USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 2 > Part 6
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The best period for entering the harbour
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at Galveston is after a southerly wind has been blowing pretty fresh for some days, and is then succeeded by a norther. Advan- tage should be taken, at the very commence- ment of the gale, to pass the bar (as ves- sels may lay over the bar with a northerly wind) or otherwise, one may almost say, the whole of the available water is blown out of the bay, and thus the depth on the bar is perhaps reduced to less than nine feet. One of the evils, arising from the hitherto un- settled state of the country, seems to be, that the people, instead of attending to their domestic affairs and agricultural pur . suits, have occupied themselves (for want of better employment) in making a superabun- dance of Laws, and Acts of Congress. There are, I do not know how many of these vo- lumes already published, and many of them are so contradictory, and admit of so many
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interpretations, that it is to be presumed the Texan lawyers will never want business. A great proportion of these acts of Congress re- late to the land laws.
As I have before mentioned the difficulty in getting good titles to land in Texas, I shall endeavour to give some account of the different descriptions of titles. There are of course various opinions on the subject, and I can therefore, only give my own, grounded upon information received from those, whom we considered the best authorities.
The first titles I shall mention are those emanating from the Mexican government ; many of these are unconditional and indis- putable, and are undoubtedly the best that can be found ; there are, however, others, originating from the same source, but which are generally considered totally invalid, cer- tain conditions having been attached to the
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grant, which were never fulfilled by the grantee, but this has not prevented many from setting up claims on the strength of these impresario or contract grants.
The second class of titles are those ema- nating from the government of the Republic of Texas : of these there are various kinds, and they seem to have been granted so in- cautiously, and to have offered at the same time so many facilities for fraud and decep- tion that at present it is almost impossible to pronounce any particular one of these titles to be good or bad; that is to say if it has not been also patented by govern- ment.
I shall divide the titles emanating from the Republic of Texas into four classes.
First. Those titles granted to all who arrived in the country previous to the De- claration of Independence.
H II.
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Second. Titles granted to those who were actually present in Texas, at the declara- tion of Independence, or who took part in the campaign of 1836.
Third. Titles, the headrights of colonists who have arrived in the country, and have become citizens at various periods, since the declaration of Independence.
Fourth. Titles created by the issuing of Government Scrip.
Of these four classes of Texas titles, the first is probably the best, as it is the earliest in date. With regard to the second class, it is only necessary to say, that within a very short period, fifteen thousand indivi- duals had each claimed, and taken posses- sion of his league of land, which, by the Act of Congress, every person who participated in the struggle for independence, was enti- tled to. Now it is well known that, at the
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period alluded to, there were certainly not five thousand fighting men in the whole country ; and the fact was, that thousands of adventurers had, immediately after the act was passed, flocked in from the United States, secured titles to land under false pleas, and forthwith returned to America. This was easily effected by representing themselves as having been long in the coun- try, and in the confusion which prevailed at the moment, the imposition could not be detected. A commission was subsequently appointed by government for the purpose of enquiring into the validity of these titles, and their number was soon reduced from fifteen thousand to five thousand. Those, whose claims were approved of, received patents for their land; but the remaining ten thousand titles were pronounced utterly fraudulent. It is notorious, that many of
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these forged titles to land in Texas, still continue to be sold in the United States.
The third and fourth classes of titles may both be considered good, if the original pos- sessor was undoubtedly the first to "locate on," and register the lands selected. There is a land office for this purpose in each dis- trict, but from the careless and informal manner in which the registers have some- times been kept, and also from the frequent change of surveyors, I am informed that it has often happened, notwithstanding all pos- sible precautions, that the same land has been surveyed, and what is called " lo- cated," by two or three claimants, one after another. If the titles, however, be pa- tented by the government, these accidents are not likely to occur. To account also, in some measure, for the numerous disputes concerning titles to land in Texas, I must
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observe, that in a country so ill surveyed, and frequently so deficient in land-marks, (particularly if the seller be dishonest) it is not always an easy matter to discover the exact position of the estate which is indi- cated by the title you have purchased ; and it is by no means improbable that you may " squat" on some other person's domain, your own being perhaps some miles distant. The rightful owner of the land you have thus unwittingly appropriated, is perhaps resident at New York, and does not think fit to acquaint you with your mistake, till you have built a house, &c., or perhaps laid out the plan of a city. The latter pro- ceeding being already as common in Texas as it is in the United States.
