USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 9
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To the remark of friend Murray, "That many a ship- load of grain and beef-hides must have gone back to Spain for these robes," Father Sastre replied in his native tongue: "When you want fine bread you must send the best of flour." And they could afford to "send the best of flour," these old padres, when the mission was in its prime. Are we not told of one father who returned to his native land with $100,000 in gold from this very church? The mission owned some 80,000 head of cat- tle then, and over 70,000 head of sheep; not to mention a small matter of 5,000 or 6,000 horses, and about an equal number of mules. Then we followed the padre
into the belfry. He turned, good-naturedly, to warn us, in his broken English, of the bumps we might encounter from the irregularities of the ceiling over the uneven adobe stairway. Of the five bells brought out from Spain, and marked with the name and date of the San Luis Obispo Mission, only one has lost the use of its tongue, and sits by sullenly in one corner. From here we stepped into the choir, where the instruments were kept on which the mission Indians had once discoursed sweet strains. A kind of base viol, some other stringed instruments, and a near relative of our barrel-organ stood in the loft to- gether ; and these Father Sastre intends to have repaired for the centennial celebration of the founding of the mission, which takes place on the 19th of August, 1872.
THE CENTENNIAL OF THE MISSION.
The centennial celebration was held on the day named, the 19th of August, that being the day of the arrival on the spot of Father Junipero Serra, and the day of San Luis, although the ceremony of the founding of the mission did not take place until September 1, 1772. The centennial celebration was attended by a large con- course, people coming from Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and other points to share in the ceremonies. Rev. Father Codina, of Santa Barbara, de- livered an address, sketching the life of Junipero Serra, and Rev. Father Adam, of Santa Cruz, lectured on the history of the missions of California.
SAN LUIS OBISPO BEFORE 1828.
There are but few records attainable of the past condi- tion of the missions, unless we search the archives of Spain. Going backward to the days of 1846, we would expect to find persons then living with knowledge and memory sufficient to give correct information, or in pos- session of statistics of value and reliability. Rev. Walter Colton, in 1846, was Alcalde of Monterey; was familiar with the language, and en rapport with the prominent men of the country. He wrote a book entitled "Three Years in California," in which he appears to have been very par- ticular in statistical matters. He writes of the mission of San Luis Obispo as follows:
This mission stands thirteen leagues south of San Miguel, and within three leagues of the coast. It has always been considered one of the richest missions in California. The presiding priest, Luis Martinez, was a man of comprehensive purpose and indomitable force. His mission grant covered an immense tract of the rich- est lands on the sea-board. Every mountain stream was made to subserve the purpose of irrigation. He planted the cotton tree, the lime, and a grove of olives, which still shower their abundant harvests on the tables of the Californians. He built a launch that run to Santa Bar- bara, trained his Indians to kill the otter, and often received thirty and forty skins a week from his children of the bow. His storehouse at Santa Margarita, with its high adobe walls, was one hundred and ninety feet long, and well stowed with grain. His table was loaded with the choicest game and richest wines : his apartments for guests might have served the hospitable intentions of a prince. He had 87,000 head of grown cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,500 mares, 3,700 mules, eight sheep farms, aver- aging 9,000 sheep to each farm, and the broad Tulare Valley, in which his Indians could capture any number of wild horses. The major-domo of this mission, in 1827, scattered on the ground, without having first plowed it,
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
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1 20 bushels of wheat, and then scratched it in with things called harrows, and harvested from the same over 7,000 bushels. This was a lazy experiment, but shows what the land may yield when activity shall take the place of indo- lence. Father Martinez returned to Spain, taking with him $100,000 as the fruits of his mission enterprise. On the secularization of the missions in 1834, the property fell a prey to State exigency and private rapacity. A gloomy wreck of grandeur only remains.
MISSION OF SAN MIGUEL.
The mission of San Miguel Archangel was established July 25, 1797, and is the sixteenth in the order in Alta California. The locality is on the west bank of the Sa- linas River, immediately below the junction of the Estrella River, and is surrounded by many square leagues of graz- ing land. Here the two rivers are in broad valleys adorned with large oaks, and along the streams grow cot- tonwood, willow, sycamore, and other trees, and large areas of land susceptible of successful cultivation.
