USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 2 > Part 2
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12
26
of Indians on this continent must hate the whites, with a bitter hatred, no one can doubt. On every occasion they have bro- ken faith with them, and have made them- selves lords of the soil, by stealing their birth-right from the original inhabitants. Gradually, but surely, have the aboriginal Indians disappeared from the face of the world, driven out by the progress of civiliza- tion. It is not that by inter-marriages, and other causes, the generation of red men becomes insensibly mingled with the whites, but that by some inevitable decree of provi- dence they dwindle away, and are lost to the world for ever. All these things are wonderful, and past finding out.
The Florida Indians are passionately ad- dicted to hunting, and by this means they provide themselves and their families with food. Deer, bear, and wolfs' skins, besides
27
bees wax and venison, are articles they sell to strangers. They traffic also in squirrels' skins, which are beautiful and very valuable ; in short could the Florida Indians overcome their longing to be free, they might live in comfort enough. Those we saw at New Orleans, amounted in number to about two hundred, and they were constantly being augmented by fresh captures.
The poor creatures were kept in the bar- racks, which are situated about three miles from the city on the banks of the river. They were allowed the free range of the barrack yard, but limited enough must such a liberty have appeared to them, ac- customed to the free air of their native woods. We paid them several visits after their arrival, and the sight interested me extremely. They were most of them fine athletic looking men, muscular, and well
28
proportioned. I should say that they more resembled the Gypsies we are in the habit of seeing in Europe, than any other people. Their complexion is of the same dark hue, and their hair long, straight, and shining. Some of the warriors were still in their paint; a hideous conbination of colours which covered their bodies ; red being the most prevailing tint. The squaws were not remarkable for their personal charms; I saw but one who could be pronounced, in the least degree, pretty. She was very young, almost a child in appearance, and bore her infant on her back ; she was nest- ling at the feet of a young and fine looking warrior, the son, I was told, of a great chief. Occasionally she raised her dark expressive eyes to his face, not presuming to address him ; but watching his movements, and an- ticipating his wishes, with the patience and
29
submission peculiar to the Indian wife. The rest of the women were employed in various ways. They were evidently considered as infinitely inferior to their lords in the scale of humanity, and all the menial offices were left to them to perform. Their mode of bruizing the Indian corn, which forms their principal article of food, is by beating the grain in a large wooden trough, with heavy pieces of wood. It must have been very hard labour, yet the squaws per- formed it without receiving the slightest assistance from the men, who, I have no doubt, would have felt themselves degraded, had they lent a hand to the work. Others of these hard working females were boiling potatoes for the daily meal, and one and all bore upon their backs a little patient infant. The poor little creatures were tightly swath- ed, like diminutive mummies, and had no
30
power to move any part of their persons, excepting their large round eyes, which kept staring about in restless activity. There were a number of children of all ages and sizes playing about, and most of them were pretty and interesting.
I was very much struck by the extreme gravity and silence preserved by the whole party, men and women. Even in their amusements, the same dignified composure was visible. We often found the young men playing at a game, which greatly resem- bled the old English sport called " Hockey." They displayed much skill and activity at this exercise : the old men in the mean- time looking gravely on. Some of the warriors were stretched on the ground wrapped in their blankets, while others were leaning, with folded arms, against the walls.
31
Among the prisoners was a great chief and warrior. His name was " Tiger Tail," and it was one that had often spread terror and dismay amongst his enemies. The chief was now old, his strength was on the decline, and he was patiently waiting the summons of the Great Spirit, to enjoy the reward of a brave warrior, in the happy hunting grounds of the blest. But once more, however, the war whoop had sounded in his ears, and scenting the battle afar off, the aged chief prepared to tread his last war path, with the young warriors of his tribe. Gallantly they fought, but the Maniton had turned away his face from his children, and after a fierce struggle they bent their heads beneath his displeasure ; and were led away captive. During this last engagement " Ti- ger Tail" was severely wounded, and from the nature of the hurt, his sufferings must
32
have been very great. Notwithstanding this he refused every offer of surgical assist- ance, and with true Indian stoicism, looked as composed, and as mentally unsubdued, as though he were seated at the council fire of his tribe.
