USA > Wisconsin > Richland County > History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin > Part 66
USA > Wisconsin > Crawford County > History of Crawford and Richland counties, Wisconsin > Part 66
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It was the fournteenth day after leaving Green Bay that I arrived at Junean's settlement on the Milwaukee river, and as I had a message from Charles Larrabee to Mr. Solomon Junean, I was welcomed by him, and remained two days with him to rest and recruit. I here learned that Joseph King had returned safe with the goods, but had a hard time getting back, being caught in the equinoxial storm, and encountered rough weath- er. The Frenchmen he hired at Green Bay, had already taken Menomonee squaws, and were living in their own cabins, Mr. Junean had two children at the time, was lord paramount of the settlement, and did a good business trading with the Indians. Boiscley and I left his post to prosecute our journey. The river was frozen over, and the ice was near eight inches thick; taking this we pushed off fortwo or three miles, and moving over the frozen marshes, came on the lake shore, and crossed a wooded point on the south side of the bay; here, finding a trail ou the lake bank we followed it three days.
On the third day, as we came out on a prairie, we found ourselves near a number of Indian
28
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lodges. We wished to avoid them, but it was too late now, for the watchful cnrs of the In- dians had seen us, and commenced a ferocious barking that soon brought the Indians out in a body. We soon learned these were all Menom- onees, who had maintained friendly feelings towards the whites since the massacre of Chi- cago. There was one old chief in the village who spoke broken English, and could speak French fluently. He had been to Detroit and knew much about the white man. He was the most savage appearing Indian I ever saw; yet, he displayed so much of dignity and decision in his manner, that I retained the impression that he was a noble Indian. He was a power- fully built man, about six feet tall, and well dressed for an Indian. He wore plain moccasins, deer-skin leggins reaching to his thighs, a calico shirt, a beaded cap with three feathers of the gray eagle in it, and a green blanket. There were also three other Indians worthy of notice, but they did not attract my attention by any peculiarity, so I'll not describe them. As a whole these Indians were lazy, and staid in their lodges starving, rather than go out to hunt, though the country was teaming with deer, wild turkeys and elk. Our stay with these Indians was short, inasmuch as they had no provisions; however, they treated us kindly, and directed us to the best route, when we left them. Instead of continuing along the lake, the old chief advised us to go a little west of south un- til we arrived at the Des Plaines river, then follow that, and we would find plenty of game for food, and friendly Indians who would show ns the way to Fort Dearborn.
The land route between Green Bay and Fort Dearborn was only traveled in the winter sea- son, as then the rivers are frozen over, and offer no obstruction to traveling in a direct course. So, following the Indian's directions, we came to as smooth a road as I ever wish to see. It was the frozen surface of the Des Plaines river. This led through wide prairies and some large groves. Grouse were to be
seen budding on the trees, and we killed abundance of them as we passed along. The grouse, with now and then a fish caught in the shallow rapids, formed our only food for sev- eral days. Until a little northwest of Chicago, we met with few Indians, all as hungry as our- selves. But joining a party of thirty Potta- wattamies on their way to the Indian agency, we obtained from them a good meal of jerked venison and parched corn.
One noon we arrived at the southern termi- nus of our journey, at Fort Dearborn, after being on the way more than a month. It was in January, thirty years ago, and with the ex- ception that the fort was strengthened and garrisoned, there was no sign of improvement having gone on since my former visit. This time I was on business, and I advanced np to the sally port with a sense of my importance, was challenged by the sentry, and an orderly conducted me to the adjutant's office, where I reported myself as the bearer of dispatches for the commanding officer. Capt. Morgan was in the office, and advancing, intimated that he was that person, and took the case of letters, directing me to await his further orders. Get- ting a pass, I went outside the palisades, to a house built on the half-breed system, partly of logs and partly of boards. This house was kept by a Mr. Miller, who lived in it with his family. Here Boiseley and I put up during the time we were in the settlement.
I received my orders from Morgan about the 23d of January, and prepared to return with other letters. We started up one branch of the Chicago river, and after leaving this we fol- lowed the Des Plaines, taking pretty much the same way we had come; meeting with Indians and incidents, all of which were interesting, but only one of which I'll tell you now.
