USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 8
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As soon as the travelers had set out on their journey, the mission father had the foresight to cause the two Indians to cut wood with which to construct a small
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chapel, which might also serve as shelter for the padre. At the same time the soldiers made their own quarters and constructed a stockade for their defense. Although there had not been before at this place any rancheria (village) of the wild Indians, nevertheless in a short time one was formed. When they had held communication for about three months with the soldiers, who had slaughtered the bears, they gratefully thanked them for having rid their country of such fierce animals, which had killed so many Indians. Of those who were yet alive not a few bore the marks of the terrible claws. They therefore expressed themselves very well satisfied that we had made our home in their country. They frequently visited the mission, bringing the padre presents of venison and wild seeds, and getting in exchange beads and brown sugar. By means of this assistance from the wild Indians, the Christians were enabled to maintain themselves until the arrival of the schooner which brought their provis- ions.
In the year of the foundation there were twelve Chris- tians, with four families of California Indians and some unmarried neophytes. So that the mission increased in a material as well as in a spiritual sense. So many of the gentiles were converted that when the venerable Padre Junipero Serra died there had been baptized 616.
The mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso is situated upon a hill at the skirts of which flows a stream of water large enough to furnish water for drinking purposes and to irrigate the surrounding land. It produces an abun- dance of provisions, not only to maintain the Christians and the garrison, but also to purchase clothes to clothe the Indians. Such is the fertility of the soil that what- ever seeds are sown yield abundant harvests.
It is situated in north latitude 35° 38', three leagues distant from the sea, where there is a bay called Buchon, to the west. A good road. At the playa (beach) the neophyte Indians have their canoes. They catch fish of various classes, some of which are very savory.
This mission is distant from Monterey fifty-seven leagues to the southeast, and twenty-five leagues from San Antonio. The intermediate country is inhabited by wild Indians, whose reduction (conversion) would not be easily accomplished unless other missions were estab- lished between them. For these natives do not go away from their own particular part of the country, and such is the variety of their idioms that at every step a new one is encountered. At present there are no two missions which speak the same language.
San Luis Obispo has a very healthy climate, being cold in winter and warm in summer, athough neither to excess. The place is to a certain degree incommoded by winds on account of its altitude.
The mission has been on three separate occasions set fire to. The first time an Indian set fire to it with a match, which he shot with his bow into the roof. That being of thatch took fire easily and burned the greater part of the building down, causing considerable loss. The second time was on Christmas, when the padre was saying the mass of the cock-crow. It took fire no one knew how, but was soon put out by the people who were assisting at the mass. The last was a fiercer fire, causing more destruction of property. It was never discovered whether it was caused by accident or malice. To pre- vent similar dangers and 'calamities the idea occurred to the padre to cover the roof with tiles, and as there was no one who knew how to make them, he made them himself. After this they were free from fire. In imita- tion of this mission all the other missions adopted the tile roof.
CEREMONIES OF THE FOUNDERS.
In an article prepared by Hon. C. H. Johnson for the San Luis Obispo Tribune, that gentleman writes :-
OPTIMung hy
GEN. P. W. MURPHY.
THE history of the pioneers of California presents a remarkable array of men of extraordinary enterprise and courage ; of stalwart manhood and high-souled honor, attended by brilliant successes in business and states- manship, or untiring energy in the ordinary walks of life. The family of Murphy was the first of the pioneers, and are among the first in wealth and in social and political influence. Their history runs far back into Ireland, thence to Canada, and to the United States in Missouri, and at last to California when it was a Mexican depend- ency, and to the present. The founder of the family in California was Martin Murphy, Sr.,. who early in the present century went with his family from Ireland to Quebec, Lower Canada, as the agent of a body of col- onists of that region. In 1840 he removed to Holt County, Missouri, and there founded a colony at a place called "Irish Grove." The locality was not a healthy one, and the settlers were afflicted with malaria. In their illness they were visited by the Priest of the Jesuit Mission at Council Bluffs, Rev. Father Hoskins, who told them in glowing terms of the beauties of the land by the sunset sea, where malaria did not exist, and disease was scarcely known. Father Hoskins had lived eight years in California, and was so enthusiastic in its praise that he instilled the desire in the stricken colonists to seek a home in that fair and distant land. On the 24th of May, 1844, the settlers of Irish Grove started on their pilgrimage across the trackless wilderness to the land of their hopes and their future. Their journey was long and toilsome, but fortune favored them, and late in the fall of that year they arrived at the Eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, near the shore of a beautiful lake, which now bears the name of the unfortunate Donner, and there the company halted for the winter. Cabins were built and preparations made for the long period of isola- tion and danger. A portion of the company, however,
concluded to push forward, and did so, entering Califor- nia by way of the Bear River and to Sutter's Fort. This party gave the name to Truckee River in honor of a faithful Indian guide who accompanied them. In the chapter devoted to Early Immigrants this party is more fully noticed.
