USA > California > San Luis Obispo County > History of San Luis Obispo County, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 93
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On passing the Santa Margarita divide, we found, as we expected, a new climate. The bland breezes and cool atmosphere of the coast region gave place to a tempera- ture little less than - degrees. We were prepared as much as possible against the heat. Leaving to our left- hand the Santa Margarita mansion, we passed through a long stretch of the most level and fertile land in the county, belonging to the rancho and mansion aforesaid, to the Rincoñada, a name given to this end of the estate. It is well named, for this end of the ranch is a species of pocket, almost entirely surrounded by hills, and full of corners, of which they form the impassable boundaries. About six miles from the house we entered upon a hilly
SAN FRANCIS PUBLIC LIBRA
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RANCH AND RESIDENCE OF S. F. BREED, NEAR SAN LUIS OBISPO, CAL.
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country, through which a road has been carved during the year 1869, admitting of easy wagon travel. Before, the road lay along the bed and bank of the Salinas River, which heads in the valley we were about to visit. At length we looked down from an eminence upon the place we were in search of, and found it to be a long and extensive valley, probably two leagues in extent, inter- spersed with low hills, running streams, and here and there fine tracts of green, moist land. A two or three miles' ride from the foot of the hill brought us to the house and claim of Mariano Lazcano, with the pre-emp- tion claims of his brother Bernardo, José Maria Topete, Agapito Ponce, and Pablo Mojica, immediately adjoin- ing. These gentlemen enjoy a stretch of country hardly to be surpassed in the county, and then only by such favored spots as the level portion of the Corral de Pie- dra, Santa Rosa, and Santa Margarita Ranchos.
The Salinas River, here a beautiful, living stream, comparatively disembarrassed from the long stretches of sand which characterize its course lower down, runs through all these possessions, and numbers of the finest springs add moisture and freshness to the scene. We were not in a mood, however, to enjoy the beauties of nature; it was past noon, and the sun was out in full force, admonishing the frequenters of a colder section to take shelter from its rays. We reached the Lazcano house.
The first place we visited was the homestead of the widow Manchego. This lady's husband, Bonifacio Man- chego, was the brave fellow who lost his life in 1868 in arresting horse-thieves at the Arroyo Grande. It was through his exertions that the road was built over which we came to the valley. He and Mr. Lester and Julian Garcia were the means of establishing in the neighbor- hood a school house, where, in 1869, for the first time the State and county funds were directed toward the in- struction of the rising generation of the valley.
Here is a very pretty little laguna, about a mile in cir- cumference, full of water and environed by green, level land. It is a very excellent and fertile spot, and reflects great credit upon the taste of the man who selected it. From thence we proceeded to the claim of Julian Garcia, who enjoys a living stream of water the year round, and has 160 acres of the finest land, mostly level. We left behind us in San Luis the hay and grain all harvested, though but little of the latter to be seen; here we passed the hay-makers at work, and the finest and greenest of barley and corn crops still standing.
From there we went to the claim of Juan de Jesus Valdez, commonly termed El Beato, where, although there was no running water, we found it lying in spots on the surface and all over the level land, only from two to six feet deep. Here we found beans, corn, lentiles, and other vegetable productions growing in the utmost vigor, without irrigation, and with not a leaf wilted. We turned over the soil and found it to be thoroughly moist, but three inches from the surface. We wondered that this and other favored spots had been left so long without any attempt having been made for so many years to reduce them to possession. Early last year some of these claims were going a-begging for an occupant. Now all the . choice places are covered by pre-emption, school land or homestead locations.
The nights are comfortable for sleeping, the tempera- ture being just warm enough, with no insects to disturb. The Salinas River is here, a silvery stream, stretching away for miles in the distance, and enjoying a scenery not to be excelled in any portion of our beautiful county. The San José Valley lay stretched out before our gaze, sur- rounded by an amphitheater of hills making it, for its size, the best natural fenced tract of land in the county. Here a pass was shown us, leading to the Huasna and Santa
Manuela Ranchos; there another to San Juan Capistrano and the Panza, another where the river cleaves its way to Santa Margarita. These, with the road by which we had entered, are the only means of inlet and outlet to and from the valley, and we were assured that at a trifling cost, by fencing up these passes, the whole might be turned into a magnificent potrero, or inclosed pasture, where thousands of cattle might be turned out with no fear of straying, or thousands of acres of land might be tilled without fear of trespass. We could not repress the wish that in our pioneer days we had chanced to visit this valley, at a time when sitios de ganada-mayor, might have been had for the asking.