The skill and bravery of Tiger Tail had on former occasions caused considerable loss to the American troops, and his capture was a source of peculiar congratulation to them. During their march in the winter season, through the vast forests of Florida, they had been unavoidably subjected to much hardship ; and the children in particular must have greatly suffered. I was told (by means of an interpreter) that one poor little fellow, a boy not five years old, had been lost in the forest on their march. Three months elapsed before he was found. Dur- ing all that time he had been alone, and
33
had existed literally upon fruits and wild honey. He was a remarkably intelligent looking child, as indeed they all were : when he was discovered in the forest, the boy was in very good preservation, and seemed likely to remain so. A plump merry looking little urchin he was, and there was that in his eye that would have made a warrior in the palmy days of Indian power.
The prisoners were remarkably well fed and cared for, and on the whole did not look unhappy. They were occasionally allowed the indulgence of performing their national war dance, and this was done invariably at night. The scene was lighted up by torches, which they brandished in their hands. The stamping movement of their feet was ac- companied at intervals by the most discord- ant whoops, and the whole ballet, though
C II.
34
extremely curious, was anything but a grace- ful exhibition.
The first time we appeared amongst them, the Indians exhibited no marked signs of wonder. They looked at us ask- ance, and rather suspiciously, but once, only, did I see them roused to anything like animation. The object of their curi- osity was my sable boa, and I shall not easily forget the silent wonder with which some of the grave old hunters regarded it. One of them, without any ceremony, took it away from me, in order to examine it more closely ; a little circle was then formed, and they deliberated upon its nature, and origin. The prevalent opinion certainly was, that it was the full length tail of some animal; a creature to them unknown, on whom Nature had bestowed a " fly disperser " of unusual length and beauty. After looking at it for
35
a long time, one of them endeavoured to fasten it on the back of a brother hunter, who stood near : having done this, he pro- ceeded to curl it up in order to make it look as natural as possible. The joke was hailed by the rest with a momentary laugh, but in another second their countenances were as still, and as impassive as before. I had no idea that they could be half so fa- cetious.
We generally distributed some small coins amongst them ; money, however, they ap- peared to set but little value on. A much more acceptable present, I have no doubt, would have been some whiskey or rum. In common with all savage tribes, they were passionately fond of ardent spirits, not the least among the evils for which they have to thank their civilized successors.
I believe that it is the intention of the
36
government to send the prisoners to St. Louis, with the object of settling them in the Western Prairies.
CHAPTER III.
PUBLIC CARRIAGES. NEGRO SLAVES. THEIR HABITS AND CUSTOMS. ABSENCE OF RELIGIOUS FEELINGS AND OBSERVANCE AT NEW ORLEANS. FAVOURITE SPORTS.
STOPPAGE OF A BANK. AMERICAN CRIMPS. METHO- DICAL HABITS OF THE CITIZENS. COMMERCE OF NEW ORLEANS.
Ye men of prostrate mind ! * * * * * *
Shame on you, feeble heads to slavery prone !
WORDSWORTH.
THERE is a rail-road from New Orleans to Pontchartrain; rather an indifferent one cer- tainly, for the carriages are none of them superior to our " second class" vehicles, while there is not even the satisfaction of going quickly over the ground.
The carriages which stand in the streets for hire, are, as I before remarked, particu-
38
larly good and comfortable. They are usual- ly driven by slaves, and at a very good pace. We employed the same carriage and driver nearly every day during our stay. The for- mer was a species of calèche, and the ne- gro, who performed the office of charioteer, was the most communicative individual I ever saw. He was a very merry fellow, black as jet, and as shining as a plentiful supply of cocoa-nut oil could make him. His pockets were always full of nuts of various kinds, which he cracked and ate dur- ing the short pauses in his conversation. He often talked to us on the " Slavery ques- tion," told us how much money he had the opportunities of earning on his own account, and begged to assure us that it would by no means answer to him to be free. The re- collection of this man, induces me to say a few words upon the apparently happy life
39
led by this much pitied race at New Orleans. Among the list of grievances, I have heard it asserted that they are kept strictly apart from their " white brethren," and are evi- dently considered, by this marked separa- tion, as a degraded and inferior race. This at New Orleans is certainly not the case. I was constantly in the habit of seeing well dressed American children, evidently the offspring of respectable parents, playing with little piccaninies, as black and as curly headed as little niggers could well be. A perfect system of equality apparently existed among them, and in the course of their merry games, the laugh of the black child was as clear and ringing as that of his white play-fellow.
