USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 96
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CHAPTER XLVI.
TOWNS AND LOCALITIES CONCLUDED.
San Miguel-George W. Proctor-Estrella-Las Tablas-C'ho- lome- Bull and Bear Fight.
N the earlier chapters of this book there will be found a portion devoted to the history of those re- markable establishments known as the Franciscan Missions. Therein the history of the San Miguel Mission is fully set forth.
SAN MIGUEL.
Like nearly all of the twenty-one establishments of this kind which have existed in this State, San Miguel has been the precursor of a settlement in the later times. Its site has never yet been quite deserted, and even in the troublous times of the American occupation it con-
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tained a few permanent settlers, Mexicans, who inhab- ited the lonely cells of its mission buildings, even then far on the road to decay. Being a station on the only trail connecting northern California with the southern settlements, some importance attached to it on that ac- count, and a modest and unpretentious eating-house or other place of entertainment for travelers has always been kept up. Its population has of course been but slight. In 1879, on the question of the adoption of the new Constitution, San Miguel Precinct threw thirty-four votes. Although there is and has been a tendency to increase in population and importance - a tendency so well marked that San Miguel has now become one of the principal villages in the county-there have been certain times when its prosperity was at a painfully low ebb, and its future existence very uncertain.
The peculiarities of climate, soil, and other conditions- are briefly these: The weather in summer is extremely warm, perhaps as inconveniently so as in any other part of the county. The extremes of temperature, well at tested, are 110° and 16°, the latter temperature hav- ing occurred in January, 1878, when the ground froze to such a depth that farming operations could not be car- ried on for some days. The soil is of more than me- dium fertility, but embraces only a slight diversity of varieties. The lack of water is most pronounced, and effectually debars the cultivation of most agricultural products, save in exceptional years.
The qualities have thus far prevented the extensive cultivation of any but grain crops, of which wheat has yielded well in certain years. The business of grazing still offers the best inducements to the settlers, and sheep have of late been chiefly bred. These have done well in average seasons, only the severest summers re- quiring them to be driven away. Occasionally consider- able losses have been experienced, both in sheep and cattle, from unpropitious seasons.
The dry years of 1877 and 1879 were so destructive to sheep and cattle that two-thirds of all of them died or had to- be driven to other regions to save them. Ten cents apiece was reckoned as a fair price for sheep in the summer of the former year.
About 1876 San Miguel was spoken of as lively-not ironically, but in earnest. W. H. Menton had leased the old mission buildings and busied himself fitting them up to serve as a hotel. Jacob Althano conducted a shoemaker shop in a portion of the same structure. Messrs. Purcell & Patterson possessed an extensive grazing ranch near town.
In 1877 the population of San Miguel was reckoned at thirty. There were fifteen buildings, including a school house, store, stable, two saloons, blacksmith shop, car- riage shop, express and post-office. The store, a branch of that of Goldtree & Co., of San Luis Obispo, was man- aged by D. Speyer and Isidor Schwartz, the latter of whom became Postmaster. In 1877 this store was robbed by parties unknown of about $400 in money and valuables.
The hotel accommodations at San Miguel were always tolerably good, and especially so if the character and dis-
position of their proprietors be considered. J. B. Butchart conducted the Caledonia Hotel in 1877, selling out next year to Morgan Brians and Sons; and Judge Jeffries, for six or seven years Justice of the Peace for Salinas Township, and widely known in the county, also kept a house of public entertainment.
The year 1878 began with favorable and long-continued rains, and the promise of a good year was fulfilled. Two-thirds of all the stock had been driven away in 1877, and sheep, worth ten cents each in midsummer, rose to $2.00 in January. Cattle which had sold for $8.00 per head had risen to $20.00 or more; 1878 brought what in newspaper slang may be called "an era of prosperity," but the era proved short, for the same affliction of a dry season succeeded in 1879, giving turn to a tolerably fruitful year in 1880.
