USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 2 > Part 3
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I will give one proof of the extremely methodical habits of the New Orleans citi- zens, and of the adroit manner in which cer- tain matters are managed here. The Post Office is a large building, in the centre of which there is a bar, or " liquoring-hall." A
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clock of conspicuous appearance also deco- rates the entrance. The merchants, &c. are in the daily habit of calling for their letters at the Post Office, there being no delivery in any other manner. The man who kept the bar - and a cunning man he must have been - remarked, that at a cer- tain hour all the merchants, after securing their despatches, went off to another house to liquor. He took great pains to ascertain the exact hour at which this ceremony took place ; and having done so, made his arrangements accordingly. It appeared, that before going " on 'Change," the mer- chants, as though actuated by one simulta- neous motive, took their morning " liquor" precisely at half-past ten. The hands of the Post Office clock pointed at a quarter- past ten when the letters were delivered ; and the men of business immediately hur-
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ried off to take their invigorating draught. Our friend at the Post Office, craftily and in secret, contrived daily to move on the hands of his clock some ten minutes. The merchants looked up. " What ! As I'm alive, it's half-past ten a'most ; its infarnal late ; I actilly must take my liquor here to- day, Sir." And so they all did. And after a time, it became a confirmed habit to take their early dram at the bar of the Post Office. He was a very smart man that gin sling, and sherry cobler seller.
I believe that the "liquoring" hour often tells the New Orleans citizen what o'clock it is, so regular is the habit, and so indis- pensible is it to his comfort.
It is impossible not to reflect with admi- ration, when one walks through the streets of New Orleans, on the immense distance to which goods are conveyed by the people
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who purchase them. Every fifth store is a hatter's, and to judge from the flourishing state of this branch of trade, " awful good" hats must be in great demand. Numbers are sent to the Yankees, in the Far West, and as the dress in those distant settle- ments is very savage and primitive, the effect of a very large shining hat on the head of one of these skin-clad settlers, must be very charming. Another remark I made at New Orleans, connected with a much more important branch of trade, may not be uninteresting. At New Orleans, I saw a gown of printed cotton, which had been purchased at one of the stores; the pattern was pretty, the price very mode- rate, and the colours indelible. The cheap- ness of the cotton I thought so remarkable, that I was induced to ask "whence it came ?" The reply was, that it was of
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American manufacture. And so it was- and even I - unskilled as I am in commer- cial matters, was struck by the possible consequences of the perfection to which the Americans have brought their manufac- tures. I had never thought much on the subject, but I had always supposed that all kinds of cotton and woollen goods, besides iron ware, were imported into America from England. To my great surprise, however, I found that nearly every thing of this kind that we saw was of native manufacture, and that the prices of them were no higher than in England. It is a positive fact, and certainly an important one, that in the year 1826, one hundred and fifty millions of yards of calico were imported into the United States ; and that last year the quan- tity was reduced to fifteen millions! It appears to me that America has, thus far,
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derived benefit from her almost restrictive tariff; for she is now, as far as regards the manufacture of cotton, woollen, and iron goods, independent of other countries. The manufacturing of these articles is so profita- ble a business, that several English compa- nies are establishing factories, &c. in va- rious parts of America. When the Yan- kee spirit of enterprise and go-a-headism is taken into consideration, it may fairly be conjectured that, at no distant period, they will become formidable rivals to Great Bri- tain, and will greatly interfere with her ex- clusive privilege of supplying the world with the articles above mentioned.
I had laid in a stock of new books for the voyage, for at no place can a tempo- rary library be procured at a less outlay than in the United States. Bulwer's novel of the "Last of the Barons," was sold at
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two bits, - about eleven pence - and every other work in proportion! A work pub- lished in England comes out almost simul- taneously in the United States; and Eng- lish works of standard authors are eagerly bought, and read - I suspect - mostly by the ladies.
CHAPTER IV.
MR. CLAY THE POPULAR ORATOR. GENERAL REMARKS ON AMERICAN SOCIETY AND MANNERS. DEPARTURE FROM NEW ORLEANS.
