USA > California > Sonoma County > History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams > Part 44
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Some time later, probably about 1816, a Russian vessel anchored in the bay of San Francisco. The Spanish authorities complained of Koskoff to the commander of the vessel, and a conference was held concerning the matter, but nothing came of it. The commandants under the Mexican regime, in later years, organized several military expeditions for the purpose of marching against the intruders, but no real march in that direction was ever made. For more than a quarter of a century they continued to hold undisturbed possession of the disputed territory, and prosecuted their farm- ing, stock-raising, hunting, trapping and ship-building enterprises. However, whatever were the causes which led to it, there finally came a time when the Russian authorities had decided to withdraw the California colony. The proposition was made first by them to the Government authorities at Mon- terey, to dispose of their interests here, including their title to the land. As the authorities had never recognized their right or title to the land, and did not wish to do so now, they refused to purchase. Application was next made to General M. G. Vallejo, but on the same grounds he refused to purchase. They then applied to Captain John A. Sutter, a gentleman at
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that time residing near where Sacramento city now stands. Capt. Sutter had come to the country from Sitka, some years before, on board of one of their vessels. They persuaded Sutter into the belief that their title was good, and could be maintained; so, after making out a full invoice of the articles they had for disposal, including all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Mendocino, and one league inland, as well as cattle, farming and mechanical implements; also, a schooner, of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, some arms, a four-pound brass field-piece, etc., a price was decided upon. The amount paid by Sutter was thirty thousand dollars. This was not all paid at one time, but in installments of a few thousand dollars at a time. The last payment was made by Sutter through ex- Governor Burnett, in 1849. Sutter paid the entire amount in cash, and not a part in cash and the remainder in wheat and real estate, as has been stated to us by old settlers. E. V. Sutter, of San Francisco, a son of the General, is our authority for the above statements. All the stipulations of the sale having been arranged satisfactorily to both parties, the transfer was duly made, and Sutter became, as he thought the greatest land-holder in California. The grants given by the Mexican Government seemed mere bagatelles, compared with his almost provincial possessions. But, alas! for human hopes and aspirations ; for in reality he had paid an enormous price for a very paltry compensation of personal and chattel property. It is apropos to remark here that in 1859 Sutter disposed of his Russian claim, which was a six-eighths interest in the lands mentioned above, to William Muldrew, George R. Moore and Daniel W. Welty, but they only succeeded in getting six thousand dollars out of one settler. The remainder refused to pay, and the claim was dropped. Some of the settlers were inclined to con- sider the Muldrew claim, as it is called, a black-mailing affair, and to censure General Sutter for disposing of it to them, charging that he sanctioned the black-mailing process, and was to share in its profits, but we will say in justice to the General, that so far as he was concerned, there was no idea of black-mail on his part. He supposed that he did purchase a bona fide claim and title to the land in question, of the Russians, and has always considered the grants given by the Mexican Government as bogus, hence in giving this quit-claim deed to Muldrew et al., he sincerely thought that he was deeding that to which he alone had any just or legal claim.
Orders were sent to the settlers at Fort Ross to repair at once to San Francisco bay, and ships were dispatched to bring them there, where whaling vessels, which were bound for the northwest whaling grounds, had been chartered to convey them to Sitka. The vessels arrived at an early hour in the day, and the orders shown to the commander, Rotscheff, who immediately caused the bells to be rung in the chapel towers, and the cannon to be discharged, this being the usual method of convocating the people at an unusual hour, or for some special purpose, so everything was suspended
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just there-the husbandman left his plow standing in the half-turned furrow, and unloosed his oxen, never again to yoke them, leaving them to wander at will over the fields; the mechanic droped his planes and saws on the bench, leaving the half-planed board still in the vise; the tanner left his tools where he was using them, and dropped his apron to don it no more in Cali- fornia. As soon as the entire population had assembled Rotscheff arose and read the orders. Very sad and unwelcome, indeed, was this intelligence, but the edict had emanated from a source which could not be gainsaid, and the only alternative was speedy and complete compliance, however reluctant it might be. And thus four hundred people were made homeless by the fiat of a single word. Time was only given to gather up a few household effecis, and some of the choicest keepsakes, and they were hurried on board the ships. Scarcely time was given to those whose loved ones were sleeping in the graveyard near by, to pay a last sad visit to their resting place. Embarcation was commenced at once,
" And with the ebb of the tide the ships sailed out of the harbor, Leaving behind thein the dead on the shore,
And all the happy scenes of their lives, which had glided smoothly along on the beautiful shores of the Pacific and in the garden-spot of the world. Sad and heavy must have been their hearts, as they gazed for the last time upon the receding landscape which their eyes had learned to love because it had been that best of all places-HOME.