The monotony of affairs was somewhat shaken in 1881, when the engineers of the Atlantic and Pacific Railway arrived in the vicinity of San Miguel and set their stakes, preliminary to the actual work of building a railroad. As in all other localities under similar circum- stances, a flavor of excitement arose, only to die away with succeeding time. It has been the unanimous opin- ion of mankind for many years that only a railroad is needed to cause a sudden and prosperous development of the interior of San Luis Obispo County. The inhab- itants of San Miguel felicitate themselves that they are on the direct route in and out of the county, and that no railway can penetrate it without passing by their doors; hence they are willing to abide in this belief until the iron horse comes to them.
This short sketch of the ancient settlement of San Miguel cannot better be closed than by inserting a short biographical sketch of Mr. Proctor, an honored resident, and who may be regarded as a type of those hard-handed craftsmen to whom the world owes so much of its ad- vancement.
GEORGE W. PROCTOR.
Mr. Proctor, well known as a most enterprising and valuable citizen of San Luis Obispo, was born in Rhode Island May 5, 1823. After losing his mother, whose death occurred while the family were still at the place of young George's birth, he proceeded to New Hampshire, and resided there until he attained his majority. Up to the year 1858, Mr. Proctor followed the trade of black- smith, supporting himself and wife, whom he had taken in early years, but who died in 1849. The railroad shops of New England furnished him employment mostly during those and following years.
In 1851 he married for his second wife Miss Lucinda Morris. Seven years later the family took its departure for California, and located at Pine Grove in Amador County, where, for a year or two, Mr. Proctor was to work at his old trade. Then for eight years in Elliott, San Joaquin County, he continued the same way of life, at the end of it coming to San Luis Obispo, as to a certain betterment of his fortunes. First, Cambria knew him, and knew him well for twelve years, while he built a hotel, the Proctor House, mentioned in the account of
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
Cambria, which accompanies this work. Upon his ranch, taken up in the earliest years of Cambria, the town came to be built. The hotel mentioned is, and long has been, a landmark in the town. Its present keeper is George S. Davis, as is already set down. In 1879 the Salinas River country held out much inducement to those whose restlessness prevailed, and across the mount- ains to San Miguel went Mr. Proctor, permanently locat- ing near that small town. There he proposes to spend his days, and has improved a portion of land by the planting of fruit trees, which already show a splendid growth. The accompanying lithograph shows clearly the natural scenery surrounding his place, with the improve- ments in the way of trees, wind-mill, house, etc., which he has accomplished in this short time. . Mr. Proctor is now the blacksmith of San Miguel and the Estrella region, and notwithstanding any physical disability, is of irrepressible energy, and equal to whatever emergency may arise. He is full of projects for reform, politi- cal, religious, or moral; knows all about the value of fertilizers, irrigation, and high cultivation; can discuss the virtues of a tariff much better than many Congressmen, and one may be quite sure of getting a fresh and original stock of ideas by listening to him a few minutes.
ESTRELLA.
Southeastward from the old mission of San Miguel, the valley of the Estrella Creek stretches toward the mountains dividing San Luis Obispo from Kern County. A large tract of land this is, which remained, until a very recent time, entirely unoccupied and useless, except as furnishing feed for wild animals and a comparatively small number of cattle and sheep. Since the occupation of the country by civilized people, it has been regarded as a portion of some Mexican grant, and it was along in the 'seventies before it was accurately known to be Gov- ernment land and open to settlement. The further discovery was made that the soil of the region, while dry and barren in appearance, was really fertile and well adapted to agriculture. Consequent upon these discov- eries, a somewhat rapid immigration set in, and credit- able improvements were effected. By 1881 the land on and near the Salinas had been taken up, but still a very large quantity of land of nearly as valuable soil remained vacant further up the valley. This land is a rich, sandy loam, sparsely covered with nutritious grasses. Live- oak and white-oak trees are met with at intervals, and water is obtained at an average depth of thirty feet. School houses were speedily built, and the settlement improved rapidly. Old settlers speak of droughts occurring two years in five. The soil is as rich as that of any part of the Salinas Valley, and not dryer.
Those who farmed in the Estrella in 1876 realized good crops, according to some scribbler, who also re- ported a school of fifty pupils, a first-class wheat yield, and a goodly number of pretty and otherwise attractive girls ! The credit for this embarras de riches was doubt- less owing to the soil itself of unexampled fertility.
