USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 7
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TUESDAY, THE 5TH-At half-past six we left camp, following the valley (canada) until it turns to the north- west, where we left it, taking to the high hills not far from the shore, our course being rough and painful with many ascents and descents, but happily the hills were well covered with oaks, live-oaks, and willows. In one day's travel of two leagues we saw no Indians. We halted at night within a narrow valley encircled with high hills, with running water in plenty and abundance of grass for the animals. I named it La Cañada de Santa Elena, but it is known to the soldiers as La Cañada Augosta. It is 35° 30'.
WEDNESDAY, THE 6TH .- This day was set apart for rest and to give opportunity for the explorers to lay out our future route.
THURSDAY, THE 7TH .- We left at half-past six, pass- ing over high hills for more than three leagues of our road, until we came to another vale, spacious, with many ponds of water, whose banks were so muddy as to prevent our horses from approaching to drink. We saw here troops of bears which have ploughed up the soil and dug pits in their search for roots, which are their food, as also the support of the Indians, who feast upon such roots as are of good flavor. The soldiers went out to hunt the bears and succeeded in killing one of them by shooting, after gaining some experience as to the animal's fierceness. Upon feeling themselves wounded the animals rush to attack the hunter, who is only able to escape by his horse's fleetness, the bear never sub- mitting until he receives a shot in the head or heart. The one they killed received nine bullets before it fell, only succumbing to one in the head. Other soldiers had the recklessness to ride up to one of these bears while mounted on poor saddle mules; they then gave him seven or eight shots and supposed he was dead; but he arose and crippled two mules, whose riders only escaped by a scratch. This cañada was named by the party de Los Osos, but I called it Cañada de la Natividad de Nuestra Señora.
FRIDAY, THE STH .- This morning, after saying mass on this great day of the Mother of our Lord's nativity, we set out, following the same cañada westward to the sea, meeting on our way some impediments because of deep water-courses whose banks it was necessary to cut down to permit of our pack-train passing; after two leagues we halted upon a hill within sight of the sea, and near a rivulet of good water, upon which grew water-cress. It is a pleasant locality, with many trees and good pastures. Not far from our camp was a band of Indians who seemed to be traveling, for we saw no house; there might have been seventy souls who came to visit us, presenting us with a sort of pinole, made of parched seeds and resem- bling almonds in its taste; to this the Governor responded with beads, and they left very joyfully.
There enters in this cañada at its southern side an estero of immense capacity, that seems to us to be a port; its mouth is open toward the southwest, and we observed that it was covered with reefs that occasioned furious breakers; a little distance further to the north we
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THE ABORIGINES.
saw a great rock that has the shape of a dome, and that at high water is isolated and separated from the coast little less than a musket-shot. From the morro the shore makes to the west and northwest as far as a point of land which we made out cut off from the sea, and between this and another point of the sierra that we left behind, the coast forms a great bight, with shelter from the winds of the south-southeast and west; but it is necessary to examine the anchorage. We named the place La Cañada de San Adriano.
SATURDAY, THE 9TH .- About six of the morning we went out, taking the route toward the northwest, traveling over mesas of fertile land, treeless but covered with grass, and after four hours of journeying, during which we went about three leagues and crossed eight rivulets (arroyos) which run from the mountains to the sea, we halted at the last of these within a glen of moderate breadth, through which runs a stream which terminates in an estero that enters the lower end of the valley or glen. The hills which surround this valley reach to the sea on the west, and prevent our progress along the shore, but leave a free passage to the north and northwest. The party named this halting-place El Estero de Santa Sera- fina. I took the latitude and found it 363 exactly; but Señor Constanzo made it 35° 47'.
SUNDAY, THE IOTH .- After having said mass and hearing all the soldiers, we started out this pleasant morning and took the north-northwest branch of the cañada and traveled along it for the space of two hours and a half, traveling two good leagues. We then left it, as we saw that it turned to the north, where we discov- ered a mountainous region covered with pines and surrounding a cañon of great depth whose sides were thickly clothed with willows, poplars, and other trees. Pursuing our route we encountered a large creek, by whose banks we made our halt for the night, high above the cañada. There came to visit us some seventy gentiles of a rancheria which was not far from us. They
presented us with bowls of pinole, for which we returned beads. They brought and offered to us a bear cub which they had bred up; but we refused it. From this circum- stance the soldiers took occasion to name our place del Osito (of the little bear); I called it San Benvenuto. Latitude 36° 2'.