I have now endeavoured to explain the difficulties which exist, in regard to pro- curing titles to land in this country. Many
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such as I have described may be purchased all over the United States, and even in London, but from what I could learn, all such should be abstained from. It must not, however, be supposed that good and safe titles to land are unattainable. On the con- trary, with proper care and caution, they may be obtained in the country, with a good government patent, and with indis- putable right. I believe, too, that the money paid will be trifling compared with that which would be expended for the same purpose any where else in the world. It ought to be remembered, among its other advantages, that Texas comprises an extent of country as large as France, and that half its lands are still unappropriated. One of the evils attendant on settling in Texas, at least one that it has been accused of, is that " aliens" cannot hold land in Texas. In
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regard to some land titles, this is certainly true ; but the difficulty may be entirely ob- viated by a foreigner spending six months in the country. This trifling expenditure of time, which may be very usefully em- ployed, confers the right of citizenship, and enables a stranger to hold land on the same footing as the Texan. It should also be added, that in the case of an alien hold- ing land, the only party proceeding against him would be the government; and such an opponent has so rarely started up in any country, that not much fear need be entertained on that score. Apparently no country can be more admirably adapted for breeding purposes, in the case of mules and horses, and it is supposed that it would be an extremely good speculation to export the latter from Texas, where they may be bought for thirty dollars, to Ha-
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vanna, where their price is from two hun- dred and fifty to five hundred dollars. The passage thither occupies about four or five days ; and there is but little question, that if the Spanish government were so far to overcome its feelings against Mexico, as to acknowledge the independence of Texas, Cuba would become a great market for Texan produce of every kind.
CHAPTER IX.
HISTORY AND CHARACTER OF GENERAL HOUSTON, PRESIDENT OF TEXAS. RUN FOR THE PRESIDENCY. WHITTLING. DISCOMFORT OF TRAVELLING IN TEXAS.
For forms of government let fools contest ; Whate'er is best administer'd is best :
For modes of faith, let graceless zealots fight ; His can't be wrong whose life is in the right ; In faith and hope the world will disagree, But all mankind's concern is charity :
All must be false that thwarts this one great end ; And all of God, that bless mankind, or mend.
POPE.
As we intend shortly making an excursion up the country, and if possible paying our respects to the celebrated President, General Houston, I think that a short account of the history and character of the latter may not be unacceptable. Of the talents of this remarkable man, there
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can, and does, exist but one opinion ; but there is, nevertheless, a strong party against him. From the want of other objects to occupy their time and attention, a large proportion of the people amuse themselves by abusing him, both in his public and pri- vate capacity. The impossibility of a go- vernor of a country pleasing and satisfying all parties, is every where acknowledged ; and the want of national funds under which the republic at present labours, greatly increases the difficulty. Every instance of adversity, and every deficiency of dollars, is attributed at once to the President's mis- management or cupidity. The latter charge is so strange, and so utterly unfounded, that it finds but few believers. There are several other causes of complaint against him. The principal one is, his avowed dislike to going to war, which,
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in common with all people who have but little to lose, is a favourite pas- time with the Texans. The advice of the President to his countrymen,-" stay at home, gentlemen, look after your flocks and herds, and sow corn,"-meets but little sym- pathy from his fellow-citizens. Another cause of his unpopularity with the fighting party, is his opposition to the existence of a navy in Texas; the President con- tending, that they have no use for ships, and that the support of a navy is a useless incumbrance to the republic. American sympathizers and loafers are objects of his especial enmity ; and with reason, for no persons are so much to be feared. They are people who go about in search of pro- miscuous plunder, and it matters nothing to them, whether friend or enemy falls a victim to their rapacity. If nothing is to be made
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of the Mexicans, they turn upon the Texans in search of prey.
