USA > Pennsylvania > Bradford County > Athens > A history of old Tioga Point and early Athens, Pennsylvania > Part 72
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Ferries and Bridges.
There were no bridges in pioneer days, but innumerable ferries. The Assembly fixed the rates and legislated as to their maintenance ; and sometimes the Penns claimed an interest, gave licenses and converted them into monopolies. The first ferry at Tioga Point was Moore's, across the Susquehanna, just below the Island, opened in 1785, later known as Park's. Elisha Satterlee gave name to the next, which he established in 1790 between his home and the foot of Ferry Street. There is no record of first use of the one across the Chemung, just above present bridge, but it was very early. In 1794 Nehemiah North- rup, a settler on land now H. Baldwin's farm, opened a ferry farther south than Moore's, from his land to the Point, which became the pop- ular ferry for Sheshequin people.6
In time the Legislature established regulations for erecting bridges. If any individual was willing to embark in the enterprise the law allowed him all the receipts, and a so-called "Bridge Company" likewise. The first bridge over the Chemung was built in 1820 by a stock company, but it had been under consideration for ten years, as shown by annexed extracts from letters of Henry Welles, when member of Legislature, and by David Paine to him, eight years later:
"Lancaster. Feb. 15, 1810. Overton and Cash have been here with the projects for the road and bridge * * * there will be no great difficulty in getting the neces- sary acts passed here-the job is at Tioga-I am doubtful whether any one would subscribe to bridge erection, perhaps a year or two may bring it about * the people are very careless or have much reliance in their representatives, to ask for a Bridge constitution which ties them up to certain defined terms, without even men- tioning what terms they want-what prices shall be fixed for crossing over it when built * however I will get as nigh right as I can-its a very desirable object."
6 Miss Polly Lowe, ninety-three years old, says Northrup's ferry was still in operation when she was a young girl. That they had a veritable fleet of boats of different sizes for horse and foot passengers, that they were poled or rowed across the river, no wire or windlass as nowadays; that Nehemiah was a fine man, and that "his sons did swear awfully when they were ferrying you over." Aunt Polly lived in Sheshequin, and remembers well the various boats for freight, "some covered and some not;" also the steamboats and the first carriage of coal up the river. She adds, "father was a blacksmith, and before Barclay coal was known he used to drive across the country to Blossburg to get coal to use in his smithy; and also when mother wanted to do a big baking she borrowed some of father's coal to help along the fire." Showing that no doubt it was the wives of the blacksmiths who first learned the value of coal as a cooking fuel.
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1818. "I have something to say about our bridge, I find by examining Bridge Law, by which we are to be governed that we were under obligations to com- mence procedure within three years from passage of the law, and to finish the Bridge within seven years. Now more than three years have expired since passage of the law, therefore, unless obtaining subscribers for stock be considered a com- mencement, the privileges are forfeited, and we have no control over subscriptions already obtained. As this is an important matter do ascertain legal opinions rela- tive thereto. Our boasting Doctor's $2500. has dwindled away to-O-he is therefore secretly desirous the bridge shall not be built at all * * * Satterlee talks boastingly, but neglects to do, * * * and A. Murray is a very poor man-you know-'Tis therefore Jno. Spalding has engaged to promote the matter, and obtain subscribers to the stock. He will subscribe $1000, thinks he can obtain one or two thousands more provided the bridge shall be built down opposite his premises. I understand that you would do something more provided it was built below than for the upper place. If we can control stock already subscribed, there is little doubt we may accomplish the object, by building it at the lower place. You will therefore see the propriety of having the law extended, that we may retain the power of benefitting by it, as circumstances may justify."-D. Paine.
The bridge, when built, must have been a flimsy affair, as it went out in a flood in 1833 and was rebuilt in 1836. It was then a covered bridge, with wooden piers. Rufus Wright was the earliest toll keeper of whom we have record. But the one best remembered after him was the genial Welshman, William Parry, who knew everybody passing, and their business.
The old bridge and turnpike seals were found among the papers of Clement Paine.
WILLIAM PARRY
In 1827 a company was incorporated by act of Legislature to erect a bridge over the Susquehanna at or near Athens. Commissioners were appointed (Charles Comstock, John Spalding 2nd and Samuel Ovenshire) to procure subscriptions, etc. Nothing was done for ten years, when the matter was brought to an issue by the energy and means of Scotch Thompson.
