USA > Massachusetts > History of the Connecticut Valley in Massachusetts, with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Vol. I > Part 77
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The village contains the town clerk's office, eight churches, two printing-offices, three hotels, one national and one savings bank, and a post-office, with a branch at East Amherst. The place has a small fire department and a gas-works, two hat- manufactories, and two establishments which produce gold pens. There are thirty resident ministers.
Latitude at the college observatory, 42º 22' 17" ; longitude, 72° 34' 3". Elevation above sea-level, 267 feet.
NORTHI AMHERST
is a considerable hamlet in the northern portion of the town, whose interests are mainly agricultural. It has a post-office and one church edilice. Easterly, about one mile distant, is a settlement called " North Amherst City," where is situated
the depot, on the line of the New London Northern Railway. The city contains also a branch of the North Amherst post- office and one church.
On Mill River, about three miles from North Amherst, are two mills where artificial leather, or " leather board," is made, and one mill which turns out coarse wrapping-paper. It is said that a man named Williams had a mill on this stream in 1782.
SOUTH AMHERST,
another small place in the southeastern part of the town and south of Fort River, is chiefly sustained by its agricultural in- terests. It has one establishment for the manufacture of chil- dren's carriages, a post-office, and one church. This village, like the preceding, is situated on the line of the New London Northern Railway. The post-office was established here in 1838. The postmasters have been Hiram 11. Allen, 1838 to 1844; Waitstill Dickinson, 1844 to 1850; Charles F. Hay- ward, 1850 to 1857; Daniel Paine, 1857 to 1859 ; Sylvanus M. Wright, 1859 to 1863 ; Thomas Reed, 1863 to 1866; Waitstill Dickinson, 1866, the present incumbent.
PICTURE OF AMHERST IN 1800.
The two principal streets, lying with the cardinal points, and intersecting at the centre of the village, were originally Jaid forty rods wide, forming a spacious common before the dwellings fronting upon them. They were afterward nar- rowed, and the lawn in front of the dwellings thus extended. The Strong house, on Amity, and the Dr. Rufus Cowles house, on Pleasant Street, illustrate the change which has taken place. Says Prof. Tyler :+
" At the commencement of the present century, Judge Strong owned all the land at and near the northwest and northeast corners of the two main streets, as far north as the Dr. Cowles house and the Dr. Coleman house, which then stood near the cemetery, and as far east as the Dr. Cutler house, which then stood on the brow of Sunset Ilill, now Mrs. Jones'. Gen. Zebina Montague owned the southeast corner, and Dr. (David) Parsons the whole southwest angle, except the corner, which was occupied then, as it has been ever since, by the hotel. In 1815, when the college began to be talked of, there were still not more than twenty-five houses in the entire village. Three of these were gambrel-roofed houses,- the then aristocratic style,-viz., those of Judge Strong and Dr. Parsons, and the hotel, the last, however, only one story, and then kept by Elijah Boltwood. Of these the Judge Strong house is the only remaining specimen. Between the hotel and the Parsons house there was no building, except a school- house, near the site of the present tin-shop, which was used sometimes for a district school, and sometimes for a select school. There was no sidewalk, and the road (for a street it could hardly be called, although it was the main road leading to the 'meeting-house') was often so muddy as to be impass- able. Prof. Snell remembers being obliged more than once, by reason of the mud, to betake himself to the Virginia fence that run its zigzags alongside this road. The common was partly swamp and partly pasture ground, grown up to white birch, on which cach family was allowed, by annual vote of the town, to pasture a cow so many weeks every season. On the east side there was a goose-pond, skirted with alders, and alive and vocal with large flocks of geese.
" The corner diagonal to the hotel, now the site of Phoenix Row, was then occupied by the house and store of H. Wright Strong. Till about this time this was the only store in town, and there was no such thing as a drug-store or earpen- ter's or blacksmith's shop in existence. At the east end of what is now Phoenix Row was the house which was owned and occupied by Noah Webster for ten years, from 1812 till 1822. This house was destroyed by fire in 1838. The orchard
* Mr. Dwight died during the year, and Mr. Smith was elected to the vacancy in December, IN19.
t Ilist. of Amherst College, 1873.
