USA > Alaska > History of Alaska : 1730-1885 > Part 10
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8 Sokolof omits in his account the mention of Dementief's signal after reach- ing the land, but the fact is confirmed by Chirikof's own journal in both the original, and the translation in Sammlung aller Reisbeschr., xx. 372.
9 This date is differently given by different authors; in the Sammlung the date is the 21st; the number of Savelief's companions is also variously placed at from three to six. Müller's Voyage, 41; Zap. IIydr., ix. 401.
71
TWO BOATS' CREWS LOST.
Chirikof cursed himself for permitting the sailors to appear on deck in such numbers as to frighten away the savages, and thus prevent their seizure and an exchange of prisoners. Gradually the full force of the calamity fell upon him. His men had all been seized and murdered on the spot, or were still held for a worse fate.
He was on an unknown and dangerous coast, with- out boats, and his numbers greatly reduced. A strong west wind just then sprang up and compelled him to weigh anchor and run for the open sea. His heart was very sore, for he was a humane man and warmly attached to his comrades. He cruised about the neighborhood for several days, loath to leave it, though he had given up the shore parties all as lost, and as soon as the wind permitted he again approached the point which had proved so fatal to his undertak- ing. But no trace of the lost sailors could be discov- ered. A council of officers was then called to deter- mine what next to do.10
All agreed that further attempts at discovery were out of the question, and that they should at once make for Kamchatka. With his own hand Chirikof added to the minutes of the council, " Were it not for our extraordinary misfortunes there would be ample time to prosecute the work." The Sv Pavel was then headed for the north-west, keeping the coast in sight. The want of boats prevented a landing for water, which was now dealt out in rations; they tried to catch rain and also to distil sea-water, in both of which efforts, to a certain extent, they were success- ful.
On the 31st of July, at a distance of about eighteen miles to the north, huge mountains covered with snow were seen extending apparently to the westward. The
10 Sokolof gives the date of this council as the 26th, 11 days after the dis- covery of land. Chirikof and Müller, as well as the Sammlung, make it the 27th. All accounts agree that the latitude observed on the day of the council was 58° 21'. The quantity of water on hand was then 45 casks. Müller's Voyage, 42; Zap. Hydr., ix. 402.
72
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
wind increased and veered to the westward, with rain and fog. The course was changed more to the south- ward, and on the 2d of August they again sighted land to the westward,11 but it soon disappeared in the fog.
On the 4th of September in latitude 52° 30' they discovered high land in a northerly direction, proba- bly the island of Unalaska. Two days later, after considerable westing with a favorable wind, land was again sighted in latitude 51° 30'; and on the evening of the 8th, while becalmed in a fog, they were alarmed by the roar of breakers, while soundings showed twenty-eight fathoms. Chirikof anchored with diffi- culty owing to the hard rocky bottom, and the follow- ing morning when the fog lifted he found himself in a small shallow bay less than a mile in width and surrounded by tremendous cliffs, probably Adakh Island. The mountains were barren, with here and there small patches of grass or moss. While await- ing a favorable wind, they saw seven savages come out in seven canoes, chanting invocations, and taking no notice of the presents flung to them by the Rus- sians.12 A few canoes finally approached the ship, bringing fresh water in bladders, but the bearers re- fused to mount to the deck. Chirikof in his journal describes them as well built men resembling the Tar- tars in features; not corpulent but healthy, with scarcely any beard. On their heads they wore shades made of thin boards ornamented with colors, and feathers of aquatic birds. A few also had bone carv- ings attached to their head-dress.13 Later in the day the natives came in greater numbers, fourteen kyaks, or small closed skin boats, surrounding the vessel,
11 Sokolof in Zap. Hydr., ix. 403, insists that this land was the point dis- covered by Bering 10 days before; but there can be but little doubt that it was the island of Kadiak.
12 Sokolof on the authority of Chikhachef asserts that these natives refused beads, tobacco, pipes, and other trifles, asking only for knives, but how the savages expressed this desire he does not explain, nor does he show how they knew anything about iron implements. Zup. Hydr., ix. 404.