The next bridge to be built in the township was the one now known as "Tozer's Bridge," over the Chemung, also built by a stock company about 1836, called the "Athens Farmers' Association Bridge," capital stock $3500. The bridge over the Susquehanna was built in 1841. Richard or "Dick" Durbin, as he was familiarly called, and William Bishop were contractors. James Wilson was one of the workers on this bridge, and shortly before its completion had the misfortune to fall from a girder and break his leg. Compensation was granted for this injury by installing "Jim" as toll keeper before the structure was finished. This position he held for two or three months, being allowed to pocket the tolls.
While the wooden piers have been replaced by stone, and the bridge repaired, until doubtless little of the original work remains, in appear- ance it is the same as when first built. The street leading to this bridge was first opened at this time, 1842, the land being given therefor by the "Athens Bridge Company," Judge Herrick and Thos. R. Davies.
To return to the development of the highways, the first road to and through this settlement was that constructed by General Sullivan's
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FIRST PUBLIC ROADS
THE OLD SUSQUEHANNA BRIDGE Photographed by Miss Laing, 1898
army, very much the same as the road now leading from the Stone House directly up Main Street, which street is as Jenkins surveyed it in 1786.
The first public road coming from the south was a tolerable wagon road from Wysox to Tioga Point, built in 1789. The court was peti- tioned to establish the same, which was done in 1794, as "the Old Stage Road."7 Previous to this, however, were the so-called
"Observations of the Road Committee on the Utility and Importance of the Roads proposed to be Laid Open in Northampton and Luzerne,"
found in Pennsylvania Archives, third series, Vol. XVIII, which sug- gested that a road to Tioga Point would help to quell disorders, open new lands, and by giving an opportunity for grazing lands, provide suffi- cient beef, and thus avoid importation from Ireland. This report is worthy of perusal. Walker says:
"In 1792 the road east of the Susquehanna was laid out from Col. Satterlee's to the State Line. In 1809 from Satterlee's to Moses Park's. In 1812 from Sheshe- quin to the Point via Northrup and Park (or Moore) ferries. In 1813 from Mur- ray Creek bridge to Colonel Tozer's (now known as the Chemung Narrows). In
7 After writing found this record: "We the subscribers being appointed a Committee by the Court of Quarter Sessions, within and for the County of Luzerne, on the first Tuesday of June 1789 to Lay out a road not exceeding fifty feet wide from Wysox Creek to Tioga Point, have, according to the power given us, viewed and Laid out a Road according to the following courses, (viz) beginning at the fording place at Wysox Creek and extending to Col. Holenback's Store.
"A Return of the Sheshikwonock Road.
SIMON SPALDING OBADIAH GORE REUBIN HERRINTON
Committee."
JEHIAL FRANKLIN JOHN FULLER SAMUEL WYBURN
Also, "In 1799 a road was reported to begin at Col. Elisha Satterlee's, and thence entirely over the high land to the Forks of the Wyalusing."
These roads were very different from those of to-day, full of rocks and stumps; fording the streams, unless a rude bridge was constructed of round or split logs laid on string pieces; and the sloughs and marshes laid in corduroy, that is logs laid close together.
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OLD TIOGA POINT AND EARLY ATHENS
1814 Paine Street and Satterlee Creek road (now Ferry Street). In 1821 road up Murray Creek. In 1821 Athens to State line. In 1831 Elmira Street from Athens to State Line."
Walker omits several important roads and turnpikes. In 1821 Zephon Flower and W. D. Bacon were appointed to survey a road west- erly. This road began, so they reported, one mile below Athens (no doubt at Greene's Landing), thence across Smithfield and Columbia, to Tioga County. Earlier still, about 1817, was constructed a road from Berwick to Newtown by an incorporated company called the Susque- hanna and Tioga Turnpike Company,8 though the road was always popularly called the "Berwick Turnpike." While this turnpike did not touch Tioga Point directly, over it came swarms of settlers for this region. That this turnpike was under consideration for many years is shown by old letters. When Henry Welles was in the Legislature, in 1810, he wrote to R. Caton :
"I went to Philadelphia in Jan. for the purpose of trying to get the route of Berwick road changed, so that it may come round by the Point, and have suc- ceeded on condition that the inhabitants about there should make the road from Towanda to the line, which will cost from eleven to twelve thousand dollars. This they have agreed to do, and have subscribed $8000, so I have sanguine hopes. I think it will be extended to Cayuga Lake, and be a very useful road."
