USA > California > A memorial and biographical history of northern California, illustrated. Containing a history of this important section of the Pacific coast from the earliest period of its occupancy...and biographical mention of many of its most eminent pioneers and also of prominent citizens of today > Part 40
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In 1851 Downieville polled 1,132 votes.
February 19, 1853, the town was entirely destroyed by fire; loss about $150,000. The town was soon rebuilt, with more substantial structures. Two days after the fire McNulty opened the St. Charles Hotel. On Washing- ton's birthday he took in for incals alone $2,600.
Downieville was made a postoffice in 1852, Edward Haskell being the first postmaster.
The first municipal election was held April 27, 1863; J. N. Flandreau was chosen Presi- dent.
Several eminent men have resided here Hon. Joseph Mckibben, afterward colonel in the war, was here several years, as also Colonel E. D.
Baker, the great orator from Illinois, who died at Edward's Ferry on the Potomac River, October 21. 1861. John Mackey, the great millionaire, lived in Sierra County when com- paratively a poor man. J. Neely Johnson left his law practice here to take the gubernatorial chair at Sacramento.
One of the most remarkable events that ever occurred at Downieville was the lynching of a young Spanish woman July 5, 1851, for the killing of Jack Cannon, a popular Scotchman of the place who had insulted the lady with a foul epithet. The affair created great excitement throughout the country, even reaching the Lon- don Times in England, which, with the press of the country generally condemned the hasty act of the miners. The woman, slender and rather petit, must have exhibited remarkable physical strength to have fatally stabbed a large man to death with one blow of her knife; and after her comdemnation by the mob she passed the time allotted her, one hour, in a peculiarly serene manner without doing anything, and then went smiling and chatting to the gallows as sweetly as if nothing extraordinary had hap- pened. She was executed in the presence of an excited multitude of abont 3,000. In be- half of the miners, however, it is claimed that the Spanish woman was of low character.
COURT-HOUSE AND JAIL.
At a special term of the Court of Sessions, held March 14, 1854, to discuss the matter of building a court-house and jail, H. B. Cossitt, Benj. Hall, Alanson Smith and D. G. Webber were appointed a committee on plans and speci- fications. In answer to an advertisement, pub- lished one month, four bids were received. Structure dimensions: conrt-house, 35 x 51 feet in s'ze; jail, 36 x 13; jailor's house, 36 x 20. The contract was awarded to D. G. Webber for $12,975. The names of the unsuccessful bid- ders are: Win. W. Robinson, Cornelius Day and J. F. Day. An order of court, April 7, appropriated sufficient land on Durgan Flat, owned by Wm. J. Ford, for which $315 was
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paid December 18, same year; $1,500 was ap- propriated to furnish new court-house. Not deeming the specifications followed sufficiently, the board of supervisors did not accept the build- ings nntil May 6, 1855, since which time they have been used for the purposes designed, having many times narrowly escaped being destroyed by fire.
COUNTY HOSPITAL.
The first official provision for the care of the invalid poor was made in 1854, when the Court of Sessions appointed Drs. T. R. Kibbe and C. D. Aiken as physicians. In May, 1855, the board appointed a resident physician in each of the supervisor districts. Changes were made each year in the appointment of physicians un- til 1858, when the district system was dropped and one physician for the whole county ap- pointed.
In November 1858, the old Felter House, Jersey Flat, was fitted up for a county hospital, by order of the board of supervisors, and Dr. E. J. Bryant, who later married the daughter of Samuel MIungerford, now the world-famed Mrs. Mackey, was appointed county physician, holding the position until 1862, when he was succeeded by Dr. T. R. Kibbe, who served two years. After him came Dr. Alemby Jump, for six years; Dr. G. C. Chase, three years; when Jump was re-appointed in the fall of 1873, and Chase, again in 1875, serving two years; since when Jump has most satisfactorily filled the position. A new hospital was built in the autumn of 1880, and occupied near the close of the year. Dimensions of main building, 24 x 46 feet in size-two stories; dining-room, 24 x 14; there is also a commodions kitchen. Expense of each patient averages eighty cents a day. In 1881 there were forty-nine patients. There are a receiving ward, bath-room and a place for confining disobedient patients. In the second story are two wards and a steward's room.
SCHOOL-HOUSE.
