USA > California > Sonoma County > History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams > Part 25
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It would appear that a saw-mill had been erected on Mill creek about this period, for we find Alexander procuring lumber and building a barn as well as making additions to his house. This lumber he obtained in
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exchange for hogs, the commodity at that time being worth seventy-five dollars per thousand feet, and a gelt, i. e. a pig that has never had a litter, being appraised at the same price, the barter therefore was easily effected. In the year 1851 commenced a series of squatting troubles in this section of the county. Some of the immigrants coming to the Russian River valley at this period cast longing eyes upon the fertile lands of Alexander valley, and taking it for granted that they knew all the intricacies of the land law as relating to California, occupied such portions as they had a mind to; among others who were thus honored by the presence of self-invited guests was Cyrus Alexander. With these, however, he never quarrelled, but would simply warn them off, advising them of the consequences should they remain. As a rule they went away quietly, Alexander always paying them a fair price for any improvements made. Afterwards, finding that his property was absolutely needed by those who would pay for it, he concluded to dispose of all his wild cattle and have the ranch surveyed. This he did, dividing it into two reserves, and offering the remainder for sale in lots to suit pur- chasers. The valley in this way became soon peopled by immigrants from Illinois, Iowa, Tenessee, Missouri, Indiana, and New York. This move did not relieve Mr. Alexander of the squatters, however, for we find that in 1856 they once more commenced to molest him, one actually encamping in a field of standing wheat, and was not got rid of until threatened by the sheriff. The night before he took his departure the barn was burned with all its contents, it containing at the time his crop of grain which had been just threshed, the threshing machine, fan mills, plows, grain cradles, rakes, and various other farm implements; a rick of grain near the barn being also consumed. Before closing the annals of Mendocino township let us here relate the following amusing annecdote, as the subject of it will be remembered by many an old resident. In 1851 Alexander was on the point of remodeling his residence, and in the course of his operations to that end he found that the wheat which had lain next to the wall in his bin had become heated, musty, and therefore spoiled, a portion of it being alive with black weavils. It was unfit for seed wheat or flour, so he was at his wits' end what to make of it. An unlooked for market soon presented itself. An old man named Miller, who had crossed the plains a year or so before, had brought with him some of the machinery of a distillery which he had erected. He had heard of the damaged wheat, but thinking that it might still be good enough to make whisky of, purchased the entire quantity, and succeeded in manufacturing if not a good, at any rate an appreciated article. Miller and his wife, Aunt Katie, as she was generally called, were both partial to a dram, but they could not always command a supply, for grain was not to be forever had, besides the price of grain was high, and whisky would occasionally be scarce, 'even in distillery.
On one occasion, as the men folks were leaving for some other part of the
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county, on the hard work of a Fourth of July celebration, they were much concerned as to how to dispose of a jug of the crathur which was in the house. From her known propensities, it was deemed impolitic to leave Aunt Katie at home in company with the jug, so one of the number, quick of resources and lithe of limb, climbed up a tree, and unobserved by Kate, tied it securely far out of reach of his thirsty friend. Not long after their departure, Auntie's natural and, on this occasion, national thirst required assauging. She, there- fore, cast about in search of the treasure, but it was nowhere to be found. She suspected that she had been made the victim of some diabolical treach- ery, and, therefore, prospected all the more keenly, till, at last, a glimpse of the lost jar was caught, as it cosily nestled among the leaves, but, oh ! so far beyond her reach. A quarter of an hour's cogitation solved the riddle of how to gain the prize. With methodic precision she carried out a large wash-tub, and having'taken"correct bearings, placed it immediately beneath the jug, and next, procuring her husband's rifle, she took deliberate aim, bang went the charge, the bullet pierced the target, the liquor trickled into the tub, Aunt Katie regaled herself, and was found, on the return of the party, in affectionate proximity to what remained of her favorite tipple, having had as much "independence" as was good for her.
We now come to a portion of our chronicles on which it is a pleasure to dwell, for nowhere has the beneficent influences of religion been felt to such advantage as among the pioneers of every newly-opened country.