"This is the forest primeval ; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman ?
Waste are the pleasant farms, all the farmers forever departed! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far over the ocean,
* Naught but tradition remains. * *
Still stands the forest primeval; but under the shade of its branches Dwells another race, with other customs and language,
While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and, in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."
We will now pass to the settlement of the township by Americans. Sutter at once sent a major domo to Fort Ross to look after his interests at that point. Of all who were sent there by him during the next four or five years, only two are known at the present time, viz .: John Bidwell and Wm. Benitz. Benitz went there in the Spring of 1844 as major domo and spent ยท that year in that capacity. In the Spring of 1845, he rented the place from Sutter on certain conditions, associating with him as partner Ernest Rufus, now of Sonoma valley. They took a contract to grow potatoes for a firm in Yerba Buena. They raised an abundance of potatoes and had them snugly stored in the old Russian buildings, but the vessel which was sent up for them was lost, and the potatoes rotted and were carted out and thrown into the sea. These enterprising Germans made good use of all the 1 Russian appliances which they found at the place. Their wheat was
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, threshed on the old theshing-floor. It was made into flour in the old wind grist-mill. One day Mr. Rufus concieved the idea of tanning leather in the old Russian tannery. Among his effects he remembered to have a sort of an encyclopedia of scientific information, and in it he found a recipe for tanning. He went at it with a will, keeping his book ever before him, and following the directions strictly. He was not very successful with the first lot of hides. He then went to a tannery somewhere and learned wherein he had missed it in his process. He then took another lot of hides through which came out very passable leather, indeed. His nearest market was Monterey, and thither he hied himself with his roll of leather on a pack pony. He found a ready sale for it, and continued for some years to make more or less leather there.
It is not known what name the Russians applied to the stockade now known as Fort Ross, and it would not be out of place to state here how its present name came to be applied to it. The Spaniards and Spanish-speaking people always spoke of it as "Fuerte de los Rusos "-fort of the Russians. When Americans began to speak of it, although speaking Spanish, they did away with the circumlocution of the Spanish phrase and called it "Fuerte Rusos," which easily drifted into Fort Ross when the Americans became more numerous, and less Spanish was heard in the land. The Muniz Rancho, on which Fort Ross stands, was granted to Manuel Torres December 4, 1845, by Pio Pico. Soon after this Benitz purchased Torres' title to the rancho and refused to pay any farther rent to Sutter for the use of the land. In the end, however, he paid some rental, as it was he who paid the sum of six thousand dollars to quiet the Muldrew title. Benitz continued to reside here for a number of years. He had a large band of well trained Indians, and it is said that he could get more work out of them and managed them more systematically than any other rancher in the State. He had a large bell which was rung at six in the morning. The Indians all arose at the sound of the bell, and having dressed, they formed in a line and marched up to the commissariat when the rations for breakfast and a drink of whisky were issued to each man. At seven they had their breakfast and were in the field at work. At half-past eleven the bell rang again and all marched up again and received their allowances, whisky included. Work was resumed at one in the afternoon. At six the bell called them in from the labors of the day and rations and whisky were again issued. Benitz finally disposed of the Muniz Rancho to various parties and went to South America where he died a few years since.