The mission is thirty-four miles north of the city of San Luis Obispo, and about four miles south of the line dividing the county from Monterey. The site was well selected as about midway between the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso and the mission of San Antonio de Padua, which is thirty-nine miles northwest, the found- ing of the latter bearing date July 24, 1771, being the third in age of the missions.
At the date of the establishing of San Miguel the re- gion was thronged with Indians, those of the Tulare Val- ley and of the Sierra Nevada often making incursions, using the easy passes of the Monte Diablo range east of the locality, the valley of the Estrella and the Paso de los Robles on their way to the coast, where they often went in their raids against the coast Indians, and for the pur- poses of trading and fishing. The mission of La Soledad, founded October 9, 1791, farther north on the east bank of the Salinas, completed the chain of protecting and converting establishments between San Luis Obispo and Monterey.
RAPID GROWTH.
San Miguel rapidly grew into importance, becoming one of the most prosperous and populous of the mis- sions, though never so wealthy as that of San Luis Obispo. The fathers soon discovered the adaptability. of the region for sheep grazing, and brought to it large flocks of these animals, which in course of time increased to many thousands, it being reported that at one time the mission, with its dependent ranchos, was the owner of 91,000 cattle, 1, 100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 340 oxen, and 47,000 sheep. The population increased with the material prosperity, and in the height of its power it numbered among its dependents 6,000 Indians, besides the soldiers and civilized people (gente de razon) neces- sary to have about such an establishment.
The ranchos San Marcus and Paso de los Robles were established as farms and stations belonging to, and part of the mission, and other stations as were necessary through- out the country under its control and grazed over by its flocks and herds. The mission also cultivated much land, continually having a large supply of wheat, corn,
and beans. The ranchos of San Marcus and Paso de los Robles were the chief farming localities, and their granaries were kept well filled.
FRUIT TREES AND VINES
Were planted at an early date at the mission and in other localities under the control of the fathers. For a long series of years the people of San Miguel feasted upon the abundant fruit grown, and which arrived to such per- fection in the warm and genial climate of the valley. A few miles north, over the border of Monterey County, is Vineyard Cañon, where still flourish vines planted by the authorities of the mission so many years ago that no one tells the date.
Of the fruit trees none now remain. Upon the secu- larization the priests in charge exerted their utmost to destroy all fruit-bearing trees and vines. As such efforts were made at all the missions, it is very probable they were ordered so to do by distant powers. But a few pear trees still remained at San Miguel. Doubtlessly the conscience-stricken monk who had been ordered to destroy them spared these; perhaps he had fed from their luscious fruit or enjoyed their pleasant shade; or their great beauty had so impressed him that he had learned to love them; or in his benevolence he wished that future generations should share their products; or he would leave them as a reminder of the good things his brothers had enjoyed; for these were left to live and bear. For forty-six years longer they were allowed to grow and beautify the spot, the bright, green, living monuments amidst surrounding decay.
FRUIT TREES DESTROYED.
Their fate is told in the following letter to the editor of the South Coast, published in San Luis Obispo in 1879:
SAN MIGUEL, Feb. 16, 1879.
EDITOR SOUTH COAST: The mission of San Miguel was created near 100 years ago, and about that time the mission fathers caused to be planted, at the cost of considerable trouble and necessarily quite an expense (at that date), some pear trees; and among those that were put out at that time there were a few that survived the storms of winter and the droughts of summer for near a hundred years and lived. Of course, standing as it were as guardians keeping watch over the old church buildings, and having such a history attached to them, living monuments continually referring the spectator to the past century, and seeming to say " that all works of art constructed by the mission fathers may crumble, fall, and pass away, but we, if you will permit us, will stand here forever as an evidence of the good work of those who placed us here!" And so the people loved them, and called them a landmark of great value. In spring- time, when in bloom, they were an ornament to the place; delicious fragrance filled the air from their blos- soms, and in summer they were laden with fruit. But alas! the ax in the hands of a stranger laid them low, and the lover of the sublime works of nature, and those who can appreciate the value of these evidences of ancient days when the good mission fathers were forced to combat every hardship imaginable in order to plant the first bud of civilization in our country, can only mourn their loss.