In the year 1852 there were a number of settlements throughout the county which naturally commenced to attract the attention of the different religious bodies. The first preacher to visit this district was the Rev. A. L. S. Bateman of Ohio. His circuit included all the country from Petaluma to Big river, a distance of one hundred and fifty miles. In Alexander valley he found several Methodist families, and here he was encouraged to make one of his stopping places, Cyrus Alexander giving up the best room in his house wherein to hold services. In the following year Mr. Bateman returned to this field with instructions to build a church, if such were practicable. He selected Alexander valley as the most suitable position, and with most sub- stantial aid from the Alexander family and other residents, a small house of worship was constructed, a Sunday School being shortly after organized in the same building. This edifice was unfortunately destroyed by fire about ten years later, it is thought by an incendiary. In 1853, a day school had also been established in the same building, but finding that it was not cen- tral enough, Cyrus Alexander, at his own expense, built another on his own land, and offered it to his neighbors for their especial benefit. He assisted them also with money to employ teachers and to maintain the school, which is still standing, and known as " Pine Grove," it being used as a place of tuition on week days and a church on Sunday. The Rev. Mr. Bateman, from the size of his circuit, could not visit the valley oftener than once in
Et Farmer
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two weeks, therefore, arrangements were made with the Rev. James Woods to undertake the work, and as an inducement for him to settle among them with his family, and aid in sustaining the school, Alexander presented him with a rich farm.
HEALDSBURG .- "As the crow flies," Healdsburg is about sixty-five miles west of north of San Francisco, being thirty-five miles from Petaluma and fifteen from Santa Rosa by the railroad. It occupies a beautiful location on Russian river, near its confluence with Dry creek, and rests pleasantly on rising ground between the two valleys of Russian river and Dry creek, near to it being the eminence usually known as Fitch mountain, though there are those who name it by the more euphonious title of Sotoyome, the name given to the grant made to Captain Henry D. Fitch. It is a hill of much symme- try, the upper portion being well wooded, while at its base are rolling lands, offering the advantage of magnificent pasturage; around the foot of it mean- ders the Russian river, clinging to the fertile region as if loth to part with the luxuriant vegetation on its slopes.
The site of the city was originallly a portion of the grant named above. In the year 1852 Harmon Heald, who had crossed the plains in 1849, and settled in the county in 1850, not far from the position of the future city, located the land, the proper ownership of which was at that time in dispute. Heald arguing that should it turn out to be Government property he could pre-empt it, and if owned privately he would have a like opportunity offered for purchase. On this ground he erected a small clap-board cabin, placing it on the side of the main road to Mendocino and the counties to the north, then the only artery for wagon travel in this part of the country; he thus seized the opportunity, and procuring a small assortment of goods, opened a store in the Fall of the year, and that Winter disposed of them, principally to the Indians, of whom there were a great number, who usually paid for their purchases in cash, and the travellers on the route. This erection stood on the site of the present express office of Wells, Fargo & Co., the original building being until lately still standing, a little to the rear thereof. This was the first building in Healdsburg. In this Winter there came to live with Heald, Thomas W. Hudson and wife, who assisted him in his household and other cares, and in the following Spring, having disposed of his original stock in trade, he set to work to replenish his shelves, the goods being procured in San Francisco, and thence transported by steamer to Sonoma, and by wagon or pack, or both, to their destination. A blacksmith's shop was shortly after built by a man of the name of Morse, on the site of the store now kept by Sam Myers; he, however, was succeeded by William Dodge and William Dow, who had moved their smithery business from the Russian river banks, thus making the second building in the embryo city. The third house was constructed by August Knaack, on the ground now occupied by the eastern
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end of the Sotoyome House, where he established himself, making chairs and repairing wagons. This house adjoined the blacksmith shop already mention- ed; Knaack, it is said, performing all the woodwork in connection with that business. This was in the Winter of 1853-4, at which time there also came H. M. Willson, who, with A. B. Aull, entered into partnership with Harmon Heald, who built an addition to the store, the business of which was after- wards controlled by Willson alone for eighteen months. Early in the year 1853, Harmon Heald lost his youngest brother, who had crossed the plains, with his mother, sister, and another brother, in 1851, his being the first funeral in the little settlement. He was interred by the side of a cluster of madronas, in what is now the school lot, then apparently far away in the backwoods, now surrounded on every side by houses. His remains, along with those of many others, were afterwards removed to Oak-Mound Ceme- tery. In May of this year there also happened the first birth in the city, in the person of Henry H., son of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas W. Hudson, who soon after moved from the little settlement, for we find that in 1854 the town, which at that time knew no other name than that of Heald's Store, was composed of the buildings mentioned above, with their occupants, Harmon Heald and his wife, for he had married at Mark West creek in the previous year ; H. M. Willson, William Dow, William Dodge, and August Knaack. . About this period was established in Heald's store the first postal station, the nearest office prior to that time being at Sonoma, whence the mail service was conducted by private enterprise, at a charge of two, and, sometimes, four bits a letter.