Patrick Washington Murphy was one of that noted band of pioneers, although then but a mere child. He was born while his parents resided in Missouri, Septem- ber 11, 1840. His grandfather, Martin Murphy, Sr., was the commander and master spirit of the first party of emigrants ever to cross the Sierra Nevada with wagons and oxen to California. His father is Martin Mur- phy, Jr., who was born in County Wexford, Ireland, November 9, 1807. His mother's maiden name was Mary Bulger, a native of the same county. They were married in the cathedral at Quebec, July 18, 1831, and fifty years later celebrated their golden wedding with great eclat, and in the presence of a large assemblage at their homestead at Mountain View, in Santa Clara County.
In the pleasant Santa Clara P. W. Murphy grew to manhood, there attending school and graduating at Santa Clara College, receiving the degree of B. S. After leaving college he removed to San Luis Obispo County to take charge of the great landed property of his father, the ranchos of Santa Margarita, Atascadero, and Assuncion, comprising about 70,000 acres. At a later date he became the owner of these ranchos, and also of the Cojo Rancho, of 9,000 acres, near Lompoc in Santa Barbara County. These are grand estates, and in monarchial countries would ennoble the holder with lordly titles and high distinction. The owner has many times borne the title of Honorable, as the political history in this volume shows him to have been three times elected to the office of State Senator, and once to the Assembly of California.
GEN. P. W. MURPHY.
These positions he filled with distinction, and his frequent re-elections indicate the satisfaction he gave his constit- uency. He bears the title of General, having been appointed by Governor Irwin Brigadier-General of the Second Brigade of the National Guard of California.
The Santa Margarita is the home rancho of General Murphy. This is often mentioned in these pages, and is one of the loveliest and most valuable in San Luis Obispo. General Murphy's land is chiefly devoted to grazing, and his cattle are numbered by thousands. In the business of cattle-raising he has been eminently successful, and his property is valued at $1,200,000. The family have been equally successful, and their fortune aggregates $4,000,000, the result of energy, business ability, and the opportunity of life in California. As a business man in San Luis Obispo he has always borne a prominent part, being first in all the great enterprises. He was one of the originators of the San Luis Obispo Water Company, and a large stock-holder, also an incorporator of the Bank of San Luis Obispo, and one of the Directors. In other enterprises he has been active, and in his char- ities munificent, giving thousands of dollars where the wants of the poor and suffering require it.
General Murphy was first elected to the Senate as an Independent, but in politics he is a Democrat and exer- cises a powerful influence in his party. His brothers are politicians as well as capitalists. Burnard D. Murphy has often been Mayor of San Jose, and State Senator, and his youngest brother, James T. Murphy, was the first Bank Commissioner appointed to that office. His sister, the late Mrs. Taffe, of San Francisco, was the first American child born in California. Two other sisters are Mrs. Mary Carroll, wife of Richard T. Carroll, mer- chant of San Francisco, and Mrs. Helen Argués, of San Jose. His relatives in California are numerous and of the most wealthy and prominent people.
He was married, February 23, 1870, to Miss Mary Kate O'Brien, daughter of Dr. P. M. O'Brien, a well- known gentleman of San Francisco, one of the founders of the Hibernia Bank, and the author of its constitution and by-laws. Mrs. Murphy was a native of Philadel- phia, a lady of elegant accomplishments, and highly esteemed. She died in Santa Clara some years since, deeply mourned by all who knew her, as an irreparable loss to her husband and to society.
33
THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.
