USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 2 > Part 12
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12
337
of value may not, in its descent from the roofs, come in contact with any dirty or discolouring substance. The roads are ex- cellent and well kept ; being made chiefly of granite, taken from the many picturesque rocks, which are interspersed among the ce- dar woods. There are large fields of arrow- root, which is one of their great articles of export ; the arrow-root is far superior to that grown and prepared in the West Indies, the reason assigned for which is, that it is prepared by hand in Bermuda, while at Jamaica, machinery is resorted to. The former method makes the arrow-root far more delicate and high flavoured. Onions, which are shipped in immense quantities to New York and other parts of this is- land, are another "staple commodity." A considerable number are, I have no doubt, consumed by the natives, as adjuncts to VOL. II.
338
the ducks, which are likewise excellent, and bred in great numbers. Other kinds of poultry are scarce and dear; in short, necessary provisions, of all kinds, are not raised in sufficient quantities to supply the wants of the island. Corn is very dear, as well as potatoes; pigs are not to be had, and cattle are brought over from the American coast.
I should say that the inhabitants of Ber- muda were inveterately idle; by far the greater proportion are very poor and live mostly on fish. Boat building is the most common trade, and that seems very much overstocked. A great many whales are taken at Bermuda during the season, and several were caught during our stay. After the oil has been removed, the fleshy parts are left on the strand, and as the law does not allow the sale of this article of food,
339
any one may take a portion of this whale- beef, as it is called. If you want to taste it, you have nothing to do but to send to the shore and cut off your portion ; nor is there any fear of mistaking the spot where the huge carcase is lying ; according to the old saying, you have but to "follow your nose."
After several boilings and much soaking the flesh of the whale is very tolerable, and may easily be mistaken for cow-beef; those people, however, whose olfactory nerves are in a delicate state, would do wisely not to have it cooked within half a mile of their drawing room.
On Monday we took a pleasant drive about the island, during which I saw, among other curious things, a large na- tural tank, hollowed out in the granite rocks, and filled with salt water ; it was full
340
of fish of different kinds, some of a very large size. The fish, called groupers, were the most numerous ; there were others of brilliant and beautiful colours, particularly the " angel fish," covered with blue and sil- ver ; we saw them fed, and it was wonderful to mark so closely the habits of these mon- sters of the deep ; they came up to the sur- face of the water, opening their enormous jaws, and then rolled over again, making room for some huge companion to take his turn. They are said to breed here, and certainly they all appeared to feel them- selves quite at home.
Tuesday ; this morning we went on shore to pay a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy. Mr. Kennedy is the Government Secretary, and his house and gardens would really, in any country, be a model of good taste, comfort, and beauty. Such a profusion of
341
flowers I never saw,-gorgeous flowers from between the tropics, roses from France, all Knight's and Colville's choicest houses ransacked for sweets and beauty. I know little about flowers, their scientific names or their natures, but I do know that none ever seemed to me so beautiful, as those I saw in Mrs. Kennedy's exquisite garden. Imagine hedges of the rich double pome- granite ; roses, in whose thick foliage and glowing blossoms you might lose yourself ; and such geraniums! The sweet rose, the scarlet intermingled with heliotropes and verbenas, and all wild and uncultured.
The kitchen gardens are no less worthy of notice ; every sort of vegetable, growing to a perfection I rarely have seen before, and though so early in the year, there were beans, peas, cauliflowers, and young pota- toes.
342
All these things are pleasant, but a kind welcome is pleasanter far, and that is a luxury one is sure to meet with at Rose Bank. We took a long drive to day, first to the house of the Bishop of Newfound- land, who had previously honoured the Dolphin with a visit, and who promised to shew me the view from his house, as well as the famed sea-grape, which flourishes near it. The day was hot, but not so much so as to be disagreeable ; and though the carriage indeed was rough and the horse stumbled, I nevertheless enjoyed the excursion, for it was a new country, and novelty has always its charm. There is a very steep ascent be- fore arriving at the residence of the bishop, but the prospect from it amply repays one for the toil.