It happened that after sundown one day, as the twilight was coming on, we had arranged our camp for the night in the edge of a grove, and the cheerful camp fire was casting its rays upon the trunks of the neighboring trees, when
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Boiseley seemed attracted by something to a large oak, that stood in the light of the fire. "What's there, Boiseley ?" said I. "Come and see," said he. "Bear sign, by thunder!" I ex- claimed, approaching the tree that bore marks of having been frequently climbed by that ani- mal. "He must have been here often, and not long since, either, judging from the recent scratches." "Yes," said Boiseley, "but he has not been here to-day, for the little snow that fell last night is not tracked near the tree." "Well, that's plain, but why does he climb this tree so much?" "To get the honey, of course." "Sure enough." Knowing now that we had found a bee tree, we naturally wanted a taste of its contents. Setting to work with our axes, We commenced hacking around the roots, and the tree being hollow and quite decayed, it soon cracked, tottered, and came down with a crash across our fire. Luckily our guns and packs were leaning against a tree a short dis- tance off, and escaped damage. The tree broke near its top, the smaller part split open by the fall, disclosing a store of honey that was tempt- ing to us two hungry men. We filled the camp kettle with choice pieces of the comb, and as Boiseley was preparing a couple of grouse, (prairie-hens) for supper, I "dipped in" to the honey slightly. I have always been blessed with a good appetite, but on that occasion it must have been a little better than usual, for after eating my bird, and discussing a fair ration of dried meat and parched corn, I thought it better to fill the kettle again with honey, by way of dessert. That evening I got honey enough for a life-time. The sweet extract of a thousand prairie flowers passed from sight, but not forever. A strange sensation seized me, and were you ever sea-sick? if you were, it will be useless for me to describe what that feeling was, for you have experienced it. In the morn- ing Boiseley invited me to join him at the honey pot, but I refused; and pursuing our journey, we left the rich treat to the wild ani- mals, And since that memorable night, when
we cut down the bee-tree, I have never tasted honey without a feeling of nausea and disgust.
Stopping a short time at the Junean settle- ment on our way back, we kept on our course and arrived at Green Bay on the 29th day of February. The quarter-master at Fort Howard expressed himself satisfied with my perform- ance; and he wanted me to make another trip; but as I had seen the country, which was all I cared for, I did not desire to repeat it. Getting my pay from the department, and a liberal do- nation from the people, a portion of which I gave Boisley, I left Uncle Sam's employ and took up my old profession-a gentleman of leis- ure, and continued to practice as such until the spring came, when, with a view to extend the field of my labors, I made ready to bid good bye to Green Bay. I had formed associations and friends among the inhabitants, with whom it was hard to part. The little Frenchman, with whose extraordinarily long gun I shot the buck in the Illinois river, had married and was liv- ing in a snug little home of his own, where I was ever a welcome guest. I felt solitary and perhaps gloomy when I turned my back on the settlement, and embarked in the canoe with Boisley, for I was doubtful of bettering my con- dition by the move. But doubts could not deter me from making the venture, and with determ- ination we plied our paddles and urged the canoe up Fox river.
The route from Fort Howard to Fort Craw- ford was not an unknown one by any means; yet it was through a wilderness then new, and led through an Indian country, inhabited by a race of men naturally cruel and treacherous, who, the year previous, had begun a war of exter- mination against the whites. Tous the way was unknown, and we entered on it without other guides than a few directions from an old voyaguer in the employ of the American Fur Company, who had made the trip. I shall not speak of the incidents that befell us, nor of our several camping scenes, just now, but suffice it to say, that we continued up Fox river into Lake
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Winnebago; and carrying our canoe across the narrow portage formed by the ridge that sepa- rates the Fox and Wisconsin rivers, we launch- ed it in the latter; and were soon gliding down on its swift current, en route for the Mississippi. Proceeding on our voyage down the Wisconsin, we descried the beauties of a landscape en- hanced by the charms of summer verdure. The bluffs that towered up on either side, as they do now, had never reverberated the shrill whistle of the locomotive, neither were the banks sprinkled with promising villages; but nature remained the same as it had for ages and ages. Now and then could be seen the wigwams of the Winnebagoes, but of the habitations of the white man there were none. The pale faces up to this time, had not dared to settle on the hunt- ing grounds of the red men beyond the protect- ing influence of some fort. The whole splendid country about Madison contained but one white man, and that was Ebenezer Brigham, who had settled at Blue Mounds the year before I came to Prairie du Chien.