During our drives through the streets especially on Sundays, the display of negro finery, and taste was very remarkable. If
40
we happened to overtake a particularly well dressed individual with a Parisian coat, a glossy hat, and well varnished boots, we were sure to be surprised by seeing a black face appended to these advantages. I saw such persecuted negro slaves frequently ; they appeared to have no other occupation than that of flourishing about their gold headed canes, and fixing a glass in their eye. Gloves (which are an unusual sight at New Orleans) they generally indulged in, and with one hand gracefully placed in the coat pocket, looked worthy - behind - of figuring in the Tuilleries, or St. James's Street. No one pays higher for his outfit than the negro in the Slave States. He gives his money too, so carelessly, and with such an independent air. I have heard of their giving eighty dollars for a suit of clothes, and their industry, and efforts to
NEW ORLEANS BLACK DANDY.
41
procure money, are highly praiseworthy. They are in the habit of giving their masters a certain sum of money, (gene- rally I believe about two dollars a day) in lieu of their services. Their time, then, is their own, and they are at liberty to make as much more out of it as they can. From what I saw and heard, I am inclined to think that many of the do- mestic slaves would not accept their liberty were it offered to them. There is scarcely any spectacle more affecting in idea than that of a human being being made a matter of barter. I went to America strongly pre- judiced against this unnatural traffic, and prepared to view every instance of it with horror, and every slave with compassion and sympathy. I became, however, after a short time, somewhat moderated in my opin- ions ; and though still regarding the slave
42
trade generally, in the same light, I began to think that the slaves themselves were not quite so much to be pitied as I had ima- gined. The first time I saw a slave sold I was affected almost to tears, but after con- templating their cheerful, happy faces, and seeing how well and kindly they were gene- rally treated, I learned to view the scene with different feelings. A slave sale is in some respects a laughable sight enough. The American auctioneer is not to be out- done by that prince of auctioneers, George Robins himself, in the exercise of his voca- tion. I once saw a very small " lot " put up ; it was a poor looking creature about four feet high, and appeared certainly not much accustomed to stand in high places : he stood up, however, boldly enough, by the side of the auctioneer, dressed in the smart clothes kept for the especial purpose of
43
making the poor fellows look their best. The Auctioneer began, " This fine young man, gentlemen, is warranted to be only twenty years of age; sound in wind and limb - he has an excellent character, and a good temper. Moreover, gentlemen, he was born in the State of Mississippi, and is warranted to be a first rate field hand, and a terrible good cotton picker. It 'ud be a privilege to have him, gentlemen." All this time the object of such eloquent praise stood on the elevated platform, and instead of (as one would imagine) looking distressed and unhappy, seemed only rather bewilder- ed, and grinned throughout the ceremony from ear to ear.
There certainly is a great absence of re- ligious feeling and observance in this city. This may be attributed, in some measure, to the admixture of the Catholic and Pro-
44
testant faith, professed by its various in- habitants. There is, however, I imagine, a deeper cause for the want of religion ob- servable here. There is no religion having authority, and thus in democratic countries, and particularly among a hard-headed, and unimaginative people, like the Americans, devotional feeling becomes weakened and extinguished, when the outward observance of the rites and ceremonies of religion is in no degree a part of the government of the country. The subject altogether is too im- portant, and involves too much learned dis- quisition for me to venture to touch upon it. I can only repeat the broad fact, that religion is treated with no respect at New Orleans. I have before remarked, that Sunday is their great day of amusement. This, however, alone would not establish the fact of their negligence in religious mat-
45
ters. We do the same unfortunately in England, and in almost all parts of the Eu- ropean Continent, and should not be the first, therefore, to throw the stone. But the ceremonies of religion, church going, &c., are not thought of here ; they scarcely even think it necessary to profess a faith. This subject is one under frequent discus- sion between the wise men of the Northern and Southern States ; and numerous argu- ments arise in consequence. The former asserts, that in the north it is absolutely ne- cessary to the character of an individual, that he should be nominally a member of some religious persuasion or other. Be it Catholic or Protestant, Shaker or Qua- ker, follower of Johanna Southcote, or an Anabaptist, it did not much signify ; but one or other he must choose. He must, they say, be something; where-
46
as at New Orleans " Nobody is any- thing."