13 Chirikof's Journal, in Imperial Naval Archives, xvi.
73
SEVERE SUFFERINGS.
which they examined with great curiosity, but they refused to go on board. Toward evening by slip- ping an anchor they got to sea, and on the 21st high land was sighted again in latitude 52° 36',14 probably the island of Attoo, the westernmost of all the Aleu- tian chain. Chirikof supposed that all the land he saw hereabout was part of the American continent; for when he pressed northward, indications of land were everywhere present, but when he turned south- ward, such indications ceased. The presence of sea- otters was frequently remarked, though they could not realize the important part this animal was to play in shaping the destinies of man in this region. The 21st of August orders were issued to cook the usual quan- tity of rye meal once a day instead of twice, and to decrease the allowance of water. As an offset an extra drink of rum was allowed.15
Despite the scurvy and general despondency disci- pline was rigidly enforced, and finally, when the water for cooking the rye meal could be spared but once a week, no complaints were heard. Yet cold, excessive moisture and hunger and thirst were making con- stant and sure inroads. By the 16th Chirikof and Chikhachef were both down with the scurvy, and one man died the same day. Five days later the captain was unable to leave his berth, but his mind remained clear and he issued his orders with regularity and precision. Midshipman Plunting was also unable to appear on deck. The ship's constable, Kachikof, died the 26th, and from that time one death followed another in quick succession. On the 6th of October Lieutenant Chikhachef and one sailor died, and on the 8th Plunting's sufferings were ended. The sails were
14 In his description of the expedition the astronomer, Croyère, becomes confused, saying that after losing sight of land on the 4th, no more was seen till the 20th, when the ship eame to anchor 200 fathoms from a mountainous coast in latitude 51° 12', where 21 canoes appeared. Sammlung, xx. 395.
15 From the journal of the mate Yelagin we learn that on the 14th there remained only 12 casks of water, and that the rye mush was furnished once a day, the other meals consisting of hard bread and butter. Salt beef was boiled in sea-water. Naval Archives, xvi.
74
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
falling in pieces owing to constant exposure to rain and snow, and the enfeebled crew was unable to re- pair them. Slowly the ship moved westward with little attempt at navigation. The last observation had been made the 2d of October, but only the longitude was found, indicating a distance of eleven degrees from the Kamchatka shore. Fortune helping them, on the morning of the 8th land appeared in the west, which proved to be the coast of Kamchatka in the vicinity of Avatcha Bay. A light contrary wind detained them for two days, and having no boats they dis- charged a cannon to bring help from the shore.
Of those who had left this harbor in the Sv Pavel less than five months before, twenty-one were lost. The pilot, Yelagin, alone of all the officers could appear on deck, and he finally brought the ship into the har- bor of Petropavlovsk, established by him the preced- ing winter. The astronomer, Croyère, who had for weeks been confined to his berth, apparently keeping alive by the constant use of strong liquor, asked to be taken ashore at once, but as soon as he was exposed to the air on deck he fell and presently expired. Chiri- kof, very ill, was landed at noon the same day.16
16 Sokolof with much national pride exults in the achievements of Chirikof, a true Russian, as against Bering the Dane. 'And thus having discovered the American coast 36 hours earlier than Bering,' he writes, 'eleven degrees of longitude farther to the east; having followed this coast three degrees farther to the north; and after having left the coast five days later than Bering, Chirikof returned to Kamchatka, eight degrees farther west than Bering's landing-place, a whole month earlier; having made on his route the same discoveries of the Aleutian Islands. During this whole time the sails were never taken in, and no supply of fresh water was obtained; they suffered equally from storms, privations, disease, and mortality-the officers as well as the men. How different were the results, and what proof do they not furnish of the superiority of the Russians in scientific navigation !' So the learner is often apt to grow bold and impudent and despise the teacher. The great Peter was not above learning navigation from Bering the Dane. Zap. Hydr., ix. 407-8.
CHAPTER V.
DEATH OF BERING.
1741-1742.
