USA > Pennsylvania > Bradford County > Athens > A history of old Tioga Point and early Athens, Pennsylvania > Part 29
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Hector St. Jean de Crêve-Coeur, a French writer, emigrated to America in 1754, and settled on a farm near New York, doubtless in Orange County, as April 28, 1779, he interviewed Mrs. Rachel Budd, who had lived on the Susquehanna. Her narrative he included in his "Letters of an American Farmer from 1780 to 1786." The Budds were among the earliest settlers in Wyoming, and in Bradford County. It is an interesting narrative, to be found in Craft's History, page 58. Additional extracts from Crêve-Coeur's letters were translated by Steuben Jenkins ; October 28, 1774, Vol. I, pp. 202 and 203, "Journey to Wyalusing" :
On the fifth day we arrived at Wyolucing situated ninety miles from Wilkesbury. It is an immense. plain of unbounded fertility. I observed the blue grass had been replaced by the white clover, with which all the pas- tures were covered. There were as yet only a few families living here, and their cattle were of the greatest beauty. All of their districts within line of Connecti- cut claims have an extent more or less considerable on the river, depending upon the distance of the heads of the mountains, the breadth of the plains, and the fertility of the wood-lands. The most narrow extend to both sides of the river. The savages were anxious to reach home, we therefore quit this place, passing up the river, they showed me the remains of the ancient villages of the Senecas, Sesusing (Sheshequin), Tioga, Chamond, Ockwackaa (Owego), Shenando, &c.
8 Now Ulster Narrows.
9 See previous chapter concerning Indians; also Penna. Archives.
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In fine, after three days navigation, always against the current, we landed at Anaquega,1º 198 miles from Wilkesbury. This great city is composed of more than 70 houses, some are wigwams made of the bark of the black birch, follow- ing the ancient usage, others of wood squared and joined at the corners with a dovetail. Here a worthy Moravian minister joined to the preaching of the gos- pel lessons on agriculture. It is to his zeal and perseverance that the savages owe the state of comfort in which they live."
An extract from a narrative of Timothy Pickering11 gives another visit to this region :
"Having in the year 1784 purchased an interest in a large location of lands in the vicinity of Great Bend, I set out with some others concerned, to view them in August 1786. We were under the necessity of passing through the Wyo- ming settlements from Nescopeck to Tioga. The inhabitants were invariably poor, their stock of cattle small. From Nescopeck to Tioga, a distance of 120 miles, we tasted bread but once."
In 1795 the Frenchman, Duc de la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, trav- eled through the State and published an extensive journal. He says of his visit here :
"The road from Old Sheshequin to Tioga, which had been represented as a very bad one, proved very good. Here the farm-houses lie closer together. Near Tioga the river of the same name discharges itself into the Susquehanna. The site of the town, or rather the 8 or 10 houses which are so called, is about two miles distant from the confluence of the two rivers. The price of land is eight dollars per acre. * * the price of wheat is seven shillings sixpence. * The town shares 16 yards wide and 50 deep cost twenty dollars. Some venison excepted, no fresh meat has been seen at Tioga since last Autumn. Last year there were three inns *
* this year but one; we found it crowded with trav- ellers from the Jerseys, Pennsylvania and New York, who intend to settle on the lakes. After a scanty supper we were all obliged to take up with two beds. The sheets which had already served three or four travellers were, according to the landlady, very clean. Yet, on the other hand, we enjoyed the special favor of being permitted to lie down in our boots, as those of our party really did, who like myself, preferred taking their repose on the ground wrapped in a blanket."
Luckless landlady ! We wonder was it Mrs. Irwin, Maxwell, Hep- burn or Harris?
In October, 1796, an Englishman, Isaac Weld, visited our town. He says :
"On arriving at this place (Lockhartsburg) we heard to our disappointment that the Susquehanna was nearly as low as the Tioga, scarcely sufficient water to float a canoe."