The favourite sport on Sunday is that of rifle-shooting. Thousands flock to the ground where the performance takes place, and great is the emulation excited among the aspirants for fame. The mark is a turkey, which is fastened to the flattened stump of a tree, and the distance from it to the marksman is about seventy yards. The turkies used for this purpose are brought down the Mississippi, by dozens, in flat bottomed boats. The American sportsmen failed in impressing us with a high opinion of their skill as rifle shots. They talk a great deal about it ; but that, we all know, is no proof of superiority. One of the New Orleans Society, who enjoyed the reputa- tion of being one of the best shots in the United States, shewed us a perforated tar-
47
get, of which he appeared extremely proud. He had laid a wager, that at the distance of seventy yards he would put half a dozen balls into a target; a wafer was placed in the centre, and none of the balls were to enter at a greater distance than five inches from the wafer. He had come off victo- rious in the match, and the target was laid up among his family relics, as a precious and honourable trophy of his skill. We remarked, previous to the wager being ex- plained to us, that the balls were rather wide of the centre, but his amour propre was too great to receive a check easily ; - and he it was who boasted that he could "pick off" a man at the distance of a thousand yards across the Mississippi.
A fearful tragedy was acted shortly be- fore our departure from New Orleans. A large bank stopped payment, and the an-
48
nouncement was attended by an excitement among the inhabitants almost unequalled. Men were seen rushing about through the streets, some with bags of dollars on their shoulders, and all with dismay plainly marked on their countenances. During the course of the day, the various banks in the city were emptied of their cash, but it was not till the following morning that we learnt the most painful part of the story, namely, that the president of the bank, a man much considered and re- spected in New Orleans, had committed suicide. He left his house the day that the bank broke, and twenty-four hours after was found dead in the Yellow Fever Burial Ground, having stabbed himself through the body. This sad instance of ir- religion, and moral cowardice, was the more deplorable, as the unhappy man had the
49
misfortune to possess a wife and a large fa- mily of children.
We were told that it was necessary to keep a constant watch over sailors, when in the harbour of New Orleans, as they are frequently in the habit of escaping. It was now becoming late in the business season ; a great number of the ships had sailed ; and many of those still remaining found great difficulty in procuring seamen for the voyage home. On hearing this, Mr. Hous- ton took an early opportunity of informing the crew of the Dolphin, that he had no desire of retaining any man in the vessel against his will; and that if any of the " ship's company" felt disposed to go, they had better take their departure at once, and openly, instead of skulking off at the last moment, and leaving us without suffi- cient hands to work the ship.
VOL II.
D
50
Thus prepared, we " lay upon our oars," and awaited the result. Th There is a tho- roughly organized system here for entrap- ping English sailors, who are highly valued, both as merchant and men-of-war's-men. I may here recommend the latter to read Mr. Dana's work, " Two Years before the Mast." The Americans are incessantly endeavouring to entice the men from the various ships to which they belong. The pay they offer is enormously high; thirty dollars (six pounds a month) have been frequently given, and it may be imagined that very few sailors are proof against such high bribery as this.
Merchant ships at New Orleans gene- rally have their cargo stowed by contrac- tors, who are experienced in the business, and who employ blacks and Irishmen for the purpose : the affair being arranged in
51
this manner, it becomes almost a desidera- tum with the captains of merchant-vessels to get rid of their hands as soon as possible. They are thus spared the trouble and ex- pense of keeping them during the six weeks or two months that their ships remain in the harbour. When a vessel is ready to sail, the captain has recourse to what is called a crimp, of which there are plenty, and this individual undertakes to man the ship. At two or three o'clock on the morn- ing of departure, the captain goes into the forecastle, counts over the number of heads attached to so many drunken bodies, and finding the number stipulated for, he pays the agent the promised reward, and goes off as soon as he can.