On the 8th day of April, 1846, Ernest Rufus applied for and received the grant of the Rancho de Herman, or German grant, as it is called, which lies north of the Muniz grant, and borders on the coast. It is usually asserted that Henry Hagler was a partner with Mr. Rufus, but such was not the case. When Mr. Rufus went to Los Angeles to make application for his
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grant he intended to have Hagler as a partner, but was told by the authori- ties that owing to the fact, that the land asked for bordered on the sea-shore it could be granted to only one man, and that that man must be a tried and true man, one friendly to the Government, and one who would look well to its defense along his domain in times of war with an outside enemy. Such owners would be commissioned as officers at such times, and expected to do military duty. The request of Rufus for the grant was refused, as he had no one to vouch for his loyalty to the Mexican Government. The next day, however, he chanced to meet an old friend, a relative of Pio Pico, then Governor, who was an official, and who had known him in the days of the " rebellion," as the little trouble between Castro and Manuel Micheltorena was called, Rufus having been with Sutter in the service of the latter. This friend at once proffered to vouch for Rufus, and the grant was issued forth- with.
Mr. Hagler was a good mechanic and a genius withal. It will be remem- bered that he came to the county with Captain Smith as ship's carpenter in 1843. He erected a grist mill on the Rancho de Herman, doing the entire wood and iron work required in its construction right on the ground. He also cut the burs from the native sandstone, and they worked very nicely. We are sorry that we are unable to give more of this worthy pioneer's his- tory. These gentlemen gave to the river which formed the northern boun- dary of the ranch its beautiful name-Valhalla.
As stated above, there was a schooner included in the Sutter purchase for the Russians. It was of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, and made at Fort Ross. It was rechristened by its new possessor, and given the name of "Sacramento." The following incident concerning this schooner was related to us by Mr. Rufus: Captain Smith had disposed of a number of horses and provisions to Captain Fremont, for which he had received an order on the United States Treasury for the sum of four thousand dollars. It was a long way in those days from New Helvetia to Washington, hence this order was of but little avail to Sutter for present demands, and present demands with the hardy old pioneer just at that time had become quite pressing demands. At length a proposition came from the Hudson Bay Company to cash the order at a proper discount. He at once loaded his schooner "Sacra- mento" with a cargo of such articles as would be saleable, and started it to the headquarters of that company on the far away northern coast, under the command of a master named Yates, who also had the order on the United States in his charge. One night after the vessel had been gone about a fortnight, Sutter had invited a few of his neighbors in to sample some choice wines of which he had lately become possessed. As a matter of course the most of them became somewhat drowsy, quite late in the evening, and were sitting or lying around in happy confusion. Presently a loud rap was heard at the outer gate of the fort, which Sutter at once recognized as
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that of one of his many servants at Fort Ross, and who was known as " Kanaka Charley." Upon hearing the well-known knock of his servant, he hastened to the gate and admitted him, knowing full well that matters of no small import had brought him to the fort at that hour of the night. His dismay and amazement can be better imagined than described, when he had read the note borne by Charley. It was from Captain Yates, of the schooner, and it stated that the schooner had gone ashore at Fort Ross, and that the order had been cast overboard in a trunk, hoping that it would drift ashore, but that on the contrary it had been carried out to sea and lost. The sturdy old German did not fly into a passion and deliver him- self of a volume of expletives, as might be expected. No, not he. He re- read the note more deliberately, then going back to the room where his friends were gathered, he filled every glass to the brim, then rousing all of them up he read the note, and at once proposed a hearty toast. We are glad to be able to state that the matter did not turn out nearly so bad as it was at first supposed it would. The mate, a hardy old seaman by the name of Flemming, who had seen ships in bad places before, set to work, and in a short time had the schooner afloat again. The trunk containing the order came ashore at Bodega bay and was returned to its owner. The vessel then proceeded to its destination and returned with the gold for the order.