DISCOVERY BY RULE-THE LAND NOT WHERE IT OUGHT TO BE-THE AVATCHA COUNCIL SHOULD KNOW-BERING ENCOUNTERS THE MAIN- LAND AT MOUNT ST ELIAS-CLAIMS FOR THE PRIORITY OF DISCOVERY OF NORTH-WESTERNMOST AMERICA -- KYAK ISLAND-SCARCITY OF WATER -- THE RETURN VOYAGE-ILLNESS OF BERING-LONGINGS FOR HOME -- KADIAK-UKAMOK-SICKNESS AND DEATH-INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES-WAXEL'S ADVENTURE-VOWS OF THE DANE-AMCHITKA, KISHKA, SEMICHE, AND OTHER ISLANDS SEEN-AT BERING ISLAND -- WRECK OF THE 'SV PETR'-DEATH OF BERING-GATHERING SEA-OTTER SKINS-THE SURVIVORS BUILD A SMALL 'SV PETR' FROM THE WRECK -- RETURN TO KAMCHATKA-SECOND VOYAGE OF CHIRIKOF.
WE will now return to the commander. Possibly we might imagine Chirikof easily reconciled to a separation from his superior, who, instead of striking out intelligently for the achievement of a purpose, allowed himself to be carried hither and thither by omnipotent winds and imperial instructions. But not so Bering. With the loss of Chirikof and the Sv Pavel his right arm was gone. For a whole day he drifted in a strong gale under reefed sails before he would leave the spot to take the direction in which he supposed Chirikof to be. Then he was obliged to lie to again, and on the morning of the 22d, finding himself twelve leagues south of the point of separa- tion, it was concluded in a council of officers to aban- don further search and resume their course, not the last course of east by north as it should have been, but to the southward till latitude 46° was reached, where they had already been and seen nothing. It
( 75 )
76
DEATH OF BERING.
was now evident that Bering was becoming incompe- tent; that, deprived of the assistance of Chirikof's stronger mind and sounder judgment, he intended to follow strictly the resolutions of the Avatcha council. He would steer south-east by east to latitude 46°, then change the course to east by north, and thus waste in mid-ocean the brief days of the short northern summer. The 24th saw Bering at the southernmost point named, where numbers of birds seemed to indicate land ahead, and tempted him to continue to latitude 45° 16', when finding nothing, and convinced for a second time of the inaccuracy of Croyère's chart, he again bent his course east by north, which was changed the third day to north- north-east to compensate for having gone below latitude 46°. The wind changed repeatedly from south-west to south-east, being always light and ac- companied with clouds and fogs; but nothing special occurred until the 9th of July, when a strong east- erly wind compelled them to head more to the north until they reached latitude 51° 30'. The wind then changed, allowing them to steer north-east by east. From time to time they were misled by land-floating drift, and weeds, and marine mammals, but the lead indicated a depth of between one hundred and ninety and two hundred fathoms.
The second month was now at hand, and Bering ordered a reduced allowance of water. From the 12th of July he was so firmly convinced of the close prox- imity of land that he hove to at night lest he should run aground. Five weeks had elapsed since the Sv Petr had left Avatcha Bay and the ship's log showed that forty-six degrees of longitude separated them from their point of departure, and still the land remained invisible. The wind became more favorable, blowing from the west, and Bering concluded to change his course to the northward in order to fall in the sooner with the land.
On the 13th, in latitude 54° 30', in a council of
77
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TRACES OF BERING AND CHIRIKOF
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TRACES OF CHIRIKOF AND BERING,
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78
DEATH OF BERING.
officers, another change to north-north-east was deter- mined on. These frequent changes and the general indecision in the management of the expedition proved almost fatal; but about noon of the 16th, in latitude 58° 14', the lockout reported a towering peak and a high chain of snow-covered mountains, without doubt Mount St Elias, and the extending range. A north
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ISLAND OF ST ELVAS
KYAK ISLAND
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KYAK ISLAND.
wind held them off from the point first seen, but on the evening of the 20th they came upon an island in 59° 40',1 which was Kyak, but which they called St Elias from the day.
1 In his calculation of latitude Bering was seven minutes in error, while in longitude he was eight degrees out of the way. Such a difference may be accounted for on the ground that Bering's observations were based upon dead
79
THE FIRST DISCOVERER.
It will be remembered that Chirikof found land on the night of the 15th while Bering saw Mount St Elias at noon of the 16th, which would give the former priority in the honor of discovery by say thirty-six hours.2 But even Chirikof, who amongst Russians was the noblest and most chivalrous of them all, if we may believe the story of Gvozdef, may not justly set up the claim as first discoverer of north-western- most America. True, Gvozdef saw only what any one might see in sailing through the strait of Bering- he says he saw or found himself on the land opposite to Asia. Other Europeans had passed that way before Gvozdef, and the savages had crossed and re- crossed before ever Europeans were there; so we may well enough leave out these two sides of the northern strait, and call Chirikof the first discoverer of land opposite Kamchatka, which it was the object of this imperial expedition to find, and which he certainly was the first to achieve.
