USA > Massachusetts > History of the Connecticut Valley in Massachusetts, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Vol. I > Part 133
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The town is beautifully situated upon the eastern slope of the Green Mountain range. The climate is mild and healthy. The surface of the town is diversified, forming in many places landscapes of great beauty, rising at some points into grandeur and sublimity. Here are cataracts tumbling through deep glens ; hills interspersed with pleasant valleys; towering heights, with wild ravines, all combining to delight the eye and kindle the enthusiasm of a lover of nature. The general slope of the surface is south and west, and the whole town is drained by Mill River and its tributaries.
The main valley lies nearly in the centre of the town from the north line to the village of Williamsburg. It then defferts to the cast, entering the town of Northampton below Hayden-
ville. From the west five branches flow through transverse valleys, dividing that portion of the town into separate parts, some of them tracts of lofty altitude, and others of lower ele- vation with broken surfaces. Three of these branches have special names,-Mill Brook, Meekins' Brook, and Unquomonk Brook. From the east there is one tributary of Mill River, formed of Potash Brook and "Joe Wright's" Brook. This flows nearly south, uniting with the main stream beyond its eastern bend. There is another branch of Mill River, known as Beaver Brook, rising in the east part of this town, and en- tering the territory of Northampton before uniting with the main stream. This system of streams renders the town noted for its valuable water-power; particularly was it so in the early years, when the streams were of greater volume than they are since the forests have been cleared.
A large number of separate elevations abound, and several of them have loeal names, as High Ridge and Walnut Hill in the northeast ; Davis Hill, Shingle Hill, and Horse Mountain in the southeast; Merritt's Hill, Walnut Hill No, 2, Walcott Hill along the western boundary ; Scott's Hill, Petticoat Hill, Unquomunk Ilill, and Miller's Hill in the south.
Mill River, rising north and west in Goshen, Conway, and Ashfield, collects the waters of an extensive region, and fur- nishes a chain of water-power more than twelve miles long. The land was originally covered with a forest of heavy tim- ber,-chestnut, hickory, walnut, oak, pine, maple, beeeh, cherry, and sycamore. There were also wild plums and grapes in considerable abundance.
The peak of the High Ridge has an altitude of 1480 feet, and was made a signal-station in the trigonometrical survey
405
HISTORY OF HAMPSHIRE COUNTY.
of the State. From the heights in the north nearly the whole valley of the Connectieut in Massachusetts may be seen, including Mount Tom, Mount Ilolyoke, and a wide range of other hills and mountain-slopes,-a view of more than seventy miles in extent.
From the old Johnson homestead, on Walnut Hill, more than twenty churches are visible, and the general scene is one of surpassing beauty.
EARLY SETTLEMENTS.
The first settlement of Williamsburg was made by John Miller, of Northampton, about the year 1735. A log house was built on the hill northwest of the present village of Ilay- denville. It stood very near the present residence of John Miller, a grandson of the pioneer. He had become acquainted with this country in the hunting excursions for which he was famous. He had trapped beaver along the creek which bears that name. He purchased a traet of 900 acres at $1 per aere. This land extended south to the Northampton line, north to Skinnerville, west to South Street, and east far enough to embrace nearly the present village of Haydenville. The traet was heavily timbered. Mr. Miller was a powerful man physi- cally, capable of severe toil and great endurance. Out there in the forest he must have been able for many years to join with Alexander Selkirk in singing, " I am monarch of all I survey." According to previous writers, it was seventeen years before his first neighbor, Capt. Samuel Fairfield, moved in and settled upon the present Delevan place. With his habits as a hunter, Mr. Miller must have enjoyed the location, unless perehanee the danger from the Indians, who were a continual source of alarm through all these towns for twenty years later, may have occasionally disturbed him. Game was all around him, and in great variety. Deer, bears, wolves, catamounts, and wild turkeys roamed the forest in abundance. The smaller tribes of wild game also abounded, and the streams are said to have been literally alive with the luscious trout waiting to furnish a dinner for the daintiest epieure. Numer- ous exploits of Mr. Miller in hunting are related. On one occasion he proposed to a Mr. Day, who was burning a coal- pit near him, to go out hunting. Mr. Day declined, and Mr. Miller went alone. He soon found a splendid buck, and shot him. Going up to secure his prize he found another buek caught, by his horns being entangled with those of the one shot. Taking out their hearts, he carried them baek and exhibited them to the astonished coal-burner. Mr. Day ex- claimed, " The old boy ! I am sorry you got either one."