The only moveable article which was included in the Sutter purchase which is now in existence, as far as known, or at least the one to which the mnost historie interest attaches, is a brass four-pound field-piece. This gun was cast in St. Petersburg in 1804. It was through the war against Napo- leon, and was finally sent to Alexander Koskoff, the commander of the Cali- fornia colony, as a present from the Czar of Russia. Concerning the history of this gun after it came into Sutter's hands, there are two versions, one given by Major Gillespie, who it will be remembered was very closely con- nected with all the events which transpired during that most eventful period of California's history-the Bear Flag days of 1846. In the Alta Cali- fornia of July 3, 1846, Major Gillespie says: This gun was brought over from Fort Ross and mounted at Fort Sutter. It was captured from Fort Sutter by the Mexicans. It was afterwards re-captured, and was among those which saluted the American flag July 12, 1846, at sunrise. It was used by Commodore Stockton in his march from San Pedro to Los Angeles. Also at the battle of San Pasqual, December 6, 1846, and at Los Angeles at the battle which occurred at that place December 26, 1846. It was then transferred to Colonel Mason of the First United States Dragoons, who returned it to Sutter." The other version is given by Sutter, and is as follows: Writing under date of August 13, 1879, from Litiz, Lancaster county, Penn- sylvania, he says, "Major (then Captain) Gillespie is in error in speaking of the "Sutter" gun. It was not upon the walls at all (July 12, 1846), it hav-
Jemy Hall
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
ing been captured by Castro's forces at the battle of Covenga, near San Fernando, when I was fighting with my forces under General Micheltorena, then Governor of the Department of California, in January and February, 1845, against the rebels, and the gun remained in the possession of tl e rebel Californians until recaptured by the American forces some years subsequent, and became of great service to the latter. Of my command in 1845, con- sisting of one hundred mounted riflemen (men of all nationality) and some Indian soldiers, but few survive at this late day. Among the survivors are General Bidwell, who was my aid-de-camp, and Major Rufus, of Sonoma." The gun was presented by Sutter subsequently to the Society of Pioneers, and can be seem in their rooms in San Francisco.
Among the early settlers of this township not already mentioned may be named Christian F. Ruoff, who located at Stillwater Cove in the Fall of 1851. He entered a tract of government land which lay between the Muniz rancho and Rancho de Herman. He died a few years later, but his widow and children still reside on the old homestead. N. C. Irwin came in 1857, and settled on government land some eight miles to the eastward of Timber Cove. David Hopper and R. Moffett came the same year, and H. Carson, Richard Temple, Gibson, Clark, Freeman, George Mapes, Ira Mapes, and J. W. McElroy came in 1858. These all settled on the government land back of the grants mentioned above.
HARBORS, MILLS AND TOWNS .- The beginning of a town in this township has always been conditional on two things, namely: a harbor and a saw-mill. The first named is the prime condition, yet but few towns have sprung up where there was no mill, and some have passed out of existence with the mill, leaving scarcely a trace behind.
FORT ROSS .- This, of course, is the oldest place in the township, and comes in first for a mention under the head of towns, though it is not yet a very large place. We do not know just what mills have been at or near this spot since the old Russian days. We are told that Benitz built a mill back of the Fort a mile or so. It is also claimed that James Dixon built the mill. However, it is evident that a mill of some kind and capacity was at one time in operation there. The place, as a town, does not seem to have pro- gressed much from its primitive stockade state until its present enterprising and gentlemanly proprietor, George W. Call, came into possession of it. He is a thorough-going business man, and has set the wheel in motion which has made the place quite a thriving little village, and is still planning and executing projects which will ensure a continuance of its prosperity. It has many natural advantages which will make it a place of great importance for all time to come. Its harbor is the best in the vicinity, being perfectly secure from northers. Its landings are kept in the best of order, and load- ing and discharging vessels is easily accomplished. There is a large amount
.