Si nous n'avions point de défauts, nous ne prendrions pas tant de plaisir a en remarquer dans les autres.
ROCHEFOUCAULD,
L'esprit de defiance nous fait croire que tout le monde est capable de nous tromper.
LA BRUYERE.
MR. Clay was at New Orleans : he is their great orator and a whig, and it is supposed by many that he will be their president at some future time. There was much public dancing, driving, eating and speechifying in his honour, for among the characteristics of their English origin, that of exercising their eating and drinking powers in behalf of a popular character, still remains in all its
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glory. Mr. Clay is deservedly popular ; he was making a sort of progress through the States, but I am told does not pay his tra- velling expences out of his own purse. This makes a vast difference, and is the strongest possible proof of the orator's popularity. The affections of the multitude seldom en- dure, after an appeal is made to their poc- kets. The last tribute paid before his de- parture, to the orator's high, and well de- served reputation, appeared in the shape of a public ball. Invitations were sent on board the yacht, but unluckily they only arrived the day after the fête; and by this means we were prevented from witnessing what was, no doubt, an interesting national display. I heard, however, the events of the evening described, and Mr. Clay's polite speech to the New Orleans ladies was much admired.
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One of my greatest sources of amuse- ment, was in remarking how different are the sayings and doings of a people speaking the same language, and descended from the same parent stock as ourselves. In the stores, you will see people, who should you happen to meet them the next day, will be prepared at once to claim your notice, by shaking hands with you. This custom, strange as it at first appears to the inhabit- ant of aristocratic countries, is very easily accounted for. Let it be remembered that, in this country, no " honest calling " pre- cludes a man from the right of being called a " gentleman," and that whilst you are possibly stigmatizing him as " forward " or " impertinent," he is not in the least degree conscious, that because your fortune may consist in lands, place or funded property, and his in dry goods, you are, therefore, in
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any way privileged to consider yourself a greater man than himself.
It struck me, however, that the manners of the Americans were deficient in that real dignity, which consists in finding ones right place in society and keeping it. In such a society as exists in America, all stations are ill defined, nor can there ever be a standard of good breeding, where so many causes con- cur to render the grades of society for ever fluctuating. Much, therefore, is left to the intuitive tact and natural good sense of each individual ; but the peculiar sensitiveness of the Americans renders them perhaps ill qua- lified to manage these delicate matters well. This is particularly to be remarked when they are brought in contact with foreigners. The American who, in his own country, and towards his own people, is courteous and po- lite, - neither vainglorious, nor apt to take
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offence, - becomes in Europe, or amongst Europeans (from this very want of knowing his station) abrupt, rude, and offensively boastful. He lives in constant fear of trans- gressing those rules of etiquette, of which he greatly overrates the importance; and, fearful of not being enough considered, and aiming at achieving a trivial and unworthy importance, he ceases to be the manly, in- dependent character, for which nature and education intended him.
But to return to the effect produced upon us by the apparent familiarity of an Ameri- can's first abord. The Englishman, wrap- ped up in his armour of aristocratic absurdi- ty, need not be alarmed at the advances of the well meaning Yankee ; the latter has his share of pride, and that not a trifling one ; and he is the last man in the world, to force his acquaintance where there is the
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slightest chance of its being unwelcome. I allow, that some things here are startling enough at first, and I confess that I did not quite like hearing my maid called, " the lady that waits upon you." One is also cer- tainly apt to imagine undue familiarities and disrespect, where nothing of the kind is intended : but wait a little ; divest your- self of a few of the prejudices engendered and fostered by our conventional state of society, and we shall soon be less shocked, and more willing to give our friends across the water credit for good feeling, and good sense, though perhaps not for good taste. The English are too apt to assert as an un- deniable fact, that " the Americans are un- gentlemanlike ;" thus arrogating to them- selves the right of deciding upon the man- ners of a whole nation. But let us ask on what grounds they claim this exclusive cen-
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sorship ? We have, I admit, set up for our- selves a standard of refinement, and savoir faire, very different from anything we are likely to meet with in the United States ; but does it, therefore, follow that we must be right ; or that, allowing that our habits are more refined, there are not advantages in their democratic state of society, which more than counterbalance those of which we are so proud.
