USA > California > Sonoma County > History of Sonoma County : including its geology, topography, mountains, valleys, and streams > Part 3
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84
TIMBER-Redwood .- Over most of the agricultural counties of the State Sonoma has one marked advantage, that is the immense source of wealth in its timber. Commencing at Humboldt the great redwood timber-belt reaches down the coast for one hundred and fifty miles, terminating within the limits of Sonoma; from the Valhalla to the mouth of the Russian River is one continuous line of timber going back from the ocean for eight miles. The reader will observe by reference to the county chart that Russian river turns around the town of Healdsburg, and flowing west, after leaving the valley, enters the timber region. Fed as it is by the rich alluvial soil, on either bank of the stream, and watered by the annual overflow of its waters, the trees grow to a prodigious size, and are not to be surpassed anywhere on the Pacific Coast. They grow, in some cases, to a height of over three hundred and fifty feet, have a diameter of fifteen feet; a single tree has been known to produce sixty-five thousand feet of lumber worth at least one thousand dollars; the wood in the standing tree is valued at two dollars per thousand feet; one hundred and fifty thousand feet to the acre; six million feet on a forty-acre tract, is an average of good land. On the margin of the streams the finest timber would produce in the vicinity of eight hundred thousand feet to the acre, and the yield runs downward from that figure to twenty-five thousand feet to the acre.
The redwood is a creature of the fog. As has been said above, during the Summer months the trade winds set in along the northern shore of this county and dense fog banks arise some miles from the coast; this is driven inland later in the day; the great mass becomes sundered, and detached flakes, each chasing the other, are driven into the hollows, and among the trees, where they all accumulate, leaving the valley enveloped in dripping mist. The foliage of the redwood possesses the peculiar power of condensing
.
28
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
this mist and converting it into rain; the roots which sustain the mighty bole-often one hundred and fifty feet in height without lateral branches- are in this wise nourished during the long summer months when no rain falls. The fog wraps these forests in its fleecy mantle during the night; in the morning with the rising of the sun it disappears.
It will thus be seen that the redwood belongs essentially to the foggy coast regions. South of San Francisco the supply has been eut out, and as it grows nowhere else, neither north nor south, Sonoma, Mendocino,and Humboldt coun- ties may be said to have a monopoly of this wood, the first in commercial importance on the Pacific Coast. Oregon has it not; in Puget Sound with her endless forests, it is wanting; while, it is not to be found on either slope of the Sierra Nevada.
Redwood is a close grained timber. splits true, and is like Eastern cedar in the lightness of its color. It works beautifully, and has the merit of retaining its shape without warp or shrinkage, while its durability is unquestioned.
Hardwoods .- To be found among the redwoods, are the California laurel, a beautiful evergreen, the timber of which takes a high polish, and is exten- sively used as veneer; leaves and wood have a strong aromatic odor. The madrona is another striking tree of the California forests. The bark, which is of a bright red color, peels off at regular intervals, and exposes underneath the new growth of a bright pea-green tint; its wood is hard and employed principally for the manufacture of shoe-lasts, wooden stirrups and other articles.
The Oaks .--- The Chestnut oak is abundant in the redwood forests of Sonoma. The bark is rich in tannin; the trees are stripped and large quan- tities of the bark are shipped for tanning purposes.
The Live oak also grows in large quantities in Sonoma but has little value except for fuel.
The Black oak is found on all the hill lands in the county, and is the best wood obtainable for fuel.
The Burr oak is the largest and most common of the oaks. It is this tree with its long, drooping, wide-spread branches that gives such a charm to Californian scenery. They grow in clusters and are especially graceful.
29
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
THE SPRINGS AND MINES OF SONOMA COUNTY.
THE SPRINGS .- The Geysers .- Of all the noted places in Sonoma county, indeed on the Pacific coast, the most famous is The Geysers, which are loca- ted in the Mayacmas range of mountains which separate this from Lake and Napa. They are one thousand seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, placed among scenery which absolutely defies description. It is positively a most " uncanny " place.
These springs and their healing properties were long known to the Indi- ans, there being a jet still known as the Indian sweat-bath, where the rheu- matic patient was wont to be brought and laid upon a scaffold, or temporary grating, immediately over the spring, and steamed until cured or relieved by death from his sufferings.