I
After a walk of about half a mile from the house to the sea-beach, we seated our-
343
selves beneath the shade of one of those peculiar trees, the sea-grape. In growth they resemble ancient fig-trees ; having the same rough bold branches and broad-leaves, far apart from each other ; when I visited the spot, the leaves, which are very thick, large and broad, were shaded into red of different hues, and the remains only of the berries were hanging from the branches. I sat down beneath them with my agreea- ble companion, and our imaginations natu- rally wandered to the magical creation of nature's "favourite son." We made up our minds that it was at this particular spot that Prospero sojourned, and Mi- randa first saw the "brave form," she thought a spirit. We fixed upon the place where " quaint Ariel " gently did his " spi- riting," and even discovered the tree from which his master freed him. It was but the
344
imagination of an idea, yet still it seemed tangible and clear.
I am sure that fancy takes a wider range, and that the heart beats more quickly, to sudden and beautiful thoughts, with a sky like this above, and such sweet scenery around.
The pale eyed genius of the shade, Led thy bold step to Prosper's magic bower,
Whose voice the howling winds obey'd, Whose dark spell chain'd the rapid hour ; Then rose, serene, the sea-girt isle, - Gay scenes, by fancy's touch refin'd, Glow'd to the musing mind ;
Such visions bless the hermit's dream, When hovering angels prompt his placid smile, Or paint some high exstatic theme.
Then beams Miranda on th'enraptur'd gaze ; Then sails bright Ariel, on the bat's fleet wing, Or starts the listening throng in still amaze ; The wild note trembling on th' aerial string, The form in heaven's resplendent vesture gay, Floats on the mantling cloud and pours the melting lay.
I never felt any climate so enjoyable as
345
that of these lovely islands, at the period of our visit. There were many beautiful plants and shrubs which I have seen nowhere else ; one in particular -the Pride of India it
It is called - I was much delighted with. grows to a considerable height, perhaps fif- teen or twenty feet, and has a bright ele- gant lilac-coloured blossom ; the perfume is delicious, especially in the evening, when it comes wafting through the air to a conside- rable distance. I believe that most English flowers and shrubs, I mean those that are commonly cultivated in our gardens and hot- houses, would flourish here ; the inhabitants, however, seem, most of them, to be too indo- lent and too tasteless to care much about these sweet favourites of nature.
The time had now arrived when we were to leave these wooded islands. Enchant- ing indeed were the days we spent among
Q II.
346
their "sunny waves," and "bowers," and " breezy hills," and now we are afloat again on the " old majestic sea." On the occa- sion of our coming to Hamilton, I had seen nothing of the scenery through which the schooner had passed, it being so early in the morning; but now, to make me amends, I saw it all in perfection. Wind- ing through narrow channels, formed by coral rocks and cedar wooded banks,
through water so clear and so shallow, that you could distinctly make out the shells and shining gravel at the bottom, the yacht glided on towards Ireland harbour ; and now
" The noontide sun a splendour pours, And lights up all these leafy shores."
And after a voyage far too short, we found ourselves at Ireland island. It is very pretty here; and as we intended to remain a day,
347
the gig was ordered to be manned, and we set out on a long cruizing expedition about the islands. Somerset was our first point, and there we landed, and roamed about the rocks, picking up shells and coral. We passed the " Haunted Island," which no 'Mudian will go within sight of, after dark, and then paid a visit to the dockyard, which did not seem to me much worth see- ing. There were a great many convicts, several of whom, I was told, were compara- tively rich men ; indeed they can all earn a comfortable existence by the manufac- ture of pretty little toys and ornaments of coral.