This project failed, the road eventually being built through Smith- field and Ridgeberry, some miles west of the Point.9
"About this time a turnpike mania seemed to seize the people; the Susque- hanna and Tioga Turnpike was constructed at enormous expense to the state and individual stockholders, but the stock became valueless and the road was aban- doned."-Pearce's Annals.
The "Genesee" road antedated the Berwick. About 1800 the rich valley of the Genesee River, opened for settlement, became the popular rage. To accommodate the great tide of travel and develop their own section, parties living above Muncy opened the Genesee road from Muncy to Towanda Creek, where it intersected the State road leading through Tioga Point. Hordes of emigrants from Maryland, Virginia and southern Pennsylvania passed this route, often 30 wagons (mostly Conestogas) bivouacking at a given point over night. The Berwick turnpike diverted travel from the Genesee road, parts of it were ab- sorbed into township roads, or abandoned, and to-day little or no trace of it is found.
8 Halsey describes the origin of turnpikes. The demand for roads about 1800 was far greater than authorities could satisfy, therefore charters were granted to so-called "turnpike companies" of men who built and maintained roads for the privilege of imposing tolls. Wealthy land owners were naturally willing to invest in order to have their lands made accessible. Little grading was done, as travelers knew to their sorrow, primitive "tote roads" being often con- verted into toll roads with little labor, as the one from Wattles Ferry to Catskill, which became a great highway, much used by the people of Tioga Point. (From "Old New York Frontier.")
9 When the Berwick turnpike was under consideration a letter was written from Smith- field to Rowland Langford, Tyningham, Mass., which reads as follows: "I have bought a lot for you-I expect this will be a country of business. We have commissioners from the citty of Philadelphia a laying out a turnpike road to Buffalo. * * * If possible you must not fail of coming in this fall .- I think you can come here cheaper in a waggon than any other way, you can pay a great many expenses with nails,-if the turnpike goes through there will be a great deal of building in this town. * * * I will give you some directions where to inquire for. After you have crossed Hudson river get onto the Catskill turnpike, and keep that till you get to the Susquehannah river, then go to chenango point, then to tioga point, then to Smithfield so no more at present.
WILLIAM NICHOL.
"P. S. We have just received a letter from the turnpike viewers that it will be estab- lished on the line that goes across my farm."
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TURNPIKES AND TOLL GATES
John 8am gordon Another turnpike, of even greater importance, was the Cayuga and Susquehanna Turnpike. In 1812 the Legislature of New York in- corporated a company to build "a good and sufficient road to begin at or near the head of Cayuga Lake, thence south to the new courthouse in Tioga County, thence to north line of Pennsylvania at or near Chap- man's mills" (Milltown). Some subscribers, if not the whole company, were Athenians or Pennsylvanians. At a later date John Franklin was president of this company, as seen by certificates in our Museum. The Pennsylvania Legislature advanced $6,000 for building this road. The first toll gate on this turnpike was close to the present power house, above Spring's Cor- ners, and the first gate keeper was John W. Van Gordon. Observe the spelling of the name, now knownas Vangorder.
Over this turnpike there was much traffic both ways. Previous to its completion the window glass for Abner Murray's house, built in 1807, was brought by wagon from Ithaca over a rough road. On the way the wagon upset, and much of the glass was broken. No other could be obtained, and all the broken panes were carefully set in the back windows, to be seen to this day. An interesting petition, signed by various inhabitants of Athens Township, to the Legislature of Penn- sylvania, requests that Shepard's Creek "or Cayuta" may be declared a public highway from its mouth to the State line, since the New York Legislature had declared the rest of it to be such.
There was a great inland trade over this "Ithaca turnpike ;" coal go- ing north, and salt, plaster and grain seed coming south :
"Owing to the embargo of 1812 and 1813 the farmers of interior were unable to procure plaster from the seaboard and were compelled to use New York plaster conveyed in sleds or wagons on the turnpike, or arks on the Susquehanna."- Pearce.
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OLD TIOGA POINT AND EARLY ATHENS
Post Routes and Stage Coaches.
The method of transportation that should next engage attention is the old-fashioned stage, carrying both mail and passengers. Mrs. Perkins, in "Early Times," gives a pretty full account of these, so we will only supplement it.