On one occasion, in the month of April, 1847, William B. Elliott, men- tioned elsewhere as having a ranch on Mark West creek, was, in company with a son, on a hunting expedition. Tracking a bear to the summit of the opposite mountains, where they lost him, they observed smoke arising in such volumes that they mistook it for a large Indian rancherie. . After con- ning it for a space and seeing no signs of human life, they descended the mountain, and found on arriving on a flat plot of ground their further prog- ress barred by a huge grizzley, which the fearless hunters soon dispatched. On this level clearing the first house at the Geysers was erected by M. Levy, and was long known as the Old Homestead, and was remarkable for having on its site a wild grapevine measuring twelve inches in diameter. In the year 1854, Major Ewing built a cloth house on the position now occupied by the present hotel, where he was joined by Levy, who found the situation more eligible than his own, and shortly after a saw-mill was constructed, a portion of the hotel now in use being built from lumber sawed by it.
Colonel A. C. Godwin, now deceased, but then a merchant in Geyserville, a small town situated in Washington township, obtained an interest in the property shortly after its settlement, and from his genial manners and per- sonal magnetism, was the means of attracting many visitors to the spot.
We are indebted to Mr. Robert A. Thompson's interesting work on Sonoma county for the following information :-
" The first route to the springs was through Knight's valley to the foot of the mountain, in stages, then on horseback by a narrow trail over the moun- tain. William McDonald, still a resident of Knight's valley, acted as guide. Levy kept the hotel during Colonel Godwin's ownership; he was succeeded by Major Ewing, and Major Ewing by H. Utting. After Mr. Utting the
30
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
place changed hands nearly every year, and the hotel was kept successively by Coe & Baxter, Clark Foss, and F. H. Coe. In 1866 it was rented by Major Shafer, who kept it until 1870 ; he was succeeded by J. C. Susenbeth, who remained there three years. B. S. Hollingsworth was the lessee for the years 1874-5-6 and 7 ; he was succeeded in April of that year by W. For- syth, the present proprietor. The first register kept at the springs was in the year 1854, and there are but twenty names upon it. From that time on the number increased every year until 1875, when three thousand five hun- dred names were enrolled.
" The first wagon-road made to the Geysers was from Healdsburg, over what is called the Hog's Back ridge. On the 15th of May, 1861, R. C. Flournoy drove a double team and buggy over the new road, and to him belongs the eredit of taking the first wheeled vehicle of any kind to the Geyser springs. He was accompanied by a lady, and reached the hotel at eleven o'clock, P. M., without breaking a bolt. The main trail to the Gey- sers was over this road until 1869, when a toll-road was built from Knight's valley, and a stage line put on that route. In 1874, the toll-road from Cloverdale up Sulphur creek, was built, and opened the following season. Of all the roads to the Geysers, that from Healdsburg, over the Hog's Back, is the most interesting and beautiful. It follows the crest of the high ridge separating the waters of Big and Little Sulphur creeks, passing close under the shadow of Geyser peak, affording a view of the great Russian River val- ley and the sea beyond, unsurpassed anywhere in its breadth, variety, and beauty. There are other roads in to the springs from Lake county, and there is also a good trail from Geyserville."
As has been said above, in former days the route used to be by way of Foss' station, situated in a small, secluded valley-the beau-ideal of seques- tered loveliness. Thence it lay principally up hill for four miles, whence a descent was made to Little Pluton river, which was forded, and the ascent continued until the " upper station " was reached, six miles from Foss' and the same distance from the Geysers. From the Little Pluton to this point, the road lay through timber of various varieties,-oak, madrona, manzanita, and much undergrowth. The timber, however, was soon left, and in a few minutes longer the highest point on the road was reached, about three thou- sand feet above the ocean (Healdsburg is one hundred and twenty feet above the sea level). The most thrilling portion of the journey was then com- menced. Down the road went upon the Hog's Back, a narrow ridge, wind- ing hither and thither, up hill and down, for two miles, appearing almost impossible for horses to stand on the side of the hill, but still they would creep up with a slow and hardly perceptible motion. The summit of one hill gained, they would madly dash down another ; to the right, and within a foot, the brink of a precipice fearful to behold; to the left, a high rock, reaching up hundreds of feet. Now they dash around the hill, the leaders
31
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
trotting to the extreme outer edge of the road and apparently going over the brink, to whirl around just in the nick of time. Anon, there is a hill on the right and a steep gorge on the left, and then again a yawning gulf on either side, the ridge on which the road runs being in places not seven feet wide.
