A memorial and biographical history of northern California, illustrated. Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy...and biographical mention of many of its most eminent pioneers and also of prominent citizens of today, Part 27

Author: Lewis Publishing Company. cn
Publication date: 1891
Publisher: Chicago : The Lewis publishing company
Number of Pages: 1000


USA > California > A memorial and biographical history of northern California, illustrated. Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy...and biographical mention of many of its most eminent pioneers and also of prominent citizens of today > Part 27


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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AMERICAN PERIOD.


With the great boom in Northern Californian of the years 1848 and 1849, Marin County took a decided turn upward. In the early part of 1849 two associations from the Southern States, both composed of young men of good family and education, settled in Marin. They were the Baltimore and Virginia companies. The former settled at Corte Madera, where they erected a huge saw-mill, but did not continue long in business. The Virginiano rented land near San Rafael from Don Timoteo Murphy, and began gardening on an extensive scale, but with even more disastrous results than their friends. Many members of these companies re- inained in the county, forming some of its most enterprising citizens.


At the inauguration of the American period the best known Mexican families within the present domain of Marin County were Manuel Torres, Ramon Valentin, Enrique Recheson, R. Pacheco and P. Sais.


Marin County was organized according to act of the Legislature approved February 18, 1850, but for some time afterward public affairs moved very slowly. Up to 1854 there had been only two postoffices established, and almost no roads. Between 1855 and 1863 the county, outside of its towns, received its greatest acces- sions of population, its great possibilities as a dairying country being then discovered and brought to fruition. In 1855, Mr. S. P. Taylor put into operation a paper-mill on Lagunitas Creek, the first attempt at manufacturing in the county, now (in 1890) grown to be an extensive


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affair. About this time also many ambitions land schemes were put on foot, looking chiefly to the building up of a rival city to San Fran- cisco. One of them was Marion City, occupy- ing - on paper - the entire surface of Point San Quentin. The only tangible result of this was the location there of the California State Prison. Sansalito was another gigantic city; California City and Corte Madera City were likewise. However, several quite extensive settlements in the timber-cutting days, as Lagunitas and Corte Madera, have disappeared altogether. In 1863, San Rafael began to come into notice as a place for suburban residence for business men of San Francisco, although com- munication was made at first by stage line to San Quentin and thence by ferry. With that year really began the growth of San Rafael. In 1870 began the coming to the county of ex- perienced Swiss dairymen, in whose hands that business is now largely conducted. To show the progress made, it may be mentioned that according to the census returns of 1880, Marin leads all other connties in the Union in the amount of butter manufactured. The scene of these dairying operations is chiefly along the coast, Point Reyes butter being the standard of excellence in California.


RESOURCES AND PRESENT CONDITION.


Marin County is now admirably served with railroads. The North Pacific Coast Road, a narrow gange, which runs from Sansalito through the redwood region into Sonoma County, was the first to be built. It was begun in 1872 and completed in 1875. The San Francisco & North Pacific, or " Donahue" line, was extended from Petaluma to Tiburon in 1884. Both from Sansalito and Tiburon a splendid system of ferry boats make frequent trips to San Francisco. The system of wagon roads of Marin County is unexcelled.


Dairying is par excellence the industry of Marin, although it is rapidly developing into a great fruit county, and some fine stock is raised in the county. The apple orchard be-


longing to Hon. F. C. De Long, of over 300 acres, is said to be the largest in the State. It yields a princely revenue of about $75,000 a year to its owner, the product being entirely shipped to Anstralia. Several fine vineyards have been planted, a good quality of claret wine being manufactured. The fisheries off the coast are of great value. Off Point San Pedro, on the eastern shore, about 400 Chinese are en- gaged in shrimp taking and in sturgeon and small fish capture. On Tomales Bay, on the west shore, also, are valuable fisheries. In manufactures there are, besides Taylor's paper mill, already mentioned, several large brick concerns. The California Patent Brick Com- pany, located near Las Gallinas, has the largest establishment on the coast. Prunty and the Remillard Bros. are also large brick-makers. Shaver's planing-mill, some hop yards, etc., about exhaust the list.