245
HISTORY OF HAMPSHIRE COUNTY.
which Mr. Webster planted and cherished (now Foster Cook's) is still, perhaps, the best orchard in town. Sammuel Fowler Diekinson had recently erected the house now owned by his son, the first brick house in the village. The road between Mr. Webster's and Mr. Dickinson's then took a zigzag course toward the present residence of Mr. Sweetser, to avoid a marsh in which, in old times, cattle were not unfrequently mired. The causeway of Main Street now crosses the centre of that swamp, and the village church is built on its margin. When Esquire Dickinson built his brick house, he removed the wood house which he had previously occupied on the same site to Pleasant Street, where it still stands, a small, old- fashioned, two-story house, a little north of the blacksmith- shop. The old Whiting house, between Pleasant Street and North Street, now owned by Mr. Ayers, is also one of the antiquities of Amherst. And the grand old elm, which overshadows it like a protecting forest, if it were only gifted with speech like some trees of the mythical ages, could tell tales older and more impressive than all the history that has been gathered from the oldest inhabitants. There is no finer specimen of ' the American tree,'-' the tree of Liberty'-in the valley of the Connecticut, and of course none anywhere else in the country or the world.
" There are two houses on the east side of the common which existed at the time of which we are speaking, and still remain quite unchanged,-the Warner house and the Merrill house. And we must not forget to mention an institution, quite char- acteristie of the good old times, which onee stood on the back side of the Merrill lot, but which has passed from the knowl- edge of the present generation, though some traces of it have been brought to light in recent excavations. We refer to a distillery-the first, but by no means the last, in this region- which used up some 3000 barrels of eider every year, turning it into cider-brandy, and used up as effectually some of the old settlers. Their children, who are still on the stage, re- count some first lessons learned there, which, with the help of later lessons of a counter-tendency, have made them ever since the sturdy friends of temperance.
"In the construction of Prof. Seclye's fish-pond lately, the aqueduct of logs which brought water into the distillery was discovered, and found to be still, after three-quarters of a century, in a state of perfeet preservation. College Street now runs along near the brow of this distillery ravine, which used to be covered with barrels of cider and cider-brandy. Faet significant not only of ebange but of improvement ! The world does move; and it moves to the right direction, -- toward temperance, intelligence, virtue, and piety."
INDUSTRIES.
Gold Pens .- It is now-1879-nearly thirty years since Ira C. Haskins commenced the manufacture of gold pens, and twenty-five years, or more, since he transferred the business to the vicinity of Amherst. For a considerable time his brother, Joseph A., as the senior partner, was associated with him, " Haskins Brothers" being the title of the firm. Joseph, because of ill health, about 1869 retired from the business to a farm in Shutesbury,-the town in which their earlier business was conducted.
Two years before his retirement, however, an aet was se- enred incorporating the two brothers and Henry A. Marsh, of Amherst, as the " Haskins Gold T'en Manufacturing Com- pany," and authorizing a property in real estate to the amount of $20,000, the capital being $100,000. There has been, as yet, no regular organization under the act.
The produets of the present establishment-now conducted by Ira C. Haskins-are gold pens, in nearly 50 different pat- terns, varying in size, style, and number, some of which, as specialties, bear the peculiar names, reservoir, double reser- voir, erow-quill, and stub nib.
Previous to the location at Shutesbury, Mr. Haskins had an
office in New York City, and, having purchased the stock of Wm. Ball & Co., English manufacturers of steel pens, at Newark, N. J., engaged for a time in the sale of pens of both steel and gold.
POST-OFFICES.
Amherst .- The first postmaster in the town of Amherst was Daniel Kellogg, who was appointed about the period of the Revolution, and kept the post-office in East Street. His suc- cessors have been J. White, 1. White, Jr., II. Wright Strong, Samuel C. Carter,* Seth Nims, L. M. Boltwood, J. L. Skinner, John Jamieson.
