USA > Alaska > History of Alaska : 1730-1885 > Part 9
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The position of Bering was exceedingly trying; on him must fall the odium attending the faults and misfortunes of them all. Throughout the journey, and afterward to the end, complaints were forwarded to Irkutsk, Tobolsk, and St Petersburg. That he was a foreigner made it none the less a pleasure for the Russians to curse him. The senate and admiralty college were exasperated by reason of the slow move- ment, being ignorant of the insurmountable obstacles. First among the accusers was the infamous Pisaref, who charged both Bering and Spanberg with licen- tiousness and "excessive use of tobacco and brandy." He reported that up to that time, 1737, nothing had been accomplished for the objects of the expedition, and nothing could be expected beyond loss to the imperial treasury; that the leaders of the expedition had come to Siberia only to fill their pockets, not only Bering, but his wife, who was about to return to Moscow; and that Bering had received valuable pres- ents at Irkutsk from contractors for supplies. An- other officer in exile, a captain-lieutenant of the navy, named Kozantzof, represented that Bering's force was in a state of anarchy, that all its operations were carried on at a wasteful expenditure, and that in his
59
ATTITUDE OF AFFAIRS IN OKHOTSK.
opinion nothing would come of it all. Spanberg him- self began to refuse obedience to Bering, complaining bitterly of the delay in obtaining stores for his voy- age to Japan. Bering's immediate assistant, Chirikof, received instructions from St Petersburg to inquire into some of these complaints. Another of the officers of the expedition, Plunting, being dissatisfied with Bering's non-interference in his quarrel with Pisaref, insulted the former and was tried by court-martial and sentenced to the ranks for two months. To re- venge himself, the young lieutenant sent charges to St Petersburg, reflecting on Bering's conduct, one of which was illicit manufacture of brandy and the expenditure of powder in making fireworks, as well as the "employment of the drum corps for his own amuse- ment, though there was nothing to rejoice over."
The members of the academy also became dissatis- fied and complained of abuse and ill-treatment on the part of Bering, asking to be relieved from obedience to him as commander. In 1738 the expense of the expedition, which had not then left the sea-coast, was over three hundred thousand rubles in cash paid from the imperial treasury, without counting the great quantities of supplies furnished by the various dis- tricts in kind. At this rate Alaska would cost more than it could be sold for a hundred years hence. The empress issued an oukaz on the 15th of September 1738, instructing the senate and the admiralty col- lege to review the accounts of the Kamchatka expe- dition, and ascertain if it could not be carried on without such a drain on the treasury. The senate reported that the cost thus far made it necessary to continue the work or all would be lost. Much time was wasted in correspondence on these matters, and only at the beginning of 1739 did the main body reach Okhotsk. In July an officer named Tolbukhin arrived with orders from the empress to investigate the "doings of Bering." He was followed in September by Lari- onof, another officer who had been ordered to assist
60
THE KAMCHATKA EXPEDITIONS.
him. The supply of provisions at Okhotsk was alto- gether inadequate to the large number of men stationed there. During the winter following the suffering became so great that Bering was obliged to send large detachments away to regions where they could support themselves by hunting. At that time the whole force consisted of 141 men at Okhotsk, 192 employed in the magazines and in the transportation of stores, 70 at Irkutsk, 39 in attendance upon the various officers
Buildings according to
Plan of 1738
A. Local Division
1. Church
2. Chancelry and Tribute Office
3. Pisarof' . house 4. Magasine
[Chorch 5. Navy Yard
6. Portable
B. Expeditionary Division
7. Bering's house
$.Spanberg's house,
9. Chirikof's house
10. Walton's house '11. Petrof's house 12. Barracks)
River
River
Okhota
Kukhta
15
20
8,
30
25
A
£15
B
9
8
6
10
PLAN OF OKHOTSK.
and scientists, and 141 on the three vessels already built, in all 583 men. Under Spanberg's active super- vision two vessels had been built, the brigantine, Arkh- angel Mikhaïl, and the double sloop, Nadeshda, or Hope; and two old craft, the Fortuna, reconstructed in some degree from the first of that name, and the Gavril, had been repaired. Spanberg was ready to go to sea in September, but lack of provisions detained him.16 In October the sloop Fortuna was sent to Kam-
16 According to Bering's report of November 29, 1737, the quantity of provisions on hand in all his magazines in Okhotsk and Kamchatka consisted of 10.499 pounds of flour; 1,784 lbs. grits; 249 lbs. hard bread; 659 lbs. salt; 182 lbs. dried fish; 211 lbs. butter; 48 lbs. oil; and 683 buckets of brandy. At the same time he forwarded a requisition for 1738 for: 1,912 lbs. flour; 2,566
PLAN OF THE PORT OF OKHOTSK FROM A DRAWING OF PILOT YELAGIN in 1738
6
61
ALL READY.