MONDAY, THE IITH .- This morning, which dawned very cloudy, we left our camping-place. and traveling down to the sea-shore followed the beach to the northwest. We traveled an hour and a half over an easy route, well provided with streams of good water, then halting by a steep rock in a small valley where runs a rivulet into the sea, which rivulet I named El Arroyo de San Nicolas, but the soldiers called it El Cantel. There is abundance of grass and wood. I did not take the latitude, but Señor Constanzo made it 35 35.
TUESDAY, THE 12TH .- At half-past six we started out, following the sea-shore, for the higher lands were extremely broken and rough. Our road abounded with rivulets and creeks whose washed-out channels gave us much trouble, as a great deal of labor had to be expended in creating a passage for the beasts of burden. We came to a point of land that extends into the sea, and then leaving this to the left we entered a narrow gorge opening from the sierra, and followed it toward the north- northeast, traversing various valleys and streams during a journey of three hours, in which we came two leagues, encountering two watering-places on the way. We halted on a hill beside a very deep cañon where there is a pool of water. Apart from us there was a rancheria of Indians, six of whom came to visit us. I named the stream in the cañon after San Vincente. Taking the latitude I found we were in 36° 10'.
WEDNESDAY, THE 13TH .- We left camp at half-past six in the morning, taking a course to the northwest, part traveling by the cañada and part by the high table- lands to the sea-shore, along which the remainder of our two leagues of travel lay. We halted between two rivulets where there was plenty of grass and wood. There came to visit us six of the inhabitants of a rancheria which was not far distant, and at midday they regaled us with presents of pinole in their bowls and some good fresh fish, the Commandante responding, as usual, with beads, to the joy of the natives. We had in front of us the very high and rough sierra, thickly covered with pines, that seems to be the Sierra de Pinos or Sierra de Santa Lucia (a landmark by which they expected to find the bay of Monterey), and its roughness would seem to debar us from crossing the range; accord- ingly our commander halted us for some days in this place, in order to give opportunity for the scouts to explore the surrounding region. I named this place Los Arroyos de Santa Hunuliana.
THE EARLIEST FOOTPRINTS.
Thus we see the footprints of the first white people ever within the limits of the county of San Luis Obispo, excepting the earlier navigators under Cabrillo, who in 1542 sailed along the coast, making landings at several points. The line of march so particularly described is readily traced from the lagunas of Guadalupe, the sand hills of the Arroyo Grande, the Cañada de los Osos, the Moro Rock and the Estero, and thus to the northern line by the coast. They appear to have kept the sea in view, trusting to its guidance rather than venture over the coast mountains, until at last compelled to do so by the determined approach to the ocean of the Santa Lucia Range. Keeping the coast so long as possible, to about latitude 36, they entered the hills, and in a few days of rather difficult traveling reached the head of a small stream that led them to Carmello Bay.
DIFFICULT TRAVELING.
To show the route more clearly we continue the trans- lation from the diary of Father Crespi :-
On the 13th of September, 1769, the expedition of Portala halted at Los Arroyos de Santa Hunuliana. They remained there for the two following days, in order to allow the explorer to discover a practicable route over the mountain chain, which prevented their passage to the north. On the 16th they proceeded onward, entering a cañada surrounded with hills of such steepness that not only men but deer and goats could not ascend them. Further along this cañada divides, one branch looking east-northeast, the other toward the north. Declining somewhat to the northeast, we saw a hill less steep than those of the cañada, by which we decided to ascend, first opening a trail. We traveled a league further, came to its foot, and halted for the night. This halting-place we named Pie de la Sierra de Santa Lucia.
On the 17th they traveled a league, when, coming to the spurs (cuchillas) of the hills that form the side of the cañada that looks to the north, then went down another hill, very large and high, and halted within a hole (hoya) that has enough of water, wood, and pasture near by. This place they named La Hoya de la Sierra de Santa Lucia.
The 18th was spent in resting and opening a road for their further advance. The 19th was similarly spent.