On the 19th of August, 1772, Father Serra arrived here from Monterey, and, after making a thorough examination of the surrounding country, selected the site now occupied by this city as the most eligible for the proposed new mission.
On the 1st of September, 1772, Father Serra, assisted by Father José Caballar, blessed and put in place the holy cross. They then suspended a bell to the branch of a sycamore on the edge of San Luis Creek, and, after ringing it some time to attract the attention of the In- dians, one of the priests, advancing, cried out: "Ea! gentiles! venid! venid! a la Santa Iglesia! venid! venid a recibir la fe de Jesu Cristo!" "O! gentiles! come ye! come ye! to the holy church! Come, come and receive the faith of Jesus Christ." The Indians, understanding not a word that was said, expressed by their looks and gestures, however, the utmost astonishment. Mass was then sung amid a vast concourse of Indians. Then was founded the mission, or we might say the city of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, which is its proper name, but, on account of its great length, the last two words have been dropped by custom.
The erection of buildings was commenced in the year following the formal occupancy of the place.
ATTACKED BY INDIANS.
In 1775 the mission was attacked by a large band of Indians that arrived on the coast from the Tulare country, known at present as the San Joaquin. The attack was made in the night. The Indians were repulsed, but not before they had fired the buildings by shooting arrows with lighted torches into the thatched roofs. To avoid a similar calamity in the future, the new buildings and those repaired were covered with tiles.
The mission soon became one of the most flourish- ing in California; extensive buildings were erected; schools established, and the Indians instructed in the mechanical arts. Orchards and vineyards were planted; the arable land cultivated, and the surrounding country stocked with cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. The new building was a quadrilateral, the church occupying one of the wings. A dial was placed in front of the church, fixed on a brick pillar. The façade was ornamented by a corridor, with a fine row of columns supporting the roof. The interior was formed by a court, having a gal- lery, upon which opened the dormitories of the monks; of the major-domos ; and of travelers; and also the work- shops, school-rooms, and store-rooms. The hospital was situated in the most retired part of the mission. The young Indian girls were kept in the hall called the nun- nery. They were placed under the care of Indian matrons who were deemed worthy of confidence, and taught to make cloths of wool and flax, and were not allowed to leave the nunnery until they were old enough to be married. Among the pupils of the school, a cer- tain number were instructed in music, vocal as well as instrumental. Others were taught to work at carpentery, blacksmithing, etc. Those who distinguished themselves in these branches of skilled labor were appointed over- seers.
THE ADMINISTRATIVE POWER
Consisted of two monks, of whom the elder had charge of the interior and of the religious instruction, and the younger the agricultural works. The small garrison, consisting of a Corporal and five soldiers, served the double purpose of keeping the refractory neophytes in subjection, and of adding to the numerical strength of the mission, by making occasional incursions with the Christianos viejos-old Christian Indians-into the
Tulare country, to force the gentiles or heathen Indians into the fold.
The Indians were divided into squads of laborers. At sunrise the bell sounded the angelus, and every one set out for church ; after mass, they breakfasted, and then went to work. At eleven they dined, and this period of repose extended to two o'clock, when they returned to labor, until the evening Angelus-one hour before sunset. After prayers and the Rosary, the Indians had supper, and then amused themselves with dancing and other sports. Their diet consisted of fresh or dried beef; and also mutton, as much as they chose, together with tortillas-thin cakes of flour or cornmeal-beans, peas and vegetables; fruit was occasionally distributed to them. For dress they wore a linen or cotton shirt, pantaloons, and woolen blanket. But the overseers had habits of cloth. The women received every year two chemises, a gown, and a blanket. When the hides, tal- low, grain, and wine were sold to ships from abroad, the monks distributed handkerchiefs, wearing apparel, tobacco, and trinkets among the Indians; and devoted the surplus to the embellishment of the church, the pur- chase of musical instruments, pictures, sacerdotal orna- ments, etc. Still, they were careful to keep a part of ' their harvests in granaries, to provide for years of scar- city.
FREE ENTERTAINMENT.
All travelers were hospitably entertained at the mis- sion free of charge. Upon leaving, they were tendered fresh horses ; also a flask of wine and a prepared luncheon -para el camino-for the road.