The new school-house at Downieville is 60 x 65 feet in ground area, and has two departments,
on one floor, with a basement. The latter con- tains a hot-air furnace for heating and venti- lation. The main floor has two rooms 35 feet square and 14 feet from floor to ceiling. The rooms are separated by a wall well adapted to the deadening of sound. Adjoining each school- room are two hat and elvak rooms, 8 x 12 feet, on each floor, for boys and girls; also a main hall. The grammar department has a library room attached.
The school-house is furnished with new fur- niture and apparatus throughout. There are two patent closets connected with each depart- ment, and there are two independent water sup- plies, one to closets and one to school-rooms, each room being supplied with a sink. A sewer connects with the river, and is furnished with a constant stream of running water, carrying off all the sewer gas to the distance of 150 yards. The building is of modern architecture.
The bonds for its construction were voted al- most nnanimonsly, were ordered issued in 1886, and the house completed in November, 1887, at a cost, with furniture, of $5,600. The plan was drawn up by William F. Smith, an archi- tect of San Francisco. S. A. Smith, R. Forbes and F. R. Withe were the trustees of the dis- trict at the time, and still constitute the board.
The grammar department is taught by E. L. Case, who is also County Superintendent of Schools; salary, $100 per month. The pri- mary department is conducted by Miss Nina Cowden; salary, $75. The school is continued at least nine months in each year, the average attendance being abont 100 in both departments. The grounds, two acres in extent, are planted with walnut, linden, elm, etc.
MINING AT THE PRESENT DAY.
This mountain-town, Downieville, has scarce- ly any industries except mining; and the little agriculture that is carried on in the valleys of the mountains around is to supply the needs of the people directly engaged in mining and those parties that are indirectly interested in the above industry. All the products of the small ranches
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
and gardens in the county are not enough to supply the wants of the people even in vegeta- bles and fruits, not eonnting the flour, grain and other cereals that are needed to supply the wants of abont 4,000 people,-which is about the pop- ulation of Sierra County. Downieville has a population of abont 700, and their main support are the mines around, both gravel and quartz.
The gravel mines are the most extensive and are carried on in as scientific manner as that class of mines are in any part of the world. This class of mining-by tunnels-has been in operation for forty years, and some of these mines are thoroughly worked out, especially those around Forest City, seven miles distant; where the Bald Mountain Company on the east of Oregon Creek worked the old river channel for over a mile under ground, and ran their gravel out that distance by a steam locomotive. On the west side the claims were very rich in gold: $2,000,000 was about the amount taken ont, but the elaims were exhausted some years before the Bald Mountain Company had found the lead on the north end of the channel. The county on that side has gold-bearing gravel un- derlying the surface in almost every direction, and has been prospected at great expense; but still there are rich paying channels yet to be found. The Bald Mountain Extension Com pany, adjoining the former company, has been working and prospecting their ground for sev- enteen years, and are now in the slate rock with their new tunnel, a distance of over 4,000 feet. The new tunnel is some distance ahead of the old one, and that tunnel was worked for a dis- tance underground of nearly two miles. Their expenses have been enormous, but the gold they have taken out has nearly paid for all the work done. There are several old mining grounds that have been worked out on the same lead further south, and others in the vicinity that are worked from the surface down by hydraulic pressure, with banks from one to 200 feet deep before the slate rock is found.
At the northern side of the county immense. work has been done,-first by hydraulie mining
where the gravel came to the surface and where the gravel disappeared under the lava-capped mountains. The tunnels have followed the channels under, and millions of dollars in gold dust have been extracted from those ancient river beds. There are a number of rich-paying hydraulic mines in the northern part of the connty, but they are now lying idle on account of the injunetions brought by the farmers who say that the debris is filling up the rivers.
There are miles and miles of gold-bearing ground in various parts of the county, yet un broken, that will at some future time be of great account to the mineral wealth of the State. Numbers of quartz mines are seattered all over the county, some that have been very rich, but now abandoned; others are in operation and paying good dividends; and perhaps thousands to be discovered, for from east to west and miles in length the mountains are often ribbed by seams of gold-bearing quartz. Of course, they will not every one pay, but where gold erops ont on the surface no man can know what is below until it has been tried; and often that takes a great deal of time, capital and labor. To supply the mining industry, especially quartz, there is one foundry in Downieville, that is in operation about eight months in the year, owned by R. Forbes and J. Taylor, who turn out a superior quality of eastings and machinery. Within the range of the several branches of the North Yuba rivers there is a water-power which, if thorough- ly utilized, would run the most of the ma- chinery in the State, but it, or nearly all of it, is not in harness, seeking its way down uncon- trolled to the Pacific Ocean.