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HISTORY OF- SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
On the 20th they ascended a very high hill, near their halting-place; then following by the side of a narrow and deep cañon which contained running water, they descended to the stream after awhile, and traveled within the canon, which began to widen. There they were compelled to ascend its side again, coming soon to the very highest elevation in the whole region, which seemed to dominate the whole mountainous region, which extended as far as the eye could reach in every direction. They halted here after having traveled two leagues. Their camp was pitched at the mouth of a little valley where there was scarcely enough space to bestow their animals and baggage. This place was named El Real de Los Piñones.
On the 21st they traveled a league toward the north, following summit of the same range, coming then to their halting-place, which was at an arroyo sufficiently capa- cious, and whose beginning (nacimiento) was not far away. It runs from east to west, very much inclosed with live- oaks, alders, and poplars. This arroyo they named de los Llagas.
The next day (22d) they traveled a league toward the north, and remarked the existence of light, small white hills upon their route. These being close together and dome-shaped.
On the 26th they traveled three leagues, mostly down hill, having started with the intention of reaching a stream that the scouts called El Parmelo. Their stop- ping-place for the night was in a very pleasant and fertile locality which the leaders named La Cañada ò Rio de San Elizario, but the soldiers, with their disregard of re- ligious solemnities, called it El Real del Chocolate.
The following day they followed the river in its north-' westward course, halting at El Real del Alamo, having traveled four leagues during the day.
On the 28th day they also made four leagues, following the course of the Carmel, and halting at El Real Blanco.
Their travels on the 29th covered three and one-half leagues, keeping in sight of the river, and halting at El Real de los Casalores.
AT THE BAY OF MONTEREY.
On the 30th they came to the sea, and the Point of Pines.
They were at the bay of Monterey, the object of their search, and here their long march might have ended. A cross was erected and the services of the church held. But the locality did not fill the requirements expected from the glowing description given by the historian of Vizcayno's expedition, and Portala failed to recognize it. Father Crespi remarks that he " supposed the bay had been filled up, as they found a great many sand-hills."
DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.
Portala continued northward, hugging the coast, until passing the locality now known as Half Moon Bay; the scouts, in exploring the hills, came in sight of the bay of San Francisco, being the first known discoverers of that body of water. But Father Crespi says "they recognized it at once by the description they had of it."
Who made the discovery of the bay of San Francisco has been a puzzling question to historians. Who had given the accurate description to which Father Crespi refers? The Spaniards contend that the party of Portala were the dis- coverers, but the English claim that Sir Francis Drake entered it in the Golden Hind, and there repaired his ship in July and August, 1579. He was on a legalized
piratical expedition, and while seeking richly laden ships or defenseless seaport towns paid little attention to geo- graphical descriptions, therefore he has left a doubt as to the precise locality where he refitted in that eventful cruise. His meager descriptions and some false state- ments have deprived him of the honor of discovery, and if he did enter the bay no good came of it to the world. Lord Anson, another English navigator, in 1742, captured a Spanish galleon en route from Manila, from which he obtained a chart of the California coast, and in this is laid down a large bay in latitude 38°, with a narrow en- trance perfectly sheltered from all winds. Ferello had seen the mouth of the bay as he was swept past it in a gale, in March, 1543. An incorrect latitude had been given for it if the bay really had been found, but report of it undoubtedly had been made.
This is further proven by the instructions given by Galvez to Father Junipero Serra, when designating the names by which the missions should be called. The father asked him: " But, sir, is there to be no mission for our Father San Francisco?" The Visitador-General replied: " If San Francisco wants a mission, let him show us his port, and we will put one there." The bay was then named San Francisco, and a few years subsequently a mission was established.
Governor Portala and his party returned from the bay of San Francisco to San Diego, arriving on the 24th of January, 1770, six months and ten days after his depart- ure.
THE MISSIONS IN 1786.
