History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 82

Author: Angel, Myron; Thompson & West
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Calif. : Thompson & West
Number of Pages: 538


USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 82


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The route of the railroad was not defined. The San Luis Obispo Railroad Company were already at work constructing their road, and the new company came in conflict with them. This promised a bitter conflict. Both companies entered upon the work. The San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Valley Railroad Company began work in a detrimental manner, constructing from the People's Wharf at Avila in March, 1875. This company being of very rich capitalists, appeared to have the advantage, and in April, 1875, consolidated with the other, taking the horse railroad and wharf built by John Harford, and the San Luis Obispo Railroad Company went out of existence.


The San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Valley Rail- road Company bought of Harford his wharf and road, paying him $30,000 for the property, and opposition was at an end. The construction of the road progressed slowly. The question whether or not the railroad would pay a profit on the cost of construction was discussed. Great doubt was expressed, and the people of the county were asked to subscribe to the stock. Land owners along the route made a gift of the right of way, the Steele Brothers giving a strip of land of several miles in length through the Corral de Piedra, Pismo and Balsa de Chemissal Ranchos, and the Dana Brothers a strip of fourteen miles through the Nipomo Rancho. Others gave smaller tracts or received nominal compen-


sation. The Avila Brothers gave depot grounds and right of way on the San Miguelito Rancho. The town of Avila was laid out at the beach, and a town named Harford, now Root, or Miles Station, five miles from San Luis Obispo. To this last station the road was com- pleted in December, 1875, and came to a temporary standstill. There it was feared would be the permanent terminus. The manager at that time was Dr. John O'Farrell, and the . engineer, Mr. L. M. Shortt. The manager said the people of San Luis Obispo must sub- scribe to $25,000 of stock if they wished the road extended to the town. Two public spirited men, Messrs. C. H. Johnson and C. H. Phillips took the matter in hand, and procured $28,500 of subscription. Work was resumed and the road completed to San Luis Obispo in August, 1876, and the opening for business was cele- brated by a grand excursion and picnic August 23d. Joseph W. Nesbitt then succeeded John O'Farrell as Superintendent. The road had cost $180,000, to which should be added $30,000 paid Harford for his franchise and improvements, he having expended that amount before the San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Valley Railroad was consolidated with his, and the wharf was . named Port Harford in his honor. The contractors for the construction were Martin & Gorrill, of San Fran- cisco. Among the original and principal stockholders were Charles Goodall, C. Nelson, George C. Perkins, John O'Farrell, N. Goldtree, and Blochman & Cerf. The rates of fare were ninety cents to and from Port Harford and $1.25 for the round trip.


San Luis Obispo remained the terminus until 1881 when the road was extended to Arroyo Grande; in April, 1882, to Santa Maria, or Central City in Santa Barbara County, and in October, 1882, it was completed to Los Alamos. During this period Mr. C. A. Haskin was Superintendent. The large steamers Ancon, commanded by Captain Ingalls, and Orizaba, Captain Johnson, ply upon the coast, and connect with the railroad in carrying freight and passengers, going north and south every five days. The steamer Los Angeles makes weekly trips, and others irregularly.


Mr. Charles Goodall, President of the railroad com- pany, relates that when he and Mr. Haskins were explor- ing for the route and selecting sites for depots, they came to the young city of Santa Maria. Near there it was necessary to have a depot, and they took an observation of the ground. A man was introduced as the Mayor of Central City. Mr. Goodall said he would like to make arrangements for some land for their buildings, side-tracks, etc. "Oh take all you want, anywhere around here," giving a wide sweep of his arm. The broad stretch of sandy plain was given in a princely manner, and the Mayor was counted a great and public spirited man. After this the weary and hungry explorers repaired to the chief hotel of the city, and Mr. Goodall was much sur- prised to find that the generous Mayor was the cook. But he got the land.


PACIFIC COAST RAILWAY.


In September, 1882, the San Luis Obispo and Santa


32I


MAILS, ROADS, AND RAILROADS.


Maria Valley Railroad was transferred to the Oregon Navigation and Railway Company. The extension of the road from Santa Maria to Los Alamos had been made by the Pacific Coast Railroad Company, being composed of the same stockholders as the first division. September 23, 1882, these two companies consolidated and gave the name of Pacific Coast Railway Company to the consoli- dation.


