USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > San Francisco, a history of the Pacific coast metropolis, Volume I > Part 24
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It is not probable that the knowledge that California occasionally experiences geological disturbances would have stayed the movement from the farms of the southwest and south to the coast, which set in before the discovery of gold and it is absolutely certain that it would have had no deterring influence upon the adven- turous men who flocked to the new El Dorado from all parts of the world as soon as the news of the find was heard. They were made of the stuff that would seek gold on the rim of an active crater. Seismic convulsions had less terror for them than the possibility that they might be compelled to reproach themselves with pov- erty if they neglected the chance to mend their fortunes which the discovery seemed to offer.
But while it is certain that men would have rushed to California with as little fear of consequences as the man who plants a vineyard on the slopes of Vesuvius, it is not impossible that the manifestations may have played some part in shaping the characters of those who encountered them without an accumulation of pre- vious experience calculated to give them confidence of the kind which persuades the sailor who goes down to the sea in ships that his vocation is less hazardous than that of the landsman who is constantly subjected to unexpected dangers far more numerous than those who brave the deep have to contend with.
Seismic Disturbances
The Gold Hunters
Balancing of Chances
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The pioneer may not have felt like assuming the role of Ajax defying the lightning, but he promptly began to weigh advantages and disadvantages and to balance them against each other and the result was an early conclusion that the former so greatly exceeded the latter that it was hardly worth while to borrow trouble. The processes of mind by which the conclusion was reached were not those of the sort suggesting indifference; they were efforts in which pure reason playcd an important part, and they were based on observations which were proba- bly more trustworthy than those of the insurance actuary who calculates the chances of life.
The Pioneer and the Temblor
It was not likely that men who considered earthquakes from the standpoint of the pioneer would ever become victims of superstition. They may not have elabo- rated seismic theories as highly as they have been during recent years but they were under no illusions concerning the origin of earthquakes and would have laughed at the suggestion that the agency which produced them was supernatural. They may have believed that Nature had its mysteries, but they were ready to pit against them the law of chance. If it proved adverse to them they felt they would be able to repair the damage inflicted by the exercise of energy aided by wit and ingenuity.
A Verifled Prediction
A spirit of this sort, which we find expressed in some comments on the subject in the "Annals," was generally prevalent. The writer remarked that almost every year slight shocks and occasionally smarter ones had been felt, and he specu- lated on what might happen to "the huge granite and brick palaces of four, five and six stories" if a great shock occurred, but he was sure that if they came down with a prodigious crash or if even half of the town should be half destroyed "like another Quito or Carracas" the damage would "speedily be remedied by the indomi- table energy and persevering character" of its American builders.
Italy as an Example
Having delivered himself of this prediction, which was more than verified in 1906, the annalist goes on to tell why earthquakes could have no discouraging results and pointed out that Italy, although it had endured and emerged from many calamities of that sort, had never impressed men as an undesirable place to live in, but to the contrary had always proved a powerful magnet to draw people from all parts of the world to enjoy its varied attractions.
Precautions in Building
There were no serious shocks experienced in San Francisco between 1839 and 1854 and for many years after the latter date the solidity of the construction of the "huge granite and brick palaces" was not tested. Perhaps it was not altogether fortunate that the test was deferred for so many years. Had it come earlier, when the City was smaller and less populous a lesson might have been learned which would have tended to minimize the disaster when it finally came. It is advisable to qualify with the word "perhaps," for there is no evidence that the people of San Francisco, at any time prior to 1906, were impressed by the danger of covering large areas with inflammable wooden structures. Indeed when the subject of seis- mic disturbances was connected with that of construction it was usual to assume that the safest buildings in an earthquake country are those built of wood.