In aristocratic societies, where all is po- lished, there is more, much more that is false : the soft, and pleasant veil of refine- ment, in rendering vice less revolting, great- ly increases its growth ; and in a society such as ours, where the display of natural feelings is repressed by the cold rules of ceremony and what is called good breeding, great risk is run of their being extinguished altogether. The genuine kindheartedness
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of the Yankee is not checked by these cold and unnatural laws, and vice with them, being seen in all its native deformity, un- adorned and hideous, is never mistaken for what it is not, but is reprobated as it de- serves to be.
Originality, and absence of affectation, are the essential characteristics of American manners; I speak of the gentleman of the United States, when in his own country. Whatever is original, and natural, carries with it a certain respectability, but directly this is lost, indifferent imitations take its place, and the imitative American like every one else in similar circumstances, becomes ridiculous. The manners of the Americans in general, however, are not bad, and it can only be alledged against them that they have no artificial manners at all. This, in our estimation, is a grievous fault ; and it
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must be admitted, that infinite pleasure is taken by our countrymen in turning into ridicule the peculiarities of a people, of whose real excellencies they are too preju- diced to judge impartially. That the ridi- cule is returned by the Americans, and with interest, and often with as much legitimate food for its exercise, there is no doubt. The manners and habits of the English differing so essentially from their own, are not likely to escape with impunity ; and whilst the members of our aristocratic community are laughing contemptuously at the want of courtly breeding displayed by the Ameri- cans, the latter are still less lenient to our devotion to trivial etiquette, and what they consider our servile adulation of rank and station.
After all, what can be the motives which induce two great nations to be constantly
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attacking each other in this puerile way. They are on different sides of the wide At- lantic ; surely there is room enough in the world for both. The hostile feeling, existing between the countries, is kept alive by the constant attacks of authors, many of whom are ignorant of the nature of really good society. These people cross the Atlantic from the east and west ; a clever, but possi- bly an underbred English writer, makes a tour of the States, sees absolutely nothing of good American society, and publishes a book, criticising that of which he or she is totally unqualified to give an opinion. This work is then sent across the Atlantic, as a faithful picture of the habits and national characteristics of a great nation. Upon this, there follows squib after squib from either side. The great features of national character are disregarded, and the points VOL. II.
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of attack are small personal defects, faults of language, and coarseness of behaviour. Animosity is excited in both nations, for who can deny that ridicule is harder to bear than abuse. Neither the English, nor the Americans, find it easy to forgive an affront, and the feeling of jealousy, and suspicion, once thoroughly aroused, it will I fear be long before it is allayed. Owing to this in- veterate feeling, the English traveller in the States finds the greatest difficulty in arriv- ing at truth; whilst the American in Eng- land sees everything through a mental vision, distorted by prejudice, jealousy, and vindictiveness.
One of the principal charges brought against our friends across the Atlantic is, that they are in the habit of boasting, both of themselves and their country, in an in- discriminate and offensive manner. If we
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were not endowed with a considerable share of pride ourselves, we should not complain so much when we meet with it in others; for that which renders the va- nity of others so insupportable, is that it wounds our own.
The Americans are proud, and justly so, of their self-earned freedom, of the liberal constitution of their country, and of the place in the scale of nations in which their own exertions have placed them. It is un- fortunate, however, that they cannot bear their honours meekly, but do injury to their own, and their country's cause, by their habits of exaggeration and self- praise. There is a want of quiet and ge- nuine dignity about the American's sense of freedom and equality. If he feels that the advantages he thus enjoys are great, let him value them in silence, and let
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their fruits be seen. The Americans, how- ever, would not be half so boastful, did they feel that they were correctly judged, and rightly appreciated by us. That they will be so in time, I have little doubt, but time must elapse before either party will be softened. It is a good genuine brotherly hatred, the strongest of any when it once takes root, because, in fraternal feuds, jealousy has al- ways more or less a share.