During the first session of the Sixth Congress, April 23, 1800, the first post road in this region was established, viz .: "From Wilkes-Barre by Wyalusing to Athens," also from Athens by Newtown, Painted Post and Bath to Canandaigua. On this route two post offices were estab- lished in this county, Wyalusing and Athens ; Mowbrey and Peck were mail carriers ; they traveled on foot once in two weeks. Evidently next came Bart Seely on horseback. In 1810 Conrad Teeter10 contracted with the Government to carry mail once a week from Sunbury to Painted Post via Athens. The Sixth Congress also established a mail route from the Hudson "by way of Kaatskill to Owego and Tioga Point." This was certainly a great advance for the whole region. Conrad Teeter was as enterprising as he was jovial. Beginning with a small one-horse wagon, he soon had a team, and by 1816 a four-horse conveyance, though from the start he always spoke of his "coach and four." He always reined up with a crack of the whip and a cheery salutation to the waiting crowd, eager for news. It is but a few months since we were told a story of this stage driver, which had been transmitted by word of mouth through five generations-for a hundred years!
The first stage at Owego was a three-horse lumber wagon with hickory poles bent to form a top, covered with canvas. In 1816 the stage route from Owego to Bath was opened, which ran twice a week by Athens, where it was advertised passengers would breakfast both ways, presumably at "Saltmarsh's public" (still standing at corner of Main and Tioga) ; as the advertisement says :
"Apply for seats at Saltmarsh's. Persons travelling from New York, or any of the Eastern states to the S. W. states will find this the shortest, cheapest, and most expeditious route. Good teams, careful drivers, good stage houses promised."
In the later days of stage coaching passengers often got out and walked across "the loop" at Factoryville, while the stage ran to Tioga Point. In our personal recollection the stages ran from the Erie road at Waverly to Towanda for some years, just previous to 1860. We well remember the great lumbering vehicle, painted red, with its win- dows, trunk rack behind, and, in pleasant weather, highly coveted seats with the driver. John Beaman was the last stage driver, a man as jovial and well to be remembered as the first driver, Conrad Teeter. The last stopping place of the stage in Athens was at the Exchange Hotel, and its arrival semi-daily was an event of great interest to the inquisitive landlord, and to the children across the way. Many of our best known
10 Conrad Teeter was a large, fat man of jovial disposition, and desirous of making a favorable impression on strangers. He drove his own stage. He took pleasure in pointing out his farms to the passengers, frequently claiming the finest ones along the way. If asked why he drove stage, would reply that he loved to rein four horses and drive, but had no taste for farming. There was certainly an exhilaration in seeing those great four-horse coaches rolling into town; the driver, proud of his steeds and proud of his skill, cracking his long whip, and sometimes blowing his horn. In those days the driver was an important personage, famed for his knowledge of people and places, and his fund of good yarns. As a repository of local history he was and is unequalled.
531
THE NORTH BRANCH CANAL
early inhabitants came in connection with the post routes,11 viz .: the Saltmarshes, Justin Forbes and Ebenezer Backus. The Saltmarsh brothers ran the first stage to Ithaca, whither the route was extended from Wilkes-Barré in 1820. The lake regions were most anxious to be connected with the "post towns." "One could travel by stage to New York via Newburgh, a three days' painful journey"; and lines of coaches of excellent type were early established by parties in Elmira and Owego, Concord coaches and gaily caparisoned horses replacing the rude Jersey wagon of earlier days.
Our consideration of transportation would hardly be complete with- out some mention of the introduction and evolution of the carriage. The heavy ox-cart was followed by the gig, an almost springless two-wheeled vehicle much more an object of curiosity in 1860 than now, when it has been made familiar to us all in the two-wheeled cart. This was fol- lowed by the chaise or "shay." The first of these brought into the valley was by Col. Joseph Kingsbery at Sheshequin; it greatly excited the envy of his neighbors, who scornfully said, "The rich can ride in chaises, etc."! Elisha Ely, father of Mrs. Abner Murray, 2nd, brought the first one to Owego. The carryall and Concord were the roomy family con- veyances of later days.
The North Branch Canal.