There was undoubtedly a decided disinclination to discuss the subject of earth- quake in the early days, but it was by no means due to fear or to apprehension of injurious results to property from such disturbances. It was owing wholly to the feeling that those who were unacquainted with seismic phenomena would be sure to magnify the danger and thus, by causing the country to be misunderstood, im-
Advantages Outweigh Disadvantages
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pede the settlement of the state. The desire to see this accomplished was general, and with many amounted to something like a passion. It began to assert itself as soon as the feeling that "home" was the region east of the Rocky Mountains weak- ened, and when those who had merely come for gold made up their minds that the state was a good place in which to abide.
When this stage was reached the Californian began to count up the advantages possessed by California over the older states of the Union, and he found so many to enumerate that he felt a natural reluctance to spoil the picture by inserting in it anything that would detract from his claim that it was "the land of the blest." He did not wish to be forced to explain or to contrast. He deemed it wiser and easier to pass over the matter than to attempt to show cyclones are infinitely more destructive than earthquakes, that more people are killed by excessive heat and cold every year than are taken off in a century by temblors in California. In short, he believed that his new home came as near to realizing the idea of an earthly paradise as possible, and he was not disposed to weaken his belief by dwelling on possibilities that he chose to consider remote.
This reluctance extended down to a very late period, as periods are measured in California. In a history of the state, written in the early Eighties, the subject of earthquakes is scantily treated. Several of those recorded were enumerated by the author, but the barest facts only were related, and no attempt whatever was made to study the phenomena; perhaps because of the absence of data, but more probably for the reason above mentioned, and the additional one that as nothing could be done to avert them there was little benefit to be derived from giving much thought to them.
In marked contrast to this avoidance was the very pronounced disposition to expatiate on the charms of the climate. Long before the American occupation travelers had dwelt in glowing terms on the equable temperature of California. Dana, Morrell, Robertson and others had told how over a great part of the long stretch from San Francisco to San Diego snow never fell; and navigators who had visited every country said there was no place that surpassed in delightfulness this neglected part of the world. But it was reserved for the pioneers to appraise the climate at its real worth. Their valuation of this physical feature was never un- der the mark, but it never was made on a strictly commercial basis as in later years when it began to be perceived that sunshine could be made as valuable an asset as an unfailing gold mine.
The account given to Eastern people of the resources and attractions of the country rarely omitted mention of the climatic features, which distinguished Cali- fornia so greatly from the states on the Atlantic seaboard, and those of the Middle West and Southwest, which had contributed a large proportion of the immigrants. These descriptions were not always made in the language of the meteorologist, and they often lacked exactness, but on the whole they were sufficiently accurate to convey a correct impression if they had been attentively considered. Their principal interest for us now consists in the fact that they refute the assumption which frequently finds expression, that the climate of California is changing.
The records show the same uncertainties regarding the weather as those ex- perienced in the twentieth century. There were alternations of wet and dry sea- sons in the Fifties just as there are at present, and the fluctuations in the volume of precipitation were as great then as now. There was one mistake made by the
Californian Advantages
Earthquake Subject Avoided
Charms of California Climate
California Climate Unchanged
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pioneers in their descriptions that has resulted in a misconception, which explana- tions seem powerless to correct. They were accustomed to speaking of the rainy and the dry season, thus conveying the idea that at one period of the year there is incessant rainfall, while during the other there is no precipitation at all. This misstates the fact. If they had spoken of "the season when it rains" instead of "the rainy season," and had added that in certain months it scarcely rains at all, it is possible that the very common error that California is alternately drenched and desiccated would not be made.
Inexact Weather Records
It may be said in defense of the inexactness of the early reporters of weather conditions in California that there was a series of winters after that of 1850-51, in which the rainfall was copious, ranging in San Francisco from 18.55 inches in 1851-52 to 35.26 in the following year, and not falling below the first named quan- tity in any year until 1862-63, when there was something like a repetition of the exceedingly dry season of 1850-51, when the precipitation was only 7.42 inches. Ten years of such experience would naturally suggest the division into rainy and dry seasons, but the terms, when not qualified by the information that the rains are frequently punctuated by intervals of cloudless weather, naturally convey the false impression that Californians constantly seek to remove.
