History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams, Part 30

Author: Alley, Bowen & Co. 4n
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: San Francisco : Alley, Bowen & Co.
Number of Pages: 1008

USA > California > Sonoma County > History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams > Part 30

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Petaluma creek is an arm of the San Pablo bay, having enough water at high tide to make it easy navigation for schooners, sloops, scows and small steamers of light draft. From about three thousand yards above the city, where the stream is lost, it finds its winding course through a district, principally of marsh or tule-land, until it merges with the salt water after having travelled a distance of sixteen miles. As has been elsewhere shown this was the water-way which Captain Quiros and a party of explorers ascended in September, 1776, in the vain endeavor of finding a connecting stream with the ocean at Bodega bay. In the year 1850, when the township was first commencing to be settled, the depth of the creek was considerably greater than it is to-day; debris had not yet been cast into its clear waters nor had mud formed in such vast quantities on its banks, it was a clear stream of pure water, and free from all obstructions, save where the fallen timbers may have spanned its width making a natural bridge for the hunters and their prey, who then roamed about the district.

The next record of a visit having been paid to the Petaluma valley is that of Father Altimira, in 1823, when on his search for a suitable site whereon to found a Mission to the north of the Bay of San Francisco. On this expe- dition the Holy Father's party passed the point at or near to where the city now stands, then named by the Spaniards " Punta de los Esteros," but known to the Indians as "Chocuali," and, crossing the creek to its east side, en- camped that night, June 25th, on the site of the adobe house built by General Vallejo, at this time known as the "Arroyo Lema." No settlement was however made in the Petaluma valley at this juncture.

In 1836 General Vallejo built the first house in the valley on a grant, known as the Petaluma Rancho, which had for its boundaries the Sonoma creek on the east, the San Pablo bay on the south, and Petaluma creek on the west, thus evidencing his proprietory rights over that vast tract wherein is included the portion of the city known as East Petaluma. Two years later

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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

the land on the opposite, or west side of the creek was settled on by Juan Miranda, who built a residence about two miles from the city of Petaluma, wherein he established himself with his family. In the year 1844, after an occupation of six years, he made application to the Mexican government that this tract should be granted to him, and, in order to attain this, Jacob P. Leese, then Alcalde of the district of Sonoma, certified that he was the only occupant; an order directing the issue of the usual title was made by Gov- ernor Micheltorena on October 8, 1844, but was never executed by reason of the political disturbances which ensued and resulted in the downfall of the Governor's power.

Mr. Robert A. Thompson, formerly of the Sonoma Democrat, in a descriptive sketch of Sonoma county tells the rest of the story of this grant in the fol- lowing words: Miranda was the father of many children, and one of his daughters, Francisca, married a Mexican named Antonio Ortega, who had no settled habitation, but lived sometimes with his wife's family, at this rancho, sometimes with the priests at the different Missions, and for several years in Oregon. On the ground of his occasional visits to his father-in-law he set up a claim to being the real occupant of the rancho, and succeeded in obtain- ing from Governor Alvarado a decree for the land, purporting to have been made August 10, 1840.

Thus there were two conflicting claims to the same tract of land. After the death of Miranda, at San Rafael, in 1850, his title was sold by order of the probate court of Marin county, and was purchased by T. B. Valentine of San Francisco. Whether the proceedings at this sale were regular, so as to vest in the purchaser a perfect title, is at least doubtful. The title of Ortega was conveyed to Charles White, of San Jose.

After the establishment of the land Commission, both of these claims were presented to that tribunal for adjudication. Valentine put in some testimony which was thought to be rather damaging to the success of the Ortega claim, providing that the testimony should be suppressed, the Miranda claim with- drawn, the Ortega claim pressed for confirmation and the proceeds of the sale of the lands covered by it divided between the contracting parties.

The Miranda title was thus summarily disposed of by the act of its holder. To clear away the Ortega title by the slow machinery of the law, took several years. It was confirmed by the land commission, was twice before the United States District Court-first confirmed and afterwards rejected; and twice before the United States Supreme Court, where it was finally rejected in 1863.

The land embraced within the limits of the rancho thus became public domain of the United States, and government surveys were extended over it. That portion within the boundaries of the incorporated limits of Petaluma was ceded to that city by act of Congress of March 1, 1867, and the occupants of all the remainder obtained patents under the pre-emption law.