At San Quentin is the State Penitentiary, with about 1,200 inmates, who are largely em- ployed in making jute bags, bricks, etc., but they onght hardly to count. The prison was begun in 1853, prior to which the State's con- victs had been kept on board an old hulk anch- ored at Angel Island. Since 1853 the prison, which stands in the front rank of like institu- tions in the country, has cost the Government over $2,500,000 in buildings, etc. At Novato some fine basalt quarries are being worked.


San Rafael was incorporated first in 1874, and in 1889 was re-incorporated as a city of the sixth class. It is a beautiful city, favored of wealthy San Franciscans, and both it and vi- cinity possess many magnificent residences. Its drives are unsurpassed. The Hotel Rafael, completed in 1888, at a cost of $200,000, is one of the most fashionable aud elegant of the State, being headquarters for tennis players, etc. In 1872 the handsome court-honse was erected, at a cost of $55,000. The school sys- tem is good, the churches active and prosper- ous. It has splendid water-works, and is well sewered. In 1889 was opened a new $100,000 college for young ladies, the San Rafael College,


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by the Sisters of St. Dominic. This noble in- stitution was founded in 1850 by the generosity of Don Timoteo Murphy. Near by is the St. Vincent Orphan Asylum, with about 500 in- mates.


At Sansalito, which is a favorite suminer residence for San Franciscans, are the quarters of the Pacific and San Francisco Yacht Clubs, while at Tiburon is the like of the Corinthian Yacht Club. Both these points are great fish- ing resorts for those that love piscatorial sport. The repair shops, etc., of the two railroads are at these two places.


At present a work of great valne is being accomplished in the reclamation of the salt marshes near Novato, now progressing.


Mount Tamalpais, 3,000 feet high and stand- ing alone, is the county's greatest pride and boast. On a clear day a view of unusual mag- nificence is obtained, embracing the Pacific Ocean, the city of San Francisco and the great bay of the same name.


The newspapers of Marin are the Journal, founded 1861, the Tocsin, fonnded 1879, both of San Rafael, and the News, of Sansalito, founded 1884, all able and influential weeklies.


THE MEXICAN LAND GRANTS


in Marin County were: Las Baulinas, 8,911 acres, patented to G. Briones in 1866; Cañada de Herera, 6,658 acres, to the heirs of D. Sais in 1876; Corte Madera de Novato, 8,879 acres, to Juan Martin in 1863, and Corte Madera del Presidio, 7,845 acres, to the heirs of John Read in 1885; Mission San Rafael, six and a half acres, to Bishop Alemany in 1859; San Ger- onimo, 8,701 acres, to J. W. Revere in 1860. San Jose, 6,659 acres, to Ygnacio Pacheco in 1861; Sancelito, 19,571 acres, to W. A. Richard; son in 1879; Saulajule, 919 acres to G. N- Cornwall, 1,447 acres to L. D. Watkins, 2,266 acres to M. F. Gormley, 3,774 acres to P. J. Vasquez and 2,492 acres to J. S. Brackett,-all in 1879; San Pedro, Santa Margarita y las Gallinas, 21,679 acres, to Timothy Murphy in 1866; Punta de las Reyes, 57,067 acres to


Andrew Randall in 1860; Punta de Quentin, 8,877 acres to V. R. Buckelew in 1866; Novato, 8,871 acres to the assignees of Simons in 1866; Nicasio, 7,598 acres to Frink & Reynolds, and 30,849 acres to H. W. Halleck in 1861; Olom- pali, 8,878 acres to Camilo Ynitia in 1862; Tomales y Bolines, 9,468 acres to Rafael Garcia in. 1883, and 13,645 acres to Bethuel Phelps in 1866. In Marin and Sonoma coun- ties: Blucher, 29,759 acres to the heirs of S. Smith in 1858; Laguna de San Antonio, 24,903 acres to B. Bojarqnez in 1871.