They are gone, and with them the greatest attraction
37
THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.
of the church property at the Mission San Miguel. They were cut down by a man who, upon being asked why he did it, replied that the present priest of this parish told him to do so; and if he did, I do not know by what right the priest ordered it done, or whether he had any right at all; but I do know this deed is considered an assump- tion of power, and be he priest or parishioner, this one act is condemned by the whole community.
Such acts of vandalism have been common about all the missions of California, generally through the malice and vengeance of the ecclesiastical power, but none appearing more malicious than the despoiling of the impoverished mission of San Miguel. In some localities, where cities have grown up around the old mission sites, the necessities of business, or its greed, have been plead in justification of the destruction of the monuments of the earliest civilization and settlement of the land, and now, at San Miguel and elsewhere, but the indestructible walls and crumbling ruins remain.
THE RUINED BUILDINGS.
The church and the ruins at San Miguel vividly impress the beholder with the great extent and impor- tance of the establishment in the days of its prime. Over forty acres of ground these ruins extend, now broken walls of adobe, stone, and tiles, with partly- standing dwellings and store-houses, telling in silent tones of the thousands of dark-skinned converts who once dwelt in their precincts in quiet subservience to their spiritual fathers, busy with their tasks or sports, and attentive to the mysterious calls of the mission bells. The sun-dried bricks remain, though slowly crumbling to the earth of which they are made; but the people are scattered; have disappeared; have passed from the earth. not more able to encounter the fierce energy of a self- sustaining, high civilization than are their adobe structures to withstand the abraiding storms of time.
THE ANCIENT CHURCH.
But the church building appears indestructible. This was erected early in the present century, and is one of the largest and most solidly constructed of the old missions of California. The building stands upon a plain three- fourths of a mile west of the Salinas River and faces to the east. A long, low wing extends to the south, orig- inally 490 feet in length, about half of which is now in ruins. An arcade extends from the church in front of the wing 225 feet, of which 13 arches, supported by pillars, still remain, with other broken pillars and founda- tions, indicating that the arcade once occupied the whole front. With the exception of one or two places where repaired by shingles, the entire roof is covered with tiles of semi-cylinders of earthenware, each about two feet in length, half an inch in thickness, six inches in diameter at one end and five at the other, lapping into each other, put on in two layers, the first with the concave surface up, forming gutters, the latter with the reverse covering the joints of the under layers. Substantial rafters of poles and hewn timbers were used, across which a lattice of smaller sticks were lashed with thongs of rawhide, and on these the tiles were laid, holding themselves in position
by their own weight, and sometimes better secured by cement.
Such was the universal method of constructing the roofs of all buildings in California, adobes forming the walls, prior to the introduction of frame and wooden structures by the Americans after the discovery of gold in the Sierra Nevada.
A SOLID STRUCTURE.
The Mission church, the central object of observation, is a very substantial and capacious structure. The dimensions are 230 feet in length by 44 feet in width on the exterior; is 45 feet in height to the eaves, and the walls are 7 feet in thickness. These are of adobe, containing a mixture of cement, which is also in the mortar in which they were laid, and appear as solid and endurable as brick or stone. The floor is of brick, or hard- burned tiling, as is a broad porch in front. The inner walls are plastered and frescoed, the frescoing represent- ing a gallery with pillars, and is as fresh, apparently, as when painted. Through all the vicissitudes and despoila- tions the venerable pile has undergone, the sacred orna- ments of the church still remain. In the western end is the altar. Over it stands its patron saint, Michael the Archangel, in life size and very handsome, clad in gorgeous apparel of gold and crimson, holding aloft his sword of light. Above him is a broad banner, on which is embla- zoned the all-seeing eye, with rays of light radiating from it. On the right side of the altar, carved in wood and brightly painted, is the statue of St. Joseph holding the infant Jesus in one arm and bearing the shepherd's staff in the other. Opposite is the statue of the founder of the order, St. Francis de Assisi. By the side of the altar is a painting representing St. John the Evangelist, with one foot resting on a skull. There are other paintings of various sacred objects, generally in brilliant colors, and with the bright ornaments of the altar are in vivid contrast with the ruin, decay and neglect seen everywhere about the old mission. Around the walls are hung many small pictures, dimly seen in the faint light permitted to enter the great hall, which, from the great thickness of the walls, ever contains a cellar-like, chilly atmosphere. No seats were ever provided for the congregation, and all devout worshipers were required to kneel upon the hard and cold floor of tiles. In this, however, an innovation has recently been made, and a few pews have been constructed near the altar, sufficient for the number who assemble at the fortnightly service as held at the present time.
