History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams, Part 9

Author: Alley, Bowen & Co. 4n
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: San Francisco : Alley, Bowen & Co.
Number of Pages: 1008


USA > California > Sonoma County > History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams > Part 9


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California Wines .- The following article is produced from the San Fran- cisco Chronicle :


It is obvious that in the nature of things the Comstock Lode which now absorbs all our superfluous coin, cannot last forever. There is one argument against it as an investment which ought to be fatal to it, and that is the amount of silver which has already been drawn from its bowels. All scien- tifie men believe that fresh developments may be made, but the chances against their being general are simply enormous. Many holders of stock believe that any discovery in any mine must advance the price of others, and it has hitherto done so without a doubt. But the fatal argument of the amount of silver that has been realized must weigh upon men's minds and must tend to prevent any general rise. The discovery of silver in one mine is in reality an argument against other discoveries in other parts of the lode, upon general principles of logic, and aside from any pseudo scientific theories of silver-mining. There is this certainty in all investments in mining stock- that such a placing of money cannot be permanent. The odds are against success ; but even should success come, the investor must watch his invest- ment, or, after being raised to the seventh heaven, he will be lowered to the uttermost depths. The merchant cannot be watching his stock, he has his own affairs to look after. The mechanic has his bench, the servant his duties, and they are all in the hands of men who naturally desire to make


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money whatever happens. Hence the situation is unreal. Even if success- ful, the beginning is big and the end small. It is an investment that grows backwards, a man that dwarfs into an embryo. And there is a wide-spread general belief that fair play is seldom shown upon the Comstock, though this may be only the excuse and shift of dealers to account for failures for which they are themselves responsible. They get up accounts of success before it comes, and profit alike by the inflation and the collapse. Then when the success does arrive tardily some eight months afterwards, they have a story of foul play at the mine which, perhaps, is entirely fictitious. But this much is certain, that if all were honest, if all were fair on the Com- stock and exchange, the investment would be a lottery and not an invest- ment. And every man owes it to his family to make such investments as shall be perpetual and grow with the growth of the State.


Now this is the exact condition of California wine culture. All those who have examined the subject are satisfied that the wine is superior on the average to any other wine of any other country, not even excepting France. This industry has fought its way from small beginnings, until it commences to push its way into the front rank. It was once a little cloud not bigger than a man's hand, and now it looms large, and is destined, in the opinion of many, to cover all California. And it has numberless advantages over other industries, which men begin to realize. Everything which is connected with it receives a permanent benefit, for instead of being compelled to dimin- ish and disappear, like mining, it constantly increases and enlarges and waxes strong. The more men are engaged in growing grapes the more inouths have to be fed by California farmers, and they know full well that the great profit of growing wheat is in the market on the other side of the hill, and not the other side of Cape Horn. Commercially speaking, there is no possibility of over production in wine, for immediately that a nation embra- ces wine-making it becomes wine-consuming also. France that has by its system of almost infinite subdivision of lands compelled the peasant pro- prietor to raise grapes whether the soil be suitable or not, is not able to supply the home demand, although vines are planted to the injurious exclu- sion of other products because they pay far better than anything else. And the time will certainly come when all America will be wine-consuming, and whisky drinking be a thing of the past. To-day in the restaurants of San Francisco native wine can be had at an almost nominal charge, and with our rapidity of progress it cannot be doubted that the style of our restaurants will spread to Chicago and St. Louis, thence to Cincinnati and Indiana, thence to New York, Philadelphia and Boston. The whole of the United States will be covered as by a golden net with establishments where the good cheap wine of California can be drunk. At present California drinks about three million gallons of her own wine annually, and will this year export more than two millions and a half to New York. But, unfor- tunately, in New York the wine is bottled and sold as French.