The present officers are Charles Goodall, President; J. M. Fillmore, Manager and General Freight and Ticket Agent; W. R. Price, Assistant General Freight and Ticket Agent, and W. H. Mills, Auditor. The road extends from Port Harford, via San Luis Obispo, Steeles, Arroyo Grande, Nipomo, Santa Maria, and Los Graciocos to Los Alamos, a total length of sixty-four miles, of the usual narrow-gauge of three feet. The equipment con- sists of five locomotives, four passenger coaches, one baggage and express car, one caboose, and one hundred and twenty platform cars; twenty combination box cars, ten hand cars, and ten rubble cars, with well-constructed and capacious depot buildings and warehouses at the several stations.


Since the change of management very important improvements have been made at and near the wharf terminus. From the mouth of San Luis Creek westerly to Point San Luis the bay flows against a precipitons bluff of rocks. The railroad, as first made, climbed upon the rocks, as appeared the cheapest route, making a grade 116 feet per mile, and necessitating long, high and dangerous trestle bridges. Over this grade the engines could draw but five loaded cars at the utmost. The increasing business demanded a less grade, and one was cut in the cliff on a level with the wharf and fifteen feet above the water at high tide. Some deep cuts, rock- filling, and piling were required, but an excellent road was made, commencing work in February, 1883, and completing it May following. The honor of throwing the first shovel of earth in this important improvement was given Mrs. Dr. Hays, as the pioneer American lady of San Luis Obispo, and the work was carried on under the superintendency of Mr. L. Fillmore, an experienced rail- road builder and father of Manager Fillmore. The wharf was also extended 1,000 feet and 80 feet in width, reach- ing near 3,000 feet into the bay, where the deepest ves- sels can lie in safety, and a large and architecturally handsome building for warehouse and offices built near the outer extreme, 200 feet in length by 40 feet in width. By means of the substantial pier built, and the protection afforded by Point San Luis, the harbor is made one of the best on the coast, and as there is no bar nor narrow strait or entrance leading to it, but the mere doubling of the Point, it is of easier access than San Francisco or San Diego, which are land-locked bays. By the con- struction of a breakwater on the reef of Point San Luis, which has often been proposed in Congress, the harbor of San Luis Obispo will be made one of the best and most accessible on the western coast of America, and of sufficient capacity for the commerce of all the region contributary to it by existing and projected lines of rail- roads.


The projected lines are the extension of the Pacific Coast Railway southerly through Santa Barbara County, and a branch up the Santa Maria and Cuyama Rivers, through San Emidio and Kern Lake Valleys to the South- ern Pacific at or near Bakersfield, a length, from San Luis Obispo, of about 150 miles; also another branch north- erly through Chorro or Van Ness Canon, to the Southern Pacific at San Miguel.


J. M. FILLMORE.


Since the transfer of the San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Valley Railroad to the Oregon Railway and Navi- gation Company, Mr. J. Millard Fillmore has been Mana- ger of the road, now called the Pacific Coast Railway. This gentleman is a native of the State of New York, born in Fayetteville, Onondaga County, in March, 1849. His father is Mr. L. Fillmore, a relative of ex-President Millard Fillmore, whose name he gave his son, and his mother is Susan J. Fillmore, and father and mother were both natives cf Onondaga County, New York. They moved to Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, in 1856, where the father engaged in contracting and railroad building, and at which business he has been engaged chiefly to the present time. In Pennsylvania young J. M. passed his youth attending the common schools and learning the business of telegraphing and railroading in all its branches. During the winter of 1868-69 he attended school at Fort Edwards Institute, at Fort Edwards, New York, and then resumed his railroad work. He was employed on the Delaware and Lackawanna and Western Railroad, from 1863 to October, 1869-excepting the time spent at Fort Edwards-as Superintendent's Clerk, agent and telegraph operator, brakeman and conductor, going through all the grades of the business, and in 1868 was promoted to be Assistant Superintendent of Construction. This position he resigned in October, 1869, to accept the position of Train Dispatcher on the Union Pacific Railroad at Lar- amie, Wyoming Territory, to which place his parents had removed. In April, 1872, he resigned and entered into the business of contracting and building, and to accept the appointment of Warden of the Wyoming Peniten- tiary. This he held for several years, and in 1876 moved to California and accepted a position on the North Pacific Coast Railroad, resigning in 1880 to accept the offer of General Superintendent of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, and removed to Portland, Ore- gon. In 1882 that company became the owners of the coast line of steamers and of the San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria Valley and Pacific Coast Railroad, and Mr. Fillmore, in September, was sent to San Luis Obispo as Manager, etc., which duties he most efficiently exercises at the present time. He is essentially a railroad man, belonging to a railroad family, his father being an exten- sive contractor and builder, and his cousin, J. A. Fill- more, brought up in his father's family, being the General Superintendent of the Central and Southern Pacific Rail- roads and branches.