It is well known that the Mexicans, in general, are not well disposed towards Santa Anna, whose military despotism is ill calculated to conciliate their regard; and it is not difficult to believe that, were they left to themselves, they would be friendly to- wards the Texans. As a proof of this, in the late campaign on the frontier, most energetic proceedings, conducted with beau- tiful military skill, were made by the Texans for the attack of Mier. Fire eating parties of warlike citizens, armed and capa- risoned, advanced simultaneously at three different points of attack, resolved to con- quer or to die. What was their surprise to find that they had wasted all this valuable energy and courage without necessity. No opposition was made by the Mexicans to
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their entrance, but on the contrary, they were received in the most friendly manner, and invited to eat, drink, and refresh them- selves. The return made by the invaders for the kindness with which they were treated, was ungrateful indeed. In the dead of the night, they commenced plunder- ing, and appropriating to themselves every thing they could lay their hands on.
These men were loafers - the dangerous and unprincipled set of people of whom General Houston is so anxious to free the country. One of the few respectable indi- viduals who took part in the expedition told us, that they were heartily ashamed of being there, and, for his own part, he felt " dread- ful small" on the occasion. But to return to the character of the President. Old Sam, as he is universally called, is, I believe, a native of Kentucky, and was educated for
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the law. He distinguished himself highly at the United States bar, and married an Ame- rican lady possessed of great personal at- tractions. Differences subsequently arose between himself and his wife, the causes of which are not known, and as divorces are easily obtained in this country, where mutual irritability is alone sufficient to es- tablish grounds for entire separation, Gene- ral Houston took advantage of this facility. To judge from his subsequent conduct, he must have felt his domestic bereavement se- verely, and it seems to have been long be- fore he recovered from its effects. In the year 1828, in a fit of disgust and despair, as it is supposed, he took up his abode among a distant tribe of Indians, I believe the Cherokees. He spent several years among them, conforming himself to their habits, and even outdoing them in some of
GENERAL SAMUEL HOUSTON,
! Con . T Murray, Athvem arle 5'1544. Vy& Haghe Lith te he goten.
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their acts of daring and adventure. He is said to have taken to himself a squaw; but let it be remembered that this is only hear- say evidence, and I do not vouch for its veracity. It is commonly related, that at this period of his life, and in the society of these primitive bon vivans, General Hous- ton grew so attached to the dram bottle, that the Indians bestowed on him the so- briquet of " drunken Sam." Having now said all the evil, if such it can be called, of his character we must turn to the bright side. General Houston's bravery is worthy of the boldest days of chivalry ; his patriot- ism sincere and unquestioned, and his in- tegrity without a stain. His talents as a legislator are of a high order, and should those that are against him succeed in elect- ing a President who is opposed to him in politics, they will find him most formidable in
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opposition. When we consider how mainly instrumental the President has been in se- curing their independence, we are the more surprised that he should have enemies among his own people. In the enumera- tion of his qualities, we should, however, no- tice, that he is caustic and severe ; and that his superior talents render him, perhaps, not sufficiently lenient to the faults and weakness of others ; circumstances which may, in some measure, account for his un- popularity.
General Houston has lately married again, and his wife is said to be an accomplished and exemplary person. She possesses great influence over the President, and uses it with judgment and moderation. Owing to her admirable advice, General Houston has broken through those habits of drinking and swearing, which were formerly blots
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on his character, and the latter of which injured his health. He is a man of edu- cation, and, besides being well read in po- lite literature, appreciates the elegant and standard authors of our country.
Whenever the President travels through the country, it is at the expense of the per- sons at whose houses he puts up, and when he makes use of a steamer he has the pri- vilege of a free passage. I believe that during his public career, General Houston has neither saved nor made a dollar; on the contrary, he is said to be often in pecu- niary difficulties. As a proof how con- vinced the people are of his integrity, in regard to not having amassed a fortune from the public funds, it may be men- tioned, that not long ago, being in want of a little tobacco, and not having wherewith to purchase it, he could not obtain credit.