The general story of the missions has been one of fulsome praise of the fraternal love and fatherly care of the Indian converts, but La Perouse, the eminent French navigator, a Catholic, who visited the coast in 1786, gives a different impression. Apart from the missions, he states, there was not a white person in all New California. The mission he refers to was at Monterey. He was re- ceived into the church through a file of Indians, of both sexes ; the edifice was adorned with pictures, copies of Italian paintings, among which his attention was drawn to one representing hell, in which were depicted scenes well calculated to strike terror into the minds of the sav- ages. The habitations of the Indians consisted of about fifty huts, built of sticks and brush and covered with earth. They were the most wretched that could be im- agined, about six feet in diameter, and four feet in height; into these were collected about seven hundred and fifty Christians, including women and children.
The physical condition of these neophytes was in no respect changed by the influence of the missionaries; their filth was insufferable; and when this and the ver- min rendered their habitations insupportable, they were in the habit of setting them on fire, and building new ones. The house of the missionaries and the store- houses were of brick and plastered ..
He compared the establishment to a West Indian plantation, in which fetters, the stocks, and whips were not wanting to complete the picture. Men and women were treated alike to these punishments, except that the women were whipped in a distant inclosure, that their
.
31
THE ABORIGINES.
cries might not be heard by the males, for fear of a revolt. Neglect of the exercises of piety was punished with the lash; and, he says: "Many sins which in Europe are left to divine justice, are here punished by the irons and the stocks. The moment an Indian is baptized, the effect is the same as if he had pronounced a vow for life. If he escapes, to reside with his relations in the independent villages, he is summoned three times to return, and, if he refuses, the missionaries apply to the Governor, who sends the soldiers to seize him in the midst of his family, and conduct him to the mission, where he is condemned to receive a certain number of lashes with the whip." There was no attempt made to teach them the most common arts, and the grain was ground by the women in the primitive Indian method of rubbing it with a roller upon a stone. He presented to the mission a hand-mill, which performed the labor of a large number of women .*
SECOND EXPEDITION TO MONTEREY.
Governor Portala, as before stated, returned to San Diego with the news of the discovery of the bay of San Francisco, but declaring he had seen no bay of Monterey. Of course he had been along its shores and had erected a cross there, but it was so different from the bay of San Diego-so broad an opening that he could not see the northern shore-that he had not recognized it, or, as some believe, had determined not to recognize it, in order that he might continue his explorations to find the sup- posed port of San Francisco. In the latter he succeeded, and is therefore entitled to the honor of making it known to the world.
THREATENED ABANDONMENT OF CALIFORNIA.
The San Antonio, which in July had been sent to San Blas for reinforcements and supplies, had not returned during the winter, and, the stores becoming short, the Governor decided that on the 20th of March he would abandon the mission and the colony would return to Lower California. But on the 19th, the day before the contemplated abandonment, the San Antonio entered the harbor, bringing a great quantity of provisions. This made permanent the occupation of the country. Portala, whether by orders received by the San Antonio or by his own authority, immediately prepared another expedition for Monterey by land and by sea, he taking command of the land expedition, and Father Junipero sailing on the San Antonio. The land party arrived at Monterey on the 23d of May, and the San Antonio on the 3Ist of the same month, 1770. Father Junipero writes that he found the lovely port of Monterey the same and unchanged in substance and in circumstance as the expedition of Sebastian Vizcayno left it in 1603; and that all the officers of sea and land, and all their people assembled in the same glen and under the same oak where the fathers of Vizcayno's expedition had wor- shiped, and there arranged their altar, hung up and rung their bells, sung the Veni Creator, blessed the holy water, set up and blessed the cross and the royal standards, con-
cluding with a Te Deum. And then the name of Christ was again spoken for the first time after an interval of more than 167 years of silence. After the religious ceremonies were over, the officers went through the act of taking possession of the country "in the name of our lord, the King." When this news was received at the City of Mexico it created a profound impression, the bells were rung, and there was general rejoicing throughout the country. Monterey seems ever to have been the central point of the Mexi- can idea of California; the chief port sought by the early explorers, and as a port of refuge in which the Manila galleons might find shelter: the location for the presi- dency of the missions; the pride and capital of the coun- try under Spanish rule, and until the great influx of Americans transferred the center of population and the seat of government farther to the north.
BY THE CROSS OF MONTEREY.
BY RICHARD F. WHITE.
PADRE Junipero Serra, When 'twas dying of the day, Sat beneath the tall dark pine trees By the cross of Monterey, Listening as the simple red men Of their joys and sorrows told, And their stories of the missions, And their legends quaint and old.