J. M. Fillmore was married in October, 1870, in Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, to Miss Ella L. Staples, daughter of Richard S. and Mary A. Staples, one of the


41


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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.


wealthiest and most prominent families of that busy and prosperous town. Two very bright and lovely children bless the union, Hattie E., aged eleven years, and Wil- liam S., aged seven years. The family reside in San Luis Obispo. Mrs. Fillmore is a member of the Episcopal Church, and is highly honored in society.


CHAPTER XXXVI. COAST OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.


Coast Survey-Pismo Wharf-Bay of San Luis Obispo-North of San Luis Obispo-Bay of San Simeon-The People's Wharf- Rates of Wharfage-Petition for a Breakwater-In the Assem- bly --- San Luis Obispo a Port of Delivery-Wreck of the Har- lech Castle.


HE county of San Luis Obispo extends along the Pacific Ocean, in a northerly and northwesterly course, from opposite the mouth of the Santa Maria to where the Sixth Standard South, Monte Diablo base, enters the ocean, or to a point about ten miles northwest of the Piedras Blancas. The ocean on its borders is truly a pacific sea, being for the greater part of the year as calm as an inland lake, and almost everywhere a land- ing can be effected, excepting in times of storm or heavy weather. The same can be said of all the California coast south of Monterey, and at many coves, points, and beaches, wharves have been constructed, or moorings laid, so that the products of the country find convenient shipment. In the severe storms of winter, no complete harbor exists, although the cove embraced by Point San Luis, in San Luis Obispo Bay, affords partial protection, and offers the opportunity to create an excellent harbor. Surveys have been made by the General Government, investigating the feasibility and need of such improve- ment, and the whole coast has been repeatedly surveyed by different Governments.


COAST SURVEY.


Soon after the occupation of the country by the United States, the coast was more accurately surveyed, under the directions of Prof. A. L. Bache, of the United States Coast Survey, and the first report was published in 1852. These surveys have been continued, under charge of Prof. George Davidson, who published, in 1869, a vol- ume entitled, "Coast Pilot of California, Oregon and Washington." From this many of the statements herein published were obtained.


The coast of San Luis Obispo is divided into two dis- tinct features, lying between Point Sal * in Santa Barbara County, on the south, and Piedras Blancas on the north. The first division extends from Point Sal to Point San Luis, making such an indentation as to form San Luis Obispo Bay. The second, the irregular shore line ex- tending north from Point San Luis to where the Santa Lucia Range abuts upon the coast, at the northern ex- treme of the county. "North of Point Sal the mount-


ains fall back, and the shore is formed of sand-hills. The general trend is north, until the coast commences sweep- ing westward to form the bay of San Luis Obispo, and the shores become high and abrupt." From Point Sal to Point San Luis the distance is about seventeen miles, in a north-northwesterly direction. The course of the beach is slightly east of north for about fifteen miles; then curves around to the northwest, west, south, and southeast, in a line of ten miles, making the indentation known as the bay of San Luis Obispo.


PISMO WHARF.


The first division is usually called the Pismo Beach, and opposite the Pismo Rancho a wharf was constructed, in 1881, extending through the surf to deep water, afford- ing a convenient landing for steamers and sailing vessels. In olden times, and up to the period when wharves were built, landings were effected in fair weather in small boats, and with lines through the surf on the broad sand- beach. Thus it was an independent harbor, and a rather inconvenient one, and the increasing business of later years demanded the construction of a wharf, which has proven of great benefit to the agricultural interests of the neighboring country.


BAY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.