Mr. Miller kept from nine to twelve traps set for wild animals. At one time he had several about the eareass of a horse, near the residence now of Robert Damon, on South Street. Several traps were carried away by the animals, and, following their trail, he found a large eatamount perched on a tree, with two of the missing traps attached to his legs, and also another catamount with one of its feet in another of the traps. He shot them, securing both the game and the traps. . There was then a bounty of $7 a head on these animals.
About 1745-50, perhaps earlier, there was opened from Northampton to Pittsfield the old road, alluded to in other town histories, passing through Williamsburg. This road was the stage route of later years, though that finally went by way of Roberts Meadow to Chesterfield.
In 1752, Samuel Fairfield moved out to the neighborhood of Mr. Miller and opened a tavern ; this was to accommodate the travelers that were beginning to go over this route. We are obliged to suppose so, for with only Fairfield and Miller there would be no pressing neighborhood necessity for a tavern.
This account locates Fairfield in Williamsburg nearly twenty years before the town was incorporated. He was a nephew of John Miller, and is supposed to have lived in the family of the latter for some years prior to 1752.
Capt. Fairfield was prominent in all the early town affairs,
moderator of the first town-meeting, and chosen to many im- portant offiees. His advice was relied upon largely by the in- coming settlers. His farm was a part of the original Miller traet.
Descendants of both these pioneer families are still residing in town and upon the land of their ancestors,-five generations upon the same soil. The John Miller farm of 1879 was the John Miller farm of 1735, one hundred and forty-four years ago, and is still one of the best in town.
It is not easy to trace the other early settlers in exaet ehro- nological order. It is elaimed by citizens residing in the north part of the town that there were locations in that seetion some years previous to these dates, but considerable inquiry has failed to verify this eonelusion to any great extent. The general theory is that the danger of Indian attack was too great to render settlement safe anywhere in these " far-away" places until the surrender of Quebec, in 1759.
Admitting the above account of Miller and Fairfield, it is evident they risked the dangers and were not molested, and so it may be possible others did somewhere upon the present ter- ritory of Williamsburg.
The following is the usual story of early settlement :
Williamsburg being nearly the same as the " addition" which was obtained of the General Court by the town of llat- field, in 1695, its general settlement was first made from that town. Persons owning land in the " addition" began to clear up the forest, commeneing labor without moving, and then in a few years located with their families.
Other settlers were from Northampton, only eight miles dis- tant. Still others were from Braintree and Martha's Vine- yard ; others were from Sunderland and from Hadley.
In the earliest attempts of the Ilatfield men to settle the " addition," they were compelled to go in parties of five to fifteen or twenty armed for defense. Few ventured to settle there permanently until after peace was secured by the sur- render of Quebee, in 1759; and even then broken bands of Indians still roamed up and down the Connecticut Valley, rendering lonely, isolated settlements unsafe. For six years or more after the general occupation of Williamsburg, most of the men returned every night to their families.
The following statement gives the places from which the various families came to Williamsburg :
From Northampton were the Pomeroys, Dwights, Fairfields, Millers, Clevelands, and Clarks. From Belchertown the llan- nums. From Martha's Vineyard, the Cleghorns, the Mayhews, Stewards, Bartletts, and many others. From Braintree and the old Plymouth colony, the Haydens, the Thayers and Bradfords. From Hatfield, the Williams family, the Hubbards, the Bod- mans, the Warners, the Graves, the Hills. From southeastern Massachusetts and eastern, the Hydes, the Coffins, the Allens, the Butlers, the Washburns. From London, or Lancaster, the Nash family. From Sunderland, a portion of the Ilub- bards. From Sunsbury, Conn., the Littles, and Joseph Strong. From Rehoboth, the Suddens, and Simeon Strong. From New Hampshire, the Starks. From Wellington, Conn., the Johnson family. The general period of settlement was from 1760 to 1771, the distriet being incorporated at the latter date.
