History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin, Part 65

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899. [from old catalog]; Union publishing company, Springfield, Ill., pub. [from old catalog]
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Springfield, Ill., Union publishing company
Number of Pages: 1298

USA > Wisconsin > Richland County > History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin > Part 65
USA > Wisconsin > Crawford County > History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin > Part 65

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

du Chien, where he found his uncle, my wife's father, who insisted on his leaving the com- pany, to whom he was indebted in the sum of $300, and loaned him the cash to pay the debt; besides furnishing him an outfit, with which he commenced trading with the Menomonee In- dians, in the vicinity of Milwaukee.

I have already told how we arrived at Mr. Juneau's trading house, where the city of Mil- waukee is built; but I did not describe the city; for it was not in existence then or even thought of, neither have I seen the city since it was built. The log house of Solomon Juneau, standing on a slight elevation back from the river,and a few neighboring cabins, belonging to half breeds and Frenchmen, who had followed his example by marrying Indian women and set- tling down, then formed the only indications of the present city of Milwaukee. Mr. Junean was the only merchant Milwaukee could then boast of and, were I so disposed, I could give a correct inventory of his entire stock contained in the old log house near the river, as it was not an immense one by any means, and had been brought down from Green Bay in one Mackin- aw boat. He had settled there first, surrounded by Indians, with whom he traded, but soon em- igration turned in his direction, and he after- wards found other neighbors, who brought with them the spirit of enterprise and advancement. The few hardy settlers who first erected their cabins near his, found him in a wilderness, the primitive state of which had never yet been disturbed by a white pioneer. South and south- west of Mr. Juneau's house, could be seen ex- tending large marshes, covered with tall swamp grass, rushes and water. The lake was about two miles distant, over the hill to the eastward; and on the west ran the river, beyond which was a wooded ridge that followed the river a distance of three miles up to the rapids, that being as far as I explored the stream. The landscape has probably altered, yet an old set- tler would recognize my description of Milwau- kee's birth place, then in embryo.

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HISTORY OF CRAWFORD COUNTY.

I left the neighborhood of Juneau's settle- ment in the summer of 1827. We engaged a passage on one of Juneau's Mackinaw boats that were about starting for Green Bay, to bring back goods; as help was not over plentiful, he was glad to avail himself of our services down the lake until the boats reached Green Bay, where others were to be engaged in our stead. It was a pleasant morning, when the two boats passed out of Milwaukee river and entered the broad bay. The sun was just rising, and though I was no sailor, yet I was charmed by the beauty of thisinland sea. A fresh breeze commenced blowing from the southwest, and taking in all but the steering oar, we rigged the leg o-mutton sails, and were soon wafted in our swift sailing Mackinaws outside the point. The boats were loaded with blankets, furs, kettles and provisions, and yet their shape was such that they maintained a degree of buoyancy, for which they were highly prized by those who used them. I have used the Mackinaw boat on the Mississippi, and consider its shape (pointed at. both ends) admirably suited for the purpose of floating a large burden against strong cur- rents.

We would land on the beach at night, and form our encampment on the white sand, where, gathering around the camp-fire we told our tales of love, hunting and adventure, sung songs, sat- isfied our appetites, and smoked, or prepared food for the next day. This camping on shore was a pleasant pastime. With no tent save the star- spangled canopy of heaven, we would wrap our- selves in our blankets on a moon light evening, and lying down amid the baggage or on the clean sand, gaze out on the lake, where the white caps sparkled in the moon beams; or looking up at the wood-clad bluffs, whose dark outlines stood in bold relief against the sky, we feasted on the romantic scenery, the mys- terious beauty of which inspired the most prac- tical among us with a deep sense of poetic feel- ing. If I ever felt poetic, it must have been during one of these night bivouacs, when listen-

ing to the beating of the waves on the beach, mingled with the melancholy notes of some night bird.

Many exciting incidents occurred during the voyage. One I will give an account of. It was carly one morning, shortly after we had left our previous nights' camping place and got about half a mile from land, that we observed a number of wolves on a point and others swimming in the lake. Their howling had at- tracted our attention, and we were wondering what possessed them, when one of the men re- marked, "Perhaps they are after deer." But where were they? This was soon found out, for some distance ahead of us on the right hand side, we discovered a large doe, that the bright- ness of the morning sun prevented us from see- ing before. She was swimming swiftly out to sea, and had evidently seen us, for she was straining every nerve to increase the distance between herself and our boat. Now I had often killed deer in the water, after having put hounds in the mountains to drive them down, but never before had I hunted with wolves. En- tering into the spirit of the thing, I examined the priming of my rifle, and took a station in the bow of the boat, as the men began to pull for the poor animal. The billows were running pretty high, but the make of the boats caused them to ride the waves without shipping a spoonful of water.