Valentine besieged the doors of Congress for many years to get an act passed

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allowing him to present his title to the courts for confirmation. Such a measure would have been a great injustice to the occupants of the land, for although the original title was undoubtedly genuine, and would have been confirmed, he prevented a confirmation by his voluntary withdrawal of it. He was finally satisfied by receiving from the government an issue of very valuable land-scrip for the same number of acres embraced within his grant.

The first settlers therefore were the General at his adobe, where he kept a large number of Indians under the authority and guardianship of one of his sons, and Juan Miranda last mentioned.

At the time of which we write, and until the American settlers com- menced to arrive, the country was one vast wilderness covered with wild oats interspersed with flowers of every hue, backed by almost impenetrable forests of redwood, black, white and live oak, that fought for existence with the California laurel and other indiginous trees, the line of timber being then with- in the limits of the city. Through the dense waste of tangled weeds roamed cattle and horses that had never known the soothing hand of man. Did the hunter prove unsuccessful in the chase, he replenished his empty larder by slaying a "beef," perfectly regardless as to whose property it might be; timber was plentiful, so with his trusty ax he felled the stately trees, hew- ing planks therefrom wherewith to frame himself a shantie, while in later years, partnerships were formed among the trappers, who hunted elk, deer and feathered game, afterwards transporting them by boat to San Francisco, there receiving profitable prices in coïn and produce.

Early in the year 1850, Dr. August F. Heyermann built a log cabin on a piece of ground afterward owned by A. W. Rogers. In the month of Octo- ber, 1850, Tom. Lockwood, who had but recently arrived in the State, left San Francisco, hearing glowing accounts of the quantity of game obtainable in this region, with a party, purchased a ship's whale-boat, and pursued their way across the bay until they gained the mouth of the Petaluma creek, which they ascended cautiously, and finally halting, camped in a grove of oak trees just above the town, on what is now the property of the widow Bell. What a lifeof unvarying change must have been this of Lockwood and his com- panions. At the season of the year when they tarried on the plain, we can imagine the rain pouring down in torrents, accompanied by driving winds, but rarely varied by a fitful ray of sunshine. How cold too were the morn- ings and evenings, as they started to, or returned, mayhap, empty-handed from the fatigues of the chase, to drop off to' sleep on the damp grass, or perchance lie awake until dawn would bring back the weary monoto- nous round. Alone did they pursue this avocation for two long dreary months, their small craft making periodical trips to San Francisco to dispose of their spoils and lay in stores. On January 3, 1851, they were joined by Lemarcus Wiatt and John Linus, who arrived on the scene, not with the specific object of locating, but rather to repair their health, which had been

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shattered by a residence in the mines. Here the new comers found Lock- wood, Pendleton, and Levi Pyburn, and with these three pitched their tent under the friendly shadow of the oaks. Not long after, Thomas Baylis and David Flogdell wandered into this region, who falling in with the others,- increased the size of the camp, and pursued the same occupation. Of these, Lockwood and Wiatt are still residents of Petaluma; Baylis and Flogdell, of whom mention will be again made under their historical firm name of "Tom and Dave," remained in the city for years, and after earning comfort and respect were gathered to their fathers, while the others too have gone, and the site which they were the first to occupy knows them no more. These were the men who gave Petaluma its first start as a ship- ping point. In the Summer of 1851, Wiatt and Linus erected a small trading post on the bend of the. creek, a little above the bridge on Washing- ton street, while in October their example was followed by Baylis and Flogdell, who had moved from their position half-a-mile away, and con- structed a small store on the bank of the creek opposite the position now occupied by the Odd Fellows' hall. Keller, who had pre-empted the land in the previous year, about this time put up an edifice of a nondescript character, where he kept a ware-house, eating-house, store, and also a few bunks for sleeping accommodation. There was also constructed this Summer a ware-house by James M. Hudspeth, then, as now, a resident of Green valley, Analy township, who had thus early found the advantages possessed by the site as a place of shipment. This building stood at the foot of Wash- ington street, on the creek, just below the bridge. That autumn it was stored to its fullest capacity with potatoes, the proprietor at the same time cutting and baling upwards of a hundred tons of hay, in close proximity to the town, all of which he shipped to Sacramento, making the first export of produce of any magnitude from Sonoma by way of Petaluma. In this Fall there were then resident in the district the following families :The Sing- leys, Starkeys, Terrills, Samuels, Tustins, and Lewises, which were further augmented by the arrival of the Douglases and Hathaways, who came from Antioch, Contra Costa county, and having brought the frames of their houses with them, the elder Douglas erected his, where it stands to-day, a little above the Brooklyn Hotel, that of the Hathaways being constructed by Robert Douglas, Jr., on or near to the site of the Washington Hotel. These were the first dwelling houses raised in the city of Petaluma. Mr. Douglas now resides on a pleasant ranch near Freestone, in Bodega township.