It was in the summer of 1828 that the canoe came out at the mouth of the Wisconsin river, and then paddling up the Mississippi for three miles, we arrived at the village of Prairie du Chien,, at that time limited to the island over the slough, consisting of the old fort, now gone, and the houses of the people in its neighbor- hood, some of which are now to be seen. As a correct description of Prairie du Chien, its ap- pearance, its inhabitatants, and its position gener- ally, at that time (thirty years ago), would be interesting, I will give it to yon; at the same time I will relate all such incidents and anec- dotes connected with the country or its princi- pal inhabitants, as they may come to mind.
On my arrival at Prairie du Chien, in June 1828, this was no insignificant point in the northwest. The establishment of a military ยท post here by the French, in an earlier day, which, as a natural consequence, caused a host of traders, camp-followers, army speculators and a mixed class generally to gather around,
made it assume a livelier tone than many would imagine. Prairie du Chien was also an im- portant point in consequence of the Indian agency then located here. Gen. Joseph M. Street was appointed Indian agent the same year I came, and he was engaged in several negotiations and treaties with different tribes of Indians, among whom he managed to pre- serve comparatively friendly relations, inducing them to part with their land to the government, strip after strip, for which he saw them paid off in cash or goods. I will not be certain that he always commanded the confidence of the Indi- ans, but he was impartial in all his dealings with them, saw the conditions of engagements faithfully fulfilled, and made the annual pay- ments promptly at the proper time. It was at these same payments, some of which I attended, that the traders and employes of the fur com- pany reaped rich harvests. There are those here now, who made the bulk of their fortunes, after these payments, in trading with the unso- phisticated Indian. This being a point most accessible to a great many tribes, they frequent- ly received their payments here, at headquar- ters. These payments are great occasions to the Indian, because he would obtain new blankets and money, wherewith to buy guns, ammuni- tion and whisky; to the trader, for he would rake in all that money, giving in exchange a very superior quality of goods, at a very small advance on first cost; and to the government, as it offered a chance for purchasing more terri- tory. An Indian payment was invariably at- tended with a great jubilee, in most cases got up at the expense of the Indians. At these frolics the Indians generally got "plenty drunk,' but the traders got all their money,. and the government got their lands. Gambling was a common thing at such times, and the Indian often returned to his village, empty handed, sans land, sans money, sans everything but a deep conviction of having been cheated. Thus it will be plainly seen that the trade carried on between the Indians and whites, was any-
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thing but advantageous to the former, while many of the dealings of the government with the Indians, threatened to embroil the frontiers in an Indian war.
Besides the Indian agency, and being a mili- tary post, there was located here the bead- quarters of the American Fur Company. This company was organized by John Jacob Astor, in the year 1809, and if memory serves me right, Joseph Rolette was the principal agent at this place when I arrived in 1828; and II. L. Dousman, who had come on the year previous, was also in the employ of the company. Of Rolette, I could relate a host of anecdotes, but space and other motives forbid. I will state, however, that his influence was considerable, his will arbitrary, and his word law. Ile held sway over the French inhabitants and royaguers, which if not really tyrannical was exacting in its requirements. At the fire over the slough, when the company's buildings were burned, a powder magazine, filled with powder, stood in close proximity to the fire. This magazine was in eminent danger from the heat and flying cinders; and to prevent a terrible explosion, it was necessary to remove the powder. Rolette taking in everything at a glance, saw need of immediate action, and thereupon ordered all those in his employ to save the powder. And although it was almost as much as life was worth, they dared not disobey that mandate, and rushing in they seized the powder kegs and carried them through the fire and smoke down to the river. This incident shows his in- fluence over the people, who feared him worse than they did death.