But it is not only in their personal habits, that the Americans find themselves exposed to attack and criticism. A strong feeling against their good faith and trustworthiness certainly exists, both as regards their public and private relati In this respect, I can make but few remarks, and those certainly cannot be in their justification. Amongst themselves, it is well known that there hardly exists a man, who for the sake of
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realizing a profit, be it ever so small, will scruple to employ any means in his power to overreach his neighbour. This being known and acknowledged, it excites among themselves neither fear nor indignation ; the struggle between these acute calculators becomes neither more nor less than a keen encounter of their wits, in which honour, and high feeling have no share.
It is true that both parties, (where the means employed are no secret) start upon equal terms; but such freedom of action, (to speak of it in the mildest terms) must, to a certain degree, blunt the susceptibi- lities, and cause an absence of gentle- manly and honourable feeling in their money concerns, both public and pri- vate. Notwithstanding all this, I believe that such better feelings do exist, and I am convinced, that in proportion as an Ameri-
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can will exert all his energies to shave his adversary on change, so he will be true as steel to the friend, whom he has once ad- mitted to his confidence.
The only apparent aristocracy in the United States is that of wealth, and heaven knows the idol is in no want of worship- pers. It has, however, been impossible for even this democratic and money-making people to root out of their English natures their respect for rank, and their zeal for personal aggrandisement. They have a way of talking about titles and hereditary distinctions, from royalty to the last made peer, which is meant to mark their con- tempt for such aristocratic follies. It is done, too, with a bravado, which is often intended to shock the prejudices of their English auditors. The very frequency of their recurrence to these topics, however,
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sufficiently marks the degree of importance which they attach to them. I saw instances of this without end, and even heard of an American gentleman, who, being confined to his bed during a long illness, seriously amused himself with reading the Peerage from beginning to end ! In short, I should say, that no people bend the knee lower at the shrine of hereditary rank than the Americans ; and I verily believe, that if Queen Victoria were to take an excursion across the Atlantic, a circumstance which, in these days of locomotive Sovereigns seems not quite impossible, her Majesty might travel from New York to Virginny, with true-hearted Yankees harnessed to her travelling carriage. I do not know, however, if I could venture to affirm as much, if royalty were to pay them a visit under any other form than that of youth and beauty.
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I think it is De Tocqueville who re- marks on the fondness of the Americans generally for tracing back their origin to the first colonists of the country ; and cer- tainly, with all their jealousy of the Mother Country, they are exceedingly proud of their Anglo-Saxon origin. I have also no- ticed, that notwithstanding the very equality of which the Yankee so frequently boasts, as marking the superiority of his own nation over that of every other people, he is most anxious to disclaim the existence of in his own person. By some means or other, he is always attempting to prove that he is a splendid exception to the general rule, and that he is a great man on his own account, - a very triton among the minnows.
Another petty cause of still more trivial quarrels, is a habit to which the Americans are remarkably addicted, namely, that of
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drawing incessant comparisons between the two countries. If the institutions, the ha- bits, or even the public characters of Great Britain are under discussion, an American immediately sets to work to find some pa- rallel in his own country, the merits of which he hopes will throw those of the op- posite party into the shade. Violent and provoking language is often the result of this injudicious conduct ; and unfortu- nately, even in private society, and in the presence of ladies, they are too apt to lead the conversation to these unsafe and disa- greeable subjects. As an instance of this, an American gentleman one evening said to me, speaking of the apartment in which we were sitting, "I expect now, you've not such lofty rooms as these, Ma'am, in the Old Country ?" And then again, " Why now, don't you diet in public at the hotel ?