Many Brands of Climate
The climate of California can be best comprehended by actual experience, which must be extensive, for the area of the state is great, stretching through many de- . grees of latitude, and having a longitudinal breadth which, while not great, has two ranges of mountains running through it, whose elevations result in producing climatic conditions in parts closely resembling those of the older states of the Union. In fact there are many sorts of climate in California and they are not determined by latitude or longitude, but by physical peculiarities, which produce striking varia- tions that prevent a description that accurately fits one locality being correctly applied to another section only a few miles distant.
Climate of San Francisco
The climate of San Francisco enjoys the distinction of differing from that of most other parts of the state. It has peculiarities which cause it to be misunder- stood by the casual visitor. These peculiarities can be best understood by attentive study of the records. Before the discovery of gold several pioneers appreciated the value of careful observation, and as a result the professional meteorologists have data extending back fully sixty years. Among the careful citizens who engaged in this work were Dr. G. H. Gibbons, Dr. T. M. Logan and Thomas Tennant, and from their tables the present weather bureau officials have been able to extract in- formation which has greatly assisted them in their important duties.
Weather Bureau Records
The records of the weather bureau only date back to February 2, 1871, but as its operations deal with the past and the future as much as with the present, its accounts of climate conditions are more dependable than those made by empirical observers, whose observations only extend over limited periods. This being the case it will be wise to disregard the exactions of chronological presentation in order that a comprehensive idea of the conditions existing in the past and which are likely to endure may be gained by the reader. Such a view may be derived from the data specially prepared for this history by Professor A. G. McAdie, the head of the weather bureau in San Francisco in 1912, and during many years prior to that date.
In order to understand the climatic peculiarities of San Francisco it is neces- sary to give consideration to the general climatic conditions of the Pacific coast,
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which are controlled by four factors. The first of these is the location of the areas of high and low pressures, which within recent years have been known as the great centers of atmospheric action. These have been carefully observed and the meteorologist is aware of certain conditions corresponding with the departures of those centers of action from their normal location. The second factor in deter- mining the climate of California is the prevailing drift of the surface air from west to east in temperate latitudes. The west, northwest winds so characteristic of the California coast north of Point Conception, have often been miscalled the trades, which, properly speaking, are the northeast and southeast winds of lower latitudes. The correct designation of the California coast winds is "prevailing westerlies."
Much has been written about the influence of the Japan current in controlling the temperature, but as a matter of fact it plays a small part in moderating cli- matic conditions. The Japan and Bering sea currents have their greatest strength at the end of winter, or in the early spring, while for the equatorial current the conditions are reversed. Coming from the south the equatorial current is most marked in the end of summer or early in the fall.
A third factor is the proximity of the Pacific ocean, the great natural conser- vator of heat. Both because of the great mass of water with its high specific heat, and the water vapor carried by the prevailing wind, the range of temperature is small along the coast from Puget Sound to San Diego bay. It is because of this blanket of vapor that the isotherms run nearly north and south instead of east and west as they do in other parts of the United States. Topography is the fourth factor. The state has an extremely diversified surface. In one county, Inyo, is situated Death valley, wherein lies the lowest land in the United States, some 273 feet below sea level. Seventy-five miles west of this locality is the east- ern range of the great Western Divide. The high Sierra culminates in this sec- tion. Mount Whitney, the highest point in the United States (excluding Alaska), has an elevation of 14,502 feet above sea level. On the other hand near the north- ern part of the state, where the coast range and the Sierra come together, we find Shasta 14,380 feet. Along the coast line there are several remarkable bays, and within short distances marked differences in the surface air drainage exist, and finally, perhaps, the greatest of the natural features is the extensive inland valley of California.
