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Day & Haghe Luth + + the Queen
'SWAHL NOLSAGE ZO KLID
London J Murray. Albemarle St 1844
TEXAS
AND
THE GULF OF MEXICO; OR
YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD :
RY
MRS. HOUSTOUN.
WITH PORTRAITS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1844.
PRINTED BY W. NICOL, 60, PALL MALL ..
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Lighthouse at the entrance of the Mississippi.
Winter scenery of its banks. Extreme cold. Visit to the shore. Venomous snake. Ran on board by a steamer. Arrival at New Orleans. Amusement of the inhabitants 1
CHAPTER II.
Florida Indians. Their habits. Party of priso- ners. The chief, " Tiger-Tail" 23
CHAPTER III.
Public carriages. Negro slaves. Their habits and customs. Absence of religious feelings and ob- servance at New Orleans. Favourite sports. Stoppage of a bank. American crimps. Me- thodical habits of the citizens. Commerce of New Orleans ,
37
iv
CHAPTER IV.
PAGE
Mr. Clay, the popular orator. General remarks on American society and manners. Departure from New Orleans 64
CHAPTER V.
Second arrival at Galveston. Texan news. The Ellen Frankland steamer's voyage up the Trinity river. Its importance. State of commerce. Capacity of Galveston harbour. False accounts of crime in Texas. Fortune-getting propensity 88
CHAPTER VI.
Sufferings of emigrants. Texas an advantageous field for settlers. Climate. Productions of the Country. Disadvantages . 112
CHAPTER VII.
Patience and perseverance indispensable to a settler in a new Country. Story of a young emigrant's sufferings . 126
CHAPTER VIII.
Abundance of game. Severe northers peculiar to the Gulf of Mexico. Gradual encroachment of
V
PAGE
land upon the sea. Heavy swell on the bar. Different classes of titles to land. Texas peculi- arly adapted for breeding stock . 145
CHAPTER IX.
History and character of General Houston, Presi- dent of Texas. Run for the Presidency. Whit- tling. Discomfort of travelling in Texas . 161
CHAPTER X.
Commencement of an excursion up the Country. The Houston steamer. Her passengers. The town of Houston. Tavern fare at Houston. Start for the Prairie . 178
CHAPTER XI.
Scenery of the Prairie. Free and easy manners of the innkeeper's son. Indians of the Lipan tribe. Letter of condolence to the Lipans on the death of their chief . 193
CHAPTER XII.
Dangers of travelling in the Prairie. Last evening at Houston. Severe frost. Return from Hous- ton to Galveston. The Opossum. Political con- ferences and discussion on the slave-trade. Slave-owners sufferers by its continuance . 204
vi
CHAPTER XIII.
PAGE
Character of the Negro slave. Probability of free- dom being granted by the Whites. The tariff. A city in embryo. Return to the Yacht . 224
CHAPTER XIV.
Severe norther. The rattlesnake, &c. Humming birds. Summary mode of ejecting abolitionists from Galveston. National Guard. Burying ground. Texan duel. Facility of obtaining a divorce. Agreeable present on the last day of our stay. Good wishes to the Republic . 236
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from Galveston for Havana. Severe gale. Appearance of the sea under its influ- ence. Dangerous navigation of the Gulf of Florida. Incidents on board the Yacht. Ar- rival at Havana. Moro Castle. The bay. Visit of the Spanish authorities. Dinner on shore at the Consul-General's. Heat of the climate. Manners, habits, and amusements of the Ladies. Visit to the Captain General Valdez 259
CHAPTER XVI.
Historical notice of Cuba. Commerce. Cruel
vii
PAGE
treatment of slaves. Creoles. Revolt of the Matanzas. Anticipated revolt of the black po- pulation. Exclusive state of society. " Sugar Counts." Animals, birds, noxious insects, and reptiles. Rail-road. Copper, silver, and coal mines. Splendid scenery. Cuba indebted for its prosperity to Viceroy Tacon. Plaza de To- ros. The Cathedral . 287
CHAPTER XVII.
Magnificence of private houses. Ceremonies of the Holy Week. Entrance of H. M. Ship the Illustrious, Admiral Sir Charles Adam. High price of provisions. Fruits. High rents. Good Friday. Religious procession. Protestant or- dinances strictly forbidden. Race-course. Death of poor Nanny. Theatre of Tacon. Dance on board the flag-ship. Our last evening at Ha- vana . 303
CHAPTER XVIII.