Nothing of any importance transpired in the following year; in March 1856, however, McManus moved his store from its position in Russian River township, making the second store within what is now known as the corporate limits of the city of Healdsburg. There was still another store, but outside the limits, kept by a man named Engle.
In the Spring of the year 1857, the town site was surveyed by H. P. Mock, and the lots, with the exception of those donated for a district school, Cemetery, Methodist Episcopal Church, Baptist Church, Methodist Episcopal Church South, Presbyterian Church, and Plaza, sold by private contract, the price put upon each by Heald being fifteen dollars, but such was the increase in value, that in the following year the lot on which the White House now stands was disposed of by him for four hundred and fifty eight dollars. In this year (1857) Harmon Heald finding his space too limited for the business which was springing up around him, found it necessary to construct a new store, this he did on the corner now occupied by the Bank of Healdsburg, and, adding largely to his stock, opened an establishment of some pretensions. We now find the town, which at this period first received its name of Healds- burg-though there were those who would have called it Sotoyome-begin- ning to show signs of something like a permanent growth; dwelling houses
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were commenced by Doctor B. B. Bonham, the pioneer resident practitioner of the city, and John N. Bailhache, that of the former being located on what is now known as North Street, and the latter on the east side of the Plaza, near the Central Market. In this year was constructed the first church, now the place of worship of the Presbyterian. body, the Rev. James Woods being the first minister. At this time, just outside the town limits, were the Ohio House, kept by a man named Snyder, the building being still standing on the first turn of the Cloverdale road, and occupied by a gunsmith by the name of Livey; a saloon owned by A. J. Forrester, and the store already mentioned as kept by Engle; shortly after there was built on the other side of the slough, the house now occupied by William Fitch, where there was accommodation for a limited number of guests. The city still showed signs of increased prosperity, and numbers of people arrived to take advantage of the facilities afforded from climate and situation. In 1858, early in the year, Jacob Heald and John Raney erected a frame building on the site of the present Sotoyome House, which they dubbed with that pleasant sounding name, while later in the year Allen and Dickenson built another on the corner now occupied by the Geyser Livery Stable of N. W. Bostwick. In this year was also raised the first brick building in Healdsburg, which occupied the position of Bloom's store, and was the property of Rathburn and Brother. There are those who say that the first brick building, also erected by Rathburn, stood on the corner now occupied by the Bank of Healdsburg. The old settlers are divided on the question; others declare it to be the store of Mason & Smith. In 1859 a disastrous fire swept away the first mentioned buildings, as well as some intermediate erections, such as a saloon with dancing hall above, until its course was stayed by the brick house first mentioned. We also find that in this year the first school house was erected on the lot occupied by the building now used for a like purpose, while later Professor Scott erected his academy. Let us now cast a retrospective glance upon the fortunes of our new city. She had now made a great stride in life; she had been born, had received a name, and was now beginning to stand alone. In the year last noted the number of houses amounted to more than one hundred and twenty; a brick store had been erected, an academy capable of giving accommodation to over one hundred pupils had been constructed, while there had been established a fire organi- zation, a concert hall, and the fraternal societies usually found where Americans most do congregate, the population at this period being con- siderably in excess of five hundred.