About half of Marin County's 350,000 acres is now owned by less than a dozen men.


ASSEMBLYMEN.


T. J. Ables, 1867-'68, 1873-'74; Charles D. Allen, 1877-'78; Joseph Almy, 1885; J. W. Atherton. 1887; S. C. Bowers, 1883; G. R. Brush, 1856; George W. Burbank, 1875 -'76; D. Clingan, 1854; C. L. Estey, 1881; James M. Estell, 1857; Alexander Gordon, 1862; Upton M. Gordon, 1861; Sanborn John- son, 1863-'64; Samuel Lewis, 1860; A. C. Mc- Allister, 1862; Wm. J. Miller, 1869-'70; D. Olds, 1865-'66; J. B. Rice, 1871-'72; H. P. A. Smith, 1855; J. T. Stocker, 1858; A. W. Taliaferro, 1852; R. B. Torrence, 1863; Manuel Torres, 1859; Thomas R. Walker, 1853.


MENDOCINO COUNTY.


This county was legally one of the original counties of February 18, 1850, but was not organized until by act of the Legislature ap- proved March 11, 1859, having been up to that time attached to Sonoma County for civil and political purposes. Joseph Knox, F. Nally, H. Baechtel, J. W. Brown and William Heeser were appointed the commissioners to locate places for the first election. On the first Mon- day of May of that year the following county officers were elected and entered upon the dis- charge of their several duties: J. D. Price, Sheriff; G. Carminy Smith, Clerk; J. J. Cloud, Surveyor; John W. Morris, Treasurer; A. L. Brayton, School Superintendent; William Neely


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Johnson, District Attorney; William Henry, County Judge; John Burton, Assessor; J. B. Lamar, Assemblyman; O. H. P. Brown, J. F. Hills and Daliel Miller, Supervisors.


Cape Mendocino was named in honor of Antonio de Mendoza, the first Viceroy of New Spain. He was appointed by the emperor, and, arriving in the city of Mexico in 1535, ordered a survey of the coast of California, wherein the cape was discovered. The county was named after the cape.


The Mexican land grants made within the present domain of Mendocino County were as follows: Sanel, 17,755 acres to Fernando Felz in 1860; and Yokaya, 35,541 acres to C. Juarez in 1867.


The first white settlements in the county were made on the coast in 1852. In the first week in April that year, Captain Peter Thomp- son, one of Carson's old trappers, George Raney, afterward mate of a Panama steamer; and " Steve " - clerk for the American Consul at Callao, passed down through Anderson Valley and on to the coast, reaching it worn out with fatigue and hunger. Thompson settled at Pine Grove, four miles above Big River, this being the first known permanent white settler in the county. He was a native of Ayrshire, Scotland, went through the Apache country with Walker in 1836, and was with Carson in several expeditions in South America in 1848.


In the fall of 1852 the saw-mill at Big River in Mendocino was commenced by Henry Meiggs, J. B. Ford and others. Soon the Noyo Albion, Nevarra and Caspar mills were built. In 1852 William and Thomas Potter, M. C. Briggs, Al. Strong, J. L. Anderson and Cestos Feliz went up the Russian River to the place afterward called Potter. In August, 1853, the Potter Bros, moved their stock up there. In 1856 Thomas Henley, as Indian agent of Nome Lackee, established a farmi n Round Valley. He was accompanied by Denman Bros., Martin Corbett, C. H. Bonrne, J. E. White and others. In 1859 John Parker and John Turk settled in the lower end of Ukiah Valley with cattle


belonging to Jerry Black of Marin County. In 1851 L. B. Arnold and three others came up through Ukiah Valley across to Anderson and back to Cloverdale, killing twelve or fifteen grizzly bears on the route.