The heat is oppressive; it is very well borne, however, by those who live on that side of the Santa Margarita Pass. Mr. Edward Lester and Mr. Nicholas Rhein have a claim, both of which are the best kind. Mr. Lester, in particular, has a large tract of level land, with water within a few feet of the surface. His crop was green and beautiful.
Leaving his place, we traveled down the Salinas River for six or eight miles, finding it a rough country, with plenty of sand and rock, but, at the same time, an abun- dance of grass scattered here and there, with but one house in all the distance. The magnificent view pre- sented by nature in every direction fills the mind with delight and chains the eye with its beauties. We advise everybody who wants to see good scenery, fertile land, plenty of grass, and to experience weather and air which ought to prolong the lives of lung patients indefinitely, to visit San José Valley. It is one of the prettiest places we ever saw.
OWNERS AND FARMS IN 1877.
The cultivated land equals in area a whole township, within which are thirty-three farms, settled on and occu- pied. Excluding a few bachelors, the valley is inhabited by men of families. No farm contains less than 160 acres, and runs as high as 640 acres. Blochman & Co., of San Luis Obispo, own 640 acres; Sinsheimer & Briz- zolara, 320 acres; Dr. R. A. Cochrane owns a fine place embracing 640 acres; Lazcano, perhaps, the same; Tom Carroll, 320 acres; Lowrie Brothers, 320 acres; the Man- chego heirs, 320 acres, etc.
The valley land generally is rich and fertile, and beau- tifully dotted with evergreen oaks, whose wide-spread branches in sultry hours afford a grateful shade. The Salinas rises in the avenal (oat) hills, some twelve miles north of the center of the valley.
A writer, in April, 1880, reports the condition of the valley as follows :-
This little valley has decked herself out in a robe of emerald green, dotted here and there with thousands of parti-colored flowers, and the varied landscape, backed by dark and rugged mountains, vies in beauty with any other vale in the whole of lovely San Luis.
The cold weather has retarded somewhat the growth of the grain, but it has given it time to root itself deeply in the ground, and a few warm days will guarantee an abundant crop. There are about 1,600 acres in wheat in and near the valley, which will certainly average at least twenty bushels per acre.
The quiet of the valley is once in a while broken by a visitor from San Luis, but we soon recover from the shock, and go peacefully on again. Some of the ranch- ers have contracted their wool for twenty-eight cents per pound, which seems a good price.
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
The school is prospering finely; the roll shows a larger attendance than for three years past. This is due to the energy and zeal of the teacher.
NAMING THE POST-OFFICE.
The next year gave even better promise of good crops, and the newspaper reports an increased area of 600 acres put in wheat. Mr. Smith and the Ballagh Brothers, new comers, imitated the older settlers, and entered largely into wheat culture. G. W. Lingo, Esq., a well- known citizen, had the honor of proposing the name of the post-office in the valley. Pozo, in Spanish means a well or hole, whence the likeness of the valley itself to a space of this sort, and the Spanish word Poso was adopted as the name of the post-office.
This office receives its mails weekly, the route being by way of the valley of the Arroyo Grande, passing the post-office of Musick, and extending beyond to La Panza. A wagon road leads to San Luis Obispo, passing the San José and Rincoñada Quicksilver Mines to Santa Mar- garita, where it joins the main road through the county. By this route the distance from the post-office, which is in the upper part of the valley, is about thirty miles, and the road is rather difficult of passage with heavily laden wagons. A new road has been surveyed, but not con- structed, running on the east side of the Salinas River to near Santa Margarita, and then joining the old one, which, when made, will greatly facilitate travel.
DON YNOCENTE GARCIA.