To the year 1860, does the honor remain of having produced the first news- paper in the city of Healdsburg; this sheet which appeared in the month of January, was edited by A. J. Cox, a gentleman well known as a pioneer · journalist and still residing in the lovely city of Napa. The print was called the Review and was about one fourth the size of the Russian River Flag. It
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gave place in June, 1864, to the Advertiser, published by Fenno & Warren, A. J. Cox being still editor. In June 1865, the paper was changed to the Weekly Advertiser, and changing hands on August 5th, of that year it was published from that date by Cox & Boggs, under the name of the Democratic Review. On October 4, 1865, a new paper was started by William R. Morris & Co., called the Democratic Standard, an opposition paper in everything but polities. Soon thereafter the Review sold out to Mr. Farley, who moved it to Clear Lake county, where it became known as the Clear Lake Courier. On October 3, 1866, Mr. Morris became the sole proprietor of the Standard, and shortly afterwards transferred a half interest to J. B. Fitch, who, in Jan- uary 1867, purchased the interest of Mr. Morris, and in the following month disposed of the entire proprietory rights to Boggs & Menafee. In the course of a few weeks, Mr. Boggs seceded, and was succeeded by W. A. C. Smith, when the firm became Menafee & Co. In the winter of 1867-8, Messrs. Fitch & Davis assumed the reins of office, until in the fall of the latter year when, John G. Howell, purchasing the material and good will, its publication was suspended. Mr. Howell, thereupon commenced the publication of the Russian River Flag, and at once earned for his paper high rank among the Republi- can publications of the coast. In 1876, Mr. Howell sold the paper to Jordan Brothers, L. A Jordan succeeding as sole proprietor. In 1876, Mulgrew Bros. & Wood, started the Healdsburg Enterprise, a publication which has achieved much success. Besides being Democratic in politics, it has always made a specialty of promoting the interest of Healdsburgand the surrounding country, while its appearance is a pleasing picture of symmetrical form and elegant typography.
In the year 1867, the town was incorporated under the law of the State as it then existed, but during the twentieth session of the Legislature a special law was passed incorporating the city of Healdsburg, which was adopted by the votes of the city on April 18, 1874. In this Charter the corporate limits of the city are declared to be as follows: Beginning at the section corner to sections sixteen, seventeen, twenty and twenty-one, town- ship nine north, range nine west, Mount Diablo meridian; thence running south to the section line, seventy-five chains to the road running from Healdsburg to and down Dry creek, or to the line of H. M. Willson's land; thence east along the north line of Willson's land to the line of L. A. Norton's land; thence south along the line between said Norton's land and Willson's land to the south line of section twenty-one, to the quarter section corner; thence along the south side and parallel to the railroad track to the east side of Russian river; thence north to the north line of Matheson street in said town, extended; thence west to the cast line of University street; thence north to the north line of said section twenty-one; thence west along the north line of said section twenty-one, to the place of beginning. The west line, however, in the foregoing boundary, that is to say, the first course
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therein given, after running forty chains, run west to the corner of the plat of Healdsburg made by William Mock, County Surveyor, and duly recorded in the Recorder's office of the eounty of Sonoma; thence south twelve degrees, thirty minutes, east, with the west line of said plat or map until such line intersect said section line; thence south on said section line as above described. In accordance with said charter the corporate powers of the city of Healds- burg is vested in a Board of Trustees, five in number, of which one shall be President; a Police Judge, usually termed a Recorder, one Treasurer, a Street Commissioner, City Clerk, Marshall and one Assessor and Collector. The Trustees to hold office for the term of two years and until successors are elected and qualified. The Police Judge, Treasurer, Marshall, and Assessor and Collector are appointed for one year; the Street Commissioner, Attorney and City Clerk until their places are filled by other appointments made by the Board of Trustees and entered upon the minutes.
Such is the spirit of government vested in the city of Healdsburg. Let us now turn to the records.
