USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 2 > Part 10
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12
275
which was lying near, to make enquiries, and to ask if we were the " Charlotte" yacht ? Having replied in the negative, (and it seemed that our advent had caused much speculation among our countrymen,) we thanked Captain Barnett through his envoy for some kind and civil offers, he had made us, and our new acquaintance took his leave. Except the Romney, receiving ship, the Thunder was the only English man-of-war then at Havana. After dinner, a very polite Aidecamp, attended by a Yan- kee interpreter, (very boastful and very lo- quacious,) came to make enquiries after the health of the crew. The surgeon made out his statement that we were all tolerably well and that no immediate anxiety need be felt on our account ; a clean bill of health was therefore given us, and we were graciously allowed the liberty of going on shore. Early
276
the next morning Mr. Houstoun took ad- vantage of the permission and called on Mr. Crawford, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul General, to whom he had letters to deliver, and we had the pleasure of dining at his house the same afternoon.
This was called, the cool season at Ha- vana ; no one complained of heat, indeed some of the old inhabitants pronounced it quite temperate. I could not understand this, for to me it was most oppressive. We had again recourse to our awning, and as one proof among many, that our sen- sations did not deceive us, the fish that was bought alive in the market, at ten in the morning, was in an uneatable state at four o'clock on the same day. How fearful must be the heat during the reign of the yellow fever! The healthy season is said to com- mence in November, and to last till February,
277
so that I fear we had sightly encroached upon the limits of the yellow fever domin- ions. The dews here are remarkably heavy ; the deck early in the evening being quite wet, as though heavy rain had fallen during the day, and drops fell heavily from the masts and rigging. These dews are supposed to be particularly injurious to Europeans, and the latter should be particularly careful not to expose themselves to their influence.
It is the custom at Havana to dine early, and a very sensible custom it is. The ladies remain at home during the heat of the day, lounging over their chocolate and cigars, or taking their accustomed siesta. When the sun has nearly set, their life of move- ment (if such it can be called) begins. Then it is that they enjoy their drives, and pay their visits of ceremony or affection. After dining with the Consul Mrs. Crawford's car-
278
riages conveyed the whole party to drive on the Passeo, the fashionable promenade of the city. Almost the only carriage in use is the Volante, it is a description of vehicle, peculiar I believe to Cuba; and I must, therefore, attempt a description of it for the benefit of those who have not had an oppor- tunity of seeing it. It is in shape not unlike a cabriolet on extremely high wheels ; it is six or seven feet in height, and the wheels are above the head of the occupant. The shafts are extremely long, and the effect is very light and graceful. The volante is driven by a postilion, almost always a black, and his dress is the gayest that can be imagined ; gold and silver are spread with a lavish hand on his person, and red and blue, and every gay and gaudy colour, is chosen for his adornment: the famed Postilion de Longjumeau would sink into
279
obscurity and shabbiness by the side of these black performers. Sometimes a se- cond horse is attached as an outrigger, and has a pretty effect ; this however is not allowed within the precincts of the city. Gentlemen are not often seen with ladies in the volante ; two of the latter generally occupying the only seat which is extremely wide. The rate at which the postillions drive, considering the narrowness of the streets, is surprising. The mules here are more esteemed than the horses; they are many of them beautiful animals ; and I saw some of a cream colour, which I admired ex- tremely. I believe very high prices are given for them; as much as from sixty to two hundred pounds. I was delighted with the appearance both of the ladies and their showy equipages, as they assembled on the Passeo. The volante itself is much ornamented with
230
silver, and the harness is always plated, wherever plating can, by any possibility, be applied. The ladies wear the mantilla, and their costume, in their volantes, consists (as it appeared to me almost de rigueur,) of white muslin décolleté, with short sleeves, and neither gloves nor mittens. Their dark hair is always beautifully shining and well dressed ; their heads are well set on, and at the back hang the elegant folds of the lace mantilla. Every one has something to say of the surpassing beauty of the Spanish women,-their eyes! their figures! their walk ! are all described as something so ex- quisite, that no women, of more northern climes, can venture to compete with them.