The first claimant to the valley was Don Ynocente Garcia, as related in the sketch by Mr. Murray. This gentleman died in San Luis Obispo in 1878, upon which occasion the Tribune published the following obituary notice and sketch of his life :-
On November 26, 1878, Don Ynocente Garcia died, aged ninety-one years. He was a highly respected citi- zen of San Luis Obispo. His face and presence were familiar to the people for many years-even farther back into the past than the memory of the oldest inhabitant reaches. He has rendered valuable services to the country since its earliest settlement, having been born in Los Angeles in the year 1786. When a young man, he was a soldier to the King of Spain, and engaged in the subjugation of the wild Indians, and the protection of the missionaries. After the independence of Mexico, he became Administrator of the mission of San Miguel, in this county, which position he held with honor until the office was abolished by the secularization of the missions. All his transactions in public and private life were marked by the strictest honesty. The deceased was married twice. His first wife was Doña Carmen San- chez, by whom he had sixteen children. His second marriage was with Doña Bruna Cole, by whom he had three children. Besides the above-mentioned children, he leaves behind him seventy-six grandchildren, one hundred and twenty-eight great-grandchildren, and thirty- six great-great-grandchildren. He was possessed of an iron constitution, was strong and robust, and retained all his mental faculties up to the time of his death. The deceased was a good father and friend, and a devout Christian, and the oldest inhabitant of San Luis Obispo.
SANTA MARGARITA.
The history and description of the famous Santa
Margarita Rancho presents some very interesting feat- ures. This grant, now the property of Gen P. W. Murphy, was made to Joaquin Estrada, and was con- firmed and finally patented to him. It contains 17,734 acres, the greater part of which is very valuable land. It consists of a valley, that of the Salinas River, some two miles in width and extending along the river perhaps eight or nine miles. The tract has always been cele- brated for its fertility ever since the Franciscan mission- aries began to till its soil and establish warehouses to contain the extraordinary crops of frijoles, garbanzos, maiz, and other esculents.
Later on, when the Mexican lords of the manor reigned at Santa Margarita, the place was given up to the support of great herds of horned cattle, and agriculture was neglected. In time the long-horned Mexican cattle have been replaced by better breeds, but still the greater part of this unequalled valley is devoted to beef raising. Frequent mention has been made of the Santa Margarita in these pages, and much has been written in its praise by travelers, extracts from a few of which follow.
Writing in 1879, "T" remarks of the place and its approaches:
Shortly after passing Boronda's, at the foot of the mountain, beyond the Cuesta, and just before reaching the fine-looking dwelling of the Bean Brothers, our guide left the main road, and turning suddenly to the right led us over the hill and down a narrow cañon a mile or so, when we found ourselves riding out upon the level valley of the Santa Margarita. Up the valley and nearly three miles away the white adobe ranch-house is seen, a shining speck in the distance. In the other direction the eye swept the broad valley for miles unobstructed, save by the white oaks standing over the ground, thinly distributed, as if planted by a hand that had more land to sow than seed to scatter. The first thing that struck me as strange was the small number of cattle in sight. When I passed through this valley four years ago, large herds were graz- ing in every direction. Great sleek-looking animals they were, half wild, half tame. As we passed by one of these herds a loud bellowing would be set up, and some of the bravest steers would advance threateningly toward us, courageous as soldiers as long as it was a fair fight, no striking back; but let one make a demonstration, and, in a twinkling of an eye, instead of shaking horns and furious tongues, a forest of tails would be presented and away would roll the herd. To-day only a few cattle, and they were as tame as dairy stock and fat enough for beef, every one of them. Santa Margarita has long been famed as the queen of cattle ranches, and embraces enough land for a good-sized county. Before it came into the possession of the present owner, this princely domain yearly sent its thousands of fat beeves to the San Francisco market. Its rodeos were festivals that were celebrated by stock-owners, vaqueros, and people of leisure from all parts of the county, during the continuation of which a great camp was formed, with every day a picnic and every night a round of revelry. . A more pleasant place to live in can hardly be imagined. The valley is surrounded by mountains that shelter it from the moist coast winds and the dry northers-the former of which rust and blight the crops, the latter drying up every- thing in its path. Thus protected from prejudicial influences, it possesses every advantage for the raising of grain and vegetables of all kinds, and temperate climate, fruits of the best quality and flavor. Our best peaches,
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apples, apricots, and nectarines come from this side of the Santa Lucia Range.
SEEN BY J. ROSS BROWNE.
In 1849, J. Ross Browne made a visit to San Luis Obispo, and in the account of his journey wrote his impressions of Santa Margarita, and the incident that befell him in the valley.