As has been before remarked, the town-site had been already located by Mr. Keller. In the winter of 1851-2 the population of the embryo city increased considerably; a meeting of the settlers was therefore called, who requested Mr. Keller to lay out the plat of a town, guaranteeing him there and then the purchase of every other lot and at the same time promising that all his rights should be respected. The survey, which commenced at a

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point on Petaluma creek, between Prospect and Oak streets, running thence west to the westerly line of Liberty street, near Kent, then southerly along Liberty street to A, then on the northerly line of A and a continuation of that line north-easterly to Petaluma creek, the area being in the vicinity of forty acres, was effected by J. A. Brewster on January 3, 1852. It is said that Major Singley and Tom Lockwood carried the chain for this survey. Early in 1852 the new city commenced to show signs of considerable activity, a very fine store was established by W. D. Kent on the site now occupied by the photographic gallery of George Ross on the east side of Main street; he shortly after admitted into partnership a man named Smith, when the firm became Kent & Smith, and F. H. Coe purchasing into the business at a later date the establishment was known as that of Kent, Smith & Coe. There was also a grocery store kept by one Samuels on the corner of Main and Wash- ington streets. In this year "Tom & Dave" had an establishment for the entertainment of travelers, called the Pioneer Hotel, which may be said to have been the first hostelry started in Petaluma; it joined their building already mentioned. It is certain that the Douglas and Hathaway families kept boarders but no regular building for the accommodation and sole use of transient guests was extant until late in the year, for in the Fall, Samuel N. Terrill commenced the Petaluma House on ground now occupied by the Odd Fellows' hall, and Robert Douglas, the younger, the erection of the Amer- ican Hotel on the site of the present building of that name. The Petaluma House was the first in working order. In January, 1852, William Zartman and John Fritsch, with James F. Reed, commenced business as blacksmiths, building their forge on the place now occupied by Gilbert's cheap cash store. Reed afterwards lost his life on a voyage to the Eastern States on the ill- fated " Atlantic." Major Singley, the present agent of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad in this city, who located in August, 1851, on the west side of the creek, about half-a-mile above town, on land afterward occupied by Mr. Kerry, is of opinion that the first postmaster in Petaluma was a German named H. P. Hentzlemann, who had his office in a house which stood on the south-east corner of Main and Washington streets; but the weight of evidence goes to prove that W. D. Kent was the pioneer postmaster and that he distributed the mails from his own store. Kent was succeeded by Doctor Brown, who in turn gave place to Samuel N. Terrill .* Mail matter was transported from Benicia, Solano county, on horse-back, once a week, by way of Sonoma, Miller & Walker's store, now called Sebastopol, to Petaluma, thence to San Rafael, Marin county-a rather tortuous way of receiving news when compared with the swift, certain, and frequent transmission of correspondence which obtains to-day. The religious and instructive cares of the city had not, up to this period, received any especial care. Two wandering preachers named Gurnsey, who com-

" We have since learned that Garrett W. Keller was the first Postmaster. See page 131.