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If the capital which is absorbed by the ever-thirsty Comstock, that gapes like a dusty sponge, could be turned toward the wine interest, this condition of our export business would be materially, changed. Had our wine-handlers the capital, our best wines would be bottled and kept for several years, until mature, and would be sold by Californian agents in all the large cities of the East in open competition with the French; and our average grade wines would be sold even cheaper than they are now, so as to place them within the reach of all Eastern restaurants. At present this is the course pursued on a very limited scale in California; but with our restricted capital, we cannot extend the sphere of our operations beyond our own State. Hence California wine is under a great disadvantage, and her dealers suffer a loss of prestige and profit. The New York dealers buy a cheap average of our wines-that is to say, fair wines about a year old-and pass them off upon the public for French superior wines. So immense and wholesale is the swindling perpetrated in the French wine ports, Cette, Marseilles and Bor- deaux, that the public is actually benefitted by the New York trickery. For though these wines which masquerade as superior French wines are in reality inferior California wines, yet they are far better than the French vins de cargaisons or export wines. There is no attempt on the part of the friends of California wine to claim equality with the French chateau wines, but it has been demonstrated by analysis, based upon the invoices of wine in the United States Consular offices of the ports named, that these fine wines do not come to America. If any American wants them he must go to the vineyards and buy the vintage over the heads of other buyers, but these fine wines are not exported from France on commission, as nineteen-twentieths of the French wine that comes to America actually is. The wine is notori- ously fabricated from bad wines, both white and red, flavored in imitation sweetened with brown sugar, strengthened with alcohol distilled at Hamburg from potatoes, and colored with fuchsine, one of the petroleum colors. This delectable compound is brought.down to the correct claret pitch with water, and the whole comes in cask to New York, accompanied by cases filled with empty bottles, assorted packets of grand labels, straw, corks and everything necessary to give the wine the air of having been bottled in France. The known price of this vin de cargaison is from six to seven cents a gallon. Now, our California wines that take the place of this villainous stuff are pure and good, but they have not been given the time to mature, and are conse- quently often crude and acrid. A peach is delicious, but an unripe peach is by no means a delicate morsel. So it is with wine. The better it is in quality, the longer it takes to ripen. Wines that have a low level of quality soon reach it, for they have not far to go; wines that are very superior have far to go, and it takes them a corresponding length of time.


It is hard that one of the worst enemies of California wine is an enemy within the gates-a household foe. Our wealthy men in general affect to dis-


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dain California wine, and speak with rapture of French. It is really a mat- ter for just complaint that the leading California industry-for such it truly is-should be slandered by the very men who are in honor bound to main- tain and assist it. California patriotism is notorious; yet it is a fact that the very men who claim that whatever is done or made in California is bet- ter than anything made or done elsewhere, make an exception against our wine. Singular anomaly ! They brag of things that are doubtful, and they deny that which is certain! If this sentiment is based upon the cheapness of California wine, then there is a depth of snobbishness exhibited which the mind recoils from and refuses to fathom. Can anything more revoltingly purse-proud be imagined than a man who insists upon buying a bad foreign article because it is dear, and who despises and refuses a good home article because it is cheap ? If these men had been born in the purple, if they had drunk French claret all their lives, one would condone their offense against patriotism, and explain their prejudices by the supposition that their palates were so depraved by the constant use of what was bad, that they had lost the power of discriminating what was good. But this apology will not hold, because we know well enough that these millionaires strengthened their tis- sues in the old days of their struggles against poverty with corn whisky, and the use of claret is only a device born of millions, and a pretense of habits, aristocratic, and luxurious, to which they are in reality strangers. These men drink claret and sigh for lager, they degustate Burgundy and wish to heaven that cider was a fashionable beverage. It would be a sign of true nobility to drink what they liked without the assumption of tastes which are foreign to them. But if they must drink wine, let them drink California wine, and then they will at least have the consolation of patriotism.


They would, however, be conferring a real benefit on the community if they would do what the aristocrats of Europe set them the example by doing. Wealthy men all over the world are exceedingly choice in the wines they drink, and have found by experience that the only way to have a good article is to make a cellar. They first construct underneath their palatial mansions proper receptacles for the wine, and then they devote themselves to the grand task of stocking them. This cannot be done by rushing into the market and offering any price for, let us say, claret of 1858. For, by the system pursued for the last hundred and fifty years, almost all the 1858 wine went to these private cellars the year it was made. In fact, it was bought before it was made, and then was laid down in the bins to ripen until thoroughly mature. Nor was it broached until all the wine of 1846, the preceding grand vintage, was all consumed. Then 1858 was attacked, and when that was gone 1867 was brought to light. By this method the wealthy have wine that is absolutely perfect, and the first cost is not great. The expense of a properly constructed cellar, of competent butlers and cellar-men, is no doubt large, but the result is perfect wine, and this is not


Ale Bledsoe


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to be had in the market. There are speculators who, at the death of wine connoisseurs who have no near heirs, or at the failure and bankruptcy of sporting nobles, buy up such fragments of wine stocks as may be for sale, but the amount is infinitesimal. Formerly the wealthy of our Eastern cities did have cellars of Madeira, and American Madeira was notoriously superior to any other, but since the failure of that wine American cellars have almost ceased to exist. To the California millionaire fortune now gives the high privilege of reinstituting the cellar system, stocked not with a single foreign wine, but with all the generous resources of our magnificent vineyards. We do not yet know of what California is capable. We have not fairly tried the quality of Zinfindel, but there is a shrewd belief among the initiated that the rival of the Chateau wines of the Gironde does exist in this vine. It is thought that Zinfindel, planted on the most precipitous slopes and fairly matured, will be the equal, perhaps more than the equal, of Chateau Lafitte, Chateau Margaux, or Braun Moutoun. No dealer has time or capital to make this attempt. The wine handlers of San Francisco, with their small capital, have done marvels, but they cannot do this, for their cellars are occupied with wines that come and go. This thing is for the rich. Here is their opportunity to be patriotic.


