USA > Alaska > History of Alaska : 1730-1885 > Part 43
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During his stay in Kadiak, Lisiansky visited sev- eral of the settlements on that island, concerning which he gives some interesting details. The entire population apart from the Russians he estimates at only four thousand,18 and remarks that according to the report of the oldest inhabitants it had decreased by one half since the arrival of the Russians. The wholesale mortality which had thus prevailed since Shelikof landed there in 1784 was mainly due to dis- eases introduced by the invaders, and to the severe toil and hardship to which the natives were exposed dur- ing the long hunting expeditions required of them by
17 Banner was ordered to supply the Neva with all the fish and game needed, and all the cattle that could be spared. On board the ship were two Kolosh prisoners. Baranof sent instructions to keep them confined in the stockade at St Paul, and make them work along with the Aleuts, who were placed there for punishment. Khlebnikof, Shizn. Baranova, 89.
18 His calculation is based on the number of barabaras in the several dis- tricts, and these he found to be 202. Allowing 18 persons to each barabara, we have a total of 3,636, the remainder consisting of Aleuts in the com- pany's service. Voy. round World, 193. This is probably near the truth, for a census list lodged in the office of the directors at St Petersburg in 1804 gives 4,834 as the population of Kadiak and the adjacent islands about that date, against 6,519 in 1795. Delarof in 1790 places the number as low as 3,000, and Baranof and Banner in 1805 state that there were only 450 men in Kadiak capable of labor. Langsdorff, who was at Kadiak in the latter year, is inclined to believe that the number of men fit for work or hunting did not exceed 500. Voy. and Trav., part ii. 60.
433
POVERTY OF THE NATIVES.
their task-masters.19 Other causes were the destruc- tion of the sea-otter, on which they had been accus- tomed to rely for food during winter, and their neg- lect to lay in a stock of dried salmon for the season of scarcity. In winter and early spring the islanders lived mainly on shell-fish, and this in a country where, between the months of May and October, salmon could be taken out of the rivers by hand, and sea- bears20 could catch them in their paws so easily that they devoured only the head, and threw away the remainder.
On visiting Igak on the 24th of March, 1805, Lisiansky reports that he found all the people in search of shell-fish along the beach, only the young children being left in the eleven filthy barabaras which formed that settlement. "After dinner," he writes, " the chief with his wife came to pay me a visit. On entering my room they crossed themselves several times, and then sat down on the floor and begged snuff. In the course of conversation their poverty was mentioned, when I endeavored to convince them that their extreme indolence was the cause of it; and I suggested various ways by which they might im- prove their situation and render life more comfort- able. I advised them to build better habitations, to lay in regularly a sufficient stock of winter provisions, which they almost always neglect, to attend more to the article of cleanliness, and lastly, to cultivate differ-
19 Langsdorff declares that he has seen the promyshleniki put the natives to a horrible death from mere caprice. Speaking of the overseers, he terms them 'Siberian malefactors or adventurers.' Both these statements are de- nied by Lisiansky, who affirms that the exiles sent to Kadiak were employed only as common laborers. 'That mistakes of this nature should be made by Langsdorff,' he remarks, 'is not to be wondered at, when we find him thus speaking of himself: " To examine a country accurately, three things are requi- site, not one of which I at this time enjoyed-leisure, serenity of mind, and convenience." To this might be added, that he was but a short time in the country of which he speaks, and was ignorant of the language both of the natives and of the Russians.' Voy. round World, 215, note.
20 Called by the Russians kotik, and belonging to the seal genus, though differing materially from the phoca vitulina, or common seal. Langsdorff's Voy., part ii. 22. Lisiansky makes a ridiculous mistake on this point. He says that the wild beasts, and especially bears, go into the river and catch these fish with their paws. Voy. round World, 192.