And they told him when Portala Rested by the crescent bay, Little dreaming he was gazing On the wished-for Monterey, That this cross on shore he planted And the ground about it blessed, And then he and his companions Journeyed northward on their quest.
And the Indians told the padre That Portala's cross at night Gleaming with a wondrous splendor, Than the noon-sun was more bright;
And its mighty arms extended East and westward, O so far! And its topmost point seemed rising Northward on the polar star.
And they told, when fear had vanished, How they gathered all around, And their spears and arrows buried In the consecrated ground;
And they brought most fragrant blossoms, And rare ocean shells in strings, And they hung upon the cross arms All their choicest offerings.
And the padre told the Indians: "Ah, if rightly understood, What you tell me of the cross here Has a meaning deep and good- For that light is emblematic That the time is near at hand When the faith of Christ the Saviour Will illumine all the land.
To the cross, cling, O my children! In the storm and in the night, When you wander, lost and weary, It will be a guiding light:
Cling to it, and cares and sorrows Very soon will all have passed, And the palm and crown of glory Will be given you at last.
Padre Junipero Serra Thus unto the red men told Of the emblem of salvation And its story sweet and old, Sitting by the crescent bay-side, When 'twas dying of the day At the foot of dark tall pine trees, By the cross of Monterey.
*" Seeking the Golden Fleece."-Stillman.
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
CHAPTER IV. THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.
Mission of San Luis Obispo-Ceremonies of the Founding- Attacked by Indians - The Administrative Power - Free Entertainment - Great Wealth of the Mission - Angered Priests-The Secularization-The Mission Repaired - The Buildings Put to Many Uses-At the End of the First Century-The Centennial of the Mission-San Luis Obispo before 1828-Mission of San Miguel-Rapid Growth-Fruit Trees and Vines-Fruit Trees Destroyed-The Ruined Build- ings - The Ancient Church - A Solid Structure - Father Farrelly-Area of its Possessions-Ranchos Granted -The Mission is Disputed Property-Historic Correspondence- The Occupancy of the Mission -- The Property Restored to the Church-San Miguel in 1822 -- Santa Margarita-A Relic of Father Junipero.
THE mission of San Carlos having been established at Monterey, it was shortly after removed to the valley of the Cormello River, near the little bay of the same name. The mission of San Antonio was established July 14, 1771, and that of San Gabriel on the 8th of September of the same year.
Of the founding of the
MISSION OF SAN LUIS OBISPO
We have the following, translated from " Father Palou's Life of Padre Junipero Serra " for the San Luis Obispo Tribune :-
The venerable father, seeing, from the letters received from the captains of the ships, that they could not come into Monterey, and from the want of mules it was impossible to carry the freight by land, took the trouble to go down to San Diego to communicate with the sailors ; on the way down to found the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, and on his return to found that of San Buenaventura. He set out from Monterey with the Commandante Don Pedro Fages, who went for the same purpose, after he had dispatched the mail, and on the road visited the mission of San Antonio. He rejoiced to see how much the number of Christians had increased, and took with him from there Fray Jose Caballar to establish the mission of San Luis. They traveled. twenty-nine leagues and arrived in sight of the Cañada de Los Osos (the Bears' Pass), where they made a slaughter of those animals to appease the hunger of the Indians. Finding on that opportune place very fruitful land and a crystal stream to fertilize it, they at once erected a grand cross, and having decorated and adorned it, they took possession of the country.
The founding of the mission was on the first day of September, 1772. Our venerable father said mass under a bush arbor, and, setting out on the following day, i. e., the 2d of September, proceeded on his journey to San Diego. He left at the mission two California Indians, to assist, and the Senor Commandante, one Corporal, and four soldiers for protection (a guard), the padre promising that on his return he would increase the number to ten men, for he needed the men to take care of the drove of cattle and the pack-train of provisions. Because of his limited supply, he left for the padre the five soldiers and the above-mentioned Indians, only two arrobas of flour and three almudes of wheat, and to purchase seeds of the Indians he left a box of brown sugar. Leaving the padre very well contented with such a limited supply, placing his confidence in God, he set off on his journey.
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