Ukiah has been the county-seat ever since the organization of the county. It was incorporated in September, 1872. The original court-house was built by E. Rathburn, for $7,000, in the fall of 1859, and in the fall of 1872 a new court-house was completed by A. P. Petit, for $40,000. County Court was convened in the new building for the first time on the first Monday in March, 1873.


Grazing and stock-raising constitute the second great interest in Mendocino County. Some valuable minerals have also been found within the limits of the county. A vein of coal eight feet thick exists four miles above the forks of Eel River between Round Valley and Eden Valley. This coal was first discovered and brought out by H. L. Hall. B. S. Coffman was the first to interest capitalists in it. I. Friedlander entered 30,000 acres of land around the place. Many medicinal springs exist in this county.


The following have represented this county in the State Assembly: T. M. Ames, 1862-'63; Martin Baechtel, 1861; J. M. Covington, 1875-'76; W. H. Cureton, 1867-'68; Philo Handy, 1887; G. W. Henley, 1869-'70; Whit Henley, 1885; Wm. Holden, 1857, 1865-'66, 1881; L. F. Long, 1877-'78; George B. Mathers, 1871-'72; D. W. McCallum, 1873-'74; L. G. Morse, 1880; Levi Wilsey, 1863-'64; Archibald Yell, 1883. See adjoining counties for other representatives.


This county is chiefly famous for the im- mense forests of redwood timber that elothe the mountains and valleys throughout the whole extent of the county on the side next to the Pacific Ocean. To one who has not seen a red- wood forest, description is futile, and the same may be said of the great mills with their pecu- liar and powerful machinery for hauling, split- ting and cutting up the great logs. The redwood


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lumber business and its shipping may be said to be the only industry of the Pacific coast side of the county, and a very large capital is em- ployed therein, although some produce and dairy products are also shipped. A list of ship- ping points is here given, running from north to south, and most of these having saw-mills, generally of large dimensions, and several hav- ing regular lines of steamers and schooners. Bear Harbor, Rockport, Usal, Westport, where there are two mills, Kibesillah, Inglewood, Fort Bragg, Noyo, Caspar, Mendocino City, Little River, Albion, Whitesboro, Navarro, Coffey's Cove, Port Vallejo, Greenwood, Manchester, Punta Arenas, Fish Rock, Gualala. It must not be thought that these are harbors. They are simply more or less sheltered coves or land- ings, possessing shoots suspended from the cliffs by which the lumber or other material is slid down into the vessel which lies at anchor under the cliff. Some of these points are tolerably good-sized towns, with considerable trade, churches and schools, etc., although almost en- tirely dependent on lumbering for their exist- ence. Caspar, Mendocino City, Little River, Fort Bragg, Punta Arenas, are such places. From some of them dairy produce is an item of valuable shipping note.


The interior, and larger part, of Mendocino County has suffered greatly from lack of com- munication with the outside world. Until May, 1889, when the San Francisco & Northern Pacific Railroad was extended from Cloverdale to Ukiah, the county-seat, the only communi- cation was by stage over a rough and dusty (or miry) mountain road. With the advent of the iron horse has come a new era, ushering in prosperity and a genuine advance in every de- partment. The chief industry of this interior portion has been wool, cattle, and hop growing and agriculture, but already, now that the railroad is at their door a considerable acreage of fruit has been set out about Ukiah and the southern valleys, with more to follow. Hop-growing, which has attained considera le magnitude, is chiefly engaged in throughout the Sanel Valley,


where the growing town of Hopland received its name in consequence, and in the vicinity of Ukiah, where almost every fariner has his hop- dryer. Throughout the whole northern and eastern portions of the county, stock-raising and wool-growing. are the staples, although in certain parts, as especially about the town of Willits, agriculture and fruit-growing is ex- tensively and successfully engaged in.


Mendocino County has never cut a figure as a mining country. There is, however, a large and valuable seam of coal at a point a short distance south of Round Valley. At different times and in various places gold has been washed out in small quantities. Copper and cinnabar are also known to exist, but apparently not in paying quantities.