The early settlers of Williamsburg located on the higher points of land. Thus the population first eentred on Meeting- House Hill and Petticoat Hill. At one time the school dis- trict which comprised the latter place was the most populous of any in town, and the idea was seriously entertained of loeating the meeting-house there. Both of these localities, early rivals, are now the most sparsely settled of any in town. The effeets of trade and manufactures have wholly reversed the original tide of settlement. The site of the present eentral village was formerly a swamp, covered with hemlock-trees and alder- bushes. When a settlement sprang up at this point, it was at first known, somewhat in derision, as the " city."
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HISTORY OF THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY.
The story of early settlement is intensely interesting, but its minute details of privation and suffering ean only appear in a brief form in this printed volume. There is everywhere in this valley a vast amount of traditional family history. The descendants are still here of the men who conquered not only the hardships of the forest, but the dangers of a wily Indian foe ; who at Louisburg and Quebec wrested from France the empire of the St. Lawrence and transferred it to the English crown; who, later still, calmly threw off the yoke of British dominion and established the free commonwealth of Massa- chusetts.
The following catalogue of early settlers is based upon the assessment-roll of 1772, but includes a few other names, and in some instances those of later settlements : John Burroughs, homestead in the north part of the town. James Bangs, homestead the present place owned by Wm. Skinner at what was the village of Skinnerville; he was a carpenter. Silas Billings, homestead the present place of Prescott Williams. Simeon Burroughs, in the north part of the town. Thomas Beebe, homestead half a mile north of Prescott Williams, on Walnut Ilill. Samuel Bagley, homestead the present place of Richard Cahill. Abner Cole, homestead probably the present place of Cyrus Miller, half a mile east of llaydenville.
Nehemiah Cleveland, homestead on Petticoat Hill next above the Washburn Hill; sons, Roswell, Nehemiah, Amasa, Uriah. Edward Curtis, homestead on the hill, a little below the old meeting-house. Josiah Dwight, place identified else- where. Samuel Day, homestead two and a half miles north- west of Haydenville. William Fenton, homestead on "the Hill," and moved to Goshen in early times. Samuel French, north part of the town. Nathan Frost, homestead the pres- ent Bartlett place, on Meeting-Ilouse Hill ; John Frost kept a tavern there.
Samuel Fairfield, the second pioneer, known as Capt. Sam- uel, and very prominent in all early public affairs, homestead the present Delevan place; children by first marriage : Ira N., settled on the present place of Royal C. Fairfield ; Mrs. Elias Root and Mrs. Simeon Parsons; by second marriage : Martha and Phebe, who died unmarried, and Samuel, the youngest, who married Elizabeth Miller (the " Aunt Betsey" of the present time).
Andrew Gates, homestead a mile above Haydenville. Wm. Guilford, homestead on Petticoat Hill; one son, John, went west ; Ebenezer remained in Williamsburg. Josiah Hadlock, homestead north part of the town. Amasa Frost was a man of considerable prominence and lived on Meeting-House Hill.
Perez Graves, homestead on the mountain, a little south of Unquomonk Ridge, known afterward as the "Guilford farm ;"' children : Dexter, Williamsburg ; Israel, Northampton ; Perez, Jr., Chesterfield ; Eli, Easthampton ; Lyman, Williamsburg; Elijah, Southampton ; Eunice, Mrs. Melzar Warner, Wil- liamsburg ; Anna, Mrs. Zenas Wright, Northampton ; Susan, Mrs. Herman Smith, Northampton.
Samuel Graves, homestead at the foot of the mountain, below Unquomonk Ridge; children : Samuel, settled west; Joseph also; Martha, died young ; Sally, became Mrs. Huh- bard, of Sunderland.