The Electra, man-of-war corvette, had ar- rived at Ireland island the day before, and we went on board. It was impossible for even a landswoman not to be struck by her extreme beauty, and the care and evident
348
attention which were paid to the most tri- fling minutiæ of her personal appearance. The Dolphin was lying alongside the flag- ship, and was kindly permitted to take in a supply of water from the latter; a long operation, which was performed du- ring our absence, for we did not return on board till after dusk. The most inte- resting object to me was the Dockyard bu- rial-ground, the last home of the " United Service." This spot has been comparatively but a short time consecrated to this pur- pose, and is the most picturesque, and most tranquil home that the imagination can conceive. It is a little valley hid among low hills covered with cedar trees ; these trees of ever-living green seem to shade and guard it, and the stranger, who comes to see the spot, comes upon it unawares. The tombs, which are not very numerous, are
349
all of the white stone of the country, and the burial-ground is surrounded by a low iron railing. Through this fence, the pomegranate blossom peeps, and among the graves, the gay and varied flowers of the geranium flourish in wild luxuriance. Side by side rest the Admiral, whose head had grown white in the service of his country, and the little midshipman whose dozen years have barely sped.
We were rowed from this " sweet spot for contemplation," by the vigorous arms of our boat's crew, but it was so late when we reach- ed the ship, that she was with difficulty seen.
Some of the officers of the flag-ship dined with us on board - a parting visit, for we intended to sail at day-break. The evening was enlivened by cheerful music from our giant neighbour, and we sepa- rated at a late hour.
350
A pilot was taken on board, and I was awoke at five o'clock in the morning by the sounds attendant on departure. I rose, and dressed immediately ; and having in my mind the many wonderful anecdotes I had heard of Bermudian pilots, and of their taking ships through narrow rocky channels, I was eager to have my curio- sity gratified. The wind was directly a-head, and it was consequently neces- sary to beat out of the narrow channel. The pilot said he had never taken a vessel, anything like the size of the yacht, out of the harbour with a head wind, and she had thus an opportunity of dis- playing some of her good qualities. It fre- quently occurred, that when the forepart of the schooner was almost touching a buoy, her stern was within a foot of one of the myriads of rocks which mark the channel.
351
The difficulty of surmounting all these dan- gers must be very great, and the power of doing so only to be acquired by long practice and experience. Soon after we had discharged our pilot, we saw a whale at some little distance from us. On look- ing towards the shore, we perceived that the presence of one of these monsters of the deep was known there also, for a whale boat was putting off with all dispatch.
On rolled the creature, his great black sides turning up and over, in his awkward disportings, while every now and then he rose up in the air, and a spout of water darted up from his nose. I was, I confess, anxious to witness a strife between the whalers and their prey, but I was destined to be disappointed. The whale got into deep water, too far off for the whalers, who never go to any distance to sea to over-
352
take them. The weather was fine and moderate, and once out of the harbour, the wind was tolerably favourable.
Our poor little dogs felt the cold much ; and Pedro, the puppy, who for some time had stood up manfully against his troubles, paid the debt of nature the day after we left Bermuda. I heard afterwards that he was sewn up by some of the crew in a little hammock, and the ship's bell tolled dis- mally when his tiny body was cast into the waves.
And now, we were fairly off for England ! yes,
" Homeward now the bounding vessel flies."
It almost seemed as if the little Dolphin knew she was going home, so lightly and swiftly did she sport through the waters. Thoughts of happy meetings with anxious friends filled every heart. One certainly
353
requires something to console oneself for going northward, and I, "for one," gave many a sigh to the sunny climes we had left ; indeed, though it was May, "joyous May," as poets will persist in calling it, I feel that the weather might be wintry, and I cast many a backward thought on ge- nial airs, and skies without a cloud. We always prize what we have lost, and I half felt that I had not appreciated these enjoy- ments sufficiently when I had them.