However they soon found a riverman who would assist them on their voyage, by whose advice they exchanged their two canoes for a larger one, and resumed their voyage:
"From Lockhartsburg to Wilkesbarre, or Wyoming, the distance is about ninety miles, and when the river is full-as in the fall or spring, you may go down in one day, but owing to the lowness of the water we were no less than four days performing the voyage. In many parts of the river we found the current very rapid ; at the Falls of Wyalusing for instance, we were carried three or four miles in about a quarter of an hour, but in other places, where the river was deep, scarcely any current was perceptible, and we were obliged to work our way with paddles. The country bordering on the river abounds with deer and as we passed down we met numberless parties of the country people engaged in
10 This name is not given by Dr. Beauchamp, but must mean Onondaga.
11 From Upham's "Life of Pickering."
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driving these animals. Very fine fish are found in every part of the Susque- hanna, and the river is much frequented by wild fowl, particularly by the can- vas back duck. * * *
"The whole way between Lockhartsburg and Wilkesbarre are settlements on each side of the river at no great distance from each other. There are also several small towns on the bank of the river, the principal one is Frenchtown-on the western side of the river. This town was laid out at the expense of several philanthropic persons of Pennsylvania, who entered into a subscription for the purpose, as a place of retreat for the unfortunate French emigrants who fled to America."-Weld's Travels in North America, London, 1800.12
In October, 1804, Alexander Wilson, a celebrated ornithologist visited Niagara Falls via Easton, Wyoming, Tioga Point and New- town. We quote some passages from his "Foresters," a poem describ- ing his journey. It is all most interesting, and we commend it to our readers. The entire portion describing Bradford County may be found in Craft's history of same, page 89. His description of the scenery between Frenchtown13 and Sheshequin is fine, and the visit to Obadiah Gore most interesting. This passage begins at "Gore's":
"And e'e'n in bed reposed, the listening ear Seemed still the accents of the sage to hear. The morning came; ye gods ! how quickly hies To weary folks the hour when they must rise ! Groping around we fix our various load And full equipt forth issued to the road. Inured to toil the woods slide swiftly past, O'er many an opening farm our eyes we cast ; Here rich flat meadows most luxuriant lie, Some gleaming orchards gladly we espy ; Full loaded peach trees drooping hung around,
Their mellow fruit thick scattered o'er the ground. Six cents procured us a sufficient store, Our napkins crammed, and pockets running o'er ; Delicious fare,-nor did we prize them less Than Jews did manna in the wilderness. Still journeying on the river's brink we keep, And pass the Narrow's high and dangerous steep, That to the clouds like towering Atlas soars, While deep below the parted river roars, Beyond its eastern stream on level lands There Athens (once Tioga) stands. Unlike that Athens known in days of old Where learning found more worshippers than gold, Here waste, unfinished, their sole schoolhouse lies, While pompous taverns all around it rise." 14
12 While this volume was not published until 1800, we think it quite probable that the following information was obtained from Weld or his party (from the "American Gazetteer," London, 1798): "Lockhartsburg, a town in Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, situated on an isthmus formed by the confluence of the Susquehannah and Tioga Rivers, about a mile above their junction. There are as yet but few houses built, but it promises to be a place of im- portance, as both the rivers are navagable for many miles into the State of New York. It is four miles south of the New York line, nearly 48 westerly of Harmony and 90 above Wilkesbarre."
On sober second thought we might attribute this notice to Richard Caton, the English- man, who ever had unbounded faith in the navigability of the Susquehanna.
13 For further information about Frenchtown see "The Story of Some French Refugees and their 'Azilum,'" by Louise Welles Murray, 1903.
14 'This alludes to the Academy, which at that time lay unfinished for lack of funds. But Matthewson's Old Red Tavern, the tavern in Hollenback building, and that of George Welles, were thriving, as well as Dr. Hopkins' and John Saltmarsh's, which latter still stands on corner of Chemung Street.
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Owing to the efforts of the well known Dr. Priestly many English- men made settlements along the Loyalsock (now in Sullivan County). Early in the nineteenth century a relative of one of these, Robert Sut- cliff, a Quaker merchant of Sheffield, England, came over, and as he says, "during frequent intervals of leisure which the nature of my mercantile concerns rendered unavoidable," he traveled extensively in the Middle States-upwards of ten thousand miles. His journal was written "without the remotest thought of publication," but is quite as interesting as any in existence, extending over the years 1804, 1805 and 1806. He visited this locality in 1805, coming from central New York :
"12th month 8th This day I travelled along the Bank of Lake Seneca, on which are many pleasing prospects. I had the company of a young man, son of the postmaster at Newtown. In the evening we came to Ely's tavern in Hector township, the son of our landlord was called Hector, the first white child born in the township, he appeared to be about 12 years old. This part abounds with deer and black squirrels, of which provision they had plenty, and we had some for supper; the squirrels were very fat.