Departure from Havana. " Mother Carey's Chickens." Cupid, Psyche, and Pedro. Ber- muda, St. George's harbour. Hamilton. Ber- mudian population. Staple commodities. Whale fishing. Delightful gardens. Visit to the Bishop of Newfoundland. The sea grape. "The Pride
viii
PAGE
of India." Ireland harbour. The last home of " the United Service." Departure for England 329
CHAPTER XIX.
The Azores. Terceira. Appearance of Fayal from the sea. Scilly Islands. Eddystone Light- house. Portland. The North Foreland. Con- clusion. . 355
ILLUSTRATIONS.
City of Houston . to face the title-page.
New Orleans black dandy page 40
President Houston . 166
Havana Harbour
. 271
Plaza des Armas, Havana
. 284
CHAPTER I.
LIGHTHOUSE AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
WINTER SCENERY OF ITS BANKS. EXTREME COLD. VISIT TO THE SHORE. VENOMOUS SNAKE. RAN ON BOARD BY A STEAMER. ARRIVAL AT NEW ORLEANS. AMUSEMENT OF THE INHABITANTS.
Old Ocean was,
Infinity of ages ere we breathed
Existence - and he will be beautiful
When all the living world that sees him now Shall roll unconscious dust around the sun.
CAMPBELL.
Unheeded falls along the flood Thy desolate and aged tree.
IDEM. JANUARY 29th. The land was sighted ahead, and in the afternoon we received the Pilot on board. The weather was fine and quiet, with occasional light airs. The pilot told us that the yacht would have to cut her way through several feet of mud, and VOL. II. B
2
every stitch of canvass was crowded on the vessel to enable her to dash bravely through, when she should arrive at the shallow part of the water. We were not long kept in anxiety, for though we perceived no change in her usual smooth and even course through the water, the schooner was slip- ping gently and safely through the soft mud. At one moment, however, (and that at the shallowest spot) she scarcely seemed to move, and we began to fancy she was fixed, and might remain - as the Yankees say, " from January to eternity." A few seconds put us out of our suspense, for a puff of wind suddenly arose, and carried us in safe- ty into deep water.
I have forgotten to mention a lighthouse, which we left behind us at the south-west pass ; and I must revert to it here, as there is rather a singular story attached to it.
3
The situation is I think a precarious one, at least it has the appearance of being so, the lighthouse having been erected on a sedgy bank formed by an accumulation of mud and snags. These insecure oozy look- ing lands extend in all directions about the various entrances to the Mississippi, and give it the appearance - I have before re- marked upon - of unhealthy desolation. The lighthouse in question was built by the government of the United States, at a consi- derable expence, as they were aware of the great necessity of such a beacon at the mouth of the river. Soon after the work was completed, an unexpected claim was set up to the land, or rather mud on which the lighthouse had been built. The parties, who thus inopportunely appeared, founded their claim on a title, which was derived from some old Spanish grant. This title
4
they produced, but at the same time they offered to forego their claim for the mode- rate sum of, I think, thirty thousand dollars ! The cause was tried, and to the great an- noyance of the government, it was decided in favour of the new claimants, and the former, rather than remove their lighthouse, con- sented to comply with this exorbitant de- mand. The whole affair is a fine specimen of Yankee cunning, and shrewd lying in wait for the unwary.
Proudly by the woodland deeps Our little gallant schooner sweeps. The song of birds is heard above Tuning their swelling throats to love ; And, with a joyous welcome hailing The bark, with such a white wing sailing. On poising wings the sea birds float And join them with their warning note. But heedless, on the vessel glides, Stemming the fury of the tides, And, like a spirit of the seas Riding on the wintry breeze,
5
Full many a tall ship, creeping on, She passes, 'ere her race is won.
M. C. H.
The two months that had elapsed since we last visited the Mississippi, had worked a great change in the appearance of the woods. The trees, which were before clad in all the beauty of their autumnal verdure, were now bleak, grey, and leafless. It is true that, here and there, an ilex, or some other evergreen, relieved with its rich hues this dismal appearance, but they were but rare, and I continually regretted the change that had taken place. The long hanging moss, that like the grey and venerable beards of some aged patriarch, was pendant from the trees, showed more conspicuously than ever, from the want of leaves, of which it now usurps the place. One could not, as be- fore, be cheated by the beauty of the decay- ing vegetation, into a forgetfulness of the
6
deadly insalubrity of the climate and country. The morasses were now displayed in all their horrors, and one almost shuddered to pass such cradles of pestilence and disease.