Within the limits described the highest temperature in the United States occurs. The shade temperatures of the Colorado desert frequently reach 130° F., while the most noticeable climatic features of the coast are the moderate temperatures, fre- quent fogs and high winds. The latter, however, rarely attain a high velocity ; their continuance during the season of the year when the atmosphere is usually undisturbed in sections is what produces the unusual summer climate of San Fran- cisco.
The weather bureau has seen fit to comment on the difficulties which beset the stranger in his endeavor to understand the climatic conditions existing in San Fran- cisco and furnishes this explanation, which contains facts that even residents who have lived in the City for some time are apt to overlook unless specially observant. Professor McAdie says: "The climate of San Francisco is so unusual that it has attracted universal attention. When a native of that city is asked which is the coldest month he is apt to say that July is. If asked which is the warmest month
The Japanese Current
Influence of Pacific Ocean
Highest Temperature
Climatic Peculiarities Misunderstood
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he may say December. His confusion arises from the comparatively small range of temperature. The mean annual is 56°. May and November have practically the same temperature, and are about ten degrees warmer than the mean. The warmest month is September, when the temperature rises to 61°, and the coldest is January, when the mean is slightly above 50°. The highest temperature re- corded in San Francisco was on September 8, 1904, when 101° was observed, and the lowest 29º on January 15, 1888. The next warmest day was June 29, 1891, when the temperature reached 100°. Temperatures above 90° occur very rarely. Warm days are most likely in September and October. A warm period seldom exceeds three days, and as a rule is brought to a close by strong and dense fog and temperature ranging from 50° to 55°."
Heat Without Discomfort
These observations may be supplemented by the statement that the 101° re- corded on the 8th of September, 1904, did not prevent the Knights Templar marching in procession, enveloped in their black velvet cloaks, on the occasion of their triennial gathering in that year; nor did the lofty flight of the mercury cause any interruption of ordinary avocations. There were no strokes, although the Knights marched in the blazing sun along an unshaded street; nor were there any prostrations. The explanation of this extraordinary exemption is the total absence of humidity, which is so marked a feature of California heat and makes it endurable even when it is uncomfortable.
Rarity of Snow Falls
Snow falls so rarely in San Francisco that when it does the occurrence attains the dignity of an unusual if not an historical event. The heaviest snowfall ever recorded in San Francisco was that of December, 1882, when over three inches fell. In February, 1887, there was another fall, the quantity being about the same in the lower levels of the City, but a depth of fully seven inches was measured in some places. On the 20th of January, 1854, the annalist of San Francisco records that ice an inch thick was formed in the streets, and that within doors water in pitchers was generally frozen. At two P. M. icicles hung from the roofs of houses in the City, on which the sun had been shining all day. Small ponds in the vicinity were frozen over and there was excellent skating in the mission. The weather was so extraordinary that the native Californians declared that the Yan- kees had bewitched the climate. It may be added that there is no record of any repetition of the phenomenal occurrences mentioned since 1854.
Vital Statistics Defective
The pioneers were convinced that the climate of San Francisco was conducive to health and the general conditions supported their view. There are, however. no vital statistics available, and if they existed they would have small comparative value because of the peculiar composition of the population, in which males of an age which offers resistance to disease largely predominated. Inferences may, how- ever, be drawn from current jokes, which, under the circumstances, are perhaps as reliable as mortality tables. One of these was to the effect that a man had to be killed to start a grave yard.
Few Visitations
The only serious visitation to which the City was subjected was in 1852. In the fall of that year there were numerous cases of cholera, but the disease's rav- ages were not nearly so great as in other places in the United States. The pio- neers were under no illusion regarding the cause. The utter disregard of sanitary precautions, and the rapid extension of the City into the waters of the bay were held responsible for the trouble, and the authorities were roundly denounced for
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their failure to perform the duty of compelling cleanliness; but it does not appear that any disposition existed to provide funds for that purpose.