A Frenchman named Joc King was in the other boat, urging the men to exert themselves to the ntmost, that he might obtain the first shot. The two boats were about forty fathonis apart, and the distance between them and the doe, at the start, was equal. As the excitement of the race increased, the howling of the disap- pointed wolves was lost in loud shouts from the men, who propelled the rival boats through the waves that had increased in size, under the in- fluence of a northeast wind. Gaining at every pull on the struggling animal, we soon came within easy shooting distance. King now got ready to shoot, but I knew the unsteadiness of

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HISTORY OF CRAWFORD COUNTY.

the boat, together with the excitement, would cause him to miss. Confident of the result, I was perfectly willing he should have the first shot. So, just as both deer and boat rose on the crests of the waves, he brought up his gun and fired. Spang! went the gun, and whiz went the ball, ricochetting over the waters. A clean miss, by thunder! now for my turn; and as the boat glided up to the panting animal, I sent a ball through his brain, to the envy of my rival, the Frenchman, King.

King settled down near Junean, and became a resident of Milwaukee. He afterward sold some property that he had accumulated there, and removed to Rock river, where his family were living the last I heard from them.

We drew the carcass of the deer into the boat, and as the wind had increased to a gale, we concluded to run the boats on shore, and wait until the wind Inlled. By skillful management the boats were made to ride breakers, and reached the beach in safety. The place where they ran the boats ashore, was near the month of two rivers, that flowed into the lake through an outlet. Here was a handsome, broad beach of fine white sand, behind which bluffs rose abruptly; and there being an abundance of dry driftwood scattered about, the spot offered a pleasant en- campment. Lifting the baggage out of the boat, we conveyed it higher up the beach, and depos- ited it on the smooth, water-worn pebbles

The geography of this region being unknown to me, I therefore resolved to take a survey. Asking King and two others to accompany me, we ascended the barren lake bank, carrying our guns with us. Arriving at the brow after a hard pull, we enjoyed an uninterrupted view of the lake. As we looked over the vast expanse of water spread out before us, and strained our eyes along the silent shore, over which hung so much doubt and uncertainty, we felt curious to see more of the country. Continuing our ex- ploration along the southern river, we advanced into a heavily timbered country, principally pine. No timber-stealing lumbermen had then

rafted on the stream, and we took pleasure in believing that ours was the first party of white men who explored the country. We returned from our excursion into the interior at sunset, in season to join our companions in a feast of roast venison, which made a pleasant change, after living on dried meat and parched Indian corn.

We were up early in the morning, as was our custom. The lake was dark and agitated, the surf was breaking very heavily on the shore, and unwilling to venture out while the lake was so rough, we leisurely prepared and ate our morn- ing meal. The sun had risen by the time we had finished breakfast, and as the wind was go- ing down, preparations were made to start; we were soon embarked and plowing our way toward Green Bay.

Following along the coast we entered a pleas- ant bay, near the month of which were broad bars on which our men caught several trout and white fish. I had never seen these species of the finny trihe before, and the pleasure experi- enced in devouring the delicious, salmon-like flesh, is needless to describe, for they now form a dish on tables of every class, who esteem them a delicacy.

Our camp was on the northern side of the bay, under the lee of a point. On the bars and in the clear shallow water of the bay, I re- marked several large boulders; they were ap- parently composed of some rock, extraneous to that generally found in their vicinity. A query arose in my mind, where these isolated rocks were formed-how, and why similar in shape? I was of an enquiring mind, yet possessed little knowledge of the geological formation of rocks, except what observation had taaght me. The boulders could never have been formed from carth rolling down the bank, mixing with the sand, become hardened by the water, like the round stones that covered the lake shore-they were of a different texture. It was long after I had traveled on Lake Superior that the mystery was solved. When on that lake, in the neigh-

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IHISTORY OF CRAWFORD COUNTY.