I confess I was terribly disappointed by these far-famed beauties. One volante after another rolled by, and not one tolerable face, take it altogether, had I seen. I have
281
no doubt that the extreme heat of the cli- mate, to a certain degree, increases the natural duskiness of their complexions ; certainly, in daylight, they were, I thought, much too yellow to be pleasing. By day- light, however, they are rarely to be seen ; it is at night that they are viewed to advan- tage. They all use rouge, I was told, from early childhood - but their black eyes, which are magnificent, do not require this foreign aid to make them sparkle. I saw some reputed beauties in the morning, and thought them plain ; while at night, I could not believe them to be the same persons, and felt inclined almost to change my opinion I had formed in the morning. The walk of the Spanish women, which is described as being so peculiarly grace- ful, I had little opportunity of seeing. No lady walks at Havana: nor do they
282
even descend from their volantes when on shopping expeditions : naturally indo- lent, this relaxing climate seems to deprive them of the little degree of energy which nature bestows on them. Their accom- plishments are as limited as their sphere of action. They whisk about their large fans with surprising dexterity, and this seems to be one of the principal employments of their lives. They speak a little bad French, do a little indifferent religion, get through a considerable amount of flirtation, and not a little scandal. The evening drive on the Passeo is the grand event of every day; gossip then goes on at a great rate ; every passer-by is scanned and scrutinized ; ap- pointments are made, and reputations are sneered away. Great care is taken during the drive, that the long white drapery should hang out over the step of the volante ;
283
it not being etiquette for the flouncings and embroideries to be gathered within the car- riage. I was warned of this by a young lady with whom I was driving, and who was shocked at seeing me endeavouring to save my gown from dust, and the contact of passing wheels. The Passeo de Tacon was constructed by the governor of that name, and is really a most striking prome- nade ; there being fountains, and statues, and rows of trees, and every thing requisite to make a delightful city drive: on Sundays it is crowded by volantes, both private and hired. Tacon made many improvements in Havana and its neighbourhood. It is a pity that this fine colony should not oftener have wiser heads to direct it, and that a go- vernment better qualified, should not exist in the Mother Country, to choose its viceroy.
284
In the Plaza des Armas, which is a large handsome square opposite the palace of the viceroy, a band of music plays almost nightly. The performance struck me as good ; but the choice of music was not made with good taste, at least the fancy of the Captain-General, who selects the airs, must be a lugubrious one, to judge of the dismal sounds that saluted our ears. The preponderance of brass instruments is much too great, and I was soon glad to escape from the uproar, and refresh myself with an ice at a large café near the Plaza. This cus- tom of eating ices, which are brought to them in their volantes, is a favourite diversion of the Havana ladies; the gentlemen, mean- while, offer their assistance, and are re- warded with smiles, and meaning flicks with the ever ready fan.
On Thursday, Monsieur de C -- and
Day & Haghe Lith " to the Queen
PLAZA DE ARMAS AND VICEROY'S PALACE AT THE HAVANNA .
' London, J Murray Albemarle Street, 1844.
285
Mr. Houstoun dined with the Captain-Ge- neral Valdez, by whom they were received with the greatest kindness and hospitality. It is not etiquette for the Viceroy to re- ceive ladies at dinner, nor is he himself allowed to dine with any individual, let his rank be what it may. I was told that the Viceroy did not at all enjoy the forced monotony of his existence ; he is unmarried, but Madame Olivar, the wife of the Spanish minister at Mexico, is residing with him, and assists in doing the honours of the palace. Though not per- mitted to invite ladies to dine with him, this prohibition does not extend to evening parties, and I attended several soirées there, and was glad to make the acquaintance of Madame Olivar, who is a delightful person. During some of these visits, I learnt a good deal of the present state of Cuba - its pro-
286
ducts, and the policy of Spain with regard to the colony. My principal informant was a grave, sensible old Spaniard, whose name, however, I have totally forgotten. He took compassion on my evident want of information on the subject, and I felt much obliged to him.
CHAPTER XVI.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF CUBA. COMMERCE. CRUEL TREATMENT OF SLAVES. CREOLES. REVOLT OF THE MATANZAS. ANTICIPATED REVOLT OF THE BLACK POPULATION. EXCLUSIVE STATE OF SOCIETY. " SU- GAR COUNTS." ANIMALS, BIRDS, NOXIOUS INSECTS,
AND REPTILES. RAIL-ROAD. COPPER, SILVER, AND COAL MINES. SPLENDID SCENERY. CUBA INDEBTED FOR ITS PROSPERITY TO VICEROY TACON. PLAZA
DE TOROS. THE CATHEDRAL.
