)


Massabesick Lake. (See Auburn.)


Newfound Lake is pleasantly located in the towns of Bridge- water, Bristol and Hebron. It is about seven miles long and three wide, and empties into Pemigewassett river, at Bristol, by Newfound river.


Ossipee Lake. (See Ossipee.)


Spafford's Lake. (See Chesterfield.)


Squam Lake borders on the counties of Grafton, Belknap and Carroll; and on the towns of Holderness, Sandwich, Moultonbor- ough and Center Harbor. It is about six miles long, and, in its widest part, three miles in width. It is a splendid sheet of water,


.


581


LAKES IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


studded with a succession of romantic islands. Its outlet is Squam River which discharges into the Pemigewasset River, in Ashland.


Sunapee Lake is situated nearly on the height of land between the Connecticut and Merrimack rivers, and is elevated about 1,000 feet above tide water. It borders on the eastern part of Sullivan, and western part of Merrimack Counties, and is in the towns of New London, Newbury and Sunapee. It is about ten miles in length and from one half to one and one half miles in width and is noted for the fine, picturesque scenery which surrounds it. Sugar River is its outlet, which flows westerly into the Connecticut, at Claremont.


Umbagog Lake, but little inferior in size to Lake Winnipiseogee, is situated mostly in Maine, and extends along the eastern part of Erroll and Cambridge, in New-Hampshire. It is irregularly shaped, is about eighteen miles long and, in some parts, ten wide. The scenery around this lake is wild and romantic, and it is a great resort for hunting and fishing, for lovers of those sports. Its outlet is on the west side, in Erroll, its waters flowing west, about two miles, where it joins the Magalloway, after which it is called the Androscoggin River.


Winnipiseogee Lake. This Lake possesses singular charms. However romantic and beautiful Lake George, the charmer of all travellers, appears, in its elevation, the purity of its waters, its depth, its rapid outlet, the 365 islands which bespangle its bosom, its mountain scenery, its fish, its mineralogy ; still, in all but its historic fame, it has a rival at the east, in the Winnipiseogee of New-Hampshire.


There are various ways of spelling the name of this lake, but the present mode of spelling it is Winnipiseogee, pronounced Wini- pisoky or Winnepesocke. This Lake is in the counties of Belknap and Carroll. Its form is very irregular. At the west end it is di- vided into three large bays ; on the north is a fourth, and at the east end there are three others. Its general course is from north- west to south east; its length is about twenty-five miles and it va- ries in width from one to ten miles. This lake is environed by the pleasant towns of Moultonborough, Tuftonborough, Wolfeborough, Center Harbor, Meredith, Gilford and Alton, and overlooked by other delightful towns.


The waters are remarkably pure, and its depth, in some places, is said to be unfathomable. Its sources are principally from


582


RIVERS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


springs within its bosom. Its outlet is the rapid river of its own name. Its height, above the level of the sea, is 472 feet. It is stored with a great variety of excellent fish. In the summer sea- son steamboats, sloops, and smaller vessels ply on its waters, and in the winter season it presents an icy expansion of great useful- ness and beauty.


It is said to contain 365 islands, several of which compose farms of from 200 to 500 acres.


Of the scenery of this lake Edward Everett has left this testi- mony, in a speech made in New-Hampshire some years ago : "I have been something of a traveler in our own country, though less than I could wish, and in Europe have seen all that is attractive, from the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constanti- nople-from the summit of the Hartz Mountains to the fountains of Vauclure ; but my eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Wier's Landing to Center Harbor." What is true of this trip is true of that from Wolfeborough to Wier's, and in fact of all the trips to be taken upon the lake. The most experienced call them equally fine.


In the warm season the two splendid steamers, Lady of the Lake, and Mt. Washington, both new, ply upon the lake; two points at which it may be approached from the south, and two ยท points of departure for the mountains. The former runs between the Wier's, Centre Harbor, and Wolfeborough, and the latter be- tween Alton Bay, Wolfeborough, and Centre Harbor. The Bos- ton, Concord, and Montreal Railroad connects with the former at Wier's, and the Boston and Maine with the latter, at Alton Bay. At Wolfeborough there is a rail connection with the Eastern Rail- road by the Wolfeborough branch, at Wolfeborough Junction, in Wakefield.


There are many other small lakes and ponds in various sections of the State, all having their peculiar charms, of which mention has been made in describing the towns in which they are located-


RIVERS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


Owing to the mountainous and elevated position of the State, and the proximity to the ocean, the streams are necessarily short, with rapid currents, and produce some of the best water power in the country.


583


RIVERS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


The scenery along many of its river banks is not excelled, for beauty and grandeur, by any river scenery on the globe. The waters of its thousand rivulets find their way to the ocean through five different channels, viz., the Connecticut River drains the western section of the State; Androscoggin River the north-eastern portion, north of the White Mountains; Saco River the southern portion of the White Mountains, and the eastern part of the State, as far west and south as the highlands which separate its waters from those of the Merrimack and Piscataqua; the Piscataqua the south-eastern section of the State; and the Merrimack River which drains the south-western section of the White Mountains and the whole central portion of New-Hampshire from east to west, to Mas- sachusetts line. A few towns on the coast may have their drainage directly into the ocean.