What a gorgeous panorama is there to be seen from the highest point of the road. In the immediate foreground are the steep mountain sides covered with a dense foliage of varied hues. From the depth of the gulches sturdy pines rear their lofty pinnacles until they seem almost within reach. South- ward spreads out the Russian River valley, interspersed with gardens and grain fields, and through its center, sparkling in the sun's rays, the river winds its tortuous way, concealed at times by the luxuriant growth of oaks and clinging vines upon its banks. Far beyond the valley the hills and mountains rise in graceful succession ; and farther, on the verge of the hori- zon, the coast range hems in the view, and is dimly visible in the soft, hazy atmosphere so peculiarly Californian.
A writer many years ago speaks of the famous " whip" of this route in these words :-
" A trip to the Geysers without Foss, the accommodating and world- renowned driver, who originated and owns the line between Calistoga and the Geysers is like the play of Hamlet with that melancholy young gentle- man left out. Not only is he an unequalled driver, but he is a man of genius and a philosopher. In person he stands over six feet two inches in his stockings, is as strong as a giant, has the voice of a tragedian, weighs two hundred and thirty pounds, and is as fine a specimen of muscular develop- ment and vigor as ever went forth from the hills of the Granite State.
" With a fresh team of six horses, and a load of appreciative passengers, Foss is in his glory. Alternately coaxing and encouraging his horses up the steepest acclivities, his eye sparkles at the top as he gathers the reins, care- fully places his foot on the brake, turns half round and looks over the coach to see that the passengers are all there, when 'crack' goes the whip, a shout to the horses, and away we go down the steep mountain side. Trees fly past like the wind; bushes dash angrily against the wheels; the ladies shut their eyes and grasp the arm of some male passenger ; and speed down the declivity with lightning rapidity, the horses on a live jump, and General Foss, whip in hand, cracking it about their heads to urge them on. The effect at first is anything but pleasant. At every lurch of the coach one feels an instinctive dread of being tossed high in air and landed far below in a gorge, or, perchance, spitted upon the top of a sharp pine. If a horse should stumble or misstep, or the tackle snap, away we should all go down the precipice. The angle of descent is exceedingly sharp, and down this declivity the horses are run at break-neck speed for two and a half miles, making thirty-five turns and some of them extra short ones."
32
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
The Geysers is a name given to springs scattered along the Pluton river for six miles above the hotel and two and a half below, but the principal ones of interest lie within half a mile of the hotel, across the river and up a narrow gorge, called the " Devil's Canon," which leads into Pluton river, perhaps fifty yards below the hotel. A guide being procured, and each being armed with a stout walking stick, we pass over the river and visit an iron spring, fifty yards in front of the hotel. Then the river Pluton is crossed by means of a narrow foot-bridge. The stream is here about thirty feet in width and full of large boulders. Passing the bath-house we see the "Eye spring," with its dark-colored water; next " Proserpine's Grotto," in the Devil's Cañon, where we find Epsom salts on the walls in crystals. We are now in the "Devil's machine shop," surrounded by infernal springs, bubbling and boiling with their ahun and iron solutions, among which is the " Devil's Ink." The ground is unbearably hot; the steam rushes out from the vent holes in the hill-sides and under foot. A feeling of awe and possibly of insecurity takes hold of the stranger. But on we must go, for the hot ground burns our feet. Alum springs abound, and here is nitre and putty. On the sides of the bank are carbonates of magnesia and various salts of iron. A few yards further up the canon is the greatest wonder of all-the " Witches' Caldron," a large cavity, six feet by eight, and four feet deep. It is full of a black, boiling liquid, containing iron, sulphur, and alum. Although continually boiling and foaming, very little of the fluid escapes. The "Devils Canopy" appears to the right, a projection from the bank, composed of stalactites of sulphur and iron. We are near the head of the canon and the "Steamboat Springs." These are not in the bottom of the gorge, but are elevated some twenty feet. Steam is continually escaping in jets, and on favorable occasions it ascends three hundred feet. We have now reached the head of the gorge with scorching feet, with a bottle of the Devil's ink, with putty and various specimens, but the end is not yet. From the hotel we have come north-northeast, and now we are directed by the guide to the east, leaving the Devil's Canon and going over the ridge to a pure stream of cold water, to " Lovers' Retreat," among the laurels, and still going east to the "White Sulphur Spring." Turning towards the hotel we soon find ourselves on "General Hooker's Lookout," opposite the Steam- boat Springs, and on the eastern bank of the canon. The view from this point, above, around, and below, is grand beyond description.