chatka for a cargo of pitch for the ship-building at Okhotsk. The mate Kodichef, and the surveyor Svitunof, in charge, were instructed to carry the pro- visions that had accumulated in the Kamchatkan magazines to Bolsheretsk, as the most convenient port from which to transfer them to the vessels of Bering's expedition. The student Krashennikof also went to Kamchatka in the Fortuna. On the 13th of October, when about to enter the river at Bol- sheretsk, the wretched craft was overtaken by a gale and thrown upon the shore. The future historian of Kamchatka, Krashennikof, reached the land "clad in one garment only."
Despite the apparently insurmountable difficulties resulting from want of transportation and lack of sup- plies, Bering and Chirikof found themselves in readi- ness to go to sea in the month of August 1740. At that time the number of men at Okhotsk belonging to the expedition was 166, with 80 engaged in the transportation of stores over the mountain trails. During the summer the astronomer Croyère with his suite had arrived at Okhotsk, accompanied by the naturalist Steller. Toward the end of August an event occurred that filled Bering and his officers with joy. The great stumbling-block of the expedition and its most persistent enemy, Pisaref, was relieved from his official position by another exile, Antoine Devière, a former favorite of Peter the Great, and chief of police of St Petersburg.17 According to Sgibnef, Devière was the first honorable and efficient com-
lbs. meal; 2,369 lbs. hard bread; 1,026 lbs meat; 410 lbs. fish; 554 lbs. butter; 75 lbs. oil; and 320 buckets of brandy. For the year 1739 his requisition for his own and for Spanberg's expedition was: 930 lbs. flour; 2,565 lbs. meal; 4,617 lbs. hard bread; 1,025 lbs. meat; 410 lbs. fish; 546 lbs. butter; 163 lbs. salt, and 660 buckets of brandy. With the flour it was not only necessary to make kvass, but to bake hard bread; the meal was oatmeal, which was issued because pease and barley could not be obtained. Zap. Hydr., ix. 337.
17 It was in 1738 that Antoine Devière was chief of police of the Russian capital, but falling into disgrace he was sent to Siberia. In 1741 he was made commander of Okhotsk, and in 1742 recalled to St Petersburg by Elizabeth, made a count, and restored to his former position. He died in 1745. Morskoi Sbornik, cv. 31, 33.
62
THE KAMCHATKA EXPEDITIONS.
mander of Okhotsk. He sold the property which his predecessors had dishonestly obtained, and with the proceeds paid the arrears of salaries. Under his active supervision buildings were erected, a school established, and everything arranged for a quick despatch of the American expedition.18
18 It was at the suggestion of Bering that Devière opened this the first school in Kamchatka in 1741; it was located at Bolsheretsk and began its operations with 20 pupils. Morskoi Sbornik, ci. 142.
CHAPTER IV. DISCOVERY OF ALASKA. 1740-1741.
THE DAY OF DEPARTURE-ARRIVAL OF IMPERIAL DESPATCHES-THEY SET SAIL FROM OKHOTSK-THE 'SV PETR' AND THE 'SV PAVEL'-BERING'S AND CHIRIKOF'S RESPECTIVE COMMANDS-ARRIVAL AT KAMCHATKA- WINTERING AT AVATCHA BAY-EMBARKATION-ILL-FEELING BETWEEN CHIRIKOF AND BERING-THE FINAL PARTING IN MID-OCEAN-ADVEN- TURT; OF CHIRIKOF-HE DISCOVERS THE MAINLAND OF AMERICA IN LATITUDE 55° 21'-THE MAGNIFICENCE OF HIS SURROUNDINGS-A BOAT'S CREW SENT ASHORE-ANOTHER SENT TO ITS ASSISTANCE-ALL LOST !- HEART-SICK, CHIRIKOF HOVERS ABOUT THE PLACE-AND IS FINALLY DRIVEN AWAY BY THE WIND-HE DISCOVERS UNALASKA, ADAKH, AND ATTOO-THE PRESENCE OF SEA-OTTERS NOTICED-SICK- NESS-RETURN TO AVATCHA BAY-DEATH OF CROYÈRE-ILLNESS OF CHIRIKOF.
Six years the grand expedition had occupied in crossing Siberia; no wonder subordinates swore and the imperial treasurer groaned. But now the de- voutly wished for hour had come, the happy consum- mation was at hand. New islands and new seas should pay the reckoning, while the natives of a new conti- nent should be made to bleed for all this toil and trouble.