The ship is, of course, immediately taken in tow by a steam tug, and she is perhaps well out of the river before her heteroge-
52
neous crew are roused from their deep sleep of intoxication. One can fancy the absur- dity of the waking scene. Each man, having been, probably, in a state of perfect unconsciousness when taken on board, finds a difficulty in comprehending his si- tuation. The man, used to sailing in a little schooner, with perhaps but two hands on board, finds himself in a large ship, on the deep sea, with fifty strange faces around him. The fresh-water sailor, who has been for years on board the Mississippi steam-boats, and has become so used to the loud voices of their high-pressure engines, that he can hardly sleep without their lul- laby, awakes - feels himself bounding on in silence, and cannot understand how he can be moving on without noise, smoke, or jerking. In like manner, the fisherman, who had never contemplated the possibility
53
of his leaving his native river, awakes in a liner bound for Liverpool, and in bewil- dered astonishment gazes on the stupid countenances of his companions in misfor- tune. It is no uncommon thing for lands- men to pass themselves off as sailors, in order to gain the tempting wages offered to them. On one occasion, the doctor was witness to an amusing scene, in which these soi disant able bodied seamen were actors. They were going through a re- gular course of practice, to enable them to pass muster, and to prevent the immediate discovery of their trickery.
No attempts were made to prevent our men from coming in contact with bribery and corruption. Here, as in every other port that we visited during our cruize, they had permission to go on shore whenever they asked for it - half of their number were al-
54
ways away from the yacht; and it rarely happened that they broke their "leave." One day, however, to our great surprise, for we had seen no previous marks of disaf- fection, or desire for change, we were greeted by the unwelcome intelligence that two of our men were missing, and it was supposed had gone over to the Americans. They had escaped during the night, in si- lence, and without any witness, as far as we could prove. The look-out man de- clared that he had not seen them take their departure, but we could not believe him ; he felt, however, that he could not have betrayed his messmates, and we did not press for his confidence.
The two deserters were the only married men on board, and I suppose were anxious to return to their domestic comforts, as we afterwards learnt that they had taken
55
service in a merchant brig bound for Eng- land. Subsequently to this period, we con- tinually noticed well dressed men, who were evidently " crimps," endeavouring to invei- gle and entice away the men who formed the crew of the gig. Directly these men perceived us approaching, they hurried away with every mark of confusion.
Had Mr. Houston thought proper to follow the example set him, we might soon have found substitutes, by resorting to the same dishonourable means which were em- ployed in our own case. As it was, how- ever, we were not long delayed by a defi- ciency of hands. The service of an English yacht is sure to be a popular one, and the new men were pronounced active, and sharp : they were both Englishmen, and had lately served in a man-of-war.
I should say, speaking of the Americans
56
in the daily habits of their lives, that they are a particularly methodical people. The same thing is almost invariably done at the same hour, let it be " liquoring," eating soup,* going over 'Change, or entering the gambling-houses, of which, be it remem- bered, there are many. For a somewhat cold blooded people, it is marvellous to me how fond the Americans are of this species of excitement. It exists in all shapes ; and their horse races are attended more regu- larly and more energetically even than our own ; the betting, too, on these occasions, is most spirited.
Another of the remarkable points in the character of the New Orleans citizen, is, as I was informed, his fondness for duelling. The nearness of their birthplace to the
There are regular soup houses here. Their soups principally consist of oyster and gombo, the latter a root peculiar to the country, and collected by the Indians.
57
Equator, may possibly account both for this and for their gambling propensities ; the hot blood of the south having cer- tainly a little to do with these peculiar vices. I have heard it affirmed that duels take place most frequently in the hot season. At this period they are said to become irascible, and to be easily excited, and it is just as well for peaceable men to keep out of their way. In the win- ter, on the contrary, they become quiet and phlegmatic ; the cold air chills their blood, and they at once cease to be dan- gerous.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.