Never may from our souls one truth depart, That an accursed thing it is to gaze
On prosperous tyrants with a dazzled eye; Nor, touched with due abhorrence of their guilt, For whose dire ends tears flow, and blood is spilt, And justice labours in extremity,
Forget thy weakness, upon which is built, O wretched man, the throne of tyranny ! WORDSWORTH.
SINCE its discovery by Christopher Colum- bus, Cuba has frequently been a contested
288
possession between England and Spain. In the year 1760, the island was confirmed as a dependency of the Spanish government, and the Floridas were ceded to Great Britain in exchange. It is a rich and most valuable island; the soil is very productive, and yields two, and sometimes three crops of corn a year. Of the extreme fertility of the island, no one can form an idea, till, from some lofty eminence, he casts his eye over the beautiful aspect of its fertile plains and wooded hills.
Though early in the year when I was there, the country was covered with sweet-smelling and beautiful plants, while already the shrubs and trees were filling the air with the perfume of their fragrant blossoms. The following are some of the principal articles of export. Su- gar, rum, tobacco, cocoa, coffee, molasses, &c. A great quantity of salted meat, and fish,
289
as well as grain of many kinds, are im- ported.
The slave-trade, as is well known, flou- rishes in this country, and to its existence may, I think, be attributed many of the de- grading vices, and peculiar defects, which debase the general character of the white inhabitants of Cuba. The Spaniards have the reputation of showing more kindness to their slaves than the white masters in other slave countries. This may be the case with the domestic slaves, as the black popu- lation certainly look particularly fat, sleek, and well fed. It was at Havana, however, that I first saw the marks of stripes on the shoulders of a woman, and I cannot describe the effect that the sight produced upon me, both of horror against the unmanly wretches who could thus punish a woman, and dis- gust against the race of slave-owners collec- VOL. II. 0
290
tively. How this unnatural traffic bru- talizes the human feelings ! I once wit- nessed, in the neighbourhood of Havana, the degradation of a negro slave prepara- tory to receiving punishment : he was being dragged along with a rope round his neck, like some refractory criminal. Simi- lar, and I fear much worse instances of cruelty are, alas! too frequently occurring in the Plantations.
The proportion of Negroes to white men is greatly in favour of the former. The policy adopted in regard to both Creoles and Negroes, is injudicious ; no attempts being made to conciliate the good will of either. The iron hand of military and des- potic power is the only rule; and where it not for that, there is no doubt but that this fine colony would soon pass from the hands of its present masters. No Creoles are ever
291
employed in any high or honourable offices, nor are they allowed any responsibility or share in the affairs of the government ; thus this numerous class of the inhabitants are rendered disaffected, and ready to join in any scheme of revolt ; and, moreover, the Creoles are many of them possessed of great wealth, which causes them to be infinitely dangerous as enemies. It is said that the Negro population are constantly on the eve of a revolt, and the conscious- ness of this being probably the case, keeps the government in perpetual hot water. The regular troops consist of only ten thousand men, while there are six hun- dred thousand blacks, rendered desperate by oppression, and ready at any moment to turn upon their rulers. The Spanish government in Europe seems but little aware of the volcano, which is so near
292
bursting beneath their overstrained and in- judicious rule.
Not long ago there was a well ordered and nearly successful insurrection of the Matanzas negroes. They behaved with great courage and resolution, and having obtained some slight advantages, they se- cured themselves in a strong position, from which they did not emerge till they had obtained conditions extremely favoura- ble to themselves. The authorities at Ha- vana are now evidently roused to a sense of danger, for even the word freedom is sup- pressed, and the fine national air of " Li- bertad," is not allowed to be sung. It is vain, however, to suppose that such precau- tions will prevent the silent longing for freedom from finding a voice among a people, goaded to desperation by a sense of their wrongs. The coloured population of
A
293
Cuba may be subdued and crushed for a time, but the smouldering fire will some day burst forth from the trampled ashes, and not all the power of Spain will be able to stay its fury.
There are a great many natives of the Canary Islands here : they are said to be good, well disposed people ; and, as ser- vants, they are valued as faithful and intel- ligent.