HIST. ALASKA. 28
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SITKA RECAPTURED.
ent culinary plants near their houses, by which they would be relieved from the trouble of collecting wild roots and herbs, which were neither so palatable nor so nutritious." 21
At Killuda Bay, a few versts south-west of Igak, Lisiansky landed at a settlement, " in which," he says, "we found only women and children, the men be- longing to it having been absent with Baranof since the preceding spring. Not having laid in provis- ions in sufficient quantity for the winter, these poor wretches were literally half starved. Wishing to afford them what was in my power, I distributed among them the stock of dried fish I had in the boats, and left this abode of wretchedness with no very pleasurable sensations. It was indeed a heart-rending scene to see these emaciated beings crawling out of their huts to thank me for the trifling relief I had afforded them. Though the weather was the next morning very disagreeable, I went to Drunkard's Bay, where I witnessed the same meagre traits of poverty. Of the inhabitants I purchased several curiosities, consisting of images dressed in different forms. The best were cut out of bone. They are used here as dolls. Indeed, the women who have no children keep them, I was told, to represent the wished-for infant offspring, and amuse themselves with them, as if they were real infants.
"On the 1st of April we proceeded to the harbor of Three Saints, where we arrived in the afternoon. In our way we visited a village called the Fugitive, which was in a thriving condition. The inhabitants appeared much healthier than those of Ihack22 or Killuden,23 and lived better. On our arrival, the
21 Id., 173-4. Two days later Lisiansky received a visit from a Russian who had lived in Unalaska. He reported that a volcanic island had appeared above the sea in the middle of April 1797. The news was brought by some Aleutian fishermen, who observed a great smoke issuing froin the waters. The land gradually rose above the surface, and in May of the following year an eruption occurred which was distinctly visible at a settlement on Makushin Bay, 45 miles distant. In 1799 the island was 12 miles in circumference. 22 Igak.
23 Killuda.
435
*
BERRIES AND OIL.
chief's wife brought us a basin of berries, mixed with rancid whale oil, begging us to refresh ourselves. This delicate mess, produced at a time when the ber- ries are not in season, is regarded by the islanders as no small proof of opulence. I gave this treat, however, to my Aleutians; and after distributing to- bacco and other trifles among the family, took my leave.
"The next morning, as soon as my arrival at the harbor of Three Saints was known in the neighbor- hood, several of the toyons came together to see me. After the usual compliments, and a treat of snuff on my part,24 the conversation began on the commnon topic of poverty, when I endeavored, with some earnestness, to persuade them to throw off the sloth and idleness so visible amongst them, and exert them- selves; and I stated, as I had done in a previous instance, the many comforts they would derive from habits of industry, of which they were at present per- fectly destitute. The toyons listened attentively to my advice, and assured me that they should be happy to follow it, but that there were many circumstances to prevent them; and I must confess I blushed when I heard that the principal of these was the high price fixed by the Russian Company on every necessary article, and especially its iron instruments, which ren- dered it impossible for the islanders to purchase them. While this is the case, what improvement can be ex- pected in these people?"
On the 6th Lisiansky and his party visited a settle- ment on the adjacent island of Sitkhalidak, with regard to which I give one more quotation. "Toward even- ing," he continues, "the weather becoming cold, we made a fire in the middle of our barabara, which was soon surrounded by the inhabitants, young and old They were very much amused at seeing us drinking tea; but I have no doubt were still more gratified when I ordered some dried fish to be distributed
24 Snuff is the best treat that can be offered to these people, who will often go twenty miles out of their way to get merely a pinch or two of it. Id., 179.
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SITKA RECAPTURED.
amongst them, which was a rarity at this season of the year. The master and mistress of the house were invited to partake of our beverage, and they seemed to plume themselves upon the circumstance, as if dis- tinguished by it from the rest of the party. During our tea repast, the family were at their supper, which was served up in the following manner: The cook having filled a wooden bowl with dried fish, presented it to the master of the house, who, after eating as much as he could, gave the rest to his wife. The other dishes were served up in similar order, be- ginning with the oldest of the family, who, when he had eaten his fill, gave the dish to the next in age, and he again to the next; and thus it passed in rota- tion till it came to the youngest, whose patience, as the family was numerous, must have been a little ex- hausted. Perceiving, at length, that our companions were becoming drowsy, I advised them to go to rest, which they did, wishing us several times a good night, and expressing how satisfied they were with our kind- ness.