The river was much higher than it was during our former visit; the breaking up of the frost, and the consequent melting of the snow in the northern country, had caused it to rise many feet.
The tide was running three or four knots an hour, and it would have required a very strong wind in our favour, to enable us to make head against it. Unluckily for us not a breath of air was blowing, and on this, our second day in the river, - after many at- tempts to progress, which ended in our mak- ing stern way only, we let go the anchor, and determined to go on shore.
The weather was intensely cold, and the water used for washing the decks immedi-
7
ately froze after being dashed over them. A bright sun was shining all the morning, and yet the water remained unthawed throughout the day.
We really could not keep ourselves warm in the yacht, as the state of the decks en- tirely prevented us from taking our usual exercise of pacing up and down the vessel, and we did not at all relish being confined in the cabin, while such a brilliant sun was shining over head. An expedition on shore was, therefore, agreed upon, and the gig was manned. We landed with some little diffi- culty, as the banks are at that spot abrupt and rather steep, at least I thought them so, when I found myself obliged to attempt the ascent.
I soon perceived that I had gained no- thing in warmth by the change from the yacht. Walking I found impossible, the
8
ground was so rough, and sitting still was freezing work. A happy idea at length struck us, viz. that of making a fire on the ground under the trees. We set to work to collect sticks and dried leaves, and soon made a satisfactory heap. This done, we endeavoured to produce a light, by rubbing together two pieces of dried wood - Indian fashion. Do what we would, and strive as we might, we could not succeed, and yet we naturally felt, that half the romance of the situation would be destroyed, by obtain- ing a light in any more artificial manner. At length, however, we gave up the attempt in despair, and were thankful for a lucifer match which the doctor happily had in his pocket. The fire burnt bravely, rushing along the ground over the dead leaves, and warming the whole air to a distance of at least a hundred yards. I was constantly
9
obliged to change my position, as the fierce flames approached, and seemed ready to lick my feet ; but the warmth was quite de- lightful, and I would at any time prefer such a wood-fire to Newcastle coal in the best and most polished of fire-places. Fol- lowing my example, the crew of the gig, who had been wandering listlessly about the woods, made themselves a fire also, and sat round it to warm themselves.
While I was thus employed Mr. Hous- ton amused himself with shooting. There was plenty of rabbits, and they were ea- sily shot ; they were however not worth eating, when cooked. I do not know in what respect they differed from English rabbits, but they neither looked nor tasted the same. Numbers of beautiful birds were flying, and sporting about; their bright plumage being seen to great advantage B II.
10
on the leafless boughs. I thought it grie- vous to shoot them, and when they brought me cardinals, blue-birds, and bright coloured woodpeckers, I felt how much rather I would have seen them glancing about in the bright light, and sunning themselves in the warmth of heaven. They were now stretched life- less and stiff upon the earth, those poor woodland forest minstrels ! never more to sing their joyous songs, or flit about the dancing leaves !
But how still and sombre that primeval forest seemed! Not a sound broke upon the ear, except when the report of the gun reverberated through the woods, and startled the slumbering echoes from their long re- pose.
" Yet wanted not the eye far scope to muse, Nor vistas opened by the wandering stream."
Here and there were blackened stumps, show-
11
ing that the devastating hand of man had been busy there, and had lain low the state- ly trees which had grown in that vast forest for centuries. Around the prostrate forms of the dead giants clung the sad passion flower, and the twining creeper, as though loath to part with the faithful pillar that had been their support in life. The whole surface of the ground was so thickly covered with dried leaves, that it was difficult to make any discovery of the descriptions of plants or herbs, which vegetate under the trees. The monotonous brown of the earth's cover- ing was, however, varied by frequent tufts of the fan-plant ; as it is here called. This graceful plant shoots up its broad fan-like leaves, of the most vivid green, and its pe- culiar shape and hue are calculated to give an appearance of tropical vegetation to the scenery.
12
We had been informed that wild boar and deer, were to be found in the forests in consi- derable numbers ; however we were not for- tunate enough to see any thing of them, and I confess myself rather incredulous as to the fact of their existence in these woods.