The different classes of society at Ha- vana, are kept, from all I could learn, strictly apart. There are a few still re- maining of the real old grandees of Spain ; indeed, I have heard persons well ac- quainted with the manners and habits of good old Spanish families declare, that such are to be found now only at Havana. In Spain, (though the Mother Country,) the race is said to be extinct. Great and un-
294
qualified contempt is felt and expressed by these aristocratic families for the " nou- veaux riches," who, swelling with pomp and pride, lord it over their humbler neighbours. Many of the latter, however, are great land- ed proprietors, and slave-owners. " Sugar Counts" they are called ; and the epithet is remarkably well chosen, as it tells, in many instances, the tale of their increase of for- tune, and at the same time conveys an idea of the possibility of their titles and riches melting away as speedily as they have arisen.
One of these " sugar noblemen," (his name I have forgotten, but he is said to be the richest man in the island,) made his for- tune by the importation of slaves - a li- censed dealer in human flesh. I looked at him as a sort of monster, when I re- flected upon the vast amount of human
295
suffering of which he had been the acting cause.
The alligator, the sea cow, and the turtle, are all found in the island of Cuba. The latter, however, are not numerous ; and the supply for consumption at Havana is brought from the island of Nassau.
I saw birds in endless variety; cana- ries, cardinals, nightingales, linnets, perro- quits ; in short, every thing that can be imagined as most gay and harmonious. I could scarcely help fancying it the pleasant month of June, the air was so sweet and soft ; while the song of the birds filled my imagination with memories of past spring- times.
" Now each creature joyes the other Passing happy dayes and howers. One birde reports unto another In the fall of silver showers ; Whilst the earth (our common mother) Hath her bosome deckt with flowers."
296
A great drawback to these spring de- lights, were the fearful number of noxious insects and reptiles ; snakes of the worst kind, scorpions, centipedes, and I cannot tell what besides. The persevering blood- thirsty musquitoes were already rife, but happily they did not venture much on board the yacht.
A rail-road has been in existence for some time in Cuba; extending to a dis- tance of fifty miles between Havana and Guines. It traverses a not very level line of country, and there are several conside- rable cuts through hills, and also a tun- nel of tolerable length. These things speak well for the industry and resources of the Cuba people; for even a little ap- pearance of energy shows well among the enervated denizens of the West Indies. Extensive and valuable coal mines, as well as
297
those containing copper and silver, have been discovered in Cuba : these must be a source of immense wealth, and there is no want of ready money to work them. The rail-road traverses a beautiful line of coun- try, diversified with cocoa-trees, and innu- merable other plants, unknown except within the tropics. We passed in our rail- road excursion through extensive coffee and other plantations of tobacco, sugar, &c. The coffee shrubs grow very prettily, and the green of the leaves is rich and varied. There is great charm to a stranger in see- ing the wild growth of the pine apple, the plantain, the custard apple, and the cocoa tree. The fruit hung on the dark boughs of the orange trees like
" golden lamps in a green night."
There were many other trees, of which I do not know the names, some of which were
0 II.
298
literally loaded with green fruit. The fo- rests are very thick, and clear rills of water trickle down the mountain sides, refreshing one by the very sight of their coolness.
The climate in the mountains is, I am told, healthy enough ; but near the coast we heard enough of its baneful effects. We were warned not to expose ourselves to the influence of the moon's rays ; the influ- ence of the gentle planet being supposed to be particularly dangerous, and to bring on attacks of the fell disease.
The principal cities in Cuba are Havana, St. Jago de Cuba, Principe, and Santa Maria de Punto. There are several safe ports, and good anchorages, but from the vast extent of rocks and shoals, the navigation outside is difficult, and often dangerous. The forts above the city are covered with palm trees ; the citadel itself is very strongly armed, as
299
well as the heights above the town, which are bristling with arms. No stranger is al lowed to visit the arsenal, or to enter the fortifications ; admittance I believe, being li- mited to the government authorities, and the garrison. I heard of a poor artist from a foreign land, who, not being aware of the prohibition, strayed with his colours and brushes within the works. He was not even challenged by the sentinel, who, without any other notice, fired his musquet at the poor man. Fortunately, the wound was not a severe one. Officers of the British navy are especially excluded, not only from visiting the forts, but also from entering the ships of war.