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of excellent timber tributary to the place, which will some day make it quite important. There is a tract of about one thousand acres of most excellent farming land adjacent to it, which is far more than is in one body at any other point along the coast. There is an excellent road leading along the coast, and some new roads of easy grade leading into the interior are in course of construction which, when completed, will bring it within easy access of a large portion of back country. We bespeak for it a brilliant future. We will give a short description of the present appearance of the old Russian stockade and buildings. The greater portion of the stockade is gone. The public road passes through the middle of the old enclosure from east to west. The old buildings are now used respectively for a saloon, hotel, and store- house, while the old chapel is profaned by being used as a stable. The bas- tions make excellent pigstys. They are tottering under the weight of years, and are moss-covered and worm-eaten, and will soon pass out of existence. There is at present one hotel, one saloon, one blacksmith shop, one store, one meat market, post and telegraph offices. The postoffice was established May 23, 1877, with George W. Call, Postmaster. The stage route leading out from Duncan's Mill passes through all the towns in the township, likewise the Pacific Coast Telegraph line. Mr. Call is still Postmaster, and E. Black- ford dispenses justice in the regions roundabout. At the landing there is a chute which is one hundred and eighty feet long, to which there is a swing- ing apron one hundred feet in length. The loading of vessels with this is a very easy process, and rapid withal. The cord-wood, tan-bark, railroad ties, fence posts are dumped into the head of the chute by the cart load, and by the time they reach the deck of the vessel they have acquired a fearful velocity. Quite large quantities of the above-named articles are exported frem this point annually, while more or less dairy products are also shipped. The schooner " Euphemia," thirty-eight tons register, now runs regularly in this trade. She is owned by Captain Henry Botcher. This schooner was run in the Bodega trade by Captain Botcher from 1866 to 1877. Captain Christ ran the schooner "Eden" to this place in 1874 and 1875. Captain C. Schmalling ran the schooner "Mary Zepher" here from 1875 to 1877. The " Eden" was afterwards capsized off Point Reyes, but no lives were lost.
TIMBER COVE .- The early mill history of this place is also somewhat shrouded in doubt. The most reliable statement is to the effect that William Benitz built a mill on the coast at the Cove in 1862, that it was burned in 1864, and that in 1861, a Mr. Webber and D. L. B. Ross, now of Black Point, built a mill on the ridge, one and a half miles back of the Cove, and after three years took it away. Both were steam mills; the Benitz mill had a capacity of twenty-five thousand feet, and the Ross and Webber mill of sixteen thousand feet per day. At present there is a chute, over which considerable quantities of cord-wood, fence-posts, tan-bark, etc., pass annually.
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A hotel, a school-house, a store and one dwelling-house comprise the buildings in the town. The postoffice was established February 24, 1863, with F. Helmke as Postmaster.
STILLWATER COVE .- This is merely a small bight at which there is a chute owned by Mrs. Ruoff. The usual exports of this township come here in large quantities during the year. There is no sign of a town here, and probably never will be.
SALT POINT .- In the Spring of 1853, Messrs. Hendy & Duncan moved the mill machinery of the old Benicia or Blumedale Sawmill Company down from the mines, whither they had taken it upon becoming the owners of it, and located at Salt Point. This was doubtless the first steam saw-mill in the township. At this time the mill was small, only having the capacity of five thousand feet per day. In 1854, the engine was enlarged to a sixteen horse-power, and this increased the capacity of the mill to twelve thousand feet. While here, Mr. Hendy disposed of his interest to A. Duncan and the brothers continued to run the mill here till January, 1860. While here, it is estimated that they cut thirty million feet of lumber. In its prime days there was quite a village here, but only a few straggling half tumbled down shanties are left now to mark the site of the milling village. Near it and bearing the same name is a little town of a few houses viz., one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one store and a few dwelling houses. W. R. Miller at one time had a saw-mill in this vicinity, but we now know nothing of its capacity or history. The land and chutes at this point now belong to a San Francisco firm.
FISK'S MILL .- J. C. Fisk came to this place and built a mill in April, 1860. He had formerly used the machinery in Napa valley, it being located about eight miles above the city. The mill was steam and had a capacity of twenty thousand feet per day. It was run here for fourteen years and then moved to Cuffy's Cove. It is estimated that in those fourteen years the enormous quantity of forty-two million feet of lumber was cut. Mr. Fisk built a chute at this place in 1860. He disposed of his interest in the mill in 1865 to Fred. Helmke. The mill is gone and with it all life. The whole village is going to ruin. It is, indeed, a veritable "Deserted Village." There is a store and a hotel here, and that is all. No famillies occupy any of the many vacant houses. Mr. Helmke erected a beautiful mansion here by the seaside, thinking to make it his permanent abiding place, but the ever- changing kaleidoscope of fortune soon presented such a phase that he had to leave it for others to enjoy, and with him the glory of the place departed.
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