My fire had, after the lapse of a couple of hours, burnt low, and we made pre- parations for going on board. On our re- turn to the gig, we perceived the men very busily engaged; so much so, that we came upon them unseen. They had found a small snake, which the warmth of their fire had probably roused from its torpid state, and they were endeavouring to make sure of their prisoner. To effect this, they were trying to tie a piece of rope-yarn round the creature's body. The snake having, as one of the sailors expressed it, " hove off his tail," in the course of his
13
capture, this circumstance considerably in- creased the difficulty of the attempt. Having with great care adjusted the yarn to his satis- faction, the man whose prize it was, deposited the reptile in the crown of his hat. Happily for the poor man, we returned in time to prevent the consequences of his imprudence. The snake was one of a most venomous spe- cies, and we immediately turned thetide of his sufferings by ordering him to be destroyed.
All night we lay at anchor, and the yacht ran no little risk of injury from the vast number of logs and trees, which were floating down the river. Owing to the unu- sually high floods and tides, the stream was at times almost covered by these disagree- able hindrances to our progress. Trees of forest growth and stature, uprooted in their strength, came upon us with resistless force, and it required constant care to pre
14
vent collision, when we were under weigh. A look-out man was always stationed " for- ward," to watch their coming, and to direct the helmsman how to steer. These moving timbers were, however, not so dangerous as the snags, namely, trees, or parts of them, that have a strong hold on the bottom.
Thus sped our time, and a long and ra- ther weary four days it was before we ar- rived at the city. The night before we reached it the yacht underwent a signal misfortune, which certainly occasioned some variety, though of not a particularly agreeable nature. It was the night of the Ist of February, dark, and still, and foggy. A small steamer coming up to the city, hailed us several times, to know if we wanted steam, her commander no doubt conjecturing that we were at anchor, in despair of making further way. The look-
15
out man on deck answered, " No," several times ; upon which the steamer, (as we suppose, out of envy, malice, and hatred) ran on board of us, and did us all the mis- chief in her power. Our fore-topmast was carried away, as well as the larboard whis- ker; and part of the bulwarks on the lar- board bow was stove in. The next morn- ing all hands were employed in clearing away the wreck, which having been done, we made sail, somewhat shorn of our fair proportions.
At one o'clock we arrived again at New Orleans, and lost no time in sending on shore for our much wished for letters. One of Mr. Houston's first occupations was to find out the name of the vessel, which had so signally insulted us, and to demand satisfaction. The steamer proved to be the " Swan," a tug, and her owners found
16
themselves obliged to make good all the damage we had received.
The appearance of the city was now much more gay and cheerful than it had been du- ring our former visit. The carnival had be- gun, and masks were visible in the windows of the stores. The walls were covered with announcements of forthcoming balls, both in the French and English languages. Plays were in great vogue ; and the Parisian taste for horrors was also prevalent here, " La Mansarde de Crime," and such like myste- rious tragedies, I saw announced for con- stant repetition. The streets were much dryer, and the shops - I beg their pardon, the stores, - were more conspicuously and tastefully arranged than in the winter. The spring fashions had already made their appearance ; and ladies, gaily dressed in every colour of the rainbow, - beginning
17
with the parasol, and ending with the shoes, - were promenading the streets in all directions. Indeed, it seemed that in pro- portion as business, owing to the season of the year, had declined, pleasure had risen fifty per cent. There are but two drives in the neighbourhood of New Or- leans -the old and new "Shell Roads." These roads are raised by artificial means several feet above the morass, which almost surrounds the city. They are formed upon piles, and are thickly covered, as their name implies, with small sea shells. From this road, you look down on a swamp on one side, and a canal on the other. Both roads, in the hot season, are described as literally swarming with alligators and musquitoes. Happily for us, the time of the year for these creatures had not yet arrived. Du- ring our stay, I saw but one young alliga-
18
tor, and the musquitoes were not yet brought into light and mischief. Though still, in what we in England call the depth of winter, the vegetation was as forward as it often is in an English May. The tender green of the beach was every where visible, and the buds of the hawthorn were almost visibly bursting forth under the influence of the warm sunshine. Wild flowers, such as prefer moist and watery places, were begin- ning to show their blossoms; and among them I noticed several descriptions of briar, which were very pretty. Birds were wel- coming the spring with their small twit- tering notes, but cheerful as their voices sounded in the still air, we missed the full chorus of our English woodland vocalists. No nightingale
" Winds up his long, long shakes of ecstacy," and no skylark
19
" Pilgrim of the sky"
carolled forth his welcome to the opening year. I missed almost all my old favou- rites ; and was only consoled in their ab- sence by the sound of the cuckoo's
" Twin notes inseparably paired."
His erratic voice was still faithful to the spring !