The first meeting of the town of Healdsburg which we find recorded is that held on March 5, 1867, when the body met at the office of L. A. Norton, and organized by the election of L. A. Norton as President, and J. J. Max- well, Clerk. The days for holding stated meetings were fixed for the first and third Monday of each month, from April 1st to October 1st, at eight o'clock P. M., and for the balance of the year at seven o'clock. On motion of P. Greist, L. A. Norton and W. A. C. Smith were appointed a committee to draft by-laws for the corporation, while the bonds for the different officers were fixed, the resolution being also adopted, that the clerk was to receive a reasonable compensation for his services. Ordinances were ordered to be published in the Democratic Standard, and Messrs. Greist, Smith and Wag- enseller added to the committee for drafting ordinances. The Board of Trustees at this date would appear to have been: L. A. Norton, President; Peter Greist, W. A. C. Smith, W. N. Wagenseller, and H. Dudley ; J. J. Maxwell, Clerk; James Wilber, Poundmaster. Ordinances No3. One and Two were passed on the 9th March, and No. Three on the 18th; while on April Ist a committee consisting of Trustees Smith, Dudley, Griest and Wag- enseller was appointed to examine the streets of the town to ascertain what was necessary to be done in the way of changing or opening them out. On this date, Ordinance No. Four, providing for the licensing of public shows, was adopted. On motion of Trustee Smith, Messrs. Norton and Barrow were instructed to appeal the case, Hassett & Vaughan vs. James Wilber, the Board pledging the faith of the town for the payment of all necessary costs thereby incurred. On April 15th, it was decided that a Recorder should be added to the list of Municipal officers at the next election. The officers elected in the year 1867, which for the lack of any positive information, we are led to believe was the first regular election held, were, as nearly as we
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can glean from the records of the city, which were rather imperfectly kept in that year : Trustees, John Hassett, W. A. C. Smith, President, D. Show, John Emerson and W. N. Wagenseller, all of whom were duly sworn in on May 13th; while F. E. Baker, on that day, was appointed Clerk on a salary of seventy-five dollars a year. May 20th, the following Committees were appointed : Messrs. Show, Smith and Emerson, to draft Ordinances to govern the opening of streets; the same, to draft Ordinances prescribing the duties of Assessor and Collector; as also one, to fix the manner of raising revenue; at the same time an election was ordered to be held on May 30th, to fill the vacancies consequent on the Treasurer, Recorder, Assessor and Marshall failing to qualify, the result being declared on June 3d to be as under: John McManus, Treasurer; George M. Lacey, Recorder; John W. Clack, Assessor; T. G. Poor, Marshal. On the same date, notice was given Norton & Darrow, attorneys for defendants in the suit Hassett and Vaughan vs. James Wilber, tried before G. M. Lacey, March 27, 1867, that the inhabi- tants of the city of Healdsburg will be no longer responsible in the further prosecution of the case, and that said attorneys be instructed to dismiss the appeal, unless the said defendant shall elect to continue the case on his own responsibity ; also, that the sureties on the undertaking on appeal be notified of the abandonment of the suit. Ordinances providing for the opening of streets, and the raising of revenue were adopted on the 17th June, while it was then permitted to Mr. Morrow to erect one of his patent pumps on the plaza for trial. At this meeting John Hassett was appointed a committee to provide a suitable place to be used as a town jail, while Trustee Wagenseller was nominated to engage the services of a gentleman to act as City Attor- ney, the office being filled on July 15th by the appointment of F. E. Baker; while, on the same date, Messrs. Hassett and Show were chosen a committee to make all the necessary arrangements for the construction of a prison, to be built by the corporation. On August 5th, claims for damages conse- quent upon the opening of certain streets were presented from H. Dudley, W. E. Mason, J. L. Terry, C. Rice, C. Soule, Mrs. C. W. Beeson and James Palmer, which, on motion, were placed on file, and J. N. Bailhache, J. N. Wood and T. A. Field appointed Commissioners to assess such damages.
In regard to the general history of Healdsburg during the year 1867, the most that can be said of it is that its watchword was still "go ahead." Houses continued to spring up on every hand, day by day finding themselves further out in the country. The stately oaks, which abounded, had to be felled to make way for fresh avenues of traffic; the population increased, business prospered and all went well, evidencing a firm prospect of future prosperity which has not been belied.
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