VOL. II.
I
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Parties are much divided, and the opi- nions of the people are showing themselves in various ways, on the subject of the elec- tion of the next President. It is the pre- vailing topic of conversation; indeed, it seems to me, that both in the United States and Texas, this sort of excitement is so popular, that no sooner is a President elected, than there commences all the ex- citement of canvassing for, and choosing his successor. At the present moment, there are several persons who are about to "run," as they call it, for the Presidency. General Houston has bitter enemies ; but he has likewise warm friends and partizans, who are among the best and most influential of the people; it is, therefore, not probable that the choice of a successor in the go- vernment will fall upon any one inimical to him, or decidedly adverse to his line of po-
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licy. Without using any undue means to make himself popular, the President is courteous and polite to persons of all ranks ; and, though I believe a Tory at heart, makes no difference in his civility of manner, to any parties or factions. The House of Assembly at Washington is open to the street; it has no windows, and any one may look in who pleases. General Houston's greeting to the free citizens - carters, or blacksmiths, as the case may be - is always equally kind and polite. It is, " How d'ye do, Colonel ? How's Madam ? Bad weather for the ladies !"
During this time, and while public bu- siness was under discussion, the honourable members of Congress were to be seen seated on candle boxes and sugar casks ; in short, on any thing they could find ; and each man was whittling away without intermission.
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A piece of wood is placed before each senator, who, were it not for this necessary precaution, would very soon, in common with his honourable friends, cut the table to pieces. No sooner is a member seated, than he takes out his knife, and never leaves off cutting away, whether speaking or silent.
A great deal, certainly, is done with wood, besides the national amusement of whittling it away. It is invariably used for building ; and the celerity with which they erect both churches and houses, is, as I have before remarked, wonderful. A troop of Franconi's horses, at least their owners called them such, on their way from Mexico to the United States, were at pre- sent amusing the good citizens of Galveston by their performances. In a day, there was built for them quite a large temporary
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theatre for the exercise of their ma- nœuvres. Though some of the houses have a certain air of exterior neatness and decoration, yet comfort, at least domestic household comfort, is quite unknown in this country. The north winds blow through and through their paper houses, and they heed it not ; while carpets, well made beds, and all such necessaries of life, are unknown or despised. The traveller in Texas must set out prepared for every spe- cies of discomfort ; his bed, if he should happen to procure one, will be disputed, or, if he should happen to prefer a compromise, perhaps shared, by some other traveller. The late Chargé d'affaires of his French Majesty, chanced to be travelling up the country, in this primitive republic. He was fresh from the luxuries and agrémens of a Paris life, not among the least of which may
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be reckoned the comfortable beds which are every where to be enjoyed. To this agreeable mode of existence, Texas, and its numerous inconveniences, must have formed a striking contrast. On arriving at one of the halting places at night, he re- tired to what he doubtless imagined would be a solitary couch; and though the winds of heaven were whistling through his log- built chamber, and the bright stars peeping through the roof, the fatigue of the journey soon closed his eyes in slumber. He had not, however, slept many minutes, when he was awoke by the entrance of a most for- midable looking individual. It was a stout Kentuckian, duly armed with bowie knife and pistols ; and who, while in the act of disencumbering himself of his upper gar- ments, said, in a coarse, but not unfriendly voice, " Well, stranger, I guess I'll take the
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inside of the bed, if it's the same to you ?" I believe the Parisian preferred passing the night on the floor, to the misfortune of having a Yankee between the wall and his nobility.
No innkeeper in this country would ever dream of sending away a traveller on the plea of want of room, as long as one bed remained in his house unoccupied, except by two men. It was with a perfect know- ledge of the difficulties and inconveniences that awaited us, that we made up our minds to undertake an excursion up the country, and we were therefore prepared for all contingencies. I may here remark that, on a previous occasion, when I ac- companied Mr. Houstoun on a fishing and shooting excursion to the mainland, I could not help thinking, how extremely eligible is this country for railroads. As far as I
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could see, and I was told it was the same for miles, the horizon was only bounded by the flat, and pathless prairie. Oh! that such advantages of locomotion were now at hand ! But then, though unquestionably we should have been spared many of the small and tedious troubles of the route, we should also have been deprived of the pleasure of seeing a remarkable country in its primeval state, and we should also have lost in interest, what we should have gained in luxury and comfort. The weather was extremely cold, and sharp northers were chilling us with their ungenial breath, but we were too anxious to see something more of the country, to be easily dissuaded from our purpose.