"The next morning when I arose at daylight, and was proceeding to take a walk, I found all the men sitting on the roofs of their houses. This is their fa- vorite recreation after sleeping; though they are also fond of sitting on the beach, and looking for hours to- gether at the sea, when they have nothing else to do. In this practice they resemble more a herd of beasts than an association of reasonable beings endowed with the gift of speech Indeed, these savages, when assem- bled together, appear to have no delight in the oral in- tercourse that generally distinguishes the human race; for they never converse; on the contrary, a stupid silence reigns amongst them. I had many opportu- nities of noticing individuals of every age and degree; and I am persuaded that the simplicity of their char- acter exceeds that of any other people, and that a long time must elapse before it will undergo any very per- ceptible change. It is true, that on my entering their
437
MOVEMENTS OF THE ' NEVA.'
houses, some sort of ceremony was always observed by them; but by degrees even this so completely dis- appeared, that an Aleutian would undress himself to a state of nudity, without at all regarding my presence; though at the same moment he considered me as the greatest personage on the island."
On the 14th of June the Neva sailed from St Paul, and on the 22d of the same month entered the harbor of Novo Arkhangelsk. During Lisiansky's absence matters had prospered with the new settlement. Eight substantial buildings had been completed; the fort was also finished and mounted with cannon; a number of kitchen-gardens were under cultivation, and the live-stock were thriving. All winter the Kolosh had avoided the neighborhood, and only now and then a few small canoes appeared, whose inmates carefully scanned the movements of the Russians and then vanished quickly from sight.
On the 2d of July an interpreter was despatched by Baranof to inform them that the Neva had arrived with the hostages who had been delivered up on the cessation of hostilities.25 The demoralized savages had scattered during the winter, but now were assem- bling once more, and had built another fort on the western shore of Chatham Strait, opposite the village of Houtshnoo. The report was currentthat other tribes also were fortifying their villages, and it was feared that in time the colony would again be surrounded with dangerous neighbors. The messenger was sent back with the answer that the toyons required some assurance of good faith before placing themselves in the power of the Russians, and was again despatched on the same errand, with presents and promises of kind treatment.
25 While waiting for a reply from the enemy, Lisiansky caused a survey to be made of Norfolk Sound, and especially of the island upon which Mount Edgecumbe is situated. To this he gave the name of Kruze, now Kruzof, in honor of an admiral of that name to whom he was indebted for his prefer- ment. Id., 220-1.
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SITKA RECAPTURED.
On the afternoon of the 16th five canoes were seen approaching the fort, and as they drew near it became known that they contained the messenger and an em- bassy from the Kolosh. The Chugatsches in Baranof's camp were ordered to conduct them to the fort, play- ing the part of gentlemen ushers, as Lisiansky re- marks, and donning their holiday apparel, set forth to meet them. Some were attired only in a threadbare vest, some few in a pair of ragged breeches, while by others an old hat, or a powdering of eagle down on the hair, was considered a full-dress suit for a gentleman. When close to the beach the embassy stopped, and the savages on shore and in boat executed a dance and song, the toyon of the Kolosh being conspicuous for his nimble capering. The canoes were then pulled on shore by the Chugatsches, their inmates remaining seated, while the gentleman ushers entertained them with a second performance.
At length the ambassador and his suite were lifted from their boats and carried to their apartments, where a feast had been prepared for them. On the following day they paid a visit to the Neva, and were regaled with tea and brandy. The envoy in chief was invited into the cabin, where his son, who had been held as a hostage, was brought into his presence.26 He was surprised at the cheerful and well-fed appearance of the lad, and expressed his gratitude to the captain, but no sign of affection was shown by child or parent. After more singing and dancing, the savages returned on shore,27 and in the afternoon held an interview
26 Among the hostages were three creole youths, to whom were given the names of Andrei Klimovsky, Ivan Chernof, and Gerassin Kondakof. One of them was the ambassador's son, but, as Lisiansky says, was afterward ex- changed for a younger brother, who probably received the same name. They were subsequently placed in the school of navigation by the board of managers, and were finally returned to the colonies. Klimoffsky became a captain and commanded several vessels, while the others were appointed mates in the company's service. Kondakof died in 1820 and Klimoffsky in 1831. Baranof, Shizn., 90. The third, Chernof, survived the transfer of Alaska to the United States, dying in the year 1877. His two sons still navigate the waters of Alaska.