borhood of the pictured rocks, it occurred to me, that there was a resemblance between de- tached portions of these rocks and those boul- ders; and it resolved itself in my mind, that those foreign rocks, found along the shores of Lake Michigan, had their origin here; owing to the action of water, or other natural causes, in early ages-perhaps at the flood-they had been rolled to the place where I saw them

Next morning while the others were loading the boats, I discovered some fine specimens of sulphurated iron ore in the lake bank. Making the men acquainted with my discovery, I got aboard and we soon doubled the point, and passed out into the lake, on our course. At each night's encampment, I was in the habit of ex- amining the bluffs, and as a general thing, found that the iron and copper ore was miner- alized by sulphur. If any geological survey has been made of the western shore of the lake, you will find my observations correet, if you consult it.

Indications of the advanced season, were be- coming perceptible. Frosts were on the ground each morning, and the lake winds were sharper. Wild geese, brant and ducks were « inging their way towards the south. These nnmistakable signs were not to be disregarded, and we made fewer stoppages and urged the boats on their destination. Coasting along the shore, we passed between the Pottawattomie island and the main land, and pulling into Green bay, took the southeast shore, and went up as far as Sturgeon bay, where we encamped. Left the camp early next morning, and by sail- ing and rowing we entered Fox river that night, and arrived at Green Bay.

As we came into the village, the inhabitants crowded around us, with evident curiosity. They were a mixed crowd I can tell you; they were Indians and half-breeds, voyageurs, Canadians, French, and to my inexpressable delight, there were also Americans-Yankees among them! In answer to my inquiry, one of these latter, an American soldier, said there were a number of

Yankees in the settlement, that the United States fort there was garrisoned with them. The commanding officer, Gen. Cass, gave us a cordial welcome, and accepting his invitation, I accompanied him to his quarters, and under his hospitable roof I had a night of rest, enjoy- ment and refreshing sleep, that only a person who has camped ont knows how to appreciate.

I had a view of Fort Howard, and Green Bay settlement next morning, by daylight. The fort contained a large garrison of soldiers, mostly rifle companies who had just arrived with Gen. Cass and Col. MeKenney .* Besides the garrison, Green Bay had a population of between 700 and 800 people, consisting of every Nation, from native Indian to the sable son of Africa; and amalgamation was not uncommon either, for all were connected by regular gra- dation of shades and color; and you might sup- pose an inhabitant's nationality to a fraction, as half-breed, a two-thirds Fox, etc. Thus you will preceive that society was a little mixed. This frequent inter-marriage had the bad effeet to make them indolent, for they evinced neither enterprise nor intelligence. They gained a livelihood like the Indians, by hunting and fish- ing, or were in the employ of a fur com- pany that monopolized their time, and pre- vented them from engaging in agricultural parsnits. And had they time and knowledge, their disposition would lead them to prefer a pipe and idleness. So it is to the sturdy enter- prise of the white settler alone, that I can at- tribute the growth and improvement that have made themselves manifest in Wisconsin since 1827, at which time emigration began to ponr into the territory.

When at Fort Howard in the year 1827, the Indian affairs had assmed a threatening aspect. Reports of murders and disturbances, had spread through the settlements. Not a strag-

*Gen. Cuss was not the commandant of Fort Howard, as Mr. Fonda supposed; but was with Col. McKenney, on u com- mission to hold a treaty with the Chippewa, Monomonee and Winnebago Indians, which they did in August, of that year, 1827; at the great Butte Des Morts.

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gler arrived but brought an exaggerated ac- count of Indian difficulties. Prairie du Chien, Juneau's settlement, Chicago, Galena and Green Bay, were then the only white settlements in the northwest, and all more or less threatened by Indians, who infested the country surround- ing them. I continued to hang around the fort, leading a sort of ranger life-sometimes accompanying the officers on their hunting tours, but refusing all proposals to enlist.