Elnathan Graves, homestead at the foot of the mountain, below Unquomonk Ridge ; children : Chester, died in infancy ; Elnathan, settled on the old homestead ; Fidelia (Mrs. Henry Lord), Williamsburg; Lydia ( Mrs. Joel Hayden), Williams- burg ; Emily ( Mrs. Samuel Williston), Easthampton; Minerva (Mrs. Eleazer Coleman), Easthampton ; Mary Ann (Mrs. Eli Graves), Easthampton.
Elisha Graves, homestead at the foot of the mountain, below Unquomonk Ridge; children : Josiah, Edward, and Elisha, who settled in this or neighboring towns, and two daughters, Abigail and Polly.
Thomas Howe was here very early ; homestead the present place of Wm. Leonard. Prescott Williams states the tradi-
tion that some supernatural powers were charged on "old Mrs. Howe" at one time,-really, the fearful imputation of witchcraft. To test the question, she was once induced to come into the present house of Prescott Williams and pass through a door over which was nailed a horse-shoe. As no witchi could do that, and as Mrs. Howe did, she was entirely cleared in public estimation. Her innocence was affirmatively established.
Sampson Hill, homestead at Williamsburg village, used to tend one of the early mills. Benjamin Hadlock, a joiner and carpenter, known as " Master Hadlock," homestead in the north part of the town.
John Miller, the first settler, elsewhere mentioned. His children were three sons-Stephen, Cyrus, John-and one daughter,-Mrs. Asahel Wright, of Northampton.
Aaron Miller was a brother of John Miller. Alexander Miller lived in the north part of the town.
John Nash, homestead the place in later years of William A. Nash. Children: Moses, died in infancy ; Judith (Mrs. David Phinney), Hatfield; Moses (2d), John, Samuel, Thomas, all settled in Williamsburg; William became a minister; and Elijah settled in Conway.
Elisha Nash, homestead the place in later years of Oliver Nash. Children : Elizabeth (Mrs. Nehemiah Frost), Hins- dale; Rebecca (Mrs. Amasa Frost), Hinsdale ; Hannah (Mrs. Seth l'aine), Ohio; Sarah (Mrs. Joseph Meekins), Williams- burg ; Martha (Mrs. James Bangs), Canada; Persia (Mrs. Reuben Saxon), Vermont ; Elisha, Williamsburg; Catharine (Mrs. Phineas Hubbard), Canada ; Submit died in infancy.
Asa Ludden, homestead on Petticoat Hill, and perhaps Ezra, Joseph, Lucy, James, Seth, and Levi in the same vi- cinity. Daniel May, probably on Nash Street. James Porter, homestead in the north part of the town. Samuel Partridge, homestead a portion of the present farm of Erastus Graves. Ebenezer Paine, homestead a part of the present farm of Pres- cott Williams.
Isaac Phinney, homestead near Chesterfield line; buildings gone. Children : David, Isaac, Nathan, Zenas, Mrs. Roswell Cleveland, Mrs. Cyrus Miller, Mrs. Elisha Graves.
Eleazer Root, north of Haydenville; was a brother of Elias Root, who was a son-in-law of Samuel Fairfield. James Smith, on Walnut Hill ; a daughter was Mrs. Wm. Bodman. Ezra Strong, on Petticoat Hill. Thomas Spafford lived at Haydenville ; went West at an early day. Wm. Stephenson, on Petticoat Hill. Seth Tubbs, on Walnut Ilill. Joshua Thayer, homestead on Meeting-house ITill. Abel Thayer, on the Gere place. Amos Truesdell, north part of the town ; never married; known as Uncle Amos. William Wales. The Wales family lived near the Phinney place, on the old Chesterfield road.
Noah Washburn, homestead where Lauriston Washburn lived in later years. He had one son, Stephen. The children of Stephen were Amos, who settled in this town ; Polly (Mrs. Gross Williams) ; Sally (Mrs. Eleazer ITillman, and after the death of her husband she married Seth Johnson, of Dana) ; Ruth, the wife of Rev. Hosea Ballon, the distinguished Uni- versalist minister.
John Williams, 1773, homestead the present place of Pres- cott Williams. Children : John and Jonah, Goshen, Gross, Joseph (father of Prescott), Abner, Williamsburg; Mrs. Na- than Starks, Mrs. Stearns, and Abisha, who died young.