The corps diplomatique were engaged to join our party, and the arrangements re- quired for the undertaking being few and
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simple, we fixed an early day, and forthwith took our places in the steamer bound up the Buffaloe Bayon to Houston.
I II.
CHAPTER X.
COMMENCEMENT OF AN EXCURSION UP THE COUNTRY. THE HOUSTON STEAMER. HER PASSENGERS. THE TOWN OF HOUSTON. TAVERN FARE E AT HOUSTON. START FOR THE PRAIRIE.
Give allowance to our liberal jests Upon their persons -
BEAUMONT AND FLETCHER.
Where highest woods impenetrable To sun or starlight, spread their umbrage broad And brown as evening. MILTON.
IT was about two o'clock in the afternoon of a bright frosty day, that we put ourselves on board the Houston steamer - Captain Kelsey. She was a small vessel, and drew but little water, a circumstance very neces- sary in these small rivers. The American river steamers differ very much in appear-
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ance from those to which an European eye is accustomed. They have the appearance of wooden houses, built upon a large raft ; there is a balcony or verandah, and on the roof is what is called the hurricane deck, where gentlemen passengers walk and smoke. On the occasion of our taking our passage both ladies and gentlemen's cabin were quite full, and I therefore preferred spending the evening in the balcony in spite of the cold. I had many kind offers of civility, but I could not help being amused at the terms in which some of them were couched. The question addressed to me of " do you liquor, ma'am" was speedily followed by the production of a tumbler of egg-noggy, which seemed in great request, and I cannot deny its excel- lence ; I believe the British Navy claims the merit of its invention, but this is matter of dispute.
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We dined soon after our arrival on board and found every body very orderly and civil ; certainly there was a strange mixture of ranks, but this made it more amusing to a stranger. The ladies, during dinner, were very silent, though the noise I had heard them making in their own cabin, five minutes, before was deafening. The supper consist- ed of alternate dishes of boiled oysters, and beef steaks, of which there was plenty, and the latter disappeared in marvellously quick time between the strong jaws of the Texan gentlemen. I confess to preferring meat which has been kept somewhat more than an hour, especially in frosty weather. On one occasion our dinner was delayed for some time, while the cook went on shore and " shot a beef."
There was fortunately water enough for us to cross Red Fish Bar, and we were fast
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steaming up Buffalo River. For a con- siderable distance from the mouth, the shores are low, flat and swampy, but as the stream narrowed there were high banks, and the trees were quite beautiful in spite of the season, which was extremely unfavourable to foliage and woody scenery. Such mag- nolias -eighty feet in height, and with a girth like huge forest trees, - what must they be when in full blossom ! There were also a great number and variety of ever- greens, laurel, bay, and firs, rhododendrons, cistus, and arbutus. It seemed one vast shrubbery ; the trees and shrubs grew to a prodigious height, and often met over the steamer, as she wound through the short reaches of this most lovely stream.
It was late when I retired to my cabin, for the scene, lighted by a clear frosty moon, was so beautiful, and to me so novel, that I
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could not make up my mind to leave it. I had expected to be much annoyed by the noise of the high pressure engine ; to that, however, I soon became accustomed, but, on the other hand, of all the sounds I ever heard, that of the negro slaves carolling out their nightly songs was the most dismal and unearthly. They were seated, some on the hurricane deck and others at their work, but all joining in the same loud, weary, monotonous chaunt. The young girls have generally beautiful figures, and are as straight and upright as young pines : in the ladies cabin especially there was one very pretty bright-eyed black girl, who seemed full of fun and good humour.
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