The industries of Mendocino may, accord- ingly, be set down as, first of all lumbering, there being thirty steam saw-mills that give employment to 2,500 men, with an annual cut of about 70,000,000 feet. Next comes wool- growing, stock-raising, hops, potatoes and other produce, dairying, agriculture, fruit and grape growing, etc.


Round Valley was first settled in 1856 as an Indian farm and station by Government em- ployés from the Nome-Lackee Indian Reserva- tion. It was not, however, finally set off as a reservation until 1864, after many settlers' claims had been made within its confines. As a consequence of this fact great trouble and some hardship to all parties has resulted. It is a beautiful valley, almost circular, and with a diameter of about seven miles.


Ukiah, the chief town and county-seat, has seen great activity during the past two years, since the completion to it of the Santa Fé & Northern Pacific Railway. It is a handsome and busy town with signs of prosperity on every hand. The court-house was built in 1872, at a cost of $40,000. It is a fine struct- ure. About three miles south of it is the site of the Northern California State Hospital for the Insane, selected by a commission appointed by the State government to choose a location,


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for which purpose an appropriation had been made of $175,000. Provision is made for the erection of a very handsome structure at a heavy cost. Preparations for building are now in progress. Ukiah possesses a large tannery. a foundry and other similar establishments. The school system is good and buildings mod- ern, a large new school-house having just been completed at a cost of $15,000. There are six churches, all prosperous. Daily stages run from Ukiah to Eureka in Humboldt County, Lakeport in Lake County and to Mendocino City on the coast. There is some talk of build- ing a railroad from Ukiah to Lakeport, and it is probable that some day the Santa Fé & Union Pacific will be extended to Eureka. Among the energetic and representative citizens of Ukiah who have aided in advancing the county interests are Judge McGarvey, Dr. E. W. King, Mrs. Annie M. Reed, the poetess and writer, and others. At Ukiah are held alternately with Lakeport the fairs, races, ete., of the Lake and Mendocino Agricultural So- ciety.


Hopland has become a distributing point of importance since the railroad has reached it, and is growing fast. Stages run thence to Lake- port, and to Boonville and coast points. Boon- ville and Comptche are surrounded by a good agricultural and stock country. Willits, Cahto, Laytonville, Covelo, Calpella, are all enterpris- ing towns of the northern country with impor- tant businesss interests.


There are several valuable and highly popular mineral springs or spas in the county. Prom- inent among these is the Vichy Springs, three miles east of Ukiah, where there is a commodi- ons hotel, batlı-houses, etc.


The newspapers of Mendocino County are as follows, all being weeklies, and comparing fa- vorably with their contemporaries elsewhere. In Ukiah are the Dispatch Democrat, founded 1867, the Independent (1886), and the Press (1877). At Mendocino City is the Beacon (1877). At Fort Bragg, the Advocate and at Point Arena the Record.


MODOC COUNTY.


This county is named after an Indian tribe that formerly ranged in the northeastern part of California. Their true name is Moadoc-a name which originated with the Shasta Indians and means all distant, stranger or hostile In- dians. The name was applied by the whites to this tribe in early days from hearing the Shas- tas speak of them. The county is bounded on the north by Oregon, on the east by Nevada, on the south by Lassen and Shasta counties, and on the west by Siskiyou County.


Modoc may be considered a high sage plateau, the plains broken by low ranges of mountains, the general elevation being over four thousand feet above sea level. The more elevated moun- tain range, the Warner, strikes north and south across the eastern border.


There are numerous lakes, which, though covering a large area, are, for the most part, shallow. Pit River is the only large stream within the county limits. It has its origin in Goose Lake, on the northern border. A portion of this lake lies in the State of Oregon. Issuing from its sonrce, the Pit flows in a southwesterly direction centrally across the county.