The 15th of August 1740 had been fixed as the day of departure, but just as they were about to embark Captain Spanberg arrived from Yakutsk with the in- telligence that an imperial courier was at hand with despatches requiring answers. This delayed the ex- pedition till the 1st of September, when the double sloop with stores was despatched in advance. At the mouth of the river she ran aground, and the transfer
( 63
64
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
of cargo became necessary, after which she was again made ready. On the 8th of September the expedition finally embarked. Bering commanded the Sv Petr, and Chirikof the Sv Pavel, the two companion vessels having been named the St Peter and the St Paul. Bering's second was Lieutenant Waxel, while with Chirikof were lieutenants Chikhachef and Plunting.1 The double sloop was commanded by Master Khitrof and the galiot by second mate Rtishchef. Passengers on the double sloop were Croyère, Steller, the sur- veyor Krassilnikof, and the student Gorlanof. The vessels were all fitted out with provisions for a year and eight months, but the grounding of the double sloop caused considerable loss in both provisions and spare rigging.
In crossing the Okhotsk Sea the vessels parted com- pany, but they all reached the harbor of Bolsheretsk in safety about the middle of September. Here they landed the two members of the academy for the pur- pose of exploring the Kamchatka peninsula, and took on board the mate Yelagin. The little fleet then passed round the southern end of the peninsula to the gulf of Avatcha, where the Sv Pavel arrived the 27th of September, and the Sv Petr the 6th of October. The sloop met with a series of disasters and was com- pelled to return to Bolsheretsk on the 8th of October, and to remain there for the winter. The galiot also returned for the winter, unable to weather Cape Lo- patka so late in the season, and this rendered it neces- sary to transport supplies overland from Bolsheretsk
1 With Waxel was a young son. The other officers of the Sv Petr were Eselberg, mate; Yushin, second mate; Lagunof, commissary; Khotiaintzof, master; Jansen, boatswain; Ivanof, boatswain's mate; Rossilius, ship's con- stable; Feich, surgeon; Betge, assistant surgeon; Plenisner, artist and corporal of Cossacks; and among the sailors the former Lieut. Ovtzin, who had been reduced to the ranks. In Kamchatka the force was increased by Khitrof, the marine, and Johann Synd, a son of Feich, the father returning to St Peters- burg on account of ill-health. On the Sv Pavel were: Dementief, master; Shiganof and Yurlof, second mates; Chaglokof, commissary; Korostlef,. master; Savelief, boatswain; Kachikof, ship's constable; the monk Lau, who also served as assistant surgeon; the force being further increased in Kam- chatka by Yelagin, mate, and the marine Yurlof. The second mate Shiganof, and Yurlof, were subsequently promoted in Kamchatka.
65
DE L'ISLE'S CHART.
to Avatcha during the winter, an operation attended with great difficulties and loss.2 Bering approved of the selection of Avatcha Bay as a harbor, by Yelagin, it being the best on the coast. A few buildings had been erected, and to these the commander proceeded at once to add a church. The place was named Pe- tropavlovsk.3
Beaching his vessels for the winter, Bering secured the services of the natives for the transportation of supplies from Bolsheretsk, and then distributed his command in small detachments, requiring them to live for the most part on such game and fish as they could catch. Removed from the interference of local authorities, which had been troublesome at Okhotsk, Bering passed a quiet winter and concluded the final preparations for sea in accordance with his plans. Croyère and Steller joined him in the spring; and with the opening of navigation, in accordance with instructions, on the 4th of May 1741 the commander assembled his officers, including the astronomer, for general consultation. Each present was to give his views, and a majority was to decide. All were of opinion that the unknown shore lay either due east or north-east; but this sensible decision, the adoption of which would have saved them much suffering and disaster, was not permitted to prevail. Science in Russia was as despotic as government. The renowned astronomer De L'Isle de la Croyère had made a map presented by the imperial academy to the senate.
2 The sloop finally reached Avatcha the following summer but only after two exploring vessels had gone to sea. According to Steller a supply-ship met the vessels of the expedition in the outer harbor, and the greater portion of the cargo was transferred to the Sv Petr. Steller, Beschreibung von Kam- tschatka, i. 112. The galiot returned to Okhotsk during the summer in charge of second mate Shigonof, and carrying as passengers Krashennikof, with a valu- able collection of notes as the result of his investigations. Zap. Hydr., ix. 371. 3 According to Müller the church was dedicated to the apostles Peter and Paul, and the harbor derived its name therefrom; but subsequent investiga- tions of the local archives by Sokolof and Polonski seemed to indicate that the church, a small wooden structure, was erected in memory of the birth of the virgin, and that the harbor was named after the two ships. Its name occurs on the earliest pages of the journals of the expedition. Müller, Samm- lung russischer geschichten, i. 22; Sokolof, in Zap. Hydr., ix. 372.