It must be understood that the fortunes and profits of the wine business are to be found rather in the general consumption than in the elevation of special brands. But what is wanted is to attract to our enormous stretches of foot- hills, so admirably calculated for the culture of the vine, olive, and fig, con- tinuous streams of intelligent, well-to-do immigrants. At first the vine- grower had also to make wine, and this necessity was a bar to his migration, because sensible men understand how expensive and how difficult is the busi- ness. But at this juncture the wine trade has so developed in this State that grape-growing and wine-making are distinct pursuits. He who grows grapes only is as certain of a sale for them as is the wheat cultivator. One may, therefore, boldly say to the teeming millions of the East, " Come to California and we will make you rich. Here in the golden grape is the true El Dorado. Here is a heavenly climate, a delightful land, abundance of all meats, profusion of all fruits, no public debt of any amount, no crushing taxes and a superb future." For the grape-grower has the certainty of com- petence and the possibility of collossal wealth. His vineyard may turn out one of the favored spots which produce the nectar wine. The Chateau wines of France are only such favored spots. The grapes which grow there are the same as those which produce the ordinary wine. But Nature, in her whim- sical prodigality, gives to a place here and a place there certain facilities and advantages which we cannot discover by any analysis, though we may know their results. As these spots exist in France, so we know that they exist here, and any one of these is a silver mine that is never exhausted, but be- ยท comes more valuable as time goes on. If the wealthy men of California


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would become interested in our wine, and would, instead of decrying it, form cellars and assist in finding out by fully maturing the different wines the advantages of the different localities, then the reputation of our vintages would become so great that immigrants would come by hundreds of thou- sands. We have now such a mass of knowledge with regard to grape culture that no one need go astray. Information and brotherly assistance await every man who will help to build up California's grand industry. But we must repeat that we ought to have no enemies within our gates.


SQUATTING TROUBLES .- For the benefit of our readers we quote the following lucid statement of facts in regard to the squatting disturbances near Healds- burg which appeared in the Sonoma County Democrat of June 19, 1862 :-


" The rancho Sotoyome, upon which the lands in dispute are situate, was granted by the Mexican Government to Henry D. Fitch in 1844. We are told by attorneys now in attendance upon the District Court that a title more perfeet in all respects was never presented to the courts for adjudi- cation. Mr. Fitch died in 1849, leaving several children, the plaintiff Mrs. Bailhache among the number. The rancho was confirmed by the courts, and in April, 1858, a patent issued therefor from the United States Govern- ment. Previous to this, and while the title to the rancho was pending before the United States Courts, the rancho was divided into small tracts, and sold under an order of the Probate Court of this county. At that sale Mrs. Bail- hache became the purchaser of the lands in dispute ( some fourteen hundred acres ) as her interest in the estate of her father. After the issuance of the patent for the rancho to the heirs of H. D. Fitch, Mrs. Bailhache brought a suit in ejectment against the parties in possession of the premises claimed by her, and after long and patient litigation, she finally, in October, 1859, obtained judgment for the restitution of the premises, against three of the parties in possession. In June, 1860, a judgment by confession in open court was entered against the balance of the occupants, with a stipulation that it should not be enforced until the first of December following. In July, 1860, a writ of restitution was issued out of the District Court against Messrs. Bice, Miller and Neely, the parties against whom the judgment was obtained in October, 1859, when they, for a mere nominal sum, entered into a lease, by the terms of which they agreed to deliver up the quiet and peaceable pos- session of the premises occupied by them on the first of December following.


"On the first of December, 1860, demand was made for the premises in accordance with the terms of the stipulation, and leases, and proposals made to sell or lease the premises. No arrangement seems to have been made, and in January, 1861, a writ of restitution was placed in the hands of the Sheriff against one C. C. Clark. It appears Clark was put out, the plaintiff put in possession, and on the same night the plaintiff was ousted by an armed force, and Clark returned. About this time suit was brought on the leases,


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upon which the plaintiff again recovered judgment and small damages. It was upon the execution issued in this last case that the farce of selling some stock for ten cents was enacted by Deputy Sheriff Campbell, last winter. At the February term of the District Court the plaintiff recovered judgment against the defendants Bice, Miller, and Neely, for some eleven hundred dollars, the value of rents and profits of the lands held by them. To the execution in this last judgment, the resistance was made last week. And to the execu- tion of the writ of restitution the resistance is now made.


"From the foregoing facts it appears that the defendants in this matter have chosen to resort to law for the settlement of their rights-that they have had no standing in court-and have had repeated judgments against them. It appears further, that they, by their own terms, should have delivered up the possession of the property long ago. That they have had opportunity to buy or to lease, and have had the use and occupation of the land at least four years, against the title of the plaintiff. On their part, we are informed, they say that the title of the plaintiff is invalid in consequence of some irregu- larity in the probate sale. Admit that it is imperfect, the courts have deter- mined that it is good against them, and resistance to that decree will not give them a title.