SISKIYOU COUNTY. THE NAME.
This county was named after the high range of mountains that pours the waters of its north - ern slope into Rogue River, and those that fall on the south into the rushing Klamath.
TOPOGRAPHY.
Extending from the ridge that lies between the Salmon and Trinity rivers on the west to
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
the lava beds on the east, and from the Saera- mento divide on the sonth to the Siskiyou moun- tains on the north, this county contains a total superficial area of over 3,000 square miles. It is essentially a region of mountains. Great ridges and spurs of pine-clad hills reach out in all directions, their caƱons, gorges, precipitous bluff's combining with the graceful sides of their green hills to form a picture of wonderful beanty wherever the eye may rest. When intervening hills obsenre from view the hoary crown of Shasta and the grand but less imposing peaks on every hand, the eye rests with pleasure upon the obstructing hills themselves and sees in them beauties to admire and love.
On the summit of the mountain just over the divide in Oregon there is a beautiful level spot watered by cool springs, that overlook the coun- try for miles aronnd. It was here that the pow- crfnl Shasta, Rogue River and Klamath tribes nsed to congregate, smoke their pipes, indulge in dancing and games and exchange those friendly offices so usual with neighboring tribes living at peace with each other. This place they called Sis-ki-yon, or the council-ground, the name now borne by one of the largest coun- ties in California.
This and the rest of the northern tier of counties of the State have a system of water courses distinct from their sisters south. As to the great Klamath River, see a few pages fur- ther on, under head of " Mineralogical."
The Shasta rises in the hills that form the north and western base of the noble Shasta peak, and flows in a northerly course through the valley of the same name till it mingles with the waters of the Klamath a few miles below the town of Cottonwood.
The Scott River takes its rise in the gigantic ridge between Scott and Shasta valleys and the great Scott mountain that separates it from the headwaters of the Trinity. It runs in a general northerly direction. Its name was derived from John W. Scott, who mined for gold on Scott bar in July, 1850.
Just beyond the range of mountains hem-
ming in the valley to the west, runs the Salmon River, which runs through an unbroken series of mountains thronghont its entire length. Un- til 1875 the country drained by this stream formed a portion of Klamath County; that year it was annexed to this county.
Trinity River, lying wholly in Trinity and Humboldt counties, received its name from Major P. B. Reading, who trapped on its head waters in 1845, and named it Trinity becanse hie supposed it to empty into Trinidad Bay.
That portion of the State embraced now in Modoc County was until 1874 a portion of Sis- kiyon, and is tributary to the Sacramento River. The waters of this region flow into two great branches of the Sacramento, the McLeod and the Pit. This name is usually spelled Pitt, the mistake arising from ignorance. It received its name from the custom of the natives along its banks of digging pits in which to capture bear and deer, and even entrap strange warriors. These pits were dng in the regular trails made by animals, and were from twelve to fourteen feet deep and conical in shape, with a small op- ening at the top, which was covered with brush and dirt so carefully as to completely deceive the unpracticed eye. The McLeod (pronounced MeLond) received its name from an old Scotch trapper who in 1827 or '28 led the first party of Hudson Bay Company trappers that ever pen- etrated into California. Having passed down from Oregon along the sea coast and entered the Sacramento valley from the west, the snows of winter canght the party trapping beaver on the stream. They narrowly escaped the fate of the lamented Donner party in 1846, and were compelled to cache all their furs and traps and make their way over the snow and mountains to a more hospitable elime. The name of this trapper was Alexander Roderick McLeod. and the river has ever since borne his name. Years later, when white men had settled in this region, a well-known and worthy citizen named Ross MeCloud, a surveyor by profession, lived on this stream and the similarity of pronunciation in the two names led to the common error of sup-
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
posing that his name was the one the river bore; and thus it stands upon the maps.
In its general topographical features, Siskiyon County may be said to consist of two large val- leys hemmed in on all sides by lofty ranges of forest-covered mountains. On the south lie the Trinity, Scott and Sacramento mountains, on the east Bntte Creek, on the north the Siskiyon and on the west the Salmon range In the center, from north to south, separating the two valleys and the waters that fertilize them, runs a range from the Klamath River to the Sacra- mento divide. Among these towering ranges are many places of grandeur that merits special mention. We have space here only for the principal one, which is indeed of world-wide fame, namely,
MOUNT SHASTA.