Perhaps seventy-five yards east of the Lookout is the Crater, and close to it is the " Devil's Oven," which is simply a hole in a small side-hill, out of which comes steam with a hissing noise. The "Devil's Teakettle " is a short distance cast of the Oven. We go to it and find a terrible whistling noise and sce an aperture similar to that of the Oven. In fact, they are both tea- kettles, but for the sake of giving a variety of kitchen utensils to His Satanic Majesty, the first steam-pot was called an oven. Within six feet of the
A Jempes
33
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
Teakettle is an alum spring, and within six feet of that is an iron spring. The Crater is a kind of wash-bowl for His Majesty, and is doubtless an · old witches' caldron, boiled dry. The ground under it is hollow and vibrating.
The round of wonders, within half a mile of the hotel, has now been com- pleted, except the Steam Bath, a quarter of a mile up Pluton Cañon. There are many other places of interest down the river, among them the Acid Bath, half a mile distant, and the Indian Bath, a mile below. There is a dry cañon near the Devil's Cañon and adjoining it, whose walls are com- posed of alum. The odors throughout the region of the Geysers are in some cases very unpleasant, but to the chemical student who has experimented with sulphuretted hydrogen they will appear less disagreeable than to others. Thus the circuit of a mile has been made, and we have seen the most won- derful laboratory in the universe.
Phenomena .- The causes which produce the phenomena of the Geysers are, of course, a subject of frequent discussion with visitors. A majority of scientists consider it "the chemical laboratory of the Almighty." They maintain that the steam and internal heat are produced by the antagonism of mineral substances in the earth, which, with the springs of water flowing through them, produce an effect similar to that of the wetting of unslacked lime.
This theory is generally accepted by chemists; but it will be very difficult to convince "outsiders" that all this ebullition and intense heat have not a common origin with that of volcanoes, differing only in degree. It seems to add strength to this theory that the adjacent mountain ranges show abund- ant evidence of ancient volcanic action.
For would-be visitors we once more retrace our steps: Spacious veran- dahs surround the hotel, which is replete with every comfort, and as a place of resort, it is equally adapted to the sick, the sad, the gay, the philosophic. From its windows we see to the north the wonderful canon already described, which, as a natural curiosity, can in no part of the world be excelled, and is only equalled in the volcanic development of Hecla in Iceland. The Witches' Caldron, the Steamboat Springs, and, the entire infernal appear- ance of the region, exceed all language to portray. The metallic hills, the brimstone, the hot river, and volcanic rocks, are draped, in many instances, in exquisite green ; grass, shrubs and trees grow and overhang seething caldrons. The roar, the steam, the groans, are unearthly. Scientific and hydrographical accounts have been written by abler pens, but to see is to be convinced that not a tithe of the wealth and power of these mystical Geysers and their surrounding metallic hills have yet been developed. "The compli- cated sublimity of this spot, and its uses, are attracting the attention of the world, and the rapid progress of material development linked with the matchless achievements of the past, attest that by the application of scien-
3
34
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
tific principles to great speculative ideas, they in time become practical facts, elevating our race into the knowledge of useful philosophy, and inspiring the loftiest conceptions of God's purpose toward man, teaching that even nature can be chained as a titanic servant under His Imperial dominion."
Skaggs' Springs .- These springs are situated at the head of Dry Creek valley, about eight miles west of the depot of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad at Geyserville, and are next in importance and popularity to the Geysers. The land upon which they are located was entered by Wil- liam Skaggs, A. Skaggs, and William and John Knight, as a grazing ranch, in 1856, but in the following Spring, A. Skaggs purchased the interest of his partners and became the sole proprietor.