HIST. ALASKA. 5
66
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
That august body had forwarded it to Bering, and the author's brother, present at the council, also had with him a copy. No land was set down upon this chart toward the east, but some distance south-east of Avatcha Bay, between latitudes 46° and 47°, there was a coast extending about 15° of longitude from west to cast. The land was drawn in such a manner as to indicate that it had been sighted on the south side, and the words Terres vues par dom Jean de Gama were inscribed upon it. The absurdity of sending out an expedition for discovery, requiring it to follow mapped imagination, seems never to have occurred to the Solons of St Petersburg, and this when they knew well enough that the continents were not far asunder toward the north.
The mariners thought it safer to go by the chart, which after all must have some influence on the land, the drawing having passed through such imperial processes, and hence arrived at the fatal determination to steer first south-east by east in search of the Land of Gama, and after discovering it to take its northern coast as a guide to the north-east or east; but if no land was found in latitude 46°, then the course should be altered to north-east by east till land was made. The coast once found, it was to be followed to latitude 65°. The action of the several officers under every conceivable emergency was determined by the council. All were to return to Avatcha Bay by the end of September.4 Yet with all the care, when put into practice, their plans were found to be exceedingly de- fective. Steller went on the Sv Petr, while Croyère was attached to Chirikof's vessel. The crew of the
4 It is not known who Juan de Gama was, nor when the pretended discov- ery was made by him. In 1649 Texeira, cosmographer to the king of Portu- gal, published a map on which 10 or 12 degrees north-east from Japan, in latitude 44° and 45°, were represented a multitude of islands and a coast ex- tending toward the east, labelled: 'Terre vue par Jean de Gama, Indien, en allant de la Chine à la Nouvelle Espagne.' The situation of the 'Land of Gama,' on Texeira's maps, seems to be the same as the 'Company's Land ' discovered by the Kastrikom under Martin Geritzin de Vries, in 1643, or perhaps earlier. Müller's Voy., i. 37-8; Burney's Chronol. Hist., 162-3.
67
IN MID-OCEAN.
Sv Petr numbered seventy-seven, and that of the Sv Pavel seventy-five. Both ships had still provisions left for five and a half months, with one hundred barrels of water, sixteen cords of wood, and two boats each.
On the morning of the 4th of June 1741, after solemn prayer, the two ships sailed from Avatcha Bay with a light southerly wind.5 . Noon of the second day saw them thirty miles from Light House Point. Chirikof, who was about five miles to windward of Bering, noticed that the latter steered southward of the course proposed. Signalling Bering that he would speak with him, Chirikof proposed that they should keep as near together as possible to avoid final separation in a fog. He also spoke of the manifest change from the agreed course, whereat Bering ap- peared annoyed, and when later Chirikof signalled to speak with him a second time the commander paid no attention to it. As we proceed we shall find serious defects in the character of both of these men. For a commander-in-chief, Bering was becoming timid, and perhaps too much bound to instructions; for a sub- ordinate, Chirikof was dogmatic and obstinate. About noon of the 6th of June Bering ordered Chirikof to proceed in advance, trusting apparently more to his skill and judgment than to his own. On the 7th of June the wind changed to the north and increased. In the course of the next few days the two ships approached each other occasionally and exchanged signals, but Chirikof remained in the lead. In the afternoon of the 12th they found themselves in lati- tude 46, and came to the conclusion that there was no Gama Land such as given in the chart, and at 3 o'clock they changed their course to east by north. On the 14th the wind drew ahead, blowing strong
5 Details of Bering's voyage in the archives of St Petersburg consist of reports and journals by Waxel, Yuskin, and Khitrof, the first two in copies, the latter in the original. Of Chirikof's voyage there are copies of journals by himself and by Yelagin his mate. A few other details have been obtained from Steller and Müller. Zap. Hydr., passim.
68
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
from the eastward, and compelling to a more north- erly course for nearly two days, till they found them- selves in latitude 48°, Bering keeping to the windward of Chirikof on account of the better sailing qualities of his vessel. Chirikof finally signalled for instruc- tions, and asked how long the northerly course was to be pursued. Bering's answer was to follow him and he would see.