North Amherst .- A post-office was established at North Amherst nearly or quite forty years ago, upon the application of Samuel Davis and others. Mr. Davis was the first ap- pointee, and served about years, when William Il. Robinson succeeded him. Mr. Cutler was restored to the office by Pres- ident Buchanan, and held it until 1869, when he resigned. C. H. Hobart then served three months and, in turn, resigned. F. P. Ainsworth, the present incumbent, then entered upon his duties in that office.
THE PRESS.
The first paper of any kind issued in Amherst was The Chemist and Meteorological Journal, by Carter & Adams ; ed- ited by John B. Cotting. The first number appeared on the Ist of July, 1826. On December Ist, of the same year, Messrs. Carter & Adams commenced the New England Enquirer. It was edited successively by Hon. Osmyn Baker and Rev. Sam- uel Worcester. In 1839 the Amherst Gazette appeared. It was edited and published by James B. Yerrington. The year 1844 witnessed the advent of a journal of more permanent character, the Hampshire and Franklin Express, edited by Samuel C. Nash. In 1848 it passed into the possession of llomer A. Cook. J. R. Trumbull, now of the Hampshire Gazette, became its publisher and editor in 1849. Messrs. Adams Bros. received it again in 1853, having Leander Wetherell as editor. Subsequently Mr. William Faxon be- came its editor and publisher. He turned it over to J. H. Brewster, who took as partner the Rev. Pliny Il. White. After some time Mr. Brewster repurchased Mr. White's interest, and took into partnership Rev. J. H. M. Leland. Afterward Mr. Brewster left, and for a short time Mr. Le- land had sole charge. Mr. H. A. Marsh purchased it in 1858, changing the name in the year 1865 from Hampshire and Franklin Express, which it had borne since 1844, to Hamp- shire Erpress. In the fall of 1866 he disposed of it to Capt. J. L. Skinner, who published and edited it till February, 1868, when he associated with himself as partner Mr. II. M. McCloud. In May, 1868, the name of the paper was changed to Amherst Record, and Mr. MeCloud had Mr. Charles L. Storrs as an associate for a couple of years. In 1871, Mr. MeCloud enlarged the paper to eight pages, and published till June, 1877, when he took as partner Mr. J. E. Williams. The paper is still published by MeCloud & Williams.
The Amherst Transcript was established Sept. 18, 1877, by the brothers Robert A. and Charles II. Marsh, the former being the publisher, the latter editor. Robert A., in 1875, opened a job-office in a drug-store in the First National Bank building, and removed early in the next year to the American House block, where he continued until August, 1877, when he moved the office to its present quarters in " Palmer Block," and took a contract to publish the Amherst Student, a fortnightly col- lege paper of sixteen pages, which is still regularly issued. The Transcript is independent in politics, treats of local affairs, and has a circulation of about 800 copies, chiefly within the counties of Hampshire and Hampden. The paper was en- larged Jan. 7, 1879.
* Served at two periods, in all nine years,-first under Jno. Tyler, last under Z. Taylor.
246
HISTORY OF THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY.
BANKS.
THE FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF AMHERST
was organized in January, 1864, with a capital of $51,000. The first board of directors was constituted as follows : Leon- ard M. Hills, Jared T. Westcott, Enos D. Williams, James G. Vose, Ansel C. Marshall, Seth J. Bennett, Calvin Bridgman. The first president was Leonard M. Hills; the first cashier, William P. Smith.
During the presidency of Mr. Hills the capital was twice in- creased,-in November, 1864, to $100,000, and in May, 1865, to $150,000, where it remains.
In March, 1872, Calvin Bridgman was chosen president, Mr. Ilills having resigned, and held the position until Jan- uary, 1874, when he was succeeded by the present incumbent, Leonard D. Hills. In October, 1865, Reuben J. D. Westcott was chosen cashier in place of Mr. Smith, resigned.
Present Directors .- Leonard D. Hills, Jared T. Westcott, Ansel C. Marshall, Calvin Bridgman, Enos F. Cook, William A. Dickinson, William S. Tyler.
Officers .- Leonard D. Hills, President ; Reuben J. D. West- cott, Cashier ; William N. Scott, Teller ; Edgar T. Scott, Book-keeper.
Capital, $150,000. Surplus, $50,000.