Next day I entered the valley of Santa Margarita. I shall never forget my impressions of this valley. Encir- cled by ranges of blue mountains, were broad, rich pastures, covered with herds of cattle; beautifully diversi- fied with groves, streams, and shrubbery; castellated cliffs in the foreground as the trail would demand, a group of cattle grazing by the margin of a little lake, their forms mirrored in the water; a mirage in the distance, mount- ain upon mountain beyond, as far as the eye could reach, till their dim outlines were lost in the glow of the atmos- phere. Surely a more lovely spot never existed upon earth. I have wandered over many a bright and beautiful land, but never even in the glorious Orient, in Italy, Spain, Switzerland, or South America, have I seen a country so richly favored by nature as California, and never a more lovely valley than Santa Margarita, in the whole wide world. There is nothing comparable to the mingled wildness and repose of such a scene; the rich and glowing sky, the illimitable distance, the teeming luxuriance of vegetation, its utter isolation from the busy world, and the dreamy fascination that lurks in every feature.
BEAR CATCHING.
I had passed nearly across the valley, and was about to enter upon an undulating and beautifully timbered range of country extending into it from the foot-hills, when a dust arose in a slight elevation a little to the left, and about half a mile distant. My mule, ever on the alert for some new danger, pricked up his ears, and evinced symptoms of uncontrollable fear. The object rapidly approached, and, without further warning, my steed whirled around and fled at the top of his speed. Neither voice nor bridle had the slightest effect. In vain I struggled to arrest his progress. He never before ran so fast. Through bush and mire, over rocks, into deep arroyos and out again, he dashed in his frantic career, never pausing until by a mischance one of his feet entered a squirrel burrow, and he rolled headlong on the ground, throwing me far in advance. I jumped to my feet to catch him, but he was on his feet as quickly, and hurried away. Upon looking back to see what was the cause of his perturbation, I was astonished to perceive a large animal, I could not at first distinguish what, followed by several horsemen in full chase.
In order to avoid being in their direct route, I made a break for a trifling mound at a short distance, where I screened myself from observation, crouching close to the ground. Scarcely had I done so, when I heard loud shouts, and looking over the bank saw within some half a hundred paces a huge grizzly bear, which had halted from his retreat, and sitting upon his haunches was now fac- ing his former pursuers. The horsemen, who were evi- dently native Californians, managed their horses with wonderful grace and skill. The nearest swept down like an avalanche toward the bear, while the others coursed off a short distance, making a circle, so as to prevent his escape. Suddenly swerving a little to one side, the leader whirled his lazo once or twice around his head and let fly at his game with unerring aim. The loop caught one of the fore-paws, and the bear was instantly jerked down upon his haunches, struggling and roaring with all his might. It was a striking instance of the power of the rider over the horse, that wild with terror as the lat-
ter was, he dared not disobey the slightest pressure of the rein, but went through all the evolutions, blowing trumpet blasts from his nostrils, his eyes starting from their sockets. Despite the strain kept upon the lazo, the bear soon regained his feet and commenced hauling in the line with his fore-paws, so as to get within reach of the horse. He had advanced within ten feet before the other horsemen could bring a lazo to bear upon him. The first throw was at the hind legs-the first object be- ing to stretch him out-but it missed. Another more fortunate cast took him around the neck. Both riders pulled in opposite directions, and the bear soon rolled upon the ground again, biting furiously at the lazoes, and uttering the most terrific roars.
The strain upon the neck soon chocked off his breath, and he was forced to let loose his grasp upon the other lazo. While struggling to free his neck, the two other horsemen dashed up, yelling to attract his attention. The nearest, watching narrowly every motion of the frantic animal, soon let fly his lazo and made a lucky hitch around one of his hind legs. The other quickly placed a loop around the animal's body, and all four together set up a yell of triumph, and began pulling in opposite directions. The writhing, straining, and pitching of the powerful monster were now absolutely fearful. A dust rose over him, and the earth flew in every direction. Sometimes by a desperate effort he regained his feet and actually dragged one or more of the horses toward him by main strength; but whenever he attempted this the others drew tighter their lazoes and choked him or jerked him upon his haunches. It was apparent that his wind was giving out, partly by reason of the long chase, and partly from the noose around his throat. A general pull threw him once more upon his back.