The mass of the Indians were lodged in rows of small houses of one story, situated near the north, east, and west sides of the main building. They were built of adobe-a large sun-dried brick-as were likewise the main mission buildings, except the north and west walls, which were of stone. The roofs were covered with tiles, and the walls whitewashed. The church tower contained a fine chime of bells, imported from Spain.
The mission, as a whole, presented a fine picture when viewed from a distance from a commanding posi- tion. The red-tiled roofs of the buildings with their white walls; the silvery-green foliage of the olive mingling with the deeper shades of that of the fig and other trees ; the water ditches winding through vineyards and gardens; the mountain stream with its banks bordered with giant sycamores and drooping willows, curving gracefully in its course through the heart of the mission, the water appearing at intervals through the green foliage, reflecting the rays of the sun with sparkling brilliancy, contrasting most picturesquely with each other, and with the bold features of the mountain scenery, and the perfect azure of the sky.
GREAT WEALTH OF THE MISSION.
The mission rose to great wealth anterior to the secu- larization, being regarded as one of the wealthiest, prob- ably occupying the first rank of all the missions of Cali- fornia. But it has undergone many changes since it passed its zenith. Tradition says that a former Bishop
5
34
HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
fled to Spain, taking with him $100,000 in. treasure, ordered to do so by the church authorities in the mother country .* By some it is said that a great part of this treasure was obtained by mining, and that not many years ago a priest came from Spain having tracings of a map he had found among the archives of the California missions, showing San Luis Obispo and a road to the mine and to some smelting furnaces in the valley of the Arroyo Grande. With the dethronement of Spanish power in California, the mines were closed and all traces of them obliterated as far as possible on the surface, and none were found by the priest who had come so far in search, there being no certainty that any ever existed. However, the existence of ruined furnaces (los hornos) was well known to the early settlers, Branch, Price, and others, but whether used for smelting silver ore or burn- ing lime were questions of doubt. The missions were deprived of some of their powers by the Mexican Gov- ernment shortly after the acquisition of the independence of the latter, but this so threatened their destruction that the acts were rescinded. This was in 1825 and 1826.
ANGERED PRIESTS.
In 1833 the decrees of secularization were made. Then commenced the most reprehensible acts of destruc- tion by the angered priests. For over half a century they had held absolute power in the country; established and maintained by the aid of their home government until they became self-supporting, then controlling all the re- sources of the country, with the simple natives as obedi- ent laborers without other pay than their necessary suste- nance; with numerous and almost numberless flocks and herds; lords of the manor and exempt from taxation, occupying one of the pleasantest and most prolific coun- tries of the earth, they easily became rich, their success cultivating the spirit of cupidity until, with the greater number, the desire for wealth and power became the pas- sion exceeding their duties to the people they had come to convert. The power they had established was more apparent than the civilization they presumed to teach. The civilization was of the rudest kind known to the patriarchal times; faint glimmerings of the social state of Europe of a thousand years preceding. The Indians of the coast had been subdued, and the region of the missions opened for settlement, but the Indian had not been changed in his nature nor so instructed as to be able to further progress or even maintain his position when left alone. The priests and their converts occupied the positions of absolute masters and abject slaves or de- pendents, the property created to all intents and pur- poses belonging to the former, although presumed to be for the benefit of the latter. At an early day after the establishing of the mission of San Luis Obispo, vines of grapes, and orchards of olive, pear, fig, and other trees were planted, all growing vigorously. These had been growing near fifty years when the decrees of seculariza- tion were issued, and, we are told, were grand and pro-
lific trees, but, with a few exceptions, they were destroyed by order of the priests. Of the exceptions were two fig trees standing west of the mission buildings, which con- tinued to flourish until about 1880. These had attained a growth of thirteen feet in circumference of trunk two feet above the ground, and the spread of the limbs was eighty feet in diameter.