Fine crops were reported in 1878, and in the following year 3,000 acres of wheat and barley were sowed in the
Estrella plains, but with a poor result. So general was the failure of crops that several settlers abandoned their locations, and removed to other places. The next year -1880-proved fruitful, and the forty families, who by that time had collected themselves on the four miles square of land, made good and substantial progress in their new homes. Rev. H. E. Adams brought his family to Estrella, and preached the gospel there, becoming a permanent and honored resident. The Reverend Hold- ridge held forth twice in each month on the sublime teachings of Scripture, and a weekly Sunday-school was established with a good attendance. The common school was sufficiently attended to justify eight to ten months' schooling.
T. J. Stevens, J. T. Truman, W. S. Humphreys, W. H. Tuley, George Stowell, and others had previously settled there, and were progressive farmers and valuable citizens. J. Hanson sold his place this year to A. Smith, Windsor to Brookshire, J. Moody to N. Rude, and Messrs. Coda, Pepper, and the brothers James, John and Augustus Huston arrived in the valley. Another arrival was the Rev. J. Brooks, of Colusa, who joined his fortunes with the new settlement.
P. T. Wagner put out his large orchard in these latter years, and had, in 1881; 750 trees of various sorts, which did well, and showed the capabilities of the soil and climate for raising all fruits which can bear a temperature as low as 20º Fahrenheit. There is a prevailing notion, and apparently a well founded one, that the fruits of the eastern section are of better quality than those raised west of the Santa Lucia Range -- a fact due, they say, to the absence of atmospheric moisture. The absence of moisture is a fact not yet disputed, and seems able to fix the truth of the assertion concerning fruit. It also enters into the question of the quality of wheat than which none elsewhere grown is superior to that of Estrella, and indeed of the whole interior region of San Luis Obispo County. Gluten, the portion of wheat flour which makes paste sticky, mucilaginous, is a very valuable component, being most easily digestible of all vegetable food, there- fore suitable for infants and invalids, and besides, in the manufacture of Italian pastes-macaroni, vermicelli, etc., which require a large proportion of gluten to enable them to hold together in process of manufacture. Probably no portion of America is better adapted to the growing of hard varieties of wheat suited to such purposes than is the Estrella region, and experiments may in time suggest such an industry as macaroni-making for the support of a portion of the people of this section.
In 1881 the total acreage in wheat and barley, reckon- ing from Margarita on the south to San Miguel on the north, and from Paso Robles to W. T. Sheid's place, was 8,625 acres, of which thirteen-sixteenths was wheat.
In 1882 the California Immigration Society took, or promised or threatened to take, steps toward filling up the Estrella and Salinas region with immigrants, of whom 500 "honest and industrious families" were reported on the road; but Estrella is not the more populous because of them. The wilderness has remained unpeopled except
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TOWNS AND LOCALITIES CONCLUDED.
those whom the excellence of the land or other circum- stances have brought along.
In 1882 the young people of Estrella organized a literary society whose sessions, devoted to declamation, recitation, vocal and instrumental music, debate, etc., were attended largely.
The topic most in the minds of the people of Estrella has been the railroad. Ever since its advent in the Salinas Valley, it has been supposed at various times to be on the point of starting on into the neighboring county of San Luis Obispo, its natural destination, and many hopes for the advancement of the interior region have been pinned thereon. Besides the obvious lack of transportation the natural and unavoidable lack of water presents the greatest obstacle to successful agriculture in the valley, and this obstacle is one that cannot in any way now visible be obviated. Unless possibly by sinking of artesian wells, already done to some small extent, and fairly successful, the problem remains unsolved.
The fertile tract along Las Tablas Creek supports a considerable population, who maintain themselves chiefly by agriculture and grazing. Mining, too, has been at times a help to the growth of the various settlements thereabouts, as several quite important quicksilver mines have been located and worked in the midst. The prin- cipal of these are the Sunderland and Mahoney Mines, which have been the scene of activity in past years, and may again be worked. The subject of mining being elsewhere treated, the agricultural affairs of the region only will receive attention here.
Las Tablas Creek rises, it would appear, in the hills northwest of the Hot Springs, flows northwesterly and pours its waters into the Nacimiento. Its region is somewhat elevated, its soil largely composed of a black adobe, is very fruitful, and its facilities for grazing very excellent. Within the circuit of some few miles from Adelaide, the post-office for the region receives quite a number of farmers of whom some few items of possible future interest are presented.