Here there are a number of hot sulphur springs of pleasant temperature for bathing, while there is also a cold soda and iron spring, which proves an excellent tonic for invalids; the principal attractions of the place, however, are its positively luxurious baths.
Another and pleasant manner of reaching the springs is from Healdsburg, only fourteen miles distant. The road runs for eleven miles along the valley of Dry Creek, a tributary of Russian river, and may be considered a part of that justly celebrated valley ; thence three miles into the Coast Range of mountains, winding along the valley of Hot Springs creek, a rapid, rock- fretted stream, whose dark waters nestle closely under the tall cliffs, which shut out the sunlight, except for a few hours at mid-day, without possible chance of exit, except at this celebrated watering place. Realizing that the
usy world is left behind, you are awe-inspired, and the feeling creeps over you that, perhaps, this is " the bourne from whence no traveller returns." "There are here a few acres of tolerable level, fertile land; the rest of the country is pretty slanting; in fact up edge-ways, and they pasture goats on both sides of it. There are plenty of deer in the vicinity, but it is very dan- gerous hunting them; if you should kill one it would be liable to fall on your head," is the account one writer gives of its charms.
In the year 1860 Skaggs' first became a regular resort, and from that date it gained in popularity, and the number of its visitors increased until 1864, when its extending repute caused the proprietors to expend a considerable suin of money in making improvements so as to increase its attractiveness. Building was at once commenced, and the new house was opened in 1864 by A. Skaggs ; in 1867 he leased the springs, but in the following year, resumed the reigns of office. During the next two years the establishment was rented by John Leonard, and in 1871 by B. F. Tucker ; in 1872-73 it was kept by Perry Emmerson, since when they have been under the control of the proprietor himself, who has expended a large sum of money upon the grounds and buildings. In the hotel and cozy cottages which surround it,
35
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA.
there is accommodation for at least three hundred guests, while for their delectation there are elegant drives and walks throughout the surrounding grounds and conterminous country.
1204153
Litton Springs .- This resort is located four miles from Healdsburg, on the line of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad, and is the prop- erty of Captain Litton, who improved the place in 1875 at an expense of eighty thousand dollars. There is a handsome hotel and a number of conven- ient and comfortable cottages. The water is an agreeable seltzer, which is bottled and sold in considerable quantities. In late years Litton Springs has become a fashionable place of summer resort.
The Mark West Springs .- These springs are beautifully located in a bend of the Mark West creek, which forms a romantic dell surrounded by hills densely covered with chapparal. These hills during the season are exceptionally beautiful. The chief attraction of these springs is its sulphur bath. They are owned by Judge A. P. Overton, of Santa Rosa, their prox- imity to which place making them a favorite and fashionable watering place.
White Sulphur Springs .- These springs are situated two miles and a half from Santa Rosa, under the Cotate peak, which overlooks the city. They are owned by John Taylor. The place is well improved; the water holds in solution, sulphur, soda, magnesia, and iron, and is considered very healing for many of the ills that flesh is heir to. There are also a number of well-fitted bath-rooms supplied with hot and cold mineral water. It is a favorite drive from Santa Rosa to the springs, while they are largely patron- ized by many from abroad.
THE MINES .- We reproduce in this place from Mr. Thompson's work the following record of the mining interests in Sonoma county :-
As early as 1852 there were reported discoveries of gold on Russian river. One of the Kelseys led a prospecting party as far as Eel river. This party discovered and named Eden valley, and Round valley, in Mendocino county, then a part of Sonoma. They, too, first crossed and gave the name Sanhe- drin to the grand mountain which overlooks all the beautiful valleys of Mendocino. They met with no great success, and returned, but some mem- bers of the party still live in that part of Mendocino county, then first seen by white men. In 1854 reports of gold discoveries on Russian river were revived, but soon died out.
After the discovery and occupation of Geyser springs, the abundant indi- cations of cinnabar in the neighborhood attracted attention. The price of quicksilver at the time was low,-fifty cents per pound; the cost of reduction was great, and the Almaden mine was producing a supply adequate to the demand. For these reasons no special attention was paid to the indications of mercury everywhere visible on the surface near the Geysers.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.