The State of New York, under the wise administration of DeWitt Clinton, was the first to commence the great plan of "Internal Communi- cation," but Pennsylvania was a close second. The completion of the Erie Canal, "that important work which the eye of Washington foresaw and the talents of Clinton completed," gave an impulse to "the great cause of Internal Improvements." The Erie Canal opened up such com- mercial possibilities that Philadelphia capitalists were anxious to have a canal system for Pennsylvania. Commissioners were appointed by Legislature in 1824 to examine routes along the Susquehanna, anticipat- ing a canal to the lake country. In 1825 meetings were held at various points, previous to the canal convention at Harrisburg, to discuss the subject and appoint delegates. Thanks to Mr. Herrick, extracts are here given from a letter hitherto unknown even to the family of the writer, which at the present day seems amusingly interesting. February 16, 1825, C. F. Welles, Sr., writes to his brother that he has been asked "to go to the Senate next fall," and mentions as a special inducement :
"A desire to make myself strong in the county by leading the Canal Fever (which you will snuff at) and I have made a fair beginning. You will see our proceedings. Herrick chn. Kingsbery and Welles! Secretaries. K-y has been trying to ride this horse, but is unhorsed. He talked a good deal about the Ale- ghany Coal (that we have nothing to do with) * * he was on the off track & every body was disgusted. I took the smooth and pleasant course * * * made a round set speech of half an hour, (greatly to my own surprise) to a very attentive audience. My maiden speech. My subject was the entire deficiency of Good iron throughout New York, Vermont, Canada & Ohio (the Canal World). The su- periority of Pennsylvania rock ore, of which we are finding numerous bodies in this county near Towanda. The entire deficiency of mineral coal throughout New
11 In 1814 Samuel Ovenshire and Nathaniel Flower were appointed to carry mail from Athens to Newburgh, N. Y., via Ithaca, one round trip a week. The trip was made on horse back for three years, the men alternating. - The money thus earned is said to have been the foundation of their fortunes.
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OLD TIOGA POINT AND EARLY ATHENS
York, Vermont & the whole region of the Lakes, & the geological reasons upon which it is concluded that none exists in that vast range of country. The cer- tainty that America must manufacture. The probability that the West District of New York would manufacture for herself & the whole range of Lake Countries & Canada, (when severed from G. Britain) The certainty that the W. D. of N. Y. could do this at a secure advantage if she possessed coal at cheap rates when sur- rounding countries have it not. The certainty that at a very short period that country thro' manufactures etc. would possess a dense population like Europe. The certainty that natural supplies of wood must soon fail in a fertile & popu- lous country. The fact that coal is more advantageous than wood for Arts & Manufactures even when wood is abundant. The fact that the coal of Towanda is the nearest body that the W. Dist can reach. That the iron of Towanda is the nearest of good quality also. And finally that from these facts the Towanda Iron Ore may be brought to immediate value, & that the Coal would when produceable upon the Cayuga sell to the extent of 1000 tons & that the demand would increase until it would become sufficient to remove the Towanda mountains. It now sells for $8 & 11 per ton tho' the credit of it has been hurt by some knaves who sold the coal slate to the Ithacans. The immediate sale for smiths on the lake and canal is estimated as certain at 1000 tons for the first year. Out of all these matters I made a set speech * & hope you will think there is really enough in it to pre- vent throwing cold water on the plan at Harrisburg-as enemies are eager to say that you will. All N Y (west of Cayuga) are for the Newtown route, it is certain that one will be opened & surely you will not injure the prospects of the route that leads to Tioga Point * * * Dewitt Clinton has said that he will personally examine the route next summer and we intend to invite him to examine the Towanda coal mines, and the track for an extension of the canal from State line to the mouth of Shrader branch 18 miles from Tioga Point. The Coal Mine Canal is my project & I am glad to see that H-k & K-y shake their heads at it
* they dont see the length of their noses."
The enthusiastic young man did not receive the nomination, but was in attendance at Harrisburg when "the Great Canal Bill" was passed. To-day little is known of "Towanda Iron Ore;" and Barclay coal is not so highly prized. An effort was made at this time to have a canal from Tioga Point to Cayuga Lake.
"The Pennsylvania Canal Convention" was held at Harrisburg August 4-5-6, 1825, with delegates from each county ; Judge Herrick, of Athens, represented Bradford. The canal system was decided to be a necessary improvement, and a beneficial investment for state resources. It was urged that all local projects ought to yield to this, and the people were earnestly recommended to direct their attention to this important subject before the next meeting of the Legislature.12 In accordance with these resolutions, a "general improvement act" was passed, pro- viding for a great canal system at a cost of $40,000,000. Work was be- gun in 1827; the North Branch, from Nanticoke to the State line, was left to the last. State agents came through this locality, however, in 1827, and obtained many releases for right-of-way.13 Chief Engineer
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