Before he could regain his feet, the horsemen by a series of maneuvers wound him completely up, so that he lay perfectly quiet upon the ground, breathing heavily and utterly unable to extricate his paws from the laby- rinth of lasoes in which they were entangled. One of the riders now dismounted, and approaching the bear, with a spare riata cast a noose over his fore-paws and tied the remaining part around the neck, drawing it so tightly as to destroy by suffocation the bear's remaining strength. Another rider dismounting, the two bound the powerful armed paws so securely that it was impossible for the bear to break loose. They next bound his jaws tightly to- gether, winding the riata about his head, after which they loosed the fastenings of his neck to give him air. When all was secure they freed their lasoes and mounted their horses.
I thought it now time to make my presence known, so I stood up. Some of the party had evidently seen me during the progress of the chase, for they manifested no surprise at my presence; and the leader after· exchanging words with another man, and pointing in the direction taken by the mule, rode up and said very politely :-
Buenos dias, Senor! and proceeded to inform me that he had sent a man to catch my mule, and it would be back presently. While we were endeavoring to carry on some conversation relating to the capture of the bear, during which I made out that they were going to drag him to the ranch on a bull hide and have a grand bull fight in a few days, the vaquero returned with my mule, and I proceeded on my journey.
THE SANTA LUCIA RANGE.
A distant view of the Santa Lucia Mountains gives the impression of a strong, bold, and precipitous range, extend- ing southeasterly through the county. From the head of the Cuyama, and the head of the San Buenaventura, the Santa Lucia extends to the Pacific at Punto Gordo in
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HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY.
Monterey County, separating the waters flowing into the Cuyama from those of the Tulare basin, and the waters of the Salinas from the many smaller streams flowing westerly and southwesterly to the ocean.
The trend of the range is north 46 degrees west, the general altitude being from 2,500 to 3,000 feet, but in the south are peaks rising to the height of 7,000 feet. From the western base of its foot-hills to the sea, in this county, is from five to fifteen miles.
As seen from the west, it is an imposing, forbidding mountain; but there are a great many inlets, following the little streams, as the Arroyo Grande, Lopez Creek, Corral de Piedra, San Luis Chorro, Morro, Van Ness, Santa Rosa, Old Creek, and others, which open to most delightful and fertile valleys. The valleys on the north- east side of the range are much higher than that of San Luis Obispo, Santa Margarita being nearly 800 feet above the city of San Luis Obispo, 400 feet below the Cuesta, which is 1,350 feet above the sea.
THE EASTERN VALLEYS.
From the difference of altitude the mountain presents a less formidable aspect viewed from the eastern valleys, and upon closer inspection the range is found to be com- posed of many lateral spurs and detached buttes, around and among which are many broad valleys, verdant potre- ros, and deep and romantic cañons. On the northeast- ern slope rises the Salinas and its branches, the Santa Margarita, Atascadero, Paso Robles, Nacamiento, and other streams. The region is well covered with noble, broad-spreading white oaks, with a smaller variety inter- mixed with nut pine on the ridges, laurel, balm of Gilead, cottonwood, and sycamore in the cañons, and live oak and chemissal on the mountain-sides.
EAGLE RANCHO.
On the headwaters of the Atascadero is the "Eagle Ranch," the property or Baron Von Schroder. Leaving the stage road near the residence of Gen. P. W. Murphy, the western part of the Santa Margarita Rancho is crossed, of broad fields and rolling hills for a distance of four miles, when in a little valley on one of the forks of the Atascadero the cluster of buildings making the head- quarters of the Baron's ranch is reached. This place was settled upon many years ago by some of the native Mexican population, who used it as a secluded pasturage without cultivation or improvement. In 1876 it was purchased by Mr. Albert F. Benton, who has lived in San Luis Obispo County since 1869. Mr. Benton's first home was on the Estrella, where he still owns a tract of land.
As said, he came upon the Eagle Ranch in 1876, made such improvements as were necessary for the com- fort of his family, now consisting of a wife and four pretty little girls, and commenced the cultivation of the farm. The many oaks and some bodies of marshy land were favorable to the production of swine, of which he raised a large number, but the grizzly bears were a great obstacle to his success.
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