FATHER FARRELLY.
Since 1878 the mission has been under the charge of Rev. Philip Farrelly, who is devoted to its preservation. The many bishops and priests who have preceded Father Farrelly have left no record of their ministry at the old mission, but with their communicants have passed away.
AREA OF ITS POSSESSIONS.
The great area of land once occupied by the mission was taken from its control at the time of the seculariza-
38
HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
tion. Previous to that its authority extended through- out the whole region of country comprising the northern and eastern part of San Luis Obispo County, and over all ranged its flocks and herds at will, and the fathers gathered their Indian converts. Manufactories of woolen blankets and cloths were established, crude and simple they must have been, operated by the Indian neophytes, the product used for the comfort of those dependent upon the mission and supplying others. Trade was carried on with other missions and with shipping on the coast.
RANCHOS GRANTED.
After the secularization large grants were made of the land formerly subject to San Miguel, the Asuncion Rancho getting 39,224.81 acres; Atascadero, 4,348.23; Cholame 13,919.82; Huer Huero, 15,684.95; Paso de Robles, 25,993.18; Santa Ysabel, 17,774.12; and a vast area remained unsought and unclaimed.
THE MISSION IS DISPUTED PROPERTY.
The mission, as a church, or individual, or corpora- tion, no longer existed, no longer possessed property, and finally, the buildings themselves were taken posses- sion of as abandoned property, in some instances taken for public purposes, and in others by private individuals. They were converted into town halls, drinking saloons, stores, lodging-places for travelers, and other base uses, even prior to the occupation of the country by the Americans in July, 1846. In several instances they were entirely deserted and unoccupied at that date, after which people took possession and claimed the buildings, orchards, vineyards, and surrounding land as their own. The Mission of San Luis Obispo had been transferred to John Wilson, and Mr. Read took possession of the buildings at San Miguel.
HISTORIC CORRESPONDENCE.
The following correspondence gives a glimmering idea of the status of the mission property at the date given, as well as an original letter from one who has since borne a conspicuous part in our national history :-
THE OCCUPANCY OF THE MISSION.
STATE DEPARTMENT OF THE TERRITORY OF CAL., } MONTEREY, September 15th, 1847. -
SIR: In reply to so much of your letter of the 4th inst. as relates to the mission of San Miguel, the Gov- ernor directs me to say that the question of title to the lands of said mission cannot now be decided; and that until the subject can be further investigated, the present occupant, Mr. Read, will be left in possession. As a difficulty seems to occur in determining what rooms in the mission properly belong to the parish priest, the Governor directs that you select three rooms in said mission for the use of the priest, and put him in posses- sion of such rooms; you will, however, in this selection choose such rooms as will give the least inconvenience to the family of Mr. Read.
Let both the priest and Mr. Read fully understand that their possession is in no way to affect the validity of existing titles.
With respect to the possession of the buildings, etc., at San Luis Obispo, as directed in my letter of the 24th
of August, I have now to remark that that order was not intended in any way to affect the validity of existing claims to said property. It was only temporary in its character, and cannot affect any title or claim which Mr. Wilson and others may have to the mission or mission lands. You will therefore proceed to put the parish priest in possession of such lands and tenements as in your opinion properly belonged to the priest, on the 7th of July, 1846. You must, however, let the priest and other claimants perfectly understand that this posses- sion gives them no title whatever, but is merely a tem- porary arrangement for the mutual convenience of the parties concerned, the question of title being left for future decision. Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
To DON J. MARIANO BONILLA, H. W. HALLECK,
Alcalde of San Lieut. of Engineers and
Luis Obispo, Cal. Sec. of State for Ter. of Cal.