27 Lisiansky says: 'These people are so fond of dancing, that I never saw three of them together without their feet being in motion. Before the de-
439
TREATY WITH THE KOLOSH.
with Baranof, who presented to each a cloak 28 and a pewter medal, the latter in token of peace. Brandy was produced, the terms of the treaty were arranged,29 and all were invited to a banquet at the residence of the chief manager. The place of honor was of course given to the envoy's wife, whose evening cos- tume was a piece of red cloth thrown over her shoul- ders, and a thick coating of black paint on her face. Her coiffure was composed entirely of soot, and for ornament she wore a round piece of wood in the lower lip. It was observed that during her frequent sips of fire-water she was extremely careful of this feature, which projected at right angles from the chin, and was regarded as her greatest charm. Late at night the ambassador, his spouse, and suite were again carried to their apartments, none of them being sober enough to stand on their feet. The next day they took their leave, the chief of the embassy being presented with a staff on which were the Russian arms, wrought in copper, decorated with ribbons and eagle down. This he was told to present to his coun- trymen as a token of friendship.30
After the conclusion of the treaty with the Kolosh, Lisiansky made ready for sea, and on the 1st of Sep- tember, 1805, sailed for Canton with a cargo valued at more than four hundred and fifty thousand roubles.31
parture of the ambassador I allowed him to fire off one of our twelve-pounders, which he did with a firmness I little expected, exhibiting no surprise either at the report of the cannon or its motion.' Voy. round World, 223-4.
28 To the ambassador was given a mantle of fine red cloth trimmed with ermine, and to the rest cloaks of common blue cloth.
29 I have been unable to find any account of the terms of this treaty. Neither Lisiansky nor Baranof has a word to say about it in their reports of the affair.
30 Returning to the fort on August 16th, after an excursion to the summit of Mount Edgecumbe, Lisiansky found the ambassador there. He had re- turned to announce to the Russians his appointment as chief toyon in place of Kotlean. His new dignity had so elated his pride that he no longer deigned to use his legs, except when dancing, but was invariably carried on the shoul- ders of his attendants. Id., 232.
31 Including 3,000 sea-otter and more than 150,000 small skins. Khlebni- kof, Shizn. Baranova, 90. This authority gives August 20th as the time of the Neva's departure. With regard to date, he is constantly at variance with Lisiansky, who has been accepted as the chief authority for the statements made in this chapter.
440
SITKA RECAPTURED.
Here he arrived early in December of the same year,32 calling at Macao, where he met with Captain Krusenstern, who had arrived in the Nadeshda on his homeward voyage, Rezanof meanwhile having sailed in another vessel for Alaska. After much vexatious delay, caused by the Chinese officials, the furs were landed and sold,33 a cargo of tea, nankeens, and other goods purchased with the proceeds, and on the 4th of August, 1806, the Neva cast anchor at Kronstadt.
As soon as the news of her return was known in St Petersburg the vessel was thronged with persons of every rank, and for many days her commander was so much occupied with answering their questions and listening to their compliments" that, as he says, he had barely time to eat or sleep. Among those who visited the ship were the emperor and the empress's mother. The former complimented Lisiansky on the appearance of the Neva, and observed that her crew looked better than when they had left the shores of Russia,34 while the latter spoke a few kind words to all on board, and afterward sent presents to each of the officers and sailors.
On the 19th of the same month the Nadeshda arrived, having accomplished her voyage round the world in three years and twelve days, with the loss of only one man. 35
The two commanders received the order of St Vladimir of the third class, and a pension of 3,000 roubles a year for life.36 The other officers were pro-
32 During the voyage, it was discovered that a large portion of the skins were in an advanced stage of decomposition. Several days were occupied in sorting them and throwing overboard those that were entirely spoiled. The loss was estimated at 200,000 roubles. Lisiansky's Voy. round World, 264-6.
33 The Nadeshda was also detained at Macao by the authorities. Both cargoes were sold at low prices.
3+ Among the refreshments served to the emperor was some Russian salt beef, 'which,' Lisiansky says, 'had stood the test of the entire voyage, and was nevertheless more juicy and less salt than the Irish beef which he had lately purchased at Falmouth.'
35 Rezanof's cook, who, as Krusenstern affirms, was in an advanced stage of consumption when he went on board the ship. Voy. round World, 404, note.
36 Lisiansky also received many valuable presents from the royal family. .
441
RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION.
moted one step, with pensions of 500 to 1,000 rou- bles; and to the petty officers and sailors were given pensions of 50 to 75 roubles, with permission to retire from the service if they so desired.37 Lisiansky was raised to the rank of commander in the imperial navy, but no further promotion appears to have been con- ferred on Krusenstern.38 . He had failed in his mis-
37 Id., introd. xxx .- xxxi., note; Lisiansky, Voy. round World, 318. Langs- dorff and the scientific men who accompanied him received pensions of 300 ducats a year.