A few hours later the course was changed to the southward. On the 15th the wind was a little more to the south and the northerly course was resumed. On the 18th, in the morning, Bering informed Chiri- kof that as they were in latitude 49° they must turn south, but Chirikof said that with the prevailing wind a change was impracticable, and it would be best to con- tinue the course east by north. The following day in latitude 49° 30' the wind increased, blowing violently from the east, and sails were shortened during the night. Next morning Chirikof sighted the Sv Petr about three leagues to the north, but Bering did not see him, and thinking himself to the windward shaped his course to the north-west. This manœuvre completed the separation of the vessels forever. Bering made every effort to find the consort; he spent three days between latitudes 50° and 51°, and finally sailed south- east as far as 45°, but all in vain. Chirikof had taken an easterly course and his subsequent movements were entirely distinct from those of his commander.
First let us follow the fortunes of Chirikof, who must ever be regarded as the hero of this expedition.
After losing sight of the Sv Petr, which he thought was to the northward, Chirikof allowed the Sv Pavel to drift a while, so that his commander might find him. Then he steered south-east in search of him, and after making two degrees of longitude to the eastward, on the morning of the 23d of June he found himself in latitude 48°. A council of officers decided that it was folly to waste time in search of Bering,
69
ADVENTURES OF CHIRIKOF.
and that they would prosecute the object of the voy- age, which was to find land toward the east. Hence with light, favorable winds, the Sv Pavel went for- ward, occasionally shaping her course a little more to the north, until on the 11th of July signs of land were seen in drift-wood, seals, and gulls. Without slacking his speed, but casting the lead constantly, Chirikof proceeded, and during the night of the 15th he sighted land in latitude 55° 21.' Thus was the great discovery achieved. The high wooded moun- tains looming before the enraptured gaze of eyes long accustomed to the tamer glories of Siberia, were at once pronounced to belong to the continent of Amer- ica. 6
Day broke calm and clear; the coast was visible in distinct outlines at a distance of three or four miles; the lead indicated sixty fathoms, and the ship was surrounded by myriads of ducks and gulls. At noon it was still calm, and an observation gave the latitude as 55° 41'. A boat was lowered but failed to find a landing-place. In the evening a light wind arose, and the vessel stood north-westward along the shore under short sails. Toward morning the wind increased from the eastward with rain and fog, and the bright green land which they had found was lost to them again. At last, some time after daylight, high moun- tains once more appeared above the clouds, and at noon of the 17th the entrance to a great bay was observed in latitude 57° 15'. The mate, Dementief, was ordered to explore the entrance in the long-boat manned with ten armed sailors.7
The party was furnished with provisions for several days, with muskets, and other arms, including a small
6 Sokolof declares emphatically that the point of land made was a slight projection of the coast between capes Addington and Bartholomew of Van- couver's map. Zap. Hydr., ix. 399.
7 The mate, Abram Mikhaïlovich Dementief, is spoken of by Müller in his Letter of a Russian Naval Officer, as a man of good family, young, good-look- ing, kind-hearted, skilled in his profession, and anxious to serve his country. Sokolof in his history of the expedition hints at a love affair at Okhotsk, which had ended unhappily. Morskoi Sbornik, cv. 113; Zap. Hydr., iv. 400-1.
70
DISCOVERY OF ALASKA.
brass cannon. Chirikof issued instructions to meet probable emergencies, and explained how they were to communicate with the ship by signals. The boat was seen to reach the shore and disappear behind a small projection of land; a few minutes later the precon- certed signals were observed, and it was concluded that the boat had landed in safety.8 The day passed without further information from the shore. During the next and for several successive days, signals were observed from time to time, which were interpreted to mean that all was well with Dementief. At last, as the party did not return, Chirikof began to fear that the boat had suffered damage in landing, and on the 23d Sidor Savelief, with some sailors, a carpenter and a calker, was sent ashore to assist Dementief, and repair his boat if necessary.9 The strictest injunctions were issued that either one or both of the boats should return immediately. Their movements were anxiously watched from the ship. The small boat was seen to land, but no preparation for a return could be observed. A great smoke was seen rising from the point round which the first crew had disappeared.
The night was passed in great anxiety; but every heart was gladdened when next morning two boats were seen to leave the coast. One was larger than the other, and no one doubted that Dementief and Savelief were at last returning. The captain ordered all made ready for instant departure. During the bustle which followed little attention was paid to the approaching boats, but presently they were discovered to be canoes filled with savages, who seemed to be as much astonished as the Russians, and after a rapid survey of the apparition they turned shoreward, shouting Agaï! Agaï! Then dread fell on all, and
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