"12th month 9th We left early and passed through a romantic country. where we had a view of one of the prettiest waterfalls I had ever seen. I was told that both white inhabitants and Indians kill many deer by hunting them down into the lake, on which they pursue them in a canoe. The pursuers soon overtake the deer, throw a halter over the horns, drag it to side of boat, take the life of the poor animal with a large knife, and then drag it on shore.
"About noon we reached Catharines at end of Lake, a wharf here, some business carried on in vessels of about 15 tons burden. * * We passed on through Catharines' Swamp, a deep narrow valley which resounded with howling of wolves. *. * My companion, by way of encouragement, informed me he had never heard of either a wolf or a bear attacking a man except when they or their young are first wounded.
"This evening we came to Newtown, and had good accommodations at Ellis' tavern, where I spent some time with a person of the name of Goldbride, who informed me that he was the first person who had attempted the navigation of the Showmonge into the Susquehanna, and on down to Chesapeake Bay. In this first attempt he had sustained considerable loss, and several of his boatmen were drowned, but from the improvements made in river, considerable business is now doing upon it.
"12th month 10th I left Newtown, and traveling along a thinly peopled country came to a small inn, kept by one, Esquire Wynkoop, where I got some refreshment. The innkeeper was not only a justice of the peace, but also a watchmaker. He appeared to be a very ingenious artist, and, as a magistrate, possessed a good share of useful knowledge. I perceived an edition of Burn's Justice on the shelf with his watchmaking tools, and therefore I suppose he ad- ministered justice according to law. (Wynkoop's was in the vicinity of Che- mung.) Towards evening I came to Tioga Point, where is the junction of the Showmonge with the Susquehanna; and took up my quarters at Doctor Hop- kins, an acquaintance of my relation J. E. (James Ecroyd) to whose habitation at Elklands I was bending my course. This night I lodged at the Doctor's, and next morning set out for Elklands. After travelling along the bank of the Sus- quehanna and passing by Sugar Creek, I came to Dotherly's tavern in the even- ing on the banks of Towandy Creek. Here I supped, and the next morning breakfasted on wild venison."
We will not take time to travel farther but would say, in the words. of one who has read the book (J. M. M. Gernerd, Muncy), "This vol- ume teems with striking remarks and pleasant anecdotes ; the traveler realizes that he is in a new world ; he has his eyes open to every sight, his ear to every sound, and he makes his reader realize that it is quite unlike the Old World. The book shows with a pleasing simplicity how
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our American ideas and growing institutions then impressed an Eng- lishman of liberal mind, a man of close observation and strong common sense." Nothing escaped his attention even to the smallest unknown reptile. The last quotation given in Gernerd's "Now and Then," we cannot forbear to copy :
"I observed the people (near Philadelphia) engaged in a singular kind of harvest, breaking up and taking away large quantities of ice to lay up for sum- mer use. Those who have never visited warm climates can scarcely conceive how pleasant the use of ice is, for various purposes of the table, in the summer season."
(This is specially interesting as showing how early Americans learned the use of ice, which England has yet to learn.)
Mr. Sutcliff returned to England and brought over his family, but lived only a short time to enjoy America.