One of the shell roads leads to the Lake of Pontchartrain. This lake is of salt water, and its shores are low and flat. There is a sort of village on its banks, which is consi- dered and used as a watering place ; and though not more than six miles distant, may be called the Brighton of New Or- leans. Many of the opulent merchants have built villas at Portchartrain, and du- ring the summer months, when business is at a stand-still, they migrate to the shores of the lake, and refresh themselves by ba-
20
thing in its salt waters. New Orleans is thus almost deserted by the rich inhabi- tants during the hot and unhealthy season. It is on Sundays that the Shell Road ought to be visited ; it is then crowded with plea- sure-taking citizens ; not a carriage is left in the streets unhired; and by far the greatest number are filled with negroes. It is quite delightful to see how thoroughly they enjoy themselves. Their happy laugh- ing faces are shining out at the open win- dows, and each carriage is packed as full as it can hold. The slaves are seen grinning, and chattering incessantly, and with a viva- city and excitement unknown to those, of whom Sundays brings not the happy vari- ety of freedom. Another employment of the slaves, on a Sunday, is the bringing in, on their own account, large supplies of the Spanish moss from the country. They
21
collect it from the tall trees in the neigh- bourhood, and it well repays them for the trouble. It is principally used in making beds, and enough for such a purpose may be collected in a few minutes ; it requires but little preparation, and the beds thus made are remarkably comfortable. I have so often described this moss, (Tillandsia Usneodes) that I need not say much more about it. In the neighbourhood of New Orleans it appeared to me particularly thick and long, growing frequently to the length of three or four feet, and almost hiding its parent tree. The effect of set- ting a dead tree on fire, with its clothing of dried moss, is very curious. We tried the experiment once, and the appearance of the flames on the rapidly ignited moss, was beautiful. During one of these Sunday drives, I first saw and admired the asto-
22
nishing pace of the trotting horses in Ame- rica. The Shell Road is remarkably well adapted for showing off their powers, being perfectly flat, and smooth. The carriage used is as light as possible, and looks as if a much less weight than that of a man would break it down. The horse I saw was said to be "a considerable fair traveller, with most particular good bottom." I should, I am afraid, be suspected of an Americanism, did I venture to assert how fast he went ; but the pace struck me with wonder. He passed at a trot, like a flash of lightning ; and it was a fair trot, not a run, or any thing like it. The best and fastest trotter was a Canadian horse. These are gene- rally of a small size, and I fear much cru- elty is used to break them into trotting in this astonishing manner.
CHAPTER II.
FLORIDA INDIANS. THEIR HABITS. PARTY OF PRISO- NERS. THE CHIEF, "TIGER-TAIL."
I travelled among unknown men, In lands beyond the sea.
WORDSWORTH.
And by my side, in battle true, A thousand warriors drew the shaft.
*
* *
I may not stain with grief, The death song of an Indian Chief !
CAMPBELL.
I HAD expected to find every sort of Indian fancy work in plenty at New Orleans, but I was disappointed. There was but little in the stores, and the prices asked were quite unconscionable. For a small hunting pouch, worked with beads, and that not very curiously, the demand
24
was fifty-two dollars ; nearly fourteen pounds ! We often met Indians, both men and women, wandering about the streets : they were scantily clothed, with an old blan- ket wrapped about them for their only co- vering. They were often in a state of in- toxication, (with their long shining black hair falling over their faces) and shivering with cold. The time at which they were most frequently to be seen, was early in the morning, and they generally attended the markets.
During our stay at New Orleans a party of Florida Indians were brought in as prisoners, with their squaws and children. These Indians have for a long time occasi- oned great annoyance, and trouble to the government of the United States. They are naturally fond of war, and, although greatly reduced in numbers, are constantly
25
engaged in hostile insurrections. Who can wonder at the efforts made by these poor, and suffering people to regain possession of their country. Swampy, and unwholesome as that country is, still it was their own, and the Indian tribes are never the first to forget their fatherland.
Some parts of Florida are productive and healthy, but by far the larger portion is wet, and marshy, well calculated certainly for the produce, and increase of snakes, frogs, alligators, gnats, and musquitoes, but not an enviable residence for human beings. In common with the swamps in the neighbour- hood of New Orleans, cedar and cypress grow in the Florida marshes to a prodigious size, as also the live oak, and it is in these swampy forests that the slender remains of the once powerful tribes retreat for shelter from their enemies. That the whole race VOL. II. C
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