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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.

bined with the repairing of souls the occupation of a chair manufacturer, and Bateman, were wont to minister to the wants of the residents in this particular until the settlement of Mr. Hunter as pastor of the Methodist church, which stood on the site of the present city prison, his wife, noble woman, being the first to open a school for the education of the young, of whom there were now a few; in this laudable undertaking she was succeeded by A. B. Bowers, who taught in a building then occupying the position of the present magnificent brick edifice which would be an ornament to any city. The 4th of July, 1852, the National holiday, was celebrated by a grand ball which took place in the building wherein was situated the store of Kent, Smith & Coe, when one hundred and fifty guests from all parts of the country took part in the merry-making-the tickets on the occasion being ten dollars each. Here we have the first mention of the gaieties of a city life having taken hold. We can imagine with what keen excitement was the auspicious occasion looked forward to, for reunions of any kind in these early days were all but impossible; there were not the facilities which are found in places of more mature growth; the distances were too magnificent to permit of frequent intercourse between neighbors separated by twenty miles of country, entirely innocent of roads or bridges; men and maidens had little opportunity of meeting or becoming acquainted, is it therefore any wonder that dances were danced with a vim, the like of which has never been witnessed, or that songs were sung and stories told, healths drank and eternal friendships sworn, the like of which could never occur again-the oldest living residents never forget this evening when

"Soft love look'd love to eyes, which spake again, And all went merry as a marriage bell."

The first Justice of the Peace was M. G. Lewis, while of the lawyers there were William Churchman, Jackson Temple, and J. B. Southard, who suc- ceeded Judge E. W. Mckinstry on the bench of the Court of the Seventh Judicial District, a position which he occupied for several years. The first marriage in the district was that of Dr. August F. Heyermann, but this did not take place within the city; the first in these limits was that of Robert Douglas, Jr., to Miss Hannah Hathaway, which took place on the 31st day of December, 1852, before Samuel N. Terrill, Justice of the Peace. The next wedding was that of Alexander Woodworth. The first child born in Peta- luma was a girl, to Mr. and Mrs. R. Douglas, who did not survive but twelve days; while the first death was that of a man named Fraser, who was killed by falling off a wagon and being run over. He was buried in the square now known as the Plaza. The next to cross the dark river was also a transient guest ; he was putting up at the American Hotel and had visited the country in quest of health, but consumption, from which he suffered, carried him off, and he found a stranger's grave on the hill at the top of Wash- ington street ; shortly after these two, was also buried the infant girl men-

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tioned above. At a late date, the bones of these three were exhumed, and found a final resting place in the Oak-Hill Cemetery, where a Miss Smith was the first to be buried. The first doctor was A. F. Heyermann, who prac- tised occasionally; he was in turn succeeded by doctors McClure and Brown, the latter of whom had a small laboratory; while the first drug store was opened by S. C. Haydon. In this year the first livery stable was started by Charles Robinson, who ran a stage via Sebastopol, then known, as has been said, by the name of Miller & Walker's store, to Bodega; while another gen- eral store was opened by P. H. Newbill. At the end of 1852, the population was estimated to have been somewhere about twelve hundred in all.

The first stroke against the welfare of the young city was struck by Majors H. P. Hentzleman and Lewis, in the attempted establishment of a rival town on the east side of the creek, which was intended to rob Peta- luma of all its present and prospective glories. They named it the city of Petaluma. New Town, the place was called; the residents being situated within the precincts of the Vallejo Township-notice of it will be found in the history of that section. But to proceed: Major Lewis disposed of his interest in this settlement at San Francisco, to Colonel J. B. Huie, making it a sine qua non, however, that a steamer of a certain tonnage and draft should proceed thither. The " Red Jacket," afterwards rechristened " Kate Hayes," succeeded in this endeavor in November, 1852, under the command of Captain Van Pelt. She continued plying to that point during the Winter, the projectors of New Town, in the interval, doing their utmost to proclaim far and near that that was the head of navigation. A triumph so gained could be but short lived. The Petalumans paid a visit to this pioneer steam wonder ; much bantering was given and taken on the occasion ; the most persuasive eloquence of the visitors was put forth, to the end that their city was the true head of navigation. To prove the contrary, steam was got up, shriek after shriek was sent from the whistle in mocking derision. The " Red Jacket " started, she found plenty of water, arrived off the city of Petaluma without mishap, and thus the claims of New Town veritably van- ished in smoke. When the stranger in this year of grace 1879, inquires as to its locality, he is answered by a vague sweep of the head and the words over there. While on the subject of steamers, we would here mention that the second steamer to make regular trips on the Petaluma Creek was the " Sioc," which had been brought from the Sacramento river, where she ran as the "Jack Hayes." Andrew Henry, agent for Wells, Fargo & Co., was on her when she made her first trip up the creek. She continued on the route until September, 1853, her captain and part owner being for a time ex-Sheriff Latapie. The name of the vessel was changed after to the "Rein- (leer." The first steamboat to ply at stated times between Petaluma and San Francisco was the "E. Corning," the fare being six dollars. She was for a time under the command of Captain Charles M. Baxter, who after-

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wards took charge of the " Petaluma," a craft constructed expressly for this route.