The visit of Louis Philippe (late King of France) and his two brothers to this locality naturally was a notable event. It is an his- torical fact that the French Directory made certain advances to the Duchess of Orleans on condition that she would induce her oldest son (Louis Philippe) to leave the country. The prince sailed Septem- ber 24, 1796, in the ship America, Captain Ewing, direct to Philadel- phia, where he was soon joined by his brothers, who were released from prison to join him. It is supposed that Robert Morris furnished the funds for their travels. After spending a winter in Philadelphia, and visiting Washington at Mount Vernon, they traveled through the country by circuitous route to Niagara Falls. Thence they took the bridle-path or old Indian trail leading through the forests to Tioga Point. It is told by Cass in his book, "France, Its King and People," that they met near Canandaigua Alexander Baring (afterwards Lord Ashburton), whose acquaintance they had lately made in Philadelphia. He told them "that he had left an almost impassable road behind him, and the King answered by the comfortable assurance that Mr. Baring would find no better one before him." Arriving at Geneva, they de- cided to ascend Seneca Lake in a boat. At its head they shouldered their packs, and came to Newtown (Elmira) on foot, bringing letters of introduction from the son of Robert Morris, Thomas Morris of Canandaigua, to Henry Towar. They lodged for some days at the tavern of Mrs. Seely, while Mr. Towar fitted up a Durham boat in which they descended the Chemung to Tioga Point, where they stopped over night, lodging according to tradition at Doctor Hopkins, ( for, while the Doctor did not keep a tavern until 1802, he often entertained distinguished travelers ; doubtless because his extensive practice made him well known from Palmyra, N. Y., to Wilkes-Barré). Thence they went down the Susquehanna to the French settlement at Asylum, thence to Wilkes-Barré, where they were entertained in royal fashion by Mat- thias Hollenback, and thence to Philadelphia. August 14, 1797, the Duc de Montpensier wrote to his sister thus describing their journey :
"It took us four months-we travelled a thousand leagues, which we per- formed partly by water, partly on foot, partly on hired horses, and partly in the stage or public conveyance. We have seen many Indians, and remained several days in their country. To give you an idea of the agreeable manner in which
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they travel in this country I will tell you that we passed fourteen nights in the woods, devoured by all kinds of insects, after being wet to the bone, without being able to dry ourselves, and eating pork, and sometimes a little salt beef and corn bread."
In spite of their vicissitudes, the royalties carried princely gear, for at Wilkes-Barré one of them is reported by Mrs. Alexander, step- daughter of Matthias Hollenback, to have been dressed in an entire suit of white satin, with ruffles of exquisite lace in his sleeves. What a stir it must have made in every hamlet where they rested; for, de- spite their fallen fortunes, they were princes still.
Joseph Bonaparte was also in this vicinity; it is even related he remained long enough to become enamored of a young lady in To- wanda. At a much later date his wife came twice to Tioga Point, trav- eling in great state in her own coach and four with outriders, all the way from Baltimore. She was the guest of Mrs. Abner Murray, 2nd, of whom she was very fond. Mrs. Murray, by a previous marriage to a man connected with the Patterson family, had lived in Baltimore, and become a favorite of Madame Bonaparte, hence the visits, which doubt- less also extended to her nearer relative, Mrs. Elizabeth Patterson (Saltmarsh) ; though there is no positive record of this, as of the visits to Mrs. Murray.
One other distinguished visitor doubtless honored Tioga Point, though we have no journal from which to quote. Talleyrand, the world famous Frenchman, visited Asylum, and the French settlement on the Chenango in 1795, and we assume he rested here. One of the young Frenchmen of Asylum, Louis Paul d'Autremont, accompanied him on his return to France as private secretary. There is little ques- tion but that Louis observed this locality, as July, 1798, in a letter to his mother, living in Asylum, he thus writes :
"If my brother has an opportunity in passing upon the Susquehanna to see the fine farm at the junction of the Tioga, that was formerly for sale, let him enquire the conditions. The farm is most beautifully situated, and is called Queen Esther's Flats."
It is easy to see from all these transcripts that this valley was early admired by every passerby, to whom it became familiar because on the only known route from Niagara direct to Philadelphia.
PART II THE CONNECTICUT CLAIM 1754-1798
At this epoch, the history of the settlement of Tioga Point needs to be considered from three separate standpoints; that of the Pennsylvania claim- ants, that of the Connecticut claimants, and that of the carefully concealed history due to the strife between these two parties. It is quite amazing to discover how little of the last, and one may well say also of the first, has been unravelled. After the lapse of more than a century, it is well nigh impossible to gather up all the fragments, though there are always new bits coming to light in unexpected places. Careful study of old letters, Mss., and archives fails to reveal the underlying motives of many actions, or the full plan of procedure. Desiring to make a plain record, after years of research, we find as many miss- ing links still as in the early Indian history. Yet every new discovery proves that, call it what you will, Te-a-o-ga, Diahoga, Tioga Point, Old Tiog' Pint, or just the Pint, this town was ever well known and even famous with the Indian, the soldier, the traveler and the pioneer. It is only since it was permanently, or let us say officially, saddled with the name of Athens, that it seems to have sunk into comparative insignificance, overshadowed by its ambitious sister towns of more hasty growth. Our original purpose was to give the history of Tioga Point and her neighbors, whose interests were all closely connected in early times. But the wealth of unexpected material has led to a decision to consider the neighbors only as accessory to a full comprehension of Tioga Point history. Otherwise the work must needs run into several volumes.