" Many hardships have no doubt been worked upon settlers in this State; but we can find no apology for the action of the defendants in this matter. They litigated themselves out of court, have enjoyed the use of the land for years free of taxation, and now that the plaintiff asks simply what the court says is hers, if they cannot buy the lands at prices which they can afford to pay, like true men and law-abiding citizens, they should leave the premises, without compelling the officer of the court to resort to force to remove them, as he is certain to do, if they persist. Have not these men some.one among their number capable of weighing the great responsibility they assume in armed resistance to the law ? It is more serious than the settlement of any disputed rights between the parties. The whole community, county and State, become interested in the result, and looking beyond any grievances the parties them- selves may think they have suffered, must come to the support of the law as the only safety we have as a people, in determining and protecting our rights in person and property. Though these men may be successful for a day, they cannot derive any permanent rights or benefits, and finally must yield with greater loss to themselves."


On the 15th July, the Sheriff, with two hundred and thirty of a posse comitatus, proceeded to the spot, but were unable to gain any end, as is shown in the subjoined affidavit made by prominent citizens, who were pres- ent on the occasion : "State of California, County of Sonoma .- The under- signed, citizens of Sonoma county, being each duly sworn, depose and say- that they were of the posse comitatus summoned by J. M. Bowles, Sheriff of said county, to assist him (the Sheriff) in the execution of certain writs of


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restitution or possession in favor of Josephine Bailhache, and against J. N. Stapp, Alexander Skaggs, Thomas L. Forsee, Cornelius Bice, Robert Neely, James Miller, and A. M. Green, and were present with said Sheriff and posse on the 15th day of July, 1862, when an attempt was made to execute said writs. That upon the approach of said Sheriff and posse to the premises of the said Cornelius Bice, they found drawn up in line in front of the house situated upon the premises, of which possession was to be given, a body of men, numbering about forty, armed with guns. That upon the Sheriff and his posse coming up to them and informing them that he was there for the purpose of executing said writs, the said body of armed men declared that they were there for the purpose of resisting, and would, with all their force, resist and prevent, if they had the force to do so, the execution of any and all of said writs, and forbade the Sheriff or his posse to enter the gate to the yard in which they were standing, with their guns presented towards the Sheriff and posse. That the Sheriff more than once commanded them to disperse and permit him peaceably to perform his duty and execute the writs, and that they refused to do so, and reiterated their determination to forcibly prevent their execution. That the posse of the Sheriff was unarmed, and from actual observation and intercourse with them then and there, deponents know that most of them were unwilling, and a great many of them absolutely refused to risk an encounter with the said body of armed men. Deponents further say that, from their information, they believe that the said body of armed men in front of said house was not more than one-sixth of the whole body of armed men that had assembled in that immediate vicinity for the purpose of resisting the execution of these writs, and that the remainder of said body were within such convenient distance to those in front of the house as to render them assistance upon the occurrence of any conflict. Deponents further say that it would have been rash and danger- ous to life, and, in their opinion, a useless sacrifice of unarmed citizens, to have made any further attempt than was made to execute the said writs then and there, and they believe that they cannot be executed by such a posse of citizens as the Sheriff' can summon in the county, and believe they can be executed only by the assistance of military power." In order to carry out the law the Emmet Rifles and Petaluma Guards, under the command of Captains Baylis and Hewlett, respectively, were detailed for this duty, and proceeded to Healdsburg, where they, with a posse of civilians, proved them- selves able to cope with the rebellious squatters. Skaggs, Stapp, Miller, and others were tried before the District Court for contempt, on October 24th, and each fined five hundred dollars, and sentenced to five days' imprison- ment in the county jail. But here the question did not end. On February 9, 1862, Deputy-Sheriff J. D. Binns, with a posse, served a writ of restitution upon Cornelius Bice, who had still remained in oceupation, when he, with his family, were removed and J. N. Bailhache put in possession. That night the


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premises were burned, by parties unknown. On the following evening Robert Ferguson was wounded by a gun-shot, while moving some rails from the premises of one of the defendants, from the effects of which he died on the 15th.


RAILROADS .- Of all the means which tend to cause the rapid settlement of a country, perhaps there are none which produce such quick results as the railroad. So soon as it is learned that the fiery horse is snorting through a hitherto unknown territory, so sure are travelers to make their appearance, and as the numbers of these increase, more certain is it that permanent occupiers will follow, trading posts be opened, and around their nucleus before the lapse of many weeks will a town spring up. As the transportation of freights is facilitated, so will produce increase, and as crops multiply, still more certain it is that peace and plenty will reign.




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