THE AMHERST SAVINGS-BANK
was incorporated April 5, 1864, and went into operation in January, 1865. The first board of trustees was composed of C. W. Lessey, Charles Adams, E. F. Cook, H. Holland, Cal- vin Bridgman, James Hastings, D. W. Palmer, W. A. Dick- inson, George Cutler, A. R. Cushman, David Rice, Horace Ward, N. Austin Smith.
The same persons constitute the present board, with the ex- ception of B. F. Kendrick, whose name appears in place of C. W. Lessey. The deposits Jan. 1, 1879, were 8498,060 ; sur- plus, $17,625.98 ; guarantee fund, $2683. Loans, $501,623.10; cash, $16,746.71.
Present Officers .- E. F. Cook, President ; D. W. Palmer, Vice-President ; George Cutler, Secretary ; Samuel C. Carter, Treasurer.
Board of Investment .- James Hastings, H. Ward, Amherst ; N. A. Smith, Sunderland ; C. Bridgman, Belchertown. The annual meeting is the first Wednesday in January.
FIRE DEPARTMENT.
The fire department of Amherst, as a lawfully-constituted organization, is of recent origin, dating from March 3, 1874. Previous to this time the town had for several years appointed fire-wardens, and made a small annual appropriation for fire purposes. In the year named apparatus was provided, and a board of twelve engineers was appointed by the selectmen. The village has no system of water-works, and its situation is unfavorable for obtaining a supply of water from any of the streams of the town that would not involve large expenditure of money. Twelve cisterns have therefore been provided by the town,-all of which are near the centre of the village, five being on the " common,"-whose united capacity is 68,000 gallons. One holds 13,000, the others each 5000. These are supplied from roofs and springs. Edward A. Thomas was chosen as the first chief-engineer, and served until March, 1878, when the present chief, Henry Holland, succeeded to the position.
The force of the department consists of two companies,- Cataract Engine Company, with a hand-engine, and Lafay- ette Ilook-and-Ladder Company, 100 buckets, one Babcock extinguisher, and 850 feet of good hose.
Losses by Fire in AAmherst .- 1874, 819; 1875, $15; 1876, $41,472; 1877, $3785; 1878, 818,582.90 ; January, 1879, 83000.
Present Department Officers .- Henry Holland, Chief-Engi- neer ; Lewis J. Spear, First Assistant ; Rufus T. Dickinson, Second Assistant ; M. E. Cushman, Clerk ; John A. Pierce,
Watson W. Cowles, L. H. Pomeroy, William E. Stebbins, E. Iliteheock, Henry E. Johnson, Horace D. Dana, Assist- ants.
Company Officers .- " Cataract Engine Company," Timothy W. Sloan, Foreman; Henry E. Wheeler, First Assistant ; George J. Gallond, Second Assistant ; Henry E. Paige, Clerk and Treasurer ; Timothy W. Sloan, James W. T. Davis, George B. Gallond, Trustees ; Frank Martin, Steward. " Lafayette Hook-and-Ladder Company," M. N. Spear, Foreman ; C. M . Osgood, Assistant ; J. A. Hall, Clerk and Treasurer ; David S. Warner, Commissary.
HOTELS.
The first keepers of inns in the east precinct, now Amherst, were Ebenezer, Ephraim, and Martin Kellogg ; the first, from 1734 to 1737 and 1752 to 1757; the second, 1744 to 1756; and the last named, from 1771 to 1773. "Ephraim had mills on Mill River. Moses Smith kept a tavern on the Boston road from 1758 to 1766, Alexander Smith on West Street, south of the meeting-house, from 1758 to 1763, and Moses Warner, north of the meeting-house, from 1757 to 1771. Josiah Chauncey was a retailer of spirits many years from 1759, and Elisha Ingram from 1766, and others one or two years. Chauncey and Ingram sold other goods. The second Solo- mon Boltwood and his son Ebenezer, and Jacob MeDaniel, traded. From 1780 to 1793, 3, 4, or 5 tavern-keepers were yearly licensed in Amherst, and 4, 5, or 6 retailers of liquors. In 1783 there were 5 taverners and 8 rum-sellers."*
Amherst House .- In 1800 there was a hotel on the ground now occupied by the " Amherst House," described as a low one-story building, with a gambrel roof. This was then kept by Elijah Boltwood. The succeeding proprietors have been - Rockwood, A. P. Ilowe, Frank Kingman, and George Parker. N. S. Beebee, who took the property in August, 1875, still presides worthily over the spot which in the preced- ing century was dedicated to good cheer and hospitality. The house was rebuilt in 1821.