Thomas Lewis, Esq., one of the earlier settlers, sold his ranch in 1879 to Jesse Byrd, himself retiring to the Hot Springs. S. P. Sitton, residing in the district, turned his attention to brick-making, at which trade he was pro- ficient. Mr. Burnette, a wealthy citizen, owned and dealt in stock. On his rancho, EI Corral de las Mulas, devoted to sheep-raising, he had 44,000 sheep in 1881. J. F. Black invested his time and money in the purchase and management of a portable saw-mill, of six horse- power, which was for some time in use in various parts of the district, making lumber for fences and buildings. By this means the materials were furnished for several buildings, among others the large dwelling house of Mr. White, erected in 1881.
The educational facilities of the region have been very good. There are schools in the districts of Las Tablas, Sunderland, and Summit, the former with an average attendance of thirty, the others with about twenty each. The Union Literary Society, an organiza- tion devoted to its members' mutual, moral, and mental
improvement, performed publicly to the admiration of all beholders.
In religious matters Las Tablas was not a whit behind the most favored sections. The Cumberland Presbyte- rians early had a church, called a Bethel, where Rev. WV. A. Walker preached in 1879, and in other years. A Methodist, the Rev. McMillan, ministered to those of his persuasion for a time, to be relieved by Rev. Hold- ridge, in 1879, the latter residing at or on the Mulas Rancho. Reverends Adams and Gill, well known in the county, prosecuted a series of warm revival meetings in 1881, and the "Good Samaritans" re-formed their lodge at Las Tablas.
The postal facilities are well maintained, frequently distinguishing the arrival and departure of mails, as Adelaide is upon the mail route between Paso Robles and Cambria. Once located at the Sunderland Mine, the office was removed thence to the Mahoney Mine in 1880, William Weill, Esq., becoming Postmaster, and maintaining the office in his store.
Besides the successful raising of cattle and sheep, in particular, do the inhabitants of Las Tablas claim for their country an uncommon and almost unique adapta- bility to fruit-raising. Peaches, nectarines, plums, apri- cots, nay, all stone fruits have, according to the best evi- dence, done well, both trees and the fruit of them being of the finest and most healthful. This advantage, to- gether with the undoubted purity of the air, and the goodness, if scarcity, of the water offsets nearly what drawbacks exist in the direction of uncertain seasons, at present isolated position and sparseness of population. In the latter regard time will correct it, the people, as they are apt, giving a shrewd look into the character of whoever may come to add his fortunes to theirs. Im- migrant aid societies, working for mere numbers of people, and granges, working for morality usually, and for the quiet contentment and well-being of those already come, will act to offset each other and settle up the Las Tablas as well as other new and remote localities with those suited to such life and such neighbors.
CHOLAME.
In the extreme northeastern part of the county is the great Cholame Rancho, of 26,622 acres, the joint prop- erty of Messrs. R. E. Jack and Frederick Adams, and occupied by Mr. Jack as a sheep range. This extends over the border into Monterey County, and is a valuable property, being similar in its features to the neighboring region already described. The proprietor, Mr. Jack, with his family, reside in San Luis Obispo, where he has one of the pleasantest homes in that city, and is promi- nent in social, business, and public affairs.
A BEAR AND BULL FIGHT.
J. Ross Browne, in riding, many years ago, in the northern part of the county, observed the following in- cident, which he has most vividly described :-
About an hour before sunset I had the misfortune to receive a fall from my mule, and was for a few minutes unable to rise. On regaining command of myself, and
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
finding that no bones were broken, I turned my atten- tion to recapturing my steed, which was grazing at a short distance from me. The obstinate brute refused to allow me to approach him, however, and I was for the nonce reduced to the rank of a pedestrian. Following my recalcitrant beast as closely as I was able, I passed over some two miles of sandy or brushy country, when another difficulty beset me. I discovered that a large band of Spanish cattle, which had been visible for some time in the distance, began to close in toward the line of my route, evidently with the intention of cutting me off. Their gestures were quite hostile enough to inspire a solitary and unarmed footman with uneasiness. A fierce- looking bull led the way, followed by a lowing regiment of stags, steers, and cows, crowding one upon the other in their furious charge. As they advanced, the leader occasionally halted to tear up the earth and shake his horns, but the mass kept crowding on, their tails switch- ing high in the air, and uttering the most fearful bellow- ing, while they tossed their horns and stared wildly, as if in mingled rage and astonishment. I had heard too much of the wild cattle of California, and their hostility to men on foot at this season of the year, not to become at once sensible of my dangerous position.