The Mississippi river, when I came here [in June, 1828,] was at a stage of water four and . one-half feet higher than it had been known be- fore, or has occurred during any subsequent rise. It was in June, and the site of the village was an island. To this same island, made so by too high water, was then restricted all that bore the name of Prairie du Chien. On the east of the slough, in the year 1828, there were only
five houses; the one built by J. H. Lockwood, afterwards occupied by Col. Z. Taylor, north of the present fort; one other where union block now stands; the house of one Larrivier, and two others that I cannot correctly locate.
I have said that all Prairie du Chien was in- cluded in what is now termed the main village. But at that time there were many more houses and inhabitants there than at present. It is true that the people were chiefly Canadians, Frenchmen and traders ; and their habitations were less prized for architecture than comfort, yet there was much to admire in the neighborly sociality that pervaded the early society.
For some years before 1828-9, little advance- ment or change had been going on in the ap- pearance of Prairie du Chien: Soon after, the Indian difficulties of 1827 were adjusted, and emigration increased, and settlers began to ar- rive, bringing with them seeds of progress. From that period the eastern emigrants com- meneed gathering at this point, the population increased, improvement began and prospered, until we now enjoy the blessings of the electric telegraph, railroads and reliable steam naviga- tion. The arrivals of steamboats at that early day, were like angels' visits, "few and far be- tween." Well do 1 remember in 1828, when the steamboat Red Rover, commanded by Capt. IFarris, arrived at this place. It was like the dawning of a new era, and Capt. Harris is still spared, and now commands a floating palace on the Father of waters.
The principal citizens that resided in the vil- lage thirty years ago [1828), were J. Rolette, his wife and family ; J. H. Lockwood, merchant trader, and his wife and family ; J. Brisbois, family of four sons and two daughters ; Her- cules L. Dousman ; Gen. J. M. Street and family ; E. Bailey, who built the old Prairie llouse ; F. Gallanau, F. Chenviet, and Flavin Cherrier, who were wealthy farmers. I may have omitted some others, but the remainder of the people then here, were mostly traders Cana-
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dians, in the employ of the fur company, and those who lived on the Indian trade.
It was in 1831, I think ,that I was with a few men getting out stone near Barrette's lower ferry. We lived in a cabin on the west shore of Wisconsin river. One evening, after we had gone to bed, two of the men, who had been to town for liquor, came rushing into the cabin and told us to get up, for they said the world was done ! We got up, and the awful grandeur of the sight that we witnessed I shall never forget. The air was filled with a meteoric shower of phos- phorescent light. It came down in flakes and as thick and fast as hail. It continued for some time presenting a brilliant spectacle, and giving us a pretty good idea of the judgment day. After the first surprise passed, I knew it was some natural phenomena, (although I had never before or since heard it accounted for), but it appeared strange that the fire did not burn. In the morning no trace was left of the previ- ous night's wonder.
When Taintor and Reed came here and took contracts to furnish the fort with wood, which was soon after the close of the Black Hawk War, when they were showing Black Hawk around the country, I moved upon the bluff, and went into the employ of Reed. The wood was furnished at a high price, and the con- tractors made a good profit from it. I remained on the bluff some time; finally, Reed went away, and I returned to the prairie. Uncle Ezekiel Taintor afterwards commenced to keep a store on the prairie, but the business not suiting him he discontinued it and returned to his farm, where he now lives, a respected and well-to-do citizen of Crawford.
In the year 1834, I think it was, I moved back to the prairie, into the old tavern. That year the small-pox broke out in the village; many citizens were attacked with the disease, and hundreds of the Indians then living in this vi- cinity died. My oldest son, then nine months old, was seized with disease, and recovered; but a Winnebago, whom we called Boxer, and who
acted as my clerk and sold liquor to the Indians, caught the loathsome disease and died. I will relate the manner of his death; for he was a faithful fellow, and though he took in $100 a day sometimes, he never defrauded me of a cent. I was about to move to Bloody Run, and had sent Boxer over to see if the shanty was ready, and he took his canoe and went over. It seems on his way back he felt siek, and drew his canoe up on the point of the island, east of the Run, where the fever came on, and he laid down by the water's edge to drink, and there he died. There I found him as I was going over to the Run. I buried him on the island, and can show you his grave, and say, there lie the bones of an honest Indian. I pro- ceeded to Bloody Run after burying poor Boxer, and was there taken with the small-pox myself. I laid down by a spring and remained there during the attack, four days and four nights, which time was passed in great misery, and seemed an age to me, but after the crisis passed, I was enabled to reach the prairie, where I soon regained my health, and then moved my family to Bloody Run.