Excepting on the slopes of the Warner Range, before mentioned, where grow heavy forests of pine and cedar, there is but little timber in Mo- doc. The plateau is covered with a variety of wild grasses, which afford good pasturage, and the stock subsisting thereon are generally in fine condition. In the valleys good farming land is found. Surprise Valley is the largest in extent, and is noted for the richness of its soil.


Mineral springs abound everywhere, for the waters of which medicinal virtues are claimed.


The principal towns in the county are: Altu- ras, the county-seat; Fort Bidwell, a military post; Cedarville and Adin, the principal mining center; and Eagleville.


While Modoe may and, no doubt, does con- tain mineral deposits of many kinds and of much importance, none of ascertained value has


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yet been discovered. Many years ago a number of silver-bearing lodes were located in the moun- tains, near Surprise Valley, and some prospect- ing work done. On one of the locations a quartz mill was erected, but owing to the re- moteness of the place, and, in some measure, to Indian hostilities, the work of development was tardy, and, when the mill was destroyed by fire, finally abandoned. The amount of bullion ob- tained from the working was inconsiderable, so the extent and value of existing deposits are left, as yet, undetermined. The settlers in the county have turned their attention chiefly to farming and stock-raising; mining is nearly altogether neglected. In Lassen County, just over the sonthern boundary of Modoc, quartz mines are being worked. (For further description see Lassen County.) Modoc's mineral wealthı is yet lying dormant, awaiting the awakening hour of enterprise.


For an account of the Modoc war see page 55. For State senators representing this county see page 81, and for Assemblymen see adjoining counties.


NAPA COUNTY. INDIANS.


Napa was the name of a tribe of Indians that occupied the valley. They were brave and greatly harassed the frontier posts. They were very numerous up to 1838, when they were mostly carried off by the small-pox. Those who occupied the Napa Valley were called Diggers. Their food consisted of wild roots, among which was the soap-root. They often dug small ani . mals out of their holes and frequently they ate earth-worms. Grasshoppers made a favorite dish, They made a kind of bread from the crushed kernel of the buckeye. It has been said that they gathered a species of fat worms to use as shortening for their bread. Their food was of the lowest grade, as well as all their habits of life.


Of homes or buildings they had no knowl- edge. They constructed, in the rainy season, a sort of hut from the branches of trees. In the summer they encamped along the streams. They


were of sinall stature, but possessed great strength. For a great portion of the year they wore no clothing, and in winter were only half clad in skins of wild animals.


When George C. Yount, the first white set- tler of Napa Valley, arrived in 1831, he esti- mated there were 3,000 to 5,000 of these In- dians in this valley. At that time there were six tribes, speaking different dialects and often at war with each other, and dwelt about as fol- lows: the Mayacomos tribe near the Calistoga hot springs; the Callajomans on the Bale ran- cho, near St. Helena; the Kymus tribe dwelt on the Yount grant; the Napa tribe occupied the lands between Napa River and the creek near Napa City; the Ulcus occupied the east side of Napa River near Napa City; while the Soscol tribe occupied the Soscol grant. Of all these Indians there are scarcely any in the valley at the present time. Formerly quarrels were fre- quent with the settlers, who claimed to have had cattle stolen, and the Indians was sure on general principles to receive severe punishment. At one time a party of settlers having met with such losses surrounded several hundred of these Indians on the Bale ranch near Oakville, who were unarmed and in the " sweat-house;" and the whole number were slaughtered as they passed out, man by man, killing nearly the entire tribe. In 1850 a party from Sonoma County killed eleven innocent Indians, young and old, as they came out of the " sweat-house." These murderers were never brought to a trial although some efforts were made in that direction.


The idea of a future state was universal with them, and a vague notion of rewards and pun- ishments seemed to pervade their " untutored minds." Certain rocks and mountains were re- garded as sacred, as also was considered the grizzly bear; and nothing would induce them to eat its flesh. Their cure-all was the " sweat- bath," which was constructed in the shape of an inverted bowl, about forty feet in diameter at the bottom and built of strong poles and branches of trees covered with earth, with a small hole at the bottom permitting one at a




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