Union House .- This house was erected as a dwelling in 1853, for the use of a conductor of the Amherst and Belchertown Railroad,-Nathan Patten. It was enlarged and made a pub- lic-house by S. W. Whitney, who was succeeded by. T. T. Sisson, the present proprietor, about the year 1867-68.
ALMSIIOUSE.
What now constitutes the "poor-farm" of the town of Amherst was purchased in 1837, and contains about 150 acres. The cost of the farm and the buildings since erected thereon amounts to nearly 87000, of which sum all but $1000 was paid by the " United States Surplus Revenue Fund." Expended for the relief of the poor for year ending March 1, 1878, $2254.47.
There was distributed in the town during the year ending March 1, 1878, under the provisions of the will of the late Oliver Smith, of Hatfield, as follows :
To 140 widows, 850 each $7,000
To 80 indigent young women, $50 each 4,000
$11,000
Under other provisions of that will there are now 127 indi- gent boys and 53 girls serving terms of indenture.
The will of the late Whiting Street, of Northampton, gives the town of Amherst $6000, as a permanent fund whose income shall be used " for the relief and comfort of the worthy poor . . . who shall not be in the almshouse nor be town nor city paupers."
RAILROAD.
The New London, Willimantic and Palmer Railroad was opened in 1850, and an extension, under the name of the " Amherst and Belchertown Railroad," in 1853. This road, since farther extended, traverses the town, near its geograph-
* Judd, p. 422.
247
HISTORY OF HAMPSHIRE COUNTY.
ical centre, in a northerly and southerly direction, touching each of the three villages, and is at present known as the New London Northern Railway. It is operated under lease by the Vermont Central Railroad Company.
SOCIETIES.
PACIFIC LODGE OF FREE AND ACCEPTED MASONS
was chartered June 8, 1801, with the following members : Phineas Hubbard, Roswell Field, Edward Ruggles, Samuel Church, Joseph Willard, Caleb Hubbard, Friend Smith, Rufus Field, David Stockbridge, Cornelius Wells, John Prentiss, William Mather, and Elijah Allis. The charter was executed by John Boyle, S. G. W., and Isaac Hurd, J. G. W., and at- tested by John Proctor, Grand Sec., and authorized meetings " within the town of Sunderland." Dec. 13, 1802, permission was granted for the removal of the lodge to the town of Am- herst, and again, June 8, 1807, to the town of Leverett. A final change was authorized Sept. 8th, of the latter year, when the lodge was transferred to Amherst again.
While in Sunderland meetings were held at the hotel of Maj. Caleb Hubbard, at Plum-Trees. Ilere, it seems, the first officers were chosen, as follows: Phineas Hubbard, W. M .; Roswell Field, S. W .; Samuel Church, Jr., J. W. ; Caleb Hubbard, Treas. ; David D. Grey, Sec. ; Rufus Field, S. D. ; Beal Crocker, J. D. ; Joseph Watson, S. S. ; Friend Smith, J. S. ; Ezra Winslow, Tyler. When first removed to Am- herst, the lodge met at the house of Capt. Calvin Merrill, where a memorandum made upon a return to the Grand Lodge shows that " the lodge was constituted and officers in- stalled in public Sept. 5, 1804, by Solomon Vose, D. D. G. M. ; sermon by R. W. Bro. Pond." Another return in the follow- ing year discloses that the lodge then embraced three physi- cians, two gentlemen of public education, two merchants, four innkeepers, three majors, four captains, four lieutenants, two selectmen, seven joiners, two hatters, two saddlers, one goldsmith, two shoemakers, one clothier, one cooper, one paper-maker, twenty farmers, one coroner. During the few months' stay in Leverett, the meetings were convened at the hotel of Lucius Field, and after the last removal to Amherst, " at the hotels of John Baggs, in East Street, Rufus Kellogg, at the ' City,' and last at Boltwood's Hotel, now the Amherst House."