One morning I was called on deck by the report of another whale being near ; and near enough he was, not ten yards from the yacht, " lifting the deep upon his back," and looking as if he could lift us too with the greatest ease. He must have been at least a hundred feet long, and we could judge pretty correctly of his size, for he lay at times alongside of the yacht, and
354
surpassed her somewhat in length. This was the only event which occurred till we came in sight of the Western islands.
CHAPTER XIX.
THE AZORES. TERCEIRA. APPEARANCE OF FAYAL FROM THE SEA. SCILLY ISLANDS. EDDYSTONE LIGHTHOUSE. PORTLAND. THE NORTH FORELAND. CONCLUSION.
A various scene the wide spread landscape yields, O'er rich enclosures, and luxuriant fields ; A lowing herd each fertile pasture fills, And distant flocks stray o'er a thousand hills : Fair Greenwich hid in woods with new delight Shade above shade now rises to the sight ; His woods ordain'd to visit every shore, And guard the island which they graced before. TICKELL.
MAY 17th. Sighted the Azores; - the is- land of Pico on the leeward bow, and in the afternoon we passed close to Terceira. The coast seemed pretty, I thought, the most distinguishing feature being an immense conical shaped mountain. The hills are in
356
very picturesque arrangement, and are orna- mented with many white, and good-sized houses. We were becalmed for some time off these islands, and had thus an oppor- tunity of seeing as much of Fayal as could be seen from the sea. With the help of a good glass we could make out both animate and inanimate objects very distinctly. After this calm, we had some rather strong winds, but they were in our favour, and we dashed home at the rate of nine and ten knots an hour.
On the 24th of May, after a wonderfully short passage from Bermuda, we sighted the Scilly Islands, and greeted a misty view of English land. There was a very heavy swell, and a cold drizzling rain falling.
The next day in the forenoon, we passed the Eddystone lighthouse, and fell in with
357
many " outward bounders." Ungraceful merchant ships, laden doubtless with rich stores for all parts of the known world, were to be seen in all directions ; and more than once we were hailed; to know our name, and whence we came.
The weather was essentially English,-an English May ! The sea cold and dark, re- flected the cheerless clouds, and through the thick, wet air, dismal looking gulls were flying heavily. It was a discouraging pros- pect, and nothing but the thoughts of home could prevent one continually drawing com- parisons very unfavourable to our country's climate. In the afternoon we passed Port- land Lighthouse, and saw green fields, and pleasant hedge-rows. Here we met the " lone fisher on the lonely sea, who, in the wild waters had been labouring, far from home, for some bleak pittance." For a
358
dollar, the only species of coin we possessed, we purchased as much fish as would have supplied a meal to a ship's company, and greatly did we enjoy it. Soon after this we passed a fleet of fishing boats, and sent letters on shore, too happy in the thought that we were sparing a few hours of anxiety to those who had so long been looking out for us.
25th. We passed the North Foreland, and felt that we were at home. The little schooner, after her long and distant career had returned in safety, and though we had encountered more than our due share of severe gales and stormy weather, scarcely a sail or a spar had been carried away, and not a single sea had been shipped. That this had been so, may be attributed as much to the excellent seaworthy qualities of the yacht, as to the skill, and unwearying atten-
359
tion of her officers and crew. But now how quietly we glided up the river! Our troubled, but joyous course over the wild waves was over, and the dull stream bore us on its sullen waters !
I could have grieved for the blue seas and the bluer skies that we had left behind us, but that I looked forward to happy meetings with long parted friends, and thought, with still deeper gratitude, on the Power which had preserved us through the many dangers, which threaten those " that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters."
But our voyage up the river is ended, and preparations are making for leaving the yacht. I look round upon the hardy crew, who have shared our dangers, and foolish as it may seem, feel something very like a heaviness of heart, when I remember that
360
I shall never see the shipmates of so many months collected together on that deck again. But still more do I regret to part from my home upon the waters - from the gallant vessel that has borne us in triumph through so many storms and dangers.
END OF VOL. II.
PRINTED BY W. NICOL, 60, PALL MALL ..
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.