Mather Warren, on Mountain Street; and probably Joseph, also Thomas, Warren. Aunt Betsey Fairfield says that a daughter in one of the Warren families was the first child born in town. John Wait, on Mountain Street ; and prob- ably Elijah also. Jonathan Walcott, Jr., near the Chester- field line. Samuel Bradford was known as Dr. Bradford, and was a man of education and ability ; his descendants are still in town.
Joseph Bodman, 1775, from Hatfield, homestead the place
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HISTORY OF HAMPSHIRE COUNTY.
ever sinee owned by the Bodmans, in Williamsburg village. Ile lived to be about one hundred years of age. Children : Manoah, Williamsburg ; Martha ( Mrs. John Hillman), Wil- liamsburg ; and after Mr. Hilhnan's death, Mrs. Nathaniel Frary, Hatfield ; Samuel, who died young ; Joseph, Jr., who settled in Williamsburg; Naomi ; Luther.
Samuel Bodman, 1774, brother of Joseph, homestead where the public-school building now stands.
William Bodman, a third brother, 1770, homestead the present place of Dennis O'Brien. The present house is said to have been built in 1765. Children were William, Polly, llepzibah, Artemas, Sylvester, Alfred, Solomon, Annie, Theophilus, and Pamelia.
John Graves, homestead a mile and a half east of the meet- ing-house, on the Hatfield road. Children : Samuel Dwight, Deacon Erastus, Mrs. John Montague, Sunderland ; Mrs. David Miller, Williamsburg ; Mrs. Elam Graves, Williams- burg.
Ebenezer Hill, 1785 to 1790, from Petersham, homestead on the Conway road, two and a half miles from the village. Children : Joseph, Whately ; Sampson, on the old homestead. The latter was a Revolutionary soldier for a short time. De- scendants are still in town.
Thomas Meekins, 1761, from Hatfield, homestead the pres- ent place of Christopher Meekins. The first log house was near the present house. One son died young. Joseph and Stephen settled in Williamsburg. The latter was the father of the present Dr. Thomas Meekins.
Dr. Elijah Paine, 1772, homestead at first the old Skeff house on the hill, afterward on the farm where he spent his life, a mile north of the old church. Children : Electa (Mrs. Frost), Geneseo, N. Y. ; Elijah, Ashfield ; Seth, Brecksville, Obio; John, Pembroke, N. Y.
James Claghorn, 1772, from Martha's Vineyard, was mar- ried three times. By the first marriage he had eight children ; by the second, six ; and by the third, four. William, the oldest, settled in Jefferson Co., N. Y. Three daughters mar- ried and went to Ontario Co., N. Y. ; two to Cummington. Other children went to various parts of Ohio and New York ; one to Middlefield. Benjamin settled in Williamsburg.
Capt. Jonathan Warner, homestead on Mountain Street, was a builder, and ereeted many of the old-time meeting- houses. He was in the war of the Revolution. His commis- sions, signed by John Hancock, are preserved by his deseend- ants. He was wounded in the shoulder,-probably at Sara- toga,-and it troubled him through life. Children : Paulina, who died in infancy ; Mrs. John Wells, Matthew, Mrs. Elisha Nash Conway, Mrs. Thomas Nash, Ebenezer, Silas, Jona- than, Job, Melzar, Mrs. Joseph Warner, Mrs. Elisha Graves.
The names of Joshua Warner, Joel Warner, Paul Warner, and Downing Warner, Jr., also appear on the roll of 1772.
Obadiah Warner, homestead on Mountain Street, was a noted dealer in horses. One son went South and attained high distinction in public life.
Caleb Johnson, 1789, from Willington, Conn., homestead on Walnut Hill; buildings gone; were on the present farm of William A. Nash. Children : Sally ( Mrs. Zephaniah Alden, and after Mr. Alden's death she married Bela Burnett) ; Wil- liam, Isaac, who died in infancy ; Benjatuin (father of B. S. and C. B. Johnson, the latter of Easthampton); Caleb, Polly, who died unmarried ; Isaac.