It was the winter of 1827 that the United States quarter-master, having heard of me through some of the men, with whom I was a favorite, came to me one day, and asked me if I thought I could find the way to Chicago? I told him it wasn't long since I made the trip by the lake. He said he wanted to get a person who was not afraid to carry dispatches to the military post at Fort Dearborn. I said I had heard that the Indians were still unfriendly, but I was ready to make the attempt. He directed me to make all the preparations neces- sary, and report myself at his quarters, at the earliest moment. I now began to consider the danger to be provided against, which might be classed under three heads: Cold, Indians and hunger. For the first it was only needful to supply one's person with good hunting shirts, flannel and deer-skin leggins, extra moccasins, and a Mackinaw blanket; these, with a resolute spirit, were deemed sufficient protection against the severest weather. And fortunate was he who possessed these. Hunger, except in case of getting lost, was easily avoided by laying in a pouch of parched Indian coru and jerked ven- ison. Against danger from Indians, I depend- ed on the following:

It was necessary at the time of the Winne- bago out-break, in 1827, for every man-and woman too-to be constantly on their guard against surprise. Much trouble was apprehended from the Indian tribes generally, who were jealous at the eneroachment of the emigrants, especially in the region of the lead diggings. The emigrant, settler, hunter and trapper, never

parted with their trusty rifle, either night or day. Weapons were an essential part of man's costume-his daily, yes, his constant compan- ions-they were in the hands of the traveler, the homes of the hardy squatter, and had there been any sanctuaries in the territory then, I believe they would have been found in the pul- pits. The rifle provided food for the hunter. It also executed the arbitrary law of the land -self defense, and its decrees were final. It was during such a state of affairs, that I had passed my word to carry the mail between Fort Howard at Green Bay, and Fort Dearborn, commanded by Capt. Morgan,* that stood on a point, now forming a part of the city of Chica- go. Although the danger from the Winneba- goes had abated, owing to Black Hawk's fail- ing to entice other tribes into the conspiracy against the whites, and the Indian war of 1827 ended; yet the recent troubles made me rub up my rifle, and prepare everything needful to in- sure the successful performance of the duty I was about to undertake. Carrying the mail during the depth of winter, a distance of 200 miles, through a trackless wilderness, inhabited by wild beasts and wilder red men, was attend- ed with no small danger. It will not be inap- propriate, then, to deseribe my accountrements and arms, to be used in case of emergency. My dress was a la hunter, one common to the early period, and best suited to my purpose. A smoke-tanned buck-skin hunting shirt, trimmed leggins of the same material, a wolf-skin chu- pean, with the animal's tail still attached, and moccasins of elk hide. I must of had the ap- pearance of a perfect Nimrod. My arms con- sisted of a heavy mountaineer's rifle that I had bought in St. Louis. It was rather long when I got it-the stock was bound with iron, and carved on it was a cheek piece and buffalo ball's head, that made it an efficient weapon in the hands of a strong man, even when not loaded. I, however, thought it unhandy, and had the

*Capt. Willoughby Morgan, who subsequently rose to the rank of Colonel, commanded at Prairio du Chien, and died there.

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barrel shortened, the cheek piece cut off, and a strap attached to it, so I could sling it over my back. Suspended by a strap from my shoulder, was a large horn, containing two pounds of powder. Buckled around my waist over the hunting shirt, was a belt containing a sheath knife and two pistols, one of which got lost, the other I have now-attached to the belt also, was a ponch of mink skin, wherein I carried my rifle bullets. The foregoing comprised my arms and accoutrements of offence, if we accept a short handled axe, thrust in the waist-belt.

It had been customary for the carrier who preceeded me, to be attended by a party of indi- viduals, who, for any motives might be induced to go with him. This precedent appeared to me erroneous, and had no effect in shaping my movements, for I had concluded that one per- son could pass through the country, safer from being interrupted, than a large party; yet, be- ing socially inclined, I chose a companion to go on the tramp with me. He was a Canadian named Boiseley and as he was a comrade with me for many years and figured in many inci- dents on the Mississippi, I will give a brief description of his person and appearance.

Boiseley was short, thick-set, had long arms with big hands of tremendous grasp attached, and on the whole he was a little giant in strength. His head was small and covered with coarse, black hair, and his eyes were small, black and as piercing as a rattle snake's. There was nothing prepossessing in his person, in fact, many would think him repulsive; yet this was the person I chose to go with me. Ile had been with me on one or two hunts, and re- marking in him a spirit that was capable of enduring much fatigue, a sort of intimacy had sprung up between us, and that prompted me to select him. Having neither parents nor friends -that I ever heard of-he readily consented to go anywhere with me. I directed him to exchange his dress-rags would be the best term -- for a comfortable outfit, obtained at my expense, and had the satisfaction of seeing him

transformed into a comparatively respectable looking man. He was accoutered in a style similar to myself. Hle sported a long Indian gun, and always carried a large knife, pistol and hatchet in his belt, bullet pouch and powder horn hung under his arm. To the horn were tied by sinew thongs several charms, which be believed possessed some mysterious power that preserved him from harm. Aside from this tinge of superstition, I found Boiseley was naturally intelligent and true as steel. During the many long jaunts we had together, there was only one thing about him I could not become recon- ciled to, and that was this: We would start early in the day, each carrying a pack of equal weight, and after tramping all day he would go to work and make camp, and prepare any game we had shot, without showing any evidence of fatigue; while I, a man of twice his size and ap- parent physical strength, would be so tired as not to care whether I ate at all.