The second division comprises the semi-circle sweep- ing around to the west, including the Avila Beach and Point San Luis. This section makes the harbor of San Luis Obispo. Formerly, as in other parts of the coast, landings were effected in boats and lighters through the surf, and only those places were selected which were ac- cessible, without improvement, to teams or pack animals on the shore. Such a place on this bay was well into the eastern part of the bend of the land, where the swells often made · the landing very dangerous. At a place called the Cave Landing, a small wharf was built in 1860, where small boats and lighters brought passengers and goods, and in 1869 a larger one called the People's Wharf was built at the Avila Beach, where steamers and vessels could fasten, and discharge and receive cargo. This was exposed to the beating waves of the ocean dur- ing southwest storms, preventing landing, and more than once breaking it away. In the meantime it was observed that further to the westward the waves broke less heavily, and that vessels remained more securely. But there the beach was of very difficult access, the high and rocky bluffs coming to the water's edge. Observing this, Mr. John Harford and others determined to make there a landing, and so quarried a way for a railroad, and built a wharf to deep water, making Port Harford. Work upon this was commenced in 1872, and so far completed in 1873 as to receive shipping and transport goods over the railroad, operated by horses, to a point accessible to teams, a distance of about two miles.


With this, greatly improved since that time, the harbor has become one of the most convenient on the coast; and with a breakwater, which the General Government has been petitioned to construct, a most perfect harbor will be made.


" So named by Vancouver, in 1793, after Capt. Hermenegildo Sal, then Commandante of the presidio of Monterey.


323


THE COAST OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.


A few miles north of Point Sal the Santa Maria River enters the ocean, making the dividing line between Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties. A few miles north is the Oso Flaco, and midway of the beach enters the Arroyo Grande, after receiving the Pismo and Arroyo Verde Creeks near its mouth, and the San Luis Creek enters the northern bend of the land encircling the bay.


Of San Luis Obispo Bay the Coast Survey of 1852, republished in 1867, says :-


This bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the south- ward, and even during heavy northwest weather a bad lateral swell rolls in, rendering it an uncomfortable anchorage. The landing is frequently very bad, and often impracticable, but the best place is in the month of the creek, keeping the rocks at its mouth on the star- board hand. Fresh water may be obtained at a small stream opening on the beach half a mile west of the creek. In the coarse sandstone bluff, between these two places, are found gigantic fossil remains.


Off Point San Luis, which forms the southwest part of the bay, are some rocks, and in making the anchorage vessels should give this point a berth of half a mile, passing in six or eight fathoms; run on a north by east course, and anchor three-fourths of a mile from shore in six fathoms, sticky bottom. Four fathoms can be got about a fourth of a mile from the beach. In winter, anchor far enough out to clear Point San Luis if a south- easter should come up. During southerly weather land- ing is frequently effected at the watering place when im- practicable at the creek.


The distance from the rock off Point San Luis to the mouth of the creek is a mile and a half; from the same rock to a white rock bearing north 70° east the distance is two and a quarter miles, and a black rock lies half way between the white rock and the mouth of the creek.


The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station is on the bluff at the east side of the small fresh-water stream, west of the creek, and its geographical position is: Lati- tude 35° ro' 37.5" north; longitude, 120° 43' 31" west; or, in time 8 hours, o2 minutes, 54.1 seconds.


Tides .-- The corrected establishment, or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit and the time of high water, is ro hours, 8 minutes. The mean rise and fall of the tides is 3.6 feet; of spring tides 4.8 feet; and of neap tides 2.4 feet. The greatest observed differ- ence between the two low waters of one day was 4 feet, and the greatest difference between the higher high and lower low waters of one day was .8.3 feet.


Since the report of the Coast Survey the wharf of Port Harford has been constructed and a comparatively safe harbor made, lacking only a breakwater to make it avail- able as a place of refuge and an accommodation to the great commerce the business of the county and neigh- boring country demands.


NORTH OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.


The Coast Survey gives the following description of the northern coast :-


To the northwest of the bay of San Luis Obispo rises to a great height Monte de Buchon, which is readily dis- tinguished in coming from the northward or the southward.


The northwestern part of this mountain, though cut by deep gulches, is very plainly marked by three terraces, each several hundred feet in height; no other point of the coast is so decidedly marked.


From Point San Luis the coast trends in a straight line west-northwest for a distance of eight miles, and


close along the shore of this stretch are several large rocks. Thence the coast trends abruptly to the north, to the high, conical rock called El Morro, distant eight miles-these two shores forming the seward base of Mount Buchon.