The seismic and climatic phenomena described above may have had some influ- ence in shaping the character of the community in the early Fifties, but it would have been difficult to establish the fact, and it would have been equally troublesome to trace a connection between the other physical peculiarities which theorists as- sume play an important part in moulding the dispositions of a people and deter- mining whether they shall be indolent or industrious. There is no proof that lofty mountains and wide spaces were awesome, and that their proximity had a deterent effect on energy. If the pioneers gave them much thought it was not of the kind calculated to breed superstition, for, from the beginning, those who did not admire the grandeur of California mountains, and the beauty of its scenery, devoted themselves to the task of bending Nature to their own purposes.
Only as the latter were affected can it be said that Nature had much to do with California temperament, or the creation of that which a later generation, with the poetic instinct high developed, has been pleased to call "atmosphere." The phys- ical peculiarities of California influenced the population indirectly, but the operat- ing cause was usually economic. In no wise was it traceable to fear or a feeling of insecurity. The general attitude toward natural phenomena of a disturbing kind was one of careless indifference, and sometimes it was even jocular, as was the case when Bret Harte wrote his condensed novel in 1867, in which he pictured the total destruction of San Francisco in a fashion that amused the residents of the City more than it did outsiders, because the latter could not understand the subtle allusions to the aspirations of a neighboring city.
The pioneers of 1849-56 would have enjoyed the paragraph referred to quite as much as the people of San Francisco did ten or eleven years later, although Oakland had as yet made no progress towards urban greatness. They would have accepted it in the same spirit that they did the more seriously expressed conviction of the annalist, that the indomitable American spirit would rise superior to any untoward manifestations of Nature, because they were matter-of-fact men trained by experience to count chances, which they did with deliberation, and having done so they were firmly convinced that Nature's smiles so greatly outnumbered its frowns in California that it would be idle to take the latter seriously.
These practical men were more disposed to think of rivers and mountains and great plains from the standpoint of possible utilization, and gave only a passing thought to geological phenomena, and that usually was confined to speculation concerning the part they played in assisting man to secure the much desired pre- cious metals, and in fashioning the water courses, which might be made to bear to the mart they were establishing the products of the region they drained. They were prosaic, a fact which stirring events have not been able to obscure. They looked at everything from the standpoint of utility.
The Sierra Nevada on the east and the Coast range on the west were interest- ing to them because they were the mountains inclosing a great plain, which those gifted with the ability to peer into the future realized would one day become a vast agricultural region. It cannot be said that this perception was very general in the Fifties. To the contrary, there was a very prevalent belief which was re- tained during nearly a generation, that what is now recognized as the greatest body of fertile land in California, and perhaps in the whole world, was chiefly desert.
Climate not Conducive to Indolence
Californian Tempera- ment
Nature's Smiles and Frowns
The Practical Pioneer
Peering the Future
into
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There are traces, however, of the fact that there were far-seeing men who re- alized that the Sacramento and the San Joaquin valleys inclosed by the Sierra and Coast range were destined to be something else than mere pasturing grounds for herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, and business acumen very early divined that the region we now know as the Great valley, a plain some 400 miles long and from fifty to sixty miles in width, almost unbroken throughout its length and breadth except in the northern half, where its even surface is varied by the Marysville Buttes, would one day be the chief contributor to the commercial greatness of the port of San Francisco.
Navigable Rivers
It was appreciation of this fact that caused a lively interest to be taken in the rivers which drained this great plain. The Sacramento in the northern half, and the San Joaquin in the southern half of the enormous valley, it was thought would develop in their vicinity a large quantity of agricultural land, the products of which would be borne on their waters to the Bay of San Francisco, into which they discharged, and to the port of that name, whence they would be sent to all parts of the world. As these two rivers are the only navigable streams in California, and as in the period when the development of the resources of the state began in earnest, water transportation still held its place in the esteem of men as the most feasible and cheapest way of moving products, it is not surprising that the im- portance attached to them was very great.
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