The snowy crown of Shasta was a familiar sight to the early settlers in the lower portion of the State long before the foot of white man ever pressed the green grass at its base. From Monnt Diablo, between Oakland and Stockton, it is distinctly visible; and from the dome of the State capitol at Sacramento it meets the eye of many a gazer who knows not its name nor the great distance it lies to the north. The Russians at Bodega, who saw it from the monn- tains in that vicinity, called it Tchastal, that is, the white or pure mountain. The name was also applied by the trappers to the valleys that lie at its northern base and to the river that bears its cold snow waters to the Klamath, as well as to the tribe of Indians that inhabit Scott and Shasta valleys and the mountains to the north. The true name of their tribe they have forgotten or will not tell, having been called Shastas for half a century ; but the name of their beautiful patron mountain still remains to us, leka, the white. The Indians have a tradition that the mountain is the abode of the great spirit, and that the whole country about was inhabited by grizzlies, who captured the daughter of the Great Spirit and married her to one of their number; and that these were the progenitors of the Indians. They built little
Mount Shasta for a wigwam for the captured girl, that she might live near the lodge of her father.
Nothing gives so good an idea of the great- ness of Shasta as to compare it with the appar- ently dwarf-like hills that surround it, and which, were it not for the overshadowing pres- ence of the high mountain, would be great themselves. Surely a peak 10,000 feet high like the Goose Nest, is no little hill, and yet beside Shasta it looks like the little pile of snow beside the great snowball the boys roll up in winter. The mountain is an old volcano, which still exhibits its vitality in the shape of the hot springs that bubble up on the apex of the highest peak. A very remarkable feature is the collection of hot springs 200 feet below the top, most of them very small and the largest not more than three feet across. They have a tempera- ture of 100 degrees, and their water is strong with sulphur and other minerals. From some of them hot steam rushes out with great force and considerable noise. One of these vents throws out a jet of steam two fect in diameter. The heat of the ground at this point is scarcely diminished by the rigors of winter.
There are several craters npon this mountain. The largest is on the western peak, which is several hundred feet lower than the main summit where the springs are, and separate from it by a deep gorge filled with snow and ice. During the winter of 1889-'90, after an immense amount of snow had fallen, a great avalanche took place from the summit frighten- ing the inhabitants in the vicinity, who thought that the summit itself had fallen in and that an ernption was imminent.
The height of the mountain is 14,440 feet. There are bnt two higher points on the coast,- Mount Whitney, 15,000, and Mount William- son, 14,500 feet. But these peaks cannot ap- proach Shasta in grandeur and magnificenee, for their bases rest on the top of high ridges and mountains, above which they rise but a few thonsand feet, while the base of Shasta is but 3,570 feet above the level of the sea, thus
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rendering it more conspicuous than any other mountain in North America.
Until recently the ascent of this mountain was an undertaking of considerable magnitude and danger; but now, by means of the experi- ence of years and the services of well-trained guides, it is possible to all those who have the strength and endurance to stand the fatigue of so loug a climb. Is is customary to advance as far as the timber line and remain there all night. From here, by starting early in the morning, the top can be gained and a descent made the same day. After a toilsome climb and an hour or two spent on the summit enjoy- ing the panorama of mountains, lakes, valleys, rivers and ocean spread out before the eye, it is pleasant to sit on the board or blanket used for a sled, and, with a long po'e that serves both as a rudder and a brake shoot down the snow sur- face of the mountain side in one long, wild slide of several miles, the spray-like snow flying in a perfect cloud about one's head and blinding his eyes like a driving, heavy stormn. At times there is a sensation of falling through inter- minable space. After the coaster is halted by the snowless ground in the forest below, he rises to sean the route over which he has so wildly descended, and feels himself all over to see if he is all there, giving a sigh of satisfac- tion when he discovers himself to be sound in body and mind, and longs to try it again !
There are but three months in the year when it is considered safe to ascend the mountain,- July, August and September. Long before the winter rains set in, storms range about its lofty brow, and woe to the venturesome traveler who has to contend with their fury. In the spring, storms beat upon its face when all is quiet below, and the crusty snow is so hard and slippery that danger attends every footstep. To see the sun rise from the summit of Shasta has been the ambition of thousands, but few have dared to brave the rigors of a night on its frigid top
MOUNT SHASTA.