In Bloody Run I lived about two years. When we first went over there, the cabin I moved into leaked, and one day I was on the roof fixing it, when I saw a deer coming down the coulee, from the north, directly towards me. I thought it was chased by something, and not being entirely recovered from my sickness, I did not get down to harm it. Soon after the deer passed I was attracted by an exclamation from my son, and looking, I saw a large gray wolf making towards him. I got down quickly and snatching up a gun loaded with small shot, that my wife had been hunting with, I advanced toward the wolf, but it did not retreat until I sent a charge of shot into its face.
Bloody Run was a great hunting ground, and Martin Scott, of whom I know many interesting anecdotes, made it it his favorite beat when in pursuit of game. From this circumstance it is said the Run derived its name, but that is an er-
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ror, for the true origin of Bloody Run is known to some old settlers now alive, and it is as fol- lows:
Bloody Run is so called, from an incident of back woods' life, which I will relate as it was told me, by a person who was born in these parts, and who is now living in Prairie du Chien. The name applies to a large ravine or valley, on the west side of the Mississippi, in Iowa, opposite Prairie du Chien, and one mile north of McGregor. A stream of pure, cool spring water, clear as a crystal and thickly skirted with a growth of timber, meanders along through the valley over its pebbly bottom to- wards the Mississippi, into which it flows. This stream winds between high wood-covered bluffs that bound the valley on either side, and at a distance of more than seven miles from its mouth, it furnishes power to run Spalding & Marsh's mill.
In that season of the year when vegetation and verdure are at their height, a picturesque sight is presented to the tourist, as he wends his way along the stream through the valley of Bloody Run. The lover of nature has never imagined a wilder, more beautiful place than was Bloody Run, when I was there in 1834. No wonder that Martin Scott chose this as his favorite hunting-ground. Ilis true sportsman instinct led him to this place, to watch for the red deer as it came down from the bluff at mid-day, to slake its thirst and cool its panting sides in the crystal waters of the run. Here it was his brag gun dealt death among the wood- cock, wood-duck and pheasants, that were very abundant in the valley; and here, too, trans- pired a scene of bloodshed that gave to this beautiful spot its ominous name.
There is scarcely a stream, point, bluff, wood, conlee or cave in the west, but has attached to it some associations that are alone peculiarly historical;and as I possessed a natural curiosity to learn the derivation of names that to me seemed peculiar, my probings have often brought to light, mines of legendary lore and antique history.
It was years ago, before the English were guided to and captured Prairie du Chien, and before the traitorous guide hid himself in a eave in Mill Conlee; when Prairie du Chien was in- habited by only a few French families and In- dian traders, that an event occurred which gave to the coulee, wherein North McGregor is now being built, the name of Bloody Run. A couple of traders lived on the prairie, named Antoine Brisbois and George Fisher, and as was the custom with those extensively en- gaged in the fur trade, these two traders had their clerks or agents, whom they supplied with goods to dispose of to the Indians. Among other clerks were two who lived with their families in Bloody Run. Their names were Smith Stock and a Mr. King. King's wife was a squaw from the Sauk tribe, while Mr. Stock and wife were English, and both families lived on a little bench or table land, about a mile and a half from the month, on the north side of the valley. Their cabin was situated a few rods west of the log house now standing, and I can show you the stones of the old-fashioned fire-place, lying where they fell after the cabin went to deeay.
The clerks had sold a quantity of goods to the Indians on credit, who were backward in cancelling the debt. Among other Indians who had got in debt for goods, was a Sauk chief, Gray Eagle .*
The chief had been refused any more credit, and would not pay for what he had really obtained. This dishonesty on the part of the chief made King impatient, and he told his wife that he would go to Gray Eagle's village, and if the chief did not pay, then he would take the chief's horse for the debt. His wife told him it would be dangerous to treat a chief that way, and warned him not to go; but he
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