I have already mentioned Tacon, the go- vernor, as one to whom Havana, and in- deed the island of Cuba generally, are in- debted for much of their present peace and
300
prosperity. This clever and enterprising viceroy was sent from Spain some years since. He found the colony in a miserable condition ; there being but few public works and national buildings, and those in ex- istence being neglected and abused. Rob- bery and murder were committed with impunity, and there were neither guar- dians of the public peace, in the shape of police, nor any laws by which justice could be effectually administered. All these evils, and many others, Tacon took upon himself to redress ; he established an efficient police, by which offenders were kept in awe, and quiet was restored to the capital ; he enforced obedience to the laws, protected trade, and hunted out and punished the bands of robbers which before infested the country ; he also built large prisons and enacted useful laws for their government
301
and regulation. I have before said that the planting and arrangement of the public pro- menades was his work, but the most con- spicuous of the adornments, to which Ha- vana is indebted to this indefatigable gover- nor, is the Campo Militar, which is called the Square of Tacon; it has four gates, one on each side of the square, to which he gave the name of Columbus, Cortes, Pizarro and Tacon.
El Teatro de Tacon, as its name implies, was likewise erected under the late gover- nor's auspices. It is remarkably handsome ; I should say about the size of our Hay- market ; and the ornamental part is in very good taste. The pit seats, which are usually occupied solely by gentlemen, are com- fortably fitted up with arm chairs, each one having a number appended to it. There is a good Plaza de Toros, and the
302
bull-fights of Havana used to be celebrated, though at present great complaints are made of the scarcity of good bulls for the arena :- the ladies are in despair, " the stupid beasts are so tame." The cathedral is well worth seeing, particularly during the Holy Week, when black kneeling figures are sprinkled over its wide pavement in all directions. The pictures it contains are scarcely tolerable, but there is an urn shown you, which contains, it is said, the remains of Columbus. I looked at the latter with great interest and respect, as the only mortal part of the great voyager, ordained by providence to bring into light and truth so large a portion of the globe.
CHAPTER XVII.
MAGNIFICENCE OF PRIVATE HOUSES. CEREMONIES OF THE HOLY WEEKS. ENTRANCE OF H. M. SHIP THE ILLUSTRIOUS, ADMIRAL SIR CHARLES ADAM. HIGH PRICE OF PROVISIONS. FRUITS. HIGH RENTS. GOOD FRIDAY. RELIGIOUS PROCESSION. PROTESTANT OR- DINANCES STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. RACE-COURSE. DEATH OF POOR NANNY. THEATRE OF TACON. DANCE ON BOARD THE FLAG-SHIP. OUR LAST EVENING AT HAVANA.
La faiblesse est le seul défaut que l'on ne saurait corriger.
LA ROCHEFAUCAULD. THE private houses at Havana, at least a great many of them, are magnificent. It is the custom here to leave all the windows to the street open at night ; the living rooms are most commonly on the ground-floor, and the passer by is of course at liberty to enjoy the sight of many a gay soirée and
304
tertullia. In other towns, where such things and sights are unknown, a crowd would speedily be collected, but here the practice is so universal, that no one thinks, from mere motives of idle curiosity, of stop- ping to look in. Acquaintances of the house, or of some of the guests may occa- sionally peep in at the windows, in order to ascertain if any of those they would wish to meet are within, and if the re- sult of the survey prove satisfactory, they enter without ceremony. This seems to me a very agreeable style of society, there are no formal réunions, and no person need enter a room with the chance of meet- ing a disagreeable or obnoxious person ; it is, in my opinion, another great advantage, attending this easy mode of visiting, that you are not compelled to remain a moment longer in any house than you find it agreeable.
305
Great preparations were being made for the ceremonies of the Holy Week; the gaiety of the previous days being to be re- placed by the strictest mourning and gloom. Flags of every nation were floating in the harbour ; the gaudy red and yellow of the Spaniard, the French tricolor, the ensigns of Hamburgh, Prussia and Belgium, to say nothing of our own national colours, which, in true loyalty to my country, I ought to have placed first in the list. All these brilliant national colours, if belonging to catholic countries, are, on Good Friday, lowered half mast high ; the yards are canted, and the effigy of Judas Iscariot, after having been hung at the yard arm, is, with every mark of ignominy and detes- tation, thrown head foremost into the sea.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.