THE PROPERTY RESTORED TO THE CHURCH.
Only occasional letters of the character of the pre- ceding one are now to be found, but the few in exist- ence are like the fossil remains in the rocks, showing the footprints in the progress of time by which we may trace our country's history. Mr. Read and his family subsequently met a tragic fate, all being murdered, the particulars of which will be found in the later pages of this book.
For many years the title to the mission property was a matter of doubt, having been alienated by order of Governor Michiltorena in 1842, but the Commissioners, appointed to settle California land cases accorded to the Catholic Church the ownership of the buildings and such ground as was inclosed and under the immediate charge of the priest of the mission at the time of the change of flag. Under this decision the mission of San Luis Obispo became owner of about fifty-two acres of land, known as the mission garden, and to San Miguel was accorded thirty acres. Since the church has regained exclusive ownership, portions of the building at San Miguel have been devoted to various purposes, leased by the church for hotel, saloon, shops, etc. A small village is now built close by, and across the Salinas surveyors have marked the station of San Miguel on the Southern Pacific Railroad, yet to be built.
SAN MIGUEL IN 1822.
Rev. Walter Colton in 1849 wrote of this mission as follows :-
This inland mission is situated sixteen leagues south- east of San Antonio, on a barren elevation; but the lands attached to it sweep a circuit of sixty leagues, and em- brace some of the finest tracts for agriculture. Of these the Estrella Tract is one; its fertility is enough to make a New England plow jump out of its rocks; and a hun- dred emigrants will yet squat in its green bosom, and set the wild Indians and their warwhoop at defiance. In 1822, this mission owned 91,000 head of cattle, 1, 100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 170 yoke of work- ing oxen, and 47,000 sheep. The mules were used in packing the products of the mission to Monterey, and bringing back dry goods, groceries, and the implements of husbandry. But now the Indian neophytes are gone, the padres have departed, and the old church only re- mains to interpret the past.
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THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.
SANTA MARGARITA.
A third mission is often claimed for the county, as hav- ing been established at a very early date at Santa Mar- garita. A building was erected on the sightly bench of land in the lovely valley northeast of the Santa Lucia Range, about eight miles north of San Luis Obispo and dedicated to its patroness, Santa Margarita, but it was only a branch of the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, and under its management. The walls of rough stone and cement, a coarse unartistic structure, still stand, interesting as a reminiscence of the past and picturesque as a ruin of one of the sacred edifices of early California. Rev. Walter Colton refers to this as built for a granary to one of the ranchos cultivated by the good Father Martinez, of San Luis Obispo, and that it was usually well filled with grain. A great rancho now embraces the old ruin, the rancho of Santa Mar- garita, of 17,735 acres in extent, and the owner, Gen. P. W. Murphy, exercises the protecting care over the pleas- ant and romantic locality.
A RELIC OF FATHER JUNIPERO.
A writer to the San Francisco Bulletin, of a recent date, relates the following of a discovery of an original chronicle of the early settlement of California :-
In turning over someantiquated books and papers at the mission of Santa Barbara, in 1864, the reverend father in charge of that establishment found an old manuscript memorial on the earliest timesin California in the handwrit- ing of Father Junipero Serra, which had been laid away since the year 1773. How it got into the Santa Barbara Mission, which was not founded till 1786, two years after the old friar's death, is now unknown, but from the con- tents, which freely set forth the arbitrary conduct of Pedro Fages, who was Military Commandante and then Gov- ernor of the colony from 1782 to 1790, there is no doubt that the Mexican Government suppressed its publication at the time Junipero's biography by Palou was printed at Mexico in 1787. Indeed, on examination of this biography, we find the matters pertaining to this lost chronicle are very briefly and gingerly alluded to, and consequently it is of real value in making clearer the early history of California.
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