Our knowledge of its hydraulical resources for moving machinery are not as perfect as we would like. Three commissioners were appointed by the Governor, in 1872, to make a survey of the State as to its hydraulic powers, but neglected to attend to their duties for the reason that the appropriation was not sufficient to make a satisfactory report of this valuable and most important resource of the State. Ten thousand dollars could not be better appro- priated than for a thorough survey of the water power of New- Hampshire.


The total amount of water power, now improved, is about 69,000 horse power. By forming reservoirs to retain the water, and throwing dams across rivers, and excavating canals, it is said this capacity could be nearly doubled.


Ammonoosuc Upper .- Upper Ammonoosuc River, coming from the south, has its source in the northern part of Randolph, and passes north, through Berlin and western part of Milan, thence in a westerly direction through Stark and Northumberland, where it empties into the Connecticut. Its principal tributaries are Phillips River, coming from the north through Odell, western part of Mills- field and Dummer, and joining the Ammonoosuc in Stark; and Nash's Stream, coming from the eastern portion of Columbia and Strafford, and passing into the Ammonoosuc in the northern part of Northum- berland. Its whole length is about fifty miles. It waters a basin of 150,000 acres or 234 square miles ; and its improved water power is about 900 horse power.


Ammonoosuc Lower .- Lower Ammonoosuc River has its source


584


RIVERS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


on the western side of the White Mountains; thence passing west through the southern portion of Carroll and northern part of Beth- lehem to Littleton; thence, in a southerly direction, through the easterly part of Littleton, the westerly part of Lisbon, diagonally through Bath, and joining the Connecticut near the westerly corner of Haverhill. A considerable stream coming from Lincoln and Franconia passes in a north-westerly direction and joins the Am- monoosuc in Lisbon. Two miles from its mouth, it receives the Wild, Ammonoosuc, coming from the northerly part of Benton through Landaff. The Lower Ammonoosuc is noted for its roman- tic falls in the vicinity of the White Mountains. It is said to be the wildest and most rapid stream in New-Hampshire, having a fall of over 5,000 feet in its meandering course of about fifty miles. It drains a surface of over 220,000 acres or 344 square miles of ter- ritory. Its improved horse water power is about 2,700, with three times that capacity unimproved.


Androscoggin River is formed principally from the waters of Umbagog Lake and Magalloway River which unite about two miles below the lake. The Magalloway, which is its princi- pal tributary, has its source and principal course in Maine, and crosses the State line at Wentworth's Location, thence southerly through the Location and forms the Androscoggin in Erroll. The Magalloway receives the water of Dimond River, coming from the eastern part of Stewartstown, easterly, through Dixville and Dartmouth College Grant, and joining it across the line in Maine.


From Errol the Androscoggin flows in a southerly direction through the north-westerly corner of Cambridge, south-easterly corner of Dummer, easterly part of Milan and Berlin to the centre , of Gorham, whence it flows in an easterly direction through Shel- burne into Maine; thence, in a meandering course, easterly and southerly, about one hundred and twenty miles, where it meets the tide water at Brunswick.


In its passage in New-Hampshire it receives the waters of Clear Stream, in Erroll, coming from Dixville and Millsfield; and Peabody River, in Gorham, coming through the White Mountain passes near the head waters of Ellis River. Its whole course, in this State, is about sixty miles, and it drains a territory of about 500,000 acres or 787 square miles. The Androscoggin is a rapid stream, and at Berlin Falls, in New-Hampshire, is 1,055 feet above


585


RIVERS IN NEW-HAMPSHIRE.


tide water ; and the north-west head of Magalloway River is 2,917 feet. Improved power, 700


Ashuelot River is one of the most important streams, of its size, in the State, in point of improved water power. Its principal source is from ponds in Washington, and flowing thence, in a south- westerly direction, through Marlow, Gilsum, Surry, Keene, Swan- zey, Winchester, it empties into the Connecticut, at Hinsdale, near Massachusetts line. Its principal branches are a stream coming from Stoddard, through the north-west corner of Nelson, south- east corner of Sullivan and north-west corner of Roxbury, to Keene ; and one from Dublin, through Marlborough, to South-Keene, where it joins the stream coming from Stoddard. Also a stream comes from Troy, through the south-west corner of Marlbo- rough, and joins the Ashuelot in Swanzey. Nearly all of these sources are from ponds which have been dammed, thus producing large reservoirs and affording constant water power to the manufac- tories on the streams below. The length of the river is about for- ty miles, and it drains a basin of 240,000 acres, or 375 square miles. Its improved horse water power is about 3,600, with much still unimproved. From its source to the Connecticut it has a fall of nearly 1,000 feet.




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