It was in company with this Boiseley that I presented myself before the quarter-master, and reported ourselves ready for the start. I have not forgotten the expression depicted in the quarter-master's countenance when he saw our slender equipment. It discovered a want of confidence in our ability; but assuring him that two of us could travel as safe as a regi- ment, and with greater celerity, my logic pre- vailed, and he confirmed me in Uncle Sam's service. lle entrustsd me with the-not mail bag-but a tin canister or box of a flat shape, covered with untanned deer hide, that con- tained the dispatches and letters of the inhab- itants. Receiving these and my instructions, we departed.

We left Green Bay on foot, carrying our arms, blankets and provisions. We had to pass through a country, as then little known to white men, depending on our compass and the course of the rivers to keep the right direction. Taking an Indian trail that led in a southeasterly direction, we passed through dense pine woods, cedar swamps, now and then a grove of red oak,

HISTORY OF CRAWFORD COUNTY.

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some of which reared their heads heavenward, and had for ages braved the fury of a thousand storms. Frequently would we disturb a gang of deer that had made their "yard" in the heav- ily timbered bottoms. And as we continued to plunge deeper and deeper into the primeval forest, and to proceed further on our course, the tracks of the fisher and the mink became more frequent, and occasionally a wild cat would getits quietus in form of a rifle ball. Once, at night fall, we encamped on a branch of what I now know to have been the Centre river. This stream was a live stream, several yards in width, and was not frozen over. It made sev- eral beautiful cascades as it flowed over the rocks. Under a projecting bank, Boiseley found the water perfectly alive with trout, and taking from his pack the light camp-kettle, he dipped out a mess of splendid speckled fellows, that relished well after being fried over the camp- fire. In the evening, after collecting a huge pile of wood, we heaped the snow up to windward, and in the lee of the snow bank scattered some branches, on which we spread our blankets, and laid down with the packs beneath our heads, to listen to a serenade from the wolves. The night was spent in smoking, keeping fire and inter- vals of sleep.

Leaving the trail at this tributary or branch of Centre river. we followed the creek down to the main stream, which ran in a southeast di- rection, and then taking a southerly course, we traveled a distance of twenty miles, and then struck another river. Following this due east, through a rough, but heavily timbered country, we arrived at the bank of the lake, on the second day after striking the river. It was near sundown when we made our camp near the mouth of this stream; and again within sight of the roaring breakers a load of uncertainty was taken from me, for with such a guide there was no going astray. It was decided that we should keep along the shore, at least where it could be done without diverging from a direct line run ning north and south; all headlands and points

we crossed, instead of going around them. The roughness and difficulty of our track, on account of the icy mountains formed by the industry of the breakers and Jack Frost, made it a "hard road to travel." But trudging along through the snow, climbing over ledges of ice that in some places extended up the bank, and plunging through gullies and ravines, we managed to make good headway. Thus we continued to travel day after day, though not without variety, either of incidents, fair or foul weather, scenery, something was always exciting interest or at- tention. Oft the winter mornings would appear beautiful and serene, without a cloud to obscure the rising sun. Then as we journeyed we would see flocks of ducks and sea fowl sporting in the lake, amid pieces of ice that sparkled like crystals; and anon a fisher or otter would glide off from the ice-field where it had sought its early meal, to gain a safe retreat in some crevice of the lake bank.

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History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin, Part 65

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899. [from old catalog]; Union publishing company, Springfield, Ill., pub. [from old catalog] Publication date: 1884 Publisher: Springfield, Ill., Union publishing company Number of Pages: 1298

Author: Butterfield, Consul Willshire, 1824-1899. [from old catalog]; Union publishing company, Springfield, Ill., pub. [from old catalog]
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Springfield, Ill., Union publishing company
Number of Pages: 1298