Rufus IIyde, 1774, from Norwich, Conn. ; a blacksmith ; he worked near the place in later years of Eleazer Hyde. About 1795 he opened a shop with a trip-hammer at what is now Searsville. Children : Eleazer, Rufus, Stephen, Mary, Josiah.
Benjamin Pomeroy, 1780, from Northampton, homestead the place in later years of Deacon William Pomeroy, in the south part of the town. Children : Samuel, Montreal ; Lydia (Mrs. Elnathan Graves, and the originator of the sewed- button business) ; Selah, Josiah, Esther (Mrs. Gains Searle),
Southampton ; Lucy (Mrs. Phineas Graves), Hatfield; Wil- liam, Polly (Mrs. Moses Montague), Sunderland.
The names of Seth Pomeroy and Josiah are upon the assessment-roll of 1772.
Ichabod Hemenway, 1770, from Framingham, homestead the place in later years of James and Obed Hemenway. Children : Elizabeth, Lucretia, Lovina, Asa, Elijah, Aaron, and James.
Deacon Joseph Carey, from Mansfield, Conn., about 1755, homestead the place in later years of John C. Williams, There were, in 1800, nine families living directly north of Deacon Carey's. All disappeared. Deacon Carey's widow lived to be ninety-four years old .* John Starks was a son-in- law of Deacon Carey. A son of Starks lived to he eighty-two.
Jesse Wilde, homestead on the Hill, near the new cemetery. It is related of his wife that she carried a half-bushel of corn to Hatfield mill on her back, and brought baek the meal in the same way.
Elisha Allis is said to have built the first house on the Ifill, the one owned in later years by Leonard Strong. Simeon White, homestead near the Whately line; went to Jefferson Co., N. Y., at an early day. Asa White, on the Hill. Chil- dren : Asa, Jr., settled in New York ; Mrs. Phineas Hubbard, Stanstead, Conn.
The following names are also found on the roll of 1772, but their locations are not easily determined at the present time : George Andrews, Benjamin Blanchard, Samuel Barber, Asa Brown, Moses Carley, Richard Church, Caleb Conant, Anson Cheeseman, Gaius Crafts, William Dunton, George Dunn, Thomas Fenton, Thomas Flow, Thomas Fance, Thomas Freneh, Samuel Hontanton, Lucy Hubbard, Abijah Hunt, Seth Hastings, Daniel Ilollis, Joseph Janes, James Janes, Russell Kellogg, Smith Kennett, Thomas Lothing, John Meekins, William Reed, Hezekiah Reed, Benjamin Reed, Enoch Thayer, Asa Thayer, Joseph Torrey, Asaph Wales.
REMINISCENCES OF MRS. FAIRFIELD.
She was born July 5, 1785, and is therefore several years older than the Federal Constitution. She was the daughter of Cyrns Miller, and a granddaughter of the earliest pioneer, John Miller. She was seven years old when he died. She remembers hearing the wolves howl, a sound not familiar to the ears of any other living person now in Williamsburg. She gives vivid accounts of the home industries of the old time. She learned to spin when she was five years old, stand- ing tip-toe to reach the thread when others had left the wheel for a few minutes. Then her parents had a little wheel made to fit the little girl's height, and she soon was able to spin a usual day's work. She recalls the days of tallow candles made with tow wicks, the latter spun at home; the whole a home- made affair, as was nearly everything else of olden time. She remembers going up in childhood to the Williams' store, that stood in the present burnt district of Williamsburg. She says, " I first went to school at Samuel Fairfield's house ; once, cross- ing the river with my older sisters (they were ahead of me), on the last inclined plank I slipped, fell in, and was drowned, -fact. They brought me to, I suppose, somehow. Then I fell out of a little chair into the fire and nearly burned to death. I have been through fire and flood, but somehow I have outlived a good many others. I am contented and happy, have everything I need for my comfort, and am thank- ful for that while so many are ' failing up.'" She said the catechism in her childhood to Rev. Joseph Strong. One of her early teachers at the little school was Patty Russell, of Northampton.
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