At the time of Mr. Henry's arrival in the "Sioc," there were then in all about fifty houses in the city, situated principally between the streets now known as Washington on the north, B. on the south, with the creek as a frontage and back to Keller or thereabouts. The American Hotel was then " well up town." This was in September, 1853. In November, we are told there were two hotels, besides the three already named, viz: the City Hotel, which stood on the site of the present building of that name, and the Union Hotel, where it now stands on Main a little below English street. At this period the American was kept by Brown & Rexford, the City by Veeder, who had moved it hither from Vallejo, Solano county, the Petaluma House by Bassett, who was not long after succeeded by Van Doren & Cooper, and last though not least the Pioneer by "Tom & Dave."

In the years 1853, '54 and '55 the growth of the town was gradual but sure from the advantages possessed by her as a port of shipment, the settlers of the valleys to the north and south of it repaired hither to export their produce and lay in supplies; it was the only shipping outlet easy of access to thẻ San Francisco market for the crops of Sonoma and Mendocino counties; as the rapidly increasing population extended their ventures, the necessity for such a spot made itself felt; more ground was tilled, fruit trees planted and butter made, while the country was yet thiekly covered with splendid timber, all of which found its way to Petaluma; as her commerce became greater her capital increased, as capital increased labor became plentiful until she gained, early in her existence, the proud position among the thriving cities of California which she holds to-day.

In the year 1855 the first newspaper was started-The Petaluma Weekly Journal and Sonoma County Advertiser. The inaugural number was issued on Saturday, August 18, 1855, by Thomas L. Thompson, and is in all a most readable sheet. From its advertising columns we cull the following names, many of them being to-day "familiar in our mouths as household words:" Wm. D. Bliss, Wm. A, Cornwall, J. Chandler, I. G. Wickersham, Attorneys at Law, most of whom would appear to have been established on Main street. We find that the Petaluma Line of Packets running between Peta- luma, San Francisco, Sacramento and Stockton, consisting of the schooners "Petaluma," Captain Baylis; "Enterprise," Captain Rutherford; "Blue-Wing," Captain Cutter, and the sloops " Cleopatra," Captain Sullivan; " Star of the West," Captain Adams, and "Ned Beale," Captain Kelley, left for these ports daily, their agents being in this city A. J. Moses & Co., and at San Francisco Kittrell & Co. We note that Dr. W. D. Trinque was a surgeon dentist on Main street ; that Anthony G. Oakes, proprietor of the American Hotel, which had been thoroughly renovated was " prepared to extend the comforts of a Home and a Hearty Welcome to all who may favor him with a visit,"

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while there were the following attractions: "Table Supplied with all the Delicacies," " Lines of stages from all parts," as well as "Extensive Livery Stables;" and S. C. Haydon offered at his drug and book store such commodi- ties as Epsom salts and blank deeds, Cologne water and McGuffy's readers, hair oils and tooth-brushes, turpentine and the San Francisco and Atlantic newspapers and magazines.

Let us lightly glance at the resources of Petaluma at that date. The Journal in an early article tells us, that the growth of Petaluma has been rapid, but yet of a substantial character; and not withstanding the several successive failures of the crops of the adjacent country, the ruinous prices of agricultural productions, and the late monetary depression in this State, the prosperity of the town has been greatly enhanced, and its permanency fully secured within the past six months, by valuable improvements and judicious investment of capital. Petaluma is the depot and outlet for the whole farining and grazing interest of the immense tract of surrounding country ; and partic- ularly for that lying away to the north, including the rich lands of Russian river and its tributaries, and even extending to the fertile borders of Clear Lake.

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History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams, Part 30

Author: Alley, Bowen & Co. 4n Publication date: 1880 Publisher: San Francisco : Alley, Bowen & Co. Number of Pages: 1008

Author: Alley, Bowen & Co. 4n
Publication date: 1880
Publisher: San Francisco : Alley, Bowen & Co.
Number of Pages: 1008