THE SECULARIZATION
Has usually been alluded to as an act of despotic tyr- anny, depriving a people of property they had created or succeeded to according to law; but really it was only recovering the public domain for the public use from those who had been placed upon it for a great and good purpose and for a period. But the reasonable period had long expired; the Indians were still degraded and helpless, and the church power excluded all other. To introduce a self-sustaining, progressive people it was necessary to deprive the church of its power, and therefore the decree of secularization was an act of wise statesmanship. While the act was a wise one, it was not carried out in such a manner as to result in the many benefits intended. There appears to have been a general scramble for the property previously possessed by the missions. These establishments, from the affluence and power they once enjoyed, were reduced to extreme poverty. In 1838, the Rev. Father Sarria actually starved to death at the mis- sion of La Soledad, after having labored there for thirty years .*
The priests were not all so conscientious nor devoted in their duties and their mission as Father Sarria. They generally joined in the slaughter of the stock for the hides and tallow obtained, and shared in the spoil where they did not destroy. The great buildings, which had been erected by the early fathers and the labor of the neo- phytes, commenced their rapid decay. From 1833 to 1846, they remained under Mexican control, having been sold in 1842 by order of Governor Micheltorena, but subsequently restored. At the latter date, the missions had sunk to their most degraded condition.
THE MISSION REPAIRED.
In 1847, the mission of San Luis Obispo was exten- sively repaired, as under the change of Government there appeared a prospect of its becoming valuable property, either for Mr. Wilson who claimed its ownership as a purchaser, or the parish priest, Father Gomez, who main- tained possession of the chapel. Then also commenced a series of improvments in the old mission gardens, re- sulting in saving the land for the benefit of the Catholic Church.
THE BUILDINGS PUT TO MANY USES.
Since the occupancy of the country by Americans the old buildings have been used for many purposes; as barracks for soldiers, Court House, jail, school house, restaurant, saloon, and residence. Some of the occupants were mere interlopers, taking possession as if it were pub- lic property, but generally the title has been conceded as in the Catholic Church, to which it was confirmed in the
*Colton in his " Three Years in California," published in 1849, says: " In 1821 the mission of San Luis Obispo had 78,600 cattle, 2,000 tame horses. 3,700 mules, and 27,000 sheep. One of the fathers of this mission took $100,000 with him when he left for Spain in 1828."
*Gleeson's " History of the Catholic Church in California."
35
THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.
name of Bishop J. S. Alemany by the United States Board of Commissioners, giving to that organization the buildings and 52.72 acres of land. This land had been inclosed in walls prior to the change of flags in 1846. In 1874 that portion south of San Luis Creek in the town of San Luis Obispo was laid out in town lots and sold, and the city rapidly extended over it.
About the year 1880, the building underwent a thorough system of renovation, removing the arcade that had extended along the front, and putting in a frame structure and a belfry where the adobe portion threatened to fall into ruin, and as such it now stands. The modern innovations, called improvements, have much detracted from its romantic, mediæval appearance, but it is still a quaint structure, and will remain as long as it can be pre- served, a quaint and very interesting object.
Since the eventful change of Government in 1846, the mission has been under the charge of Reverend Fathers Gomez, Sastre, Mora, Galera, and Roussell, the latter be- ing the incumbent in 1883.
AT THE END OF THE FIRST CENTURY.
A writer visiting San Luis Obispo in September, 1871, writes of the mission in the following enthusiastic man- ner:
Even Father Sastre, the Spanish priest in charge of the old mission, seems to have taken the contagion from these restless Americans who are building up San Luis Obispo, and displays an amount of energy seldom met with in one of his calling and country. Showing us through the mission church and the grounds attached, we saw every- where the fruits and effects of the good father's industry. The mission which had lain idle and neglected for forty years when the padre was sent to take charge of it, is looking fresh and cheerful, as far as the padre's hand can reach. The walls of the church are all the way from three to nine (?) feet in thickness, and constructed of adobe and rock mixed. Though unused and exposed for such a length of time, nothing was ever taken from the church; everything down to the little old-fashioned silver censer and incense jar, is still there just as it was nearly a hundred years ago. The ceiling and walls of the church have been newly painted sky-blue and pink-at good Father Sastre's suggestion. In the vestry-room were the very basin and urn in which the padres, so many years before, washed the sacred cloths pertaining to the communion service; and richer and grander than any- thing I had ever seen were the vestments and robes which had lain in this same old chest of drawers for over seventy-five years. Silk, brocaded with gold and silver flowers, and satin with raised arabesques running through it; surely there is nothing manufactured in our day like these vestments sent from wealthy, wicked old Spain to flaunt in the faces of the gaping, worshiping Indians.
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