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you mightn't do it in England, but here we never do insult our females." It is difficult, in offering an opinion on the American people, to avoid giving offence to one side or the other. Few travellers in the United States will venture to be sincere in their remarks. The English are not satisfied if the dish of American abuse served up to them, is insufficient to satisfy the cravings of their appetite, whilst the Yankees are equally indignant, if they are spoken of in any other terms, than as the " greatest na- tion on the face of God's airth." Of their public debts I have said enough, and will only add, that they cannot expect to be po- pular in England, so long as thousands are losers by their dishonesty. On the other hand, both parties should remember that they are descended from the same parent stock, and this ought to be a motive, as soon
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as possible, for burying their grievances in oblivion. The national character of the Americans is the same as our own ; changed, however, and modified by a widely different form of government, and habits exclusively commercial. That these habits are among those that " tame great nations," there is no question ; and I fear it is equally true, that when "men change swords for ledgers," "ennobling thoughts depart." In some respects, they may be bet- ter than those who live in the land of their fathers, and in others worse; let us, there- fore, hope for peace between them.
For my own part, I confess that after a short residence, I entertained towards the inhabitants of this fine specimen of an American city, very different feelings from those with which I entered it. It is true, indeed, that my experience of
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their character, and my time for observa- tion, were both limited; still, during the season of our residence, thousands met at New Orleans from all parts of the Ame- rican Union. This is always the case during the winter and business months ; and I was informed, that perhaps no where could so good an opportunity be found, for strangers to see a considerable variety of character and incident. The Americans are, I should say, hospitable, warm-hearted, and generous ; and inclined to be so most parti- cularly to the English who visit their city.
As for the middle and lower classes, (for, notwithstanding their boasted equality, such distinctions do, and must exist) I should pronounce them to be far superior, both in education, conduct, and address, to the corresponding class in our own country. The knowledge which each man possesses,
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that he may, by good conduct and superior attainments, raise himself to the highest consideration enjoyed among his country- men, must, in almost all cases, have the effect of stimulating the mind to good and useful endeavours, and preventing the in- crease of disorderly, idle and useless mem- bers of the community.
Our intention, in returning to New Orleans, had been to ascend the Mississippi to a consi- derable distance, and thus to see as much as we could in a short time of this wonderful river, and the great and rising cities on its banks. Our purpose was defeated, by hearing unsatisfactory accounts of the state of the country ; the snows and ice not being sufficiently melted to render travel- ling agreeable. I was extremely disap- pointed at finding that my plan for making a northern tour could not be carried into
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execution. It is, however, only postponed ; and I hope at some future time to extend my knowledge of America beyond its pre- sent narrow limits. I have said, that in Louisiana the nature of the people is kind and liberal, - what it may be in the northern states, where the climate, and other causes, may contribute to chill the feelings, and deaden the quick impulses, I have yet to learn.
I can hardly imagine a more pleasurable excursion than that of ascending or de- scending the Mississippi, in one of their great river steamers. I went on board one of the largest, the Missouri, before we left, and was really astonished at the comfort of the interior. There is so much room for every one, such space for walking exercise, that confinement in her would, I think, be no punishment, even for a considerable
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time. And then there would be the con- stant variety of scenery, the change of place - all delightful. But the time has come when we must take our leave. I see the little fleet forming the Texan navy busy in making preparations for a warlike cruise ; and I hear our men singing and joking, in their delight at the prospect of a change. The order is given to weigh an- chor, and we float down the stream once more. As we approached the mouth of the south-west pass, we perceived two large cotton vessels bound for Liverpool, and drawing about sixteen feet of water, stick- ing fast in the mud. We were told that they had been in the same situation three weeks, and that it was not unusual for vessels to remain there double that time. They looked very forlorn and un- comfortable.
CHAPTER V.
SECOND ARRIVAL AT GALVESTON. TEXAN NEWS. THE ELLEN FRANKLAND STEAMER'S VOYAGE UP THE TRI- NITY RIVER. ITS IMPORTANCE. STATE OF COM- MERCE. CAPACITY OF GALVESTON HARBOUR. FALSE ACCOUNTS OF CRIME IN TEXAS. FORTUNE-GETTING PROPENSITY.
Nor will life's stream for observation stay, It hurries all too fast to mark their way : In vain sedate reflections we would make, When half our knowledge we must snatch, not take.
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