After these years of preparation and weeks of tempest-tossing we should expect to see the Dane de- lighted on reaching the grand consummation of the united ambitions of monarchs and mariners. But if
reckoning, without allowing for the ocean and tidal currents which in those waters often cause a gain or loss of seven leagues a day. The identity of Kyak is established by comparing Bering's with Cook's observations which would be cnough even if the chart appended to Khitrof's journal had not been preserved. At first both Cook and Vancouver thought it Yakutat Bay, which they named after Bering, but both changed their minds. As late as 1787 the Russian admiralty college declared that the island of Tzukli (Mon- tague of Vancouver) was the point of Bering's discovery, but Admiral Sary- chef, who examined the journals of the expedition, pointed at once to Kyak Island as the only point to which the description of Bering and Steller could apply. Sarychef made one mistake in applying the name of Cape St Elias to the nearest point of the mainland called Cape Suckling by Cook. Zap. Hydr., ix. 383-4.
2 The date of Bering's discovery, or the day when land was first sighted by his lookout, has been variously stated. Müller makes it the 20th of July, and Steller the 18th; the 16th is in accordance with Bering's journal, and according to Bering's observation the latitude was 58° 28'. This date is con- firmed by a manuscript chart compiled by Petrof and Waxel with the help of the original log-books of both vessels. The claim set up by certain Spanish writers in favor of Francisco Gali as first discoverer of this region is based on a misprint in an early account of his voyage. For particulars see Hist. Cal., i., this series.
80
DEATH OF BERING.
we may believe Steller, when his officers gathered round with their congratulations Bering shrugged his shoulders as he glanced at the rugged shore and said, " A great discovery no doubt, and the accomplishment of all our desires; but who knows where we are, when we shall see Russia, and what we shall have to eat in the mean time?"3
Beating up with a light wind Bering succeeded in gaining anchorage on a clay bottom under the lee of the island in twenty-two fathoms. Two boats were sent ashore, one under Khitrof to reconnoitre, and another in which was Steller in search of water. Khitrof found among the small islands in the gulf a good harbor. He saw some rude deserted huts whose owners had probably retreated on the approach of the Russians. The habitations were constructed of logs and rough planks, and were roofed with bark and dried grass. A few semi-subterranean structures of sods evidently served as storehouses. On entering, the Russians picked up some rough cordage, a whetstone on which copper implements had been sharpened, a small box of poplar wood, a rattle made of baked clay, several broken arrows, and articles of household fur- niture.4 In another place the men came upon a cellar in which was a quantity of dried salmon. Of this Khitrof took two bundles. There were several red foxes which seemed not at all frightened at the sight of the Russians. To compensate the natives for the fish taken, some trifles of Russian manufacture, tobacco and clay pipes, were left.
Steller's party landed on another island and found a· cellar or subterranean storehouse with some red salmon, and herbs dressed in a manner customary with the Kamchatkans. He also found ropes made of sea-weed, and various household utensils. Going inland he came to a place where some savages had been eating, and had left there an arrow and an in-
3 Steller's Diary, 190.
4 For full description of these people see Native Races, i., this series.
81
STELLER'S DISAPPOINTMENT.
strument for lighting fire by friction. Steller also gathered plants to analyze on shipboard. He regretted that no more time was granted him in which to ex- amine the American coast, his whole stay covering only six hours, while the sailors were filling the water- casks.5 The latter reported having found two fire- places lately in use. They saw pieces of hewn wood, and the tracks of a man in the grass; some smoked fish was also brought on board and was found quite palatable.
Early next morning, the 21st of July, contrary to his custom Bering came on deck and ordered anchor- up. It was no use for the officers to call attention to the yet unfilled water-casks, or beg to see something- of the country they had found. The Dane was deaf alike to argument and entreaty. For once during the voyage he was firm. He and a hundred others had been working for the past eight years to the one end of seeing that land; and now having seen it, that was the end of it; he desired to go home. It would have been as well for him had he tarried long enough at least to fill his water-casks.