The attempt to combine the events as viewed from the three standpoints will doubtless provoke sharp criticism from those who have not struggled with the vexing problems of the times.
CHAPTER XIII THE GENERAL LAND CONTROVERSY
A Few Outlines, Queries, Answers and Reflections
It is impossible to understand the history of Tioga Point and vicin- ity without some knowledge of the great land controversy between Connecticut and Pennsylvania. We therefore beg our readers, even the youngest, not to "skip this chapter because its heading sounds prosy." The late Hon. Stanley Woodward, of Wilkes-Barré, said of this sub- ject (address before the Wyoming Historical Society), "The struggle between the Connecticut colonists and the representatives of William Penn, from a present point of view, is unique, and should be interest- ing. To comprehend it accurately requires a review of certain histor- ical facts and conditions which underlie the epoch, and disclose its true character."
While it is now well nigh impossible to understand fully the fierce controversies of the pioneer settlers, yet it is wise to attempt to fathom their most serious problems. For it was their struggle for existence that not only won for their posterity this fair heritage, but that made the best of us the people that we are.
The Connecticut pioneers were progressive Puritans; sagacious, efficient, pertinacious, heroic. The Pennsylvanians were of different nationalities and sects; Quakers, Dutch, German, Scotch-Irish; with different characteristics ; all excellent, but, in most cases, antagonistic to the "Yankee"; for various reasons.
There appears to be to-day so little definite knowledge of this great controversy, that it would seem wise to introduce into the course of study in our public schools, a concise and lucid explanation. At the time, the country was flooded with literature on the subject, and that too in a day when literature was scarce; yet there were pamphlets, books and many newspaper articles devoted to it. It is curious that the greater part of the publications were solely from the Connecticut point of view. It has even been said that an impartial view could not be taken. But it is our ambition as a descendant of Connecticut stock, and at the same time of one of the first Pennsylvania claimants on Tioga Point, to present the subject, not only so clearly that it will be read and understood by the present, and the rising generation; but so that no one can accuse us of partisanship. Every available source of information has been consulted ; and, after careful consideration of the matter, we feel moved to adopt the sentiment of Upham, the biographer of Timothy Pickering,1 who says, "Upon balancing the facts and evi- dence, we are brought, not to the conclusion usually the result of a fair
1 That able Pennsylvanian (of Connecticut stock) of whom Fisher says, "Pickering represented Pennsylvania, and the sober second thought of her decent people." There is little question but that Pickering, with his ability and sound common sense, was the greatest factor in the final settlement of controversy.
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consideration of the whole subject in like cases, that both parties were in the wrong, but that both were substantially in the right." (Vol. II, p. 228.)
For exhaustive treatment the reader is referred to Harvey's "His- tory of Wilkes-Barre." For briefer, yet fair-minded accounts, the "Brief of the Seventeen Townships," written in 1879, for the Historical Society of Pennsylvania by the late Henry M. Hoyt (including an ex- cellent bibliography). Also the chapter in Fisher's "Making of Penn- sylvania," entitled "The Connecticut Invasion." Much space must be given in the history of Tioga Point to the local controversy ; therefore, the general topic will be presented in the form of queries and answers, available for quick reference on any given point. This idea is derived from an old Mss. in the handwriting of our own John Franklin.
How many, even of our oldest residents, can answer the following questions ?
I. What was the territory claimed by Connecticut ?
II. What were the boundaries designated in the charters granted by King Charles to Connecticut colonists, and to William Penn.
III. What was the Susquehanna Company ?
IV. What is meant by the "Indian Purchases"?
V. What were the Seventeen Townships, and where located ?
VI. What were the Pennamite Wars?
VII. What was the Decree of Trenton ?
VIII. What was the Confirming Act?
IX. How were the different rights designated ?
X. What was the Intrusion Law?
XI. What was the Compromise Act, and its consequences ?
XII. When did the controversy finally close ?
We will answer these queries as briefly as possible, repeating each with the answer :
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