Because of the Morgan excitement, the lodge suspended and returned its charter, and was not revived until 1860, when a dispensation was issued under which the lodge worked one year. After the long interval of thirty-three years, only a few of the old members remained, Riley Johnson and Dr. Seth Fish, alone of these, joining in the appeal for a dispensa- tion. Nearly all the furniture of the old lodge had disap- peared.
" On the 24th of September, 1861, Pacifie Lodge was again constituted, its hall was dedicated, and its officers installed." The installation ceremonies were performed in the Baptist church.
The regular communications of this lodge are held at Ma- sonie llall, on each Monday evening next preceding the full moon in each month. Annual elections in November.
Inclusive of the year 1875, the lodge has received over 350 members within its fold.
Present officers : O. F. Morse, W. M. ; C. W. Adams, S. W .; Edward A. Thomas, J. W. ; Henry Holland, Treas. ; E. J. Wheaton, Sec. ; R. D. C. Ingram, S. D. ; F. F. Adams, J. D. ; J. L. Lovell, Chaplain ; T. W. Sloan, Marshal; J. II. War- ner, S. S .; E. W. Carpenter, J. S. ; Loren L. Ball, J. S. ; Il. E. Wheeler, Organist ; Daniel Currier, Tyler; Lecturer, D. II. Bartlett ; Auditing Com., O. G. Couch, Levi Stockbridge, E. D. Bangs ; Visiting Com., George B. Gallond, Henry Holland, George Field, D. A. Horton, Noah Dickinson.
WELLS LODGE, No. 140, was organized about the year 1850, and existed about ten years, when it was discontinued.
E. M. STANTON POST, 36, G. A. R.,
Department of Massachusetts, was formed in the parlors of the Amherst House, Dec. 9, 1864, the charter bearing date Dec. 11, two days later. The following were the charter members : A. W. Barrows, W. M. Bassett, Edmund Bolt- wood, D. B. N. Fish, B. R. Franklin, T. W. Sloan, T. W. Lavake, J. L. Skinner, L. J. Winslow, A. H. Daniels.
Until April 1, 1869, the meetings of the post were held in the third story of the Amherst House, when a transfer was made to rooms in " Phoenix Row," which had been remodeled for the purpose, at a cost of about $200. These rooms were leased for five years. Ilere the post remained until April 1, 1875, having meantime suffered slightly from fire. Again, having hired rooms with Amherst Grange, in " Union Block," they suffered loss by the fire which destroyed the building, March 13, 1876. The next lodge was with " Amherst Grange," in rooms prepared for their use in the second story of the car- penter-shopof Harvey White, where, pursued again by the fire- fiend, the post lost all their furniture and even their charter, Jan. 3, 1879. Their last resort is the police court-room, where they hope to arrest the approach of the destroyer.
The following have served as Commanders: T. W. Sloan, Dec. 9, 1861, to Jan .. 6, 1868, and for the year 1877; L. J. Winslow, six months; C. L. Storrs, six months ; E. Bolt- wood and J. A. Baker, each one year ; J. L. Skinner, 1871, and 1873 to 1876; 1I. C. Comins, 1872 and 1878; Adjutants, J. L. Skinner, three years; J. J. Young, five years. Since the organization, D. B. N. Fish has served as Post Surgeon, except for the year 1868-69, when A. W. Barrows held the office ; B. R. Franklin has been Quartermaster for eight years, from Jan. 1, 1871, to Jan. 1, 1879.
Whole number on the muster-roll, 95; present members, 30; eight have died within eleven years.
Roster of Officers for 1879 .- B. R. Franklin, P. C .; L. W. West, S. V. C .; H. C. Russell, J. V. C; Edgar G. Thayer, Adj. ; J. J. Young, Q .- M .; George Newell, O. D .; D. B. N. Fish, Surgeon ; J. D. Miller, O. G. ; L. D. Smith, S. M. ; P. D. Hubbard, Q-M .- S. ; W. B. Kimball, Delegate to Depart- ment Convention ; L. W. West, Alternate.
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