Dense clouds obscured the sky as Bering began his return voyage, and rain fell incessantly. Dismal forces were closing in round the Dane, to whom Russia was very far away indeed. By soundings a westerly course was shaped along a depth of from forty to fifty fathoms, by which means he was enabled to avoid the coast he could not see. On the 25th the general opinion in council was that by steering to the south-
5 Steller in vain begged the commander to let him have a small boat and a few men with which to examine the place. Perched upon a steep rock the enthusiastic scientist was taking in as much as possible of America when the crusty Dane ordered him aboard if he would not be left. In his journal, edited by Pallas, Steller describes the situation as follows: 'On descending the mountain, covered with a vast forest without any trace of road or trail, I found it impossible to make my way through the thicket and consequently reascended; looking mournfully at the limits of my observation I turned my eyes toward the continent which it was not in my power to explore, and observed at the distance of a few versts a smoke ascending from a wooded eminence. Again receiving a positive order to join the ship I returned mourn- fully with my collection.' Pallas, Steller's Journal, passim.
HIST. ALASKA. 6
82
DEATH OF BERING.
west the coast of Kamchatka must be finally reached. Easterly winds drove the vessel to within a short distance of some shore invisible through the fog, and the greatest caution had to be observed in keeping away from the banks and shoals indicated by the soundings. On the 26th land was made once more, probably the coast of Kadiak, but an easterly wind and shallow water prevented a landing. Too much land now, to avoid which a more direct course south was taken; but progress was impeded by the numer- ous islands which skirted the continent, hidden in im- penetrable fog.
On the 30th an island was discovered which Bering named Tumannoi, or Foggy Island, but no landing was made.6 Little progress was made among the islands in August, owing to the thick mist and con- trary winds. As the water gave out and scurvy came the ship once more found itself among a labyrinth of islands with high peaks looming in the distance. The largest then in view was named Eudokia. A small supply of water, consisting of a few casks only, was obtained there, the heavy surf making the landing dangerous. At a new council held the 10th, in lati- tude 53°, to which petty officers were admitted, it was determined that as it had been decided to return to Kamchatka at the end of September, and it was then already near the middle of August, and the harbor of Petropavlovsk was at least 1,600 miles distant, while twenty-six of the company were ill, a further explora- tion of the American coast had become impracticable, and it was necessary to proceed to the parallel of Petropavlovsk, and then sail westward to Kamchatka.
Now, it is very plain to one having a knowledge of the currents that it was much easier to make such a resolution than to carry it out. Further than this, all
6 The charts of the imperial academy at St Petersburg, in the last quarter of the eighteenth century, located this point variously as a portion of Kadiak and as the island of Trinidad, of the Spanish discoverers. It is now known that Foggy Island was Ukamok, named Chirikof Island by Vancouver, in latitude 55° 48'.
83
ILLNESS OF THE COMMANDER.
attempts to proceed to the westward were baffled by the barrier of land. Then they must have water, and so they anchored on the 30th, at a group of islands in latitude 54° 48'. Here the first death occurred-a sailor named Shumagin succumbed to scurvy. His name was given to the island, and a supply of brackish water was obtained."
The commander now fell ill, and was soon confined to his cabin. The Sv Petr was at this place six days. One night a fire had been observed on a small island toward the north-east, and while the larger boats were engaged in watering, Khitrof went there with five men, but only, after a long pull, to find the people gone. In attempting to return, a strong head-wind threw them upon the beach of another island, and kept them there till the 2d of September, when they were relieved by the larger boat. During the next two days several unsuccessful attempts were made to proceed, for the ship's position was perilous. After a violent storm, which lasted all night, loud voices were heard on the nearest island on the morning of the 5th. A fire was plainly visible, and to the great joy of the discoverers two canoes, each containing a native, advanced toward the ship. They stopped, however, at a considerable distance displaying sticks adorned with eagles' feathers; and with gestures in- vited the Russians to come ashore. The latter, on the other hand, threw presents to the savages, and endeavored to induce them to approach the vessel, but in vain. After gazing with mingled wonder and dread for a time at the strange craft, the natives pad- dled for the shore.
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