The nearest tree was half a mile to the left on the margin of a dry creek. There was a grove of small oaks winding for some distance along the banks of the creek, but between the spot where I stood and this place of security, scattered bands of cattle were grazing. How- ever, there was no time to hesitate upon a choice of dif- ficulties. Two or three hundred wild cattle rushing furiously toward one in an open plain assist one in coming to a very rapid conclusion. I know of no posi- tion in which human strength is of so little avail-the tremendous aggregation of brute force opposed to one feeble pair of arms seems so utterly irresistible. I con- fess instinct lent me a helping hand in this emergency. Scarcely conscious of the act, I ran with all my might for the nearest tree. The thundering of heavy hoofs after me, and the furious bellowing that resounded over the plain, spread a contagion among the grazing herds on the way, and with one accord they joined in the chase. It is in no spirit of boastfulness that I assert the fact, but I certainly made that half mile in as few minutes as ever that distance was made by mortal man. When I reached the tree I looked back. The advance body of the cattle were within a hundred yards, bearing down in a whirlwind of dust. I lost no time in making my retreat secure. As the enemy rushed in, tearing up the earth and glaring at me with their fierce, wild eyes, I had gained the fork of the tree, about six feet from the ground, and felt very thankful that I was beyond their reach. Still there was something fearful in being blockaded in such a place for the night. An intolerable thirst parched my throat. In this valley the climate is so intensely dry during the summer heats that the juices of the system are quickly dissipated, and the skin becomes like a piece of parch- ment. My head felt as if being compassed in a band of iron; my tongue was dry and swollen. I would have given all I possessed for a single glass of water.
While in this position, with the prospect of a dreary night before me, and suffering the keenest physical anguish, a very singular circumstance occurred to relieve me of further apprehension regarding the cattle, though it suggested a new danger, for which I was equally unpre- pared. A fine young bull had descended into the bed of the creek in search of a water-hole. While pushing his way through the bushes he was suddenly attacked by a grizzly bear. Their struggle was terrific. I could see the tops of the bushes sway violently to and fro, and hear the heavy crash of driftwood as the two powerful animals writhed in fierce embrace. A cloud of dust rose from
the spot. It was not distant more than one hundred yards from the tree in which I was ensconced. Scarcely two minutes elapsed before the bull broke through the bushes. His head was covered with blood, and great flakes of flesh hung from his shoulders; but instead of manifesting signs of defeat, he seemed to literally glow with defiant rage. Instinct had taught him to seek an open space. A more splendid specimen of an animal I never saw; lithe and wiry, yet wonderfully massive about the shoulders, combining the rarest qualities of symmetry and strength. For a moment he stood glaring at the bushes, his head erect, his eyes flashing, his nostrils dis- tended, his whole form fixed and rigid. But scarcely had I time to glance at him when a huge bear, the largest and most formidable I ever saw in a wild state, broke through the opening.
A trial of brute force that baffles description now ensued. Badly as I had been treated by the cattle, my sympathies were greatly in favor of the bull, which seemed to me to be much the nobler animal of the two. He did not wait to meet the charge, but, lowering his head boldly rushed upon his savage adversary. The grizzly was active and wary. He no sooner got within reach of the bull's horns than he seized them in his pow- erful grasp, keeping the head to the ground by main strength and the tremendous weight of his body, while he bit at the nose with his teeth and raked strips of flesh from the shoulders with his hind paws. The two animals must have been of nearly equal weight. On the one side there was the advantage of superior agility and of two sets of weapons-the teeth and claws; but upon the other hand greater powers of endurance and more inflex- ible courage. The position thus assumed was maintained for some time-the bull struggling desperately to free his head, while the blood streamed from his nostrils-the bear straining every muscle to drag him to the ground. The result of the battle evidently depended on the merest accident.
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