BY SARAH D. CLARK.
Over fields on fields of snow,
By the canon's gorge, where the cataracts flow,
When deepening sunset burn and fade
O'er the dark Sierra's shade,
Where life is a joy and the heart beats free,-
Away by the slope to the western sea,
The crown and the pride of those sunny lands,
The beautiful mountain of Shasta stands
With hues of saffron, pearl and rose,
In tints of beauty, its summit glows; And the ages come and the ages go, And still on its peak shines the crystal snow.
Leagues away, by the river's side,
Lies the peaceful valley, deep and wide.
Hid in its heart is a golden store, Cinnabar and the siver ore.
Glossy madrona and lilies of snow
Fast by the giant oak trees grow. Chilian clover and purple vine,
Ripe with its growth for the amber wine;
Clustering roses, famed in song,
Damascus roses, the whole year long ;
Gusty, leaping waters that gleam
Down from the rocks in a crystal stream
From the Palisades, a mighty wall, And the great Dome glistering over all.
Years ago, when the shouts of men From old Coloma and Almaden Burst on the cliffs of the royal State As she sat enthroned by her Golden Gate, Girdling the earth by her magic band, Clasping the belt with her tawny hand,-
Then came the harvest of golden gain, Thick and fast as the yellow grain Falls with the tempest of crimson leaves, In a molten cloud from the bursting showers,
Till every land to old Cathay
Whitened with ships her shining bay.
. By the dark sea wall of oak and pine Stretched on the long Pacific line, Cities arose on the virgin soil,- Cities smoking with traffic and toil; And the simoon's track of the iron band Mountains and burning prairies spanned, Over the crag aud eagle's nest, Threading the continent east and west.
Beautiful land by the sunset sea, Land of the great Yosemite !- Land where the breezes spring elate, Blown mid-day through the Golden Gate; Land of the men of resolute will,- Hearts that thy bounding torrents fill;
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.
Minds at ease with healthful cheer Day after day through the blissful year; Women with song those days begin, Fair as pearls from Comorin; Beautiful children, ruddy and fleet, Like clambering roses in every street ;-
Not for the gems, or a golden feast, Shall the heart, grown weary in the arid east, Leap to meet thee. Thy glorious eye Flames like a star from its canopy. Richer than gold are thy dark lagoons; Brighter than ore are thy silver moons, And deeper than all the voices of men Thy cataracts thunder again and again ; And nobler in heart and nobler in soul Should those races be when those torrents roll.
As th ' ages come and the ages go, Girdling with flame those peaks of snow, The crown and the pride of that sunny land Shall the beautiful mountain of Shasta stand; And the empire star shall rise and rise, Till it moves ful .- orbed in those western skies.
OTHER MOUNTAINS.
To the northeast of Shasta, in the Butte Creek mountains, is a prominent peak called the Goose Nest, from the peculiar shape of its bald top, on which is the crater of an extinct volcano. The mountain is covered with timber nearly to the top, and above this rises the crater peak, bald and bleak, its circular depression filled with snow. But few people have ever ascended this lofty mountain, the overshadowing presence of Shasta demand- ing all the admiration the heart can give and filling the eye to the exclusion of all else. Its height is between 8,000 and 10,000 feet, and the whole summit is covered with loose sand and pumice-stone of a dark red color. The crater is from 200 to 400 feet deep in the center and nearly a mile across.
Other prominent points about Shasta are Sheep Rock and Table Rock. These mountains are very rugged and difficult of ascent.
In the country lying south of Klamath, Tule and Clear lakes are those immense beds of lava made so famous in history by the exploits of Captain Jack and his band. In this region are many caves, though none of them are very ex- tensive.
Second only to Mount Shasta in grandeur, but superior to it in many respects for beanty of scenery and natural wonders, is Marble Mountain, called White Mountain by the natives. It is situated in the mountains that hem in Scott's Valley to the westward, and when viewed from a distance has all the appear- ance of a barren and scraggy height, whose snmmit has been but lately covered with snow; but upon near approach it proves to be the natural color of the rock which composes it, for it consists of an immense upheaval of lime-stone rock, which under the influences of heat and pressure has been partially metamorphosed into marble, of which nearly every description can be found, from the coarser, rongher qualities to that of monumental purity.
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