38The principal sources of information as to the recapture of Sitka and the incidents in connection with the voyage of the Nadeshda and Neva are A Voyage round the World, in 1803-6, with plates and charts, by Urey Lisiansky (translated from the Russian, London, 1814); Voyages and Travels in Various Parts of the World, in 1803-7, with sixteen plates, by G. H. von Langsdorff (in two parts, St Petersburg, 1811, and London, 1813); and Voyage round the World, in 1803-6, by A. J. von Krusenstern (3 vols, with atlas and maps, St Petersburg, 1810-14; 2 vols. London, 1813, and Paris, 1820). Lisiansky's account of the taking of the Kolosh stronghold is probably the most reliable version of this event, and is to be preferred to that of Khlebnikof, as the for- mer was an eye-witness of all that transpired, took a leading part in the operations of the expedition, and writes without any of the bias shown by Baranof's biographer, though perhaps taking a little too much credit for his own share in the achievement. The first seven chapters and a part of the eighth describe the voyage of the Neva from Kronstadt to Kadiak, and con- tain some interesting particulars about the natives of the Sandwich Islands, where the ship called on her passage. In the remainder of cap. viii. and in ix .- xii., we have an account of his travels and observations in Alaska, and of the recapture of Sitka. In the rest of the work he relates his homeward voyage. The book is entertaining, written in an easy and natural style, and evidently with more regard to truth than effect. Lisiansky was a native of Nagin, where he was born of noble parents, on the 2d of April, 1773. After completing his education at the naval academy at Kronstadt, he was appointed, when fifteen years of age, a midshipman in the Russian navy, in which capacity he served during the war with Sweden, being present at the battle of Revel, in 1790. Later, he took service in the English navy, where he first met with Krusenstern, and after travelling in the United States, re- turned to Russia in 1800, where he was appointed to the command of a frigate, and made a knight of the order of St George of the fourth class.
Krusenstern, although in command of the expedition, never visited the north-west; but, as we have seen, the despatch of the expedition was due to his efforts. The narrative of his voyage in the Nadeshda is full of interest, and by no means justifies the first part of the motto which appears on the title-page: 'Les marins écrivent mal, mais avec assez de candeur.' Between the years 1824 and 1835 he published in St Petersburg, in 3 vols, an Atlas de l'Océan Pacifique, together with his Recueil des Mémoires Hydrographiques, and in 1836 his Supplémens au Recueil de Mémoires Hydrographiques pour servir d'analyse et d'explication à l'Atlas de l'Océan Pacifique. These works are very favorably noticed in the Jour. Royal Geog. Soc. of London, 1837, vii. 406-9, wherein is a list of the more important errors contained in Arrow- smith's chart of the Pacific, which, it was claimed, had been corrected up to the year 1832, and was then considered the best in Europe. Among others is the location of the island of St Paul. 'The Supplemens,' says the Journal of the London Geographical Society, 'registers all the discoveries and newly de- termined positions that have been made in the lapse of the last thirteen years,
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SITKA RECAPTURED.
sion; but, as we shall see later, through no fault of his own.
during which more has been done towards obtaining a correct knowledge of those seas than at any time since the voyages of Cook and La Pérouse.'
Langsdorff's work is the least valuable of the three. As a savant he was superficial; as a chronicler he was biased. In neither capacity does he add much to what was already known of Russian America. The first part con- tains a narrative of his voyage to Kamchatka, thence to Japan, and back to Petropovlovsk, the incidents of which are also related in Krusenstern's work. The first five and the eleventh and twelfth chapters of the second part relate to Alaska, and the remainder of the work is taken up with his visit to Cali- fornia and his homeward journey. His statements as to the condition of the natives and the promyshleniki appear to be greatly exaggerated. They are not indorsed by any of the Alaskan annalists, and though Lisiansky gives some color to them, they are strongly at variance with the reports of Rezanof, who was a keen and impartial observer. A proof of the little value set on Langsdorff's services is the smallness of the pension granted to him on his return. He received, as will be remembered, but 300 ducats a year, and the like sum was given to his assistants, while the lieutenants and surgeons of the expedition were awarded pensions of 1,000 roubles.
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