From El Morro the shore line gradually trends to the westward, thus forming a deep indentation or bay, called Los Esteros on the old Spanish charts, but designated as the Estero Bay on the Coast Survey chart. Behind El Morro are several lagoons or streams, where a harbor for light-draft vessels could be made at a comparatively small expense, and the high land retreats for some distance, leaving the shore low and sandy, while the north shore is rugged and guarded by rocks. The northwest point of the bay is called "Punta de los Esteros" on the old Spanish charts, and bears northwest half north from the west point of Mount Buchon, distant thirteen miles. A line joining these points shows that the bay is about five miles deep. [In this bay is the landing of Cayucos, where Capt. James Cass built a substantial wharf in 1873, with tramway, warehouses, etc.]


From Point Los Esteros to the western point of anchorage of San Simeon, the coast runs nearly straight northwest by west for a distance of fifteen miles. The shores are not so bold as to the southward or northward, and the mountains, fall back, leaving a fine, rolling coun- try of no great elevation, and well suited to agriculture. We have seen wild oats growing here over six feet in height-not one or two stalks, but in acres.


BAY OF SAN SIMEON.


This is a small, exposed roadstead, but affords tolerably good anchorage during northwest winds. The southwest point of the bay bears northwest by west from Point Es- teros, and is distant fifteen miles. The indentation of the shore line forming the bay trends between north-northwest and north for half a mile, and then sweeps away to the westward about a mile and a half, gradually taking a southeast direction. The land behind the bay is com- paratively low and gently rolling, the high hills retiring well inland. The high hills behind this shore are marked by redwood trees along their crest line, and upon some of their flanks.


.


Vessels coming from the northward may run boldly round the southwest point, within a few hundred yards of the shore in eight or nine fathoms, round up to north, and anchor anywhere off the sand-beach, in five fathoms, hard bottom, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from shore. The beach is half a mile long, stretching well out, and rendering the landing disagreeable with any swell; but in such cases it is usual to land at the western part of the beach. Eastward of the sand-beach the shore line is bluff and guarded with rocks. Vessels from the southward must make sharp tacks close in shore, or they will assuredly miss it. About eight miles south of the Piedras Blancas is a three-mile stretch of timber upon the low, rolling ridge bordering the shores, and two miles northward of this timber is another but smaller extent of wood. These are good marks, but the only sure marks for it are the Piedras Blancas. It was in this bay that the steamship Pioncer, in 18-, put in leaking badly; was driven or dragged upon the beach, and after being abandoned by the underwriters, was got off and carried to San Francisco.


In making this harbor from the northward vessels must sight the Piedras Blancas (White Rocks) four miles west three-quarters north of the southwest point of San Sim- eon. They are two large, white, sharp-topped rocks, and nothing else like them is found on this part of the coast. When the outer rock bears north-northwest about two miles distant, it bears a very striking resemblance to a lion couchant. The geographical position of the outer


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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.


and larger rock is, approximately: Latitude 35° 39' north; longitude 121° 15' west.


From Point San Luis they bear northwest three- quarters west, distant thirty-eight miles. From Point Es- teros they bear northwest by west half-west, distant eight- een miles.


From Point Arguello* in Santa Barbara County, they bear northwest half north, distant seventy-two nautical miles.


The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Sur- vey at San Simeon is on the rise just off the beach, and bearing north 5° west from the southwest point of the bay. Its geographical position is: Latitude 35° 38' 24.4 north; longitude 121° 10' 22" west from Greenwich; or, in time, 8 hours, 4 minutes and 41.5 seconds.


Nearly half way between the west point of San Simeon Bay and the Piedras Blancas a small, contracted anchor- age is laid down on the Coast Survey chart. From Pie- dras Blancas the coast trends northwest half west for a distance of fifty-seven miles, in an almost perfectly straight line.


THE PEOPLE'S WHARF.


The construction of the People's Wharf in 1869, brought forth the following from Mr. Walter Murray, in the Tribune, of September 6th of that year :---


We stole a march on the politicians on Thursday last, and, to relieve our chagrin at the unfavorable result of the election, attended the inauguration of the People's Wharf, held on the premises at the Wharf Company's landing. We found assembled there about 200 persons, of all ages, and of both sexes; and we found a great abundance of good things, provided at the Wharf Company's ex- pense. Mr. Landeker, the actuary of the company pre- sided, assisted by a large staff of persons, male and fe- male. After inspecting the warehouses and wharf, and indulging in the customary libations, to which end ample opportunity was offered, the company assisted in demol- ishing the multitude of good things provided, and finished up the performances by an unlimited amount of dancing, to the accompaniment of a band of music, provided for the occasion. Everything went off pleasantly, and the greatest good humor prevailed.




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